North Face 2012

SEPTEMBER 8, 2012

With the recent precipitation expect very icy conditions!

JULY 26, 2012

The upper portion of the north face (2nd ledge and above) is mostly free of snow;

however, sections of meltwater or verglas can be found on sections of the route.

The shallow black chimney above the Italian Cracks linking the 2nd and 3rd ledges

remains wet and gritty.  The initial corner of the Pendulum Pitch has sections of

wet rock; however the ledge to the pendulum section is dry.  The 4th ledge has

minor sections of wet rock.  The Traverse into the V is dry.

Photo of the North Face from the Crooked Thumb - 7/21/12

JULY 13, 2012

Upper portion of the North Face.

JULY 12, 2012

The North Face route is in summer condition.  Crevasses are opening up on the

glacier.  The bergshrund can be skirted to the left.  There is significant snow on

the 1st and 2nd ledges.  There is a lot of meltwater in some areas like the initial

approach pitches, Guano Chimney, 1st and 2nd Ledges, at the finish of the

Pendulum Pitch, on the ramp between the Pendulum and traverse into the V

pitches, and elsewhere.  Photos below taken on 7/12/12.

Teton Glacier

 Bergshrund and initial pitches/chimney.

 Looking up at the route from Teton Glacier.

 Upper Glacier

 Guano Chimney

1st Ledge

Climbing the last slabs up to the 2nd Ledge.

JUNE 30, 2012

The 1st and 2nd Ledges still hold considerable snow, and the guano chimney area

appears wet.  The bergshrund crossing looks good right now, but this may change

rapidly as things melt out.  Much of the rock higher on the route is dry.  Photos

from 6/30:

JUNE 22, 2012

Aerial photo taken of the upper North Face, Second Ledge and Upper North Ridge

JUNE 14, 2012

Snow, verglas, and running water on the North Face

Photo taken 6/14/12

Photo taken 6/14/12