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WEEK 2: Master Basic Dressing Illusions (Part 1) You should now have started becoming familiar with the silhouettes, lengths and other style

elements that work for your proportions. And started assessing items currently in your

wardrobe.

This week you’re going to continue assessing individual clothing and accessories in your

wardrobe and you’re also going to start putting outfits together.

It’s time to master a few simple principles borrowed from art and use them to combine your

clothes and accessories into flattering outfits.

Hide, Harmonize, Highlight By understanding some simple principles you’ll be able to work out if something suits you

even if you don’t have access to your MPS and can’t remember a particular

recommendation.

Your MPS style recommendations include ALL the style elements that help

you create flattering proportions.

However, by understanding the underlying principles in this lesson you’ll

find it easier to understand your recommendations and create flattering

outfits.

These principles should also help you understand how to disregard an

‘avoid’ style recommendation (if you want to), yet still create a flattering

outfit!

If you remember nothing else remember to review your outfits using these hide, harmonize

and highlight principles.

This week we’ll explore hiding and highlighting. Next week we’ll look at harmonizing.

HIDE: Create balance in your outfits Even if your proportions aren’t the so called ideal proportions you can create flattering lines

in your outfits by understanding how to create the illusion of perfect proportions. It’s all

about balancing your shape to the ‘ideal proportions’ of a moderately tall, average weight,

hourglass, balanced body.

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Balancing Horizontal Shapes to the Ideal Shapes

Read this article to get an overview of how to balance your proportions to the ‘ideal

proportions’.

As you put an outfit together take notice of the elements below to make sure every outfit

you create balances your proportions.

To get a more objective view of an outfit take a full length photo of you in

the complete outfit. A selfie will do, or get a friend or shop assistant to

take it.

(Remember to include shoes, accessories and any outer layers, that is,

consider your whole outfit.)

Design lines Design lines in outfits are found in:

Garment silhouettes

Accessories

Hems – especially when there’s a change of colour eg between a light top and dark

pants, between a skirt hem and your legs

Internal design lines such as seams, zips, pockets, etc

Patterns and textures

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This is how lines are perceived:

Horizontal lines – since these make us feel steady (as in horizons) we notice them first.

However, horizontals add width so it’s also important to balance them with verticals

(unless you’re tall and want to look shorter).

Hems are often horizontal lines (sleeves, tops, jackets, skirts, pants, cuffs).

Colour changes, both between garments and within garments, can also

create horizontal lines. The higher the contrast between colour changes

the more obvious it will be.

Use horizontal lines where you want to add width, on narrow areas

you want to broaden. For example, to add visual width to narrow

shoulders (see blouse picture to right).

Also look out for virtual horizontal lines! Our brain fills in lines so we

see two short horizontal lines as one long one. For example: pocket to

pocket (especially when the pockets are straight, rather than angled); cuff to cuff; sleeve

hem to sleeve hem; two angles of the front opening of a jacket (especially

when the angle of the opening is narrow).

EXAMPLE of the effects of different hemline openings:

Horizontal Lines Adding Width to Shoulders

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Effects of Different Jacket Hemlines

In the jacket hemlines above notice how you see the bottom hems of the first and third

jackets as a horizontal line. With the second and third jackets we’ll most likely see the

hem line opening (especially if there’s a contrasting top underneath), however the top

of the triangle-like opening will also act as a focal point (‘look at me’), so make sure you

want to bring attention to that area of your body.

Recommended reading: Horizontal Fashion article on the MPS blog.

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Question: When is a horizontal stripe not a horizontal stripe?

Answer: When the stripes are thin and close together our brain interprets

them as vertical stripes, so they have a lengthening rather than a

shortening effect!

Vertical lines – are found in: jackets and cardigans left open; longer-line necklaces and

scarves; pants; seams; centre creases in pants and sleeves; button plackets; long pleats;

patterns (such as vertical stripes, but other patterns may create the illusion of stripes

too).

Use them where you want to appear longer and slimmer. For example, to make your

top seem narrower add a longer-line scarf or necklace (but make sure the scarf of

necklace ends at a point you want to bring attention to).

Vertical lines are seen as strong and masculine (reminiscent of tree trunks).

Optional reading: How to Dress Slim and A Striped Affair articles on the MPS blog.

Diagonal lines – can be found in:

V-necks; shirts; wrap tops and dresses; asymmetrical design lines; patterns and

textures (such as Aztec-inspired designs and herringbone).

In structural components such as triangle and inverted triangle silhouettes,

panels, seams, collars, ruching.

In garment detailing or embellishments: pockets, pleats.

In accessories: toes of shoes, scarves, pendants.

They are seen as active and interesting,.

Use them to move the eye around the body and to a focal point. Diagonal lines that are

closer to horizontal add width, those closer to vertical are slimming.

Recommended reading: Line and Design article on the MPS blog.

Curved lines – are found in: structural components such as curved hems, scooped

necklines, and gathering; jewellery such as round pendants and earring hoops; patterns

such as polka dots, spots, paisley, fluid flowing patterns, florals.

Curved lines are seen as feminine, gentle, soft and relaxed.

Use them where you want to add curves (add pounds) and volume.

Recommended reading: The Curved Line article on the MPS blog.

Using colour and fabric type Receiving a personalized colour analysis is beyond the scope of this program. However, I

want to introduce you to two effects of colour in our clothing on:

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1. Apparent size

2. Balancing proportions

Apparent size

A colour’s value (how light or dark it is) and a colour’s intensity (how clear/shiny or

muted/matt) affect the perceived size of the area it is over.

Dark colours, muted colours and matt fabric surfaces all make the area they’re worn

over appear smaller. Dark colours include black. However, black is not the only

Medium colours make the area they’re worn over appear neither larger or smaller. A

fabric with a slight sheen will not overly affect the perceived size of the area it’s

over.

Light colours, clear (bright) colours and shiny fabric surfaces all make the area

they’re worn over appear larger. As do thick, bulky and textured fabrics. Light

colours include white, but other light colours also have the same advancing affect.

Balancing proportions

There are 4 basic outfit strategies that use colour to balance (or unbalance) our

proportions:

Column of colour – this will make you look taller and slimmer, especially when it’s in medium-dark to dark colours, and fabrics with matt finishes

NOTE: the garment colours don’t need to be an exact match, combining

tones of a colour is a very contemporary look. One or more of the

garments may also be patterned in a low contrast pattern that makes it

appear as if it’s part of the column. And combining different textures can

add interest.

Examples of columns of colour

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Flowing colour up the inside of your body – For example, medium coloured skirt and

top and lighter coloured jacket. This will disguise a slightly too large tummy. However, if

the outer layer is lighter than a medium colour-value it will also make a large bust, large

midriff, and broad shoulders look larger.

Examples of flowing colour up the inside of the body (high, medium and lower contrasts)

Flowing colour up the outside of your body – For example, dark pants and jacket and

lighter top. This strategy makes you look slimmer and taller. If you need to hide your

stomach, make sure the lighter colour is not too light.

Examples of flowing colour up the outside of the body (high, medium and lower contrasts)

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Colour blocking:

Wearing lighter colours on your top half and darker colours on your bottom

half will make you appear taller and also appear to balance narrower shoulders

to your hip width

Wearing lighter colours on your bottom half and darker colours on your top

half will make you appear shorter and balance the wider shoulders of an inverted

triangle shape to narrower hips

Examples of colour blocking (medium-dark bottoms + bright top, light bottoms + medium top, vertical colour blocking)

HIGHLIGHT: Use focal points Above we looked at the magic of using design lines and colour to balance proportions and

hide body areas we’d prefer to minize. However, a magician’s key tool is distraction – if we

can see the illusion happening it isn’t so magical!

Draw attention to your best features by creating focal points in those areas.

What is a focal point? A focal point is anything we notice first about you. For example, these things create focal

points:

Light or bright colours

Fabrics with shiny surfaces

Horizontal lines within an outfit – we see these before vertical lines

Colour changes within an outfit – these also create design lines

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Embellishments such as embroidery or studs on clothing

Jewellery especially a necklace with some ‘visual weight’, or noisy jewellery, or shiny

jewellery

A scarf

For example, if you like your hands, wear nail varnish,

statement rings, and/or bracelets.

However, it’s also always a good idea to bring

attention to your face, since it helps people to

take notice of what you’re saying!

Accessorising Adding an accessory or two is a great way to create a focal point and add visual interest. A

well placed accessory can also be used to create a strong vertical, lengthening and slimming

effect.

When I first see many of my clients I find accessorising is something they’re not doing. Most

often this is because they don’t know how to accessorise and so haven’t thought to buy

accessories, or perhaps they have bought them, but forget to wear them.

I really do encourage you to learn how to use accessories (don’t be afraid to experiment)

and remember to use them to add that finishing touch to your outfits.

Optional reading: two articles by my first teacher and the creator of the MPS program:

Accessorizing Part 1 and Accessorizing Part 2.

For a comprehensive accessorising ebook I recommend buying The Finishing Touch by

Imogen Lamport (disclosure: I will make a small commission if you purchase through this

link).

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EXAMPLE of using the above information

This is still a favourite winter outfit even after three or more years!

The colour flow in this outfit is somewhere between colour blocking and a column of colour. Since the contrast between my top and bottom is reasonably low it pretty much forms a column of colour. This illusion is helped with the background of the snake pants having a similar background (soft white/cream) to the top colours

The light colour of the polar neck sweater forms a focal point

The layered necklaces form a focal point (pointing to my stomach/waist, which I wouldn’t normally do, but the strong verticals in this outfit formed by the open vest and the colour flow mean I can get away with it)

The shaggy, bulky texture of the vest (gilet) adds width to my torso, but that’s offset by the strong verticals of the vest opening and the long necklaces and makes me look a little more curvy

The pants are a little short, but the ankle boots sort of disguise that and the column effect also counters the effect

HOMEWORK 1: Assess an outfit

Step 1: Put on an outfit you wear all the time

Step 2: Take a photo Either take a selfie of yourself in your outfit, or ask a friend to take it.

Step 3: Review your outfit Using the information above:

Use your MPS to review the individual components of your outfit. Do they meet your

style recommendations? If not, does how you’ve combined and styled the outfit

counteract the negative aspects?

Identify the types of lines in your outfit (remember to look at the silhouette, and

hem lines, as well and lines within your garments)

What outfit strategy are you using?

Notice the fabric textures

Etc

Step 4: Identify any changes Is the outfit flattering? Does it create the right balance for your horizontal and vertical

shapes and minimise any figure challenges? If not can you identify any ways to change it?

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For example, could you change a hemline? Or tuck in a top? Or add an accessory to create a

focal point? Or add an outer layer such as a vest, jacket or cardigan to create vertical lines,

or to create a flattering colour flow up your body?

Step 5: Post photos Post your photos in our Facebook group along with comments about your assessment. Also

note whether you actually love (or at least like) the outfit.

REPEAT the above for at least one or two more outfits. If you have an outfit you put on, but

never actually walk out of the house wearing make sure you include that in this exercise.

HOMEWORK 2: Create new outfits Now it’s time to get a bit more creative and to practise creating outfits using some of the

above arts of illusion!

Step 1: Identify the area(s) of your body that you need to balance For example:

Narrow hips to wide shoulders, wide shoulders to wide hips, short legs to the rest of

your body, long legs to the rest of your body

Flow through the waist

etc

Step 2: Choose an appropriate basic outfit strategy for your proportions Select from 1 of the 4 ways of using colour above and create an outfit using items in your

wardrobe.

Step 3: Shop your wardrobe Try combining tops and bottoms, dresses and outer layers etc that you haven’t put together

before.

Step 4: Add a focal point Add one or two focal points. For example: using a necklace or scarf; a colour or a texture

Step 5: Note any missing items If you find you’re missing the ingredients you need to create the outfit you have in mind,

start a shopping wish list and make a note of the items you’re missing.

Step 6: Post photos Post at least one photo of you in one of your new outfits in our Facebook Group. Let us

know how you like the outfits you post and any discoveries you’ve made as you’ve done the

homework this week.