Pro Beauty May 2016

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May 2016 www.probeauty.co.za On the SPOT COLD as ice Lip-centric products ACNE TREATMENTS Engaging with your customers TOXIN ATTACK! Body detoxing Pucker up Showstopper Professional Beauty Durban preview At your SERVICE Frotox vs Botox

description

The leading magazine for the African Professional Beauty industry. Packed full of essential information for all those working in the industry.

Transcript of Pro Beauty May 2016

Page 1: Pro Beauty May 2016

May 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

On the spot

Coldas ice

Lip-centric products

Acne treAtments

Engaging with your customers

Toxin aTTack!Body detoxing

Pucker up

ShowstopperProfessional Beauty

Durban preview

At your service

Frotox vs Botox

Page 2: Pro Beauty May 2016

Vitamin A is an essential skin nutrient that has to be replenished every day for skin to appear healthier and more resilient. But when you combine vitamin A with other essential skin nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, that’s when you begin to see – and feel – beautiful skin through science.

REBORNBEAUTIFUL

your skin

www.environskincare.com

Page 3: Pro Beauty May 2016

Vitamin A is an essential skin nutrient that has to be replenished every day for skin to appear healthier and more resilient. But when you combine vitamin A with other essential skin nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, that’s when you begin to see – and feel – beautiful skin through science.

REBORNBEAUTIFUL

your skin

www.environskincare.com

Page 4: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.

Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com

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Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]

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Printers ABC Press 021 5343210

Thus far, 2016 has been somewhat of a

turbulent year for South Africans. The

crippling effects of the drought, coupled

with the political fall-out from the Nkandla

controversy and severe petrol price hikes,

have all impacted negatively on the economy. So the going is

tough, to say the least. In this issue we provide tips for salon and spa owners on

how to beat these challenging times and ensure that their businesses thrive.

Technology in skincare constantly advances at a rapid rate, with beauty

brands’ R&D departments always on the hunt for revolutionary new ingredients,

making it difficult for therapists to keep absolutely up to date with the latest

developments. We provide some valuable insight into ingredients that are

trending right now, including bee venom, of all things.

Joanna Sterkowicz - Editor

Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news

49 Hair news What’s hot and happening in

the hair industry

58 Product news All the latest launches

62 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP

Business12 Ask the Experts All your questions answered

15 Insider Tracking the industry with

stats

17 Are we in for a bumpy ride? Keeping your business afloat

in a recession

21 The subtle art of retailing, merchandising and selling

Tips on the psychology of selling

22 Movers & shakers in the world of ingredients

Keeping up with skincare developments

Salon Focus24 Behind ‘The Mask’ Johannesburg salon turns 45

Spa Focus29 Customer Service Tips for engagement

32 Journey to wellness The Spa at Bushmans Kloof

35 Professional Beauty Durban What’s on at the show

60 Medical Aesthetics The chill drill

Nails55 The science of nails Sound understanding

Features40 The Pizza-face syndrome Acne treatments

46 Lip service Focus on products for the lips

51 Taking the cure Body detox treatments

Welcome

32

In this issue...

24

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Introducing the newPharma Supplements Range from Environ

Life can “get under your skin” – the stress of city living, the e� ects

of the environment all have an impact on skin. The way we live shows

in our skin. So it’s not surprising that there’s a growing movement

to look after mind, body and soul, which results in an overall feeling

of well-being.

Wellness is a growing global mega-trend, fuelled by consumers who

want to live a good life, reach their full potential and look and feel

healthy for as long as possible. Consumers around the globe believe

that wellness is going to become more important in the future, and

are realising that what they put in shows.

The new Pharma Supplements Range from Environ assists in feeding

skin’s health and resilience from the inside out with a balanced

combination of vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants, helping to

strengthen skin from within and keep it looking healthier and more beautiful.

Strengthen Skin. Strengthen Beauty.

With the new Pharma Supplements Range.

strengthenyourBEAUTY

@Environ_GlobalEnvironSkinCarewww.environskincare.com

Introducing the new

ESSENTIALSKIN CARE

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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

News in pictures

News

Says Orleans’s Sara Grave: “We

were looking for an exclusive

salon/spa brand with an

established international presence

and a strong NPD (New Product

Development) element, as we believe

this an important attribute, because it

prevents brand stagnation and keeps

product formulae at the cutting edge.

In addition, we wanted a brand with a

safe and effective chemical peel.

“Sothys is 70 years young and is an

independently owned family business.

The entire product development and

production process is in-house.”

Grave describes Sothys as a

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

highly specialised brand that has always

stood out in terms of its extraordinary

commitment to research and innovation.

“Sothys claims its place as an avant-

garde beauty expert,” she continues.

“It is the creator of Digi-Esthetique, an

exclusive treatment method that,

with the essential partnership of

therapists, helps to transform it

into an unforgettable sensorial

experience.

“Many of the professional

treatments come in kit format, which

assists the salon/spa in optimising

productivity of its professional

stock.”

Genop Healthcare recently held its first official

launch for Exuviance, NeoStrata’s salon

skincare range, in Johannesburg to coincide

with the release of two Exuviance products

– Super Retinol Concentrate and Vitamin

C+ Antiaging Booster. Pictured are Genop’s

Dianne Rix and Kelly Jefferson.

Premium French skincare brand Sothys has appointed Cape Town-based Orleans Distributors as its exclusive distributor for South Africa.

Sothys appoints SA distributor

industry news

5

Babor celebrates 60 yearsLuxury German skincare brand Babor

marks its 60th birthday this year and has

launched the ‘Since 1956’ HY-ÖL Limited

Edition in celebration of this milestone.

Says Lynn-Ann Fuchsloch of Babor South

Africa: “When he created the classic HY-

ÖL cleanser in 1956, Dr Michael Babor laid

the foundations for the brand. As HY-ÖL

has been a best-seller for six decades, it is

fitting that the ‘Since 1956’ Limited Edition

set contains HY-ÖL and a Phytoactive for

the specific skin type.”

Fuchsloch points out that Babor has,

over the years, adhered to the philosophy of HY-ÖL, while at the

same time modernising it.

“To the present day, it contains natural oils and herbal extracts

to cleanse the skin. A more recent addition to the formula is quillaja

extract, which is obtained from the bark of the soap tree and acts

like a dirt magnet.

“The herbal elixirs in the Phytoactive have been complemented

by a detoxifying extract of Agrimonia eupatoria, which stimulates

the skin’s metabolism,” she explains.

Page 8: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

6 industry news

6

News in briefSMP at RevitalabPretoria-based medical aesthetics clinic, Revitalab Face, Figure & Vigour, is now offering the Beauty Medical Tricopigmentation treatment.

Also known as Scalp Micro

Pigmentation (SMP), the

treatment is akin to a non-

permanent tattoo on the scalp that

gives the illusion of hair.

Revitalab’s Martelie Giezing

recently underwent training in Milan,

Italy, where the SMP brand originates,

having been founded by Milena Lardì.

Says Giezing: “There are three

applications of SMP – the density

effect, the scar camouflage and

the shaved effect. This system

tattoos dots on the scalp with a

0.5mm needle, which penetrates the

superficial layer of the dermis.

“The pigment is not the same as

used in permanent make-up, as that

pigment turns blue with time. Our

pigment is a universal brown ink,

The Global Mentorship Programme (GMP) has

appointed spa consultant Emmy Stoltz as its regional supervisor for Africa.

Says Stoltz: “The GMP initiative was created is the

uplift the spa industry as a whole through mentorship. It is done freely by

all and no payment is involved. This is the first time where mentors and

mentees from across Africa, Mauritius and Seychelles will be paired.”

The 2016 Global Mentorship Program consists of two 6-month sessions,

from January-June and July-December. For more information visit

www.mentorshipevidence.com/mentorship/global-mentorship-program

which is the same tone as the keratin

in hair. The treatment will last for two

years if there are no touch-ups. We

recommend touch-ups twice or three

times a year.”

Giezing aims to become an SMP

trainer and believes the system is ideal

for beauty salons and hairdressers.

GMP appoints regional supervisor

■ SA presence at Professional Beauty London: Three South African companies exhibited at the recent Professional Beauty London Show at Excel, namely Lilian Terry International, Zinplex and Marshall’s Traditional Healthcare (Lays Beauty).

■ Anesi to launch new products: Exclusive Beauty Solutions will introduce the latest anti-ageing products from the Anesi Laboratory on 23 May (Johannesburg), 25 May (Bloemfontein) and 30 May (Cape Town). Anesi’s Patricia Jurado and Esther Mendez will attend. Call Pearl on 011 791 4027 or e-mail [email protected]

■ 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions appoints distributor: MatsiMela Home Spa has been appointed the exclusive distributor for 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions, a high-quality range from the US which uses a unique application technique.

■ SkinMiles.com launches: Renowned aesthetician Dr Alek Nikolic has created the online retail store, SkinMiles.com, to showcase skincare products endorsed by both doctors and celebrities alike.

■ Top natural beauty trends: Fermented beauty products, raw processing, bacteria-rich formulas and waterless application are tipped to become some of the hottest natural beauty trends, according to a report by the Innovation Group, the trend forecasting arm of J Walter Thompson Intelligence.

Page 9: Pro Beauty May 2016

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Page 10: Pro Beauty May 2016
Page 11: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

industry news

News in pictures

by specialists

in Poland. The

treatment involves

applying liquid

nitrogen vapour

directly onto

the face, neck

and head to

stimulate collagen

p r o d u c t i o n ,

reduce wrinkles,

and brighten dark spots, among other

benefits.”

Pienaar notes that clients like having

the CryoFacials and SleekSculpt

treatment simultaneously. “We have

been testing the SleekSculpt treatment

for the last three months and have

Based in Cape Town, the recently opened CryoLiving treatment centre, believed to be South Africa’s first cryotherapy clinic, now offers CryoFacials and the SleekSculpt body treatment.

CryoLiving owner Eugene

Pienaar explains that

cryotherapy has been

around since 1978, where it

was first used in Japan for

the management of pain

and inflammation in patients

suffering from rheumatoid

arthritis.

He continues: “In America

it is now extremely popular

amongst people who are purely

using it for general wellness, as

it offers an incredible sense of

wellbeing. Cryotherapy employs

low temperatures for healing

and pain relief.

“Our CryoFacials have proved so

popular that we are buying additional

devices and will be adding rooms to

our facility quite soon to accommodate

the interest. They are performed by

Belinda Woods, who was trained

Dermalogica and Radiant Healthcare held a workshop in

Johannesburg at the end of February to showcase how

combining innovative technologies, devices and skincare

products can maximise revenue. Pictured are Danelle Landman,

Dr Adri Hofmeister, Menna Kleine and Bianca Bezuidenhout.

Nerina Moodley and Elizma Smith, the new

owners of Xtreme Lashes South Africa,

recently returned from Houston Texas, where

they underwent training (including marketing

and sales training) with the Xtreme Lashes

brand.

“This opportunity allowed us to bring

back the latest lash techniques, sales and

marketing skills to offer stylists, students and

educators around the country.

“We personally met with Jo Mousselli,

CEO and co-founder of Xtreme Lashes, and

she spent time with us sharing her vision

and passion for this brand. Elizma and I

also met with many of the key people in the

organisation and were given presentations

on different aspects of this business, as

well as tours around the company’s various

departments,” says Moodley.

Training to the ‘Xtreme’

Cryotherapy takes off

assisted clients in losing between

5cm and 23cm over the course of

five treatments.

“The treatment involves

cryostimulation, followed by the

application of active cosmetics

to the legs, hips and abdomen.

We then wrap the targeted areas

and administer a very detoxifying

compression therapy.”

CryoLiving currently has a

CryoSauna manufactured by

Polish company, Juka. Pienaar

continues: “Because the treatment

time is just three minutes, we can

easily handle groups of 30 clients

in a two-hour slot. And we can do

up to three slots a day.”

9

Page 12: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

10 industry news

The Rain Forest Day Spa follows in

the footsteps of The Forest Day

Spa in Swellendam, The Cocoon

in Cavendish Mall and The Nest in

Willowbridge Shopping Centre.

Says Rain’s Juani Walters: “All of

our spas have an African feel, which is

encapsulated in their rituals, look and

natural products. The rituals include

treatments such as Rain Dance, The

Sole, Mother Africa, Metamorphosis

and the signature treatment, Elephant

Walk.

“Our new spa at Village Ridge

Boutique Hotel is a joint venture

between Rain and the hotel. The latter

forms part of the business interests

of one of Rain’s director’s, so it was a

natural choice for us. The hotel also

embodies the quality and luxury that

the Rain brand stands for.

“We created our own product range

for our spas called Biologie, made with

100% natural ingredients, as well as

organic wild-harvested oils.”

The Village Ridge Spa has two

single treatment rooms, a couples’

room and a luxury hand treatment

area. There is also a pool with a ‘chill

area’ and a sauna, as well as a fully

equipped gym.

According to Walters, there are

currently two full-time therapists

employed at the spa, with a third

to be added soon, as well as a

contractor.

Ronel Botes is the spa manager in

charge of all the Rain spas.

Walters notes that Rain is one of

the few companies in the beauty

and spa industries that is both Fair

Trade and Beauty Without Cruelty

accredited.

Rain, a leading eco-ethical bath and body product company based in Swellendam, recently added a day spa and store at The Village Ridge Boutique Hotel in Nieuw Muckleneuk, Pretoria.

BTL SA celebrates five yearsBTL Aesthetics SA recently celebrated

five years of operating in South Africa.

“We are delighted to announce

that a number of new doctors are now

offering our technologically advanced

treatments,” says the company’s

Branislav Sucansky.

These include Dr M Baholo of the

BioMolecular Rejuvenation Institute,

who has a background as a family

physician. From the same institute

is Bridget Hall, who has extensive

knowledge in biotechnology, used in

conjunction with health & wellness,

aesthetics, and slimming programmes.

Dr Jenni Irvine of The Aesthetics

Centre has been actively engaged in

the field of aesthetics medicine since

2006. In 2012 she was one of the first

South African Medical Practitioners ever

to have attained Board Certification

with the prestigious American Academy

of Aesthetic Medicine.

Founder of Zipp Health, Dr Gavin

Zipp, qualified as a medical doctor

in 1983. He focuses on general

family medicine and also practices

aesthetic medicine.

Dr M Baholo Bridget Hall Jenni Irvine Dr Gavin Zipp

It’s ‘raining’ spas!

Page 13: Pro Beauty May 2016

AMPOULE CONCENTRATESFP

#oftencopiednevermatched

BABOR South AfricaTelephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: [email protected] • Website: www.babor.co.za

babor.co.za

SouthAfrica_Ampoulle_4er_Anz_210x297_GB.indd 1 03.03.16 13:43

BTL SA celebrates five years

Page 14: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

12 ask the experts

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to

[email protected]

Ask the expertsWhat are the differences between steam rooms and saunas, and what are the health benefits of each?

The beneficial effects

of sweating have

been known for

thousands of years –

both the ancient Greeks

and Romans used the

therapeutic effects of

perspiration. Benefits

include relaxing, detoxing,

building up the immune

system and improving

blood circulation. The

sauna helps to reduce

stress, improve circulation and strengthen the heart.

Regular sauna bathing builds up the body’s immunological

powers and has a positive effect on metabolism. Influenza

infections, for example, are prevented effectively. The dry

heat in the sauna expands the blood vessels, leading to

increased blood flow, thereby contributing to an improved

supply of oxygen to the heart.

In steam baths, the high moisture content is particularly

beneficial for relieving sinus congestion and respiratory

problems. It is strongly recommended for asthma and

bronchitis sufferers. Breathing passages are soothed by the

increased moisture content in the nose, throat and lungs.

Asthma sufferers may choose the steam room, whilst those

with bad blood circulation may prefer a dry heat sauna.

However, anyone suffering from a medical condition should

consult their doctor before using either type of facility.

Louise Melunsky is the sales manager (Johannesburg) of Wellness Fitness Africa, which started in Cape Town in 2003. The business is now involved with the planning, supply and installation of equipment in major hotel spas and day spas.

Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Emmy Stoltz started her career at Camelot International in 1998 as an enthusiastic student. Stoltz has been with MatsiMela Home Spa since 2011 as the Head of Spa Distribution.

How should I prepare a treatment room for a client?

The correct set-up of a treatment room is an

indication of your professionalism and dedication to

the client’s comfort.

Basics include:

• Yourareaneedstobespotless and uncluttered;

• Ensureconsultationforms, recommendation cards, etc. are at hand;

• Yourroommustbestocked with all the required equipment and products;

• Ensurethetemperatureiscorrect–haveaheatedbeanbag, electric blanket or cosy comforter in the colder months;

• Haveextratowels,blanketsandbolstersreadilyavailable;

• Ensurethebedispreparedforyourclientsinaspecialway to customise your spa;

• Musicmustbeonandsetatthecorrectlevel;

• Usedimmers,tracklighting,avarietyoflamps,candlesand different wattage light bulbs to create a relaxing ambience;

• Createasoft,customisedscentthroughcandles,diffusers or burners.

Additional touches:• Avanitywithsoapandlotion;

• Cosychangingspotwithachair,table,waterandflowers;

• Bowlundermassagebedface-holewithsomethingunique to your spa;

• Bathmatonfloor;

• HotCabbiwithheatedoil,compressorsand eye pillows.

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the skin, enhancing firmness &

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appearance of cellulite.

SKIN689®

CREME ANTI-CELLULITE

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Page 17: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016 COMPARE WITH

MARCH 2015?

INSIDER SALONWhile Easter falling in

March benefitted the

spa industry, particularly

destination spas, it

seemed to have the

opposite effect on salons. Some salons said the public

and school holidays had a negative effect on turnover,

as did the current political and economic climate.

Others found that a lot of people went away over the

period. Retail sales were also down on the same time

last year, with clients becoming increasingly conscious

of what they spend on cosmetics.

As to discounting websites, one salon has success-

fully advertised on Groupon for certain treatments

such as fat freezing and laser hair removal, but would

never do so for facials, time-consuming treatments

or treatments that

use many products.

Another salon

never uses discount

websites, believing

that they cheapen the

profession.

Salons reported that

clients talking calls on

their cell phones in

the salon, particularly

during mani or pedi

sessions, is a great

annoyance, as are last

minute cancellations

and clients arriving

late for appointments.

The month in numbers

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

61%

83% BETTER

0% SAME

17% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016

COMPARE WITH MARCH 2015?

85% BETTER

10% SAME

5% WORSE

INSIDER SPAThe fact that the Easter

holidays fell in March this year

(as opposed to April in 2015)

had a very positive effect on

spas, 85% of which reported an

increase in treatment business.

Some spas also increased their

prices, which accounted in part

for an increase in revenue. One

spa benefitted from hosting a

corporate group and having

more therapists on duty per

day. Another spa found that

less people in their area went

on holiday this Easter, opting

to enjoy local activities instead.

Some therapists were able to

upsell their treatments.

Retail sales during March

2016 were also up. Reasons

cited were regular refreshment

training with product houses

and offering therapists bigger

incentives.

We asked spas if they offer

specials on discounting websites (such as

Groupon) and all spas said no, with some of you offering

monthly and seasonal specials

through social media and

emailers instead, and others

preferring to offer value rather

than discounted treatments.

One spa passes discounts

directly to their loyal spa

customers as a reward for

booking directly with the spas,

to build a customer base of

returning clients, as opposed

to a customer base of bargain

hunters.

The most annoying client

habit that spas reported is

clients is arriving late for

appointments, no shows and

not returning locker keys. PB

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

71%

7% BETTER

3% SAME

90% WORSE

Insider

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016 COMPARE WITH

MARCH 2015?

4% BETTER

6% SAME

90% WORSE

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016

COMPARE WITH MARCH 2015?

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in south Africa to track business in March 2016.

business trends

15

Page 18: Pro Beauty May 2016

Stitching the aesthetic and medical worlds together.

Danné Montague-King (DMK) can enhance and prolong the results of fi llers and injectables and minimise post surgery downtime to days, not months.

DMK Pre and Post Operative Treatments work on the premise that the healthier skin functions are prior to surgery, the faster it heals and the better the result.

DMK Skin Revision Protocols can offer you:• New clientele with high levels of client retention and

satisfaction• A competitive advantage in an ever-changing market• Pre and Post Operative Treatment Protocols for medical

procedures• Alignment with medical practices• The benefi ts of high retail margins• International education and marketing support

With DMK Skin Revision Protocols.

BEFORE AFTER

Before and after images demonstrate one of many DMK signature treatments designed to assist healthy skin recovery.

www.dmkskincare.co.za

DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES

+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica

Page 19: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

business tips

17

The following sentence

is on the lips of every

South African you speak

to: “This is going to be a

tough year. We will have

to tighten our belts and watch the

finances.”

Now for business owners, this is

the last thing that you want to hear

consumers saying. But it really isn’t

the end of your business as you know

it, as there are ways to beat a tough

economy. Understanding how to do

this will be important.

According to Focus Economics

(an online economics platform),

South Africa recovered its economy

at the end of last year and started to

look positive, until we had political

unrest and one of the worst droughts

the country has experienced in years.

This doesn’t just affect politicians

and farmers – it affects the entire

country and all areas of business.

The general trading conditions

in South Africa’s retail market have

remained challenging in the first

quarter of 2016, with more and more

consumers choosing where to spend

their money versus just buying their

usual goods. Wherever they choose

to spend is what they value and your

Are we in for a bumpy ride?

Lauren Gibson provides some insight on how to keep your business going in a tough economy.

business needs to be on that spend

list.

International players with heritage,

brand portfolios and experience are

going to lead the pack in 2016 and will

set the pace for South African markets.

Many health and beauty specialist

retailers have continued to increase

the quality and variety of high end

or private label products they offer

in an attempt to remain competitive,

generate higher margins and take

advantage of branding opportunities.

But this may be a fad and will be short

lived as consumers want expertise.

Seven out of 10 consumers would R

Stitching the aesthetic and medical worlds together.

Danné Montague-King (DMK) can enhance and prolong the results of fi llers and injectables and minimise post surgery downtime to days, not months.

DMK Pre and Post Operative Treatments work on the premise that the healthier skin functions are prior to surgery, the faster it heals and the better the result.

DMK Skin Revision Protocols can offer you:• New clientele with high levels of client retention and

satisfaction• A competitive advantage in an ever-changing market• Pre and Post Operative Treatment Protocols for medical

procedures• Alignment with medical practices• The benefi ts of high retail margins• International education and marketing support

With DMK Skin Revision Protocols.

BEFORE AFTER

Before and after images demonstrate one of many DMK signature treatments designed to assist healthy skin recovery.

www.dmkskincare.co.za

DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES

+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica

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business tips

18

Lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She is currently the regional manager of the Cape Town team.

rather go to a recognised expert

in the field in a tougher economy

versus a general store. Examples are

businesses like brow bars, skin bars

and lash bars.

This year will see a generalised

4% compound annual growth rate on

2015 in health and beauty specialist

retailers and this is expected to be

driven mainly by the expanding

presence of medical doctors and

pharmacies now able to offer health

and beauty services. Although this

is lower than the 9% growth in 2015

versus 2014, it is still showing growth

where some sectors will be showing

a 0% growth rate or be lucky not to

go into a decline.

Lipstick effectSo why is there a strong demand

despite the poor economic growth?

It’s the lipstick effect. Beauty sales

always seem to experience a boost

in tougher economic times. In fact,

at a conference given by RMB (Rand

Merchant Bank) recently, they said

that the health and beauty sector in

South Africa will be one of the best

performing sectors in a tougher

economy.

I believe the lipstick effect dates

back to the era of World War II, but

studies have shown that after 9/11

attacks in New York, certain health

and beauty products saw double

digit growth in sales of units.

The lipstick effect is based

on the theory that, when facing

an economic crisis, consumers will be

more willing to buy less costly luxury

goods. Instead of buying expensive

fur coats, for example, people will

buy expensive lipstick. For example,

your clients may not buy their usual

five products but they will still come

in for a treatment and buy three retail

products (the industry average for

2016) if they are important to them.

Clients will look for products that

offer multifunctional benefits and

come in economical sizes that can be

refilled, or sizes that can be chosen

according to budget.

RelevanceTo ensure growth in your business

you need to look at more than just

trends, data and past performance.

How relevant are you? Do you

understand the age of the customer

and what their needs are and how

their needs change in a tougher

economy? Have you identified the

customer’s micro-moment? (This

is a small moment that catches a

consumer’s attention and often leads

to impulse buys as something tells

them to take action.)

Are you making it easy to be in your

store, buy from your store and book

treatments in your store? Sixty-four-

percent of consumers shop at their

favourite shop because something

generates a micro-moment, such as a

different display or catchy marketing.

How active are you on social

media? It is not going to go away.

Ninety-three-percent of buying

is influenced by social media. In

tougher times consumers want to see

what others are doing and how they

are living a great life. If their favourite

celeb is always in your skin centre,

they will find the money to visit your

store just by seeing it on social media.

It is estimated that by 2020 there

will be 50 billion connected devices

– that is six devices per person! Can

you really not be connected?

Time managementYou need to polish up on time

management – a critical skill that will

end up saving you money and add to

your GP (Gross Profit) at the end of

each month. Money can be gained

or lost, but time can only be used or

wasted.

Other factors to consider are

therapists’ maximum potential and

productivity levels, treatment room

occupancy rates and the number

of units being sold per day. Try and

create a benchmark according to a

good industry average and work off

that.

At the end of the day we can

succeed in 2016. We just have to

ensure that we work smarter, better

and faster to ensure maximum

productivity in a tough economic

climate. PB

The lipstick effect... Beauty sales always seem to experience a boost in tougher economic times.

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Topgel_SA_R out 20160216.pdf 1 2016/02/17 3:29 PM

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Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

If we don’t make money in

our business, no lives will be

enhanced, including our own.

Retail sales should contribute

a minimum of 30% to your

treatment turnover and are an easy

way to make a profit.

Retailing is the process of selling a

product to consumers.

Merchandising is the practice

contributing to the sale of products to

the customer.

Selling is creating a demand for the

retail product (i.e. the merchandise).

We’ve often spoken about the

importance of excellent staff, good

location, keeping up with trends,

offering great value and ensuring that

the customer feels and looks fabulous,

while focusing on return business.

But we need to look at retailing and

merchandising, which are the two

things that will assist your sales.

It is no longer enough to simply

display products and hope for sales.

Today you need to be strategic and

have a merchandising plan to ensure

that the products are displayed in

a way that makes them become

irresistible.

Psychology of sellingYou have to be smart and think

about the psychology of selling. Did

you know that in a large store the

cheapest products are always placed

on the lowest shelves, with the more

expensive placed at eye level and

above? The more units of a product

that are displayed, the cheaper they

are. Customers know this. They get

the psychology.

Our job is to reinforce it. So, when

displaying products, think of the Triple

V factor:

Visibility – products must be easily

accessible.

Voiceability – staff must be able to

fully explain the products to the client.

Verifyability – the client needs to be

able to verify what the staff member

tells her, by testing the product

samples.

A salon should tantalise customers

with colours, scents, feelings and

effects, combined with packaging and

branding.

Spas are filled with possibilities for

displaying merchandise – treatment

rooms, relaxation lounges and locker

rooms. You don’t want to overdo

spa and salon owners will tell you that they are in the beauty industry to make clients feel good, look beautiful and to enhance their lives. That is true. But honestly, we’re in business (like any other people in business) to make money, writes Debbie Merdjan.

it, but you do want to make use of

the space available. Be subtle, well

organised, use the light well, and

draw the customer in.

Engage and inspire the

customer. Tell them a story about the

merchandise. Your product house

supplier will help you in terms of how

to stack and group the products,

how to illuminate them and how to

incorporate a theme. Work with them

and don’t be scared to ask for help.

Look at your merchandise and ask

yourself… does it evoke an emotion?

Do you want to reach out and buy it?

If the answer is yes, then wait.

Watch. And reap the rewards. Your

merchandise will sell. And you will

enhance your life, and those of

others. PB

The subtle art of retailing, merchandising and selling

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22

How do you keep up with what is trending

when, in the blink of an eye, Hyaluronic

acid is yesterday’s news and the new must-

have is bee venom, or last year’s Green tea

is this year’s Ginseng?

After having sifted through a mountain of information, I’ve

decided to break it down and bring you the highlights.

Must-haveDNA repair enzymes – some would say that these have

revolutionised the fight against ageing caused by UV radiation.

Imagine this… can an ingredient, when applied to sun-

damaged skin, potentially prevent the development of cancer,

reverse the effects of UV exposure and prevent all related UV-

ageing like wrinkles, sun spots and sagging? The answer is

yes, DNA repair enzymes can.

Over-exposure to the sun damages the strands between

your DNA. This sets off a chain reaction that impedes cell

function, which can ultimately cause the mutations that lead

to cancer. DNA repair enzymes have the ability to eliminate

Movers & shakers in the world of ingredientsAt the supercharged pace with which technology moves today it is almost impossible for spas, salons and therapists to keep up with changes in skincare ingredients, writes Ayesha Rajah.

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business tips

23

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

What’s trending‘Me make-up’ fits in directly with one

of the largest growing consumer

trends, namely hyper-

personalisation. Consumers

now want everything tailor-

made, for example, ‘Not any

red lipstick, but the red lipstick

made for me.”

We are seeing major strides in the

world of colour cosmetic ingredients,

with a trend called custom blending.

Everything from your eye shadow, to

lip gloss, lipstick and even foundation,

can be uniquely signature-blended

just for you. You can go one step

further and change the performance

of your foundation; you can request

more oil control, change the texture,

go from more coverage to sheer, and,

best of all, get the perfect colour

match for your skin.

same time, hard enough and smooth

enough to be considered for their

great exfoliating benefits. Watch out

for a hefty price tag though.

The big ban – microbeads The Microbeads Must Fall initiative

has gone global, as microbeads have

already had such a negative impact

on the environment that President

Obama signed a bill last December

banning all plastic particles in personal

care products. The bill is called The

Microbeads Free Waters Act.

It was surprising to discover

how many products incorporate

microbeads – not only exfoliators

and face washes, but body washes,

body scrubs, foot scrubs and even

toothpaste.

TalcWith all eyes focused on the recent

talcum powder ovarian cancer lawsuit,

it is useful to know how it affects our

industry. Talcum powder is found

in loose and pressed powder, eye

shadow, bronzer and foundation.

I must stress, though, that it is the

over-exposure to talc powders that is

dangerous, and they should be kept

away for your nose and mouth due

to the minute particles that are easily

inhaled. PB

the damaged DNA, repair and

correct the sequence, leaving the

skin more resilient, younger-looking

and healthier.

The green buzzIn the natural skincare arena,

marine biotechnology is a game-

changer and can be considered a

‘cosmeceutical’. Its application goes

beyond the benefits of traditional

skincare products. It is seen as the

future of results-oriented cosmetics,

and the bonus is that it is 100%

natural.

To put it simply, marine

biotechnology is the technique of

using marine micro-organisms to

produce, or transform, an active

ingredient without the addition of

chemicals or artificial products,

making it eco-friendly.

Marine biotechnology provides

the cosmetic industry with highly

potent ingredients that provide

powerful results. With an almost

infinite number of possibilities for

new skincare applications, marine

biotechnology consistently delivers

proven long-term and visible results.

Sunblock innovationsSunblocks are fast becoming the new

super creams. Look out for these

innovations: an all-in-one product

containing SPF (Sun Protection

Factor), EPF (Environmental

Protection Factor), which combines

a cocktail of antioxidants to protect

the skin from environmental

aggression, as well as DNA repair

enzymes. Sounds like a well-

coordinated attack against ageing!

The other breakthrough is

an SPF that gives maximum

protection against UV radiation

but allows Vitamin D absorption,

which contains Solar D. These two

processes are normally mutually

exclusive, which has led to a number

of health concerns. I suffer from

severe hyper-pigmentation and wear

sunblock 24/7/365, hence I have

developed such extreme Vitamin D

insufficiency that it brought an onset

of chronic inflammation in my body.

Approximately 40% of children and

60% of adults suffer from a Vitamin

D deficiency. With this sunblock

innovation you get the best of worlds,

a protected skin and a healthy body.

Bee venomOne of the over-the-top ingredients

trending right now is bee venom.

Yes, being lightly stung, or at least

fooling your skin into thinking it has

been gently stung, by a compound

called Melittin, produces great anti-

ageing benefits.

The theory is that applying bee

venom directly to the skin should

trigger a healing effect, thereby

stimulating collagen production and

plumping up fine lines and wrinkles.

Apparently the sensation on the

skin varies from no unusual feeling to

a mild tingling sensation.

Diamonds are a girl’s best friendUsing precious gems in skincare is

all the rage at the moment. Rubies,

emeralds and diamonds are being

incorporated into cleansers and

exfoliators as a polishing agent.

Gemstone particles as fine as dust

are gentle on the skin, but, at the

Page 26: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

24 salon focus

The South African

beauty industry is

characterised by a

multitude of salons

and skin clinics that

open and close after a year or two,

due to questionable service and/

or bad business decisions. So, when

a salon manages to keep going for

four and a half decades, it’s quite

something.

When asked how it feels for

The Mask Skin & Body Clinic to

have reached its 45th anniversary

milestone, Helene Bramwell responds:

“Quite incredible! It has been an

amazing journey from the days of

simple treatments, to an age where

the therapist’s role has become more

valuable and sophisticated than ever

before. The advances in therapies

and cosmetics have kept my passion

for the beauty industry nurtured.”

Bramwell credits the salon’s

success to hard work, keeping up with

the changing role of the therapist

by bringing in new techniques and

therapies, and ensuring that the

salon stays focused on client needs

and committed to results.

“What has been integral to our

longevity has been being involved

in the beauty profession as a whole

and keeping constantly updated,”

she continues. “Over the years I’ve

always ensured that the team sings

out of the same songbook, so to

speak. And, as I keep saying – ‘No

man is an island’ – there are so many

people who have played a role in the

success of The Mask.”

Bramwell notes that she is truly

blessed to have client's that have

supported her since the early 1970s.

“In some cases we are treating

these clients’ children and

grandchildren and I look forward

to the next generation – it is truly

an honour. Many clients have left

Johannesburg but when they happen

to be in town again, they come back

to us. These special relationships are

based on trust,” she comments.

On March 1, The Mask skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg, celebrated its 45th birthday. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to co-founder and owner, Helene Bramwell, about the clinic’s enduring success.

Behind ‘The Mask’

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25 salon focus

Community feelSince inception The Mask has

been situated in Parkview.

“I love Parkview because of

the diverse community and the

general feeling of belonging,”

continues Bramwell. “In the early

years, I was offered many spots in

other suburbs to move my practice

to, like Hyde Park and Sandton, for

example. But Parkview has always

been my first choice.”

Many years ago The Mask

moved from its original small

premises on Tyrone Avenue to

a slightly larger one at 54 Tyrone

Avenue, and then later to 60 Tyrone.

“We now have a much larger

space that can accommodate all the

various disciplines that the clinic

offers. When we opened in 1971 we

had two therapists. It was not easy

in those days as the beauty industry

was an unknown profession. We

were classified as indulgent and only

for affluent, vain and spoilt woman.

Luckily this attitude changed over

time, albeit a long time.

“My partner in The Mask, Mary-

Anne Smith, fell pregnant and we

employed another therapist to assist,

and, as the business grew, we needed

more hands. Training in those early

days was not up to the standard it

is today, so a lot of in-house training

was required. Because

of our attitude and

commitment to success,

we grew and moved to

the larger premises.”

Today there are six

somatologists, two

beauty therapists and

three nail technicians

working at the clinic.

of all being in the same boat, and for

the boat to remain afloat we need to

be going in the same direction.

“My staff are not in competition

with one another, they get paid well

and there is no commission structure.

At the end of the year, if funds will

allow, they get bonuses. In my opinion

this is the only way you keep staff and

ensure they look after the interests of

the practice as a whole. You have

to acknowledge how important

they are and listen to their needs

as well.

“Personally I do believe that one

leads by example – I am passionate

about what I do and this passion

cascades over my team. I like being

involved and I do believe that you

earn a tremendous amount of

respect and commitment from

staff by ‘being one of them’. My

‘open door’ relationship with staff

ensures that any queries, issues or

problems they have can be openly

discussed.”

Celebrations Bramwell and her staff, as well as

a few of her friends, marked the

salon’s 45th birthday by sending off

45 balloons into the atmosphere

in early March.

“Instead of an actual celebratory

event, we will make a donation

to the Woman & Men Against Child

Abuse charity,” she explains.

After having been in the industry

since 1966, Bramwell still relishes

working in the beauty industry.

“It’s such an exciting field to be

in, especially in this ‘feel younger,

look younger’ era,” she says. “We

need to offer clients the most up-to-

date therapies that do the job. This

is a long way away from the ‘classic

massage’ era, although massage is

still enjoyed and effective when using

sophisticated active serums.

“Today we are able to offer

clients advanced therapies such as

laser, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light),

RF (Radiofrequency), LED (Light-

Emitting Diode); micro-needling, skin

peeling, etc.” PB

The original version of The Mask

measured 90 square metres and

comprised a leg waxing cubicle, three

facial cubicles, a small kitchen and

a reception area. Today The Mask

occupies 230 square metres and

includes two waxing cubicles, plus 17

cubicles.

Loyal staffBramwell believes that a business

is only as good as the people you

employ who have the same work ethic

and commitment as you.

“I have had my ups and downs

with staff over the years but I believe

I have been extremely lucky with my

choices. Team spirit and the ability to

share information, discuss issues and

cope with the challenges are very

important. The Mask fosters a culture

“What has been integral to our longevity has been being involved in the beauty profession as a whole and keeping constantly updated.” Helene Bramwell

Page 28: Pro Beauty May 2016

2016

more info: www.probeauty.co.za

BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASSCheck the website for online bookings

and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za

On: 28 & 29 August 2016at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

MONDAY 29 AUGUST 2016

9h00 Registration

9h30 SALES TRAINING WORkSHOP

11h00 Tea

11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued

13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition

14h30 CUSTOMER SERVICE

First contact with your business

Customer narrative

Attention to detail of the customer treatment

Customer feedback: the lost art of connection

15h30 REVENUE MANAGEMENT

Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line

Effective booking of treatments and upselling

Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!

16h30 Close

Let’s talkabout it...

SUNDAY 28 AUGUST 2016

8h30 Registration

9h30 Welcome by Mark Moloney

10h00 kEYNOTE SPEAkER

11h30 Tea / coffee

12h00 STAFF

Staff Retention programmes

How to recruit the right team

Invest in training your team

13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition

15h00 MARkETING

How to put together an advert

Power of copyrighting

Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?

Mobile marketing

16h00 ECO SUSTAINABILITY

Renewal sources

Carbon neutral ideas

17h30 Tea and Close

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27 spa convention

Why do you think it’s important for industry stakeholders to attend events like The International Spa Convention?I think it is important to attend the

International Spa Convention if you

are connected to any part of this

industry so that you have a chance

to listen to ideas and thoughts from

your colleagues. Combined with a

chance to network with experienced

professionals, this convention offers

the opportunity to learn, be inspired

and comprehend how the industry is

developing.

The International Spa Convention

establishes a platform to take time

away from the daily operations

of the spa and gives delegates an

opportunity to think and reflect on

their businesses. The agenda and

mix of delegates stimulates ideas

and actions that can be used to

assist any operator.

What do you think are the biggest challenges facing the global spa industry today?Without doubt the greatest global

challenge is the shortage of skilled

management. Although there are

well established schools to train

in the practical skills of massage

and to train aestheticians, there is

a shortage of people attending the

management programmes. The spa

and wellness industry has exploded

in numbers (as shown in research

conducted by ISPA and the Global

Wellness Institute), which has caused

the shortage of skilled labour.

The second challenge I foresee

is the threat to traditional business

models through disrupters such as

technology, the medical industry or

even the wellness trend.

Technology has already aided

entrepreneurial sites to entice

therapists away from working at spas

to become independent therapists,

who are available online and able to

deliver mobile treatments at their

clients’ homes. Businesses such as

Zeel in the US and Massage.com

in the UK have growth throughout

several key cities. Whether this is a

fad or a trend and how much risk

is involved in this type of business

remains to be seen, but for now it

drains staff away from spas. In fact,

Zeel has started a campaign that

advises spa operators to reduce their

overheads and call a Zeel therapist

to the spa to do the treatment.

The medical industry has become

interested in spa and spa treatments

– particularly as there is growing

scientific evidence of the benefits

of certain massages and treatments.

This may change the way the industry

is regulated and put more demands

on operators to satisfy legislative

protocols in order to operate.

And finally, the trend of wellness

moves spa beyond the walls and to

the entire brand message for hotels

and resorts. Designs will have to

change to include systems that

make people healthy. The advances

in nutrition and healthy eating

will continue and the selection

of programmes may at last be

sustainable.

These are some of the issues I

will raise at the International Spa

Convention.

What will you focus on in your presentations at The International Spa Convention?My presentations will look at the

methods of hiring and retention, and

look at a simple strategy built from

understanding a single KPI (Key

Performance Indicator).

What do you hope that delegates will take away with them from your presentations at The International Spa Convention?I hope that I can provide practical

information and ideas that can be

used at any day spa, hotel or resort.

I hope that delegates will be inspired

and be keen to ask questions that

can help them improve their skills. PB

VP of spa & wellness at the Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts, Andrew Gibson will be a keynote speaker at the International spa Convention, which takes place on 28 & 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

Q&A with Andrew Gibson

The International Spa Convention establishes a platform to take time away from the daily operations of the spa and gives delegates an opportunity to think and reflect on their businesses.

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Customer service should NOT

be a department within

your business, but rather

an attitude that permeates

through each individual

person working in that business, no matter

their position.

To define the term, customer service is

the provision of service to customers before,

during and after a purchase. The perception of

success of such interactions is dependent on

employees ‘who can adjust themselves to the

personality of the guest’.

Empathy / assessmentThis is the ability to understand the customer,

his/her needs and mood. Let’s say a customer

feels cheated or disappointed – a company

representative with effective customer skills

must respond in a tone and manner that will

appease and reassure the customer.

To assess is to ask questions and gather

customer-related information through

observation to gauge the needs and potential

of a customer. Look and listen for subtle

clues about their current mood, patience

level, personality, etc., and you’ll go far in

keeping your customer interactions positive.

Patience and tactJoyce Meyer said: ‘Patience is not the ability

to wait but how you act while you are

waiting’.

Great service beats fast service so be

sure to take the time to figure out what your

customer truly wants. Listen with your ears,

eyes and heart. What are you customers

really telling you without saying it?

The customer of today will remain loyal to your business based purely on how you made them feel during the time they spent with you and how you engaged with them, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

Customer service

29 spa focus

R

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30 spa focus

Tact is an important attribute in

customer service. As Winston Churchill

said: ‘Tact is the ability to tell someone

to go to hell in such a way that they

look forward to the trip’. Never blame

the customer.

Always keep your cool. You cannot

let an upset customer force you to

lose your cool no matter what they say

or how they say it.

Clear communicationWhen it comes to important points

that you need to relay clearly to

customers, keep it simple and leave

nothing to doubt.

For example, when you are

confirming a treatment, make sure

you name the type of treatment, its

duration, the therapist involved, the

date, time and venue.

NegotiationTo negotiate well, you need patience

and tact, empathy and assessment.

You need to be able to make quick and

shrewd decisions regarding customer

needs and company policy to satisfy

both ends.

A classic example here is when a

client arrives late for their treatment

and really wants the full treatment

time. The art of negotiation can mean

the difference between losing this

client (and they spread a negative

story) or keeping this client loyal

forever and they spread the story

about how amazing your service is.

Movie starGreat customer service = basic acting

skills necessary to maintain your usual

cheery persona in spite of dealing with

people who may be just plain grumpy.

Sometimes you’re going to come

across people that you’ll never be able

to make happy. So best you polish up

those acting skills and remember that

a good actor never comes across as

fake.

Do you talk a ‘positive language’?Your ability to make minor changes

in your conversational patterns can

truly go a long way in creating happy

customers.

Here’s an example: let’s say a

customer expresses interest in a

particular product, but that product

happens to be on back order until next

month.

Small changes that utilise ‘positive

language’ can greatly affect how

the customer hears your response.

Consider the following two examples:

Without positive language: “I can’t

get you that product until next month;

it is back-ordered and unavailable at

this time.”

With positive language: “That

product will be available next month.

I can place the order for you right now

and make sure that it is sent to you as

soon as it reaches our salon/spa.”

Do you look how your customer wants to feel?Is your make-up impeccable and

actually on your face? Is your hair

clean, neat, tidy, healthy looking and

not all colours of the rainbow?

Are your toenails and fingers nails

perfectly polished and groomed. Are

your teeth clean and white and do

you have fresh breath? Do you look

gorgeous?

Product knowledgeThe best forward-facing employees

in your company will work on having

a deep knowledge of every product

and treatment offered.

Without knowing your product

from front-to-back, you won’t know

how to help customers when they run

into problems. Do the test today, walk

past a therapist holding a product

you picked up off your shelf and ask

her to list one active ingredient in the

product and sell it to you.

Time managementIf you don’t know the solution to a

problem, move on and hand your

customer over to someone who does.

For example, if you are going to

spend 30 minutes of a manicure on

the application of lacquer because

you simply don’t paint nails well, then

it is time to move on from manicures,

or practise until you are perfect.

Persuasion skillsIt’s not about making a sales pitch over

the phone when booking treatments

or after a treatment recommending

products, it’s about not letting

potential customers slip away because

you couldn’t create enough worth for

the customer to buy the product.

For example, when a customer calls

in wanting a specific brand of product

which you might not stock, persuasion

skills are needed to convince this

customer to still book their treatment

with your spa using a different

product.

DeterminationA great work ethic and a willingness

to do whatever needs to be done (and

not take shortcuts) is a key skill when

providing the kind of service that

people talk about.

The many memorable customer

service stories out there (many of

which had a huge impact on the

business) were created by a single

employee who refused to just do the

‘status quo’ when it came to helping

someone out. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.

Great service beats fast

service so be sure to take the time to figure out what your customer truly

wants.

Page 33: Pro Beauty May 2016
Page 34: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

Situated near the town of

Clanwilliam, Bushmans

Kloof is surrounded by the

spectacular Cederberg

Mountain range and

stunning landscapes.

“In these surroundings, spa guests

feel as though they are in an oasis,”

says spa manager Dee Basson.

“There is a natural healing energy

that one feels when staying at the

Bushmans Kloof Lodge. With our

beautiful environment, we feel that

it is important to incorporate holistic

principles and natural healing in the

treatments.”

She notes that the spa interior is

designed in natural muted tones of

whites, creams, beiges, stones and

marble. “The spa exudes a calming,

light and spiritual ambience, where

guests can succumb to the tranquil

world of pampering.

“One of the unique features of the

spa is our beautiful Crystal Steam

Room. It features a central block

of pure rock quartz crystal, which

is renowned as a ‘master healer’. It

helps cleanse and enhance the

organs, connecting the physical

dimension with the mind,

and aids concentration while

unlocking memory.”

‘Soul’utionWhen commenting on the Ceder-

berg ‘Soul’ution, the spa’s signature

treatment, Basson points out that

it was inspired by the Cederberg

Mountains.

“Bushmans Kloof is situated in the

heart of the area where Rooibos is

winner of the Professional Beauty Award for Hotel/Resort spa of the Year 2015, The spa at Bushmans Kloof wilderness Reserve & wellness Retreat in the western Cape places emphasis on ‘natural healing energy’, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

spa focus

32

Journey to wellness

Page 35: Pro Beauty May 2016

33

Professional Beauty May 2016

spa focus spa focus

33

grown,” she continues. “The spa’s 90-minute signature

treatment is performed in our secluded Riverside

Gazebo, where the guest is indulged in a unique

combination of soothing therapeutic treatments

that are based on ancient African traditions and the

aromatic power of blends of indigenous Rooibos and

Fynbos vegetation, combined with healing plant oils.

“This treatment includes a relaxing massage, utilising

hot stones to prepare the muscles, a Rooibos milk bath

foot treatment and a face and scalp massage.”

The Spa at Bushmans Kloof uses the signature

brand of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection, namely

B|Africa. This range of exclusive body care products

and professional spa treatments is prepared by

blending native African plant extracts with the

natural goodness of the sea and eco-friendly

production technologies.

Accolades aplentyIn addition to the Professional Beauty Hotel/Resort

Spa of the Year 2015 Award, The Spa at Bushmans

Kloof has won the following awards: Spa Magazine

Silver Sage Readers’ Choice Awards: Favourite Resort/

Hotel Spa in Africa and the Middle East (2009); Les

Nouvelles Esthétiques Spa Awards: Winner Unique Spa

(2011); The Safari Awards 2016: Runner-up Best Safari

Spa/Retreat (2015); and International Wellness Travel

Awards: Best in South Africa (2015).

Unlike some other destination spas, which also

operate on a day spa basis, The Spa at Bushmans

Kloof is dedicated exclusively to guests who stay at

the Lodge. PB

SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Bushmans Kloof (The Red Carnation Hotel Collection)

Opened: 2002

Size: 173 square metres

Number of treatment rooms: Four rooms, riverside gazebo

Number of full-time therapists: Five

Hydro facilities: Crystal Steam Room, heated outdoor pool

Brands: Elemis, Dermalogica, Mio and B|Africa

Page 36: Pro Beauty May 2016

DURBAN12 & 13 JUNE 2016

For your FREE entry, pre-register at

www.probeauty.co.za

The key To your beauTy business poTenTial

unlock your opTions!

Educationail Workshop Professional Beauty Network Breakfast

Stock up on show specials Source new products

Focus on future and professional development

Probeauty Dbn 2016.indd 2 2016/04/14 10:27 AM

Page 37: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

35 professional beauty durban 2016

Professional Beauty

Durban offers visitors

an excellent networking

opportunity and the

chance to source new

suppliers, compare existing ones and

find out what the latest innovations

are. Not only can visitors compare

price, product and suppliers, many

exhibitors will also offer visitors to

their stands excellent ‘show only’

offers.

Here is a sneak peek at some of the

companies who will be exhibiting at

the show.

Acu-sol (Dermacare) will showcase

a fantastic range of Italian waxes that

are new to South Africa.

Best Lasers helps its clients to take

their businesses to the next level both

financially and technologically by

adding Alma Lasers to their practice.

The company provides extensive

training to clients, as well as technical

support with local and international

backing. Best Lasers registers the

client with the Department of Health

& Safety and provides essential

information regarding all the necessary

precautions operators must take when

using a laser.

Bio Sculpture Gel will showcase its

innovative new EVO Gel, which will be

available at the show, along with many

other show specials.

Visit the Brisan Distributors stand

to find out why customers worldwide

prefer Alexandria Body Sugaring for

hair removal. This is a 100% natural,

skin friendly, safe, gentle and far less

painful alternative to waxing, which

leads to permanency, leaves the skin

exfoliated and silky smooth and can

be used on all parts of the body.

BTL Industries designs and

manufactures non-surgical machines

for the aesthetic market that represent

the best devices in fat dissolving, skin

tightening, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle,

lymph drainage and IPL treatments.

Calgel – come to our stand to

find out about our half-price training

programmes in Durban and our new

Calgel Top Gel, which gives clients a

long-lasting shine.

Creative Glamour – come and test

our new and improved brush cleaner,

or buy a limited edition purple brush

holder, or be more professional with

our mixing thumb palette.

Ikhokha – this

system enables

hundreds of

hair and beauty

p r o f e s s i o n a l s

to accept card

payments from

their salon, or in their clients’ homes.

It’s a card machine in your pocket that

comes in hot pink. Come and visit

Ikhokha at stand A11 and get a R100

show discount.

kalahari produces a range of

world-class skin and body products

that capture not only the earthy

goodness of nature, but the unique,

sensory experience of Africa. Using

So, what’s on show?The Professional Beauty Durban show, taking place from 12 to 13 June at the Durban ICC, is positioned to play a crucial role in allowing beauty industry professionals to benchmark the latest products, services and equipment.

Affordable software and support

for everyone from a home salon to the

most sophisticated spa or group. ESP Software gives you the opportunity

to create a professional as well as

personal environment for your clients.

With ESP’s modular philosophy you

can grow your software as you grow

your business from sales to balance

sheet and everything in between.

Pic: Moyou

R

Page 38: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

36 professional beauty durban 2016

only naturally harvested botanical

ingredients, Kalahari’s superior plant

oils and phyto-effective extracts are

compounded into quality skincare

solutions that restore and nourish your

skin.

At kryolan, we make make-up. But

not like anybody else. Because unlike

everybody else, we actually make our

make-up. We‘ve done it our own way

for 70 years and three generations.

We think of it. We manufacture it.

Formulate it and love it into existence.

Book a Luscious Lashes International Training course at the

show valued @ R5,500 and receive kit

with training @ R4,500.

Visit Lilian Terry International – creators of homeopathic aroma-

therapy – at stand D17 to take

advantage of a 10% off show special.

The company will showcase its LT

FlexyCups and visitors can experience

complexes, wraps, gels and toners on

the stand.

Moyou Nails offers high quality and

long lasting nail designs. This product

is unique because it is the only one of

its kind in Africa. Buy the Salon Pro

Sets for R1,500 and receive three free

nail polishes in any colour.

Polish Applique from Nailsforu is an

easy to remove LED / UV cured gel top

coat applied over your favourite brand

of base coat and polish. It promotes

a smooth gel like effect and improves

performance and longevity, and

provides a protective, hard-wearing,

durable polish overlay. Magnificent

high gloss surface shine and Toluene,

Formadehyde and DBP free.

Nature’s Essence is a leading

manufacturer and marketer of herbal

and aromatherapy based skincare, hair

care, and body care range of products

with a sister concern by the name of

Coloressence, promoting make-up

and colour cosmetics on a national

and international level.

Nouveau Contour is the industry

leader worldwide in permanent

and re-constructive make-up in 26

countries. Now offering South Africa

the best pigments, equipment and

training in our Nouveau Academy.

(Beware of imitations.)

For more than 40 years, NSI (Nail Systems International) has

been at the forefront of

researching, developing

and manufacturing

innovative products with

cutting edge ideas for

the professional nail care

industry.

Pure Smile is the only 100% natural

teeth whitening supplier in Africa.

Quick: 30-minute once-off session.

Efficient: gain from two to nine shades.

Painless: no sensitive teeth or gum

irritation. Affordable: recommended

retail price – R 790. Professional

Beauty special: R390 instead of R790

for a 30-minute once-off session /

R40 instead of R49 for our unique

instant whitening toothpaste. Become

a partner (corner package offer) for

R9,990 instead of R10,990.

Studex will demonstrate to salon

owners how offering a Studex ear-

piercing service can increase both

income and

foot traffic into

their business.

Every easy

to use and

extremely hygienic,

Studex systems can

be used for belly- and

nose-piercing, as well as for

ear-piercing. Studex looks forward

to meeting both new and existing

customers at the show.

Enhance your eyelashes by up to

300% with WOW 3D Fibre Lashes.

These lashes are made from 100%

natural tea tree fibre and beeswax.

Requiring only a five-minute

application, the lashes last all day and

can be removed with facial cleanser

and water. PB

For the first time ever, Professional

Beauty and Nail File will host the

Educationail Workshop in Durban, on

12 June at the Durban ICC.

Supported by ITEC, the

Educationail Workshop will

expose delegates to tutorials from

leading brand names on the latest

developments in the nail industry

and how to grow your business.

All delegates will receive

attendance certificates.

To book your seat go to

www.probeauty.co.za

For more information about Professional Beauty Durban, visit: www.probeauty.co.za.

EDuCATIoNAIL WoRkShoP

Page 39: Pro Beauty May 2016

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Page 40: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

38 sponsored editorial

By the end of summer our

skin is naturally darker

than it was in winter. This

is not just because it has

been exposed to sun.

We naturally secrete more hormones

that prompt our skin to become darker

in summer. That means that our skin is

somewhat more sun-resistant and at the

same time, the chances for sun damage

are diminished because the sun is moving

towards the north and will soon cross

from the Tropic of Capricorn to the

Tropic of Cancer. This means that we get

less exposure to UVB and less chance to

make vitamin D. Because the skin is more

pigmented, it blocks UVB rays, which

means that we can make less vitamin D.

However, the body still needs vitamin D.

At the same time, the chances of UVA

damage remain basically the same because

UVA easily penetrates the atmosphere

(and even clouds and windows) and can

damage what little vitamin D we have

made. It definitely also damages the

vitamin A in the skin. Therefore we have

two important deficiencies that can occur

when we get to autumn. This is particularly

important because these two vitamins play

a large part in supporting your immune

system and autumn is a good time to make

sure that your blood and skin levels of

vitamin A are kept high in preparation for

the miseries of winter that follow. You will

also need antioxidants to fine-tune your

immunity.

What can we do to optimise the condition of our skin and body in autumn?I believe that this is a particularly good time

to make sure that you have the highest

levels of vitamin A and D in your skin and

your body. I recommend taking vitamin

A and D supplements orally to fortify the

skin and then one should also use topical

vitamin A and antioxidants. I recommend

the highest levels that are suitable for

your skin. I particularly love using Environ

C-Quence Serum and Crème and the

higher Vitamin A dosage level products

within the Original range. Some people like

Caring for your skin and body in autumnBy Dr Des Fernandes

Page 41: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

39 sponsored editorial

to add the Environ Original Range Moisture

Gel, which adds hydration and helps to

raise the vitamin A levels. One’s body still

needs attention because of exposure to

the sun, so at night I like to use the vitamin

ACE Body Oil on my arms, chest and legs.

The second half of autumn is also the

time to consider if you should have a series

of Cool Peels that may extend into winter.

Environ’s Cool Peel technology is like no

other, as we have pioneered the production

of Acid creams and thick gels. The Environ

Cool Peels are safe and effective; they

have a unique method of application. As

the peels are applied, water molecules

evaporate, causing a cooling effect or

sensation on the skin, unlike conventional

peeling. Your Qualified Environ Skincare

Therapist will be able to analyse your skin

and recommend the best treatment option.

Autumn is the time to support the skin

so that one can enter winter with healthier

skin and build it up in preparation for

spring. Remember that daily supplements

constantly help you to feel and be at your

best. PB

Dr Des Fernandes is a world renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care which is found in more than 70 countries world wide. He was a pioneer in the use of vitamin A in skin care formulations.

If you would like to pose a question to Dr Des Fernandes, please email the editor on [email protected]

RECOMMENDATIONS:Retail:Ionzyme C-Quence Serums and

C-Quence Crème, C-Quence Energising

Masque

Environ Retinol Serums – Intensive

Vitamin A Serums are part of the unique

Environ step-up system. They may assist

to improve the overall appearance of the

skin; and may be used once the client is

comfortable on higher levels of Environ

Vitamin A moisturisers.

Evenescence Range – after extensive

research, these products (Clarifying lotion

and C- Boost) were formulated to assist

with improving the appearance of uneven

skin tone; and work synergistically with

the Environ Vitamin A moisturisers and

Environ Sunscreens

Revival Masque – a unique combination

of revolutionary ingredients that assist

with making the skin look more luminous,

smoother and revitalised

Vit A & D Supplements

Vit A, C, E Body Oil

Professional Treatments:Environ Cool Peel treatments

Environ DF Facials – a serious result

driven treatment; using a combination

of Low Frequency Sonophoresis and

Pulsed Iontophoresis to enhance further

product penetration. This treatment is

unique to Environ, as it was designed

and pioneered by Dr Des Fernandes.

Best used in combination with Environ

homecare products.

Autumn is the time to support the skin so that one can enter winter with healthier skin and build it up in preparation for spring.

Page 42: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

40 acne treatments

Causes of acne remain the

same throughout one’s

life, according to Dr

Janine Ellenberger (MB,

ChB, MMedSc), founder

of GR8/SKN.

“There are three major causes of

acne, namely hormonal fluctuations,

hyperkeratinisation (an excess

of keratin in the epidermis), and

an overgrowth of the p.acnes bacteria

on the skin.

“Approximately 85% of people

between the ages of 12 and 24

experience at least minor acne. It is

worst in boys between the ages of

15 to 24. Girls tend to develop acne

around puberty, but often it gets

worse in their 20s and can last until the

menopause – the hormonal lifespan

in other words. Adult acne is mostly

prevalent in women and the major

cause is hormonal fluctuation.

“There are factors which can make

acne flare-ups worse, such as using

the wrong make-up, emotional stress,

diet, overexposure to the sun and using

skincare products that can aggravate

breakouts,” explains Ellenberger.

She notes that when treating adults

with acne as opposed to teenagers,

adults require more moisture as they

get older, because the barrier function

of the skin is compromised. “It is

important to include essential fatty

acids in the moisturising routine, and

peptides are a good addition as they

help with collagen production and

reduce the risk of acne scarring.”

Fermented organic rye QMS Medicosmetics products

indicated for acne include Intravital

Plus, which is suitable for adult and

younger skins. The Dermabrasive

Gel is offered as a peeling option for

problematic skin, as the fermented

organic rye in the formulation

improves the skin’s good bacteria.

The QMS Medicosmetics Med

Set is recommended for over-30s

with problematic skin. This product

contains fermented organic rye as

well.

The scourge of many a teenager’s life, as well as a good portion of adults, the unsightly breakouts on the face caused by acne can result in anxiety, reduced self-esteem and depression, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

The ‘pizza-face’SYNDROME

Page 43: Pro Beauty May 2016

41

Professional Beauty May 2016

acne treatments

Also recommended are the Deep Cleansing Lotion

and the Freshening Tonic, a complementary cleansing

combo for improving the skin’s acid mantle that aids

in fighting infection.

Three-in-oneUrsula Hunt of DermaFix defines acne as the retention

of dead skin cells and the excessive proliferation of

additional cells.

“To make matters worse, these cells accumulate in the

pores of an acne-susceptible family,” she continues.

“The DermaFix product range consists of skincare

products that include MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic

Cleanser and MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic Toner, which

assist with acne improvement. These two products

contain a key ingredient known as Mandelic Acid, a

three-in-one multipurpose formulation that assists

with reducing inflammatory, pustular, comedonal and

papular acne. Gram-negative folliculitis (inflammation

in the hair follicle) also shows improvement with the

application of Mandelic Acid.”

She notes that Vitamin A, in the form of Retinol, has

long been used with success in assisting acne-prone

skin. “However, use of this form very often leads to

severe skin irritation and sensitivity. MD Prescriptives’

Vitamin A Propionate provides a less antagonistic

approach. Used nightly, it assists

with the removal of the abnormal cell

thickening within the inside lining of

the follicle, thereby reversing the

process of keratin retention, often

associated with the blocking of

pores leading to comedogenic build

up and pustular lesions.

“MD Prescriptives’ Acne Solutions

offers anti-bacterial properties, along

with providing anti-inflammatory

benefits through the inclusion of

Niacinamide, Blackcurrant Leaf

Extract and Raspberry Leaf Extract.

Acne Solutions actively works to

reduce sebum oxidation and fight

bacterial proliferation, as well as

calming redness and irritation. This

formulation can be used during the

day and the combination of benefits

can be seen within days of use.” R

Page 44: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

42 acne treatments

Complex formulationThe experts at Babor add that the

common causes of acne, apart from

hormones, are genetics, stress, diet,

poor skincare, exercising with make-

up on, allergies and medication.

The Babor Pure range contains

Farnesol, which helps to inhibit

bacterial growth and reduces

any redness. Also included in the

formulation is Phytosphingosines,

for strengthening the skin’s own

protective lipid barrier, and horsetail

for its astringent effect and to promote

regeneration. A complex of yeast,

Vitamin B and niacinamides helps to

regulate the oil balance of the skin.

Regulating and balancingAfter many years of research, Dr Gobac

has developed a comprehensive and

effective way forward in the treatment

and management of acne, which

combines professional treatments

with a simple home care routine.

Says Dr Robert Gobac: “The Dr

Gobac TX professional and home care

products are designed to regulate and

balance the skin and its protective

lipid layers, reducing inflammation,

eliminating infection and enhancing

the healing process.

“By introducing actives like

Sphyngo-ceryl and Vitamin A

palmitate, the exact quantity and

quality of sebum production, one

of the main factors in developing

acne, is regulated and the lipid layer

protection is enhanced. We pay

particular attention to protecting the

skin against free radicals, one of the

main culprits in the ongoing battle

against acne. Unicontrazone and

Niacinamid (also known as Vitamin

B3) are just some of the actives used

to prevent inflammation and enhance

the healing process.”

All Dr Gobac TX products contain

extracts of Dragon’s Blood, one of the

most crucial actives used during the

cleansing, extraction, protection and

treatment phases.

“This ingredient has an exceptional

proven track record. It acts as a natural

anti-microbial agent, eliminating

staphylococcus and other micro-

organisms thus preventing infection,

inflammation, ulcers and scar

formation, as well as pigmentation

during the healing process,” explains

Gobac.

Natural plant extractsKalahari’s Phyto-

Correct Serum

can be applied to

specifically target

blemishes, or it

can be layered

under the daily

moisturiser to

enhance and purify

the skin’s natural

appearance.

Says Kalahari

founder, Carina Franck: “It is a

compound of highly effective

natural plant extracts that gently, yet

effectively, target problematic skin

conditions. The anti-inflammatory

properties of the Tea Tree and Aloe

Vera extracts calm the skin, while

neutralising the bacteria involved

in the development of acne. This

soothing serum will leave your skin

feeling purified and revived.”

The Kalahari Phyto-Film Toner is a

treatment toner that will leave a highly

effective film of botanical ingredients

on the skin.

Fresh on the marketNew to South Africa, the BB Cream/

Blemish Balm from Dr Schrammek

derma.cosmetics assists with a

variety of skin problems and provides

Pic

: Dre

amst

ime

Page 45: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

43 acne treatments

coverage, protection and an even,

flawless complexion.

Says Victoria Wagner of Evolution

Cosmetic: “Originally Blemish Balm

was used to soothed stressed skin and

conceal redness after a Dr Schrammek

Green Peel treatment, thanks to

its anti-inflammatory and calming

effect, but as soon as the cream was

introduced, it soon became clear that

Blemish Balm conceals impurities,

evens out redness, refines pores and

has a soothing and regenerating

effect.”

Local prideProudly developed in South Africa, the

trademarked Skin Doctors Resurfacing

Acne Treatment incorporates a mini

micro-dermabrasion phase, with its

advanced exfoliating crystals gently

removing the dull, lifeless top layer of

skin to reveal fresh, resurfaced skin.

Thereafter a BHA (Beta-Hydroxy

Acid) and AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid)

cocktail is applied, which assists with

treating comedones and millia, whilst

brightening the complexion The

treatment also assists to reduce the

appearance of visible pores and acne

scarring. It is followed by a stem cell-

boosting mask and finished off with

multifunctional day cream.

Also from Skin Doctors, T-Zone

combines four ingredients ideal for

skin that is prone to oiliness and acne

in the T-Zone area. The innovation is

in the peptide technology used to

combat problem prone skin. R

Page 46: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

44 acne treatments

Vitamin AQanita Jacobs, Environ’s education

manager, would advise an acne

client to start with Environ Vitamin A

moisturisers as soon as possible.

“Should the client be using Vitamin

A medication, orally or topically, or any

medication to treat their skin, we may

adapt the skincare regime and product

recommendations. We recommend

that the client then proceeds with a

course of Environ Cool Peel and DF

treatments, supported with Environ

homecare such as a suitable cleanser

and toner, Vitamin A moisturiser

(following Environ’s unique step-up

system) and RAD SPF 15.

“In addition to this the Colostrum

Gel and Balancing Masque would

be ideal options to boost the skin’s

immunity and healing processes.

We would also recommend micro-

exfoliation and intense hydration

respectively,” states Jacobs.

Anti-inflammatoryJacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes

that when treating acne, one must be

able to eliminate inflammation. “By

doing so one is more than half way to

eliminating and then controlling the

problem. Irritation and inflammation

also lead to hyperpigmentation, often

seen in young acne sufferers.

“The red, inflamed and swollen

skin of an acne sufferer can be

reduced dramatically and very

quickly with new technology, both

natural and biomimetic (synthesised

and mimicking nature) actives that

provide maximum efficacy without

side effects.”

Faucitt advises therapists to look

out for the following ingredients:

Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), Vitamin

B Complex, Vitamin C; Acnacidol (a

synthesised biomimetic version of

a hydroxyl acid naturally present in

Royal Jelly); Sepicontrol (Capryloyl

Glycine, Sarcosine and Cinnamomum

Zeylanicum Bark Extract); Meadow-

sweet; Biomimetic Tripeptide Peeling

(Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine

Acetate); Black Tea; Dermasensitive

(Octyldodecyl Myristate (and)

Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract); Nano

technology Centella Asiatica Extract;

Yeast Beta Glucan; Passionflower;

Masterwort; and Salicylic Acid.

RégimA’s ‘Turbo Cosmetic’ regime

combines five new technologies. “This

comprises either a serum or cream

containing Meadowsweet, which

helps normalise peaks in testosterone

and regulates sebum secretion. It is

particularly beneficial for hormonal

breakouts. Our Techno-5 Resurfacer

has proven to be an excellent anti-

acne product,” explains Faucitt.

‘Moody’ skinBy recognising that everyone’s skin has

a unique mood and that not everyone

responds to the same products and

treatments, Juliette Armand’s range of

personalised skincare offers tailor-

made solutions and a wide variety of

offerings to treat all skin moods.

Included in the Juliette Armand

range are: Clarifying Lotion; Clarifying

Foaming Wash; Clarifying Mask; Argile

Scrub Mask; Lipocontrol Hydra Gel;

and Clarity Therapy Cream.

Clean awayDermalogica Clear Start was created

specifically for teenagers and

young adults and utilises medicated

ingredients and soothing botanicals

to deliver real results.

The Skin Soothing Hydrating Lotion

is a lightweight moisturiser that

addresses dehydrated and breakout-

irritated skin. Moisturising, plant-

based Squalane softens and nourishes,

while hyaluronic acid provides instant

relief to skin dehydration. Gentle

botanicals including ginger, orange

and grapefruit soothe and protect the

skin.

Dermalogica’s Blackhead Clearing

Pore Control Scrub contains purifying

bentonite clay, which absorbs excess

oil and debris from skin, and helps to

control shine. Refreshing botanicals

Page 47: Pro Beauty May 2016

45

Professional Beauty May 2016

acne treatments

reinvigorate skin. Microbeads scrub away, clogging

dead skin cells and deep cleaning pores and blackheads,

leaving the skin clear and smooth. It is formulated

with gentle botanicals including Tea Tree, Menthol and

Meadowsweet, known to soothe and cool skin.

Breakout Clearing Emergency Spot Fix is a powerful

concentrated gel that is applied directly onto individual

breakouts. Benzoyl Peroxide kills breakout-causing

bacteria deep within pores. Seven gentle botanicals,

including Camellia Sinensis, Lavender and Tea Tree,

are included in the formula for their ability to calm skin

irritation and redness.

Laser & IPLsThe Hitech Group offers

active acne clearance

treatments in the

form of Viora systems

from Medilase and

Lumenis IPL (Intense

Pulsed Light) from

Hitech Lasers, as well

as laser and IPL acne

scar treatments from

Lumenis.

Viora, an Israel-based

company, developed its

trademarked Smooth

protocol, which delivers

results through the

use of multiple devices

and more effective

combination protocols.

Viora’s IPL and laser light therapies kill acne bacteria,

and decrease inflammation. Specifically, Viora’s Smooth

reduces the formation and appearance of blemishes,

while natural active antibacterial ingredients help

prevent bacterial culture. This holistic approach was

developed specifically for use with Viora’s Infusion,

providing professionals with a fresh approach to skin

care.

The Lumenis non-ablative acne solution is treatment

with its trademarked ResurFX, which, according to

Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier, is the only true fractional

non-ablative technology available.

“Unlike other fractional technologies, ResurFX

only needs one pass to be effective, saving time and

protecting the patient’s skin,” she continues. “ResurFX

uses a 1565nm fibre laser and a very advanced scanner,

which enables the user to choose from more than 600

combinations of shape, size and density options, for

optimal treatment results.

“The CoolScan scanner uses a proprietary algorithm

that controls the placement of each fractional spot ad

this protects the tissue from heat accumulation and

overheating. For skin protection and patient comfort,

the ResurFX hand piece is equipped with continuous

contact cooling. Since the treatment does not involve

tissue evaporation or ablation, treatment downtime is

significantly reduced, which is also why it is preferred

over ablative treatments by many patients.” PB

Care for Compromised Skin

RESURFACINGBALM

INTENSIVESCAR

REPAIRINTENSIVESCAR

REPAIRRESURFACING

BALM

Page 48: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus – lip treatments

46

Lip serviceSMooTh SooThEMongongo Lip Butter

from Kalahari is rich in

essential phyto fatty

acids and vitamins.

This soothing lip butter

nourishes dry lips and

prevents chapping.

The Mongongo seed

butter offers natural

protection against

harmful UV rays

and leaves the lips

noticeably smoother.

011 656 1122

Mini treatmentEve Taylor has announced the launch of its mini

treatment – Perfect Pout! Lip Treatment. This

treatment focuses on the often neglected lip area to

smooth, soften, hydrate, plump and protect. It uses

newly developed specialised techniques combined

with highly active natural-based products.

+44 (0)1733 260161

BiG BoostJuliette Armand’s Lip Facial

is designed to treat your

client’s delicate lip contour.

The treatment comprises

hyaluronic acid to help plump

up the lips and minimise

the appearance of fine lines.

A duo mask combination

instantly hydrates and boosts

circulation, leaving the client

with satin-soft, lush lips.

011 033 0500

In an era when the ideal mouth contour is considered to be the lips of movie star Angelina Jolie, clients are looking for products that will improve the fullness of the mouth area, and leave the lips feeling smooth and silky.

Page 49: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

47 product focus – lip treatments

All a-glowGlo-minerals Lip Plumper

is infused with spheres

of Marine Collagen

Atelocollgen. These

spheres work to plump

lips by trapping water

and swelling, thus

providing volume to the

skin’s structures. Pepper-

derived Capsicum Extract

stimulates lips, resulting in

a ‘tingling’ sensation and

rosy tint.

021 552 6999

Plumped upSuitable for fine lines on the lips and

pronounced wrinkles around the mouth area,

Babor’s Derma Cellular Anti-Wrinkle Booster for

Lips works by plumping lip volume internally and by

stimulating the skin’s own hyaluronic acid synthesis,

leaving the lip area visibly smoother. It is ideal for

use in conjunction with subcutaneous injections.

011 467 0110

Instantaneous EFFECTLonsdaleite Instant Lip Plumper

immediately delivers a super boost and

alleviates lines and crinkles around the

mouth. The product uses advanced

hyaluronic spheres and includes a

peptide to extend and increase the

smoothness of the lips and volume

over time, by stimulating an increase in

collagen and hyaluronic acid.

082 958 1872

All in the contoursPhytomer’s Youth Contour

Smoothing Eye and

Lip Cream is an ultra-

moisturising, creamy textured

product that plumps the lip

area and smooths wrinkles.

It contains Dilsea Carnosa

extract, Marine Pro-Collagen,

Pheohydrane (Laminaria

digitata) and Phytomer’s

flagship ingredient, Oligomer.

011 486 4904

Page 50: Pro Beauty May 2016

Date:28 & 29 August 2016

Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre

Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 18h00Monday 10h00 – 17h00

Register now for your fRee ticket and save the R250 entry fee.

Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair

Increase your knowledge

• Stage Demos • Hair Competition • Exhibitor Demos✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions

Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed.Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top ndustry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creatively translate in a successful business.

the event for your professional hair business

www.salonafrica.co.za

the time for cHAnge is here!

inspiring

today’s

hairdresser

SA hair ad.indd 1 2016/04/19 11:52 AM

Page 51: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

hair news

49

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news

from the hair front.

the thicker, the betterNioxin’s Diaboost Thickening

Xtrafusion Treatment is an

advanced leave-in treatment

that can be used to increase

the thickness of each strand

of hair, making your mane

more manageable and full.

It also protects your hair

against damage. This product

recently won Best Hair

Treatment at Ireland’s Xposé

Beauty Awards.

0860 104 109

hold fastMoroccanoil Luminous Hairspray

Strong is a flexible hairspray for

building long-lasting styles, with a

movable yet strong hold. Its lightweight

and workable finishing formula blankets

hair in a reflective shield of shine that

fights fizz and humidity yet brushes out

easily and leaves no sticky residue.

011 305 1600

Frizz be gone!Inoar’s Argan Oil Thermaliss is a

chemical-free, de-frizzing balm that

works to make hair increasingly

straight, while protecting it from

heat styling. Infused with Inoar’s

Argan Oil, known for its anti-frizz

effect, frequent use of Thermoliss

guarantees hair with intense shine

and progressive results.

012 346 1721

In synergyThe SynergiCare Instant Smooth range from Itely Hair

Fashion is specifically designed to tackle the causes of

frizz, whether the hair is naturally coarse or has a curly

texture that is prone to frizz. With Instant Smooth, hair

looks and feels visibly different after a single application.

011 305 1600

Page 52: Pro Beauty May 2016

Enhances the breast shape! Natural and feminine!This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fi t that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fi ts up to a F cup).

VOTED 2006 – 2010BODY WRAP OF THE YEAR

• Brings Relief to tired legs – ideal for fl ights.• All sheer double cover Lycra.• Full boarded fl at seams cotton gusset.

AVAILABLE IN NUDE, NERO, BRONZE AND ASFALTO (S-M-L-XL)

USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CONTOUR RESULTS

BODY SHAPERS-M-L-XL-XXL- XXXL

CONTOURINGHEALTH BELTS-M-L-XXL

The all day, everyday solution to quick and easy centimetre loss and body contouring.The Neoprene garments focus on specifi c parts of the body. Contouring health belt consists of 16 magnets sewn into the superior quality Neoprene lycra.

USE WITHPATRICIA CLARKEGELTO SPEED UPCENTIMETRE LOSS.

THONG HIGH WAIST CONTROL G -STRING S-M-L-XL

BODYSUIT S-M-L-XL

MIDI SHAPER 44820 S-M-L-XL

CAPRICE KNEE SHAPER 44850 S-M-L-XL

CENTRO SHAPEWEAR GARMENT S-M-L-XL

Anti Cellulite all day Firm Body Contour. Seamless, Latex Spandex ultralight shapewear. Hygienic. ALLERGY FREE! Used by plastic surgeons after surgery. USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CENTIMETRE LOSS.

STRAPLESS UNDERWIRE BRA SLIP S-M-L-XL

LOSE 18-80CM

IN 90 MINUTES

WITH THE AMAZING BODY WRAP

For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • [email protected] • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032

PC

FP

0401

3

VEST MID-SLEEVES-M-L-XL

ARM COMPRESSION MID-SLEEVES-M-L-XL

CONTOURING HEALTH BELT 30CMS-M-L-XL-XXL

• Centimetre loss is due to the combination of the Patricia Clarke contouring gel & bandages.

• The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients contained targets the toxins in the adipose tissue.

• It breaks down the fatty tissue which is absorbed through the lymph duct and finally passes through the body.

• The active ingredients in the contouring gel work in synergy to improve the textureof the skin, helping to avoid a spongy appearance.

• Home care garments used in conjunction with the body contouring gel offersamazing centimetre loss.

CALL USFOR MORE

INFO & AVAILABLE

SIZES

�S�I�M�O�N�E� �P�E�R�E�L�E� �–� �A�N�D�O�R�A� �B�R�A

Page 53: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

51 body detox treatments

Taking the cureInfinitely preferably to going on a juice diet for several days at a time in order to rid the body of toxins, in-salon body detoxifying treatments should be an essential item on any treatment menu and a fairly easy sell to clients, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Typically body detox treatments

include some sort of exfoliation

to rid the skin of dead cells,

followed by the application

of active ingredients, usually

in the form of mud or a wrap. Sometimes

a massage that focuses on the pressure

points within the body is included, to help

eliminate environmental and dietary toxins.

Hydro facilities such as steam or baths can

be incorporated if the treatment is offered in

spas. Body detox treatments are also often an

important part of slimming programmes and

cellulite treatments.

Lilian Terry International (LTI) has two

specific detox products – its Detoxifying Body

Wrap as well as the Detoxifying Bath Oil.

Says LTI general manager, Carli Argirova:

“Our Detoxifying Body Wrap has been

designed to accelerate the removal of

foreign chemicals such as air pollutants,

chemical pesticides and to decrease

the damaging effect of free radicals. It’s

an excellent treatment for people who

are exposed to high levels of stress and

pollution and those who suffer from lack

of energy due to unhealthy lifestyles and

lack of exercise.”

Key ingredients include sun-dried,

naturally pigmented yellow clay rich

in copper; sulphur and iron. These

minerals improve circulation and oxygen

penetration to connective tissue, maintain

and improve the health of blood vessels

and accelerate the excretion of toxic

wastes. R

Page 54: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

52 body detox treatments

The LTI Detoxifying Bath

Oil stimulates the process of

detoxification, whilst moisturising the

skin. Containing essential oils such as

grapefruit and lavender, this product

comes in both a professional size for

use in spa/jet baths, as well as a retail

size for clients to take home and enjoy.

From the desertKalahari’s Baobab Phyto Acid

Treatment includes the company’s

new Phyto Compounding System,

which provides exceptional skin

detoxifying results by incorporating

100% organic, unadjusted Phyto Acids

and Vegetable Enzymes.

“The client will experience

visible brightening, firming and

detexturisation with these highly

effective professional treatments,”

says Kalahari founder, Carina Franck.

“For home care following the

treatment, we offer Phyto Facial Mist,

which is fortified with Cell Detox,

a new phyto-effective extract that

assists your skin’s natural detoxifying

processes, while giving a natural boost

to tired-looking skin. Together with

our superior botanical extracts,

this refreshing mist will improve

your complexion, restore radiance and

reduce the signs of premature ageing.”

Body wrapThe technique of body wrap or

bandaging is one of the simplest

methods of body detoxification,

according to Christelle Newsum,

senior consultant at Symphony

Health cc T/A Patricia Clarke.

“This technique is used to

distribute the special plant-based

Patricia Clarke Contouring Gel to the

problem areas,” says Newsum. “The

body is then bound with our special

compression bandages. After a period

of 60 minutes, the gel permeates the

connective tissues, activates lymphatic

drainage and stimulates circulation.

We stress to the therapist that this

is not a ‘sweat it out’ treatment, nor

is it the type of slimming cure where

the weight is fleetingly lost through

profuse perspiration and regained

after a glass of water. In fact, we urge

clients to drink plenty of water after

the treatment as this assists in further

detoxing of the body.”

She explains that the body

remains dry throughout the wrap

treatments and, as intracellular fluids

are mobilised, the diuretic properties

assist in the elimination of cellulite

and toxins. Flab and ‘soft fat’ respond

particularly well to wrapping since,

depending on the client’s resilience,

the flesh can be bound very tightly

to ‘lift’ the sagging part of the body.

There is no need for the client to

shower after the treatment.

“The success of the system is due

to the properly formulated suspension

of specially selected elements and

plant extracts which complement

each other and act in synergy to

bring about 18-80 centimetre loss in

60 minutes. The centimetre loss is

an overall loss as measurements are

taken from the bust through to the

ankles. The Patricia Clarke Contouring

Gel contains 27 different plant

extracts with strengthening, diuretic

and stabilising properties.

“Our compression bandages are

elasticised and fasten with a Velcro

attachment. Compression bandages

are very useful for reducing swelling;

these bandages are made in different

sizes to accommodate different parts

of the body. Compression bandages

reduce swelling by aiding your veins to

return excess fluid to your circulation.”

Exfoliating energyMatsiMela Home Spa believes in the

benefit of exfoliation and has designed

specific exfoliation products to be

combined in an array of treatments.

The focus is on removing dead skin

cells and increasing circulation and

lymphatic flow, as well as hydration.

The Exfoliating Mud Scrub contains

natural silica. Its small particle

size gives a smooth and polished

exfoliation and can even be applied

onto the face.

As its name suggests, the Sugar

Scrub is a blend of fine sugar, deeply

moisturising oils, essential oils and

fine sugar. It is excellent for an all over

body exfoliation.

Kalahari Salt Scrub contains pure

natural Kalahari salt and a decadent

blend of fragrance and essential oils

enriched with Jojoba oil. Excellent for

all over body exfoliation, the rough

Pic: Kalahari

Pic

: Sym

pho

ny H

ealt

h

Page 55: Pro Beauty May 2016

53 body detox treatments

texture of these pure salts stimulates

the superficial blood circulation and

removes dead skin cells. This promotes

cellular renewal and increased

penetration of the essential oils.

Following the all over body

exfoliation, the MatsiMela Pure Rose

Clay is recommended for its purifying,

nourishing and restorative action. It is

made from the finest quality clay and

is rich in minerals and trace elements

such as magnesium, iron oxides,

aluminium, manganese, silica and

calcium. The rose clay is sun-dried.

Pearls of wisdom Black Pearl has two detoxifying

masks in its arsenal. The Prestige G

Mask is a black mud mask containing

crushed Tahitian black pearl, hydrating

seaweed, and 27 mineral salts

incorporated with amino acids.

“This is applied to the skin and

works in three amazing ways with the

skin,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s

Michelle Roberts. “While applying

the mask it begins to exfoliate the

skin, as it is left upon the skin as a

mask. It is then removed with a semi-

precious Natural stone, which draws

out all impurities and leaves behind

a beautiful and fine Japanese Oil to

hydrate and nourish the skin.”

She notes that the Black Pearl

Thermal Mask incorporates ‘a

phenomenal ingredient’ called Zeolite,

which is integrated with drops of

water onto the skin. The zeolite and

water create a heat catalytic reaction,

allowing the skin to open and purge all

of the negative toxins and absorb the

healing Black Pearl ingredients.

Potent combinationJuliette Armand’s Detox Body Therapy

is a 60-minute treatment that aims

to decongest the body and improve

circulation, and to achieve maximum

results in slimming and cellulite

therapies. It combines the power of

seaweed and plant extracts. PB

Page 56: Pro Beauty May 2016

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Milk Solutions Pro Beauty Softening Socks Ad A4 for repro.pdf 1 2016/03/29 20:33

Page 57: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

I have heard a lot of people make

the comment that nails aren’t

rocket science, meaning that doing

nails is easy and requires only

common sense. Well, it may not be

rocket science in the true meaning of the

phrase, but there certainly is a science to

nails and there is so much more to it than

just providing a nail service.

It is not just your skill that is important

in ensuring you provide a good and

professional service, but most importantly

having a vast knowledge and a good, sound

understanding about everything that there

is to know about nails and nail products.

No matter if you’re doing basic

manicures, enhancements, nail coatings or

nail art, it all goes back to something I am so

passionate about and that is education. This

encompasses anatomy and what makes

up the natural nail, to the chemistry of nail

products.

Without the necessary knowledge and

understanding of how everything works, a

nail technician will not know what they are

working with, or how to perform a service

effectively to make sure their clients gain

maximum benefit from the service. Most

importantly, they also need to know how

to identify and solve problems with service

breakdown, should they occur. A successful

nail technician is not only someone who is

able to offer a professional and outstanding

service result, but should also be able

when the science behind nails is fully understood,

everything about what you do as a nail tech, and how you

do it, becomes clear, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

The science of NAILS

55 nails

R

Page 58: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

nails

56

to answer any questions and offer

expert advice and make the necessary

recommendations, so that a client is

able to maintain their service, nails

and skin in the best condition.

Incorrect terminologyUsing the correct terminology when

referring to anything to do with nails

and nail products is the first most

important step to being a successful

nail professional.

Here is what internationally

renowned product chemist, Doug

Schoon, wrote in an article for NAILS magazine, called, Where is the cuticle? “Some may believe it’s doesn’t matter

if we use the correct terminology, but

I don’t understand this thinking. One

of the hallmarks of any profession is

the use of proper terminology. Would

you want your blood drawn by a

nurse who didn’t know the difference

between your veins and arteries?

How much faith would you have in

a plumber who constantly referred

to the dishwasher as a toilet? Of

course, we would find it difficult to

respect them, despite their skills.

Using proper terminology prevents

confusion and misunderstanding, as

well as raises professional standards.”

Natural nail anatomyIt’s amazing how many people still

believe that the natural nail breathes

and that it can repair itself. If you

knew more about the anatomy of the

natural nail, you would know that this

is not true and that the nail unit is in

fact very intricate and quite complex

in its make-up and chemistry. The

nail plate is actually made of keratin

– a network of protein chains made

up of amino acids, which means

it is a non-living substance. The

nail bed to which the nail plate is

attached, is very much alive and is

full of capillaries and nerve endings

and has an important function,

but then again there is the matrix,

eponychium, hyponychium, proximal

nail fold, sole horn, cuticle and lunula,

which all have their own function

and purpose. Looking a little deeper

into what makes up the natural nail

Page 59: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

57 nails

and understanding the scientific

meaning of these terms can help

nail technicians take better care of

their clients’ nails.

Diseases & disordersSo often a fungal infection is

mistaken for a bacterial infection

and vice versa. Many other diseases

and disorders, which are thought to

be contagious, actually aren’t and

those which are, can sometimes be

handled with little care. If you don’t

know anything about this most

important topic you could end up

spreading a contagious condition

and causing potential harm.

Product science & technologyThrough the years product chemists

have constantly strived to innovate

and formulate products, improving

the science and technology behind

them, bringing them to the forefront

of the industry. Today’s product

technology is extremely high

tech and advanced, resulting in a

multitude of professional products,

which are unique and different from

one another, giving them the edge

in the industry.

Nail polishes, nail enhancement

systems and gel polishes are related

to the same chemical family and are

inevitably all made from acrylics, but

work on different principles when

bonding together. It is therefore

important to understand these

systems and what differentiates them

from one another and the process by

which they become a solid durable

coating.

With all nail coatings and

systems there are advantages and

disadvantages, however there are

ways and means of overcoming

them, as long as the nail technician

has the knowledge and skill to

identify problems and solve them

wthout causing harm or damage to

themselves or their clients.

Product application procedures & stepsProduct procedures, steps and

protocols are in place for a very good

reason, to guide the nail technician.

When learning certain techniques

be sure to stick to them and master

them as they are important in

ensuring you achieve the correct and

desired results.

Brand & product integrityMany nail techs make the fatal

mistake of thinking that all nail

products are created equal. There

are many good professional products

and brands available nowadays, but

don’t be mistaken in thinking that

you can mix and match products

from different brands. Products

and systems are manufactured

to be chemically compatible with

one another, so as to get the best

possible results. For example, when

using a base coat, nail polish colour

and top coat, they should all be from

the same brand. The same is true of

an enhancement system – you can’t

use liquid monomer from one brand

and polymer powder from another,

and the same goes for gels, which

are made specifically to be used with

either an LED or UV lamp.

Plenty of research goes into the

development of products in order

to get the best results, with each

having their own specific purpose

and unique qualities, all specially

formulated to complement and work

in synergy with one another.

After care advice & recommendationsYour clients know more than you

think, however, sometimes they think

they know what’s best for them,

which can prove challenging to deal

with. How you deal with the situation

is going to make all the difference in

how the client perceives you. As the

nail professional you need to portray

professionalism on every level. Don’t

guess or thumb suck information,

make sure your information is factual

and makes sense and is to the best

benefit of the service and client, and

never do anything which goes against

your professional know-how.

Nail services and products should

rarely cause problems no matter

what service is conducted, whether

natural nail care, nail enhancement

or nail coating services. Potential

problems can be avoided by

using high quality products and

proper procedures, according to

manufacturers’ instructions and

protocols. Remember to always set

a good example, by ensuring your

services are safe, sanitary and of a

high professional standard. A skilled,

knowledgeable and professional nail

technician can make all the difference.

There is still so much potential

for growth and advancement in

our industry and it is up to us as

professionals to stand together and

to collaborate to keep it a healthy

and professional one. It is everyone’s

professional responsibility to be

involved, informed and well educated

and to make sure that we carry that

message through.

For our industry to grow and

prosper we have to make sure we

stay up to date with growing trends,

techniques, advancement in product

technology and most importantly,

education.

In conclusion, if you know more

about your nail chemistry and the

science behind it, there is no doubt

that you will be able to continue

to provide the best and most pro-

fessional services to your clients. PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: [email protected]

Page 60: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

58 product news

In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products.

r

r

Classic serumUnlike cosmetic-grade skincare products, Crème

Classique’s new Advanced Anti-Ageing Cell

Repair Serum is infused with Matrixyl, which is

scientifically and clinically formulated to provide

skin with a long term anti-ageing solution. The

product is endorsed by respected Pretoria skin

specialist, Dr Hardie De Beer.

012 343 3981

Rousing relaunchDoctor Babor Repair Cellular

marks the first of the incredibly

impactful Dr Babor ranges

to be relaunched. It delivers

rapid, visible and measurable

results more effectively,

more precisely and more

innovatively than ever before.

This is thanks to skin research

at a cellular level. The Biogen

Plant extract strengthens each

single skin cell.

011 467 0110

r

over the rainbowRainbow Bath & Beauty has changed the

formulation of its salt body scrubs to contain 25%

shea butter, spelling out a more nourishing scrub

that is not overly abrasive. The sea salts used are

hand harvested and solar dried. Body scrubs are

available in vanilla, tea tree, rose, peppermint and

grapefruit and in three sizes.

074 379 9452

r

Concentrated retinolThe Exuviance Super Retinol

Concentrate from NeoStrata

was specifically created to defy

gravity and helps to firm and

smooth wrinkles and texture.

Time-release encapsulated pure

retinol combined with patented

NeoGlucosamine synergistically

supercharges the volumising,

firming and pigment-evening

effects.

011 545 9300

Page 61: Pro Beauty May 2016

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Page 62: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

What if I could

freeze your facial

muscles so that

your wrinkles

disappear, but I

do not inject a purified poison into

your lovely face? What if you were

still able to use your muscles for facial

expression … without forming lines?

Frotox (‘Iovera’ or ‘Coldtox’)

promises to do just that. When you

put your hand into a bucket of ice,

your fingers become numb and

hard to move – this is the effect of

extreme cold on muscles, also called

‘cryoneuromodulation’.

Smart scientists have bottled this

nifty effect into a pen-like device

that delivers an intense 30-second

‘cold jolt’ that shocks the nerve into

a numb state for up to four months.

Your muscles relax completely and

‘Abracadabra!’ wrinkles disappear

immediately, as opposed to purified

botulinum toxin, that takes between

four and 14 days to reach full effect.

Medical effectsThis cryoneuromodulation technology

has been used for many decades

in the medical field of neurology to

relieve chronic pain. It is, however, a

highly specialised procedure, and is

only administered by doctors with the

proper certification.

The device is FDA-cleared in the

US for treatment of headaches, and

in Europe it is being used off-label as

an anti-aging anti-wrinkle treatment

in the realms of plastic surgery and

aesthetic medicine.

The ‘nitty-gritty’ mechanicsThis pen-like device is loaded with a

liquid nitrogen cartridge before use,

and, at the touch of a button, the

circulation of nitrogen gas within the

device creates a precise-cold-zone at

the smart-needle tip, which is made

of closed-end needles, so nothing

comes out of it.

A TENS (Trans-cutaneous Elec-

trical Nerve Stimulation) machine is

used to pinpoint the target nerves,

before the precision-chill can be

administered to numb these nerves.

After the nerves are pinpointed,

a local anaesthetic (lidocaine) is

injected to numb the area and the

treatment probe is injected at each

marked site (an average of about four

on each temple) to zap the nerves

into submission.

Side effects So far, there has been no report

of long-term side effects or any

dangers from having the treatment.

As no toxins are used, this treatment

is predicted to be extremely safe.

Usual side effects associated with the

treatment are mostly short-lived, just

The CHILL drill Described as ‘The Ice wand’, Frotox is a toxin-free alternative to botulinum jabs, writes Dr Janine Olivier.

60 medical aesthetics

Page 63: Pro Beauty May 2016

61 medical aesthetics

Dr Janine Olivier obtained her MBChB in 2006, and has been practising aesthetic medicine and publishing in the field since 2009. Dr Olivier is a member of the American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine (AAAM) and is currently enrolled in a Masters of Medicine at the University of Pretoria in Chemical Pathology. She serves as medical advisor to HuidAesthetic in Waterkloof Heights, Pretoria. Dr Olivier has a clinical and scientific interest in the bio-molecular basis of the ageing process, chemistry of treatment modalities and cosmeceutical composition.

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

Ease of availability of approved product and certified medical practitioners.

Purified Botulinum Toxin A is versatile and can be injected into multiple sites of face and body, while Frotox offers limited treatment area options.

Botulinum neuromodulator has years of studies backing it up and a great track record in aesthetics and is safe when administered by a registered, certified medical doctor.

Botulinum Toxin Type A is

contraindicated in patients with

known hypersensitivity

including

aminoglycosides

or curare-like

compounds

Eaton-Lambert

syndrome or

Myasthenia gravis

Botulinum Toxin

Type A may interact

with medications that

affect neuromuscular

transmissions

If there is infection at the

proposed site of injection

who are pregnant

(pregnancy category B3)

Frotox vs Botox As the cool new option in the aesthetic

world, Frotox is a wonderful alternative

that gives you a choice when you want

to get rid of the nasties. But, in reality,

the quiet, transparent botulinum toxin

A still reigns supreme in the anti-aging

arena. It is easily accessible and most

aesthetic practitioners are certified

to provide this treatment, plus it is

affordable.

This faithful treatment is versatile

and can be injected into multiple

sites of the face and body, while

Frotox offers limited treatment area

options. Besides, we have years of

data and studies backing this purified

neuromodulator’s side-effects and

safety profile and US doctors are

always cautious and sceptical about

using anything without a proven track

record.

Mirror, mirror on the wall… So, I happily wave around my insulin

syringe with purified neurotoxin and

‘Abracadabra!’ wrinkles be gone! They

really are gone, even if it takes a few

days to show. It is easily available

and less precision is necessary when

delivering the toxin than the absolute

accuracy required with Frotox, which

can leave you in a numb nightmare

when the wrong muscle is frozen.

So, ‘chillax’! – we still have

botulinum jabs with a proven track

record and a practitioner near your

home. PB

WHO CANNOT TAkE BOTULINUM TOXIN INJECTIONS?

like any other aesthetics procedure

involving needles, and include

bleeding, bruising and swelling.

Will Frotox replace facial creams in the future? Frotox is a cool new choice for

people who don’t want to inject toxin

into their faces. It is aimed to help

people who want to reduce dynamic

forehead wrinkles without the use

of toxins, or those who cannot have

Botox due to other medical reasons.

However, it does not hydrate the

skin, clean the skin or introduce anti-

ageing cosmoceutical molecules

into the skin for a plump healthy and

glowing complexion, so the realm

of cosmeceuticals is still safe in my

opinion.

Argireline is the cosmeceutical

product that has been likened to

‘Botox in a tub’. Acetyl hexapeptide-3

is a synthetic anti-wrinkle cosmetics

ingredient. It is a peptide which is a

fragment of SNAP-25, a substrate

of Botulinum toxin (Botox). Acetyl

hexapeptide-3 is marketed as

Argireline by the Barcelona-based

research laboratory Lipotec. It is

the blending of these Argireline

peptides in creams that attempts to

decrease the visible effects of ageing

by reducing the deep wrinkles and

lines around the eyes and forehead.

Chemically, when you apply an

Argireline peptide to specific areas,

it inhibits the reactions that cause

muscles to move or contract. But

there are no long-term studies to

prove the efficacy of the product

and the effect, sadly, is brief and less

effective than the injections.

Frotox has an instant effect and is very cool... but Botox® still reigns supreme in the aesthetic world due to:

Page 64: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

62 saahsp

SAAHSP is a non-profit organisation, seeking to

further the health and skincare profession in South

Africa, as well as the interests of individuals engaged

in this profession and the public interest.

Process followed for Professional Body RecognitionIn 2011 SAQA (South African Qualification Authority)

introduced Professional Associations/Professional Bodies;

SAAHSP applied to represent the health & skincare industry.

On 19 March 2013, SAQA formally registered SAAHSP

as the Non-Statutory Professional body for the Beauty,

Health and Skincare and Somatology industry. SAAHSP

underwent its first successful midterm evaluation in 2015.

SAAHSP met the following criteria:1. A legally constituted entity with the necessary human

and financial resources, with staff and income to run a

viable organisation.

2. Governed by a constitution, statute or charter: in the

process of applying SAAHSP operated with a constitution

registered as a Section 21 Company, but submitted its

Company Memorandum of Incorporation, which was

accepted and filed on 29 October 2015.

3. Protect the public in relation to the service provided by

its members and the associate risk – SAAHSP has done

this for many years.

4. Develop, award, monitor and revoke professional

designations in terms of its own rules, legislation and/or

international conventions.

5. Submit data in terms of designated member to upload

onto the NLRD.

6. Set criteria, promote and monitor CPD.

7. Publish a Code of Ethics.

How were the designations confirmed and registered?Even though a designation is NOT a qualification, it has to

be linked to a qualification. A qualification is a programme

consisting of 120 credits or more (1 year).

After evaluating the various qualifications listed on the

NQF (National Qualification Framework), the following

designations were confirmed and registered:

Nail Technologist: 1 year of study or equivalent with

Portfolio of Evidence (Qualification 80646)

Cidesco Section South Africa

SAAHSP Professional Body recognition

Beauty Technologist: 1 year of study (Qualification

80646)

Beauty Therapist: 2 years of study (Qualification 58310)

Somatologist: 3 years of study and higher (3 year

Diploma/ BTEC Degree or Equivalent)

These designations are registered to SAAHSP

Professional Body AHSP849 – the official acronym used

for our Professional Body.

Any individual who uses these titles /designations

must subscribe to the Professional Body’s Code of Ethics

and Code of Conduct. As a Professional Body it is

SAAHSP’s statutory responsibility to police/guard/protect

the public and the profession as a whole. This will ensure

that our industry is self-regulatory and through the CPD

process, we will elevate our industry to the professional

standard that we pride ourselves on.

SAAHSP Professional Body Committee – call for expertsSAHSP has issued an Invitation to Stakeholders to form

part of the SAAHSP Professional Body.

This committee will ensure that the statutory functions

of the Professional Body so delegated by SAQA and

governed by the NQF ACT are adhered to. The committee

will comprise two SAAHSP Board members holding the

Professional Body Portfolio, Secretary, Education Bodies,

Employee Representative, Employer Representative,

Industry Representative and Governmental Representatives

from Services SETA, DHET, CHE and QCTO.

SAAHSP requires nominations for Employee,

Employer and Industry Representatives. Nominations will

be processed by the Professional Body board members,

Education Chair and Education Committee.

CLOSING DATE FOR NOMINATIONS: 29 April 2016

Contact Joelette Theron [email protected]

or 011 675 6519

South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SAAHSP Professional Body receives certificate from Jody Cedras SAQA (middle) accepted by Menna kleine (President) and Joelette Theron (Professional Body and Education Facilitator)

On 31 March 2016, sAAHsP, the official professional body for the industry since 2013, was awarded the sAAHsP Professional Body Recognition Certificate.

Page 65: Pro Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016

63

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Page 66: Pro Beauty May 2016

Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

64 classifieds

Chrissanthie Cosmetics Tel: (011) 593 3243 * e-mail: [email protected]: www.chrissanthie.com

Chrissanthie Eye Care Range by Dr ChrissieChrissanthie Eye Care Range is the only South African aftercare range

for eyelash/brow extensions and permanent make-up, designed by an

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Page 67: Pro Beauty May 2016

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Page 68: Pro Beauty May 2016