Pro beauty July 2015

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July 2015 HEATED EXCHANGE Radiofrequency technologies www.probeauty.co.za pay the price Staff squabbles Resolving disputes Busted! TECHS GET TECHNICAL Nail Competition preparation COSTING FACIAL TREATMENTS

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The leading trade publication for the professional beauty industry

Transcript of Pro beauty July 2015

Page 1: Pro beauty July 2015

July 2015

Heated excHangeRadiofrequency technologies

www.probeauty.co.za

paytheprice

Staff squabblesResolving disputes

Busted!TechS geT Technical

Nail Competition preparation

CostiNg faCial tReatmeNts

Page 2: Pro beauty July 2015
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

In this issue...Spa Focus29 Greener pastures Creating an eco-friendly spa

31 How green is your spa? The Green Spa Network

32 Cullinan Hotel opens Mangwanani spa

New spa has African flavour

Medical Aesthetics57 Static ageing The lowdown on dermal fillers

Nails53 From both sides of the ‘Nail

Curtain’ Preparing for the Professional

Beauty Nail Competition

Features34 South of the chin Neck and bust treatments

41 Skincare gets alphabetical The rise of Alphabet Creams

42 The heat is on Latest radiofrequency

technologies

49 Lashing out Eyelash serums

32

34

Regulars5 Industry news Local and international

news

51 Hair news What’s hot and happening

in the hair industry

60 Product news All the latest launches

63 SAAHSP The latest news from

SAAHSP

Business13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa Tracking the industry with

stats

14 Ask the experts All your questions answered

18 An accurate calculation Pricing facial treatments

22 Meet and greet The importance of

networking

24 Conflict resolution How to deal with staff spats

27 Sprucing up Maintaining your salon

18

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Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, RandburgPO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com

On the coverCover source:www.shutterstock.com

Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 [email protected]

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Art Director Ursula Wong 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Sales Manager Belinda Wewege 073 033 8599 [email protected]

International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 [email protected]

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Sales Executive - Classifieds Brenda Mzila 011 781 5970 [email protected]

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Operations Manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Marketing Manager Ryan Rudman 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Marketing Co-ordinator Palisa Shongwe 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Social Media Administrator Penelope Mtshali 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Printers House of Print 011 474 8750

As the world becomes increasingly more environmentally conscious, the

onus is on spas, as users of a wide array of water-based treatments,

laundry services and disposable items, to adopt green practices to

reduce their carbon footprint. This issue of Professional Beauty includes valuable information on how to take the first steps towards

a greener spa operation.

There seems to be a constant dynamic in this industry of fast turnaround of

therapists at spas and salons. A happy therapist, and one who is likely to

stay, is one who is comfortable with her co-workers and environment.

Here we provide tips on how to resolve disputes between staff on any

issues that may arise, such as petty jealousies and perceived laziness.

It’s nearly time for all competitive nail techs to arm themselves with

their tools and creativity to wage war on each other (so to speak) at the

Professional Beauty Nail & Make-up Competitions. As any past winner

will tell you, preparation for competitions is of the utmost importance,

which is why this issue features detailed advice from experts on how

to prepare for the biggest and most exciting nail competition of them

all, to take place on 31 August at Gallagher Convention Centre, as part

of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show.

Joanna Sterkowicz

Editor

Welcome

Page 5: Pro beauty July 2015

The six-layer peel is a resurfacing and regenerating procedure, excellent for uneven textured skin, fine lines, pigmentation, sun damage and scarring. It is unique in the fact that it REMOVES and REBUILDS at the same time, for those wanting dramatic results.

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Pro Alpha Six Layer PeelThe Key To Younger Skin Without the Surgery

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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

industry news

“We currently offer Classic

Lashes and Russian

Volume Lashes training

and our new courses are Classic

Advanced Lashes, Lash Art, FlashLash,

Eyebrow Xxtensions and Threading,”

says Luscious Lashes founder Lesley-

ann Altree.

Looking back at the company’s

history, Altree reflects on a decade

of experience, technique updates,

product research testing and working

closely with the manufacturers to

‘tweak’ the product until it is ‘just

right’.

“All this has ensured that we are still

the number one choice in the market,”

continues Altree. “We would like to

thank all our clients and students for

their support, because without them

News in pictures

News5

Luscious Lashes International is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year and will be introducing new courses and products.

we would not have reached our 10th

anniversary.”

Altree did her training in lash

extensions with US-based companies

Novalash and Sassylash more than 10

years ago.

“From a one-woman show, Luscious

Lashes has evolved into an international

company with a comprehensive

network of franchised trainers in South

Africa and elsewhere,” states Altree. “All

our franchise trainers have international

certification in the application of either

Classic and/or Volume extensions

through LASHacademy UK and our

course material is accredited by the

international body LashInc.”

Altree joined an elite club of lash

masters when she was featured in the

Lash Masters Volume 2 book, published

The Hitech Group has

announced the appointment

of Raymond Stevens as

Electronic Service Engineer.

“Raymond brings over 14

years of experience in the

electronic service field to

Hitech Lasers, Medilase and

Hitech Laser Systems. With

his wide technical experience

and specialised knowledge

of electronics, we know that

Raymond will be a great

addition to our team.

“In May Raymond attended

a comprehensive training

programme at Lumenis

on their range of aesthetic

products,” says Naomi Olivier

of the Hitech Group.

Stevens joins Hitech

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

A lash-filled decade

this year. She is the first South African

and one of only 30 people worldwide

to feature in this international best-

selling publication.

International MUD (Make-up Designory)

executives, Troy Watson and Paul Thompson,

joined MUD South Africa owner, Brenda Botha,

to launch the country’s first ever MUD Studio, at

Morning Glen Mall in Johannesburg on 4 June.

Page 8: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

6 industry news

“We know that nothing

similar to our Green

Peel treatments is

available in South Africa. Furthermore,

we’ve had requests in the past from

South African beauticians wanting to

know how they can get our products.

“Last year we visited the

Professional Beauty Johannesburg

Show to assess the South African

market. We decided to start our active

acquisition process by exhibiting in

this year’s show at the end of August,”

says export manager Birgit Schmitz.

She believes that the Dr. med.

Christine Schrammek Kosmetik range

is unique. “Our Green Peel treatments

are organic and, in combination with

our derma.cosmetics products, we are

able to help anybody who has serious

Dr Schrammek comes to SA News in brief

skin problems. We have a history of

nearly 60 years coupled with proven

success in more than 50 countries.”

Dr Schrammek-Drusio

Philippe and Sylvie Hennessy have again

gained complete executive ownership of

speciality spa skincare brand, Pevonia

International LLC.

The Hennessys are the original

founders of Pevonia, and were the

previous sole owners of the company

from its inception in 1991 until its sale to

an equity partner in 2008.

They plan to drive new global

expansion of the brand and continued

growth in existing markets.

■ Sorbet to open in UK: South

African beauty franchise Sorbet

will open its first Sorbet Salon

in Muswell Hill, London during

July this year. The salon will be

company-owned, with a further

two company-owned salons to

open over the next year, before

franchising opportunities will

open.

■ Chanel’s first spa: Designer

fashion brand Chanel is to

open its first-ever spa in Paris.

The spa will form part of the

Ritz Hotel Paris’ three-year

renovation and will open at the

end of the year. Chanel Au Ritz

Paris will be wholly devoted to

Chanel’s skincare brand.

■ Hotels still slow to offer online spa bookings: The

Luxury Hotels Digital IQ Index,

released by digital think-tank

L2, revealed that just 41% of

high-end hotels give customers

the option to book their spa

services online. This result

constitutes a 4% increase, up

from 37% last year.

■ Silver Edition ofPro-Collagen Marine Cream: In

celebration of 25 years, luxury

British spa brand Elemis has

launched the Pro-Collagen

Marine Cream Silver Edition in a

bumper 100ml size, as opposed

to the regular 50ml size.

■ TanOrganic’s Beauty Blogger Awards: Sunless

tanning brand TanOrganic

has introduced the 1st annual

South Africa Beauty Blogger

Awards, to run concurrently

with the Ireland Beauty Blogger

Awards. South African winners

will be announced on 22

August 2015 at a gala event in

Johannesburg.

Hennessys reclaim helm at Pevonia

News in pictures The Faculty of Health

& Environmental

Sciences at Central

University of

Technology (CUT),

Free State launched

the Somatology CUT

Spa on 4 June at the

CUT Bloemfontein

Campus.

The Dr. med. Christina schrammek Kosmetik brand is now in south Africa and is seeking a local distributor.

Page 9: Pro beauty July 2015

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Page 11: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

9 industry news

Says Beautiful Brows co-founder

Unaiza Moideen: “We opened

our first kiosk at Clearwater Mall

in August 2011. This August we will

move to a bigger space in the mall –

this will be our flagship and concept

store in the country.

“In addition, this year The Brow Bar

will open in Melrose, Mall of the South,

Durban Florida Road and Sandton City.

Our projected stores for 2016 will be

in the vicinity of Pretoria, Cape Town,

Bedfordview, Nicolway and Durban.”

Moideen notes that The Brow Bar

aims to start selling franchises at the

Big moves at Brow BarThe Brow Bar, formerly known as Beautiful Brows, will be opening several express threading kiosks this year, as well as launching what is believed to be the first brow training school in south Africa.

middle of 2016. Services offered at

The Brow Bar are threading, eyelash

extensions, brow- and lash-tinting,

lash-perming, henna, permanent

make-up and lash perming.

She expects the training school

to be operational in the third quarter

of this year. The school is currently

working towards accreditation with

the Services SETA (Sector Education

& Training Authority), CIDESCO

(World Standard for Beauty & Spa

Therapy), ITEC (International Therapy

Examination Council) and SAAHSP

(South African Association of Health &

Skincare Professionals).

Spa Consultants awards top stockists

The Spa Consultants held its annual

awards on 9 May at the Private

Room in Kyalami, Johannesburg

to announce its top stockists and

therapists for the Spalicious and Six

Sensational Skincare brands.

Mokwena won the Top Therapist

for Spalicious Award.

Renata Lupini was judged to be

Sales Rep of the Year.

“We hosted 140 guests at

the event and it was an amazing

night,” says Marisa Dimitriadis, MD

of The Spa Consultants.

Mount Grace in Magaliesburg won

the Top Spa award, while Hair Sole

in Pietermaritzburg was judged Top

Salon.

The Top Therapist for Six

Sensational Skincare was Annita

Gunpath from Hair Sole.

Cradle Health Spa’s Petunia

Page 12: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

10 industry news

The hotel opted for a Relax Mini

Spa Suite, which comprises

a couple’s room with a rain

shower, single room, manicure station

and a reception area.

Relax founder and operations

director Noli Mini describes a Mini

Spa Suite as ‘a mini luxury day spa

escape where a guest/client can enjoy

spa treatments of the same calibre

as that of a fully pledged spa, in a

cozy, intimate, luxurious and exclusive

setting’.

Breakwater’s Mini Spa Suite is

populated by two full time therapists,

student therapists and a spa manager.

It offers facials, manicures and

pedicures, waxing, body wraps and

body scrubs.

Mini made the decision to open a

Relax Mini Spa Suite at Breakwater

for a number of reasons. “Within the

hotel is the UCT Graduate School

of Business where top corporate

companies send their staff for day/

weekly or even monthly study

programmes. This proved that there

is definitely a market for spa services,

especially considering how stressful it

is at times for academics.

“It also made sense to open at this

venue due to the positive response

we got from hotel guests and from

our stats. In addition, Breakwater has

historic significance, having previously

been a prison. The building itself has

been in existence since 1901.”

One of the brands used at the Mini

Spa Suite is Noli Mini Spa Products,

which she herself created. Three

different massage oils, a cuticle oil

and brown sugar body polish form

part of this range, with the facial and

body range still in

development.

The spa also

offers CSpa,

Gelish and Medi-

Heel. Products

are available for retail.

Breakwater is the first Relax Mini

Spa Suite and Mini plans to grow this

number to four by the end of 2016.

“Relax has formed exclusive

partnerships with over seven hotels in

Cape Town and the goal for the next

two years is to create Spa Suites at

some of those properties,” notes Mini.

Relax Mini Spa opens at Breakwater

Noli Mini

For the first time ever, the Protea Hotel Breakwater Lodge at Cape Town’s V&A waterfront has opened a spa facility.

News in pictures

Micro-needling pioneer and

Environ founder Dr Des Fernandes

delivered the first address at the

recent CIDESCO World Congress

held at the Sandton International

Convention Centre in Johannesburg.

Fernandes spoke on micro-needling

versus mesotherapy.

Prana Products’ assets and distribution footprint

have been acquired by the Imbalie Beauty Group.

The main product and equipment brands of

Prana Products that will now be incorporated into

the Imbalie Beauty stable are Beauté Pacifique,

Dermascan equipment, Bodyography Professional

Cosmetics, and the Beauty Blender make-up tool.

Prana’s Debbie Wolfendale will become

executive director of Imbalie Beauty in charge of

the sales, marketing and training businesses.

Esna Colyn will continue as the CEO of the

Imbalie Beauty Group, which has both its own

distribution footprint and a franchised distribution

footprint. Together this comprises 160 beauty

salons in South Africa.

Imbalie acquires Prana

Page 13: Pro beauty July 2015

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Page 14: Pro beauty July 2015

Day Spa of the Year Touch @ Seasons

Urban GlowDanika Spa

Salon of the Year (3 Room or Less)Midori Eco Salon

Madeleen Health & Beauty StudioSkin and Nail Lounge

Salon of the Year (4 Rooms or More)Sherbet AngelBeauty Studio

Professional Skin Care Lab

Resort/Hotel Spa of the YearBushmans Kloof

The Twelve ApostlesKurland Luxury Spa

Nail Salon of the YearSOHO Nails l Waxing l Beauty

Nina Belle Nail SpaSorbet Nails Hyde Park

Aesthetic Clinic of the YearPure Esthetics

The Laser Beautique, BedfordviewThe Laser Beautique, Woodlands

Therapist of the YearCharlene Oosthuysen, The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle Store

& Skincare StudioTiffani Dreyer, Laser Beautique

Chrizanne van Eeden, Laser Beautique

Spa/Salon Manager of the YearCecilia Labuschagne, Beauty Studio

Marian Nelson, Origin Day SpaElaine Theunissen, Danika Spa

Calgel

This year’s event will be held at Room 5 in Rivoniaon Sunday 30th August 2015 and is a Black Tie Event.Tickets are R490.00 per personand R4, 500.00 (table of 10).

To Book your TickETS contact:[email protected]

Gala Dinner & awarDs

Your MC for the evening is

Joe Parker who has a unique outlook on south African life.

Find ouT who will won the prestigiousProfessional Beauty Awards, andProfessional Beauty industry Awards.

Sponsored by:

Congratulations to the finalists

Live MusiC froM brent hArris & thee jAM

Awards.indd 1 2015/06/25 11:10 AM

Page 15: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

13

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2015

COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

InSIder SAlonMay 2015 looked good for most of you as you said goodbye

to the Easter public holidays. Fifty percent of you said

treatment business was up and 17% attributed this to new

and increased numbers of staff. One respondent mentioned

that even though there was a price increase, business still

went up. However, 42% of you said treatment business had

gone down. A few respondents said this may be because of

winter, as clients seem to go into hibernation. Eight percent

of you said that treatment business was the same.

Popular products seem to be assisting

in keeping retail business up, as 37%

of you said business has gone up,

while 36% of you said it has gone

down for pretty much the same

reason as treatment business.

Twenty-seven percent of you said

business stayed the same, while

8% of you do not sell retail at all.

Fifty percent of you conduct

staff reviews monthly, 8% once a week,

another 8% once every three months.

The remaining 8% conduct staff reviews

once every six months. Seventeen percent of you hire your

staff out.

All respondents use paper based system for their client

consultation cards. Some of you said that you found cards a

more reliable system than tablets.

The month in numbers

InSIder SPAThe spa industry experienced an excellent May 2015

in terms of treatment business and especially, retail

sales. One respondent attributed the hike in both

treatment business and retail to Mother’s Day, while

other spas reported that their retail was much better

due to therapist training and the taking on of new,

sales-focused staff.

It seems that technology has not yet infiltrated the

Client Consultation Card system, as all spas polled

record clients’ details on cards as opposed to tablets.

In most instances, once clients complete consultation

cards, the details are then input into computers.

All spas polled conduct regular staff reviews –

the average seems to be every

two to three months. Some

spas conduct reviews on

an on-going basis, based

on feedback from clients

following treatments.

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

67%

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2015

COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

57%

50% BETTER

8% SAME

42% WORSE

37% BETTER

27% SAME

36% WORSE

81% BETTER

1% SAME

18% WORSE

HOW DID TREATMENT

BUSINESS IN MAY 2015 COMPARE

WITH MAY 2014?

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY

2015 COMPARE WITH MAY 2014?

78% BETTER

2% SAME

20% WORSE

InsiderInsider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, east London and Port elizabeth to track business in May 2015.

business trends

Day Spa of the Year Touch @ Seasons

Urban GlowDanika Spa

Salon of the Year (3 Room or Less)Midori Eco Salon

Madeleen Health & Beauty StudioSkin and Nail Lounge

Salon of the Year (4 Rooms or More)Sherbet AngelBeauty Studio

Professional Skin Care Lab

Resort/Hotel Spa of the YearBushmans Kloof

The Twelve ApostlesKurland Luxury Spa

Nail Salon of the YearSOHO Nails l Waxing l Beauty

Nina Belle Nail SpaSorbet Nails Hyde Park

Aesthetic Clinic of the YearPure Esthetics

The Laser Beautique, BedfordviewThe Laser Beautique, Woodlands

Therapist of the YearCharlene Oosthuysen, The Spa Warehouse Lifestyle Store

& Skincare StudioTiffani Dreyer, Laser Beautique

Chrizanne van Eeden, Laser Beautique

Spa/Salon Manager of the YearCecilia Labuschagne, Beauty Studio

Marian Nelson, Origin Day SpaElaine Theunissen, Danika Spa

Calgel

This year’s event will be held at Room 5 in Rivoniaon Sunday 30th August 2015 and is a Black Tie Event.Tickets are R490.00 per personand R4, 500.00 (table of 10).

To Book your TickETS contact:[email protected]

Gala Dinner & awarDs

Your MC for the evening is

Joe Parker who has a unique outlook on south African life.

Find ouT who will won the prestigiousProfessional Beauty Awards, andProfessional Beauty industry Awards.

Sponsored by:

Congratulations to the finalists

Live MusiC froM brent hArris & thee jAM

Awards.indd 1 2015/06/25 11:10 AM

Page 16: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

14 business tips

Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

Ask the experts

The origin of life on our planet was 3 billion years

ago, with the first living cells being single cell

blue algae. Recent studies show that the use

of algae in skincare products has more than doubled

since 2004. This is due to the fact that seawater and

seaweed are in perfect affinity with our skin and ‘bio-

available’ to the human body. This is one of the reasons

why marine products are so efficient, as this remarkable

affinity maintains the dynamic balance of the epidermis

and delivers all vital micronutrients to ensure a healthy,

youthful skin.

With over 60 different bio-available mineral salts in

seawater, the human body requires approximately 20 of

these whilst only eight are commonly found in agricultural

soils. Alongside algae, the oceans are also a rich source

of marine collagen, vital in its anti-ageing properties.

Research shows that the anti-ageing effects of marine

ingredients provide some of the top results in the world.

Off the Japanese coast, the island of Okinawa has a

population of approximately 1.4 million. In 2006, one in

every 1 838 people were over 100 years old. A key source

of their youth? A diet rich in marine ingredients.

The latest marine active is sea fennel – enhancing skin

regeneration and improving excessive pigmentation.

With consistent preservation, a strong code of ethics

and sustainable development, the use of algae in skincare

products is set to soar.

Why are skincare products with marine ingredients so good for my skin?

Sonette donker is the owner of Skin iD and is an internationally qualified professional skincare therapist with nearly 20 years of experience in the industry. She has worked for companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula.

Alison Yammin is brand manager at Marine Spa Distributors. In 2014 Yammin won the ‘Think Big Award’ at the Mega Partnering Africa Conference.

I want to open my own skincare clinic – where do I start?

Start with your unique selling point – what makes

you different from your competitors? Pinpoint the

reason a client should visit you – is it your customer

service, your knowledgeable staff, the treatments you

offer, or the brands you stock?

Another very important consideration is who you

want as a client, as this will determine your location,

marketing strategy, services, products and hours.

Once you have decided on these fundamental

elements you can develop your marketing strategy to

create awareness around your skincare clinic. Included

in this strategy must be PR elements such as inviting

beauty editors and beauty bloggers to experience your

services. If you have no contacts, hire a PR company to

assist you.

Create a website for your skincare clinic that showcases

your treatments, customer service elements and staff.

Get active on social media by choosing the correct

platform for your business and your communication on

these platforms.

Collaborate with like-minded businesses that have

the same target audience as you. This allows you to

promote your services to consumers who are likely to

become clients. In my experience nothing works better

than ‘word of mouth’ in our industry.

Visit companies in close proximity and invite the

employees to visit your skincare clinic and offer them

added value for the first month on any service.

Get all your operational functions in place, ie staff

training, computer system, ordering procedure, etc.

Last, but most important, is the budget you have

available to set up your business and run it for the first

year. Without the money, nothing can happen.

Page 17: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

business tips

15

do YoU HAVe AnY QUeSTIonS To PUT To oUr eXPerTS?Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to [email protected]

As with all customer-related

vocations you need passion.

Without passion it is simply

just another job. Life at sea is a unique

experience and your job is to enhance

the cruising experience of the guests

on board.

As a qualified professional, whether

you’re a beauty therapist, hairdresser,

fitness instructor, nail technician or

massage therapist, you need passion

and focus to be able to provide the

best possible service and to exceed

the expectations of every guest.

I like to take ordinary people and

make them extraordinary. Essential

character traits that I look for are:

• Confidence

• Hard-working,witha‘can-do’

attitude

• Charmingandfriendly

• Energeticandtalented.

• Most importantly,SMILE,as it says

a thousand words. Life at sea can

be hard work, but the rewards are

phenomenal. As is often said, ‘You

get out of life what you put into it’.

Anyone who is considering

applying to work on a cruise liner is

Ginnais roelofsz is Steiner’s recruitment manager for South Africa. She has worked with Steiner since 2010, having been on board the Carnival Spirit, Freedom and Fantasy. Roelofsz studied at Camelot International in Houghton and has a diploma in Somatology.

Melinda van der Walt has been waxing clients for more than 20 years. She trains students and beauty therapists, and offers advanced courses at Helia-D International Health and Beauty Training College, as well as in the Cubicle Conversion loyalty programme.

What specific aftercare tips should I give to men following waxing?

Aftercare advice immediately after waxing includes applying a

disinfecting gel that stops infection and ingrown hairs from

occurring. A soothing cream is not sufficient for this purpose.

Exfoliation is essential for areas that are waxed on a daily basis.

Exfoliation is done whilst bathing or showering, using the exfoliator

silicone ripple sponge and not a soft face cloth. Using shower gels or

soaps with the exfoliator must be done a daily basis and on the same day

as when waxed.

I advise male clients not to go to the gym for a few hours after waxing,

and to avoid any sessions on the sun bed or in the sauna, as

this increases blood circulation and irritates the pores.

required to be qualified in their chosen

profession, both nationally and

internationally. I recruit all year round –

beauty therapists, massage therapists,

nail technicians, fitness instructors and

hairstylists.

South Africans are highly sought

after on cruise liners because of our

outstanding work ethic.

What character traits and skills do I need to qualify as a candidate to work on a cruise liner?

Page 18: Pro beauty July 2015

Attend the Beauty, Hair and Spa event of the year.

The latest trends, treatment and brands at your fi ngertips.

Have access to suppliers, seminars, conventions, demos,

exciting competitions and over 200 exhibitors under one roof.

JOHANNESBURG 2015

INSPIRED BY BEAUTY,let your journey begin

Professional Beauty Johannesburg

30 – 31 August 2015 Gallagher Convention Centre

International SpaConvention

Revitalize your beauty…Revitalize your soul.

Nails and Make-upJoin us for the Nail & Make-up

Competition as well as the NEW Nail Professionals Workshop.

Medical AestheticsThe art of the impossible,has just become possible

www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Register for your free ticket today!

www.probeauty.co.za

Attend the Beauty, Hair and Spa event of the year.

The latest trends, treatment and brands at your fi ngertips.

Have access to suppliers, seminars, conventions, demos,

exciting competitions and over 200 exhibitors under one roof.

let your journey begin

Page 19: Pro beauty July 2015

Attend the Beauty, Hair and Spa event of the year.

The latest trends, treatment and brands at your fi ngertips.

Have access to suppliers, seminars, conventions, demos,

exciting competitions and over 200 exhibitors under one roof.

JOHANNESBURG 2015

INSPIRED BY BEAUTY,let your journey begin

Professional Beauty Johannesburg

30 – 31 August 2015 Gallagher Convention Centre

International SpaConvention

Revitalize your beauty…Revitalize your soul.

Nails and Make-upJoin us for the Nail & Make-up

Competition as well as the NEW Nail Professionals Workshop.

Medical AestheticsThe art of the impossible,has just become possible

www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Register for your free ticket today!

www.probeauty.co.za

Attend the Beauty, Hair and Spa event of the year.

The latest trends, treatment and brands at your fi ngertips.

Have access to suppliers, seminars, conventions, demos,

exciting competitions and over 200 exhibitors under one roof.

let your journey begin

Page 20: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

18 business tips

Professional Beauty asked Francisco Garcia, group spa operations director of Amani spas, to shed some insight on how to price facial treatments in the spa.

An accuratecalculation

One of the most important

tasks for a spa manager or

spa owner is to price the

services they offer correctly,

based on the information

and guidelines provided by the product houses.

Pricing spa services accurately is an exercise

that needs to be meticulously designed. It

requires the application of correct business

principles, so as to charge the right amount in

order to be able to make enough profit. But, on

the other hand, we need to be very careful to

not out-price ourselves in relation to the same

service rendered at one of our competitors.

SO, hOw DO wE START DOING ThIS?

First of all, there is no magic formula that

dictates this process. We all work on estimates

and on industry standards. There are many

points of view that you can bring in when going

through this pricing exercise. There are so many

variants that you can add to analyse this that

it could be a very daunting exercise. I always

think it is best to keep it simple and concise so

it’s not such a difficult task to complete.

The best advice I can give, before the

manager actually gets to price your facials for

the customers, would be to make sure you get

accurate and updated treatment costings from

your supplier. It is crucial to understand these

costings perfectly.

Once you have a proper understanding of

the costings, the supplier would give you a

recommended selling price as per industry R

Page 21: Pro beauty July 2015

business tips

19

Professional Beauty July 2015

Page 22: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

20

standards, or the standard that

they, as suppliers, consider

acceptable. You, as a spa manager

or owner, are free to stick to this

recommended selling price. This

selling price would have been

worked out using a certain mark-up

%. The industry standard is to mark

it up by between 400% and 500%.

(Take the cost price and multiply x

4 (for 400%) or x 5 (for 500%).

cost of sales is another one and

profit margin yet another.

The best advice I can give is to

mark-up your facial treatments by

between 400% and 500%, whilst

still keeping price parity between

your competitors.

The industry standard cost of

goods (cost of sales) for facials

is between 25% and 30% cost of

sale for a standard facial. That

for advanced facials could be

between 30% and 40%. I would

not recommend going higher

than a cost of goods of 40%,

as this calculation only takes

into consideration the products

used in that treatment, and not

the therapist’s time, or the 10%

commission you have to pay the

therapist.

To calculate the cost of sales

percentage, you would take the

cost of the facial (as given to you

by your supplier) and divide it by

the selling price, then multiply by

100.

If the figure achieved is 25%

this will mean that the cost of

the facial is 25% and your profit

margin is 75%. In numbers, this will

mean that if you charge R400 for

a facial, and your cost of sales is

25%, your cost is R100 and your

profit will be R300.

Mark-upDo not be deceived by the figures

of the mark-up as they can be

misleading and give you an incorrect

idea of what the actual cost is.

Remember: mark-up is one thing;

Make sure you get accurate and

updated treatment costings from your

supplier. It is crucial to understand these costings perfectly.

Page 23: Pro beauty July 2015

business tips

21

Professional Beauty July 2015

Francisco Garcia is the group spa operations director of Amani Spas and has been in the industry since 2008. He was formerly spa director of Arabella Hotel and Spa, and, prior to that, spa manager of Mount Grace Country House. Email [email protected]

Therapist commissionOne of the most common variants that you can add

to this cost of goods will be the fact that you have to

pay 10% commission to the therapist, thus increasing

the overall total cost of goods. To factor this in you

will then take your cost of goods = R100 + the 10%

commission of the total selling price = R40. This will

increase your cost to R140, which divided by R400

(selling price) will give you a 35% cost of sales, and a

65% profit margin.

You could drive yourself mad by factoring in

how much water, electricity, etc. you consume per

treatment, but to be honest I wouldn’t take these

factors into consideration. Just concentrate on the

cost of goods and the commission you pay out.

Season sales and bulk buyingOne way to reduce the cost of sales and increase your

profit margin would be to benefit from the supplier’s

season sales. Or you could benefit from bulk-buying

purchasing structures and receive a higher discount

% on the cost of the products, thus enabling you to

have higher profit margins.

Even though facials are one of the treatments with

the highest cost of sales, at the same time they also

are the highest retail-revenue-yielding treatments.

Despite the high cost to produce the facial, they are

normally strongly linked to great retail sales. PB

Page 24: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

22 business tips

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

The Professional Beauty Johannesburg Trade

Show is almost upon us, and alongside

this expo runs the Pro Beauty Networking

Breakfast Event. One word here is key:

networking.

Do you embrace networking? Are you good at it, or

does it perhaps terrify you? We actually all network on a

daily basis, even if we think we don’t. For example:

“I have an amazing wax supplier, you really should try

this wax.”

“My friend Jenny is looking for a spa gift voucher, any

suggestions?”

“Hi there. I’m Jenny, nice to meet you.”

Networking is not about collecting business cards

that you put away and never look at again. It is about

interacting with people who could become future clients,

or who could refer future clients to you. Networking is

about building up relationships with like-minded people,

all with the same common interests and goals as you.

Show upTrade shows are a fantastic way to meet people and

introduce your business, and, most importantly, to get

your name out there. This is where you need to have a

networking strategy.

Networking need not be intense, but it is a two way-

street. When you meet someone you need to tell them all

about your business, while showing huge interest in theirs.

Before the upcoming International Spa Convention, which

runs alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg, learn

as much as you can about the delegates. Use LinkedIn,

company websites or social media. Be clear about who

you want to meet, have a strategy in place, and stick to it.

The anxiety factorFor some people though, meeting and talking to new

people can bring on an anxiety attack. According to stats,

51% of people feel anxious about not knowing anyone at a

conference and 42% worry about introducing themselves

to new people. To help you gain confidence, try some of

the following:

• Joinprofessionalorganisationsrelatedtoyourbusiness.

Have a résumé, business cards and a mobile phone at all

meetings.

• Giveasolidhandshake.

• Extendyourself–sayhellotoeveryone.

• Dresswell,holdyourheaduphigh, lookconfidentand

you will be confident.

• And, the most important thing, especially if you are

nervous, is to be prepared. When someone asks what

you do, answer concisely. Prepare a fabulous, memorable

pitch (of between 10 and 30 seconds) that clearly

communicates what you do and for whom you do it. This

is known as the elevator pitch – it will get you through

anything!

• Andthenalwaysfollowthrough.Ifyoupromisetosend

a mail, call or contact someone – do it timeously. People

do business with people they know, like and trust.

Be yourself. Be confident. Be amazing. Get out there.

Network. Enjoy! PB

Meet and greet Networking is seriously important and an essential part of any kind of business, writes Debbie Merdjan.

Page 25: Pro beauty July 2015

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Page 26: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

24

With a new generation

workforce entering

the industry,

employee qualities

are lacking in terms

of interpersonal skills, problem-

solving, emotional intelligence, service

attitude and the desire to learn.

Stephen R. Covey said, “Begin

with the end in mind”. We teach our

clients that prevention is better than

cure. Let’s apply this sound advice to

ourselves.

The interview stageThis is your opportunity to find out

more about how the employee was

brought up, what her challenges are,

and how she deals with conflict. It will

also reveal where you can assist in her

growth.

Do not employ based on

qualifications, skill and experience

only. Consider including EI (Emotional

Intelligence) testing in the interview

phase. This will assist in determining

emotional maturity, which, at a higher

level, will reduce staff disputes.

Note your current team dynamics

and what personality profile would

best complement the team. If you

have mostly dominant personalities,

rather employ someone who would

balance the team and who is more

even-tempered, introverted and

follows the lead.

employee ManualThe Employee Manual should clearly

outline company rules and standards,

the culture of the business, and so

forth.

Share lessons for a healthy team

dynamic in the manual. For example, if

you are upset with another employee,

rather think about and reflect on it for

a day, sleep on it and deal with it the

following day.

Hands-on managementAs an owner/manager, steer

away from being consumed by

administration. Implement systems

and programmes to free you up to

be a hands-on manager. This leads to

stronger relationships and picking up

on negative vibes before they become

a big issue.

Likewise, there should be unity in

the team. Working different shifts

can lead to staff not really getting

to know each other. Try to have bi-

monthly team get-togethers outside

of the spa/salon in an environment

that encourages relaxation and

interaction on a different level.

If weekly staff meetings are not

possible, do quick, impromptu one-

on-one meetings. Support, guide,

pre-empt and resolve issues here to

prevent them from escalating.

Treat the team fairly and

reasonably, not favouring one

above the other, or allowing double

standards based on performance or

non-performance.

Be sure to do at least two

performance reviews annually to

ascertain areas where staff may be

exceeding the desired standard, or

falling below it.

ProceduresEnsure that your team knows what

the procedure is when conflict arises.

If it is not a big thing – let it go and

move on. Once the emotions have

salon and spa owners/managers can spend around 50% of their time resolving staff disputes. Helena van der Vyver provides valuable tips on how to deal with such issues.

Conflict resolution

Page 27: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

business tips

25

died down, I suggest that the people

involved in the dispute try to talk it

out and understand the situation

from each person’s point of view.

If talking to each other doesn’t

resolve the dispute, the manager

should be approached to act as a

neutral mediator. In this meeting you

should cover: ‘If you could do it over

again, what would you do differently

to have a better outcome?’ Following

this meeting possible counselling or

discipline may be necessary.

Spend additional time mentoring

an employee if a pattern emerges

that leads to staff disputes.

Have house rules in place and

display or circulate them in the staff

room. For example, “This is a no

swearing, gossiping or screaming

zone.”

Disputes often start in the mind, so

think the best, not the worst.

ScenariosDispute: A squabble between

therapists regarding petty jealousies.

Solution: Keep them busy. You’d be

amazed at what boredom and not

having anything to do can lead to.

Sometimes it’s a personality clash

or cultural difference. In the next

staff meeting, have each of the

squabbling therapists share a quality

they appreciate in the other one.

Furthermore, make it a culture in your

business to be mindful to praise staff

when they do well. Praise them in

front of others and put a handwritten

note and a small chocolate in their in-

tray. Discipline should be done one-

on-one and not in front of others,

which could lead to embarrassment.

Dispute: A therapist is expecting to

be promoted to senior therapist and

then another therapist is promoted

instead.

Solution: A vacant position should

be open for applications from your

full team. Existing staff should have

a career plan evident from previous

performance review meetings.

Applications should be assessed and

interviews done with those who make

it to that stage. Those who don’t

should be advised of the reason.

Open communication and fairness

should triumph.

Dispute: Laziness. If one of the

therapists is lazy, it could irritate the

other therapists, especially if the

laziness goes unnoticed by the salon/

spa manager.

Solution: Systems should not allow

for laziness. Basic and specific

cleaning standards expected per

employee should be clear to all

upon commencement of duty and

re-iterated in meetings. Weekly

accountability should be in place

and overseen by managerial staff. If a

pattern of not meeting the standards

emerges, then counselling and further

discipline should be applied. It is very

important to ascertain if it is a skills

problem or an attitude problem. PB

Helena van der Vyver of 1ne s.p.a has more than 20 years of experience in the salon and spa industry. She became a spa coach in 2014 for home salons, salons and spas. Email: [email protected]

InTerPerSonAl SkIllSTeach your staff the following:

• Tobeslowtoangerandnottotakeoffence

easily;

• Toknowwhotheyareandnottotake

thingspersonally;

• Tolookatthingsobjectively,ratherthan

fromanemotionallyreactiveangle;

• Tobeassertiveinstatingtheirbeliefsand

opinions,whilesimultaneouslyrespecting

otherpeople’spointsofview;

• Tosetanexampleofwhattheybelieveis

theexpectedstandard;

• Toruntheirownrace.Everyoneshouldbe

theirownfiercestcompetitor;

• Tonotsweatthesmallstuff.Sometimesan

employeemaybeinthewrong,but,inthe

biggerschemeofthings,it’snottheendof

theworld.Ratherchoosetoletitgo.

The more that staff can create their own

happy place, the less others will be able

to influence them negatively.

Page 28: Pro beauty July 2015

www.cal-mo.com 011 624 1101

Calgel

Page 29: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

27 business tips

Keeping the salon looking fresh and well maintained is a constant, unticked box, as salons and treatment rooms take a lot of wear and tear, writes Hellen Ward.

A beauty salon by its very

nature must be pristine

– clinical but welcoming,

and as perfectly

polished, groomed and

preserved as the treatments we are

offering.

In my salon we have a footfall of

1000 clients per week and 93 staff, so

it’s inevitable that a good percentage

of our monthly turnover goes on

maintenance. A huge chunk of money

is constantly reinvested. After all, if the

salon doesn’t match the promise, and

is grubby or uncared for, I can’t protect

my precious price point. People expect

to enjoy luxurious surroundings if they

are paying top dollar.

Major refurbishment obviously

requires much more capital

expenditure than mere cosmetic

retouching. The shelf life of major

equipment (couches, stools, trolleys,

mirrors, floor tiles, air conditioning and

lighting) is limited in a public place

that takes continual battering. I often

get asked; is it really that important?

The answer is, sadly, yes!

Yet many salons don’t seem to

think that constant reinvestment is

necessary, arguing that clients don’t

notice the odd shabby towel or

chipped paint. Why should our clients

feel any different if they have to sit

on grubby stools, or have intensely

personal treatments conducted in less

than sterile and pristine surroundings?

People do notice more than we think.

For every one client who bothers to

complain, there are 10 others who feel

the same but don’t bother to tell you.

You only have to visit review sites like

TripAdvisor to know that!

But keeping on top of our critical,

client-facing areas requires constant

attention. I recently said that having

a business is like having a baby

who never grows up. It will always

need parenting, control, diversion,

supervision, and, above all, TLC.

Attention to detail is crucial, and does

not go unnoticed by the great paying

public.

More to the point, reinvestment in

surroundings with new equipment,

fresh paint and a good old spruce

up doesn’t go unnoticed by the team

working in them. There’s nothing

more beneficial to productivity and

customer service, both from the client

and the staff’s perspective, in ensuring

that the message that gets sent out is

– ‘I notice! I care! I’m bothered if things

aren’t perfect’.

If the salon, spa and treatment

rooms are well maintained and cared

for, the team working in them and the

clients enjoying those surroundings

will look after them, too. It’s a bit like

ex-Mayor of New York Rudy Giuliani

taking a zero tolerance policy to

the city’s once-burgeoning problem

with graffiti. He took the approach

that whatever graffiti he spotted, he

would repaint within 24 hours. Tubes,

subways, public places – he had a swat

team to stamp out anything that made

New York look unloved and uncared

for, following the broken window

principle (if there is a street with a

window left smashed, it’s inevitable

that more windows will be vandalised).

And it worked. New York no longer

has anything like the problem it used

to with crime and vandalism, because

the vandals realised their efforts were

in vain. He was on top of it and would

not allow the environment to become

downtrodden.

There’s a message there – so whip

out your cleaning products, and, if

necessary, your paint brushes! We

have to if we want to stay ahead of

the game, and our clients WILL notice.

Rest assured it will be time and money

well spent. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.

Sprucing up

Page 30: Pro beauty July 2015

2015

How high can your SpabuSineSS fly?

For more information: www.probeauty.co.za

30 & 31 August 2015

gallagher Convention Centre

Book now!

• Take home practical ideas to improve your spa• Network with leading professionals• Identify new revenue opportunities• Talks from industry leaders• Jeff Butterworth, chief spa and wellness

officer for LUX Island resorts.

Page 31: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

29 spa focus

Whether you are starting up a new spa or already have an existing business, you are still responsible for contributing your share towards a greener, more sustainable and eco-friendly environment, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

Greener pastures

Let’s start with the basics and get

them going, and, once you have

those in place, then you can look

at different ways to reduce your

carbon footprint and run a more

eco-friendly business.

lightingThe first step here is to switch off any lights that

are not necessary and not in use. Analyse the

type of lighting you are using and ensure that

you move all lighting to energy-efficient options,

such as LED or halogen light bulbs.

Where possible, try to avoid having a main

light switch for the spa that turns on all the

lighting, as this consumes a huge amount of

energy, and it prevents you from switching off

those lights not in use.

energy Look at ways to reduce the consumption of

energy by analysing ventilation, cooling and

heating. I suggest looking into different methods

of heating up the water required for the spa,

such as solar heating and solar thermal hot water

collectors. Look at ways to generate your own

energy, using renewable sources, such as wind,

solar or bio-gas.

During winter try to avoid underfloor heating,

but if you have to make use of it then switch

on areas only needed for that specific day or R

How high can your SpabuSineSS fly?

Book now!

Page 32: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

spa focus

30

treatment. Run your steam rooms

or saunas only when necessary, and

don’t switch them on automatically

for ‘just in case’.

The key is to ensure your team

is trained to enquire when guests

will use facilities, such as steam and

sauna, and only switch them on

when in use.

Water conservationRecycle, treat and conserve water

with systems that don’t require

electricity. Start simply by installing

low-flow faucet aerators through all

taps and shower heads as this can

reduce consumption by up to 50%.

Install dual-flush toilets and

encourage clients to take short

showers and switch off water

whilst soaping. Put up signage to

encourage clients to reduce the

amount of water they use.

PrecycleThis means that before you buy

anything, take into consideration its

packaging; maybe opt to buy bulk

packaged goods without the outer

packaging.

Think about how everything you

purchase will be discarded and if any

recycling can be done.

Recycle as much as possible. Start

by ensuring you have clearly marked

recycling containers. Educate staff and

clients as much as possible in order to

recycle throughout the salon.

Active waste managementGet everyone involved in managing

paper usage. In fact, don’t have

paper lying around and available

for use, rather opt for a paper-free

environment.

Re-use as much as possible and

reduce or stop any disposable items.

Something to really think about in

a salon/spa environment is the use

of disposable underwear; rather

notify guests to bring a spare pair of

their own underwear to support the

greening of your business. Choose

re-usable compresses to use in facial

treatments instead of disposable

sponges.

Building materialsAnalyse the building materials you

make use of and try where possible to

use recyclable or recycled materials

and non-toxic paint.

Choose eco-friendly materials

as first choice for any building

renovations or maintenance work.

In terms of pesticides, select those

that can manage and prevent pests

in as non-toxic a method as possible.

Speak to your pest controller to

discuss options which are less toxic

and have fewer odours.

We could go into huge detail and

more specifics when it comes to

greening up your space, however I

feel that if we all start with small steps

such as listed above, and actively look

for methods to reduce, re-use and

recycle, it will make a huge difference

in reducing the carbon footprint. PB

•Bottledwaterusesinexcessof1.5milliontonsof plastic per year, which requires 47 million gallons of oil per year to produce, while only 20% of plastic bottles get recycled. 

•Ratherchoosetomakewateravailableforusewith a recycled paper cup or – even better – a re-usable container, such as glass or ceramic cups. Ask your clients to keep their cup with them for the duration of their visit to reduce the amount of water used to wash them after each use.

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.

B ot t l e d wat e rNo more bottled water, of any kind, shape or form!

This diagram of waste hierachy

refers to the "3Rs" reduce, reuse

and recycle.

Source: wikipedia.org/wiki/water_management

Page 33: Pro beauty July 2015

31

Professional Beauty July 2015

spa focus

For further information, contact:Penny: 082 312 0564

[email protected]

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• Our exclusive programme is designed andcreated by Xtreme Lashes, USA, to promote full comprehension of the eyelash extension concepts and techniques.

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the global leader in eyelash extensions

Spas and their related services constitute an

incredibly large industry – generating $60 billion

in global revenue ($13 billion in the US alone) and

anchoring a $250 billion global spa tourism market,

according to the International Spa Association – and as

such, occupy an equally large environmental footprint.

The industry typically utilises precious resources for a

wide array of water-based treatments, laundry services,

and disposable items used in spa services. Additionally,

personal care and cleaning products collectively contain

70,000 industrial chemicals, many of which have

unknown effects or can be outright harmful to people

and the natural environment.

The Green Spa Network views this as an opportunity

to make lasting environmental impact on a large scale,

starting with sustainability assessments and easily-

adoptable practices for individual facilities.

“By adopting green practices, we not only make

spas themselves more sustainable, but support the

financial sustainability of green businesses and raise

environmental awareness among spa clientele,” says The

Green Spa Network.

For more information about the organisation visit www.greenspanetwork.co.za

How green is your spa?This is the question posed by The Green spa Network, an international organisation which believes that spas play a meaningful role in supporting the health and well-being of people and their communities.

Page 34: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

32 spa focus

The decision by Southern

Sun The Cullinan to choose

the Mangwanani spa

brand was a no-brainer,

according to the hotel’s

general manager, Garry Reed.

“Tsogo Sun and Mangwanani

Boutique Spa have a well-established

relationship in their Beverly Hills,

Southern Sun Elangeni & Maharani

and The Palazzo Hotel properties. So

it was a natural decision to open a

Mangwanani Boutique Spa at Southern

Sun The Cullinan, Tsogo Sun’s flagship

hotel in Cape Town,” notes Reed.

Commenting on the spa’s décor,

Kerry Gilowey, business development

and marketing manager at

Mangwanani African Spa, says: “Our

boutique spa design has an African

Moroccan touch, with a clean, crisp,

fresh feel along with the aromas of

our famous Mbali burning oils. There

are no other words to describe this

boutique spa other than to say it is

simply stunning, as confirmed by our

many clients who visit the spa on a

regular basis.”

“Upstairs we have six boutique

massage rooms, which could be used

by couples or friends together. These

rooms have been designed with

beautiful fibre-optic lighting that will

transcend the guest into a Moroccan

African night sky.”

Cullinan Hotel opens Mangwanani spa

Glass bathsThe boutique spa boasts two glass spa

baths, which were custom-made and

designed to seat four people.

“These baths are for our signature

Korean Body Scrub Treatment,”

explains Gilowey. “While lounging

in these exotic baths, sipping our

signature flavoured water, and being

gently massaged by the bubbling

jets, the guest will already feel utterly

relaxed before the treatment even

begins.”

She describes the Korean Body

Scrub as ‘a must-do treatment’.

“This treatment was introduced

On 26 March this year, southern sun The Cullinan in Cape Town opened a Mangwanani Boutique spa, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Page 35: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

33 spa focus

by Mangwanani CEO Erin Limbert,

who is famous in South Africa for

giving thousands of women from

underprivileged backgrounds a great

opportunity and promise for the future.

On a trip to New York last year, Erin

discovered the wonderful Korean Body

Scrub treatment. She experienced it

first-hand and was absolutely amazed

at how beautiful and soft her skin felt

after the treatment.

“In Korea itself, the locals do body

scrubs regularly to shed themselves

of dead skin cells as they believe it

revitalises the body and makes them

feel completely invigorated. Just as

this amazing experience leaves you

with a completely new layer of skin, in

life too, you need to shed the layers

of doubt, insecurity and fear. These

layers are just as awful as the old

dead grey skin that only this signature

treatment offers to remove from your

body,” comments Gilowey.

African flavourThe Boutique Spa also offers three

signature packages, which include

all of Mangwanani’s African healing

therapies. These packages are: The

African Sunrise Pamper, The African

Tranquillity and The African Indulge,

which includes the Korean Scrub.

Also on the treatment menu are a

traditional full-body hot stone therapy

massage, a foot massage, a hand

massage and a North African head,

neck and shoulder massage.

Gilowey points out that Mangwanani

African Spa has developed its own

signature range of products, which

are uniquely South African and cater

for relaxation and spa therapies. All

products are made with natural and

naturally derived ingredients and

fragranced with essential oil in line

with the brand’s awareness of its

carbon footprint.

“We have many talented and

professional therapists and nail

technicians who offer our signature

relaxation therapies and, newly

introduced to our Boutique Spa menu,

Gelish Nails, which offer a wide range

of o n-trend nail colours and nail art to

choose from.

“The spa also offers popular

poolside treatments and in-room

treatments for guests of the hotel,

who request this on a regular basis.

We always welcome walk-in clients

who are not hotel guests but who

want to indulge in the Mangwanani

Spa Boutique experience.

“Recently, as per popular demand

from the many corporates who gather

at the CTICC (Cape Town International

Convention Centre) from around the

country and abroad, we offer tailor-

made treatments to fit into their very

busy schedules,” concludes Gilowey.

The Boutique Spa is open seven

days a week, from 9am to 11pm. PB

SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Erin Limbert

Size: 123m2

hydro facilities: Glass spa bathswith bubbling jets

Number of rooms: 6 boutique massage rooms, 8 massage areas, 4 manicure and pedicure stations

Number of therapists: 20

Spa manager: Tasneem Bardienz

Page 36: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

34 neck and bust

The differences between neck

and facial tissue may be small,

but they are sufficient enough to

warrant specialised treatments

and creams, which should also be

used on the décolleté and breast area.

One of the biggest manifestations of ageing on

these areas is collagen loss, especially after the

age of 40. Neck & More from QMS Medicosmetics,

formulated by Dr. med. Erich Schulte, is described

as ‘an anti-ageing sensation for the sensitive

skin of the neck and breast areas’. Intensive

moisturising complexes effectively tighten the

skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Valuable oils extracted from exotic plants

strengthen the connective tissue and give the skin

a soft and smooth appearance. The ‘lifting’ extract

It’s often said that a women’s neck gives away her age much more quickly than her face.

And yet the neck is one of the most neglected areas of the body, writes

Joanna Sterkowicz.

South of the chin

of the West African Kigelia fruit is scientifically

proven to restore the firmness and contouring of

the breast.

The benefits of Neck & More are: it firms

and moisturises the skin, promotes circulation,

stimulates metabolism and regenerates skin.

Plumping For women in search of an intensive ‘lifting-

effect’ treatment to help rejuvenate and plump

up their bust and smooth their décolleté, Thalgo R

Page 37: Pro beauty July 2015

neck and bust

35

Page 38: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

36 neck and bust

recommends Défi Fermeté. This fine,

slightly powdery emulsion reinforces

the support tissues of the bust and

helps to reshape the breasts.

In addition it has an intensely

hydrating action and smoothes the

décolleté.

Firm upMio Boob Tube + Multi-Action Bust

Firmer keeps the delicate skin of the

bust and décolleté firmer, toned,

bright and crinkle-free, as well as

providing ‘super sag protection’.

“Boob Tube is rich in CoQ10 to

maintain the strength and structure

of collagen fibres,” says Janine Janse

van Rensburg of Poise Brands. “It is

super-nourishing, and so packed full

of fantastic natural actives that your

skin just responds beautifully to the

attention.

“Lines and crinkles are kept at bay

so thin skin stays smooth. The bust

and décolleté area will look visibly

healthier and glowing within days,

while Boob Tube’s skin brightening

actives take years off sun-damaged

skin.”

Potent powerFiberblast C from DMK is positioned

as the most potent and Bio-available

Vitamin C Liquid encapsulated in a

natural occlusive mineral material.

It uses 20% pure Ascorbic Acid in a

liquid form that’s easily absorbed with

immediate antioxidant and collagen

building benefits.

Also from DMK, Aminodine Spritz is

referred to as ‘the golden water’. This

spritz is effective in slowing down the

cross-linked wrinkling process, firming

and toning the skin.

Growth factor DermaFix SND Corrector acts as a

growth factor stimulator, signalling

fibroblasts to increase collagen and

elastin production due to improved

skin cell-to-cell communication.

“Utilising a complex of powerful

actives, regular use of SND Corrector

provides noticeable improvement in

skin elasticity over a short period of

time, while restoring homeostasis to

damaged skin cells,” says DermaFix

MD Ursula Hunt.

Massage oilsLilian Terry International has a range

of facial massage oils, specifically

for more mature and dry skin

types. These complexes combine

homeopathic remedies with pure

essential and carrier oils to provide

a natural, effective treatment for

issues such as stretched, scarred

and wrinkled skin – exactly the type

of problems found in the neck, bust

and décolleté areas as one ages.

The Elastoderma massage

oil repairs damage, specifically

stretched and scarred skin, improves

elastin and collagen production and

assists with sagging skin and deep

wrinkles.

Oxiderma works well for

finer wrinkles and is perfect

for dehydrated, sensitive skin.

This complex increases oxygen

penetration, normalises hormonal

activity and stimulates epithelial

regeneration – which also makes it

very suitable for menopausal skin. R

Page 39: Pro beauty July 2015

Every product is a personal fitness trainer for your skin. Strong is the new skinny!

high intensity bodycare

POISEEXCEPTIONAL BRANDS

Please contact us for more information:011 033 0500 • [email protected]

www.poisebrands.co.za • www.facebook.com/PoiseSouthAfrica

Safe and effective homecare and spa treatments helping you

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the pregnancy experts

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Your appointment with plastic surgeryis postponed!

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- brands that are unique, of exceptional quality and focused on increasing revenue within your business.

Juliette Armand, Mio & Mama Mio Skincare

Page 40: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

38 neck and bust

Stretchmarks is a very gentle,

hydrating massage oil which is not

only wonderful for the prevention and

treatment of stretch marks but also

for improving skin tone in general –

and is safe to use on the breast area.

“By addressing the root causes

of sagging, wrinkled skin with our

unique combination of homeopathic

remedies and hydrating carrier and

essential oils, Lilian Terry International

offers a natural alternative to

these age-old problems,” says the

company’s Carli Argirova.

daily exposureThe experts at Environ point out

that the décolleté area is exposed to

sun on a daily basis, especially when

driving in the car, and advise that the

client’s daily skincare regime should

always include her décolleté. They

recommend using all the normal

facial regime products together with

additional anti-ageing, firming and

prevention.

Environ’s Colostrum Gel stimulates

growth factors in the skin and can be

used in combination with Dermalac

and Vitamin A, C, E oil daily. First

apply the Colostrum Gel, followed

by Dermalac and Body Oil. A sun

protection product like RAD should

always be used on the décolleté to

provide excellent protection.

Clinical trialsLeading British spa

brand Elemis has

extended its acclaimed

anti-ageing range with

Pro-Collagen Lifting

Treatment Neck and

Bust.

Noella Gabriel,

Elemis director of

product and treatment

development says:

“Independent expert

clinical trials verified

that, after 28 days of

applying Pro-Collagen

Lifting Treatment for

Neck and Bust, skin

crêpiness was reduced

by up to 33%, and the

skin is proven to be 17% firmer, with

a 14% increase in elasticity.”

Pro-Collagen Lifting Treatment

Neck and Bust transports highly

concentrated actives to target the

underlying causes of the visible

signs of ageing by enhancing inter-

cellular communication. This results

in cellular repair, cell metabolism

and cell communication.

Gabriel continues: “Neck and

Bust cream draws its powerful

anti-ageing properties from marine

algae selected specifically for their

unicellular form and their ability

to mimic the skin’s function. The

key marine ingredients are Padina

Pavonica, intelligent algae that not

only helps the skin’s metabolism,

but also helps strengthen the

protective calcium layer of the

epidermis. Seabuckthorn Seed Oil

enhances microcirculation and the

regeneration of the epidermis, while

the aromatic waters of Samphire

(Sea Fennel) help to soothe the skin

and combat redness.

“These marine extracts are

blended with Royal Jelly, rich in

proteins, minerals and vitamins,

Cistacea (rock rose), which is known

for its ability to decongest the

skin and stim ulate production of

endorphin hormones, and Propolis,

a mineral-rich resinous substance

collected by honey bees.”

‘Turkey neck’The ‘turkey neck’ effect, with its

reddened, speckled and fragile

skin can be gradually improved

by twice daily application of Scar

Repair Forté Serum, according to

Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA, as it re-

elastisises and thickens the skin so

that the blotchiness is less visible.

“Scar Repair Forté Serum

contains a very large amount of anti-

inflammatories to reduce erythema,

but more importantly, thickening

the skin will make imperfections

much less visible,” says Faucitt.

She notes that breast sagging is

not restricted to older women so

care from an early age is essential.

“With continued in-salon RegimA

Zone Power Peel treatments and

home care, the improvement will

become greater with the removal

of ageing solar keratoses on the

décolleté and renewed, youthful

elasticity of the breasts. Initially

the neck may peel, but home care

will quickly relieve this and one will

gradually be able to remove ageing

sun spots, pigmentation and tighten

the skin.”

RégimA Breast & Décolléte

Firming Complex is a gel type

formulation which dries onto the

skin, nourishing, yet tightening. It

helps keep breasts firm following

breast augmentation, reduction or

lift. R

Page 41: Pro beauty July 2015

business tips

39

Page 42: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

40 neck and bust

elastin, and improves

firmness, tone and

moisturisation of the

neck and décolleté.

defencePhytomer’s Décolleté

Parfait is a fresh, soft-

gel cream that helps

defend the neck and

décolleté area from

premature ageing.

It provides the skin

with renovating

and brightening

ingredients, which reduce the

appearance of ‘creased skin’ and

helps fade liver spots. Visibly

smoother and more beautiful, the

skin glows with renewed youth.

Cupping therapyRegular cupping massage, using

the Bellabaci system, also allows for

proper lymphatic drainage, reducing

swelling and fluid retention. The

action of the cups stimulates deep

blood circulation underneath the

skin of your breast. It stimulates

nerves inside your breasts that are

essential receptors of oestrogen.

This opens up blood flow throughout

your entire breast, prompting

natural growth. Massaging your

breasts is not only for stimulation

but also for the overall health of the

breast tissue.

The Bellabaci Massage

System must be avoided

for clients who have breast

cancer or have had breast

cancer in the past. PB

‘Facelift’Superfacelift from Skin Doctors is

a cosmeceutical strength formula

which tightens and firms sagging

skin and helps to smooth wrinkles. It

contains Micro encapsulated Retinol

which maintains the freshness of

the active ingredients and ensures

maximum effectiveness. In addition, it

reduces the potential for any adverse

reactions to Vitamin A that some

consumers might experience.

The product also contains the

breakthrough discovery ProDE Jine,

clinically proven to help protect the

Dermo-Epidermal Junction, helping

to make skin look dramatically

younger with long term results.

By supporting the health of the

skin’s structure the product improves

the cell renewal process, stimulates

the synthesis of collagen and

“The only women who do not

get creasing of the décolleté area

unless daily prevention care is

taken, are those with tiny breasts.

Unfortunately creasing, especially

experienced in the mornings, is

inevitable with sun damage and

age so where possible one must

re-elasticise, maintain hydration

and treat the décolleté. Our Breast

& Décolléte Firming Complex also

helps reduce inflammation and pre-

menstrual breast tenderness.”

It’s a bust!Developed by Ericson Laboratoire,

Morpho Bust is original in the sense

that it has a volumising effect due

to its high performance formulae.

It is now possible to stimulate

the fabrication of fat in situ (the

main component of the mammary

gland) by combining three action

mechanisms to redensify the

adipose tissue.

Says Ericson Laboratoire’s

Tatyana Shuvalova: “Morpho Bust is

a complete revitalising treatment of

the décolleté and bust, with targeted

actions on the size of the breasts as

well as on stretch marks and micro-

capillaries for better support of the

bust.

“The new active ingredient,

Volufiline, draws its properties

from Anemarrhena, an herbaceous

plant that grows wild in Japan and

the northern part of China. It is a

phytosterol without oestrogen and

progestin activity or glucocorticoid

and testosterone activity.

“Volufiline stimulates the

incorporation of lipids by activating

the glucose synthesis route, thus

promoting the formation of lipid

vesicles via adipophilin – a protein

that stimulates the genes regulating

adipogenesis – and reinforcing the

fatty installation.”

Page 43: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

alphabet creams

41

Thalgo’s BB Cream Perfect Glow

restores radiance to the skin,

with a unique combination of

vitapulp, an unprecedented active

ingredient that seems to visibly

breathe new substance into the skin,

as well as micro-prisms.

The cream’s skin-embracing

texture with coated pigments softens

imperfections and irregularities,

moisturises the skin and provides

effective protection against UV for a

perfect velvety finish.

Colour dispersionJuliette Armand’s CC Colour Control

Cream combines seven different

colour dispersions in a completely

natural way, offering cover that

adapts to each client’s skin tone.

Says Janine Janse van Rensburg

of Poise Brands: “Juliette Armand’s

CC Cream contains active ingredients

such as Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera,

Skincare gets alphabetical

Vitamin PP and Matrixyl 3000 to

repair skin tone.

“Hyaluronic acid provides the skin

with the necessary water reserves

and protects it from transdermal

water loss, while Vitamin PP increases

ceramides and fatty acids, limits water

loss and stimulates microcirculation.

Aloe Vera moisturises and contributes

to the reduction of skin irritation

and inflammations of the sensitive

skin type. Absorbent and reflective

sun filters SPF 10 are used to offer

the skin everyday protection from

UVA-UVB rays, while Matrixyl 3000

tetrapeptide smooths wrinkles, fine

lines and rough texture. Vitamin

PP enhances elasticity, combats

blemishes and offers healthy tone

and texture of skin.

Multi-actionPhytomer’s CC Crème Skin

Perfecting Cream SPF20 is described

as ‘a super intelligent product’ that

combines make-up and skincare. It

naturally enhances the skin through its

simultaneous multi-action effects of

moisturising, pore-refining, radiance

enhancing, unifying and protecting

functions.

“CC Crème is the perfect formula

for creating flawless skin,” says Ayesha

Rajah of A&I Importers. “It goes a lot

further than make-up by acting at

the heart of the skin to moisture and

beautify it.”

Rajah notes that the cream contains

complexion enhancing pigments and

‘soft focus’ powders that melt on the

skin, instantly bringing it brightness

and radiance.

“CC Crème’s advanced ingredients

create an ultra-natural finish without

the look or feel of a heavy make-up

application,” she concludes.

12 ingredientsCoverderm’s CC Cream for Face

contains 12 super-powered active

ingredients that even and brighten skin

tone, while nourishing, moisturising

and soothing the skin. It protects

against UVA & UVB rays and treats

wrinkles, blemishes and irritation and

controls sebum, tightens pores and

treats facial redness.

“Oil free,

lightweight and

suitable for all skin

types, CC Cream

for Face is available

in two natural shades.

Clinically tested to be long

lasting, hypoallergenic and

waterproof, it is ideal for humid

and hot climates,” say the experts

at Coverderm. PB

Alphabet creams first hit the market in 2012 with the launch of BB (Beauty Balm) Creams that offered a combination of benefits in addition to coverage. These were followed by CC (Colour Correction) Creams, DD (Daily Defence) Creams and EE (Even Effect) Creams.

Page 44: Pro beauty July 2015
Page 45: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

43 treatment review – rosacea

Ever since I was a little girl,

the tip of my nose has

always looked ‘rosy’. This

situation has worsened

with age (due to the

thinning of the epidermis) and is

particularly exacerbated by the cold

winter air.

My rosacea treatment was

performed by DermaFix educator

Rozlyn Williams at the company’s

premises in Northlands Deco Park,

Johannesburg.

“Today’s treatment is focused

on skin sensitivity,” said Williams.

“DermaFix products have a high anti-

inflammatory action which helps to

calm the skin and diminish redness.

Because rosacea and dehydration

often go hand in hand, I’m going to use

products that will repair the barrier of

your skin by preventing water loss.

“The focal point of this facial is the

Organic Colloidal Oat Masque, an ultra-

soothing, anti-inflammatory barrier

repair treatment. It reduces redness

and preserves the integrity of the

stratum corneum, while attracting and

holding moisture on the surface of the

skin. Included in the key ingredients is

Beta Glucan, which helps to stimulate

the skin’s immune response to make it

more resistant.”

Williams commenced the treatment

with a double cleanse, first with the

Gentle Cleansing Gel, a non-stripping

foaming gel that removes make-up.

Next came the Hydra Silk Cleanser to

restore hydration to my skin. Instead

of toner, Williams used the Vitamin C

Serum to give my skin a boost.

The Organic Colloidal Oat

Masque was applied on top of strips

of medical gauze that had been

saturated with ACC Copper.

Williams continued: “ACC Copper

is an advanced, anti-inflammatory

formula that delivers a concentrate

of Copper GHK-Cu3 and anti-

oxidants to improve the signs of

environmentally induced stressed

skin.”

The masque, which is very thick in

texture, covered my entire face and

was left on for 20 minutes under a

steamer to keep it moist.

With a single movement, Williams

was able to remove the masque,

thanks to the medical gauze. She then

applied a cocktail of ACC Copper

and Bio-Hydrating Cream to my face.

The latter is rich in hyaluronic acid to

combat dehydration.

“Our Bio-Hydrating Cream is

a highly effective, lightweight

emollient, moisturising and

rejuvenating cream. It’s a great all-

round moisturiser that leaves the

skin soft and glowing. Ingredients

include Marine Collagen, Elastin

and Seaweed extracts,” commented

Williams.

To end off, Williams performed

a light pressure point massage

using Argan Oil, followed by the

application of Bio-Hydrating Cream

and the DermaShield SPF45.

For homecare Williams

recommended the ACC Copper,

Bio-Hydrating Cream and Argan Oil,

noting that I should see a marked

improvement in the rosacea after a

week.

The following morning, after just

one night of using the products,

I could actually see that my nose

looked slightly less red. PB

Tired of looking like Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer when not wearing make-up, Joanna Sterkowicz opts to try the DermaFix rosacea treatment.

no more ‘red nose’ days

Contact: DermaFix 0861 28 23 23

Page 46: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

44 radiofrequency

RF technology is based on

the concept of delivering

heat to tissue in a non-

specific manner. Delivery

of heat is based on the

properties of the tissue itself and is

not dependent on chromophores. RF

devices produce an electrical current,

typically with a frequency in the

megahertz (MHz) range. This current

can be applied to the skin in various

manners, such as through monopolar

devices or bipolar devices.*

Commenting on the use of RF in

aesthetic treatments, Dr Catherine

Davies of Hair Restoration SA points

out that the area of concern must be

treated efficiently using high energy

levels without compromising

patient comfort.

“RF heating occurs irrespective

of chromophore or skin type and

is not dependent upon selective

photothermolysis. It has different

biological and clinical effects,

depending upon the depth

of tissue targeted. The high

frequency energy causes targeted

deep thermal heating in the

adipose tissue. Metabolic activity

is initiated as cells in the adipose

tissue undergo apoptosis. RF can

be used for labial rejuvenation

and to treat neck sagginess and

bra fat/back rolls, among other

indications,” says Davies.

First introduced to the aesthetics sector in 2001, radiofrequency (RF) devices are now widely used by therapists, somatologists and doctors for non-invasive facial rejuvenation and body contouring, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

“Monopolar RF provides uniform volumetric heating to reach depths up to 2.5cm. It targets specific depths and is flexible, safe and comfortable. Using dynamic monopolar RF, the handpiece moves continuously and specific areas of laxity can be targeted in a relatively short amount of time. With bipolar, the RF moves between two poles built into the hand piece, with a specific distance between the electrodes.”Dr Catherine Davies

The heat is on

Page 47: Pro beauty July 2015

45

Professional Beauty July 2015

radiofrequency

R

double up Radiant Healthcare offers two RF devices

for the local market – the Syneron eTwo

Fractional RF device and the Cocoon Titania RF.

Says Radiant Healthcare clinical trainer

Danelle Landman: “The eTwo combines the

unique Sublime and Sublative applications

for advanced non-invasive facial and neck

rejuvenation. Safe for all skin types, the eTwo

system not only enables your clinic to do

fractionated skin rejuvenation, but also to offer

non-invasive wrinkle treatments.

“The Sublime application uses the elos

Technology combination of safe and effective

levels of infrared light and bi-polar radio

frequency energies to remodel the deep

dermal layer of the skin by stimulating new

collagen growth for immediate and long-term

improvement of wrinkles and facial contours.

The Sublative fractionated bi-polar radio

frequency technology places the heat energy

effectively into the upper dermis where it can

produce a significant increase in both collagen

and elastin, with minimal epidermal disruption,

leading to a smoother, rejuvenated appearance

of the skin. There is an intelligent feedback

system on the eTwo that ensures consistency

of treatment.”

The heat is on

Page 48: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

46 radiofrequency

Landman notes that the device

requires only minimal downtime,

which means that patients can

resume normal activities almost

immediately due to the fast

treatment time.

“The device allows clinics to offer

cost-effective treatments with what

we believe is the lowest overall

cost of ownership, compared to

competitive products. It treats

wrinkles, scars, large pores, stretch

marks, laxity, skin tone etc.”

Cocoon Titania, from Cocoon

Medical in Spain, uses high-powered

RF for advanced facial rejuvenation

and body shaping treatments.

“It has been scientifically proven

of Medilase: “The concept of non-

ablative fractional photothermolysis

was introduced to the market to

address the need for effective,

yet low-risk, skin rejuvenation

techniques. Fractional modalities

treat only a fraction of the skin,

leaving up to a maximum of 95% of

the skin untouched. The undamaged

surrounding tissue allows for a

reservoir of viable tissue, permitting

rapid epidermal repair.

“Clinical outcomes of the first

generation of fractional RF were

sufficient; the main limitation of these

systems however, is the inability to

create sufficient coagulation/necrosis

without ablating the epidermal layer,

or having the ability to ablate the

epidermis without coagulation/

necrosis on the upper dermis.”

Viora’s SVC (Switching Vacuum

Cooling) technology, available in

It is the new Coccon Medical device, which brings together innovation and technology to o�erthe first intelligent Radiofrequency device in the market.

The professionals of the medicine can address their patient’s concerns, both in facial, wrinkles,skin flaccidity treatments and body, cellulite and contouring treatments.

Why is TITANIA Intelligent?Titania is an intelligent radiofrequency device with hand-pieces that allow us to make treatments more e�ciently and safely. TITANIA hand-pieces incorporate a temperature sensor, which alerts us when temperature reaches 42ºC outside and 40ºC on the inside. This measurement ensures us to reach the optimum temperature in the whole area treated in order to release heat shock proteins. Moreover, this sensor also permitsto heat the tissue without any burn risk, thusensuring the safety of the treatment.

FACIAL PULSE TREATMENTAccuracy and control in facial treatmentsIt is the most accurate radiofrequency treatment in the market, not only allows working ina very defined area thanks to its small diameter of application (such as wrinkles and expressionlines) but it also allows us to control radiofrequency intensity that it is being transmitted to the body and the time that is being applied.

.

MEDICAL

Facial treatments:> Skin resurfacing.> Expression lines.> Facial li�ting.> Improves skin clarity.> Double chin reduction.

INTELLIGENTRADIOFREQUENCYPLATFORM

In addition, the hand-pieces incorporate an internal memory, allowing the device to recognize which hand-piece is placed. It also gives the opportunity to make the right treatment for each specific hand-piece.

How does TITANIA work?Titania generates an electromagnetic current that works on the body causing a localized hyperemia. This increase in temperature insidethe tissues activates the release of heat shock proteins, which protect the structure of collagen, avoiding denaturation and recovering the loss of collagen due to age.

In addition to this process, there is a circulatory raise in the area treated providing a greater supply of oxygen, nutrients to the tissues and a better elimination of toxins. The main result is skin resurfacing, cellular strengthening and greater firmness in tissue.

Radiofrequency also generates a metabolism acceleration increasing energy consumption and therefore, leading to accumulated fatintake. In this way we get a decrease in fat and cellulite improvement.

This state-of-the-art technology let us make smoother and generalized treatments as well as more aggressive treatments on specific wrinkles, damaging the tissue in order to create the cutaneous regeneration and the wrinkle blurring.

DINAMIC CORP RF Cellulite reduction –Firming – ALL IN 1*It is the most complete treatment since it combines both multipolar radiofrequency and deep mechanical mobilization. This helps to increase the e�ects of RF in both fat tissue reduction and in the improvement of cellulite and tighteningwith a single hand-piece.

Body treatments:> Minimizes the cellulite appearance.> Fat and contour reduction. > Liquid retention reduction.> Tightening.

Specific treatment for CELLULITETitania has two specific hand-pieces for cellulite, allowing us to treat bigger areas(6 poles) or smaller areas (4 poles). These handles are intended, primarily, to improve cellulite, they heat the tissue of big areas very fast, and also its poles mobilize the tissue producing a draining e�ect. Specially suitable for painful and inflamed cellulite.

Specific TIGHTENING treatmentTITANIA also includes a special hand-piece for treatments aimed at tissue tightening. Its more global warmth and its action on the dermis let us restore and stimulate collagen and fibroblasts to rea�rm the tissue. Especially indicated for breast, buttocks, arms and abdomen tightening. It also improves the appearance of stretch marks and scars.

*Optional accessory.

Perfect treatment for all ages and all skin typesDi�erent Cocoon Medical external doctors have conducted rigorous clinical studies with proving samples ofTITANIA e�ciency in terms of benefits and tangible results. Titania provides an e�ective treatment for wrinkles,cellulite, skin tightening and body contouring, among other treatments, with minimal risk of side e�ects and no downtime or expensive consumables.

Titania is a smooth alternative to surgery, it has been clinically tested on all skin types to regenerate collagen, accelerate metabolism, fat reduction and body contouring. For optimum results it is necessary to have 6 to 8 sessions, each 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the patient and the size of the area being treated.

BEFORE AFTER2 sessions

BEFORE AFTER 2 sessions

It is the new Coccon Medical device, which brings together innovation and technology to o�erthe first intelligent Radiofrequency device in the market.

The professionals of the medicine can address their patient’s concerns, both in facial, wrinkles,skin flaccidity treatments and body, cellulite and contouring treatments.

Why is TITANIA Intelligent?Titania is an intelligent radiofrequency device with hand-pieces that allow us to make treatments more e�ciently and safely. TITANIA hand-pieces incorporate a temperature sensor, which alerts us when temperature reaches 42ºC outside and 40ºC on the inside. This measurement ensures us to reach the optimum temperature in the whole area treated in order to release heat shock proteins. Moreover, this sensor also permitsto heat the tissue without any burn risk, thusensuring the safety of the treatment.

FACIAL PULSE TREATMENTAccuracy and control in facial treatmentsIt is the most accurate radiofrequency treatment in the market, not only allows working ina very defined area thanks to its small diameter of application (such as wrinkles and expressionlines) but it also allows us to control radiofrequency intensity that it is being transmitted to the body and the time that is being applied.

.

MEDICAL

Facial treatments:> Skin resurfacing.> Expression lines.> Facial li�ting.> Improves skin clarity.> Double chin reduction.

INTELLIGENTRADIOFREQUENCYPLATFORM

In addition, the hand-pieces incorporate an internal memory, allowing the device to recognize which hand-piece is placed. It also gives the opportunity to make the right treatment for each specific hand-piece.

How does TITANIA work?Titania generates an electromagnetic current that works on the body causing a localized hyperemia. This increase in temperature insidethe tissues activates the release of heat shock proteins, which protect the structure of collagen, avoiding denaturation and recovering the loss of collagen due to age.

In addition to this process, there is a circulatory raise in the area treated providing a greater supply of oxygen, nutrients to the tissues and a better elimination of toxins. The main result is skin resurfacing, cellular strengthening and greater firmness in tissue.

Radiofrequency also generates a metabolism acceleration increasing energy consumption and therefore, leading to accumulated fatintake. In this way we get a decrease in fat and cellulite improvement.

This state-of-the-art technology let us make smoother and generalized treatments as well as more aggressive treatments on specific wrinkles, damaging the tissue in order to create the cutaneous regeneration and the wrinkle blurring.

DINAMIC CORP RF Cellulite reduction –Firming – ALL IN 1*It is the most complete treatment since it combines both multipolar radiofrequency and deep mechanical mobilization. This helps to increase the e�ects of RF in both fat tissue reduction and in the improvement of cellulite and tighteningwith a single hand-piece.

Body treatments:> Minimizes the cellulite appearance.> Fat and contour reduction. > Liquid retention reduction.> Tightening.

Specific treatment for CELLULITETitania has two specific hand-pieces for cellulite, allowing us to treat bigger areas(6 poles) or smaller areas (4 poles). These handles are intended, primarily, to improve cellulite, they heat the tissue of big areas very fast, and also its poles mobilize the tissue producing a draining e�ect. Specially suitable for painful and inflamed cellulite.

Specific TIGHTENING treatmentTITANIA also includes a special hand-piece for treatments aimed at tissue tightening. Its more global warmth and its action on the dermis let us restore and stimulate collagen and fibroblasts to rea�rm the tissue. Especially indicated for breast, buttocks, arms and abdomen tightening. It also improves the appearance of stretch marks and scars.

*Optional accessory.

Perfect treatment for all ages and all skin typesDi�erent Cocoon Medical external doctors have conducted rigorous clinical studies with proving samples ofTITANIA e�ciency in terms of benefits and tangible results. Titania provides an e�ective treatment for wrinkles,cellulite, skin tightening and body contouring, among other treatments, with minimal risk of side e�ects and no downtime or expensive consumables.

Titania is a smooth alternative to surgery, it has been clinically tested on all skin types to regenerate collagen, accelerate metabolism, fat reduction and body contouring. For optimum results it is necessary to have 6 to 8 sessions, each 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the patient and the size of the area being treated.

BEFORE AFTER2 sessions

BEFORE AFTER 2 sessions

that there is an improvement

of at least 20% from the first

session with the Cocoon

Titania,” states Landman. “The

system has monopolar and

multipolar heads of different

sizes for facial treatments, to

produce an anti-ageing and

youthful appearance by skin

tightening and facial lifting.

“Regarding body

treatments, Cocoon will result

in circumference and cellulite

reduction, body firming and

contouring, as well as the

softening of stretch marks

and scars.”

Key features and benefits

of the system are that it is

portable, with an intuitive

interface and touch screen.

“Recommended for all

skin types, it is a painless

and non-invasive treatment

that promises maximum

results. It can be used pre-

and post-liposuction,”

concludes Landman.

Second generation Medilase offers the second-

generation RF face and

body treatments as a

Fractional RF module on

Viora’s V30 platform.

Says Naomi Olivier

The fractional RF

handpiece (V-FR) of

Viora’s V30 utilises

the patented SVC

technology.

Cocoon Titania, from Cocoon Medical

in Spain, uses high-powered RF for

advanced facial rejuvenation and body

shaping treatments

Page 49: Pro beauty July 2015

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47

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Before After

the V30 Platform, has the ability to

create separate biological responses:

ablation only, coagulation only or

both ablation and coagulation.

“By delivering RF energy via micro

pinpoints beneath the skin’s surface,

focal heat points are created at the

source of symptoms. The healing

process of these controlled thermal

points leads to the regeneration of

new collagen and skin cells,” explains

Olivier.

The fractional RF handpiece

(V-FR) of Viora’s V30 utilises the

patented SVC technology. The

Switching technology is responsible

for the ‘Smart Heat’ pulse, which

increases skin conductivity prior to

the fractional pulse. In addition, the

switching mechanism controls RF

depth penetration reflected via three

programmes: Shallow, Medium and

Deep. The vacuum function ensures

proper coupling of electrodes to the

skin, minimising the risk of epidermal

burns, reduces pain levels (per the

Gate Theory) and causes more equal,

consistent and symmetrical injury

points. The last feature of the SVC

technology is the cooling mechanism.

The cooling technology protects the

superficial skin layers and reduces

pain levels.

Due to its wide spectrum of

parameters and unique features, SVC

technology can promote different

biological responses in three skin

layers (epidermis, papillary and

reticular dermis). For skin resurfacing

procedures, an ablative effect is

required. Similar to laser action, a

response is achieved by using high

energy settings with short pulse

durations. For skin rejuvenation,

a longer pulse duration is used to

deliver a sufficient thermal dose

for coagulation, while for a skin-

tightening effect and lifting, only

volumetric heating is necessary.

This can be achieved by using a low

energy setting and the longest pulse

duration available.

Olivier adds: “SVC also gives the

Safe for all skin

types, the eTwo

system not only

enables your

clinic to do

fractionated skin

rejuvenation, but

also to offer non-

invasive wrinkle

treatments.

R

Page 50: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

48 radiofrequency

cooling temperature

during treatment, the

operator can treat deep

tissue all the way up to the

superficial layer.

“With its ergonomic

design, the applicator allows

the operator to make changes

to the power and cooling right

at the display. The focused thermal

energy disrupts collagen fibres;

collagen triple helix structure is

affected by heat and the unravelling

process is initiated. The natural

healing process prompts fibroblasts

to produce new collagen fibres,”

explains Branislav Sucansky of BTL

South Africa.

Latest news from BTL is that a

new clinical trial has been conducted

on the Vanquish Flex Selective RF

applicator, supervised by Klaus Fritz

MD. The study has been submitted

to Dermatologic Therapy and BTL

therapist unprecedented control in

the treatment, so each procedure

is personalised per patient, per

treatment area, and per specific

symptom and need.

“Results can be visible from the

first treatment, although each person

is different. Typically a three-six

session treatment course is sufficient

to achieve long-lasting results,

depending on the actual application

needed, and each patient. One

maintenance session is generally

recommended every 6 to 12 months,

or as required.”

layeringBTL’s Exilis Elite system represents

one of the world’s most advanced

technologies for body-shaping, skin-

tightening and facial rejuvenation.

“The term ‘layering’ means that

energy is delivered to the various

depths in the tissue. By adjusting the

With its ergonomic design, the Exilis Elite applicator

allows the operator to make changes to the power

and cooling right at the display.

*Source – Joely Kaufman’s article on www.dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com

is awaiting publication.

“Forty subjects participated in the

study and results show an average

reduction in thigh circumference of

2.43cm, after four treatments. These

results are statistically significant.

No treatment associated pain or

discomfort was reported by the

subjects. There were also no reports

of adverse events,” say the experts at

BTL. PB

Page 51: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

49

LashingoutClients with short, sparse eyelashes are likely to

benefit from lash serums that help to promote the growth and length of eyelashes. Usually clear or

nearly colourless, the serum is typically applied to the upper lid lashes, just like mascara.

Revitalising serumA finely calibrated, scientifically driven cosmetic formula developed to address the visual signs of eyelash aging and stress; RevitaLash Advanced features BiopeptinComplex, which combines potent anti-oxidants and fortifying amino acids to create longer, fuller, more beautiful lashes.

082 471 0277

Road to recoveryPriori Lash Recovery Serum helps fight the effects of premature aging, environmental factors and premature eyelash fallout. This breakthrough lash growth product provides fast results that help transform brittle, short, sparse lashes into fuller, voluptuous, thicker-looking lashes and brows in only a matter of weeks.

011 486 4904

QuICk DRAwRapidLash is an innovative eyelash renewal serum that amplifies the appearance of healthy, natural lashes and

brows. Key ingredients include Promaxyl, vital proteins and vitamins that condition the hair follicle, improving the appearance of the length, thickness and volume of both the lashes and the brows.

083 415 6055

Tasty solution

The world’s first and only ECOCERT lash-enhancing serum, LashFood was

developed by a team of cosmetic scientists through a series of clinical tests. It comprises

Phyto-Medic Complex, a powerful, proprietary blend of organic medicinal

herb extracts that supports the growth of stunning lashes.

011 513 4215

product focus – eyelash serums

Page 52: Pro beauty July 2015

All you need to know about styling yourbusiness – meet suppliers, manufacturers &distributors at the Professional Hair Expo 2015

Hair, an extension of you

JOHANNESBURG

2015

Venue: Gallagher Convention Center, Johannesburg

Date: 30th and 31st August 2015

For FREE ENTRY visit

www.professionalhair.co.zaand register today

30TH AND 31ST AUGUST

Page 53: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

51 product focus – peeling aftercare

Crowning glory

With TanOrganic’s certified

OilArganic, hair will be

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time. This multi-purpose

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A key ingredient is Borage

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that combats dry and itchy

scalp, while replenishing

the hair’s natural oils.

011 285 0039

Tress-a-licious news from the

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The La Rashé hair extensions cater to all

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Hair textures include Russian, Chinese, Brazilian,

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products. These are hand crafted in Johannesburg

with the brand’s star indigenous ingredient, Marula

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Page 54: Pro beauty July 2015

Held for the FIRST TIMEin Johannesburg, this educational event is dedicated to Nail Professionals and is supported by the fantastic NAIL FILE magazine.

Book your seat at the most EXCLUSIVE nail workshopVisit www.probeauty.co.za for more info.☞

• Attend and learn the latest techniques

• Get certifi ed as a leading technician

• Excellent skills development

• Tutorials from leading brand names

• Learn how to grow your business

• Nails… more than just ART!

Issue 1Mar/Apr

2015

Budget Boffin How to price nail art

Strain drain

Preventing and treating CTDs

Go fiGureMost popular

nail shapes

in the moodMarsala tones

Issue 2June 2015

New kid onthe blockStart-up salons

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Page 55: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

53 nails

I’m sure you have all heard

the old saying, ‘Competition

is healthy!’ And it really is, no

matter what it is that you do.

Just think about it, every day

of our lives we are competing in

some way or another, whether it’s

in business against another salon

or another nail technician, in our

personal lives or against ourselves.

Why do we compete? To strive

to better ourselves so that we can

be the best at whatever it is that we

take on and so that we can stay at

the top of our game. We also do it

for self-gain and to be rewarded for

our efforts. However, it’s not only

about being the best and reaping

the rewards; everything we do in life,

whether we succeed or fail, is a lesson.

The best advice I can give to

any competing nail tech who wants

to achieve a flawless set of nail

enhancements is to make sure that

they pay attention to perfecting

each and every criteria, as they all go

towards engineering a perfect set of

winning nails. Remember consistency

throughout is absolutely key!

What exactly are the judges looking for?Different types of judging systems are

used for various different competitions.

For instance, Nail Art competitions

use an open judging system, while

Nail Enhancement competitions use a

closed judging system.

Judges are well briefed by the

competition director to know exactly

what to look out for in detail no matter

what category they are judging, and

the competitor must meet these

criteria in every aspect.

Pre-set criteria guide the judges

in scoring points for each and every

detail of the technical work that is

produced, as well as the points that

are allocated by the floor judges

for appearance, hygiene, table set-

up, safety, professionalism and

presentation. The scores are then

added up to reveal the final result.

Let’s hear what some top nail

From both sides of the ‘Nail Curtain’

south Africa’s most prestigious nail competition will take place on sunday 31 August at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg show at Gallagher

Convention Centre. Competition director Sonette van rensburg provides some invaluable tips on how nail techs can excel on the day.

R

Page 56: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

54 nails

experts and professionals in the

industry have to say – people who

have been on both sides of the ‘Nail

Curtain’, as educators, competitors,

winners and competition judges.

Yvette Nel, marketing manager

for LCN, has been in the industry

for many years, as a nail technician,

educator and competition judge.

Says Nel: “Taking part in a

nail competition should be fun! If

you’ve been a nail technician for

several years and feel like you have

done it all, then this competition is for

you. It will motivate you to be even

more excellent at what you do. And it

gauges your level of expertise against

that of other nail professionals.”

Nel’s first bit of advice on how

to be competition-ready is to know

what is expected on the day. “Attend

a competition workshop to inform

yourself on all the finer details, like pre-

judging. This can determine a ranking

between first and second place.

“Find a model with good, healthy

natural nails, as this will take

some pressure off constructing a

beautiful nail. Practise on perfecting

competition style nails from now until

competition day.

“Professionalism is very important,

so have your best tools, equipment

and attire ready for the competition.

You need to have the perfect nail

station set up on your table; do not

clutter it with things that you are not

going to need. Have a learning attitude

and be relaxed. If you have done your

part in terms of preparation, you can

only do your best and learn from the

experience. Persist, push through and

practise your competition nails at least

more than once.”

When judging, Nel always looks at

the overall picture before examining

all the criteria in detail. “Precision

and consistency is key. What I want

to experience from a judging point of

view is for my breath to be taken away

– that is absolutely the best part of

being a judge. Seeing excellent work

gives me goose bumps.

“I dare you – do something different

this year. Enter the competition to be a

part of this awesome experience and

push yourself to greater heights!”

Skills watch Tracey Lee is an international nail

artist and educator from Holland

with 12 years in the industry. She has

participated in many competitions

internationally as a competitor and

judge. Lee is a past winner in the

Photographic and Tip Box categories

of the Professional Beauty Nail

Competition.

“Why compete? There are so

many advantages to competing

besides the obvious one of taking

first place,” explains Lee. “Competing

gives each and every nail tech the

possibility to assess and improve

on their professional nail skills. Each

score sheet highlights the areas for

improvement, and, more importantly,

reminds us of what we are already

doing well.

“Competing can increase your

salon profit. In preparation for, and

during, competitions, nail techs are

really pushed to the limit to create the

‘perfect set’ of nails in a limited period

of time. Again, this is the perfect set,

• Itisessentialforthecompetitortohaveapassionfortheirprofession.

• Thecompetitorshouldhavearesponsibleattitudeandbededicatedenoughtotrainpriortothecompetition.

• Thecompetitorshouldknowandunderstandtheirproductinsideandout,irrespectiveof environmentalchanges.TheyshouldchooseawinningcombinationthatworksforTHEMandsticktoit.Nochangingof productsleadinguptothecompetition.

• Thecompetitorneedstostudyandunderstandtherulesandregulationsof thecompetition.If thereareanyuncertainties,theyneedtocontactthecompetitionorganisersforclarificationpriortothecompetitiontopreventanyunexpectedsurprises.Itisentirelythecompetitor’sresponsibility.

Tracey lee’s success factors

“Precision and consistency is key.

What I want to experience from a

judging point of view is for my breath to be

taken away!”Yvette Nel

Page 57: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

nails

55

Sonette van rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: [email protected] or tel: 076 585 4191

not the salon set. However, working

against a strict timeline increases the

speed of your nail service in the salon,

which, in turn, creates additional

revenue.”

Lee stresses that competing gives

each participant the opportunity

to obtain the recognition not often

received in the salon. “The recognition

may become apparent in the salon

when your clients become aware of

your activities, thereby creating word

of mouth. I love the way that stories

develop with clients: their nail tech

starts off competing and by the time

the story has gone around to three or

more friends, they have become

champions!

“There is also recognition to

be obtained within the industry

itself, from other nail techs, other

competitors and also from other

brands.”

Lee points out that taking part

in competitions can lead to new

contacts. Each competitor is in

the same boat when they enter a

competition arena. This creates

a great atmosphere to network

with other competitors (irrespective

of brand). New friendships are formed,

new contacts are made and there is a

natural growth within the industry.

ModelsSays Lee: “One of the biggest excuses

that I have heard is, ‘I can’t find models

to train on!” Nonsense, models are

everywhere: clients, friends, family,

social networks. Ensure that you have

trained at least three times on your

model leading up to the competition.

Know her nails well.

“Make sure your model is not a

highly strung personality, as she is the

one that should keep you calm when

you feel pressured. She should also be

flexible, both physically and mentally.

Ideally your model should have ‘wow!’

hands – healthy, even skin, straight

fingers and slim, long natural nail beds.

“Always have a back-up model for

any unforeseen circumstances. Create

a model portfolio to ensure you know

which models are available. Your

model should have the same winning

spirit as you do.”

CoachLee believes that finding a suitable

coach is essential to your success.

“The perfect coach is not

necessarily a world champion, rather it

is is someone who understands nails,

competitions and judging and can

identify areas you need to improve

on and show you how to do it. Some

of the best competitors are not

necessarily the best coaches and vice

versa,” comments Lee.

She defines a perfect coach as

someone with coaching experience,

competition experience, a fighting

spirit and who has accomplishments,

either on their own or through their

students.

Lee recommends speaking to

the judges post-competition to

understand what went well and where

the areas for improvement are.

“Take pictures of your work during

training and after competitions to

see your progress and identify any

shortcomings. Be consistent in your

work. Focus on your own timing and

your own nails. Don’t pay attention to

the stage the other competitors are at

during the competition. Stick to your

schedule and always finish your work,”

concludes Lee. PB

ShouldyourequireanyfurtherinformationabouttheProfessionalBeautyNailCompetition,pleasefeelfreetocontactcompetitiondirectorSonettevanRensburgonsonettevr@gmail.comor0765854191

For competition rules and regulations, go to

www.probeauty.co.za

Page 58: Pro beauty July 2015

veNUe: JohaNNesBUrg gaLLagher CoNveNTIoN CeNTre

Medical Aesthetic Convention is part of Professional Beauty

CONVENTION 2015saTUrday 29 aUgUsT aNd sUNday 30 aUgUsT

For more information, visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

earN CPd and eThICs PoINTs

The arT of the ImPossIBLe,has just BeCome PossIBLe

Page 59: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

57 medical aesthetics – fillers

In recent years dermal fillers have become more advanced, with much longer-lasting results, writes karen ellithorne.

The newer fillers on the

market all have their

own unique attributes

that work in specific

ways to rejuvenate

and plump specific areas of the face,

with the most common ingredient

being hyaluronic acid (HA).

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide

that is present in most human tissues,

namely the skin, bone, cartilage,

synovial fluid, eyes, muscles etc. In

the skin it is generally found on the

extracellular matrix and is responsible

for the maintenance of the structure

and plumpness of the skin. It is also

responsible for the transport of water

and nutrients in the skin, and helps

to attract nutrients. Hyaluronic acid

is a skin protector and also a strong

antioxidant. As we age, the levels of

hyaluronic acid slowly decline, leading

to loss of moisture and breakdown of

collagen and elastin fibres.

“The current fillers on the market

consist of a carrier gel combined with

HA that mimics the body’s action of

collecting moisture in between the

cells. This action plumps the skin,

which then appears younger and

healthier, and the appearance of

wrinkles is reduced,” says Dr Gerhard

van Niekerk, an experienced aesthetic

doctor and trainer at Eternal Youth, R

Static ageing

Page 60: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

58 medical aesthetics – fillers

comfortable and to know what to

expect.

Says Shaw: “It is of the utmost

importance that the client understand

the realistic outcomes that can be

achieved with the procedure to avoid

disappointment due to unrealistic

expectations. Disappointed clients are

lost clients. During this consultation

the patient should be asked what area

is of most concern to them. This should

be addressed first and thereafter you

with practices in Somerset West and

Knysna.

Jacky Shaw, practice manager

at Lambton Medical and Aesthetic

Centre, says that dermal fillers have

changed in their composition and

application over the decades.

“Fillers were first introduced in the

late 1980s using a fat transplant method

purely to correct facial defects. Once

results were seen, scientists began

formulating a suitable substance to

reverse the signs of ageing. The first

FDA-approved filler was made of

bovine collagen. Unfortunately, it was

not cost-effective nor easy to inject.

“Finally in 2003 the first FDA-

approved hyaloronic acid dermal

filler was launched into the aesthetic

market. The benefits of this ‘new’

HA technology were its ease of

use, longevity compared to bovine

collagen, and, importantly, the low

incidence of adverse side effects,

such as allergic reactions etc. Most of

today’s fillers also contain Lidocaine

for minimal pain or discomfort,” says

Shaw.

What areas can be treated with dermal fillers?Patients generally suffer from three

main ageing concerns in the facial

area,” continues Shaw. “Firstly, they

get the formation of lines or wrinkles.

Secondly, the good fat that serves as

the scaffolding below the skin starts

to deplete and descend, resulting

in a loss of volume. Lastly, due to

environmental factors and the intrinsic

ageing process, we also lose elasticity

in the skin, forming a crêpe-like texture

called elastosis.

“When a patient presents with lines

or wrinkles on the face it is important

to distinguish between static and

dynamic lines, because the modality

of treatment differs for the two types

of lines. Dynamic lines are formed by

muscle movement below the skin that

forms a wrinkle from that constant

contraction of the muscle ie. smiling,

frowning etc. These dynamic lines are

generally treated by muscle-relaxing

injections as they respond well to this

treatment. If, for instance, a wrinkle

or furrow does not smooth out

after about three or four sessions of

injection, then the doctor may resort

to fillers to smooth the wrinkle further.

“Static lines, however, are formed

by gravity and volume loss, and are

ideally treated by dermal fillers. The

type or viscosity of the filler will then

be matched to fill the depth or extent

of the line,” says Shaw.

What can I expect before, after and during the procedure?Shaw would advise all patients to

have a thorough consultation before

the procedure in order to feel more

The most dramatic results are experienced in the mouth/lip area. Dramatic does not mean the dreaded ‘trout pout’. Clients can walk in with dehydrated, shrunken lips surrounded by barcodes (smoker’s lines) and walk out in 30 minutes with beautiful smooth, soft and rejuvenated lips. Hollywood has given lip fillers such a bad reputation by overfilling or applying incorrect injection techniques in the lip area. I would advise that clients only go to an advanced injector for lips.

If one follows a holistic approach to the face, starting at the forehead and moving down to the décolleté, every area will be able to be treated if you work with a comprehensive range of fillers. The typical areas include forehead and frown lines, crow’s feet, sleep lines on the cheeks, nasolabial, marionette and mental creases. Neck and décolleté wrinkles can be treated on a superficial plane, whereas volume loss on the forehead, temples, cheeks, infra-orbital, nasolabial, marionette, chin and jawline can be treated on medium and deep planes.

Good results can be expected with all filler treatments if the area is correctly treated and if the patient is a good candidate for the treatment.

Cheeks are probably the area of the face that require the greatest insight to treat and surprise the patient if done well.

dr Gerhard van niekerk, aesthetic doctor and trainer at eternal Youth

Jacky Shaw, practice manager at lambton Medical and Aesthetic Centre

dr Anton Potgieter, a Sandton-based plastic and reconstructive surgeon

What are the typical areas treated with fillers and where have you seen the best results?

Page 61: Pro beauty July 2015

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty July 2015

59 medical aesthetics – fillers

can discuss other areas that could do with

improvement. I generally form a priority list in

the form of a treatment plan. All possible risks,

such as tenderness and possible bruising, should

be explained, as well as factors that influence

the longevity of the product, such as smoking,

sun damage, excessive exercise etc. Slow and

steady is a good ethos to follow, as it builds

client confidence and allows for budgeting.

“As the filler reaches its full effect, very often

the list of priorities alters due to changes in the

face following each procedure. It is also a good

idea to wait out the filler maturation time of two

weeks to see the final result, as fillers attract

moisture to the area and expand by a further

+/-20%.”

After the consultation Shaw will book a

45-minute session for the procedure to ensure

a relaxed environment. Before and after photos

are taken for the client’s benefit as results

are more visible when photos are compared.

Shaw finds it very satisfying to plot her client’s

aesthetic journey via photos.

“The filler is injected slowly, and in some areas

the sensation is more of a feeling of pressure

rather than pain. We perform dental blocks when

doing extensive procedures around the mouth,

as this area is very sensitive. Massaging is done

after the injection just to ensure that the filler is

evenly distributed. Our follow-up appointment

is booked for two weeks post-procedure.

“After the procedure the client is asked not to manipulate the

area or have any facial treatments for two weeks until our follow-up.

On the day of the procedure the client should not do any extreme

exercise or heat treatments such as sauna. Clients are advised to

treat their fillers well to achieve longer-lasting results, such as daily

sun care and a good skin care regime. Any pain, inflamation or

bruising normally settles within a day or two, and most of our clients

go straight back to work following their procedure,” concludes Shaw.

With many dodgy imports on the market what should a doctor look out for when purchasing fillers for their practice?Van Niekerk says that all products that are sold commercially

for aesthetic use in South Africa should be registered with the

MCCSA (Medicine Control Council of South Africa). However

he strongly advises sticking with brands that have FDA approval

and CE certification to ensure that the product has a high level

of manufacturing using pure and safe compounds. This way

the product will also have proven clinical studies and safety

profiles. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: [email protected]

Page 62: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

60 product news

In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products and devices.

Sixth senseThe Sixth Intelligence from Six Sensational

Skincare finds the fault in your client’s

skin and fixes it. Ingredients include the

trademarked Venuceane, a super anti-

oxidant which provides protection to the

skin. Macadamia seed oil repairs, softens

and conditions the skin, while preventing

trans-epidermal water loss.

011 312 7840

3D skincareThe HydraFirm Stem Cell 3D Serum

from Dermaquest boasts remarkable

concentrations of Gardenia, Echinacea, Lilac

and Orange Stem Cells to soften fine lines

and wrinkles, while improving skin tone and

restoring elasticity to overworked skin. Four

powerful peptides and Hyaluronic Acid work

to replenish and hydrate.

011 325 5849

Pigment attackMela Peel and Mela Cream comprise

Dermaceutic’s new treatment plan for

hyperpigmentation. This treatment

has been designed to target the

pigmentation in the epidermis

triggered by hormones, free radical

damage generated through sun

exposure and certain medications.

011 706 2518

r

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Redness reliefQMS Medicosmetics new Repair 3

Complex has been specifically

formulated to reduce redness

and relieve irritation in the skin.

Its lightweight cream-serum

texture is ideal for even the most

sensitive skins and easily absorbs

into the skin without leaving an

oily residue. The result is a visibly

relaxed, calmed complexion.

0860 018 022

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Page 63: Pro beauty July 2015

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Page 64: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

62 product news

It’s a gas!The new Carbtek Carboxytherapy Advanced

device from Brazil is CE medically approved.

Carboxytherapy is the unique therapy of

injecting carbon dioxide gas (CO2) under

the skin to aid wound healing and tissue

regeneration. The system is suitable for

treating wrinkles, scars, acne scars, stretch

marks and under eye circles.

011 794 8253

Eye contour repairAnesi’s Radiance

Contour Serum is a

global care eye contour

serum formulated with

vitamin PP, caffeine,

Carnitine and Ruscus

to improve the vascular

system and promote

the degradation of fatty

tissue, minimising dark

circles and bags. It is

enriched with Hyaluronic

Acid to smooth the skin

and fill wrinkles from

within.

011 791 4027 

Sun smartBabor has just launched its new Anti-Aging

Sun Care range, which not only contains

effective UV filters, but also a powerful

anti-aging complex that protects cellular

DNA and contains the potent radical

quenchers, Vitamin E and Vitamin C,

encapsulated in an intelligent spherical

carrier.

011 467 0110

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African mudRenowned for its exceptional skin firming

properties, the Kigelia Africana Extract is

extracted from the fruit of the indigenous African

Sausage Tree. An integral component of

Kalahari’s new professional Phyto Compounding

Treatment, the natural African mud infused

with Kigelia extract will visibly smooth and

firm the skin, leaving it radiant.

011 656 1122

Neck & neckNeoStrata’s Triple Firming Neck

Cream helps rebuild the skin’s

matrix. It is formulated with a

powerful blend of NeoStrata

proprietary and other selectively

sourced ingredients. Clinically

proven NeoGlucosamine helps

increase Hyaluronic Acid and evens

pigment, while NeoCitriate targets

new collagen to lift and firm.

011 545 9300

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Page 65: Pro beauty July 2015

Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Brenda MzilaTel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: [email protected]

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Page 66: Pro beauty July 2015

Professional Beauty July 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

64 saahsp

Cidesco is the World Standard

for Beauty & Spa Therapy. The

Cidesco World Congress has

been taking place on an annual basis

for the past 62 years.

During her opening address at the

2015 congress, founding SAAHSP

member and past president and

honorary member of CIDESCO,

Helene Bramwell, spoke about the

main driving force behind organising

an event of this nature: “My wish

was to create a platform for beauty

professionals from all over the world to

unite and realise our true professional

value, and reap the benefit of the

knowledge being shared and the

techniques being demonstrated. The

more knowledgeable we are, the more

we are able to meet the changing

needs of our clients.”

Renowned doctors and key beauty

experts, both locally and abroad, were

SA hosts global beauty congress

invited to provide their valuable insight

on beauty-related topics, as well as

medical aesthetic disciplines, so as

to expand the beauty professionals’

knowledge within and outside of their

current scope of practice. Exhibitors

got to showcase the latest beauty

technologies, services, techniques and

treatments to beauty industry decision

makers in South Africa, in a forum

dedicated to educational excellence.

Top speakersThe programme was exceptionally well

received. From South Africa some of

the key speakers included: Dr Ridwan

Mia, known for his pioneering work on

three-year-old ‘Pippie’ Kruger, spoke

about harvesting skin; Dr Robert Weiss

focused on hormones and how they

affect the skin; Dr Cathy Davies gave

an in-depth look at radiofrequency

and ultrasound technologies; Dr

Minoka Nadesan demonstrated and

discussed the popular Vampire facial;

and Podiatrist, Dr Dennis Rehbock,

looked at how to treat clients with

diabetes.

On the international front, the

congress was privileged to have

secured the following expert speakers:

US-based Johnette du Randt

discussed the effects and benefits

of massage for cancer patients; Dr

Bovero from Italy focused on touch

therapy and its effects, Professor

Dong Ping from China looked at

Periosteal Micro Plastic Surgery

– a non-invasive bone-shaping

technique; and Anouska Cassano

from the UK covered scalp micro-

pigmentation.

Well-pleasedAnna-Cari Gund, President of

Cidesco, was well-pleased with the

overall success of the event.

“The Cidesco International

Board saw South Africa as the ideal

platform to host the Cidesco World

Congress and Exhibition not only

because it is one of the strongest

members with over 30 accredited

Cidesco schools nationwide, but also

because the future of the beauty

and spa industry in Africa is huge. As

such, there is demand from industry

to make sure the quality is there for

the therapist. This is where Cidesco

comes in, to upgrade the therapist to

become the best in the world,” said

Gund. PB

Cidesco Section South Africa Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

It was with great pride and passion for local beauty industry players that this year’s Cidesco world Congress and exhibition was hosted in south Africa from 20 to 25 May.

Sandy Fuhr and Anna-Cari Gund

Page 67: Pro beauty July 2015
Page 68: Pro beauty July 2015

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