village is unparalleled. Above all, don’t miss out on a visit to the town’s contemporary church, built in 1960, with its remarkable concrete, lyre-shaped bell. The interior is truly magnificent. Daylight fil-ters in from one side through a multitude of small, stained-glass windows, each depicting a verse of the Bible and two huge windows that represent the Virgin and the martyrdom of Saint Sebastian. Here, you are on the Cap Gris-Nez, where the sea rules. Swimming is out of the question, just sit on a rock and let yourself be lulled by the pull of the waves and watch as the cargo ships and ferries dance the two-step with each other in the distance. The fishing villages of Audresselles and Amble-teuse have lost none of their authentic charm. The beaches have retained their wild natural beauty and are unmarred by construction. Shrimp fisher-men and whelk collectors are in seventh heaven, as are those beach-goers who come in search of tranquillity. The fishermen in Audresselles still take their impressive flobarts down to the water’s edge, picking their way carefully through the sun-worshippers. To the south of Ambleteuse, the dunes of the river Slack are perfect for hiking. You will follow sandy

paths into the depths of an unexpected backdrop provided by a plantation of twisted pine trees which, on a hot day, conspire with the brilliant blue sky to transport you just for a moment to the south of France...

A remarkable architectural ensemble of villas dating back to the Belle Epoque gives Wimereux its distinguished air. Its crowning glory is undoub-tedly the Digue, a 2km seafront promenade, over-looking a beach of fine sand and rocks, where cute little blue and white beach huts line up in the summer months. Here, you can wander around in absolute peace, totally untroubled by traffic. Have a drink or a meal on the terrace of one of the sea-front café-restaurants. Above all, though, make the most of the spectacular sunset, while the children play at the edge of a rocky outcrop where the tail end of the sea lingers as the tide recedes into the distance. For sports enthusiasts, board sports are a big thing here. Fans of wind-surfing or stand-up paddle boarding, get your wetsuits on as the Channel is pretty cold at any time of year.

Terre des 2 Caps Tourist Office:www.terredes2capstourisme.frWimereux Tourist Office:www.wimereux-tourisme.fr

Boulogne-sur-Mer,two worlds entwinedIts districts are what give a town its real charm. This port town is split into two separate worlds which have always lived side-by-side. The unde-niable appeal of the fortified upper-town oozes from its old stones and the stories they tell. Here, you will come across relics from Roman, medie-val and Napoleonic times, and even an Egyptian mummy...The four iconic buildings of the lower-town, for its part, represent the modern side of a city which underwent partial reconstruction in the aftermath of the Second World War. With a determined focus on its activities as a fishing harbour and yachting marina, the Capécure district is the capital of com-mercial fishing, and this alone is worth the trip. Without a shadow of doubt, the jewel in the crown of the lower-town is Nausicaa, the National Sea Experience Centre, one of Europe’s largest aqua-riums.

◗◗ FOR YOU TO EXPLORE in the fortified town:• The Belfry and the Town Hall• Notre-Dame Basilica: Boulogne Cathedral. The sheer size of the church and its majestic dome, which makes it visible from a great distance, will take you by surprise.

• The Château Comtal, accommodating the town’s museum, and its medieval ramparts, fortified by Vauban in the 17th century.

◗◗ FOR YOU TO EXPLORE in the lower-town:• The town centre and its shops.• The waterside facilities on the Liane river.• The fishing harbour and yachting marina and the fishmongers’ stalls on the boulevard Gambetta.• Capécure’s “Criée” auction, where offshore fish are sold.• The Boulogne Tourist Office gives Guided Tours at 4:30am every Wednesday and Saturday morning between 12 July and 27 August• The Maison de la Beurière and the rue du Machi-coulis.• Nausicaa: the National Sea Experience Centre.Boulogne-sur-Mer Tourist Office:www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com

From Le Portelto Etaples-sur-Mer,fishing is everywhereSheltered by Boulogne harbour, the key feature of Portel beach is its 1.5km stretch of fine, scru-pulously clean sand. With its friendly atmosphere this popular and lovely seaside resort offers eve-rything you need for a great family holiday. Two forts have survived the centuries and can

Lively coastal towns

W A N D E R I N G S B Y T E N D A N C E S C ô T E D ’ O P A L ECôted’Opale

©A

DRT

62

Port of Etaples

Port of Boulogne-sur-Mer

Boulogne-sur-Mer Notre-Dame Basilica

©ER

IC D

ESA

UN

OIS

©ER

IC D

ESA

UN

OIS

6

Tour the back roads and forgottenroads with “les Belles Echappées” “Les Belles Échappées” is a tour organiser which uses antiquated modes of transport such as the iconic and much loved 2 CV (plus Mehari, Volkswagen Kombi van, Solex). They invite you to travel off the beaten track to find simple pleasures which stir your memories and emotions. The authentic 2CVs take to the road once more for your pleasure and these old cars are all fully ser-viced before each trip. Take the wheel after an initial briefing (driving and safety advice) and explore the gorgeous countryside with the provided driving kit (map, plan) to guide you along the route.

2 tours to discover(2CV discovery road trip - half a day)

Tour through the Audomarois areaThe Audomarois area sprawls at the foot of the Artois area and reaches to-wards inner Flanders and the coastal plain. With floating gardens (hortillon-nages), lakes and forests, watermills and windmills, gothic churches, rural dwellings and so on, the Audomarois was granted regional park status for the beauty of its natural and architectural heritage. This road trip will take you on a tour to discover the work of local people and traditions that are still very much alive.

7 Valleys and the estuariesA road trip to discover an area of genuine countryside with hills, woods and valleys, where streams with clear waters that are full of fish flow. You will tra-vel through the Seven Valleys, through Hesdin in the centre and the Montreuil area with its pretty valleys.Take a 2-day option and explore further aspects that will delight you as the route travels into the Somme estuary, returning through the Authie estuary.Les Belles Échappées Chemin des murs, Ferme de l’Abbaye - 62500 Clair-marais, France.Tel: +00 (0)3.21.98.11.72 - Mobile +33(0)6.08.85.19.32(www.les-belles-echappees.com)Prices: half a day = €90, full day = €159, 2 days/week-end = €259

Nordic walkingThis is such a simple idea that more and more people are taking it up. It in-volves enhancing your natural walking rhythm by propelling your body using two poles so that you can go faster and further.10 minutes from Calais, in the heart of the Côte d’Opale, let yourself be temp-ted by an introduction to Nordic Walking on Mondays in the Guînes forest.3 Pays Tourist Information Office+33 (0)3 21 35 73 73 - www.tourisme-3pays.com

Climbing trees, a family activity!If you are a thrill-seeker, then climbing high above the ground at tree-top level is one activity that will certainly excite you. Safe trails are designed for all ages. Sessions are led by experts who teach you the basic techniques to climb effectively. Opalaventure, a park in Sainte-Cécile, offers a child-friendly workshop. Moving around independently at a height of three metres under the guidance of an instructor, children cross rope bridges and a monkey bridge, crawl through barrels and go down a zip line…fun is guaranteed!www.opalaventure.com

Discover Geocaching® or... Geomuche A clever combination of a treasure hunt and trail, Geocaching® is a hi-tech version of a treasure hunt on foot where you use a portable GPS and have to decipher a few clues. It is an ideal open air leisure activity which will stretch your legs and your grey matter. Enjoy the beauty of the landscape of the Ter-nois area where you can track down a whole series of treasures which have been renamed “muches” as a tribute to the local Ch’tis dialect (patois)!All the necessary information can be found on: www.geomuche.com

Discovering riding centres (fermes équestres)As the autumn chill sets in, why not keep warm with a spot of horse riding? New instruction techniques mean that you can go trekking, outside of the riding school, whether you are a beginner or an experienced rider. Riding centres offer accompanied treks and hacks. A great way to help you to get to know the environment as well as the horses as you help to feed and take care of them.Ferme équestre de la Haute Maison - 62730 Marck - Christian LefebvreLa ferme de mon enfance - 62170 Wailly Beaucamp - Sophie Ranson

W A N d E R I N G S B Y T E N d A N C E S C ô T E d ’ O P A L EEscapeto the country

Les Belles Echappées Géomuche

©le

s be

lles

ec

ha

ppée

s

©a

DRT

62

14

Coal mining dominated the hills of Artois, the region of Arras, Lens and Bethune for over 150 years. The industry has left a legacy in the shape of a striking industrial landscape. The pits and enormous shale heaps have fused and blended into the local countryside to harmonise with the natural scenery.The delightful architecture of the old towns of Ar-tois perfectly compliments the natural landscape. The diverse rural landscapes beyond the towns and old mines, wooded valleys with streams meandering gently through and villages that seem untouched by time, are like a breath of fresh air. The historical heritage of the countryside is outs-tanding: castles, water mills, chapels and old farms are dotted throughout the changing scenery of the natural landscapes. Artois is well worth the detour and taking time to explore.

2012 - A new chapter in Artois The opening of the Louvre-LensIn Artois, you quickly sense the vibrancy of the dy-namic towns, driven by a strong desire to lose their reputation as grim industrial places. The locals are determined to use all facets of their rich architec-tural, cultural and human heritage to transform Artois into a destination that is sought out.

The two towns of Lens and Liévin, together known as the “Communaupole de Lens-Liévin” have been awarded the “Region of Art and History” tourism label. This important accolade recognises the va-lue not just of the historic architectural heritage, but also of the landscapes, disused industrial sites, know-how and local dialects.

In 2012 this coal mining area was designated a UNESCO world heritage site and the town of Lens was chosen as the site for the regional outpost of France’s internationally renowned greatest mu-seum: Le Louvre. The drive to shape the future of the area has succeeded.The new satellite of the prestigious Paris museum

was built on the former site of Lens Colliery No. 9. The glass and polished aluminium building crea-ted by the Japanese architectural firm Sanaa is designed to blend into its setting in a large clearing bordered by trees. Its transpa-rency reflects the rhythm of the seasons and the changing light unique to the northern French skies. The Louvre-Lens does not have its own collections; it hosts temporary exhibitions on specific themes twice a year (summer/winter). A wide variety of artworks from the Louvre are shown as well as from other equally prestigious museums. The “Galerie du Temps” (Time Gallery) is the backbone of the museum and will exhibit mas-

terpieces loaned from the Louvre’s collections for five years.The Galerie du Temps is a 120-metre long space in which the artworks are exhibited in chronological order to understand the evolution of the human race through all the technical and artistic contribu-tions made by successive civilisations.Next temporary exhibition : “Animals and Pha-raohs” at the Louvre-Lens from 4 December to 9 March.

The animal kingdom in ancient EgyptA monkey embraces its baby while a donkey plays the harp. Further on, a lion roars…Whether real or represented, animals occupy a key position in ancient Egypt. Wild and domesticated animals are ubiquitous in everyday life.The next temporary exhibition at the Louvre-Lens will focus on the place and role of the animal figure in ancient Egyptian civilisation. www.louvrelens.fr

Artois fromevery perspectiveThe towns in Artois have a wide range of different architectural styles from medieval to baroque, classical to art deco, and they are truly worthy of exploration.

W A N D E R I N G S B y T E N D A N C E S C ô T E D ’ O P A L E

The two sides to Artois

Pit 9/9 bis

©M

issi

on

Ba

ssin

Min

ier

Louvre-Lens

©r

ViM

on

t

Aroundthe Louvre Lens

16

And on the other side, the GermansThe German War Cemetery at La Maison Blanche, Neuville-St-Vaast This is the largest German First World War ceme-tery in France. It contains the remains of 44,833 soldiers from 100 different German military units who died in Artois during the battles on Lorette Hill and in the hills around Vimy (1917 and spring 1918). The cemetery, which stands opposite the local farm, covers 10 hectares in the hamlet of La Maison Blanche. The entrance building displays a three-dimensional map of the battle area. The great numbers of visitors who come from around the Commonwealth leave countless poppies at this site.Route de Neuville-St-Vaast,Arras (Route Départementale 937)62580 Neuville-St-Vaast

“In Flanders fields the poppies blow between the crosses...” The poem calls to mind with simpli-city the poppies that grew in the trenches. These flowers represent the British soldiers who died on the battlefields of Flanders during the First World War. It was written by John McCrae, a lieutenant colonel in the Canadian Army Medical Corps. He

died in January 1918 and is buried in Wimereux Communal Cemetery on the Opal Coast.

The coast, the Allied Armies’ base campÉtaples Military CemeteryThis is the largest Commonwealth cemetery in France. Étaples was a wide-reaching railway hub. It had direct connections to the battlefields of the Somme and Artois. As a result, the British set up their largest military base in France here. Al-though far from the front, it had extensive hospital facilities and a training camp on site. It is estima-ted that more than a million men passed through here from March 1915 to November 1918. At any one time, the site was home to 60,000 - 80,000 sol-diers.

Interesting anecdote : the camp’s relationship with the local community was turbulent. The main reason for this was prostitution, which led to the spread of venereal disease. In Étaples, there was a specific hospital for soldiers suffering from “special” diseases. These diseases spread just as widely among civilians. Venereal disease and prostitution were not the only problems, however: there was alcohol, fighting and other examples of bad behaviour. Relations broke down completely when the British soldiers mutinied at the end of 1917 and stormed out of the camp. The people of Étaples endured a week of hell and they still talk about it to this day.

The Chinese Cemetery and Memorial at Saint-Etienne-au-Mont From 1916, the British Army started recruiting Chinese labourers to perform logistical duties in its French camps. At the end of the conflict, the men from the Chinese Labour Corps helped to clear mines from the land and bury the soldiers who died on the battlefields.

Far from the front, but at the heart of the actionThroughout the war, British High Command kept its Grand Quartier Général (GQG) in Pas-de-Calais. The British headquarters were originally set up in Saint-Omer, but GQG moved to Montreuil-sur-Mer in March 1916. It became the epicentre of an immense logistical area that stretched along both sides of the English Channel. Saint-Omer remai-ned the headquarters of the Royal Flying Corps.

Memorial to the Unknown Warrior

in Saint-Pol-sur-Ternoise In November 1920 during the Armistice celebra-tions, the British Government announced its deci-sion to create a tomb for an unknown warrior as a symbol of the sacrifice made by British soldiers who died during the war. The unknown British warrior was chosen from four bodies in Saint-Pol. A memorial stone marks the spot where he was first buried. The unknown British warrior was buried “among the kings” on 11 November in Westminster Abbey. On the same day, an un-known French soldier was buried under the Arc de Triomphe.

The Great War and the characters and poets from the English-speaking world Isaac Rosenberg (25 November 1890 – 1 April 1918)

Rosenberg was sent to the Western Front in France with his battalion in June 1916. He conti-nued to write poetry while serving in the trenches. “Break of day in the trenches”, “Returning, we hear the larks” and “Dead man’s dump” are among the poems he left us. He was killed on 1 April 1918 in Fampoux, northeast of Arras. Although he was first buried in a mass grave, his remains were identified in 1926 and he was reinterred at Bailleul Road East Cemetery, Plot V, Saint-Laurent-Blangy.

W A N D E R I N G S B y T E N D A N C E S C ô T E D ’ O P A L E

...Relive their stories.”

Lestwe forget

©re

mi v

imo

nt

©P.

BrU

net

©re

mi v

imo

nt

J McCrae, Wimereux

Wellington Quarry

Chinese Cimetery-ST Etienne au Mont

24