Professional Beauty GCC - May 2016

May 2016

REFRESH & REVAMP

Is it time to redesign your spa?

First impressionsHow welcoming is your reception?

Just the businessThe story behind truly bespoke spa menus

nailnittygrittyThe technology behind nail polish

professionalbeauty.ae

1launch analysis

Professional Beauty GCC May 2016


2business trends



3launch analysis


May 2016

REFRESH & REVAMP

Is it time to

redesign your spa?

First impressionsHow welcoming

is your reception?

Just the businessThe story behind

truly bespoke spa menus

nailnittygrittynittygrittynittygrittynittyThe technology behind nail polish

PROFEStSIO

NALBEA

UTYG

CC

SPA DESIG

N • N

AILS • BESPOKE M

ENU

S • RECEPTION

SKILLS

MAY 2016


6business trends



NEWS All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa


7news

LivNordic Spa launches in Dubai

Located in the Cayan Tower in

Dubai Marina, the spa, which

is the result of a partner-

ship between Raison d’Etre

and Cayan Hospitality (a subsidiary

of the Cayan Group), is delivering an

experience focused entirely on Nordic

wellbeing traditions.

LivNordic Spa provides holistic

treatments and intuitive services

derived from the health and beauty

secrets of Nordic countries. A Nordic

bathing treatment is among the high-

lights and combines spells in the sauna

with quick icy dips.

Commenting on the inspiration

behind the LivNordic concept, spa

director, Carolina Moquist, says:

“We believe that everybody has

a right to enjoy life and have

access to the tools to do so.

LivNordic pursues holistic

wellbeing by drawing on the rich

resources that the Nordic culture,

both traditional as well as contem-

porary, has to offer today. Inspired

by a natural sense of stillness,

innovative creativity and deep

abiding love for nature, our LivNordic

spas offer a space where you are invited

to engage with the dynamics that

allow for a balanced and healthy lifestyle

anywhere in the world – the Nordic way.”

In parallel to the spa treatment

menu, guests can also enjoy a

selection of Nordic organic smoothies,

drinks, snacks and juice blends,

with fairtrade and locally sourced

ingredients.

The spa also features a shop

retailing products that are used

throughout the treatments.

To celebrate the launch of the Kerasilk

range, Madi International teamed up

with Gloss salon in Dubai and Orchid

Beauty Boutique at Sharjah Ladies

Club for two exclusive client events.

The events were carefully curated

with drinks, cupcakes and biscuits

co-ordinating with the colours of the

Kerasilk range, while trainers and

marketing staff from Madi were on

hand to provide consultations to clients

and advice to the salons' stylists.

Clients, meanwhile, were given an

opportunity to experience the benefits

of the new Kerasilk line, which is

comprised of four different ranges –

Control, Reconstruct, Repower and

Color.

Incorporating both professional

and retail products for use at home,

Kerasilk is designed as a premium

haircare range that targets specific

concerns such as dryness, damage,

frizziness or limp hair and helps to

revitalise and transform hair.

“Kerasilk is a premium treatment

range is that is composed of only four

treatments, it’s a compact range but

very efficient in results and it covers

all our clients’ needs. Treatments are

relaxing and extremely effective so

we can be assured that clients will

leave happy and satisfied with our

salon,” says Ana Ledinski, spa and

beauty consultant, Sharjah Ladies Club.

“The launch was very successful and it

is one of the most popular treatments in

our salon now,” she adds.

LPG concludes successful participation at Dubai DermaThe French beauty brand showcased

its latest beauty and wellness solutions

at the event on 12 to 14 April at the

Dubai International Convention and

Exhibition Centre.

LPG exhibited its latest anti-ageing

and body slimming machines focused

on delivering medical and aesthetic

treatments at the event.

Ludovic Loffreda, chief executive

officer of LPG Bella Concept in the

Middle East said: “There is increasing

demand for natural dermatology

solutions and we are seeing remarkable

growth in the Middle East region

especially in the UAE market for such

treatments. Our successful exhibition

at Dubai Derma inspires us to grow

the brand in the region and to promote

LPG’s vision of ‘Responsible Beauty’

focusing on 100 per cent natural

anti-ageing and body slimming treat-

ments that respect the human body.”

Madi unveils premium haircare range


8business trends



9launch analysis



10


news

Kerstin Florian chief creative officer Charlene Florian passes away

The spa and beauty industries

have been paying tribute to

Charlene Florian after she

passed away at the end of

March following a battle with cancer.

Charlene, the daughter of Kerstin

Florian, the founder of the skin-

care brand was the company’s chief

creative officer and had played a key

role in growing and promoting the

brand.

In an official statement from the

company, Kerstin Florian International

said: “Charlene was a shining light

within the industry, leading the path

for a healthy, more natural lifestyle and

touching everyone she encountered

with positivity, kindness and joy.”

Charlene’s death comes just a month

after Kerstin Florian’s husband Wayne

passed away.

The statement from the company

also praised Charlene as “inspirational

and vibrant”, stating: “She truly

loved her industry and the close-knit,

extended Kerstin Florian family she

was fortunate enough to work with for

over two decades.”

Charlene’s role within the company

included researching and developing

new products and treatments, and

acting as a spokesperson for the

company. Janette Gladstone-Watts,

founder of The Product House, which

distributes Kerstin Florian products in

the UAE, said: “Charlene touched the

minds and hearts of everyone she met

and her passion and contribution to

health and wellness and to the prod-

ucts she loved, was incredible.

“Seeing her insight, knowledge and

dedication while building the Kerstin

Florian portfolio was remarkable. Her

understanding of technology and the

depth of her research was incredible,

as was her warmth and kindness.”

In its statement, Kerstin Florian

International said of Charlene, who had

two daughters: “We will forever miss

her – her light and legacy lives on in her

children and the beautiful products she

created.”

Ispa honours Geraldine Howard with posthumous Visionary AwardThe International Spa Association

(Ispa) is dedicating its 2016 Visionary

Award to the memory of Aromatherapy

Associates founder Geraldine Howard.

The award, which will be presented

at the Ispa Conference and Expo in Las

Vegas in September, is given annually

“to someone in the spa industry who

has made significant contributions to

the movement of health and wellness”.

The award will be accepted by

Howard’s husband Peter Redman.

Ispa president Lynne McNees said of

Howard, who passed away earlier this

year after a long battle with cancer:

“Geraldine was a trailblazer for

aromatherapy and we are honoured

to celebrate her life and the impact

she made on the community.”

Past winners of the Visionary

Award, which was first presented

in1999, include skincare brand

founders Jane Iredale, Dr Howard

Murad and Horst Rechelbacher,

the founder of Aveda, and

Global Wellness Summit chairman

and chief executive Susie Ellis

– among others.


11launch analysis



12


news

Dubai Spa market to remain strong

A recent survey from Colliers

International has reported

a positive outlook among

Dubai spa operators.

According to the findings, 75 per

cent of spa operators are expecting

revenue growth in 2016, this comes in

spite of increasing competition in the

sector.

Colliers, a specialist in real estate

advisory services, compiled its report

based on the results of a survey

completed by 25 leading spa operators

between January and February 2016.

Additional findings from the survey

highlighted sourcing skilled manpower,

an increasing number of price sensitive

customers and an influx of new

entrants into the spa market as the

biggest challenges of 2015.

“Given that Dubai currently offers

a very limited number of spa-specific

college level courses and training

programmes, it is not surprising that

recruitment of therapists was identified

as the biggest challenge that the

market faced last year.

At present operators rely on external

training, which is both time consuming

and costly. Changes are on track,

however, as spa courses are being

introduced into curriculums,” says

Filippo Sona, Head of Hotels, Colliers

International in the MENA region.

“An area that does need further

attention, however, is the continuous

stream of new entrants offering the

latest in design and technology.

The Dubai hotel spa market, for

example, witnessed 11 new opening in

2015 alone. This presents spa operators

with a dilemma. Should I invest in

new trends? Or cater to the rise of

value-driven consumers? The answer is

knowing your market and knowing when

to say yes to an emerging trend,” Sona

adds.

2015 findings also revealed an

increase in the number of walk-in

clients, together with a general

increase in the number of treatments

sold per day.

“Despite the challenges, the Dubai

spa market has remained resilient and

continues to grow. Over 76 per cent of

respondents expect spa revenues to

continue to grow in 2016 which is a

tremendous result and indicative of the

rising growth of the industry and its ability

to drive guest bookings,” Sona says.

Pastels Salon creates own appWith technological developments in

the beauty sector continuing to gain

ground, Pastels Salon is capitalising on

this interest by launching its own app.

The launch of the app, which is avail-

able on both iOS and android, follows

closely behind the unveiling of Pastels’

new look website.

The app allows users to stay up-to-

date with the latest news and trends

from the salon. It also provides a GPS

location finder, enabling users to

quickly identify their nearest Pastels

salon, a meet the team section and a

photo gallery.

Future plans for app will see a book-

ing function included, allowing users to

quickly and easily schedule their next

appointment at the salon.


13launch analysis



14business trends


Specialized Beauty holds skin awareness programme

The event was organised in

April to educate beauty

centre managers on the

importance of good skincare.

The programme, which showcased

the Reviderm products supplied by

Specialized Beauty in the Middle East,

included interactive discussions on

the importance of skin health and the

proper use of various cosmeceutical

treatments and anti-ageing products,

for specific skin types.

Live demonstrations wowed the

attendees with immediate results and

lifting, wrinkle removal, lightening, face

rejuvenation and skin tightening were

some of the treatments tried by the

guests.

Said Mania El Baba managing

director of Specialized Beauty,

“At Reviderm ‘skintelligence’ solutions

which define new standards in the

field of beauty and healthy skin are

developed in close coordination with

expert dermatologists and cosmetolo-

gists. Your skin health is very important

for your appearance, however it is the

largest organ in your body, performing

so many basic and vital tasks that are

crucial for the overall body functions.

All of the German anti-ageing

Reviderm skin treatments are for

beauty purposes and special

dermatological needs for both face

and body, men and women alike. They

have been developed using knowledge

gained from medical and cosmetic

research to harmonise modern

science with the essence of nature

by being formulated to mimic the

body’s natural processes.

The products used in the

treatments are all unique in their

type, quality, concentration

and combination of active

ingredients. They are free

of preservatives, chemicals

and parabens. Determining

the right treatment depends on

so many factors besides skin

condition, type and texture.

Environmental factors, seasons,

lifestyle, and overall health all play

an important role.”

Despite being in one of the world’s

most sun-exposed regions, the UAE is

reporting a remarkably low incidence

of skin cancer, according to one of

Europe’s leading dermato-oncologists.

Yet Dr Claas Ulrich, who heads the

skin cancer centre at Berlin’s Charité

University Hospital, one of Germany’s

most research-intensive medical

institutions, says the longer life spans

of UAE nationals and changing dress

patterns will increase the proportion

of sun exposure related skin diseas-

es, paralleling trends in other parts of

the globe. Added to that the Emirates’

high number of expatriates, prone to

sunbathing, could increase the

incidence.

Dr Ulrich recently addressing a

gathering of UAE-based medical

practitioners and dermatological

specialists across Dubai and Abu

Dhabi in lectures organised by the

Swiss global leading dermatology

company Galderma, the medical

solutions company of Nestlé Skin

Health, which has just launched its Day-

long sunscreen range in the Emirates.

“The fact is nationals in the UAE are

living longer thanks largely to major

strides in the healthcare sector,”

explained Dr Ulrich. “While most of the

people over 60, particularly women,

have largely been protected from

ultraviolet radiation – the main cause

of skin cancer - thanks to conservative

clothing, reports show their most

exposed areas, the face and hands

and even feet are vulnerable. Our data

shows that long-term exposure to

the sun in one of the world’s sunniest

climates has led to increased suscepti-

bility among this age group.”

Currently UAE nationals have an

UAE reports low skin cancer rate, but sun-exposed skin diseases could rise warns expert

average life expectancy of 77 – one of

the highest in the Arab world. Dr Ulrich

points out, however, that the UAE’s

incidence of sun cancer – which is one of

the world’s most common accounting

for one in every three cancers diagnosed

globally – is likely to be influenced

by the country’s large number of

expatriate residents which makes

up around 90 per cent of the overall

population.

“Sunbathing here is a popular

pastime particularly among the

Western expatriates who by and

large have the fair skin that is most

vulnerable.”


15news



16business trends



Industry news from around the globe

The Maldives’ Amilla Fushi resort partners with Bodyism

Javvu Spa at the Amilla

Fushi Resort in the Maldives

has announced a part-

nership with the Bodyism

fitness and wellness concept.

Through the partnership, which

came into effect earlier last month,

Javvu Spa clients are now able to

take Bodyism fitness classes and

personal training sessions and

order food created in accordance

with the Clean and Lean nutrition

guidelines that form part of Body-

ism.

The Bodyism training concept

incorporates a Body Oracle diag-


17international news

Six Senses Spa launches Kids Wellness ProgrammeA healthy alternative to a Kids’

Club, The Six Senses Spa team at

the Elounda Peninsula All Suite

Hotel in Crete has devised a

programme that includes wellness

education and spa treatments for

children aged five to 12 years.

The three-day programme intro-

duces the children to the principles

of wellness and a healthy lifestyle

with specialist classes, games, and

treatments, as well as workshops

about healthier living to educate

them on how to integrate wellness

into everyday life. Attendees will

learn how to do a foot scrub, paint

nails and make organic beauty

products as well learning about

herbs and gardening.

The programme takes place in a

special facility with the indoor area

covering 7,500sq ft and comprising

classrooms, activity rooms and a

wellness treatment area, as well as

a kitchen and changing rooms. The

outdoor area is 43,000sq ft and

includes an eco-gym, labyrinth

garden and meditation cave,

Hippocrates garden, pool and

playground.

Sales of face oils grows by double digits in the UK

nosis, assessing the client’s fitness

and level of fat storage, as well as a

focus on weight training, alignment

and posture. The aim is to create

“long, lean athletic bodies".

Classes available to guests

include the Clean and Lean Class,

fusing elements of yoga, pilates,

ballet and interval training to

stretch, tone and burn fat.

There is also the high-intensity

Clean and Lean Warrior, designed

to build muscle and improve

strength and flexibility; and the

Bodyism Ballet, focusing on core

strength, flexibility and posture.

The Bodyism health

supplements are also

on offer at the spa.

A new Island

Café by Clean and

Lean has also been

created at the spa,

serving unprocessed and gluten-

free food. Dishes on the menu

include aubergine puree, cauli-

flower rice and grilled pineapple.

Bodyism was founded by James

Duigan 10 years ago and has

acquired a celebrity following in

the last decade, with a number of

high profile clients on its books

between 2014 and 2015.

The face oils category includes

cleansing oils and anti-ageing

oils. NPD said growth in the

category was driven by an

increased awareness of the prod-

ucts, as well as by new launches.

Best-selling face oil products in

2015 included the Huile Orchidee

Bleue and the Huile Santal, both

from Clarins.

Teresa Fisher, senior account

manager, NPD UK Beauty, said:

“The recent growth in the

face oil market is boosting the

prestige skincare market by

increasing sales, and also

demonstrates the enthusiasm

with which consumers adopt

new rituals and are willing

to try new products and

innovations.”

Sales of face oils

saw double-digit

growth in the

UK in 2015,

according to

figures from market analysts

the NPD Group.

While face oils still account for

just one per cent of the prestige

women’s skincare market, sales in

the category rose by 30.8 per cent


18business trends



19launch analysis



22business trends




23designs

Redesigns are tricky business: how often are they necessary, how much should you change and how do you carry them out successfully? Nora Elias finds out from the experts.

“There is no hard and fast rule and it does vary

from business to business, but we tend to see reno-

vations after 10-12 years,” says Graeme Banks, design

director at Barr and Wray. Gerard McCarthy, sales direc-

tor as Dalesauna, adds that “as a rule of thumb, when it

comes to the type of equipment we would supply, you

would probably be looking at about 8-10 years, in terms

of shelf life”. Sue Harmsworth, founder of Espa, says

that while they are also seeing redesigns come up after

about a decade, this is affected by how you build your

spa to begin with.

“A spa is operational 12 hours a day and gets

hammered by traffic and usage far more than a hotel

bedroom, for example, so if you don’t have good quality

finishes to begin with, you’re going to need to

refurbish quicker,” she says. “I always try to explain

that to my clients, and we use a lot of hard finishes in

our spas, because they’re more durable. We’ve worked

on some very high quality spas that are 15 years old and still

looking good, whereas if you’ve used a design

model with cheaper finishes, you’re looking at five,

maybe six years.” g

A combination of everyday wear and tear and

the dating of décor and features means any

long-running spa will eventually need a de-

sign touch-up, whether in the form of small-

er decorating tweaks or a complete facilities

overhaul. But how do you know when to refurbish and

how much to change, and how do you carry out ren-

ovation work with minimum disruption to your guests,

and minimum loss of revenue to the business? Experts

say that while there is no rule for how often a spa de-

sign needs to be updated, dependent as it is on the

size and concept of the spa and the traffic it sees,

there is a pattern.

Revamp and refresh


24business trends



Planning points To get your redesign right you should, explains Rolf

Glantz, head of architecture and design at Klafs, en-

sure you make the changes that are right for your busi-

ness. “The planning phase should start with the ques-

tion: what will the USP of my spa be?” he says. “The

challenge for redesign projects is therefore to focus

on ideas that are suitable to the positioning of the spa.

Whatever you do should redefine the positioning of

your spa.” Planning your project carefully, putting re-

alistic timeframes and budgets in place, is also key to

successful renovation work. “Time is an important ele-

ment; don’t underestimate how long things will take,”

McCarthy says.

“Don’t underestimate the disruption the work will

cause and build a little bit of comfort into your times-

cale, so you’re not promising users that the spa will be

open on a certain date, and then disappointing them.”

Adrian Egger, managing director of Thermarium,

agrees that thorough planning is key. “Redesign needs

to be seen as just as, if not even more, complex than

developing a new concept, “ he explains. “You have

limited possibilities, limited time and usually limited

investment. A redesign needs to be planned properly

and carefully to become a success.”

Manufacturing off site and shipping items in is a

system frequently used by Medical Spa and Wellness

Group, previously known as Schletterer. “When we

conduct a renovation, various elements are prefabri-

cated in our construction plant, so that a large part of

renovations can be performed during the night,” says

the company’s founder Heinz Schletterer. “Conse-

quently guests are not disturbed and with this method

even bigger renovations can be completed after clos-

ing, or the closing time can be kept extremely short.”

Open for business? Whether or not to close during a redesign can be a

complicated decision, one on which opinion differs.

“It’s a difficult one and it really depends on the spa,”

Banks says. “If the spa fully closes then guests will go

elsewhere and there is a chance they may not return.

However, if you renovate [and stay open] guests will

be inconvenienced and you run the risk of alienating

them,” he continues. “The ideal scenario is to try and

keep the spa open, renovate outside spa working hours

and try not to inconvenience guests.” Harmsworth,

however, says that in her experience, it’s difficult to

keep the spa open during a redesign.

“I really find it difficult to renovate and keep an op-

eration going, though obviously many people do try

to do this, for financial reasons,” she says. “My view

is that you can’t do any noisy work while treatments

are being carried out, because that will irritate peo-

ple and then you lose revenue, which negates having

kept the spa open.” Harmsworth’s advice is to prepare

yourself as well as possible for the renovation, closing


25designs

“If the spa fully closes guests will go elsewhere and there is a

chance they may not return. However, if you stay open

guests will be inconvenienced and you run the risk of alienating them”

g


26business trends



“Redesign needs to be seen as just as,

if not even more, complex than developing a new concept. You have limited possibilities,

limited time and usually limited investment. It needs

to be planned properly and carefully to

become a success”

the doors to the spa once everything’s in place. “You

don’t close until you’re absolutely ready, but once you

do, you work on it 24/7, with teams working round

the clock,” she says. “By doing that you, in my experi-

ence, alienate far fewer people than if you try to keep

it open.”

For McCarthy, whether or not to stay open during

renovations is a decision that should be made on a

case-by-case basis. “It depends on the size of the pro-

ject,” he says. “If you’re a larger facility, you might be

able to board off one area at a time, renovating zone

by zone and minimising the disruption to existing us-

ers,” he says. “But if you’ve got a relatively small space

and you’re doing a lot of work, it [might be better] to

close the whole facility for two weeks and just get it

done. It depends very much on circumstances.”

Small changes, big impact It’s not only the quality of finishes that can affect how

often you need to redesign but also the décor you opt

for. In the view of the experts, less is definitely more

when it comes to spa design. “Good design is not too

fancy and is quite timeless, so that your spa stays

modern for longer and doesn’t look old-fashioned af-

ter a few years,” Glantz says. “I’m not a fan of themed

spas, because they date very quickly,” Harmsworth

adds. “As concepts, they move on very quickly, but

they’re also very fixed, so if you do want to move on

from them, you’ve got to radically change.”

Neville Brownhill, director of UK-based spa and well-

ness firm Atlam Design Worldwide, similarly advises

spas not to get too carried away with trends. “Yes, you

can go with what’s considered fashionable and cut-

ting-edge at the time, but think about what that will

look like in 10 years’ time,” he says. “Will you be as hap-

py with it then as you would have been with a more

classic style? Probably not.”

That doesn’t mean you can’t introduce standout

design elements. “If we put a striking feature in, we

might do it with lighting or put something on one wall

– things you can change without having to change the

whole room,” says McCarthy. Harmsworth suggests

that updating less fixed features can be a good idea

if you’re looking to refresh the appearance of your

spa. “You can change paint colours or update your lin-

ens and uniforms and smaller decorations,” she says.

Egger recommends spas to regularly implement small-

er design changes, to keep things new and interesting

in-between more complete, and by necessity more

rare, redesigns.

“There is a lot you can do to please clients between

bigger redesigns; with slight adjustments such as col-

ours and light,” he says. Bayes agrees that it’s impor-

tant to offer your customers something new every now

and then, to keep things exciting. “You need to create

new stories, don’t you, to keep the interest up,” she

says. While she explains that this could, for example,


27designs

g


28designs

mean “creating an amazing manicure/pedicure area”,

it could also be something as simple as tidying up.

“Treatments rooms, for example, need to be func-

tional in terms of having lots of storage space, so they

remain uncluttered and are easy to maintain, but it’s

amazing how many don’t have enough storage,” she

says, adding that at Sparcstudio they “always try to

create as much as possible”. Echoing this, Harmsworth

says: “Sometimes decluttering, a major deep clean

and a lick of paint is all it needs, it can be as straight-

forward as that but make a huge difference.”

Redesign and repositions Not everyone is a fan of change, so could a redesign

run the risk of driving away some of your clients?

Possibly but, the experts advise, it’s not an overwhelm-

ing risk, and it’s one worth taking. “There is always a

chance you could alienate existing clients, but the risk

of this happening is very slim as you will always be ren-

ovating to improve the guest experience,” Banks says.

A redesign could also be part of rebranding and repo-

sitioning your spa, in which case you might be willing,

even find it necessary, to shed part of your client base.

“A redesign can be a springboard for re-launching

yourself into the market and as a marketing tool to

create interest in the facility. This point of view is rein-

forced by Bayes, who comments that “you may want

to reposition the spa anyway. Particularly hotels with

spa memberships, because sometimes the member-

ship is not that lucrative and you might want to make

it more exclusive; refresh the membership and attract

a new audience.”

While architecture and design is undoubtedly

important, it is of course only one of many elements

that make up the concept and success of a spa and

opinions vary on how important it is to keeping up

with the competition and attracting and retaining

customers. “Staying ahead of the competition is

always a desire but with the fast-moving world

in which we live now and the constant changes in

trends, you could end up changing so often that you

lose your identity,” Banks says.

However, Glantz believes that regular design

updates are essential to keeping your spa attractive

to clients. “Even when the spa is up-to-date

and in good shape we advice our clients to do

something new every two years, so that they have

something interesting to talk about,” he says, though

he adds that this doesn’t mean “that you have to

update the whole area”. Schletterer also believes that

architecture and design is key to keeping up with and

ideally staying head of what other spas are doing.

“If nothing changes in the spa, it will still persist,

but it will fall behind its competitors as trends

move on,” he says. “So for most spas, adaptation is

definitely a necessity.” This is something Brownhill

agrees with, commenting that not keeping on top

of your design could see you lose clients.

“Refurbishment will always be necessary because

losing the edge when it comes to décor can mean

clients become less enthusiastic,” he says. It seems

that in a market as competitive as today’s, spas

cannot afford to be complacent in any area, and

design is no exception. PB



29business tips

Charlene touched the minds and hearts of everyone she met: her passion and contribution to health and wellness, and the products which she created and loved, will be never ending...

Charlene will remain in our hearts forever and she will continue to spread her wings

across the world...

The Product House The Product House | PO Box 37427 Dubai UAE

T +971 4 379 1966 | www.theproducthouse.biz



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Ask the expertsOur beauty professionals answer a selection of questions covering every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

Having been in the beauty / hair industry for several years now, I’m looking for a new challenge and so I’m considering launching my own product collection. What factors do I need to consider in doing so?Your knowledge of the business: EIDEAL’s birth and

success mainly go back to the fact that I had an extensive

knowledge of the beauty industry. Experience in

the field in which you are about to invest is crucial,

especially because your time and money are on the

line. That’s exactly why my first and most important

advice would be for the person to get involved, in the

field before fully immersing him/herself in it just to

make sure that this is indeed what he/she wants to do.

Your passion for the business: “Passion is the key

to success” is not just a quote that you would read

somewhere on your social media feed, it is reality!

Doing something that you are really passionate about

will get you where you want to be and might lead you

to the unexpected! Passion will also help you deal with

failures that are indeed part of the journey, without

it, you will find yourself jumping from one thing to

another and eventually going nowhere.

The target market and profit: Financial capital

is what we are all after, whether we admit this or

not. Moral support and appreciation are definitely

important but at the end of the day, you want to bring

bread to the table. That’s why studying the market

is what determines your business’ success or failure!

There needs to be a demand for your product and

people willing to buy it.

Your capital: We always hear and read about success

stories of people who started their business with a

very little budget; however in most cases this is not

the norm when launching your own brand or line.

A good budget will allow you to start off on the right

track ensuring that you deliver a quality that’s better

than what is in the market or at least as good. Our

strategy and aim are to always offer the market

something different, and that’s how you create a

partnership built on trust with your clients.

Competitors: An absolute monopoly is rare in our

modern world. One must always keep competition in

mind and use it as a drive to excel. I like to think of

competition as an advantage rather than a drawback;

I believe it is what keeps me going.

Managing expectations: The beauty industry requires

a lot of patience. One needs to manage his/her

expectations in businesses that require buying and

selling. When it comes to our industry, one must take

into consideration the seasonal aspect of it and the

difference in demand variations between one month

and the other. There are months where you will

witness an intense demand for your products,

and others where the market will be in a complete

hibernation mode.

In a nutshell, I am not here to claim that starting

one’s business is an easy task that can be done if you

keep these factors in mind. However, using them as a

guideline will definitely smooth out the process and

will help any potential entrepreneur stay on the right

track while focusing on the end result and the reason

why he/she started in the first place.

Haysam Eid is the founder and managing director of EIDEAL. He began his career in hairdressing, honing his talents at Toni & Guy in London and also completing the prestigious L'Oréal Professionnel Color Specialist Degree. After majoring in Business Management, he went on to establish EIDEAL, which specialises in the manufacture and sale of products to professional hair salons and end-users.


32ask the expert


33launch analysis



We are looking to introduce semi-permanent make-up services to our treatment menu, what should we do to ensure we are properly equipped to do so?

Semi-permanent make-up gives an array

of benefits that range from shortening the time

spent applying cosmetics each day to helping

clients with cosmetic and medical conditions.

It is a long-term investment for both the

salon and the clients. Semi-permanent make-up will

enhance the appearance of eyebrows, eyes, lips and

scalp, as well as camouflaging scars and other skin

discolouration. This is achieved through a process in

which an organic pigment is embedded beneath the

skin to add colour. The procedure involves the use of a

hand-held device that punctures the skin hundreds of

times per minute with a very thin needle and pushes

the pigment into the desired location.

It is one of the most sought after beauty treatments

today, especially from busy mums and working women.

In fact semi-permanent make-up can benefit anybody

of any age or complexion.

Semi-permanent make-up is for people who don’t

want to spend time applying make-up all day long.

It is a make-up treatment that will last for years. It is

also designed to enrich a person’s features and can

give them a beautifully groomed look, day in, day out.

Whether they are just waking up, swimming laps, or

working up a sweat, their make-up will look perfect

all the time.

Semi-permanent make-up can last anything

between two to four years, but this can depend on

skin type, sun exposure and lifestyle. This is why we

recommend to clients to have a top up treatment after

several months to keep the look fresh and complete.

However effective and long-lasting results will

depend not only on the quality of the product

and skills of the technician, but also on the pre-

and post-procedure care. Only the perfect balance

between machine, needles, colour and application

technique can achieve the correct result.

Semi-permanent make-up is a luxury treatment

that can be offered at any salon, clinic or spa.

In order to be able to offer this service at your

premises you first need to have trained and

licensed staff. To become a semi-permanent make-

up artist, you must be trained by a recognised

and licensed training school that specialises

in semi-permanent make-up. When choosing a

training programme, I strongly recommend paying

attention to the course curriculum, the theory,

the practical and hands-on experience received.

Furthermore, the school that you choose, if you are

based in the UAE, must be licensed by the Knowledge

and Human Development Authority (KHDA) and the

Health Authority. Only through the KHDA will you

be able to receive a license from the municipality to

legally work as a semi-permanent make-up artist in

this region.

Semi-permanent make-up is a precision treatment;

therefore it is vital to choose a recognised brand

that adheres to the latest international standards

within the cosmetic industry. To make it worthwhile,

investigate only established semi-permanent make-

up technicians and equipment that can help deliver

superior results.

Oliyah Joseph is a fully qualified technician and master instructor in micropigmentation with over 10 years experience in the cosmetic industry. Initially trained and qualified in Russia, she achieved her master diploma in semi-permanent make-up three years ago at the Biotek Academy in Milan, Italy. Oliyah runs her own renowned beauty and training centre in Dubai.


34ask the expert


We are opening a new day spa before the end of the year and are looking for some tips on how to effectively recruit a talented team?

Recruiting a talented team is, in my view,

the most important piece of the jigsaw for

the success of a new spa business. I have

always championed the idea that quality

of treatments should be a much higher

priority than luxury and location.

My tips: Plan your HR budget and don’t press for the

minimum spend – you get what you pay for! Don’t

appoint too many employees pre-opening – build

your team as bookings pick up keeping everyone

busy from the start.

Pay a good basic salary to encourage new

employees to join your team. If business is not

immediate they will worry a commission-based salary

could be risky for them – make it known that this is

likely to change when it becomes more profitable for

all – which is an incentive in itself.

Appoint a great team leader (spa manager) and

you will have a happy work force. Ticking the finance

and capability boxes for management – even with

certificates of training – do not necessarily make for a

"good" team leader. Whether the owner is managing

or a manager is appointed, it is essential they are liked

and they have the respect and trust of their team as

well as the hands on ability to train. Spend time and,

if necessary money, on finding this person first – they

will then give guidance on recruiting the rest of the

team.

Advertise: Post individual ads for each job title rather

than trying to attract a team via a general ad.

Tailor the ads accordingly – remember to sell

the job as well as stating the required criteria

for applicants. Give them some knowledge of

the size, concept, products, salary and benefits

– the more information they have the more

likely they are to apply and be seriously

interested in doing so.

Shortlist: Though specific criteria must be met and

checked, your gut feeling should not be ignored.

Look at where they have previously worked and for

how long – is their past experience in tune with your

concept?

Interview: If they cannot be met in person arrange

a Skype interview. Do not “cold call” them, email

them to arrange a time and give them a chance to

check you out and prepare themselves – remember

this is a two-way interview! I know managers

who even watch trade tests over Skype and spot

potential with further training on arrival.

Check references: I am a firm believer in calling

past employers and speaking with them directly.

The contract: Make sure the contract is completely

clear and that it covers your commitment to them as

well as theirs to you. Show patience when explaining

any unclear points. It should be read and signed

before the arrival of the employee.

Look after your team members and they will stay

loyal to you and your business. Employees who are

content don’t leave and instead they build you a

good and regular client base.

Miranda Allard is chief executive officer (CEO) of recruitment agency Spa Staff.com, which she launched in 2000 after spotting a gap in the market. In addition to her role as CEO, which often sees her advising employers on special recruitment needs, Miranda has been involved in spa marketing, consultancy, international judging and has written several pieces in the media as a spa expert.


35ask the expert


36business trends




37hair opinion

I’ve only just packed away my winter wardrobe (even in Dubai we do have winter wardrobes!) and

I’m already hearing clients talk about their summer holidays and bemoaning “what they will they do without me

for eight weeks!”

Although the salon remains well and truly open throughout the summer months and beyond, there is a

definite change in the vibe, purely because so many of our fellow Dubaians tend to jet off to foreign climes

to escape the heat.

In terms of your business, planning for the summer should have started already, and if you haven’t started

by now, then today’s the day. Take a look at my five pre-summer considerations to keep business booming

whatever the weather.

Hello summer

Maria Dowling discusses “summer proofing” your business, starting now

Planning the hairstylesI start talking to my clients about their

thoughts for summer styles and colours quite early

in the year. Low maintenance colour and cuts seem

the most popular. Fringes (bangs) that have looked

amazing over the winter months are generally not a

good idea in the heat and humidity of the summer.

If you’ve gone for the chop in November, think about

growing it long enough to tie back when you get to

June. Many of our clients keep the same styles come

rain, shine or humidity but I think it’s the job of a

stylist/beauty therapist to put the idea out there in

more than enough time to do something about it.

Buy for retailOur retail mix over the summer does change

– ideally we want to bring in more SPF products,

treatment conditioners, sun sprays, mini sizes – all the

things your customers may be likely to need over the

summer months. Bearing in mind that by October,

everyone is starting to think about winter hair again,

we keep the buying quantities small. So talk to your

suppliers now to see if they have any seasonal retail

products that would suit.

Staff holidaysThe team at mariadowling tends to split its

holidays throughout the year but a large chunk of

these holiday days are taken in the summer. It’s often

a good time to encourage staff to book their holidays

but beware of the classic assumption that summer

is going to be quiet, before finding that it’s a busy

period and you’re short staffed! I find that the end of

July and beginning of August is quieter for us whereas

near the end of August people start returning as the

schools go back, so I prefer not to have too many

stylists off in those last two weeks.

Fill those appointment booksStart planning ahead for your clients and get

those summer appointment books filled. While our

team is really good at preparing their clients for

future appointment bookings, I still want to ensure

that when I look at the appointment book for one or

two months down the line, it is at least 50 per cent full

with re-bookings. This gives us an idea of our turnover

forecasts and allows us to plan for stock purchasing,

staffing etc.Plus it’s comforting to know that you still

have a business, come the summer months!

Summer promotions – are they a good thing?

For me, the jury is out on summer promotions. As a

salon, we don’t do many promotions but that’s not to

say they aren’t effective when done well. Sometimes

clients who are still in the country need a little

encouragement to leave their sofas and come into the

salon more often than they would normally. However,

be careful not to cheapen your brand or attract the

“serial promotions clients”. These clients are the ones

who only visit a salon with a promotion/discount/buy-

one-get-one-free offer. They are rarely loyal and will

jump to the next salon when your offer ends. I believe

what really works for a salon is to promote value-added

treatments or competitions such as “win a day of

pampering”. The most important thing to remember

with promotions is to keep them short and make sure

they end before your regular clients start to return.PB

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Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call +971 4 345 42 25.


38business trends




39nail chemicals

Many questions have been raised lately

around the safety of nail polishes and

the ingredients therein, as consumers

become far more aware. Brands are

constantly competing with one another

in order to produce the best polish on the market, with

just the right combination of chemical ingredients to

ensure that a formula offers all the qualities a good

professional nail polish should: full coverage, chip-

resistant, extended wear, superior shine, and an overall

flawless finish.

However, there is so much confusion and misunder-

standing about chemical safety and toxicity, you may

find yourself facing questions from a misinformed

customer. Questions raised may include, “Is there

formaldehyde, toluene or dibutyl phthalate in the

product?” And customers will expect you to give an

informed answer.

The nitty-gritty of nail polishSonette van Rensburg takes an in-depth look at the technology behind nail polishes, and what sets them apart from one another

IngredientsMost nail polishes consist of a combination of:

• Pigment – used to create and add colour and also

assists with coverage.

• Film-former – assists in making the polish durable

and shiny. The most common film-former is

nitrocellulose. An interesting fact is that the film for

old-fashioned black-and-white movies is made of

nitrocellulose. g


40business trends



• Resin – makes polish tough and resilient.

• Tosylamide – very commonly used in most nail

polish brands.

• Solvent – most brands use a combination of butyl

acetate, ethyl acetate and toluene for easy

application. Solvents are also used in nail polish

removers.

• Clay – aids with suspension and helps to keep

the ingredients mixed and makes polish easier to

apply.

• Plasticiser – helps with preventing chips and

cracks. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) has been used

for many decades as a nail polish plasticiser. It is

also used in soft toys, baby bottles and tubes for

dispensing food and medicine.

• UV stabiliser – prevents sun and light from fading

or changing the colour.

Do most professional salon brands contain the

same ingredients? Mostly they do, however each

manufacturer differs in the quantities of ingredients

and solvents they add to their product. These

ingredients have been used by nail polish

brands for decades now. The same primary

ingredients are used in most base and

top coats, with the exception of clays and

pigments.

Are nail polishes safe?Nail polish products have been used safely for

decades, by many women across the globe. The

natural nail is made up of keratin, a non-living

hard durable substance that is oil and

moisture-loving. Nail polish dries to a hard durable

surface, and, once the ingredients in the polish

become embedded in the hardened film coating,

they are not absorbed by the body or released into

the environment.

Most polishes are a combination of plasticisers,

resins, UV stabilisers and solvents to give a high-quality,

high-shine and chip-free product. Plasticisers are

additives that maintain the flexibility of resins

after they have dried. They are a sort of a molecular

“lubricant”, which make the resin less vulnerable to

chipping.

Resins are a type of polymer that holds the

polish together. They are composed of giant

molecules that are made by linking smaller

molecules into long chains and networks. After the

polish has been applied, the solvent component of

the polish evaporates to leave behind a smooth, hard

coat of lacquer. Because it evaporates, the solvent is

responsible for the strong odour that polishes emit.

Solvents must be compatible with resins, so that

the resins can be evenly spread on the nail. Those

solvents that evaporate too slowly or too quickly can

ruin the lacquer or cause bubbling.

UV stabilisers are additives that help keep

lacquers from changing colour when exposed to

too much UV light from the sun.

The truth about formaldehydeInternationally renowned product chemist Douglas D

Schoon believes that some advocacy groups globally are

incorrectly claiming that formaldehyde is an ingredient

in cosmetics.

“They are even loudly proclaiming that formaldehyde

is a known carcinogen and are demanding that

manufacturers remove this cancer-causing ingredient

from cosmetics,” says Schoon. “Actually, if these groups

understood formaldehyde’s basic chemistry, they

would see their claims are absolutely wrong. They’d also

know that formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and

never has been.

“Advocacy groups incorrectly claim that formaldehyde

is an ingredient found in nail hardeners, and nail polishes.

So, how can I be so sure that formaldehyde has never

been a cosmetic ingredient? Because formaldehyde is

a gas, not a liquid or a solid. A gas cannot be added

to cosmetics as an ingredient, since it would rapidly

escape from the product.”

Schoon notes that formaldehyde is a naturally

occurring gas that must be kept absolutely bone dry.

In the presence of even tiny amounts of moisture, it

instantly transforms into completely different

substances.

“This is why it quickly breaks down and doesn’t

accumulate in the environment. As you can imagine, this

is yet another reason why formaldehyde can’t be used in

cosmetics; it wouldn’t be stable for more than 1000th of

a second after contact with moisture.”

How did this misunderstanding begin? Sometime in

the early 1900s, formaldehyde manufacturers began

mixing this gas with water to create a liquid substance

called “formalin”.

“These manufacturers mistakenly assumed that

the added formaldehyde was simply dissolving in the

water and this is how formalin was sold. They didn’t

realise that formaldehyde does not dissolve in water,

but instead instantly reacts with the water to change

into a completely new and different substance

called methylene glycol, which belongs to an entirely

separate chemical family.” PB


41nail chemicals

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for over 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills.


42business trends


Back in February I had a life changing

experience. I was invited to the Professional

Beauty Show GCC in Dubai, not just to

be a speaker but to be an ambassador for

Professional Beauty. Why was it life changing?

I had not been to Dubai before and I felt privileged to

be among such industry experts. This experience has

inspired me to want to work in the GCC and be part of

the emerging beauty industry.

For those who didn’t attend my talk, a little more

about me. My official title is “global beauty industry

strategist”. What does this mean? My team and I

work on major campaigns within the beauty industry

analysing and anticipating trends and demands. We

educate and train both professionals and beginners in

how to become successful in the world of make-up.

I have been a “beautyprenuer” and educator for a

long time – I have seen the industry evolve with many

changes. Education and retraining is imperative for a

practitioner to stay abreast. We at Eryca Freemantle

Shades of successOur new columnist Eryca Freemantle gives us top tips for succeeding in the make-up industry

are very proud to be one of the

market leaders and agents

of change. We have a new

global campaign “Embracing All

Tones of Women” out of the UK,

which is about to go global

and encourages make-up artists

and beauticians to retrain and

become aware of opportu-

nities with newfound knowl-

edge. We offer programmes,

competitions, business devel-

opment, networks and short

courses, which give therapists

the opportunity to increase

their profits through our various

platforms.

I’d like to share our top

tips for aspiring make-up

artists in the GCC. g


43opinion



44business trends



45opinion

For further conversations with Eryca, whether you are a make-up or skincare brand or you are interested in her courses, please email [email protected] or visit www.erycafreemantle.com T: @erycafreemantle

Your name is your brand In the beauty industry it is imperative to protect

your name, there is nowhere to hide once your name

is tarnished. Remember to be professional at all times,

deliver and be reliable.

RelationshipsYour network is your net worth. It is important

to learn how to nurture relationships and not expect

all promises to manifest. Partnerships and alignments

are great ways to grow your business. Networking

events such as beauty shows and exhibitions are great

platforms to meet others within the industry. At such

events, be prepared, have your one-minute pitch ready,

have your business cards, be ready for the unexpect-

ed, be confident and most of all enjoy the moment.

Online beauty forums are becoming very

popular, this is a softer way to meet

others who can support you with your business.

It can be a lifeline to the beauty community especially if

you are too busy to attend the major shows.

Embrace all tones of women

Perfect the art of make-up for different skin tones. It

is important that all artists are able to perfect the art

of make-up or skincare application for any client with

confidence. After market research, we found 75 per cent

of therapists are nervous and reluctant to work on

skin tones that are not their own. This must change

and fortunately we offer professionals the opportunity

to become educated through our short courses.

We often collaborate with make-up schools,

hairdressing academies and beauty establishments

where we offer our master courses and consultancy

services. The world is becoming smaller, and is often

referred to as a global village. That is exactly how you

should view your skills. Ask yourself if your business

can truly cater for all skin tones? I can’t emphasise this

enough – we in the industry should see things in tones

and hues and not ethnicities.

The importance of training and up-skilling

It is essential to keep testing and refreshing your

skills, meeting and mixing with other peers in the

industry. If you are not careful the beauty industry will

eat you alive. You can get caught up in the glitz and

glamour and not make any profits. Many have fallen

by the wayside simply because they didn’t or don’t

have a plan. It is very hard to not want to be able to do

everything. Continual training and honing your skills is

the only way forward in order to grow your business.

Every two years, you should look at your business and

assess your weak areas and also consider embarking

on something new. It is a hard and painful process –

I know because we’ve just revaluated our business

recently. Once you decide what you want to train or

retrain in, it is important that you do your research

and get a greater understanding of your chosen

course. How will you benefit? What will you achieve?

Remember make-up is not just about the art, there are

thousands upon thousands of great people who can

apply make-up – just look at Instagram. Make-up is

serious business. PB

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“After market research,

we found 75 per cent of therapists are nervous

and reluctant to work on skin tones that are

not their own”


46business trends



47


spotlight

The eyes have it...It’s all about the eyes at Aspire Beauty Trading as the company launches a new range of products and treatments aimed at prettifying peepers

With lashes and brows seeing the largest

growth within the beauty industry over

the last 18 months, we take a look at the

newest ranges launched in the region.

“It’s now time to be part of the Lash

and Brow revolution and Aspire Beauty Trading has

many great solutions for salons and spas,” said Claire

Gittus managing direction at Aspire Beauty Trading.

Her new lines includes the Hairwell Eyelash and Eye-

brow tinting, Love Lashes by Mii - Loved by You, Peek

A Boo Lashes and Brows by Mii. Gittus explains the

benefits of each:

Hairwell Eyelash and Eyebrow tintingThese products from Europe are a high quality range

which is competitively priced (starting from only

AED22). The range includes a new shade of light brown

and all our tubes of tint come in 20ml rather than the

normal 15ml and we have a cream developer rather

than liquid, giving a rich intense long lasting colour.

Love Lashes by Mii - Loved by You These handmade silk lashes are durable and reusable and come

in six different formats:

Simply Charming - A naturally delicate hint to keep them guessing

Truly Elegant - Hold your gaze with grace and sophistication

Seductress - Pair with a smokey eye for a smouldering look

Social Butterfly - An unforgettable flutter for every occasion

Drama Queen - Eye opening, jaw dropping and heart stopping

Little Lifts - Mini lash boosters for an elegant flick in an instant

This capsule collection also comes on an attractive stand.

Peek A Boo LashesA lifting treatment for natural lashes. Using a combination of

advanced technology and quality ingredients this professional

treatment lifts the lashes from the root, sets the lashes in the

new lifted position and curls the lashes opening up the eye,

and gives extra volume with a colour boost. This is a fantastic

treatment that takes 60 minutes and lasts 6-8 weeks with no

maintenance and no aftercare.

BROW by MiiA bespoke brow treatment that works in seven steps to create

the perfect brow. From the consultation stage, the client is taken

through a step-by-step service making sure she leaves with perfect

and symmetrical brows, enhancing her natural beauty. To comple-

ment this professional service, we have a collection of finishing prod-

ucts on a eye-catching retail display stand, perfect for any retail area.

For more details call Aspire Beauty Trading on +971 4 347 8055 / 971 50 468 6406


48business trends


49May 2016

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

HAI

RDRE

SSER

S JO

URN

ALIN

TERN

ATIO

NAL

STROBING AND TEXTURE TAKES CENTRE STAGE THIS SPRING

STYLES AND COLOURS FOR ANOTHER WORLD

HOW TO CAPITALISE ON YOUR RECEPTION AREA

Note from the Editor

Research shows it takes just seconds for

someone to decide what they think about

you – whether they think you are friendly,

professional, rude or unapproachable. First

impressions can make or break a business, and creating

a good one is easier than you think. It all starts with

the service you offer before the client has even stepped

through your door – the tone of the receptionist on the

phone; the eye-catching window display and the design

of your website. With so many salons on the high street

it’s essential you stand head and shoulders above the

competition and ensuring clients feel welcomed by a

friendly team is guaranteed to attract a new clientele. Never

underestimate your front of house team. But

it doesn’t stop there – the layout of

your salon should mean it’s an easy

client journey, retail should be accessible

and a friendly junior can make all the

difference. Think you are offering all of

this? Why not get a friend to act as a client

and give feedback on their experience?

Or take the client journey yourself? The

reception area is the most used area in the

salon so it’s worth investing time, money

and attention on this important zone.

Thanks,

Ruth

Individual Player

FirstImpressionFeminine Spirit

50 May 2016 hji.co.uk

For your beauty, hair andspa business

www.professionalbeauty.ae

For your beauty, hair and spa business

March 2016

GCC

Our guide to spring nails

Greatest of gatheringsWhy Professional Beauty 2016 was the place to be

The shape of things to come

Gain inspiration for the new season in our HJ special

Creative cuts

Are Haute Couture products the future of beauty?

madetomeasure

May 2016

REFRESH & REVAMP

Is it time to redesign your spa?

First impressionsHow welcoming is your reception?

Just the businessThe story behind truly bespoke spa menus

nailnittygrittynittygrittynittygrittynittyThe technology behind nail polish

PROFEStSIO

NALBEA

UTYG

CC

SPA DESIG

N • N

AILS • BESPOKE M

ENU

S • RECEPTION

SKILLS M

AY 2016

6 months FREE subscription to Professional Beauty GCC Magazine

for all industry professionals by visiting: www.professionalbeauty.ae/offer

*T&C’s apply: Valid until 10th July 2016

Stay connected to the beauty industry by visiting:

/PBGCC @PBGCC @PBGCC

STROBING AND TEXTURE TAKE CENTRE STAGE THIS SPRING

INDIVIDUALplayers51May 2016

“Add lightness and depth with a palette of watercolour shades and then mess it up with the latest mineral formulas. It’s all about individuality and playfulness.” JAMIE STEVENS

52 May 2016

HAIR: MATRIX GLOBAL DESIGN TEAM

53May 2016

EXCLUSIVE CONTENT FROM

HJ UK :

FEMININE SPIRIT

STYLES AND COLOURS FOR ANOTHER WORLD

55May 2016

57May 2016

“We wanted to showcase an eclectic mix of bold and delicate

colours which collide with soft dreamy textures. The energy

is feminine, unpredictable and elegant with a ghostly spirit.”

ROYSTON BLYTHE

59May 2016

HAIR: ROYSTON BLYTHE AND CHARLES DOUEK AT ROYSTON

BLYTHE, SHREWSBURYPHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD MILES

61May 2016

62 May 2016

EXC

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63May 2016

EXCLUSIVE CONTENT FROMHJ UK

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64business trends



Among the myriad decisions to be made when

opening a spa, crafting the perfect treatment

menu is arguably one of the most important.

Location, facilities and the clientele drive

the direction of the menu and the higher the

level of differentiation, the greater the chance of a

spa’s success. Yet in a place like Dubai, where there is

an abundance of five and even six star hotels, boasting

spectacular spas, offering something unique can be a

challenge to say the least.

Following her success steering the opening of The

Four Seasons' Pearl Spa at Jumeirah Beach Dubai,

director of spa, Hayley Bluett was tasked with

overseeing the opening of the hotel chain’s new spa

in DIFC a smaller, five-treatment room facility aimed

primarily at business travellers. When sourcing brands

to work in partnership with the spa, she was certain

that she wanted a brand that could offer a truly

bespoke and original treatment menu.

Just the businessAs the spa at the new Four Seasons in Dubai’s Financial Centre opens, Fiona Vlemmiks discovers what it takes to create the perfect bespoke spa menu

“It is paramount to have bespoke treatments in a spa

menu. This is our differentiator,” she says. “The pursuit

of differentiation and guest enrichment were both

catalysts for our profound spa wellness journey. It is

now widely acknowledged that ‘differentiation’ is

critical in determining the industry's winners and in

gaining a loyal customer base.”

Since Bluett was also looking for a brand that

mirrored the Four Seasons' ethical stance on sustain-

ability African brand Terres d’Afrique was deemed the

perfect fit, “We chose Terres d’ Afrique as the compa-

ny ties in so well with our Four Seasons philosophy,"

Bluett explains. “The brand is organic and the company

believes in sustainability.

“Aiming to be carbon neutral is the basis of their

operations, an ideal they aim for in every decision that

they make, principally thinking ethically and working

sustainably. They believe in fair trade, by doing

this, Terres d’ Afrique accelerates job creation,


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spa focus

improves and transforms the livelihood of so many and

uplifts communities. Interestingly, it also has a positive

impact on the environment.”

The making of a menuThe spa at DIFC is positioned as an authentic lifestyle

spa with a sleek and contemporary design and

houses five treatment rooms including a couples’

treatment room. The first step in the menu creation

was for Helary to consider the spa’s demographic,

location, philosophy and goals before marrying these

with relevant treatments and products.

Bluett says “Stephan from Terres d’Afrique carefully

hand picked all the ingredients for our bespoke

treatments. He created three distinctive treatment

selections, tailored to our guest demographic.

We have called these The Four Seasons Elements:

"Recharge, Revitalise and Release". By choosing

treatments under these selections, the guest will

embark on a spa journey tailored to their every need.

He also created our Signature Massage, called

The Signature Blue Tigers Eye Massage, we use a

combination of warm and cool Blue Tigers eye crystals

and use a very special signature tool which smoothly

and firmly glides over every contour of the body,

releasing blocked energy and soothes away aching

muscles.”

In total, 16 different treatments were created

exclusively for the new spa and to further add to the

spa’s drive for differentiation, several products were

also created.

“With many spas in Dubai providing similar products

due to the very rigid registration laws, the strength

of our proprietary product ranges and our

bespoke treatments are the determining factor in our

competitive position,” explained Bluett.

“It is very important to create a truly unique holistic

and rejuvenating wellness experience for our spa

guest, we do this by adding exclusive products and

treatments to our service offerings.”

The spa, which opened in March, is now, it seems,

reaping the rewards of such careful product and menu

selection.

“Our spa guests have been very receptive to

the brand, says Bluett. “Our customer base is very

wellness-focused, they have a genuine interest in

living a healthy lifestyle – health and wellness is a

major life focus for them. They too are driven by

sustainability, authenticity and seek local sources

that embrace holistic and integrated approaches to

health. They take a keen interest in environmental and

sustainability issues, they recognise that personal,

social, and planetary well-being are all interconnected.

That is why the brand is doing so well here. They would

rather opt for a brand that has a very strong focus on

these principles than a brand that does not.” PB

For more information on Terres d’Afrique please

contact The Product House +971 4 379 19 66

business trends

Forward has definitely helped them achieve this lofty

aim. “EIDEAL is a high-end lifestyle brand that people

in the region are starting to recognise and relate to,”

says Eid. “We try to be selective when it comes to the

events that we participate in, however when the right

opportunity knocks, we grasp it without any hesitation

and this was certainly the case with Fashion Forward.”

Indeed, as Eid acknowledges, EIDEAL’s presence

at Fashion Forward has shed light on the brand and

enhanced its reputation among key media, influencers

and also professional hairstylists. “Our presence back-

stage raised awareness amongst notable people within

the beauty industry,” says Eid. “In fact, a lot of

journalists were intrigued by all of the hairstyles and

were interviewing the senior hairstylists backstage.

Since EIDEAL’s tools were the only ones being used,

the brand got great coverage on shows such as Style

by Aline Watfa on MBC.” g

Fashion Forward Fall/Winter 2016 took

place last month at the very trendy Dubai

Design District. As ever, the event was well

attended by the region’s top fashion media,

bloggers, influencers and fashionistas and

was a fabulous platform for its carefully selected part-

ners to enhance their brand profile.

One such partner was EIDEAL who was named as

the exclusive premium hair tools sponsor of Fashion

Forward’s seventh season. The EIDEAL tools were

being used backstage in all halls to create and bring

the hairstyles the fashion designers had in mind to life.

“The collaboration started last year, when EIDEAL

was contacted by Fashion Forward and we were invit-

ed to be the official hair tools sponsor of season six,”

says Haysam Eid, managing director of EIDEAL. “Due

to last year’s successful partnership, and since Fashion

Forward is the most anticipated fashion event in the

region, we decided to also take part in it this year.

Since its launch, EIDEAL has worked hard to establish

itself as more than just a brand of hair tools and

participating in high-profile events such as Fashion

Professional Beauty discusses the business benefits of partnering with events such as Fashion Forward with EIDEAL’s Haysam Eid

Fashion forward


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71business trends

As part of its partnership with Fashion Forward,

EIDEAL’s presence is usually supported by a video

that plays on all of the event’s screens and which

showcases the brand’s latest beauty campaign, some-

thing that Eid admits is a really useful marketing tool.

“We grasped the bloggers’ attention through our

video which definitely triggered their interest about

EIDEAL because it was more a beauty/fashion

campaign rather than a commercial about hair tools,”

says Eid. “This video is perfectly in sync with Fashion

Forward’s fashionable and trendy vibe and this is one

of the main reasons why EIDEAL and Fashion Forward

are so compatible.”

Eid believes that offering the brand’s partner salons

the opportunity to be involved in one of the UAE’s

most recognisable events enables them to forge even

stronger partnerships. “Our salon partners really

appreciate our participation at such events. They feel

proud and reassured that they are indeed with the

right partners. It warms our heart to hear their posi-

tive feedback and encouragement. We also like to get

them involved with us whenever there’s a chance. In

addition to this, we make sure to invite them to the

event for us to share the success together.”

Although most of the professional hairstylists

working backstage were already familiar with EIDEAL

and loyal to it, thanks to Fashion Forward, EIDEAL

has forged new relationships with salon professionals.

“Those who were not familiar with EIDEAL really loved

the brand and will definitely start using it,” says Eid.

“We are already in touch with the new salons that were

introduced to EIDEAL at Fashion Forward and they are

in the process of becoming our salon partners. Our ad

in the Fashion Forward booklet also definitely played

a major role since everyone had it in hand to check the

schedule and sponsors.”

Being part of an event such as Fashion Forward

also allows the young brand to push its boundaries.

“Getting involved in such events takes EIDEAL to a

new level especially when it comes to the scope of our

work,” says Eid. “We always like to step up our game

and stay ahead. Our participation in such an event

definitely allows us to do so.”

Hot on the heels of its Fashion Forward

success, EIDEAL is lined up to showcase at the

forthcoming Beautyworld Middle East (BWME),

due to take place from 15 -17 May in Dubai. “At

BWME, we will be launching new products and we

will be introducing a major brand to the region,

which I am sure will be a big hit within the industry,”

says Eid. “This year, our stand cannot but

attract the visitors. We worked really hard on

the unique design and I am sure that it will grasp

everyone’s attention. It is not to be missed! We

are also going to spice things up and do some-

thing that we had never done during our previous

participations.”

And participation in BWME is not the only exciting

venture that the ambitious brand is planning. “We are

in the process of organising a really huge programme

that will be taking place for the first time ever in the

Middle East and which will target the professional

hairstylists’ community,” says Eid.

With so much happening, it’s not surprising

this innovative brand is popping up on the hair

industry radar. PB

For more information visit www.eideal.com



72business trends



This month we tried...Kerasilk Repower Treatment at Orchid Beauty Boutique, Sharjah Ladies Club & Gloss, DubaiThe lowdown: Kerasilk is a new premium line

of products and treatments from Goldwell. The

treatments can be customised to meet the individual

needs of each client, with the range split into four

key categories: Repower, Control, Reconstruct

and Colour. Repower is designed to volumise hair,

Control to smooth and reduce frizz, Reconstruct

to repair damaged or poorly conditioned hair and

Colour to enhance the shine and longevity of colour-

ed hair. Utilising high-end ingredients, the treatments

can last up to 10 washes when combined with using

the recommended retail range at home.

PB says: My treatment begins with a consultation,

in my case by Claude, the head trainer for Madi

International, but normally a hairdresser would do

the assessment. After discussing my haircare routine

and any concerns I have, Claude examines my hair

before prescribing a Repower treatment. Although

she notes that I have some frizziness and a little

dryness at the ends, the main concerns lie with the

fineness and lack of body in my hair. The Repower

range incorporates keratin and elastin which will add

body to my hair; furthermore it has Procapil™ and

t-Flavanone to add density and strength. Following

the consultation my hair is washed using the Repower

Volume Shampoo, next the Repower Intensive

Volume Treatment is applied using a brush and with

the majority of the product directed towards the root

and top half of my hair before being combed through

to the ends. This is left on for between 10-20 minutes

before being rinsed from my hair and the Repower

Volume Intensifying Post Treatment applied. The stylist

then blast dries my hair, applying a Repower Volume

Blow Dry Spray before styling and finishing the blow

dry. A final spritz of finishing spray is used before the

dramatic results are revealed. Not only does my hair

boast incredible volume but it feels delightfully soft

and looks super shiny. For such a quick treatment

I’m impressed by the amount of body that has been

injected into my hair, which also feels bouncy and

lightweight. I continue using the Repower Shampoo at

home and my hair retains the shine, softness, improved

density and body – though not quite the same height.

I get to experience this same treatment twice,

just a few weeks apart, with different stylists and

the Repower range is used both times – as the

requirements for my hair haven’t changed – and it

provides a great opportunity to identify any slight

differences in how my hair looks or feels.

Encouragingly, the treatment process is identical,

and in terms of texture and volume, my hair is also

the same. The only significant difference comes

in the actual blow-dry styling, with each stylist opting

for their own take on the finished look.

All in all a fabulous hair makeover in a short timeframe.

Tested by: Zoe Moleshead

Perfectly polished


73treatment news


74business trends



This month we tried...


75treatment news

Signature Manicure at Kure Beauty and SpaThe lowdown: Giving a new take on the concept of

a manicure, Kure has customised its nail treatments

by introducing sumptuous nail oils that are designed

to hydrate nails and cuticles leaving them silky and

refreshed. Furthermore, the oil is selected based on

the time of day of your treatment.

PB says: Both a spa and a retail outlet, Kure is

dedicated to using [and retailing] only organic or

natural products. All its treatment utilise products

of this origin or Kure’s own handmade essential oils.

Entering the spa, I’m struck by the design of the

space. The colour palette is delightfully neutral with

less than a handful of colours evident, the area looks

incredibly clean and fresh, the overall ambience

feels very fitting for a spa whose premise is centred

around natural and organic elements. My therapist

explains to me that they use five different oils in nail

treatments, with the time of day dictating the oil that

is used. Among the oil choices are Wake Up, Energy,

D-Stress, Basic and Blow Away – the latter of which is

selected for me as I’m visiting the spa late afternoon

/ early evening. Blow Away has an almond oil base

and is blended together with rose oil, it is designed to

reinvigorate, revitalise and refresh after a hectic day.

The oil’s aroma is subtle and pleasant and it is infused

throughout the creams or products that are used in

the nail treatment.

The nail polishes are by Smith and Cult, a range

which Kure founder Myriam Sarfati tells me she

sought long and hard to find, and are five-free,

meaning they have been formulated without dibutyl,

phthalate, toluene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde

resin and camphor. The therapist helps me to se-

lect a colour asking whether I am looking for a light

or dark shade, I opt for a colour that looks like a

soft beige in the bottle, but on the nail provides an

almost transparent finish, it’s a near-perfect match for

my natural nail colour, and exactly what I was looking

for. The Smith and Cult polishes, I’m told, were also

chosen for their long-lasting results, something

which can be more challenging to achieve with

five-free ranges. The therapist has a decidedly gentle

touch as she carries out the manicure and this is echoed

in her light-handedness in tending my cuticles, trim-

ming away only the smallest amounts. The treatment is

relaxing and pleasant and the finish exactly what I was

looking for. Days later the polish is holding true to its

word, remaining unchipped and in tact. Impressed

with the results, I’d certainly be happy to return,

probably at a different time of day to experience one

of the other oils.

Tested by: Zoe Moleshead


76


product news

Check out our top product picks and new launches for May

Cream of the crop

Quattro gThe QP-10 professional cordless hair trimmer

promises to take hair styling to the next level.

The ultra-close 0.3mm cutting feature with a sharp

accuracy blade can create many patterns and

designs. The trimmer is comfortable to use thanks to its

featherlight weight and ergonomic design and you can

select your favourite colour out of the eight available.

Call + 971 4 338 27 73

Omorovicza fThe Gold Night Drops work in three stages to resurface wrinkles, repair and

strengthen, and hydrate and nourish the skin at night when skin is most

receptive to healing. The star ingredient is gold, a powerful anti-inflammatory

that repairs accumulated micro-damage and strengthens the skin. Other

active ingredients include Vitamin A (encapsulated retinol) to resurface

fine lines and wrinkles and vitamin C to brighten, tone and help reduce the

appearance of age spots. The product also contains Omega 6 Ceramide to

retexture the lipid matrix for a stronger barrier function and the patented

Hydro Mineral Transference system which delivers minerals to leave skin

firmer, more supple and younger-looking.

Call +971 4 379 19 66

Eminence gRosehip Triple C+E Firming Oil is a nourishing, hydrating and firming

facial oil designed for all skin types. It can help to increase collagen

production, reduce inflammation and soothe the skin. The oil is

packed with botanical sources of vitamins C and E, including rosehip,

jojoba and seabuckthorn oils, which help to fight against free radicals

caused by UV exposure and the effects of glycation.

Call +971 4 220 60 24


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product news

Zoya gThe nail brand has unveiled its spring collection

which includes a range of pretty colours inspired

by seasonal florals. Laurel and Azalea are shades

of pink, while Zahara is a shimmering coral with

an opalescent effect and Tulip a pastel salmon

cream. Finally Aster is a periwinkle-inspired colour

with flecks of fuchsia, and Leia is an opalescent

white with hints of fuchsia, green and gold. All the

polishes are five-free and vegan-friendly too.

Call +971 4 220 60 24

Carol Joy fFor Ever cream is a rich, anti-ageing moisturiser that is potent yet

nourishing. It intensively hydrates, plumping fine lines and wrinkles

for a smoother, radiant complexion with refined Golden Millet Oil that

regenerates the epidermis, boosts moisture, and protects the skin's

barrier. The product’s Peptide Collagen Booster also helps stimulate

collagen, diminishes lines and firms. For Ever cream is suitable for all

skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin.

Call + 971 4 379 19 66

Gharieni gWith a large storage-space integrated

into the base of the table, the new

Gharieni MLW Space can stow two

hot-cabins, towels, blankets and

much more. Like all other Gharieni

MLW models, the spa table is tech-

nically well-equipped, the two lifting

columns adjust the height and also the

angle of inclination up to the “Trendelen-

burg” position, a “zero-gravity” angle

offering optimal relaxation. The bed

is equipped with soft PU upholstery

and synthetic leather upholsteries

are also available in a variety

of colours and a wide range of decors

to enable you to design your MLW

Space to fit perfectly into your studio

or spa.

Call +971 4 276 67 34


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product news

Liane K gThe VL1 Oxygen Filler is a new method and device, introduced by

Liane K, to create silky, shiny hair. A layer of oxygen is applied on

the scalp and hair, followed by a delivery of protein and collagen,

providing a solution to hair loss, dandruff, split ends and damaged

hair in just 15 minutes.

The VL1 Oxygen Filler method allows hairdressers to give enhanced

results when used in combination with cutting and styling, colour,

de-colouration and other services. To see for yourself, book an

in-salon demo.

Call +971 4 441 88 74

Cloud Nine gThe O is a ground-breaking innovation in professional

styling, creating incredible volume in an instant.

The O Pod heats up the soft-grip rollers in less than

four seconds and thanks to the unique induction

technology, the rollers heat from the core. The rollers

get hot in the hair, not in your hand, allowing you to

position the rollers precisely and easily and creating

hair that’s full of body, volume and texture.

Call + 971 4 338 27 73

Kerstin Florian fThe Organic Neroli Blossom Bath and Body Oil employs essential oils to uplift

and renew the spirit. Neroli and rosemary combine in this lightweight blend,

which also contains organic coconut, jojoba, meadowfoam and sunflower oils

to deeply nourish and soften the skin. Derived from the fragrant petals of the

Bitter Orange Blossom, Neroli has long been valued in aromatherapy for its

calming and relaxing scent, which eases anxiety, depression and the stress

response as well as insomnia, heart palpitations and digestive issues.

Call +971 4 379 19 66



79launch analysis

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diary dates

SEND US YOUR DATESSend us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú [email protected]

Diary dates12-13 JUNEPROFESSIONAL BEAUTY DURBANDurban ICC, Durban, South AfricaProfessional Beauty turns its focus to Durban this month, with the second of its three annual South African shows taking place. This event will provide a fantastic platform to network and source suppliers. Alongside a Vibrant Retail Area, exhibitors will be showcasing products ranging from skincare, equipment, software, nails, make-up, tanning and much more. www.probeauty.co.za/

Don’t miss...


1-3 JUNECOSMOBEAUTÉ MYANMARNovotel Yangon Max, Yangon, MyanmarNow entering its third year, the latest edition of this event is moving to a new location, which has been selected for its enhanced facilities and convenience, and close proximity to the airport. Drawing exhibitors from across the globe, the show will once again be targeting beauty salon and spa owners.www.cosmobeauteasia.com/ index.php/myanmar

3-5 JUNEINTERNATIONAL MAKE-UP ARTIST TRADE SHOW - LONDONOlympia National, London, UKBringing together international make-up artists, this show combines education, demonstrations and an exhibition, with many leading artists from fashion and film showcasing their talents. Adding to the engaging line-up for this event is a student competition – Battle of the Brushes, and a Make-Up Museum.www.imats.net/2016-london/

8-9 JUNECOSMETIC BUSINESSMOC Munich, Munich, GermanyThis exhibition features around 400 suppliers whose focus ranges from raw materials to manufacturing and packaging of cosmetics. A specialist professional programme will also offer lectures designed to inspire the product creation process.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair/en

8-11 JUNENATURALTECHBienal do Ibirapuera, Sao Paulo, BrazilFocusing on natural products for the beauty, health, food and sport sectors, the exhibition is open exclusively to trade visitors on the first two days, while the latter two days are also open to the public.www.naturaltech.com.br

9-10 JUNEMAKEUP IN PARISCarrousel du Louvre, Paris, FranceSuppliers and trendsetters unite for this event showcasing the latest innovations in the make-up world. Products and advice will be offered on everything from ingredients and pigments to formulation and packaging. Special B2B networking events will also take place over the two days.makeup-in-paris.com/paris-en/

25-27 JUNEINTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SHOW, LAS VEGASLas Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, USTargeting salon owners, managers and beauty professionals, this show brings together over 350 exhibitors displaying their latest and greatest products. An educational programme featuring free classes, hands-on workshops and masterclasses runs alongside the show, as do a series of competitions for nails, hair and lashes. www.ibslasvegas.com/

Professional Beauty GCC - May 2016

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Transcript of Professional Beauty GCC - May 2016