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Transcript of Pro Beauty May 2016
May 2016
www.probeauty.co.za
On the spot
Coldas ice
Lip-centric products
Acne treAtments
Engaging with your customers
Toxin aTTack!Body detoxing
Pucker up
ShowstopperProfessional Beauty
Durban preview
At your service
Frotox vs Botox
Vitamin A is an essential skin nutrient that has to be replenished every day for skin to appear healthier and more resilient. But when you combine vitamin A with other essential skin nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, that’s when you begin to see – and feel – beautiful skin through science.
REBORNBEAUTIFUL
your skin
www.environskincare.com
Vitamin A is an essential skin nutrient that has to be replenished every day for skin to appear healthier and more resilient. But when you combine vitamin A with other essential skin nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, that’s when you begin to see – and feel – beautiful skin through science.
REBORNBEAUTIFUL
your skin
www.environskincare.com
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.
Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com
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Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079
Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 [email protected]
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]
Art Director Ursula Wong 011 781 5970 [email protected]
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Printers ABC Press 021 5343210
Thus far, 2016 has been somewhat of a
turbulent year for South Africans. The
crippling effects of the drought, coupled
with the political fall-out from the Nkandla
controversy and severe petrol price hikes,
have all impacted negatively on the economy. So the going is
tough, to say the least. In this issue we provide tips for salon and spa owners on
how to beat these challenging times and ensure that their businesses thrive.
Technology in skincare constantly advances at a rapid rate, with beauty
brands’ R&D departments always on the hunt for revolutionary new ingredients,
making it difficult for therapists to keep absolutely up to date with the latest
developments. We provide some valuable insight into ingredients that are
trending right now, including bee venom, of all things.
Joanna Sterkowicz - Editor
Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news
49 Hair news What’s hot and happening in
the hair industry
58 Product news All the latest launches
62 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP
Business12 Ask the Experts All your questions answered
15 Insider Tracking the industry with
stats
17 Are we in for a bumpy ride? Keeping your business afloat
in a recession
21 The subtle art of retailing, merchandising and selling
Tips on the psychology of selling
22 Movers & shakers in the world of ingredients
Keeping up with skincare developments
Salon Focus24 Behind ‘The Mask’ Johannesburg salon turns 45
Spa Focus29 Customer Service Tips for engagement
32 Journey to wellness The Spa at Bushmans Kloof
35 Professional Beauty Durban What’s on at the show
60 Medical Aesthetics The chill drill
Nails55 The science of nails Sound understanding
Features40 The Pizza-face syndrome Acne treatments
46 Lip service Focus on products for the lips
51 Taking the cure Body detox treatments
Welcome
32
In this issue...
24
Introducing the newPharma Supplements Range from Environ
Life can “get under your skin” – the stress of city living, the e� ects
of the environment all have an impact on skin. The way we live shows
in our skin. So it’s not surprising that there’s a growing movement
to look after mind, body and soul, which results in an overall feeling
of well-being.
Wellness is a growing global mega-trend, fuelled by consumers who
want to live a good life, reach their full potential and look and feel
healthy for as long as possible. Consumers around the globe believe
that wellness is going to become more important in the future, and
are realising that what they put in shows.
The new Pharma Supplements Range from Environ assists in feeding
skin’s health and resilience from the inside out with a balanced
combination of vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants, helping to
strengthen skin from within and keep it looking healthier and more beautiful.
Strengthen Skin. Strengthen Beauty.
With the new Pharma Supplements Range.
strengthenyourBEAUTY
@Environ_GlobalEnvironSkinCarewww.environskincare.com
Introducing the new
ESSENTIALSKIN CARE
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
News in pictures
News
Says Orleans’s Sara Grave: “We
were looking for an exclusive
salon/spa brand with an
established international presence
and a strong NPD (New Product
Development) element, as we believe
this an important attribute, because it
prevents brand stagnation and keeps
product formulae at the cutting edge.
In addition, we wanted a brand with a
safe and effective chemical peel.
“Sothys is 70 years young and is an
independently owned family business.
The entire product development and
production process is in-house.”
Grave describes Sothys as a
All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
highly specialised brand that has always
stood out in terms of its extraordinary
commitment to research and innovation.
“Sothys claims its place as an avant-
garde beauty expert,” she continues.
“It is the creator of Digi-Esthetique, an
exclusive treatment method that,
with the essential partnership of
therapists, helps to transform it
into an unforgettable sensorial
experience.
“Many of the professional
treatments come in kit format, which
assists the salon/spa in optimising
productivity of its professional
stock.”
Genop Healthcare recently held its first official
launch for Exuviance, NeoStrata’s salon
skincare range, in Johannesburg to coincide
with the release of two Exuviance products
– Super Retinol Concentrate and Vitamin
C+ Antiaging Booster. Pictured are Genop’s
Dianne Rix and Kelly Jefferson.
Premium French skincare brand Sothys has appointed Cape Town-based Orleans Distributors as its exclusive distributor for South Africa.
Sothys appoints SA distributor
industry news
5
Babor celebrates 60 yearsLuxury German skincare brand Babor
marks its 60th birthday this year and has
launched the ‘Since 1956’ HY-ÖL Limited
Edition in celebration of this milestone.
Says Lynn-Ann Fuchsloch of Babor South
Africa: “When he created the classic HY-
ÖL cleanser in 1956, Dr Michael Babor laid
the foundations for the brand. As HY-ÖL
has been a best-seller for six decades, it is
fitting that the ‘Since 1956’ Limited Edition
set contains HY-ÖL and a Phytoactive for
the specific skin type.”
Fuchsloch points out that Babor has,
over the years, adhered to the philosophy of HY-ÖL, while at the
same time modernising it.
“To the present day, it contains natural oils and herbal extracts
to cleanse the skin. A more recent addition to the formula is quillaja
extract, which is obtained from the bark of the soap tree and acts
like a dirt magnet.
“The herbal elixirs in the Phytoactive have been complemented
by a detoxifying extract of Agrimonia eupatoria, which stimulates
the skin’s metabolism,” she explains.
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
6 industry news
6
News in briefSMP at RevitalabPretoria-based medical aesthetics clinic, Revitalab Face, Figure & Vigour, is now offering the Beauty Medical Tricopigmentation treatment.
Also known as Scalp Micro
Pigmentation (SMP), the
treatment is akin to a non-
permanent tattoo on the scalp that
gives the illusion of hair.
Revitalab’s Martelie Giezing
recently underwent training in Milan,
Italy, where the SMP brand originates,
having been founded by Milena Lardì.
Says Giezing: “There are three
applications of SMP – the density
effect, the scar camouflage and
the shaved effect. This system
tattoos dots on the scalp with a
0.5mm needle, which penetrates the
superficial layer of the dermis.
“The pigment is not the same as
used in permanent make-up, as that
pigment turns blue with time. Our
pigment is a universal brown ink,
The Global Mentorship Programme (GMP) has
appointed spa consultant Emmy Stoltz as its regional supervisor for Africa.
Says Stoltz: “The GMP initiative was created is the
uplift the spa industry as a whole through mentorship. It is done freely by
all and no payment is involved. This is the first time where mentors and
mentees from across Africa, Mauritius and Seychelles will be paired.”
The 2016 Global Mentorship Program consists of two 6-month sessions,
from January-June and July-December. For more information visit
www.mentorshipevidence.com/mentorship/global-mentorship-program
which is the same tone as the keratin
in hair. The treatment will last for two
years if there are no touch-ups. We
recommend touch-ups twice or three
times a year.”
Giezing aims to become an SMP
trainer and believes the system is ideal
for beauty salons and hairdressers.
GMP appoints regional supervisor
■ SA presence at Professional Beauty London: Three South African companies exhibited at the recent Professional Beauty London Show at Excel, namely Lilian Terry International, Zinplex and Marshall’s Traditional Healthcare (Lays Beauty).
■ Anesi to launch new products: Exclusive Beauty Solutions will introduce the latest anti-ageing products from the Anesi Laboratory on 23 May (Johannesburg), 25 May (Bloemfontein) and 30 May (Cape Town). Anesi’s Patricia Jurado and Esther Mendez will attend. Call Pearl on 011 791 4027 or e-mail [email protected]
■ 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions appoints distributor: MatsiMela Home Spa has been appointed the exclusive distributor for 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions, a high-quality range from the US which uses a unique application technique.
■ SkinMiles.com launches: Renowned aesthetician Dr Alek Nikolic has created the online retail store, SkinMiles.com, to showcase skincare products endorsed by both doctors and celebrities alike.
■ Top natural beauty trends: Fermented beauty products, raw processing, bacteria-rich formulas and waterless application are tipped to become some of the hottest natural beauty trends, according to a report by the Innovation Group, the trend forecasting arm of J Walter Thompson Intelligence.
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
industry news
News in pictures
by specialists
in Poland. The
treatment involves
applying liquid
nitrogen vapour
directly onto
the face, neck
and head to
stimulate collagen
p r o d u c t i o n ,
reduce wrinkles,
and brighten dark spots, among other
benefits.”
Pienaar notes that clients like having
the CryoFacials and SleekSculpt
treatment simultaneously. “We have
been testing the SleekSculpt treatment
for the last three months and have
Based in Cape Town, the recently opened CryoLiving treatment centre, believed to be South Africa’s first cryotherapy clinic, now offers CryoFacials and the SleekSculpt body treatment.
CryoLiving owner Eugene
Pienaar explains that
cryotherapy has been
around since 1978, where it
was first used in Japan for
the management of pain
and inflammation in patients
suffering from rheumatoid
arthritis.
He continues: “In America
it is now extremely popular
amongst people who are purely
using it for general wellness, as
it offers an incredible sense of
wellbeing. Cryotherapy employs
low temperatures for healing
and pain relief.
“Our CryoFacials have proved so
popular that we are buying additional
devices and will be adding rooms to
our facility quite soon to accommodate
the interest. They are performed by
Belinda Woods, who was trained
Dermalogica and Radiant Healthcare held a workshop in
Johannesburg at the end of February to showcase how
combining innovative technologies, devices and skincare
products can maximise revenue. Pictured are Danelle Landman,
Dr Adri Hofmeister, Menna Kleine and Bianca Bezuidenhout.
Nerina Moodley and Elizma Smith, the new
owners of Xtreme Lashes South Africa,
recently returned from Houston Texas, where
they underwent training (including marketing
and sales training) with the Xtreme Lashes
brand.
“This opportunity allowed us to bring
back the latest lash techniques, sales and
marketing skills to offer stylists, students and
educators around the country.
“We personally met with Jo Mousselli,
CEO and co-founder of Xtreme Lashes, and
she spent time with us sharing her vision
and passion for this brand. Elizma and I
also met with many of the key people in the
organisation and were given presentations
on different aspects of this business, as
well as tours around the company’s various
departments,” says Moodley.
Training to the ‘Xtreme’
Cryotherapy takes off
assisted clients in losing between
5cm and 23cm over the course of
five treatments.
“The treatment involves
cryostimulation, followed by the
application of active cosmetics
to the legs, hips and abdomen.
We then wrap the targeted areas
and administer a very detoxifying
compression therapy.”
CryoLiving currently has a
CryoSauna manufactured by
Polish company, Juka. Pienaar
continues: “Because the treatment
time is just three minutes, we can
easily handle groups of 30 clients
in a two-hour slot. And we can do
up to three slots a day.”
9
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
10 industry news
The Rain Forest Day Spa follows in
the footsteps of The Forest Day
Spa in Swellendam, The Cocoon
in Cavendish Mall and The Nest in
Willowbridge Shopping Centre.
Says Rain’s Juani Walters: “All of
our spas have an African feel, which is
encapsulated in their rituals, look and
natural products. The rituals include
treatments such as Rain Dance, The
Sole, Mother Africa, Metamorphosis
and the signature treatment, Elephant
Walk.
“Our new spa at Village Ridge
Boutique Hotel is a joint venture
between Rain and the hotel. The latter
forms part of the business interests
of one of Rain’s director’s, so it was a
natural choice for us. The hotel also
embodies the quality and luxury that
the Rain brand stands for.
“We created our own product range
for our spas called Biologie, made with
100% natural ingredients, as well as
organic wild-harvested oils.”
The Village Ridge Spa has two
single treatment rooms, a couples’
room and a luxury hand treatment
area. There is also a pool with a ‘chill
area’ and a sauna, as well as a fully
equipped gym.
According to Walters, there are
currently two full-time therapists
employed at the spa, with a third
to be added soon, as well as a
contractor.
Ronel Botes is the spa manager in
charge of all the Rain spas.
Walters notes that Rain is one of
the few companies in the beauty
and spa industries that is both Fair
Trade and Beauty Without Cruelty
accredited.
Rain, a leading eco-ethical bath and body product company based in Swellendam, recently added a day spa and store at The Village Ridge Boutique Hotel in Nieuw Muckleneuk, Pretoria.
BTL SA celebrates five yearsBTL Aesthetics SA recently celebrated
five years of operating in South Africa.
“We are delighted to announce
that a number of new doctors are now
offering our technologically advanced
treatments,” says the company’s
Branislav Sucansky.
These include Dr M Baholo of the
BioMolecular Rejuvenation Institute,
who has a background as a family
physician. From the same institute
is Bridget Hall, who has extensive
knowledge in biotechnology, used in
conjunction with health & wellness,
aesthetics, and slimming programmes.
Dr Jenni Irvine of The Aesthetics
Centre has been actively engaged in
the field of aesthetics medicine since
2006. In 2012 she was one of the first
South African Medical Practitioners ever
to have attained Board Certification
with the prestigious American Academy
of Aesthetic Medicine.
Founder of Zipp Health, Dr Gavin
Zipp, qualified as a medical doctor
in 1983. He focuses on general
family medicine and also practices
aesthetic medicine.
Dr M Baholo Bridget Hall Jenni Irvine Dr Gavin Zipp
It’s ‘raining’ spas!
AMPOULE CONCENTRATESFP
#oftencopiednevermatched
BABOR South AfricaTelephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: [email protected] • Website: www.babor.co.za
babor.co.za
SouthAfrica_Ampoulle_4er_Anz_210x297_GB.indd 1 03.03.16 13:43
BTL SA celebrates five years
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
12 ask the experts
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?
Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to
Ask the expertsWhat are the differences between steam rooms and saunas, and what are the health benefits of each?
The beneficial effects
of sweating have
been known for
thousands of years –
both the ancient Greeks
and Romans used the
therapeutic effects of
perspiration. Benefits
include relaxing, detoxing,
building up the immune
system and improving
blood circulation. The
sauna helps to reduce
stress, improve circulation and strengthen the heart.
Regular sauna bathing builds up the body’s immunological
powers and has a positive effect on metabolism. Influenza
infections, for example, are prevented effectively. The dry
heat in the sauna expands the blood vessels, leading to
increased blood flow, thereby contributing to an improved
supply of oxygen to the heart.
In steam baths, the high moisture content is particularly
beneficial for relieving sinus congestion and respiratory
problems. It is strongly recommended for asthma and
bronchitis sufferers. Breathing passages are soothed by the
increased moisture content in the nose, throat and lungs.
Asthma sufferers may choose the steam room, whilst those
with bad blood circulation may prefer a dry heat sauna.
However, anyone suffering from a medical condition should
consult their doctor before using either type of facility.
Louise Melunsky is the sales manager (Johannesburg) of Wellness Fitness Africa, which started in Cape Town in 2003. The business is now involved with the planning, supply and installation of equipment in major hotel spas and day spas.
Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
Emmy Stoltz started her career at Camelot International in 1998 as an enthusiastic student. Stoltz has been with MatsiMela Home Spa since 2011 as the Head of Spa Distribution.
How should I prepare a treatment room for a client?
The correct set-up of a treatment room is an
indication of your professionalism and dedication to
the client’s comfort.
Basics include:
• Yourareaneedstobespotless and uncluttered;
• Ensureconsultationforms, recommendation cards, etc. are at hand;
• Yourroommustbestocked with all the required equipment and products;
• Ensurethetemperatureiscorrect–haveaheatedbeanbag, electric blanket or cosy comforter in the colder months;
• Haveextratowels,blanketsandbolstersreadilyavailable;
• Ensurethebedispreparedforyourclientsinaspecialway to customise your spa;
• Musicmustbeonandsetatthecorrectlevel;
• Usedimmers,tracklighting,avarietyoflamps,candlesand different wattage light bulbs to create a relaxing ambience;
• Createasoft,customisedscentthroughcandles,diffusers or burners.
Additional touches:• Avanitywithsoapandlotion;
• Cosychangingspotwithachair,table,waterandflowers;
• Bowlundermassagebedface-holewithsomethingunique to your spa;
• Bathmatonfloor;
• HotCabbiwithheatedoil,compressorsand eye pillows.
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For more information contact Futurethis - South African sole distributor of skin689 & other fine [email protected] ∙ 0860 018 022 ∙ www.futurethis.co.za
Follow us, like us , love us and capture beautiful skin!
@futurethis_safuturethis futurethis_sa
Skin689® Creme Anti-Cellulite
stimulates collagen synthesis in
the skin, enhancing firmness &
elasticity, visibly improving the
appearance of cellulite.
SKIN689®
CREME ANTI-CELLULITE
LEAVES THE SKIN VISIBLY
SMOOTHER AND MORE TONED.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016 COMPARE WITH
MARCH 2015?
INSIDER SALONWhile Easter falling in
March benefitted the
spa industry, particularly
destination spas, it
seemed to have the
opposite effect on salons. Some salons said the public
and school holidays had a negative effect on turnover,
as did the current political and economic climate.
Others found that a lot of people went away over the
period. Retail sales were also down on the same time
last year, with clients becoming increasingly conscious
of what they spend on cosmetics.
As to discounting websites, one salon has success-
fully advertised on Groupon for certain treatments
such as fat freezing and laser hair removal, but would
never do so for facials, time-consuming treatments
or treatments that
use many products.
Another salon
never uses discount
websites, believing
that they cheapen the
profession.
Salons reported that
clients talking calls on
their cell phones in
the salon, particularly
during mani or pedi
sessions, is a great
annoyance, as are last
minute cancellations
and clients arriving
late for appointments.
The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT
ROOM OCCUPANCY
61%
83% BETTER
0% SAME
17% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016
COMPARE WITH MARCH 2015?
85% BETTER
10% SAME
5% WORSE
INSIDER SPAThe fact that the Easter
holidays fell in March this year
(as opposed to April in 2015)
had a very positive effect on
spas, 85% of which reported an
increase in treatment business.
Some spas also increased their
prices, which accounted in part
for an increase in revenue. One
spa benefitted from hosting a
corporate group and having
more therapists on duty per
day. Another spa found that
less people in their area went
on holiday this Easter, opting
to enjoy local activities instead.
Some therapists were able to
upsell their treatments.
Retail sales during March
2016 were also up. Reasons
cited were regular refreshment
training with product houses
and offering therapists bigger
incentives.
We asked spas if they offer
specials on discounting websites (such as
Groupon) and all spas said no, with some of you offering
monthly and seasonal specials
through social media and
emailers instead, and others
preferring to offer value rather
than discounted treatments.
One spa passes discounts
directly to their loyal spa
customers as a reward for
booking directly with the spas,
to build a customer base of
returning clients, as opposed
to a customer base of bargain
hunters.
The most annoying client
habit that spas reported is
clients is arriving late for
appointments, no shows and
not returning locker keys. PB
AVERAGE TREATMENT
ROOM OCCUPANCY
71%
7% BETTER
3% SAME
90% WORSE
Insider
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016 COMPARE WITH
MARCH 2015?
4% BETTER
6% SAME
90% WORSE
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016
COMPARE WITH MARCH 2015?
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in south Africa to track business in March 2016.
business trends
15
Stitching the aesthetic and medical worlds together.
Danné Montague-King (DMK) can enhance and prolong the results of fi llers and injectables and minimise post surgery downtime to days, not months.
DMK Pre and Post Operative Treatments work on the premise that the healthier skin functions are prior to surgery, the faster it heals and the better the result.
DMK Skin Revision Protocols can offer you:• New clientele with high levels of client retention and
satisfaction• A competitive advantage in an ever-changing market• Pre and Post Operative Treatment Protocols for medical
procedures• Alignment with medical practices• The benefi ts of high retail margins• International education and marketing support
With DMK Skin Revision Protocols.
BEFORE AFTER
Before and after images demonstrate one of many DMK signature treatments designed to assist healthy skin recovery.
www.dmkskincare.co.za
DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES
+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
business tips
17
The following sentence
is on the lips of every
South African you speak
to: “This is going to be a
tough year. We will have
to tighten our belts and watch the
finances.”
Now for business owners, this is
the last thing that you want to hear
consumers saying. But it really isn’t
the end of your business as you know
it, as there are ways to beat a tough
economy. Understanding how to do
this will be important.
According to Focus Economics
(an online economics platform),
South Africa recovered its economy
at the end of last year and started to
look positive, until we had political
unrest and one of the worst droughts
the country has experienced in years.
This doesn’t just affect politicians
and farmers – it affects the entire
country and all areas of business.
The general trading conditions
in South Africa’s retail market have
remained challenging in the first
quarter of 2016, with more and more
consumers choosing where to spend
their money versus just buying their
usual goods. Wherever they choose
to spend is what they value and your
Are we in for a bumpy ride?
Lauren Gibson provides some insight on how to keep your business going in a tough economy.
business needs to be on that spend
list.
International players with heritage,
brand portfolios and experience are
going to lead the pack in 2016 and will
set the pace for South African markets.
Many health and beauty specialist
retailers have continued to increase
the quality and variety of high end
or private label products they offer
in an attempt to remain competitive,
generate higher margins and take
advantage of branding opportunities.
But this may be a fad and will be short
lived as consumers want expertise.
Seven out of 10 consumers would R
Stitching the aesthetic and medical worlds together.
Danné Montague-King (DMK) can enhance and prolong the results of fi llers and injectables and minimise post surgery downtime to days, not months.
DMK Pre and Post Operative Treatments work on the premise that the healthier skin functions are prior to surgery, the faster it heals and the better the result.
DMK Skin Revision Protocols can offer you:• New clientele with high levels of client retention and
satisfaction• A competitive advantage in an ever-changing market• Pre and Post Operative Treatment Protocols for medical
procedures• Alignment with medical practices• The benefi ts of high retail margins• International education and marketing support
With DMK Skin Revision Protocols.
BEFORE AFTER
Before and after images demonstrate one of many DMK signature treatments designed to assist healthy skin recovery.
www.dmkskincare.co.za
DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES
+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
18
Lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She is currently the regional manager of the Cape Town team.
rather go to a recognised expert
in the field in a tougher economy
versus a general store. Examples are
businesses like brow bars, skin bars
and lash bars.
This year will see a generalised
4% compound annual growth rate on
2015 in health and beauty specialist
retailers and this is expected to be
driven mainly by the expanding
presence of medical doctors and
pharmacies now able to offer health
and beauty services. Although this
is lower than the 9% growth in 2015
versus 2014, it is still showing growth
where some sectors will be showing
a 0% growth rate or be lucky not to
go into a decline.
Lipstick effectSo why is there a strong demand
despite the poor economic growth?
It’s the lipstick effect. Beauty sales
always seem to experience a boost
in tougher economic times. In fact,
at a conference given by RMB (Rand
Merchant Bank) recently, they said
that the health and beauty sector in
South Africa will be one of the best
performing sectors in a tougher
economy.
I believe the lipstick effect dates
back to the era of World War II, but
studies have shown that after 9/11
attacks in New York, certain health
and beauty products saw double
digit growth in sales of units.
The lipstick effect is based
on the theory that, when facing
an economic crisis, consumers will be
more willing to buy less costly luxury
goods. Instead of buying expensive
fur coats, for example, people will
buy expensive lipstick. For example,
your clients may not buy their usual
five products but they will still come
in for a treatment and buy three retail
products (the industry average for
2016) if they are important to them.
Clients will look for products that
offer multifunctional benefits and
come in economical sizes that can be
refilled, or sizes that can be chosen
according to budget.
RelevanceTo ensure growth in your business
you need to look at more than just
trends, data and past performance.
How relevant are you? Do you
understand the age of the customer
and what their needs are and how
their needs change in a tougher
economy? Have you identified the
customer’s micro-moment? (This
is a small moment that catches a
consumer’s attention and often leads
to impulse buys as something tells
them to take action.)
Are you making it easy to be in your
store, buy from your store and book
treatments in your store? Sixty-four-
percent of consumers shop at their
favourite shop because something
generates a micro-moment, such as a
different display or catchy marketing.
How active are you on social
media? It is not going to go away.
Ninety-three-percent of buying
is influenced by social media. In
tougher times consumers want to see
what others are doing and how they
are living a great life. If their favourite
celeb is always in your skin centre,
they will find the money to visit your
store just by seeing it on social media.
It is estimated that by 2020 there
will be 50 billion connected devices
– that is six devices per person! Can
you really not be connected?
Time managementYou need to polish up on time
management – a critical skill that will
end up saving you money and add to
your GP (Gross Profit) at the end of
each month. Money can be gained
or lost, but time can only be used or
wasted.
Other factors to consider are
therapists’ maximum potential and
productivity levels, treatment room
occupancy rates and the number
of units being sold per day. Try and
create a benchmark according to a
good industry average and work off
that.
At the end of the day we can
succeed in 2016. We just have to
ensure that we work smarter, better
and faster to ensure maximum
productivity in a tough economic
climate. PB
The lipstick effect... Beauty sales always seem to experience a boost in tougher economic times.
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
business tips
21
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
If we don’t make money in
our business, no lives will be
enhanced, including our own.
Retail sales should contribute
a minimum of 30% to your
treatment turnover and are an easy
way to make a profit.
Retailing is the process of selling a
product to consumers.
Merchandising is the practice
contributing to the sale of products to
the customer.
Selling is creating a demand for the
retail product (i.e. the merchandise).
We’ve often spoken about the
importance of excellent staff, good
location, keeping up with trends,
offering great value and ensuring that
the customer feels and looks fabulous,
while focusing on return business.
But we need to look at retailing and
merchandising, which are the two
things that will assist your sales.
It is no longer enough to simply
display products and hope for sales.
Today you need to be strategic and
have a merchandising plan to ensure
that the products are displayed in
a way that makes them become
irresistible.
Psychology of sellingYou have to be smart and think
about the psychology of selling. Did
you know that in a large store the
cheapest products are always placed
on the lowest shelves, with the more
expensive placed at eye level and
above? The more units of a product
that are displayed, the cheaper they
are. Customers know this. They get
the psychology.
Our job is to reinforce it. So, when
displaying products, think of the Triple
V factor:
Visibility – products must be easily
accessible.
Voiceability – staff must be able to
fully explain the products to the client.
Verifyability – the client needs to be
able to verify what the staff member
tells her, by testing the product
samples.
A salon should tantalise customers
with colours, scents, feelings and
effects, combined with packaging and
branding.
Spas are filled with possibilities for
displaying merchandise – treatment
rooms, relaxation lounges and locker
rooms. You don’t want to overdo
spa and salon owners will tell you that they are in the beauty industry to make clients feel good, look beautiful and to enhance their lives. That is true. But honestly, we’re in business (like any other people in business) to make money, writes Debbie Merdjan.
it, but you do want to make use of
the space available. Be subtle, well
organised, use the light well, and
draw the customer in.
Engage and inspire the
customer. Tell them a story about the
merchandise. Your product house
supplier will help you in terms of how
to stack and group the products,
how to illuminate them and how to
incorporate a theme. Work with them
and don’t be scared to ask for help.
Look at your merchandise and ask
yourself… does it evoke an emotion?
Do you want to reach out and buy it?
If the answer is yes, then wait.
Watch. And reap the rewards. Your
merchandise will sell. And you will
enhance your life, and those of
others. PB
The subtle art of retailing, merchandising and selling
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
22
How do you keep up with what is trending
when, in the blink of an eye, Hyaluronic
acid is yesterday’s news and the new must-
have is bee venom, or last year’s Green tea
is this year’s Ginseng?
After having sifted through a mountain of information, I’ve
decided to break it down and bring you the highlights.
Must-haveDNA repair enzymes – some would say that these have
revolutionised the fight against ageing caused by UV radiation.
Imagine this… can an ingredient, when applied to sun-
damaged skin, potentially prevent the development of cancer,
reverse the effects of UV exposure and prevent all related UV-
ageing like wrinkles, sun spots and sagging? The answer is
yes, DNA repair enzymes can.
Over-exposure to the sun damages the strands between
your DNA. This sets off a chain reaction that impedes cell
function, which can ultimately cause the mutations that lead
to cancer. DNA repair enzymes have the ability to eliminate
Movers & shakers in the world of ingredientsAt the supercharged pace with which technology moves today it is almost impossible for spas, salons and therapists to keep up with changes in skincare ingredients, writes Ayesha Rajah.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
business tips
23
Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.
What’s trending‘Me make-up’ fits in directly with one
of the largest growing consumer
trends, namely hyper-
personalisation. Consumers
now want everything tailor-
made, for example, ‘Not any
red lipstick, but the red lipstick
made for me.”
We are seeing major strides in the
world of colour cosmetic ingredients,
with a trend called custom blending.
Everything from your eye shadow, to
lip gloss, lipstick and even foundation,
can be uniquely signature-blended
just for you. You can go one step
further and change the performance
of your foundation; you can request
more oil control, change the texture,
go from more coverage to sheer, and,
best of all, get the perfect colour
match for your skin.
same time, hard enough and smooth
enough to be considered for their
great exfoliating benefits. Watch out
for a hefty price tag though.
The big ban – microbeads The Microbeads Must Fall initiative
has gone global, as microbeads have
already had such a negative impact
on the environment that President
Obama signed a bill last December
banning all plastic particles in personal
care products. The bill is called The
Microbeads Free Waters Act.
It was surprising to discover
how many products incorporate
microbeads – not only exfoliators
and face washes, but body washes,
body scrubs, foot scrubs and even
toothpaste.
TalcWith all eyes focused on the recent
talcum powder ovarian cancer lawsuit,
it is useful to know how it affects our
industry. Talcum powder is found
in loose and pressed powder, eye
shadow, bronzer and foundation.
I must stress, though, that it is the
over-exposure to talc powders that is
dangerous, and they should be kept
away for your nose and mouth due
to the minute particles that are easily
inhaled. PB
the damaged DNA, repair and
correct the sequence, leaving the
skin more resilient, younger-looking
and healthier.
The green buzzIn the natural skincare arena,
marine biotechnology is a game-
changer and can be considered a
‘cosmeceutical’. Its application goes
beyond the benefits of traditional
skincare products. It is seen as the
future of results-oriented cosmetics,
and the bonus is that it is 100%
natural.
To put it simply, marine
biotechnology is the technique of
using marine micro-organisms to
produce, or transform, an active
ingredient without the addition of
chemicals or artificial products,
making it eco-friendly.
Marine biotechnology provides
the cosmetic industry with highly
potent ingredients that provide
powerful results. With an almost
infinite number of possibilities for
new skincare applications, marine
biotechnology consistently delivers
proven long-term and visible results.
Sunblock innovationsSunblocks are fast becoming the new
super creams. Look out for these
innovations: an all-in-one product
containing SPF (Sun Protection
Factor), EPF (Environmental
Protection Factor), which combines
a cocktail of antioxidants to protect
the skin from environmental
aggression, as well as DNA repair
enzymes. Sounds like a well-
coordinated attack against ageing!
The other breakthrough is
an SPF that gives maximum
protection against UV radiation
but allows Vitamin D absorption,
which contains Solar D. These two
processes are normally mutually
exclusive, which has led to a number
of health concerns. I suffer from
severe hyper-pigmentation and wear
sunblock 24/7/365, hence I have
developed such extreme Vitamin D
insufficiency that it brought an onset
of chronic inflammation in my body.
Approximately 40% of children and
60% of adults suffer from a Vitamin
D deficiency. With this sunblock
innovation you get the best of worlds,
a protected skin and a healthy body.
Bee venomOne of the over-the-top ingredients
trending right now is bee venom.
Yes, being lightly stung, or at least
fooling your skin into thinking it has
been gently stung, by a compound
called Melittin, produces great anti-
ageing benefits.
The theory is that applying bee
venom directly to the skin should
trigger a healing effect, thereby
stimulating collagen production and
plumping up fine lines and wrinkles.
Apparently the sensation on the
skin varies from no unusual feeling to
a mild tingling sensation.
Diamonds are a girl’s best friendUsing precious gems in skincare is
all the rage at the moment. Rubies,
emeralds and diamonds are being
incorporated into cleansers and
exfoliators as a polishing agent.
Gemstone particles as fine as dust
are gentle on the skin, but, at the
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
24 salon focus
The South African
beauty industry is
characterised by a
multitude of salons
and skin clinics that
open and close after a year or two,
due to questionable service and/
or bad business decisions. So, when
a salon manages to keep going for
four and a half decades, it’s quite
something.
When asked how it feels for
The Mask Skin & Body Clinic to
have reached its 45th anniversary
milestone, Helene Bramwell responds:
“Quite incredible! It has been an
amazing journey from the days of
simple treatments, to an age where
the therapist’s role has become more
valuable and sophisticated than ever
before. The advances in therapies
and cosmetics have kept my passion
for the beauty industry nurtured.”
Bramwell credits the salon’s
success to hard work, keeping up with
the changing role of the therapist
by bringing in new techniques and
therapies, and ensuring that the
salon stays focused on client needs
and committed to results.
“What has been integral to our
longevity has been being involved
in the beauty profession as a whole
and keeping constantly updated,”
she continues. “Over the years I’ve
always ensured that the team sings
out of the same songbook, so to
speak. And, as I keep saying – ‘No
man is an island’ – there are so many
people who have played a role in the
success of The Mask.”
Bramwell notes that she is truly
blessed to have client's that have
supported her since the early 1970s.
“In some cases we are treating
these clients’ children and
grandchildren and I look forward
to the next generation – it is truly
an honour. Many clients have left
Johannesburg but when they happen
to be in town again, they come back
to us. These special relationships are
based on trust,” she comments.
On March 1, The Mask skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg, celebrated its 45th birthday. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to co-founder and owner, Helene Bramwell, about the clinic’s enduring success.
Behind ‘The Mask’
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
25 salon focus
Community feelSince inception The Mask has
been situated in Parkview.
“I love Parkview because of
the diverse community and the
general feeling of belonging,”
continues Bramwell. “In the early
years, I was offered many spots in
other suburbs to move my practice
to, like Hyde Park and Sandton, for
example. But Parkview has always
been my first choice.”
Many years ago The Mask
moved from its original small
premises on Tyrone Avenue to
a slightly larger one at 54 Tyrone
Avenue, and then later to 60 Tyrone.
“We now have a much larger
space that can accommodate all the
various disciplines that the clinic
offers. When we opened in 1971 we
had two therapists. It was not easy
in those days as the beauty industry
was an unknown profession. We
were classified as indulgent and only
for affluent, vain and spoilt woman.
Luckily this attitude changed over
time, albeit a long time.
“My partner in The Mask, Mary-
Anne Smith, fell pregnant and we
employed another therapist to assist,
and, as the business grew, we needed
more hands. Training in those early
days was not up to the standard it
is today, so a lot of in-house training
was required. Because
of our attitude and
commitment to success,
we grew and moved to
the larger premises.”
Today there are six
somatologists, two
beauty therapists and
three nail technicians
working at the clinic.
of all being in the same boat, and for
the boat to remain afloat we need to
be going in the same direction.
“My staff are not in competition
with one another, they get paid well
and there is no commission structure.
At the end of the year, if funds will
allow, they get bonuses. In my opinion
this is the only way you keep staff and
ensure they look after the interests of
the practice as a whole. You have
to acknowledge how important
they are and listen to their needs
as well.
“Personally I do believe that one
leads by example – I am passionate
about what I do and this passion
cascades over my team. I like being
involved and I do believe that you
earn a tremendous amount of
respect and commitment from
staff by ‘being one of them’. My
‘open door’ relationship with staff
ensures that any queries, issues or
problems they have can be openly
discussed.”
Celebrations Bramwell and her staff, as well as
a few of her friends, marked the
salon’s 45th birthday by sending off
45 balloons into the atmosphere
in early March.
“Instead of an actual celebratory
event, we will make a donation
to the Woman & Men Against Child
Abuse charity,” she explains.
After having been in the industry
since 1966, Bramwell still relishes
working in the beauty industry.
“It’s such an exciting field to be
in, especially in this ‘feel younger,
look younger’ era,” she says. “We
need to offer clients the most up-to-
date therapies that do the job. This
is a long way away from the ‘classic
massage’ era, although massage is
still enjoyed and effective when using
sophisticated active serums.
“Today we are able to offer
clients advanced therapies such as
laser, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light),
RF (Radiofrequency), LED (Light-
Emitting Diode); micro-needling, skin
peeling, etc.” PB
The original version of The Mask
measured 90 square metres and
comprised a leg waxing cubicle, three
facial cubicles, a small kitchen and
a reception area. Today The Mask
occupies 230 square metres and
includes two waxing cubicles, plus 17
cubicles.
Loyal staffBramwell believes that a business
is only as good as the people you
employ who have the same work ethic
and commitment as you.
“I have had my ups and downs
with staff over the years but I believe
I have been extremely lucky with my
choices. Team spirit and the ability to
share information, discuss issues and
cope with the challenges are very
important. The Mask fosters a culture
“What has been integral to our longevity has been being involved in the beauty profession as a whole and keeping constantly updated.” Helene Bramwell
2016
more info: www.probeauty.co.za
BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASSCheck the website for online bookings
and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za
On: 28 & 29 August 2016at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand
MONDAY 29 AUGUST 2016
9h00 Registration
9h30 SALES TRAINING WORkSHOP
11h00 Tea
11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued
13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition
14h30 CUSTOMER SERVICE
First contact with your business
Customer narrative
Attention to detail of the customer treatment
Customer feedback: the lost art of connection
15h30 REVENUE MANAGEMENT
Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line
Effective booking of treatments and upselling
Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!
16h30 Close
Let’s talkabout it...
SUNDAY 28 AUGUST 2016
8h30 Registration
9h30 Welcome by Mark Moloney
10h00 kEYNOTE SPEAkER
11h30 Tea / coffee
12h00 STAFF
Staff Retention programmes
How to recruit the right team
Invest in training your team
13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition
15h00 MARkETING
How to put together an advert
Power of copyrighting
Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?
Mobile marketing
16h00 ECO SUSTAINABILITY
Renewal sources
Carbon neutral ideas
17h30 Tea and Close
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
27 spa convention
Why do you think it’s important for industry stakeholders to attend events like The International Spa Convention?I think it is important to attend the
International Spa Convention if you
are connected to any part of this
industry so that you have a chance
to listen to ideas and thoughts from
your colleagues. Combined with a
chance to network with experienced
professionals, this convention offers
the opportunity to learn, be inspired
and comprehend how the industry is
developing.
The International Spa Convention
establishes a platform to take time
away from the daily operations
of the spa and gives delegates an
opportunity to think and reflect on
their businesses. The agenda and
mix of delegates stimulates ideas
and actions that can be used to
assist any operator.
What do you think are the biggest challenges facing the global spa industry today?Without doubt the greatest global
challenge is the shortage of skilled
management. Although there are
well established schools to train
in the practical skills of massage
and to train aestheticians, there is
a shortage of people attending the
management programmes. The spa
and wellness industry has exploded
in numbers (as shown in research
conducted by ISPA and the Global
Wellness Institute), which has caused
the shortage of skilled labour.
The second challenge I foresee
is the threat to traditional business
models through disrupters such as
technology, the medical industry or
even the wellness trend.
Technology has already aided
entrepreneurial sites to entice
therapists away from working at spas
to become independent therapists,
who are available online and able to
deliver mobile treatments at their
clients’ homes. Businesses such as
Zeel in the US and Massage.com
in the UK have growth throughout
several key cities. Whether this is a
fad or a trend and how much risk
is involved in this type of business
remains to be seen, but for now it
drains staff away from spas. In fact,
Zeel has started a campaign that
advises spa operators to reduce their
overheads and call a Zeel therapist
to the spa to do the treatment.
The medical industry has become
interested in spa and spa treatments
– particularly as there is growing
scientific evidence of the benefits
of certain massages and treatments.
This may change the way the industry
is regulated and put more demands
on operators to satisfy legislative
protocols in order to operate.
And finally, the trend of wellness
moves spa beyond the walls and to
the entire brand message for hotels
and resorts. Designs will have to
change to include systems that
make people healthy. The advances
in nutrition and healthy eating
will continue and the selection
of programmes may at last be
sustainable.
These are some of the issues I
will raise at the International Spa
Convention.
What will you focus on in your presentations at The International Spa Convention?My presentations will look at the
methods of hiring and retention, and
look at a simple strategy built from
understanding a single KPI (Key
Performance Indicator).
What do you hope that delegates will take away with them from your presentations at The International Spa Convention?I hope that I can provide practical
information and ideas that can be
used at any day spa, hotel or resort.
I hope that delegates will be inspired
and be keen to ask questions that
can help them improve their skills. PB
VP of spa & wellness at the Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts, Andrew Gibson will be a keynote speaker at the International spa Convention, which takes place on 28 & 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.
Q&A with Andrew Gibson
The International Spa Convention establishes a platform to take time away from the daily operations of the spa and gives delegates an opportunity to think and reflect on their businesses.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
Customer service should NOT
be a department within
your business, but rather
an attitude that permeates
through each individual
person working in that business, no matter
their position.
To define the term, customer service is
the provision of service to customers before,
during and after a purchase. The perception of
success of such interactions is dependent on
employees ‘who can adjust themselves to the
personality of the guest’.
Empathy / assessmentThis is the ability to understand the customer,
his/her needs and mood. Let’s say a customer
feels cheated or disappointed – a company
representative with effective customer skills
must respond in a tone and manner that will
appease and reassure the customer.
To assess is to ask questions and gather
customer-related information through
observation to gauge the needs and potential
of a customer. Look and listen for subtle
clues about their current mood, patience
level, personality, etc., and you’ll go far in
keeping your customer interactions positive.
Patience and tactJoyce Meyer said: ‘Patience is not the ability
to wait but how you act while you are
waiting’.
Great service beats fast service so be
sure to take the time to figure out what your
customer truly wants. Listen with your ears,
eyes and heart. What are you customers
really telling you without saying it?
The customer of today will remain loyal to your business based purely on how you made them feel during the time they spent with you and how you engaged with them, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
Customer service
29 spa focus
R
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
30 spa focus
Tact is an important attribute in
customer service. As Winston Churchill
said: ‘Tact is the ability to tell someone
to go to hell in such a way that they
look forward to the trip’. Never blame
the customer.
Always keep your cool. You cannot
let an upset customer force you to
lose your cool no matter what they say
or how they say it.
Clear communicationWhen it comes to important points
that you need to relay clearly to
customers, keep it simple and leave
nothing to doubt.
For example, when you are
confirming a treatment, make sure
you name the type of treatment, its
duration, the therapist involved, the
date, time and venue.
NegotiationTo negotiate well, you need patience
and tact, empathy and assessment.
You need to be able to make quick and
shrewd decisions regarding customer
needs and company policy to satisfy
both ends.
A classic example here is when a
client arrives late for their treatment
and really wants the full treatment
time. The art of negotiation can mean
the difference between losing this
client (and they spread a negative
story) or keeping this client loyal
forever and they spread the story
about how amazing your service is.
Movie starGreat customer service = basic acting
skills necessary to maintain your usual
cheery persona in spite of dealing with
people who may be just plain grumpy.
Sometimes you’re going to come
across people that you’ll never be able
to make happy. So best you polish up
those acting skills and remember that
a good actor never comes across as
fake.
Do you talk a ‘positive language’?Your ability to make minor changes
in your conversational patterns can
truly go a long way in creating happy
customers.
Here’s an example: let’s say a
customer expresses interest in a
particular product, but that product
happens to be on back order until next
month.
Small changes that utilise ‘positive
language’ can greatly affect how
the customer hears your response.
Consider the following two examples:
Without positive language: “I can’t
get you that product until next month;
it is back-ordered and unavailable at
this time.”
With positive language: “That
product will be available next month.
I can place the order for you right now
and make sure that it is sent to you as
soon as it reaches our salon/spa.”
Do you look how your customer wants to feel?Is your make-up impeccable and
actually on your face? Is your hair
clean, neat, tidy, healthy looking and
not all colours of the rainbow?
Are your toenails and fingers nails
perfectly polished and groomed. Are
your teeth clean and white and do
you have fresh breath? Do you look
gorgeous?
Product knowledgeThe best forward-facing employees
in your company will work on having
a deep knowledge of every product
and treatment offered.
Without knowing your product
from front-to-back, you won’t know
how to help customers when they run
into problems. Do the test today, walk
past a therapist holding a product
you picked up off your shelf and ask
her to list one active ingredient in the
product and sell it to you.
Time managementIf you don’t know the solution to a
problem, move on and hand your
customer over to someone who does.
For example, if you are going to
spend 30 minutes of a manicure on
the application of lacquer because
you simply don’t paint nails well, then
it is time to move on from manicures,
or practise until you are perfect.
Persuasion skillsIt’s not about making a sales pitch over
the phone when booking treatments
or after a treatment recommending
products, it’s about not letting
potential customers slip away because
you couldn’t create enough worth for
the customer to buy the product.
For example, when a customer calls
in wanting a specific brand of product
which you might not stock, persuasion
skills are needed to convince this
customer to still book their treatment
with your spa using a different
product.
DeterminationA great work ethic and a willingness
to do whatever needs to be done (and
not take shortcuts) is a key skill when
providing the kind of service that
people talk about.
The many memorable customer
service stories out there (many of
which had a huge impact on the
business) were created by a single
employee who refused to just do the
‘status quo’ when it came to helping
someone out. PB
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.
Great service beats fast
service so be sure to take the time to figure out what your customer truly
wants.
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Situated near the town of
Clanwilliam, Bushmans
Kloof is surrounded by the
spectacular Cederberg
Mountain range and
stunning landscapes.
“In these surroundings, spa guests
feel as though they are in an oasis,”
says spa manager Dee Basson.
“There is a natural healing energy
that one feels when staying at the
Bushmans Kloof Lodge. With our
beautiful environment, we feel that
it is important to incorporate holistic
principles and natural healing in the
treatments.”
She notes that the spa interior is
designed in natural muted tones of
whites, creams, beiges, stones and
marble. “The spa exudes a calming,
light and spiritual ambience, where
guests can succumb to the tranquil
world of pampering.
“One of the unique features of the
spa is our beautiful Crystal Steam
Room. It features a central block
of pure rock quartz crystal, which
is renowned as a ‘master healer’. It
helps cleanse and enhance the
organs, connecting the physical
dimension with the mind,
and aids concentration while
unlocking memory.”
‘Soul’utionWhen commenting on the Ceder-
berg ‘Soul’ution, the spa’s signature
treatment, Basson points out that
it was inspired by the Cederberg
Mountains.
“Bushmans Kloof is situated in the
heart of the area where Rooibos is
winner of the Professional Beauty Award for Hotel/Resort spa of the Year 2015, The spa at Bushmans Kloof wilderness Reserve & wellness Retreat in the western Cape places emphasis on ‘natural healing energy’, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
spa focus
32
Journey to wellness
33
Professional Beauty May 2016
spa focus spa focus
33
grown,” she continues. “The spa’s 90-minute signature
treatment is performed in our secluded Riverside
Gazebo, where the guest is indulged in a unique
combination of soothing therapeutic treatments
that are based on ancient African traditions and the
aromatic power of blends of indigenous Rooibos and
Fynbos vegetation, combined with healing plant oils.
“This treatment includes a relaxing massage, utilising
hot stones to prepare the muscles, a Rooibos milk bath
foot treatment and a face and scalp massage.”
The Spa at Bushmans Kloof uses the signature
brand of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection, namely
B|Africa. This range of exclusive body care products
and professional spa treatments is prepared by
blending native African plant extracts with the
natural goodness of the sea and eco-friendly
production technologies.
Accolades aplentyIn addition to the Professional Beauty Hotel/Resort
Spa of the Year 2015 Award, The Spa at Bushmans
Kloof has won the following awards: Spa Magazine
Silver Sage Readers’ Choice Awards: Favourite Resort/
Hotel Spa in Africa and the Middle East (2009); Les
Nouvelles Esthétiques Spa Awards: Winner Unique Spa
(2011); The Safari Awards 2016: Runner-up Best Safari
Spa/Retreat (2015); and International Wellness Travel
Awards: Best in South Africa (2015).
Unlike some other destination spas, which also
operate on a day spa basis, The Spa at Bushmans
Kloof is dedicated exclusively to guests who stay at
the Lodge. PB
SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Bushmans Kloof (The Red Carnation Hotel Collection)
Opened: 2002
Size: 173 square metres
Number of treatment rooms: Four rooms, riverside gazebo
Number of full-time therapists: Five
Hydro facilities: Crystal Steam Room, heated outdoor pool
Brands: Elemis, Dermalogica, Mio and B|Africa
DURBAN12 & 13 JUNE 2016
For your FREE entry, pre-register at
www.probeauty.co.za
The key To your beauTy business poTenTial
unlock your opTions!
Educationail Workshop Professional Beauty Network Breakfast
Stock up on show specials Source new products
Focus on future and professional development
Probeauty Dbn 2016.indd 2 2016/04/14 10:27 AM
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
35 professional beauty durban 2016
Professional Beauty
Durban offers visitors
an excellent networking
opportunity and the
chance to source new
suppliers, compare existing ones and
find out what the latest innovations
are. Not only can visitors compare
price, product and suppliers, many
exhibitors will also offer visitors to
their stands excellent ‘show only’
offers.
Here is a sneak peek at some of the
companies who will be exhibiting at
the show.
Acu-sol (Dermacare) will showcase
a fantastic range of Italian waxes that
are new to South Africa.
Best Lasers helps its clients to take
their businesses to the next level both
financially and technologically by
adding Alma Lasers to their practice.
The company provides extensive
training to clients, as well as technical
support with local and international
backing. Best Lasers registers the
client with the Department of Health
& Safety and provides essential
information regarding all the necessary
precautions operators must take when
using a laser.
Bio Sculpture Gel will showcase its
innovative new EVO Gel, which will be
available at the show, along with many
other show specials.
Visit the Brisan Distributors stand
to find out why customers worldwide
prefer Alexandria Body Sugaring for
hair removal. This is a 100% natural,
skin friendly, safe, gentle and far less
painful alternative to waxing, which
leads to permanency, leaves the skin
exfoliated and silky smooth and can
be used on all parts of the body.
BTL Industries designs and
manufactures non-surgical machines
for the aesthetic market that represent
the best devices in fat dissolving, skin
tightening, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle,
lymph drainage and IPL treatments.
Calgel – come to our stand to
find out about our half-price training
programmes in Durban and our new
Calgel Top Gel, which gives clients a
long-lasting shine.
Creative Glamour – come and test
our new and improved brush cleaner,
or buy a limited edition purple brush
holder, or be more professional with
our mixing thumb palette.
Ikhokha – this
system enables
hundreds of
hair and beauty
p r o f e s s i o n a l s
to accept card
payments from
their salon, or in their clients’ homes.
It’s a card machine in your pocket that
comes in hot pink. Come and visit
Ikhokha at stand A11 and get a R100
show discount.
kalahari produces a range of
world-class skin and body products
that capture not only the earthy
goodness of nature, but the unique,
sensory experience of Africa. Using
So, what’s on show?The Professional Beauty Durban show, taking place from 12 to 13 June at the Durban ICC, is positioned to play a crucial role in allowing beauty industry professionals to benchmark the latest products, services and equipment.
Affordable software and support
for everyone from a home salon to the
most sophisticated spa or group. ESP Software gives you the opportunity
to create a professional as well as
personal environment for your clients.
With ESP’s modular philosophy you
can grow your software as you grow
your business from sales to balance
sheet and everything in between.
Pic: Moyou
R
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
36 professional beauty durban 2016
only naturally harvested botanical
ingredients, Kalahari’s superior plant
oils and phyto-effective extracts are
compounded into quality skincare
solutions that restore and nourish your
skin.
At kryolan, we make make-up. But
not like anybody else. Because unlike
everybody else, we actually make our
make-up. We‘ve done it our own way
for 70 years and three generations.
We think of it. We manufacture it.
Formulate it and love it into existence.
Book a Luscious Lashes International Training course at the
show valued @ R5,500 and receive kit
with training @ R4,500.
Visit Lilian Terry International – creators of homeopathic aroma-
therapy – at stand D17 to take
advantage of a 10% off show special.
The company will showcase its LT
FlexyCups and visitors can experience
complexes, wraps, gels and toners on
the stand.
Moyou Nails offers high quality and
long lasting nail designs. This product
is unique because it is the only one of
its kind in Africa. Buy the Salon Pro
Sets for R1,500 and receive three free
nail polishes in any colour.
Polish Applique from Nailsforu is an
easy to remove LED / UV cured gel top
coat applied over your favourite brand
of base coat and polish. It promotes
a smooth gel like effect and improves
performance and longevity, and
provides a protective, hard-wearing,
durable polish overlay. Magnificent
high gloss surface shine and Toluene,
Formadehyde and DBP free.
Nature’s Essence is a leading
manufacturer and marketer of herbal
and aromatherapy based skincare, hair
care, and body care range of products
with a sister concern by the name of
Coloressence, promoting make-up
and colour cosmetics on a national
and international level.
Nouveau Contour is the industry
leader worldwide in permanent
and re-constructive make-up in 26
countries. Now offering South Africa
the best pigments, equipment and
training in our Nouveau Academy.
(Beware of imitations.)
For more than 40 years, NSI (Nail Systems International) has
been at the forefront of
researching, developing
and manufacturing
innovative products with
cutting edge ideas for
the professional nail care
industry.
Pure Smile is the only 100% natural
teeth whitening supplier in Africa.
Quick: 30-minute once-off session.
Efficient: gain from two to nine shades.
Painless: no sensitive teeth or gum
irritation. Affordable: recommended
retail price – R 790. Professional
Beauty special: R390 instead of R790
for a 30-minute once-off session /
R40 instead of R49 for our unique
instant whitening toothpaste. Become
a partner (corner package offer) for
R9,990 instead of R10,990.
Studex will demonstrate to salon
owners how offering a Studex ear-
piercing service can increase both
income and
foot traffic into
their business.
Every easy
to use and
extremely hygienic,
Studex systems can
be used for belly- and
nose-piercing, as well as for
ear-piercing. Studex looks forward
to meeting both new and existing
customers at the show.
Enhance your eyelashes by up to
300% with WOW 3D Fibre Lashes.
These lashes are made from 100%
natural tea tree fibre and beeswax.
Requiring only a five-minute
application, the lashes last all day and
can be removed with facial cleanser
and water. PB
For the first time ever, Professional
Beauty and Nail File will host the
Educationail Workshop in Durban, on
12 June at the Durban ICC.
Supported by ITEC, the
Educationail Workshop will
expose delegates to tutorials from
leading brand names on the latest
developments in the nail industry
and how to grow your business.
All delegates will receive
attendance certificates.
To book your seat go to
www.probeauty.co.za
For more information about Professional Beauty Durban, visit: www.probeauty.co.za.
EDuCATIoNAIL WoRkShoP
䌀漀洀椀渀最 匀漀漀渀⸀⸀⸀℀
䌀漀氀氀攀挀琀椀漀渀
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Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
38 sponsored editorial
By the end of summer our
skin is naturally darker
than it was in winter. This
is not just because it has
been exposed to sun.
We naturally secrete more hormones
that prompt our skin to become darker
in summer. That means that our skin is
somewhat more sun-resistant and at the
same time, the chances for sun damage
are diminished because the sun is moving
towards the north and will soon cross
from the Tropic of Capricorn to the
Tropic of Cancer. This means that we get
less exposure to UVB and less chance to
make vitamin D. Because the skin is more
pigmented, it blocks UVB rays, which
means that we can make less vitamin D.
However, the body still needs vitamin D.
At the same time, the chances of UVA
damage remain basically the same because
UVA easily penetrates the atmosphere
(and even clouds and windows) and can
damage what little vitamin D we have
made. It definitely also damages the
vitamin A in the skin. Therefore we have
two important deficiencies that can occur
when we get to autumn. This is particularly
important because these two vitamins play
a large part in supporting your immune
system and autumn is a good time to make
sure that your blood and skin levels of
vitamin A are kept high in preparation for
the miseries of winter that follow. You will
also need antioxidants to fine-tune your
immunity.
What can we do to optimise the condition of our skin and body in autumn?I believe that this is a particularly good time
to make sure that you have the highest
levels of vitamin A and D in your skin and
your body. I recommend taking vitamin
A and D supplements orally to fortify the
skin and then one should also use topical
vitamin A and antioxidants. I recommend
the highest levels that are suitable for
your skin. I particularly love using Environ
C-Quence Serum and Crème and the
higher Vitamin A dosage level products
within the Original range. Some people like
Caring for your skin and body in autumnBy Dr Des Fernandes
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
39 sponsored editorial
to add the Environ Original Range Moisture
Gel, which adds hydration and helps to
raise the vitamin A levels. One’s body still
needs attention because of exposure to
the sun, so at night I like to use the vitamin
ACE Body Oil on my arms, chest and legs.
The second half of autumn is also the
time to consider if you should have a series
of Cool Peels that may extend into winter.
Environ’s Cool Peel technology is like no
other, as we have pioneered the production
of Acid creams and thick gels. The Environ
Cool Peels are safe and effective; they
have a unique method of application. As
the peels are applied, water molecules
evaporate, causing a cooling effect or
sensation on the skin, unlike conventional
peeling. Your Qualified Environ Skincare
Therapist will be able to analyse your skin
and recommend the best treatment option.
Autumn is the time to support the skin
so that one can enter winter with healthier
skin and build it up in preparation for
spring. Remember that daily supplements
constantly help you to feel and be at your
best. PB
Dr Des Fernandes is a world renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care which is found in more than 70 countries world wide. He was a pioneer in the use of vitamin A in skin care formulations.
If you would like to pose a question to Dr Des Fernandes, please email the editor on [email protected]
RECOMMENDATIONS:Retail:Ionzyme C-Quence Serums and
C-Quence Crème, C-Quence Energising
Masque
Environ Retinol Serums – Intensive
Vitamin A Serums are part of the unique
Environ step-up system. They may assist
to improve the overall appearance of the
skin; and may be used once the client is
comfortable on higher levels of Environ
Vitamin A moisturisers.
Evenescence Range – after extensive
research, these products (Clarifying lotion
and C- Boost) were formulated to assist
with improving the appearance of uneven
skin tone; and work synergistically with
the Environ Vitamin A moisturisers and
Environ Sunscreens
Revival Masque – a unique combination
of revolutionary ingredients that assist
with making the skin look more luminous,
smoother and revitalised
Vit A & D Supplements
Vit A, C, E Body Oil
Professional Treatments:Environ Cool Peel treatments
Environ DF Facials – a serious result
driven treatment; using a combination
of Low Frequency Sonophoresis and
Pulsed Iontophoresis to enhance further
product penetration. This treatment is
unique to Environ, as it was designed
and pioneered by Dr Des Fernandes.
Best used in combination with Environ
homecare products.
Autumn is the time to support the skin so that one can enter winter with healthier skin and build it up in preparation for spring.
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
40 acne treatments
Causes of acne remain the
same throughout one’s
life, according to Dr
Janine Ellenberger (MB,
ChB, MMedSc), founder
of GR8/SKN.
“There are three major causes of
acne, namely hormonal fluctuations,
hyperkeratinisation (an excess
of keratin in the epidermis), and
an overgrowth of the p.acnes bacteria
on the skin.
“Approximately 85% of people
between the ages of 12 and 24
experience at least minor acne. It is
worst in boys between the ages of
15 to 24. Girls tend to develop acne
around puberty, but often it gets
worse in their 20s and can last until the
menopause – the hormonal lifespan
in other words. Adult acne is mostly
prevalent in women and the major
cause is hormonal fluctuation.
“There are factors which can make
acne flare-ups worse, such as using
the wrong make-up, emotional stress,
diet, overexposure to the sun and using
skincare products that can aggravate
breakouts,” explains Ellenberger.
She notes that when treating adults
with acne as opposed to teenagers,
adults require more moisture as they
get older, because the barrier function
of the skin is compromised. “It is
important to include essential fatty
acids in the moisturising routine, and
peptides are a good addition as they
help with collagen production and
reduce the risk of acne scarring.”
Fermented organic rye QMS Medicosmetics products
indicated for acne include Intravital
Plus, which is suitable for adult and
younger skins. The Dermabrasive
Gel is offered as a peeling option for
problematic skin, as the fermented
organic rye in the formulation
improves the skin’s good bacteria.
The QMS Medicosmetics Med
Set is recommended for over-30s
with problematic skin. This product
contains fermented organic rye as
well.
The scourge of many a teenager’s life, as well as a good portion of adults, the unsightly breakouts on the face caused by acne can result in anxiety, reduced self-esteem and depression, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
The ‘pizza-face’SYNDROME
41
Professional Beauty May 2016
acne treatments
Also recommended are the Deep Cleansing Lotion
and the Freshening Tonic, a complementary cleansing
combo for improving the skin’s acid mantle that aids
in fighting infection.
Three-in-oneUrsula Hunt of DermaFix defines acne as the retention
of dead skin cells and the excessive proliferation of
additional cells.
“To make matters worse, these cells accumulate in the
pores of an acne-susceptible family,” she continues.
“The DermaFix product range consists of skincare
products that include MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic
Cleanser and MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic Toner, which
assist with acne improvement. These two products
contain a key ingredient known as Mandelic Acid, a
three-in-one multipurpose formulation that assists
with reducing inflammatory, pustular, comedonal and
papular acne. Gram-negative folliculitis (inflammation
in the hair follicle) also shows improvement with the
application of Mandelic Acid.”
She notes that Vitamin A, in the form of Retinol, has
long been used with success in assisting acne-prone
skin. “However, use of this form very often leads to
severe skin irritation and sensitivity. MD Prescriptives’
Vitamin A Propionate provides a less antagonistic
approach. Used nightly, it assists
with the removal of the abnormal cell
thickening within the inside lining of
the follicle, thereby reversing the
process of keratin retention, often
associated with the blocking of
pores leading to comedogenic build
up and pustular lesions.
“MD Prescriptives’ Acne Solutions
offers anti-bacterial properties, along
with providing anti-inflammatory
benefits through the inclusion of
Niacinamide, Blackcurrant Leaf
Extract and Raspberry Leaf Extract.
Acne Solutions actively works to
reduce sebum oxidation and fight
bacterial proliferation, as well as
calming redness and irritation. This
formulation can be used during the
day and the combination of benefits
can be seen within days of use.” R
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
42 acne treatments
Complex formulationThe experts at Babor add that the
common causes of acne, apart from
hormones, are genetics, stress, diet,
poor skincare, exercising with make-
up on, allergies and medication.
The Babor Pure range contains
Farnesol, which helps to inhibit
bacterial growth and reduces
any redness. Also included in the
formulation is Phytosphingosines,
for strengthening the skin’s own
protective lipid barrier, and horsetail
for its astringent effect and to promote
regeneration. A complex of yeast,
Vitamin B and niacinamides helps to
regulate the oil balance of the skin.
Regulating and balancingAfter many years of research, Dr Gobac
has developed a comprehensive and
effective way forward in the treatment
and management of acne, which
combines professional treatments
with a simple home care routine.
Says Dr Robert Gobac: “The Dr
Gobac TX professional and home care
products are designed to regulate and
balance the skin and its protective
lipid layers, reducing inflammation,
eliminating infection and enhancing
the healing process.
“By introducing actives like
Sphyngo-ceryl and Vitamin A
palmitate, the exact quantity and
quality of sebum production, one
of the main factors in developing
acne, is regulated and the lipid layer
protection is enhanced. We pay
particular attention to protecting the
skin against free radicals, one of the
main culprits in the ongoing battle
against acne. Unicontrazone and
Niacinamid (also known as Vitamin
B3) are just some of the actives used
to prevent inflammation and enhance
the healing process.”
All Dr Gobac TX products contain
extracts of Dragon’s Blood, one of the
most crucial actives used during the
cleansing, extraction, protection and
treatment phases.
“This ingredient has an exceptional
proven track record. It acts as a natural
anti-microbial agent, eliminating
staphylococcus and other micro-
organisms thus preventing infection,
inflammation, ulcers and scar
formation, as well as pigmentation
during the healing process,” explains
Gobac.
Natural plant extractsKalahari’s Phyto-
Correct Serum
can be applied to
specifically target
blemishes, or it
can be layered
under the daily
moisturiser to
enhance and purify
the skin’s natural
appearance.
Says Kalahari
founder, Carina Franck: “It is a
compound of highly effective
natural plant extracts that gently, yet
effectively, target problematic skin
conditions. The anti-inflammatory
properties of the Tea Tree and Aloe
Vera extracts calm the skin, while
neutralising the bacteria involved
in the development of acne. This
soothing serum will leave your skin
feeling purified and revived.”
The Kalahari Phyto-Film Toner is a
treatment toner that will leave a highly
effective film of botanical ingredients
on the skin.
Fresh on the marketNew to South Africa, the BB Cream/
Blemish Balm from Dr Schrammek
derma.cosmetics assists with a
variety of skin problems and provides
Pic
: Dre
amst
ime
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
43 acne treatments
coverage, protection and an even,
flawless complexion.
Says Victoria Wagner of Evolution
Cosmetic: “Originally Blemish Balm
was used to soothed stressed skin and
conceal redness after a Dr Schrammek
Green Peel treatment, thanks to
its anti-inflammatory and calming
effect, but as soon as the cream was
introduced, it soon became clear that
Blemish Balm conceals impurities,
evens out redness, refines pores and
has a soothing and regenerating
effect.”
Local prideProudly developed in South Africa, the
trademarked Skin Doctors Resurfacing
Acne Treatment incorporates a mini
micro-dermabrasion phase, with its
advanced exfoliating crystals gently
removing the dull, lifeless top layer of
skin to reveal fresh, resurfaced skin.
Thereafter a BHA (Beta-Hydroxy
Acid) and AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid)
cocktail is applied, which assists with
treating comedones and millia, whilst
brightening the complexion The
treatment also assists to reduce the
appearance of visible pores and acne
scarring. It is followed by a stem cell-
boosting mask and finished off with
multifunctional day cream.
Also from Skin Doctors, T-Zone
combines four ingredients ideal for
skin that is prone to oiliness and acne
in the T-Zone area. The innovation is
in the peptide technology used to
combat problem prone skin. R
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
44 acne treatments
Vitamin AQanita Jacobs, Environ’s education
manager, would advise an acne
client to start with Environ Vitamin A
moisturisers as soon as possible.
“Should the client be using Vitamin
A medication, orally or topically, or any
medication to treat their skin, we may
adapt the skincare regime and product
recommendations. We recommend
that the client then proceeds with a
course of Environ Cool Peel and DF
treatments, supported with Environ
homecare such as a suitable cleanser
and toner, Vitamin A moisturiser
(following Environ’s unique step-up
system) and RAD SPF 15.
“In addition to this the Colostrum
Gel and Balancing Masque would
be ideal options to boost the skin’s
immunity and healing processes.
We would also recommend micro-
exfoliation and intense hydration
respectively,” states Jacobs.
Anti-inflammatoryJacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes
that when treating acne, one must be
able to eliminate inflammation. “By
doing so one is more than half way to
eliminating and then controlling the
problem. Irritation and inflammation
also lead to hyperpigmentation, often
seen in young acne sufferers.
“The red, inflamed and swollen
skin of an acne sufferer can be
reduced dramatically and very
quickly with new technology, both
natural and biomimetic (synthesised
and mimicking nature) actives that
provide maximum efficacy without
side effects.”
Faucitt advises therapists to look
out for the following ingredients:
Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), Vitamin
B Complex, Vitamin C; Acnacidol (a
synthesised biomimetic version of
a hydroxyl acid naturally present in
Royal Jelly); Sepicontrol (Capryloyl
Glycine, Sarcosine and Cinnamomum
Zeylanicum Bark Extract); Meadow-
sweet; Biomimetic Tripeptide Peeling
(Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine
Acetate); Black Tea; Dermasensitive
(Octyldodecyl Myristate (and)
Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract); Nano
technology Centella Asiatica Extract;
Yeast Beta Glucan; Passionflower;
Masterwort; and Salicylic Acid.
RégimA’s ‘Turbo Cosmetic’ regime
combines five new technologies. “This
comprises either a serum or cream
containing Meadowsweet, which
helps normalise peaks in testosterone
and regulates sebum secretion. It is
particularly beneficial for hormonal
breakouts. Our Techno-5 Resurfacer
has proven to be an excellent anti-
acne product,” explains Faucitt.
‘Moody’ skinBy recognising that everyone’s skin has
a unique mood and that not everyone
responds to the same products and
treatments, Juliette Armand’s range of
personalised skincare offers tailor-
made solutions and a wide variety of
offerings to treat all skin moods.
Included in the Juliette Armand
range are: Clarifying Lotion; Clarifying
Foaming Wash; Clarifying Mask; Argile
Scrub Mask; Lipocontrol Hydra Gel;
and Clarity Therapy Cream.
Clean awayDermalogica Clear Start was created
specifically for teenagers and
young adults and utilises medicated
ingredients and soothing botanicals
to deliver real results.
The Skin Soothing Hydrating Lotion
is a lightweight moisturiser that
addresses dehydrated and breakout-
irritated skin. Moisturising, plant-
based Squalane softens and nourishes,
while hyaluronic acid provides instant
relief to skin dehydration. Gentle
botanicals including ginger, orange
and grapefruit soothe and protect the
skin.
Dermalogica’s Blackhead Clearing
Pore Control Scrub contains purifying
bentonite clay, which absorbs excess
oil and debris from skin, and helps to
control shine. Refreshing botanicals
45
Professional Beauty May 2016
acne treatments
reinvigorate skin. Microbeads scrub away, clogging
dead skin cells and deep cleaning pores and blackheads,
leaving the skin clear and smooth. It is formulated
with gentle botanicals including Tea Tree, Menthol and
Meadowsweet, known to soothe and cool skin.
Breakout Clearing Emergency Spot Fix is a powerful
concentrated gel that is applied directly onto individual
breakouts. Benzoyl Peroxide kills breakout-causing
bacteria deep within pores. Seven gentle botanicals,
including Camellia Sinensis, Lavender and Tea Tree,
are included in the formula for their ability to calm skin
irritation and redness.
Laser & IPLsThe Hitech Group offers
active acne clearance
treatments in the
form of Viora systems
from Medilase and
Lumenis IPL (Intense
Pulsed Light) from
Hitech Lasers, as well
as laser and IPL acne
scar treatments from
Lumenis.
Viora, an Israel-based
company, developed its
trademarked Smooth
protocol, which delivers
results through the
use of multiple devices
and more effective
combination protocols.
Viora’s IPL and laser light therapies kill acne bacteria,
and decrease inflammation. Specifically, Viora’s Smooth
reduces the formation and appearance of blemishes,
while natural active antibacterial ingredients help
prevent bacterial culture. This holistic approach was
developed specifically for use with Viora’s Infusion,
providing professionals with a fresh approach to skin
care.
The Lumenis non-ablative acne solution is treatment
with its trademarked ResurFX, which, according to
Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier, is the only true fractional
non-ablative technology available.
“Unlike other fractional technologies, ResurFX
only needs one pass to be effective, saving time and
protecting the patient’s skin,” she continues. “ResurFX
uses a 1565nm fibre laser and a very advanced scanner,
which enables the user to choose from more than 600
combinations of shape, size and density options, for
optimal treatment results.
“The CoolScan scanner uses a proprietary algorithm
that controls the placement of each fractional spot ad
this protects the tissue from heat accumulation and
overheating. For skin protection and patient comfort,
the ResurFX hand piece is equipped with continuous
contact cooling. Since the treatment does not involve
tissue evaporation or ablation, treatment downtime is
significantly reduced, which is also why it is preferred
over ablative treatments by many patients.” PB
Care for Compromised Skin
RESURFACINGBALM
INTENSIVESCAR
REPAIRINTENSIVESCAR
REPAIRRESURFACING
BALM
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
product focus – lip treatments
46
Lip serviceSMooTh SooThEMongongo Lip Butter
from Kalahari is rich in
essential phyto fatty
acids and vitamins.
This soothing lip butter
nourishes dry lips and
prevents chapping.
The Mongongo seed
butter offers natural
protection against
harmful UV rays
and leaves the lips
noticeably smoother.
011 656 1122
Mini treatmentEve Taylor has announced the launch of its mini
treatment – Perfect Pout! Lip Treatment. This
treatment focuses on the often neglected lip area to
smooth, soften, hydrate, plump and protect. It uses
newly developed specialised techniques combined
with highly active natural-based products.
+44 (0)1733 260161
BiG BoostJuliette Armand’s Lip Facial
is designed to treat your
client’s delicate lip contour.
The treatment comprises
hyaluronic acid to help plump
up the lips and minimise
the appearance of fine lines.
A duo mask combination
instantly hydrates and boosts
circulation, leaving the client
with satin-soft, lush lips.
011 033 0500
In an era when the ideal mouth contour is considered to be the lips of movie star Angelina Jolie, clients are looking for products that will improve the fullness of the mouth area, and leave the lips feeling smooth and silky.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
47 product focus – lip treatments
All a-glowGlo-minerals Lip Plumper
is infused with spheres
of Marine Collagen
Atelocollgen. These
spheres work to plump
lips by trapping water
and swelling, thus
providing volume to the
skin’s structures. Pepper-
derived Capsicum Extract
stimulates lips, resulting in
a ‘tingling’ sensation and
rosy tint.
021 552 6999
Plumped upSuitable for fine lines on the lips and
pronounced wrinkles around the mouth area,
Babor’s Derma Cellular Anti-Wrinkle Booster for
Lips works by plumping lip volume internally and by
stimulating the skin’s own hyaluronic acid synthesis,
leaving the lip area visibly smoother. It is ideal for
use in conjunction with subcutaneous injections.
011 467 0110
Instantaneous EFFECTLonsdaleite Instant Lip Plumper
immediately delivers a super boost and
alleviates lines and crinkles around the
mouth. The product uses advanced
hyaluronic spheres and includes a
peptide to extend and increase the
smoothness of the lips and volume
over time, by stimulating an increase in
collagen and hyaluronic acid.
082 958 1872
All in the contoursPhytomer’s Youth Contour
Smoothing Eye and
Lip Cream is an ultra-
moisturising, creamy textured
product that plumps the lip
area and smooths wrinkles.
It contains Dilsea Carnosa
extract, Marine Pro-Collagen,
Pheohydrane (Laminaria
digitata) and Phytomer’s
flagship ingredient, Oligomer.
011 486 4904
Date:28 & 29 August 2016
Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre
Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 18h00Monday 10h00 – 17h00
Register now for your fRee ticket and save the R250 entry fee.
Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair
Increase your knowledge
• Stage Demos • Hair Competition • Exhibitor Demos✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions
Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed.Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top ndustry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creatively translate in a successful business.
the event for your professional hair business
www.salonafrica.co.za
the time for cHAnge is here!
inspiring
today’s
hairdresser
SA hair ad.indd 1 2016/04/19 11:52 AM
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
hair news
49
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news
from the hair front.
the thicker, the betterNioxin’s Diaboost Thickening
Xtrafusion Treatment is an
advanced leave-in treatment
that can be used to increase
the thickness of each strand
of hair, making your mane
more manageable and full.
It also protects your hair
against damage. This product
recently won Best Hair
Treatment at Ireland’s Xposé
Beauty Awards.
0860 104 109
hold fastMoroccanoil Luminous Hairspray
Strong is a flexible hairspray for
building long-lasting styles, with a
movable yet strong hold. Its lightweight
and workable finishing formula blankets
hair in a reflective shield of shine that
fights fizz and humidity yet brushes out
easily and leaves no sticky residue.
011 305 1600
Frizz be gone!Inoar’s Argan Oil Thermaliss is a
chemical-free, de-frizzing balm that
works to make hair increasingly
straight, while protecting it from
heat styling. Infused with Inoar’s
Argan Oil, known for its anti-frizz
effect, frequent use of Thermoliss
guarantees hair with intense shine
and progressive results.
012 346 1721
In synergyThe SynergiCare Instant Smooth range from Itely Hair
Fashion is specifically designed to tackle the causes of
frizz, whether the hair is naturally coarse or has a curly
texture that is prone to frizz. With Instant Smooth, hair
looks and feels visibly different after a single application.
011 305 1600
Enhances the breast shape! Natural and feminine!This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional fi t that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (fi ts up to a F cup).
VOTED 2006 – 2010BODY WRAP OF THE YEAR
• Brings Relief to tired legs – ideal for fl ights.• All sheer double cover Lycra.• Full boarded fl at seams cotton gusset.
AVAILABLE IN NUDE, NERO, BRONZE AND ASFALTO (S-M-L-XL)
USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CONTOUR RESULTS
BODY SHAPERS-M-L-XL-XXL- XXXL
CONTOURINGHEALTH BELTS-M-L-XXL
The all day, everyday solution to quick and easy centimetre loss and body contouring.The Neoprene garments focus on specifi c parts of the body. Contouring health belt consists of 16 magnets sewn into the superior quality Neoprene lycra.
USE WITHPATRICIA CLARKEGELTO SPEED UPCENTIMETRE LOSS.
THONG HIGH WAIST CONTROL G -STRING S-M-L-XL
BODYSUIT S-M-L-XL
MIDI SHAPER 44820 S-M-L-XL
CAPRICE KNEE SHAPER 44850 S-M-L-XL
CENTRO SHAPEWEAR GARMENT S-M-L-XL
Anti Cellulite all day Firm Body Contour. Seamless, Latex Spandex ultralight shapewear. Hygienic. ALLERGY FREE! Used by plastic surgeons after surgery. USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CENTIMETRE LOSS.
STRAPLESS UNDERWIRE BRA SLIP S-M-L-XL
LOSE 18-80CM
IN 90 MINUTES
WITH THE AMAZING BODY WRAP
For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • [email protected] • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032
PC
FP
0401
3
VEST MID-SLEEVES-M-L-XL
ARM COMPRESSION MID-SLEEVES-M-L-XL
CONTOURING HEALTH BELT 30CMS-M-L-XL-XXL
• Centimetre loss is due to the combination of the Patricia Clarke contouring gel & bandages.
• The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients contained targets the toxins in the adipose tissue.
• It breaks down the fatty tissue which is absorbed through the lymph duct and finally passes through the body.
• The active ingredients in the contouring gel work in synergy to improve the textureof the skin, helping to avoid a spongy appearance.
• Home care garments used in conjunction with the body contouring gel offersamazing centimetre loss.
CALL USFOR MORE
INFO & AVAILABLE
SIZES
�S�I�M�O�N�E� �P�E�R�E�L�E� �–� �A�N�D�O�R�A� �B�R�A
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
51 body detox treatments
Taking the cureInfinitely preferably to going on a juice diet for several days at a time in order to rid the body of toxins, in-salon body detoxifying treatments should be an essential item on any treatment menu and a fairly easy sell to clients, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Typically body detox treatments
include some sort of exfoliation
to rid the skin of dead cells,
followed by the application
of active ingredients, usually
in the form of mud or a wrap. Sometimes
a massage that focuses on the pressure
points within the body is included, to help
eliminate environmental and dietary toxins.
Hydro facilities such as steam or baths can
be incorporated if the treatment is offered in
spas. Body detox treatments are also often an
important part of slimming programmes and
cellulite treatments.
Lilian Terry International (LTI) has two
specific detox products – its Detoxifying Body
Wrap as well as the Detoxifying Bath Oil.
Says LTI general manager, Carli Argirova:
“Our Detoxifying Body Wrap has been
designed to accelerate the removal of
foreign chemicals such as air pollutants,
chemical pesticides and to decrease
the damaging effect of free radicals. It’s
an excellent treatment for people who
are exposed to high levels of stress and
pollution and those who suffer from lack
of energy due to unhealthy lifestyles and
lack of exercise.”
Key ingredients include sun-dried,
naturally pigmented yellow clay rich
in copper; sulphur and iron. These
minerals improve circulation and oxygen
penetration to connective tissue, maintain
and improve the health of blood vessels
and accelerate the excretion of toxic
wastes. R
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
52 body detox treatments
The LTI Detoxifying Bath
Oil stimulates the process of
detoxification, whilst moisturising the
skin. Containing essential oils such as
grapefruit and lavender, this product
comes in both a professional size for
use in spa/jet baths, as well as a retail
size for clients to take home and enjoy.
From the desertKalahari’s Baobab Phyto Acid
Treatment includes the company’s
new Phyto Compounding System,
which provides exceptional skin
detoxifying results by incorporating
100% organic, unadjusted Phyto Acids
and Vegetable Enzymes.
“The client will experience
visible brightening, firming and
detexturisation with these highly
effective professional treatments,”
says Kalahari founder, Carina Franck.
“For home care following the
treatment, we offer Phyto Facial Mist,
which is fortified with Cell Detox,
a new phyto-effective extract that
assists your skin’s natural detoxifying
processes, while giving a natural boost
to tired-looking skin. Together with
our superior botanical extracts,
this refreshing mist will improve
your complexion, restore radiance and
reduce the signs of premature ageing.”
Body wrapThe technique of body wrap or
bandaging is one of the simplest
methods of body detoxification,
according to Christelle Newsum,
senior consultant at Symphony
Health cc T/A Patricia Clarke.
“This technique is used to
distribute the special plant-based
Patricia Clarke Contouring Gel to the
problem areas,” says Newsum. “The
body is then bound with our special
compression bandages. After a period
of 60 minutes, the gel permeates the
connective tissues, activates lymphatic
drainage and stimulates circulation.
We stress to the therapist that this
is not a ‘sweat it out’ treatment, nor
is it the type of slimming cure where
the weight is fleetingly lost through
profuse perspiration and regained
after a glass of water. In fact, we urge
clients to drink plenty of water after
the treatment as this assists in further
detoxing of the body.”
She explains that the body
remains dry throughout the wrap
treatments and, as intracellular fluids
are mobilised, the diuretic properties
assist in the elimination of cellulite
and toxins. Flab and ‘soft fat’ respond
particularly well to wrapping since,
depending on the client’s resilience,
the flesh can be bound very tightly
to ‘lift’ the sagging part of the body.
There is no need for the client to
shower after the treatment.
“The success of the system is due
to the properly formulated suspension
of specially selected elements and
plant extracts which complement
each other and act in synergy to
bring about 18-80 centimetre loss in
60 minutes. The centimetre loss is
an overall loss as measurements are
taken from the bust through to the
ankles. The Patricia Clarke Contouring
Gel contains 27 different plant
extracts with strengthening, diuretic
and stabilising properties.
“Our compression bandages are
elasticised and fasten with a Velcro
attachment. Compression bandages
are very useful for reducing swelling;
these bandages are made in different
sizes to accommodate different parts
of the body. Compression bandages
reduce swelling by aiding your veins to
return excess fluid to your circulation.”
Exfoliating energyMatsiMela Home Spa believes in the
benefit of exfoliation and has designed
specific exfoliation products to be
combined in an array of treatments.
The focus is on removing dead skin
cells and increasing circulation and
lymphatic flow, as well as hydration.
The Exfoliating Mud Scrub contains
natural silica. Its small particle
size gives a smooth and polished
exfoliation and can even be applied
onto the face.
As its name suggests, the Sugar
Scrub is a blend of fine sugar, deeply
moisturising oils, essential oils and
fine sugar. It is excellent for an all over
body exfoliation.
Kalahari Salt Scrub contains pure
natural Kalahari salt and a decadent
blend of fragrance and essential oils
enriched with Jojoba oil. Excellent for
all over body exfoliation, the rough
Pic: Kalahari
Pic
: Sym
pho
ny H
ealt
h
53 body detox treatments
texture of these pure salts stimulates
the superficial blood circulation and
removes dead skin cells. This promotes
cellular renewal and increased
penetration of the essential oils.
Following the all over body
exfoliation, the MatsiMela Pure Rose
Clay is recommended for its purifying,
nourishing and restorative action. It is
made from the finest quality clay and
is rich in minerals and trace elements
such as magnesium, iron oxides,
aluminium, manganese, silica and
calcium. The rose clay is sun-dried.
Pearls of wisdom Black Pearl has two detoxifying
masks in its arsenal. The Prestige G
Mask is a black mud mask containing
crushed Tahitian black pearl, hydrating
seaweed, and 27 mineral salts
incorporated with amino acids.
“This is applied to the skin and
works in three amazing ways with the
skin,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s
Michelle Roberts. “While applying
the mask it begins to exfoliate the
skin, as it is left upon the skin as a
mask. It is then removed with a semi-
precious Natural stone, which draws
out all impurities and leaves behind
a beautiful and fine Japanese Oil to
hydrate and nourish the skin.”
She notes that the Black Pearl
Thermal Mask incorporates ‘a
phenomenal ingredient’ called Zeolite,
which is integrated with drops of
water onto the skin. The zeolite and
water create a heat catalytic reaction,
allowing the skin to open and purge all
of the negative toxins and absorb the
healing Black Pearl ingredients.
Potent combinationJuliette Armand’s Detox Body Therapy
is a 60-minute treatment that aims
to decongest the body and improve
circulation, and to achieve maximum
results in slimming and cellulite
therapies. It combines the power of
seaweed and plant extracts. PB
C
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Milk Solutions Pro Beauty Softening Socks Ad A4 for repro.pdf 1 2016/03/29 20:33
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
I have heard a lot of people make
the comment that nails aren’t
rocket science, meaning that doing
nails is easy and requires only
common sense. Well, it may not be
rocket science in the true meaning of the
phrase, but there certainly is a science to
nails and there is so much more to it than
just providing a nail service.
It is not just your skill that is important
in ensuring you provide a good and
professional service, but most importantly
having a vast knowledge and a good, sound
understanding about everything that there
is to know about nails and nail products.
No matter if you’re doing basic
manicures, enhancements, nail coatings or
nail art, it all goes back to something I am so
passionate about and that is education. This
encompasses anatomy and what makes
up the natural nail, to the chemistry of nail
products.
Without the necessary knowledge and
understanding of how everything works, a
nail technician will not know what they are
working with, or how to perform a service
effectively to make sure their clients gain
maximum benefit from the service. Most
importantly, they also need to know how
to identify and solve problems with service
breakdown, should they occur. A successful
nail technician is not only someone who is
able to offer a professional and outstanding
service result, but should also be able
when the science behind nails is fully understood,
everything about what you do as a nail tech, and how you
do it, becomes clear, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
The science of NAILS
55 nails
R
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
56
to answer any questions and offer
expert advice and make the necessary
recommendations, so that a client is
able to maintain their service, nails
and skin in the best condition.
Incorrect terminologyUsing the correct terminology when
referring to anything to do with nails
and nail products is the first most
important step to being a successful
nail professional.
Here is what internationally
renowned product chemist, Doug
Schoon, wrote in an article for NAILS magazine, called, Where is the cuticle? “Some may believe it’s doesn’t matter
if we use the correct terminology, but
I don’t understand this thinking. One
of the hallmarks of any profession is
the use of proper terminology. Would
you want your blood drawn by a
nurse who didn’t know the difference
between your veins and arteries?
How much faith would you have in
a plumber who constantly referred
to the dishwasher as a toilet? Of
course, we would find it difficult to
respect them, despite their skills.
Using proper terminology prevents
confusion and misunderstanding, as
well as raises professional standards.”
Natural nail anatomyIt’s amazing how many people still
believe that the natural nail breathes
and that it can repair itself. If you
knew more about the anatomy of the
natural nail, you would know that this
is not true and that the nail unit is in
fact very intricate and quite complex
in its make-up and chemistry. The
nail plate is actually made of keratin
– a network of protein chains made
up of amino acids, which means
it is a non-living substance. The
nail bed to which the nail plate is
attached, is very much alive and is
full of capillaries and nerve endings
and has an important function,
but then again there is the matrix,
eponychium, hyponychium, proximal
nail fold, sole horn, cuticle and lunula,
which all have their own function
and purpose. Looking a little deeper
into what makes up the natural nail
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
57 nails
and understanding the scientific
meaning of these terms can help
nail technicians take better care of
their clients’ nails.
Diseases & disordersSo often a fungal infection is
mistaken for a bacterial infection
and vice versa. Many other diseases
and disorders, which are thought to
be contagious, actually aren’t and
those which are, can sometimes be
handled with little care. If you don’t
know anything about this most
important topic you could end up
spreading a contagious condition
and causing potential harm.
Product science & technologyThrough the years product chemists
have constantly strived to innovate
and formulate products, improving
the science and technology behind
them, bringing them to the forefront
of the industry. Today’s product
technology is extremely high
tech and advanced, resulting in a
multitude of professional products,
which are unique and different from
one another, giving them the edge
in the industry.
Nail polishes, nail enhancement
systems and gel polishes are related
to the same chemical family and are
inevitably all made from acrylics, but
work on different principles when
bonding together. It is therefore
important to understand these
systems and what differentiates them
from one another and the process by
which they become a solid durable
coating.
With all nail coatings and
systems there are advantages and
disadvantages, however there are
ways and means of overcoming
them, as long as the nail technician
has the knowledge and skill to
identify problems and solve them
wthout causing harm or damage to
themselves or their clients.
Product application procedures & stepsProduct procedures, steps and
protocols are in place for a very good
reason, to guide the nail technician.
When learning certain techniques
be sure to stick to them and master
them as they are important in
ensuring you achieve the correct and
desired results.
Brand & product integrityMany nail techs make the fatal
mistake of thinking that all nail
products are created equal. There
are many good professional products
and brands available nowadays, but
don’t be mistaken in thinking that
you can mix and match products
from different brands. Products
and systems are manufactured
to be chemically compatible with
one another, so as to get the best
possible results. For example, when
using a base coat, nail polish colour
and top coat, they should all be from
the same brand. The same is true of
an enhancement system – you can’t
use liquid monomer from one brand
and polymer powder from another,
and the same goes for gels, which
are made specifically to be used with
either an LED or UV lamp.
Plenty of research goes into the
development of products in order
to get the best results, with each
having their own specific purpose
and unique qualities, all specially
formulated to complement and work
in synergy with one another.
After care advice & recommendationsYour clients know more than you
think, however, sometimes they think
they know what’s best for them,
which can prove challenging to deal
with. How you deal with the situation
is going to make all the difference in
how the client perceives you. As the
nail professional you need to portray
professionalism on every level. Don’t
guess or thumb suck information,
make sure your information is factual
and makes sense and is to the best
benefit of the service and client, and
never do anything which goes against
your professional know-how.
Nail services and products should
rarely cause problems no matter
what service is conducted, whether
natural nail care, nail enhancement
or nail coating services. Potential
problems can be avoided by
using high quality products and
proper procedures, according to
manufacturers’ instructions and
protocols. Remember to always set
a good example, by ensuring your
services are safe, sanitary and of a
high professional standard. A skilled,
knowledgeable and professional nail
technician can make all the difference.
There is still so much potential
for growth and advancement in
our industry and it is up to us as
professionals to stand together and
to collaborate to keep it a healthy
and professional one. It is everyone’s
professional responsibility to be
involved, informed and well educated
and to make sure that we carry that
message through.
For our industry to grow and
prosper we have to make sure we
stay up to date with growing trends,
techniques, advancement in product
technology and most importantly,
education.
In conclusion, if you know more
about your nail chemistry and the
science behind it, there is no doubt
that you will be able to continue
to provide the best and most pro-
fessional services to your clients. PB
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: [email protected]
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
58 product news
In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products.
r
r
Classic serumUnlike cosmetic-grade skincare products, Crème
Classique’s new Advanced Anti-Ageing Cell
Repair Serum is infused with Matrixyl, which is
scientifically and clinically formulated to provide
skin with a long term anti-ageing solution. The
product is endorsed by respected Pretoria skin
specialist, Dr Hardie De Beer.
012 343 3981
Rousing relaunchDoctor Babor Repair Cellular
marks the first of the incredibly
impactful Dr Babor ranges
to be relaunched. It delivers
rapid, visible and measurable
results more effectively,
more precisely and more
innovatively than ever before.
This is thanks to skin research
at a cellular level. The Biogen
Plant extract strengthens each
single skin cell.
011 467 0110
r
over the rainbowRainbow Bath & Beauty has changed the
formulation of its salt body scrubs to contain 25%
shea butter, spelling out a more nourishing scrub
that is not overly abrasive. The sea salts used are
hand harvested and solar dried. Body scrubs are
available in vanilla, tea tree, rose, peppermint and
grapefruit and in three sizes.
074 379 9452
r
Concentrated retinolThe Exuviance Super Retinol
Concentrate from NeoStrata
was specifically created to defy
gravity and helps to firm and
smooth wrinkles and texture.
Time-release encapsulated pure
retinol combined with patented
NeoGlucosamine synergistically
supercharges the volumising,
firming and pigment-evening
effects.
011 545 9300
+27 840 1860 | www.chidesk.co.za
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Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
What if I could
freeze your facial
muscles so that
your wrinkles
disappear, but I
do not inject a purified poison into
your lovely face? What if you were
still able to use your muscles for facial
expression … without forming lines?
Frotox (‘Iovera’ or ‘Coldtox’)
promises to do just that. When you
put your hand into a bucket of ice,
your fingers become numb and
hard to move – this is the effect of
extreme cold on muscles, also called
‘cryoneuromodulation’.
Smart scientists have bottled this
nifty effect into a pen-like device
that delivers an intense 30-second
‘cold jolt’ that shocks the nerve into
a numb state for up to four months.
Your muscles relax completely and
‘Abracadabra!’ wrinkles disappear
immediately, as opposed to purified
botulinum toxin, that takes between
four and 14 days to reach full effect.
Medical effectsThis cryoneuromodulation technology
has been used for many decades
in the medical field of neurology to
relieve chronic pain. It is, however, a
highly specialised procedure, and is
only administered by doctors with the
proper certification.
The device is FDA-cleared in the
US for treatment of headaches, and
in Europe it is being used off-label as
an anti-aging anti-wrinkle treatment
in the realms of plastic surgery and
aesthetic medicine.
The ‘nitty-gritty’ mechanicsThis pen-like device is loaded with a
liquid nitrogen cartridge before use,
and, at the touch of a button, the
circulation of nitrogen gas within the
device creates a precise-cold-zone at
the smart-needle tip, which is made
of closed-end needles, so nothing
comes out of it.
A TENS (Trans-cutaneous Elec-
trical Nerve Stimulation) machine is
used to pinpoint the target nerves,
before the precision-chill can be
administered to numb these nerves.
After the nerves are pinpointed,
a local anaesthetic (lidocaine) is
injected to numb the area and the
treatment probe is injected at each
marked site (an average of about four
on each temple) to zap the nerves
into submission.
Side effects So far, there has been no report
of long-term side effects or any
dangers from having the treatment.
As no toxins are used, this treatment
is predicted to be extremely safe.
Usual side effects associated with the
treatment are mostly short-lived, just
The CHILL drill Described as ‘The Ice wand’, Frotox is a toxin-free alternative to botulinum jabs, writes Dr Janine Olivier.
60 medical aesthetics
61 medical aesthetics
Dr Janine Olivier obtained her MBChB in 2006, and has been practising aesthetic medicine and publishing in the field since 2009. Dr Olivier is a member of the American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine (AAAM) and is currently enrolled in a Masters of Medicine at the University of Pretoria in Chemical Pathology. She serves as medical advisor to HuidAesthetic in Waterkloof Heights, Pretoria. Dr Olivier has a clinical and scientific interest in the bio-molecular basis of the ageing process, chemistry of treatment modalities and cosmeceutical composition.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016
Ease of availability of approved product and certified medical practitioners.
Purified Botulinum Toxin A is versatile and can be injected into multiple sites of face and body, while Frotox offers limited treatment area options.
Botulinum neuromodulator has years of studies backing it up and a great track record in aesthetics and is safe when administered by a registered, certified medical doctor.
Botulinum Toxin Type A is
contraindicated in patients with
known hypersensitivity
including
aminoglycosides
or curare-like
compounds
Eaton-Lambert
syndrome or
Myasthenia gravis
Botulinum Toxin
Type A may interact
with medications that
affect neuromuscular
transmissions
If there is infection at the
proposed site of injection
who are pregnant
(pregnancy category B3)
Frotox vs Botox As the cool new option in the aesthetic
world, Frotox is a wonderful alternative
that gives you a choice when you want
to get rid of the nasties. But, in reality,
the quiet, transparent botulinum toxin
A still reigns supreme in the anti-aging
arena. It is easily accessible and most
aesthetic practitioners are certified
to provide this treatment, plus it is
affordable.
This faithful treatment is versatile
and can be injected into multiple
sites of the face and body, while
Frotox offers limited treatment area
options. Besides, we have years of
data and studies backing this purified
neuromodulator’s side-effects and
safety profile and US doctors are
always cautious and sceptical about
using anything without a proven track
record.
Mirror, mirror on the wall… So, I happily wave around my insulin
syringe with purified neurotoxin and
‘Abracadabra!’ wrinkles be gone! They
really are gone, even if it takes a few
days to show. It is easily available
and less precision is necessary when
delivering the toxin than the absolute
accuracy required with Frotox, which
can leave you in a numb nightmare
when the wrong muscle is frozen.
So, ‘chillax’! – we still have
botulinum jabs with a proven track
record and a practitioner near your
home. PB
WHO CANNOT TAkE BOTULINUM TOXIN INJECTIONS?
like any other aesthetics procedure
involving needles, and include
bleeding, bruising and swelling.
Will Frotox replace facial creams in the future? Frotox is a cool new choice for
people who don’t want to inject toxin
into their faces. It is aimed to help
people who want to reduce dynamic
forehead wrinkles without the use
of toxins, or those who cannot have
Botox due to other medical reasons.
However, it does not hydrate the
skin, clean the skin or introduce anti-
ageing cosmoceutical molecules
into the skin for a plump healthy and
glowing complexion, so the realm
of cosmeceuticals is still safe in my
opinion.
Argireline is the cosmeceutical
product that has been likened to
‘Botox in a tub’. Acetyl hexapeptide-3
is a synthetic anti-wrinkle cosmetics
ingredient. It is a peptide which is a
fragment of SNAP-25, a substrate
of Botulinum toxin (Botox). Acetyl
hexapeptide-3 is marketed as
Argireline by the Barcelona-based
research laboratory Lipotec. It is
the blending of these Argireline
peptides in creams that attempts to
decrease the visible effects of ageing
by reducing the deep wrinkles and
lines around the eyes and forehead.
Chemically, when you apply an
Argireline peptide to specific areas,
it inhibits the reactions that cause
muscles to move or contract. But
there are no long-term studies to
prove the efficacy of the product
and the effect, sadly, is brief and less
effective than the injections.
Frotox has an instant effect and is very cool... but Botox® still reigns supreme in the aesthetic world due to:
Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
62 saahsp
SAAHSP is a non-profit organisation, seeking to
further the health and skincare profession in South
Africa, as well as the interests of individuals engaged
in this profession and the public interest.
Process followed for Professional Body RecognitionIn 2011 SAQA (South African Qualification Authority)
introduced Professional Associations/Professional Bodies;
SAAHSP applied to represent the health & skincare industry.
On 19 March 2013, SAQA formally registered SAAHSP
as the Non-Statutory Professional body for the Beauty,
Health and Skincare and Somatology industry. SAAHSP
underwent its first successful midterm evaluation in 2015.
SAAHSP met the following criteria:1. A legally constituted entity with the necessary human
and financial resources, with staff and income to run a
viable organisation.
2. Governed by a constitution, statute or charter: in the
process of applying SAAHSP operated with a constitution
registered as a Section 21 Company, but submitted its
Company Memorandum of Incorporation, which was
accepted and filed on 29 October 2015.
3. Protect the public in relation to the service provided by
its members and the associate risk – SAAHSP has done
this for many years.
4. Develop, award, monitor and revoke professional
designations in terms of its own rules, legislation and/or
international conventions.
5. Submit data in terms of designated member to upload
onto the NLRD.
6. Set criteria, promote and monitor CPD.
7. Publish a Code of Ethics.
How were the designations confirmed and registered?Even though a designation is NOT a qualification, it has to
be linked to a qualification. A qualification is a programme
consisting of 120 credits or more (1 year).
After evaluating the various qualifications listed on the
NQF (National Qualification Framework), the following
designations were confirmed and registered:
Nail Technologist: 1 year of study or equivalent with
Portfolio of Evidence (Qualification 80646)
Cidesco Section South Africa
SAAHSP Professional Body recognition
Beauty Technologist: 1 year of study (Qualification
80646)
Beauty Therapist: 2 years of study (Qualification 58310)
Somatologist: 3 years of study and higher (3 year
Diploma/ BTEC Degree or Equivalent)
These designations are registered to SAAHSP
Professional Body AHSP849 – the official acronym used
for our Professional Body.
Any individual who uses these titles /designations
must subscribe to the Professional Body’s Code of Ethics
and Code of Conduct. As a Professional Body it is
SAAHSP’s statutory responsibility to police/guard/protect
the public and the profession as a whole. This will ensure
that our industry is self-regulatory and through the CPD
process, we will elevate our industry to the professional
standard that we pride ourselves on.
SAAHSP Professional Body Committee – call for expertsSAHSP has issued an Invitation to Stakeholders to form
part of the SAAHSP Professional Body.
This committee will ensure that the statutory functions
of the Professional Body so delegated by SAQA and
governed by the NQF ACT are adhered to. The committee
will comprise two SAAHSP Board members holding the
Professional Body Portfolio, Secretary, Education Bodies,
Employee Representative, Employer Representative,
Industry Representative and Governmental Representatives
from Services SETA, DHET, CHE and QCTO.
SAAHSP requires nominations for Employee,
Employer and Industry Representatives. Nominations will
be processed by the Professional Body board members,
Education Chair and Education Committee.
CLOSING DATE FOR NOMINATIONS: 29 April 2016
Contact Joelette Theron [email protected]
or 011 675 6519
South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SAAHSP Professional Body receives certificate from Jody Cedras SAQA (middle) accepted by Menna kleine (President) and Joelette Theron (Professional Body and Education Facilitator)
On 31 March 2016, sAAHsP, the official professional body for the industry since 2013, was awarded the sAAHsP Professional Body Recognition Certificate.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2016
63
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Professional Beauty May 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za
64 classifieds
Chrissanthie Cosmetics Tel: (011) 593 3243 * e-mail: [email protected]: www.chrissanthie.com
Chrissanthie Eye Care Range by Dr ChrissieChrissanthie Eye Care Range is the only South African aftercare range
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