PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 16/2010

EDITORI

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTIissue sixteen-2010

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

EASTER CHOCOLATE EGGS

GIANLUCA FUSTO’S PROFILE

SICILIAN CONFECTIONERY TRADITION

PASTRY AND CUISINE RECIPES

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

✁

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena Novarino Monica Onnis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Luigi Voglino [email protected] ART DIRECTOR

Studio Grafico ImpaginaPRINTED BY

Tipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2010 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 225 January 2010

ON OUR COVERUnicamente Nocciola

Gianluca Fusto

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480

[email protected]

NewsInterpretations between past and future

Caramel glaze

Processing machines for chocolate

Quality in a new format

Always at the top

A new member of Relais Desserts

Italian exhibitions and events

Dulcis in Naples

Déco Relief’s new website

Value added pasteurized products

The rapid cold is changed

On this issueMeeting between hemispheresthinking of a playful solution

Chocolate Easter eggs

Capri Sweet

Sweet Sensations Of Sicily

Beyond Traditional Gelato

Fragrant Mix

A Natural Player

Recipes From The Ifse

Red as love

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 162

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WHAT GIANLUCA FUSTO DOES IS

CREATIVE MATHEMATICS, MANAGING

TO BRING TOGETHER THE TWO HEMI-SPHERES OF HIS BRAIN: THE EMOTIVE

AND THE RATIONAL. AND THE RESULT

IS A PROFESSIONAL IN CONTINUAL

EVOLUTION, HUNGRY FOR RESEARCH

AND CHANGE, YET WITH SOUND IDEAS

ABOUT TECHNIQUE, TECHNOLOGY, INGREDIENTS, AND THE FUTURE OF

THE SECTOR, INCLUDING A SEARCH

FOR PLAYFULNESS

MEETING BETWEENHEMISPHERES

We were speaking of Gianluca Fusto, class of 1975, before he became ahousehold name thanks to his brilliant career first as chef pâtissier in renow-ned restaurants, then as a Valrhona demonstrator.He was a student at the Carlo Porta hotel-management school of Milan, whenwe awarded him a prize. Since then we have met several times – the world ofsweets is a small one indeed – with increasing regularity; we admire the diffi-cult path he has taken for his training, and his ability to bring together, with hu-mility and a strong desire to understand, culture, science, history, researchand experimentation, all mixed with the instinct and courage of going beyond.And these are the primary elements of his love and passion for confectionary.Gianluca expresses these feelings in the way he acts, speaks and researches;they have let him acquire his own personal style in which details are funda-mental.And it is with the details that we begin our chat, which both of us wanted, soas to be able to talk about this new phase in Gianluca's professional develop-ment, and more.

thinking of a playful solution

UNICAMENTE NOCCIOLA (ONLY NUT) DEVELOPS THE SIMPLICITY AND ELEGANCE OF

NOCCIOLA TONDA GENTILE PIEMONTE IGP, A SUPERIOR VARIETY OF ITALIAN HAZELNUTS.THIS MODERN CAKE IS COMPOSED BY A BISCUIT MADE OF JIVARA CHOCOLATE AND HAZEL-NUTS, GRACEFULLY MIXED WITH A LIGHT CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, PERFUMED

WITH MACIS (THE FLOWER OF NUTMEG); THE LOT IS WRAPPED IN A WHITE CHOCOLATE AND

HAZELNUT MOUSSE WITH SALTY FLAKES. THE CAKE IS GLAZED WITH A LEMON SCENTED

PRALINATED GLAZE, AND THE DECORATION, IN ITS SIMPLICITY, MAGNIFIES THE ELEGANCE

OF HAZELNUTS.

2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 3

What he represents today is a synthesis ofhis past and of the people he has met, be-ginning with Aimo Moroni, a father of sorts,and not only professional. "Working at hisside means letting oneself be permeated bythe magic of ingredients, the alpha andomega of a style of cooking that listens," heconfides. And then there are other names:Enrico Parassina, the master of sugar,gave him a feel for the range of colours,while prominent members of the FrenchEcole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona, Frédé-ric Bau and Yan Duytsche, conveyed pre-cision, rigour and technique. At Tainl'Hermitage Gianluca arrived at the start ofthe new millennium as first foreign pastrychef: working side by side with chemists,physicians and food engineers let him un-derstand better the world of ingredients, alsowith reference to the human organism andthe nature of taste.Today the time is ripe for convergence bet-ween laboratory and cuisine, technique,creativity and grand products. In 2008 Gian-luca Fusto Consulting was established, amix of courses, consultancy and the sharingof knowledge aimed at all food sectors.His confectionary is of a simple nature, dra-wing on the four elements evoked throughelegant periphrasis, between glimpses ofjourneys to distant lands and self-assuredcitations of contemporary art. In the pipelinethis year is Laboratorio del Dolce Con-temporaneo, a joint effort with Aimo, re-proposing recipes of ten years ago,lightening when necessary and fixing aro-mas when useful. In short, Gianluca is acontemporary alchimist of food.

Tell us about your veneration of ingre-dients.I love to study the raw material, and to learnto respect it. I am particularly interested inits expression, because this is what gives avoice to my work. What I learn I then use tocombine, play, have fun and give emotion.

How do you act in practice?I follow the dogma "separate and bring to-gether". I enjoy moving in the wake of theelements that form matter, following onerule: three products, three structures, threeconsistencies, three temperatures, three co-lours. In short, the multiples of three diffe-rent sensations to provide the palate withcomplete emotion.Then I move in the direction of essence,where thematic suggestions intersect withclarity of taste, geometry of shapes, and ne-atness of colour, according to the laws of

aesthetic isomorphism. It is a journey to theheart of matter that finds confirmation in oursenses. And the final alchemy happenswhen technique, attention to detail and per-fectionism turn into joy, gourmet pleasure,and a smile.Could you describe exactly what ele-ments you take into consideration?Using completeness of taste as a startingpoint, you seek to satisfy and interact withthe seven sensations that allow you to reco-gnise taste: sight, hearing, smell, aromas,kinesthetic sensations, texture and tempe-

"Aimo Moroni taught me how to respect the rawmaterial; Frédéric Bau, Yann Duytsche and the

l’Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona taught methe rigour of technique, rheology and taste"

SEMPLICITÀ WAS CREATED FOR THE CHRISTMAS PERIOD AND FOR FESTIVITIES. IT IS A

SIMPLE SWEET, WITH A NEAT SHAPE AND DESIGN, IN WHICH GEOMETRY IS THE KEY ELEMENT.THE WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COCOA BUTTER SHELL, WHICH IS SPRAYED FOR DECORATION, ISPRESENTED VERTICALLY, EVEN IF TASTING IS HORIZONTAL. THIS IS TO UNDERLINE THE PRINCI-PLE OF CONVIVIALITY ON CHRISTMAS DAY, BUT ESPECIALLY THE SPIRIT OF FESTIVITY AND

SURPRISE.INSIDE THERE IS A BLEND OF AROMAS RANGING FROM WHITE CHOCOLATE AROMATIZED WITH

YUZU AND A SOUR-CHERRY GELATINE AND A CRUNCHY ALMOND BISCUIT WITH CHOCOLATE.

"THIS CAKE CAME ABOUT AFTER A TRIP TO MADAGASCAR, FULL OF PERFUMES, SENSATIONS AND EMO-TIONS, ONE WHICH I AM PARTICULARLY FOND OF BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST TIME I VISITED A COCOA

PLANTATION."MADAGASCAR IS BUILT AROUND A DESIRE TO REVISIT THE JAM TART. ON A STREUSEL OF COCOA

AND SALT IS A MANJARI MOUSSE COMBINED WITH A COFFEE GELATINE WITH TANARIVA MILK CHOCOLATE

AND VANILLA CARAMEL; EVERYTHING IS CLOSED BY A VERY THIN CHOCOLATE CRUST (RATHER LIKE A

CHOCOLATE SWEET) BONBON AND SPRAYED WITH COCOA BUTTER.THE MINIMAL SHAPE IS DICTATED BY SIMPLICITY, ELEGANCE AND THE BEAUTY OF THE AFRICAN ISLAND.


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rature, based on levels of sugar and fat. Without forgetting rheologyand the range of its possible behaviours, to then choose the role itcan play in the dish. On the basis of the articulation of taste, the structures and design areselected, combining textures to shapes. I always try to ensure that te-chnique is at the service of the ingredient, conceptuality intrinsic tothe palate. The right recipe is the one that adapts to the raw mate-rial and to its possible elaborations, in terms of procedure and design.Are there any other aspects on an aesthetic level?Colour and shape are also of great importance: visual clarity evokesthe simplicity of confectionary by means of subtraction, which remo-ves the superfluous in search of the essence. Without ever forgoinggourmandise, because dressage and visual sensations must createan uncontainable desire to plunge the spoon into the dessert.

What are your basic rules?To build a dish and provide emotion to the palate, rules are necessary.Taste is something defined by perfume, aroma and flavour. Fewspeak of sensations in the mouth (which can be creamy, crunchy, li-quid, or semi-liquid), which result in consistency. The human body isa complex machine. Very important are creativity, technique and re-spect for ingredients, which must be set off with specific techniques. What comes first: the ingredient or technique?I go against the flow. I start with the product and then select the te-chnique, not the other way round. I do not seek virtuosity as an endin itself, but as something directed at the product. Alpha and omega.The beauty of a mosaic is having tesserae of the same importance.And what about selling appeal?This is the end result of all the work: maximum attention to detail,not only aesthetic, but also with regards taste. Because it is stan-ding out in terms of technique and technology, a respect for ingre-dients, and originality that makes the difference.What are your suggestions for those who are bearing thebrunt of the crisis?There is no use feeling sorry for yourself if you do not seek newground. Sure, there is a crisis but we have to take it head on, un-derstand it, analyse it and make the most of what others offer. Thismeans reconsidering one's work because we need to put ourselvesinto question in order to understand how we can express ourselvesin order to go beyond habit, convention and the crisis. We need totake a fresh look at every detail and evaluate what products we sellbest in order to offer even better.What more can you tell us about the crisis?You need to have the courage and awareness to take a fresh look atproduction based on sales, so that the client can also see the evolu-tion and is tempted to change. This means putting yourself into que-stion again and reorganising yourself, but it also means sending astrong message to the client. There is a need to go beyond the stan-dard and to ask questions. All too often the attitude is one of resi-gnation without seeking to change the situation. But if something isnot working, complaining will not solve the problem.What do you mean by "going beyond"?I mean not stopping at standard procedures. Today everything is nor-malised for questions of time, personnel, and costs, and so one triesto make products that are as similar to each other as possible with

"My aim is to generate emotions at

the moment of tasting, bringing to life a magic

made of visual (design, colour) and gustative emotions"

"WITH SEMPLICEMENTE CIOCCOLATO, AMARENA E NOCCIOLAI PRESENT THE COMBINATION THAT I LOVE AND THAT HAVE MADE ME FALL IN

LOVE WITH THE WORLD OF CHOCOLATE: GUANAJA, HAZELNUTS AND SOUR CHER-RIES. THE AROMATIC POWER OF A FINE SELECTED COCOA, THE FULL-BODIED

TASTE OF TONDE AND GENTILI HAZELNUTS, AND THE SWEET SOUR FLAVOUR OF

CANDIED SOUR CHERRIES: HOW DELIGHTFUL!"

"The most difficult aspect of our work is finding the balance and compromise between technical rigour and a desire for change"

an enormous range. But this will not help you emerge and be cho-sen for your uniqueness. It is like the world of architecture. You canimmediately notice an innovator, no matter what nationality. Our markas pastry chefs must be immediately recognisable and we must notsimply stop at doing well what everybody else does. What is your advice with regards product range?Also here you need to have the courage to go beyond: leavened pro-ducts, cakes, small pastries, tarts, modern cakes, mono portions,small chocolate, ice cream, and gelato confectionary. So there is aneed to change or modify products that sell less, with a rational ana-lysis of production times, respecting work times to motivate workers.You have coined the term playful confectionary: what do youmean?Especially in moments like these it is important to diversify as muchas possible, with new, playful, original and creative products. Theclient must be able to play with and not only experience confectionaryas a dessert to be tasted. Many companies offer interesting objects

like small plastic pipettes,tubes and so on, aimed atmaking the client interactwith the dessert itself. It isa new way to create newinterest.


And what about the Italian identity?Italy is a huge country and culturally, where ingredients are concer-ned, it is second to none. But it is not a question of traditional pro-ducts but of traditional ingredients. My aim is to stir emotions usingthe perfumes, flavours and raw materials of my country.There is a need to work in order to find one's own style, so that peo-ple, clients, know that with me they will find something different.And how have you worked to define your style?I have studied, listened with curiosity, researched, compared and ex-perimented for years in search of originality and evolution. I wouldlike this to serve as a model, a point of reference and a source of in-spiration for colleagues. I already feel that this is happening abroad,given that I am often told "We never thought an Italian pastry chefcould achieve so much!". But I am embittered by this comment, be-cause it proves what I was saying earlier. We Italians are attached toconvention and sometimes we are narrow-minded.Habit and routine often have the better of change because offear and convenience.Habit gives security but it does not improve you. I understand that itis easier to think in terms of norms rather than creative ambitions.Yet there is a need to encourage ambition and improvement, to leavesomething tangible and to improve oneself and the work one does. I have full respect for this trade and I would like to wake people upand change the situation because it is individual people who make thedifference.What does Gianluca Fusto Consulting do?Consultancy, courses and events. I am a freelance professional andI continue to work with Valrhona, with Molino Quaglia, especiallyon their Petra flour, and with Castellani of Trieste. For them I lookfor raw materials and ingredients from around the world and they di-stribute them in Italy. Moreover, I do a lot of work abroad and I amputting the finishing touches to my website, which aims to be usefuland personal. I hope it will be up and running by the end of the year.

www.gianlucafusto.comPhotos www.carlobaronifotografo.it

WITH TIRAMISÙ A MODO MIO I WANT TO REVISIT A CLASSIC THAT NEVER

WANES, WHICH REMINDS ME OF MY CHILDHOOD AND THOSE PRECIOUS AND RARE

SUNDAY MOMENTS SPENT AT HOME WITH MY FAMILY.THE DISH IS STILL BASED ON STRUCTURES, ON RESPECT FOR THE TASTE OF THIS

GREAT SWEET KNOWN THE WORLD OVER, BUT ALSO ON THE REDISCOVERY OF A

CLASSIC COMBINATION (ALBEIT SOMEWHAT FORGOTTEN) OF LEMON RIND AND

COFFEE.

THE END AND THE BEGINNINGIS NEW YEAR'S EVE THE LAST OR FIRST DAY OF THE YEAR? THIS IS WHY "LA

FINE E L'INIZIO" IS SQUARE: A PERFECT SHAPE, BECAUSE THERE IS A START

AND AN END, AND A CONTINUITY. THIS CAKE ORIGINATES FROM THE IDEA OF

DRIED FRUIT SERVED AT THE END OF THE YEAR FOR GOOD LUCK. INSIDE IS HIDDEN THE POWER AND ELEGANCE OF GUANAJA CHOCOLATE, ASOUR-CHERRY GELATINE, AN ALMOND BLANCMANGE REVISITED IN A CRUNCHY

CHOCOLATE BISCUIT MILLEFEUILLE, COMPLETE WITH SALTED BUTTER CARAMEL. Gianluca Fusto's "art confectionery"changes every six month

THE ASSOLUTO 2009BARS REPRESENT A SWEET HE-MISPHERE WHICH IN EVERY

MOMENT OF THE DAY LET US

APPRECIATE CHOCOLATE, FRUIT

AND SPICES."THIS YEAR'S COMBINATION IS

MILK CHOCOLATE, LEMON AND

CARDAMOM: THE FULL-BODIED

TASTE OF THE MILK, THE ACI-DITY OF THE AMALFI LEMON

AND THE FRESHNESS OF

GREEN CARDAMOM, I.E. WHAT ICONSIDER TO BE THE GOLD OF

ITALY".


A DIFFERENT APPROACHA change of style defines Costa Group present approach. The bo-oths fitted out at two international events such as Iba and Hostwere the translations of today market’s requirements: quality, con-sistency and transparency. The space was divided into an old style Italian bakery and a mo-dern lounge-coffee bar, using innovative solutions to show the pro-ducts. On the one hand, the style of the bakery recalled the Italian

shops of the Fifties: the pastry counter in crude marble, the back-fitting composed of awooden expository trolley, the lab at sight, the furnace’s hood in copper, the white pot-tery at the walls, and then… rolling pins, oven shovels, ancient balances, writings,blackboards and old style graphics. Besides the nostalgic hue there was also the te-chnology of furnaces and expositive counters, and through the partnership with com-panies such as Bindi and Bakermark Italia the place was rich of colours and flavours,thanks to a big variety of cakes, desserts, breads and focaccias. On the other hand,the white and green lounge-cafeteria was more modern and it evoked a carefree seaatmosphere. A very big gazebo was fitted as a winter garden, with small tables, flo-wers, vases, colourful beach umbrellas and books, where it was possible to sit downand taste the coffees and herb teas.

ZONAR’S, THE BEST GREEK CONFECTIONERY WONDERSZonar’s Café is an ancient and well known café near Syntagma Square in Athens,Greece. The café has been recently enriched by a chocolate pastry shop designedand furnished by Costa Group. The long counter boasts a precious enlightened frontalmade of white corian, on which the Zonar’s logo has been reproduced in a decorativeway. The counter is a triumph of delights, such as pâte sablé, chocolate semifreddos,fruit cakes, mascarpone cream cones melted with dark chocolate, pastries, colouredbonbons, French style macarons, chocolates... The bright counter stands out from a Liberty style boiserie with a mirror in the centreand the charm of the place is given by the mix of ancient and modern elements, i.e. atable hanged up on the ceiling and impending cylindrical lamps decorated with silk andjewels. On the right side, a framed mirror widens the feeling of depth and a plexiglassstructure hides elegantly a small preparation zone. The biscuits and the pralines areshowed like jewels and sold in elegant boxes closed with refined silky ribbons.www.costagroup.net

INTERPRETATIONS BETWEEN PAST AND FUTURE

Adding a final touch to the finest cakes, Fabbri 1905 gla-zes are clear icings which create a uniform finishingcover on cakes and semifreddos. Their brilliant colour(which stays the same at temperatures above or belowfreezing) make them the right aid for pastry chefs whowant to add a unique, imaginative touch to their crea-tions. The glazes cut perfectly and always have a deli-cious yet subtle flavour.Today Fabbri 1905 adds a new product to the range:Caramel glaze. Caramel, which is made by cookingsugar until it melts, it is transformed into a glaze, makingeven the simplest cakes irresistibly tantalising, delightingnot only customers’ palatebut their eyes, too.www.fabbri1905.com

CARAMEL GLAZE

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CHOCOLATE EASTER EGGS

The traditional chocolate eggs may seem similarevery year, but if you take a deeper look, you will

discover many new and interesting details fromthe technical and artistical points of view

GRAZIANO GIOVANNINI from Montecatini Terme, near Pistoia, paints co-lourful chocolate eggs using Italian traditional decoration techniques. Hedraws fret patterns by hands using decorating tips and cones, then he em-bellishes his works with tridimensional motives, such as chocolate or sugarroses and butterflies. These eggs are inspired to fairy tales and on their topsthere are small written plates with the classical introduction to the world ofmagic, “Once upon a time...”, and the names of the stories themselves: “TheUgly Duckling” by Hans Christian Andersen; “The Town Mouse and the Coun-try Mouse” by Aesop; “Three Little Pigs” and the title of a Russian folk tale.

Photos Bononi



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From left, Palmira and Andrea, with Lara and Daniele Slitti.

Italian breakfast is the theme developed byANDREA SLITTI from Monsummano Terme,near Pistoia, for his Easter range. He tran-sforms chocolate eggs into the copies of kit-chen utensils and food, such as biscuits,toasts with jam, etc., while the egg with heartdecorations is intended as a lovers’ gift.

Photos Bononi


Fantasy genre, horror fiction and exotic imagery have always been sourcesof inspiration for the chocolatier ANTONIO LE ROSE. He loves to recreatedreamlands and imaginary places and characters using chocolate, alwayspaying attention to practical details through his technical ability and skills.These chocolate eggs refer to the celebrated fantasy musical movie “TheWizard of Oz”, by Victor Fleming, 1939, illustrating the adventures of ayoung girl, Dorothy, in a marvellous and dangerous magic land.

Photos Pace

Le Rose took inspiration form the visual art of native Australians for the decoration of these Easter eggs.

A building in Emerald City, in the Land of Oz. Scarecrow, another fellow traveller. Tin Man, one of Dorothy’s fellow travellers.

Le Rose working in his lab.


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STEFANO LAGHI from Faenza usesdark, milk and white chocolate, marzipanand food colours. The enchanted choco-late castle consists of two halves and abase obtained with silicone moulds. Thesmall towers and the other details are ap-plied afterwards. The green cactus is ob-tained pouring white chocolate into eggmoulds and making it crystallize.The handmade marzipan pigs and bearsare included in the range of Valentinecharacters. The couples are placed ona decorated chocolate bed, an old stylecar and a motorcycle obtained withspecific moulds.


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STEFANO LAGHI from Faenza usesdark, milk and white chocolate, marzipanand food colours. The enchanted choco-late castle consists of two halves and abase obtained with silicone moulds. Thesmall towers and the other details are ap-plied afterwards. The green cactus is ob-tained pouring white chocolate into eggmoulds and making it crystallize.The handmade marzipan pigs and bearsare included in the range of Valentinecharacters. The couples are placed ona decorated chocolate bed, an old stylecar and a motorcycle obtained withspecific moulds.

For more than sixty years, we at

Icam have been passionate about

chocolate making. And it’s right

here, in every little drop.

We accept only the finest quality

raw materials. We work in the field

with our farming partners all over

the world, carefully collaborating

to control quality cocoa harvesting,

fermenting and drying for optimum

flavor. At home in northern Italy,

we use the most advanced

technologies on the planet to

produce ultra-pure high quality

cocoa. All this makes Icam’s

chocolate a modern artisan

product suitable for use by the

most demanding professionals—

in patisseries, ice cream shops

and fine restaurants. We hope

Icam Linea Professionale quality

inspires your finest creations.

And our team is ready to help you

realize your grandest chocolate

dreams. It’s all here.

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R A T I O N , O U R P A S S I O N . www.icamprofessionale. i t

It’s all here.


Bravo Trittico® Executive still remains the top-of-the-range of the Bravo Trittico® family andone of the best-selling machine in the pastry and gelato area. It all began in 1974 when Gene-sio Bravo, current president of the company, had a brilliant idea. He thought it would be greatto have a single machine that was capable of pasteurising and freezing gelato at the same time.Trittico® is now the original multi-functional machine for pastry shops and gelato laboratoriesthat makes it possible to pasteurise and freeze each gelato flavour in an independent and safeway, using only one machine. This means a great time and space sparing, but also a greaterproduct quality. The Trittico® exclusive and advanced technology has no equals in the market,as Trittico® was and it is still protected by many international patents pending. With Trittico® Executive it is easy to make pastries and chocolate products, macarons, savouryfood and gelato as well. Thanks to it, it is possible to obtain semifreddos, mousses and all otherbases without risking errors or waste. An advanced software keeps the recipe safe and allowsto create lots of new ideas, easily and immediately. You need simply to select the programmefrom the 39 available ones, and Trittico® will take care of the rest. Bravo headquarters are in Montecchio Maggiore, near Vicenza, in the north-eastern part of Italy,and it operates in more than 60 countries in the world. The company has also its direct sales of-fices in France, Spain, Germany and Singapore. www.bravo.it - www.tritticoclub.com

Established in 1965 by Renato Selmi, Selmi started its activity as hazel-nut paste processing company and only afterwards focused on choco-late processing, thus becoming a specialist in this field. In 1987, whenPaolo Selmi joined his father in the manufacturing of tempering and co-vering machines, a new family run company arose, which focuses nowon the continuous improvement of the machines and their efficiency.They boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for technolo-gical improvements combined with the structural simplicity of its machi-nes, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellentservice, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant.Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and as-sistance are therefore essential steps of the production procedure andstrong points of success. For these reasons the company is currently aleader in the national scenario of the craftsmanlike chocolate processingmachine manufacturing.The main features of the automatic truffle’s operating are: coating beltin two sections, chocolate dripping aided by mechanical vibration, anddual veil chocolate coating hopper. The speed of the coating belt is re-gulated by an inverter, and the automatic truffled product extraction sy-stem has adjustable vibration speed. This type of equipment allows asingle person to truffle from 25 to 30 k g/h of product.The hourly production is 30 kg/h and power consumption 220 V Singlephase. 0.6 kW. The dimension are W 580 mm, D 940 mm with tray car-rier (670 mm without tray carrier), H 1050 mm. www.selmi-group.it

PROCESSING MACHINES FOR CHOCOLATE

Since 1946, Icam has been a leading producer of top-of-the-range Italian chocolate, thanks to its skills throughout everystage of cocoa processing and an independent productionprocess developed over 60 years of experience. Every singlestage is closely monitored by experts: from the search forcocoa plantations to the selection of the finest raw materials;from the development of highly specialised know-how to theenhancement of cutting-edge technologies.Its technological autonomy and the checks carried out rightalong the production chain enable the company to make semi-processed cocoa products (paste, butter and powder) for usein the confectionery industry and, with the Linea Professio-nale brand, for operators in the pastry, gelato and restaurantsectors. All products are versatile and can be used immedia-tely, making it possible to combine the necessary processingtechniques with the high standard of quality required to en-hance those operators’ professional skills. The wide range of single-origin cru, milk, dark and white cho-colate is available in the practical drop format, which makes iteasier to melt and more flexible to work with. The resealablepacks, designed to maintain the products’ organoleptical cha-racteristics unaltered, are sold in 1 and 4 kg sizes, thus gua-ranteeing a flexible, modular production, in line with thespecific requirements of the professional market. www.icamcioccolato.it - www.icamprofessionale.it

QUALITY IN A NEW FORMAT

ALWAYS AT THE TOP

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via Ponte di Ferro, 85I - 06084 Bettona (PG)tel. +39 075 9869071 - 987038Fax +39 075 [email protected]

Ital Proget, offers a new way to show products thanks to Magic showcase line; the innovative idea is represen-ted above all by the original way of showing drinks. Choosing a drink has never been so easy as it is with Magic Bar.

Magic line includes gelato, confectionery, cold and hot gastronomy showcases, which can be canalized. Beyond the perfect visibility of products, Magic showcases were designed with a practical glass top for consumption.

...I discovered

at last...

a new my products!

to show“MAGIC”way

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CAPRI SWEETMozzarella mousse

milk g 500buffalo mozzarella (about 250 g) no. 1

cream g 150gelatine sheets no. 2

granulated sugar g 50Chop up the mozzarella with the milk, cover and let it stand for about onehour. Then pass the lot through a chinois strainer. Bring the cream to70°C and dissolve in it the sugar and gelatine, previously softened. Thenadd this to the infusion of mozzarella and pour the mixture in a siphon. Letit stand in the refrigerator for about four hours.

Candied dwarf tomatoesdwarf tomatoes

buttermillefiori honey

ginger, Tahiti vanilla, fresh mint, lemon grass

Peel the dwarf tomatoes, fry them slightly in a buttered pan, add a spo-onful of millefiori honey, a vanilla pod open in half and some slices of freshginger. Repeatedly glaze the tomatoes and finish cooking in a 60°C ovenfor about 2-3 hours.Once removed from the oven add a julienne of fresh mint. Store.

Skin of milkmilk a.r.

Heat the milk in a large pan until a skin on the surface is formed. Delica-tely remove this with your fingers without breaking it, place it on sometransparent film and store.

Garnishvanilla oil, carbon sugar, granulated sugar, Maldon salt, lemonbasil, fennel

DressageGarnish the milk skin with the mozzarella mousse, trying to give it a roun-ded shape that looks like a small mozzarella; arrange two or three toma-toes with the juice from the cooking, lightly grate some mozzarella withgranulated sugar, and then add some Maldon salt crystals. Place some carbon sugar in a melon-pear and, to season, make an infu-sion of olive oil and vanilla. Decorate with small leaves of lemon basil andsome fennel.

Stefano BaioccoGrand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli – Gargnano, Brescia

www.villafeltrinelli.comPhotos Francesca Brambilla – Serena Serrani

characteristics:

the force of a great technology,

via Ponte di Ferro, 85I - 06084 Bettona (PG)tel. +39 075 9869071 - 987038Fax +39 075 [email protected]

the power of a new design.

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SWEETSENSATIONS OF SICILYAn ancient sweet, typical of the town of Randazzo. After the grape har-vest, people would go and pick the small bunches of grapes that hadbeen left on the vines. This would then be taken home and crushed. Then,without giving the must a chance to ferment, it was boiled with the ashesof the vine wood, called sciarmenti, which even today is burnt to ash. Thisis then passed through a sieve until you get a powder that is added to themust and boiled. After the first boiling, it is removed from the heat and al-lowed to cool. Subsequently, it is filtered through a cloth in order to eli-minate any ash residues. This cooked wine is ideal for making fruit pickle. For the tirrimulluri on the other hand, the must, after the first boiling isthen boiled again until reduced to a third of the original quantity. At thispoint, the must has turned into a very spicy wine caramel. This is the hal-lmark of the tirrimulluri, which together with other local products such asalmonds, walnuts, dried figs, hazelnuts, and wheat flour, give this sweetits unique flavour. It is very popular among older generations, who wouldprepare them as early as November in order to eat them on ChristmasEve with a hot glass of cooked wine in which they would dunk the tirri-mulluri. What a treat in those days! So we can say they were the typicalsweets of winters past. Today they are considered delicacies no longer

found in bakeries, not because they are difficult to make, but because fin-ding freshly drawn must from a vat and the right ash (i.e. clean and dry)is everything but easy.

cooked wine kg 1semolina wheat flour g 500

00 flour g 100toasted almonds g 150

toasted hazelnuts g 150dried figs g 100

After carrying out the boiling operations on the must mentioned above,heat again and sprinkle in the flours, stirring continuously so lumps donot form; add the coarsely chopped dried fruit and figs and mix together.Place on a table and make a stick. Cut this into 50-70 g pieces and makebiscuits with a light “s” shape, rolling it out on some caster sugar to makethe sweet slightly crispy on the surface. Bake at 200°C for 12 minutes.

Salvatore Caggegi

Tirrimulluri


must (with relatively high sugar content) l 10

starch g 400cinnamon stick (optional)

Boil the must to reduce it by half; take about one litre of reduced must andcool and dissolve the starch. Pour again in the must and bring to the boil, stir-ring continuosly. When it tickens, place in moulds and cool. Dry in the sun.

Angelo Motta

Cooked wine mostarda

This book is a journey through time and sweet tradition in search of the most authentic Sicilian identity. The au-

thor Salvatore Farina describes the most significant stages of the island’s millenial history using sweets as living

icons, giving them voice and a new life. Glossy photographs, taken by the author himself, illustrate evocative de-

scriptions of preparations, and the invitation to taste is more than explicit and goes far beyond the pleasures of

the palate. The author encourages the reader to seek out in person the artistic and landscape attractions of Sicily

and its confectioners, faithful interpreters of tradition. But more than that, he also invites to meet those who, ori-

ginally from Sicily, expatriated for personal ambition in search of work, and who were successful in distant lands

because of their offering of Sicilian sweet specialities. Biagio Settepani – www.pasticceriabruno.com – is a

case in point, whose New York story Farina tells, illustrated by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi.

The book is published by Edizioni Lussografica, Caltanissetta, and is available in Italian and English, $ 40,00.

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GAZPACHO OF RED FRUIT WITH BASIL SORBET AND GINGER BREAD STICKS

BEYOND TRADITIONAL GELATO

Gazpachostrawberries g 500raspberries g 300redcurrant g 100

sugar g 150glucose g 50

lemon juice g 20Blend all the ingredients and pass through a chinoise to eliminate theseeds of the red fruit.

Basil sorbetwater l 1sugar g 600

glucose g 100basil g 800

nitrogen a.r.Bring the water with the sugar and glucose to 121°C. Having reachedthat temperature, remove from the heat and add the basil; infuse for onehour. Filter the syrup and thicken with the liquid nitrogen.

Ginger bread sticksbutter g 100

icing sugar g 100egg whites g 100

flour g 100freeze-dried ginger powder g 100

Work the butter with the sugar. Add in the egg whites and the flour, andlastly the ginger powder. On Silpat, make bread sticks and bake at180°C for six minutes, valve open.

AssemblyIn a hollow dish place the gazpacho; in the centre place a small ball ofsorbet, some raspberries, redcurrants and chopped strawberries.Above the sorbet place two breadsticks and a sugar decoration.

Christian and Manuel CostardiDa Cinzia – Albergo Ristorante Risotteria – Vercelli

www.hotel-cinzia.com

In the past issues of “Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition” we published many different gelato recipes,introducing also the “savoury side” and the plated dessert version. Their future potential is clear as proven in

these pages and as you can find out in www.gelatointavola.it


SMALL BRONTE PISTACHIO CAKE WITH SAUCE AND SAFFRON PISTIL GELATO

Serves 6finely chopped pistachio g 100

00 flour g 100caster sugar g 80whole eggs no. 2

pistachio paste g 20salt a.r.

bicarbonate g 3Place all ingredients in an electric mixer and mix for about 15 minutes.Butter and sugar some small moulds, pour in the mixture and bake at160°C for about 15 minutes.

Ricotta saucesheep's milk ricotta g 100

fresh whole milk g 40caster sugar g 20

acacia honey g 10saffron pistils g 0.02

salt a.r. Place the lot over the heat at 70°C for 5 minutes, blend with an immer-sion blender and serve.

Ricotta gelatosheep's milk ricotta g 200

fresh cream g 40fresh milk g 40

caster sugar g 90spoon of acacia honey no. 1

saffron pistils g 0.05salt a.r.

Place over the heat at 70°C for 15 minutes, pass through the thermo-mixfor another 5 minutes, and when cold move to the gelato machine. As-semble the sweet by serving the cake in a soup plate, with sauce for thebase and the gelato above the hot cake.

Pietro D'AgostinoRistorante La Capinera – Taormina, Catania

www.ristorantelacapinera.com

ITALIAN EXHIBITIONS AND EVENTS

Well-known chefs and pastrychefs from all over the world willmeet on the occasion of IdentitàGolose-Congresso Italiano Cu-cina d’Autore (Italian congressof fine gastronomy) from 31st Ja-nuary to 2nd February in Milan.The leitmotif will be the Luxury ofSimplicity. Identità London, theEnglish version of the congress,is scheduled next June, 7th and8th. www.identitagolose.itCibus 2010, the exhibition for thefood industry and the internatio-nal food market, will take place inParma from 10th to 13th May.www.fiereparma.itA few days later always in Mayfrom 22nd to 26th, Verona willhost Siab, the international exhi-bition dedicated to technologies,raw material and semifinishedproducs for bread, pastry, pizzaand pasta. www.siabweb.com

A NEW MEMBER OF RELAIS DESSERTS Giovanni Pina, www.giovannipina.it, the president ofAccademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani and well known pa-stry chef based in Trescore Balneario, near Bergamo, hasbecome a member of Relais Desserts International. Hefollows Iginio Massari, Luca Mannori and Luigi Biasetto,the other Italian members of the prestigious association. The admission ceremony took place in the French pastryschool of Yssingeaux after Pina’s entrance examination, inthe presence of all members with president Frédéric Cas-sel. www.relais-desserts.net

Giovanni Pina’s pièce, which he pre-sented at Relais Desserts entranceexamination. Photos ©Laurent Fau

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For registered trade visitors only

THE STARTING EVENT FOR THE SECTOR 6 - 10 Feb. 2010

New Stuttgart Trade Fair Centre

GELATISSIMOThe special trade fair for the manufacture of hand-made ice-cream, which takes place right at the start of the ice-cream season, therefore providing you with the ideal platform for obtain-ing all the necessary information. On ingredients and additives, work and technical equipment, facilities and furnishings, or pro-ducts and services for the production, sale and presentation of ice-cream. Treat yourself to a visit to GELATISSIMO 2010. Make sure you note the dates now and register online.

“Delicious! New at the start of the ice-cream season.”

www.gelatissimo.de

IG_Pasticceria int_ww_220x160_it_Gela.indd 1 24.09.2009 9:50:59 Uhr


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The aromas of the renowned almond liqueur and of the apple distillate of Normandyexpress themselves in this cocktail, in which gelato and coffee come together

FRAGRANT MIX

cream gelato g 30expresso coffee cl 3

Disaronno cl 1Calvados cl 4

In the blender prepare with a little crushed ice and servein a large sundae cup; decorate at will.

Roberto BianchiThanks go to Rinaldo Merlone,

director of the institute 'A. Prever' of Pinerolo,Alberto Ferrero and Alexandra Raluca Gadalean

Photo Remo Caffaro

Disaronno is the Amaretto liqueur produced in the histo-

rical establishment of Ilva Saronno and made from al-

monds infused in alcohol. Often it is homemade and its

origins date to 1500.

Calvados is made from the distillation of apple cider

(which in turn is obtained from the fermented juice of the

fruits), aged for at least two years in oak barrels. Although

it does not appear in codified international cocktails, it is

ideal for mixed drinks because it gives character to li-

queurs and fruit juices. It is also the name of the French

region of lower Normandy where it is produced.

Malpaso

The recipe of Malpaso and many others are included in this book, “From aperitive to desserts” (published in Italian by Chiriotti Editori).Cocktails are intended not only as fancy drinks, but also as matches for appetizers and confectionery products, “drinkable” gelatos and as desserts themselves. Serving suggestions, curiosities and historicalhints complete this cocktail recipe collection.

The authors, Roberto Bianchi and Edoardo Baviello, teach at the professional institute “A. Prever” in Pinerolo, near Torino. The book, 112 pages, is sold at € 30,00 and can be ordered on www.pasticceriainternazionale.it/shop or by email [email protected]


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The aromas of the renowned almond liqueur and of the apple distillate of Normandyexpress themselves in this cocktail, in which gelato and coffee come together

FRAGRANT MIX

cream gelato g 30expresso coffee cl 3

Disaronno cl 1Calvados cl 4

In the blender prepare with a little crushed ice and servein a large sundae cup; decorate at will.

Roberto BianchiThanks go to Rinaldo Merlone,

director of the institute 'A. Prever' of Pinerolo,Alberto Ferrero and Alexandra Raluca Gadalean

Photo Remo Caffaro

Disaronno is the Amaretto liqueur produced in the histo-

rical establishment of Ilva Saronno and made from al-

monds infused in alcohol. Often it is homemade and its

origins date to 1500.

Calvados is made from the distillation of apple cider

(which in turn is obtained from the fermented juice of the

fruits), aged for at least two years in oak barrels. Although

it does not appear in codified international cocktails, it is

ideal for mixed drinks because it gives character to li-

queurs and fruit juices. It is also the name of the French

region of lower Normandy where it is produced.

Malpaso

The recipe of Malpaso and many others are included in this book, “From aperitive to desserts” (published in Italian by Chiriotti Editori).Cocktails are intended not only as fancy drinks, but also as matches for appetizers and confectionery products, “drinkable” gelatos and as desserts themselves. Serving suggestions, curiosities and historicalhints complete this cocktail recipe collection.

The authors, Roberto Bianchi and Edoardo Baviello, teach at the professional institute “A. Prever” in Pinerolo, near Torino. The book, 112 pages, is sold at € 30,00 and can be ordered on www.pasticceriainternazionale.it/shop or by email [email protected]

Pasticceria Int 1_2010 4-01-2010 11:34 Pagina 1

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A celebration of nature and its food: Joia is a vegetarian restaurant in the centreof Milan, awarded a Michelin star in 1996, and run by chef-patron Pietro Leemann

A NATURALPLAYER

Many years have passed since vegetariancooking was thought of as tasteless, unva-ried, and even boring. Considered to be se-cond-class cooking, a niche phenomenonthat put animal lovers against meat eaters, itfreed itself of its unjustly attributed role totake on a new lease of life. Because vege-tarian today not only means eating well butalso healthily and carefully. Especially if Pie-tro Leeman is in the kitchen, star-winningchef of the Joia restaurant, Milan, and spo-kesman for natural haute cuisine. In otherwords cooking made using greens, cereals,fruits, fats, and dairy products, but no meator fish. Quality biological and biodynamicraw materials, colours, forms, and aromasare used to their full potential. The key pla-yer is nature, taken as a point of referenceand a starting point in the search for healthand well being. His dishes, fully-fledgedworks of art, are an ode to life and enjoy-ment. For this Swiss cook, food brings peo-ple together and breaks down culturalbarriers. It is a precious gift, and cooking a

great responsibility. Intense spirituality, intel-lectual inquisitiveness and sharp sensitivitydistinguish this chef, whom many call a phi-losopher. Let us begin with the concept of vege-tarian cooking.I am vegetarian out of ethical and moral con-viction. It is a choice dictated by an aware-ness of more healthy eating habits that givesme, with my cooking, pleasure and well-being. Natural haute cuisine. What does thismean?It means being close to nature, both in termsof ingredients used and methods adoptedfor the preparation of dishes. These are sim-ple processes that do not denaturalise theingredient, rather they accompany and em-phasise it. Natural also refers to ideas inwhich there is a stylisation of nature that un-derlines its importance. So is nature a point of reference and astarting point for your work?We are a part of nature and eating natural

food means coming as close as possible toa condition of well-being. The menus arebalanced and give us natural tastes. Thevery basis of taste must be natural, nevermanipulated or altered by chemical pro-ducts. A vegetarian dish provides more har-monious pleasure because it is in tune withnature: we are not what we eat, but it isthrough what we eat that we are transfor-med. What do you mean when you say "ela-borate cooking is linked to material,cultural and spiritual wealth"?The three riches can be presented togetheror alone, and in my dishes I try to representthem all with the aim of giving well-being tothe body, mind and spirit. For a dish to begood and natural it must possess thesethree elements and offer a key of interpre-tation that meets the expectations of all. Wecan decide to eat for pleasure or we can ex-perience food as a journey of awareness inthe knowledge that through our choices wecan determine our mental and physical well-being. The act of eating can turn into purepleasure for those seeking material sati-sfaction, and so a good dish will suffice; itcan become an intellectual experience forthose who use the restaurant as a breedingground of emotions, or else it can be raisedto a spiritual level and offer happiness.Some of my dishes – Perseveranza, Virtù,Serendipity – are also a vocal expression ofa spiritual idea, which calls for closer exami-nation. What do you mean by that?"Perseveranza" is my way of seeing thisvalue. The colour that best defines it isgreen (green pasta, spinach and its stock)

Il fascinodella Sacher(the Sacher’sGlamour).


with red spots (tomato petals) that give itpower, and some white spots (the almondsauce) for candour. The dish comprises fourravioli, each one different, made withouteggs but with wheat gluten, which has thesame characteristics, and no dairy products.This choice of ingredients makes the recipelight and digestible, and is perfectly suitedto the concept of well-being in the broadsense of the term. Let's talk about how your cooking is re-presentative of well-being.My dishes are clean, simple and representa specific group of elements that makeschoices easy. A balanced diet contains all in-gredients. But today there are some ingre-dients like eggs, fat, wheat, and dairyproducts that are eaten frequently and inlarge quantities. The result is a high numberof allergies and intolerance to certain foods.Starting from here I have various tricks upmy sleeve for preparing dishes that are justas tasty yet do not contain these elements.For instance, instead of thickening mayon-naise with normal flour I do it using corn orrice flour. Furthermore, it is easier to stay ingood health if food is assimilated slowly byour organism. Glucids that enter our orga-nism quickly raise the level of insulin in theblood, causing negative effects. For this rea-son, instead of sugar I use honey, brownsugar, fructose and so on. It is a great responsibility for a chef,isn't it?Absolutely. A good cook is one who knowshow to give a moment of pleasure with his

work, that feeling of gratification that enri-ches the mind and the spirit. The act of coo-king is important, as is the act of eating:there is a big difference between food pre-pared with love and care and food preparedfor the sake of it.What are the underlying principles ofyour cooking?Non violence before anything else: the foodI serve is never the fruit of a violent act; wereit so it would determine its character. Withmy food I seek to celebrate life and enjoy-ment: death, in the kitchen, is associated tothe animal kingdom. Secondly, I use pro-ducts that respect nature: the selection ofingredients, which must be of the highestquality, is carefully made. Finally my methodis to preserve the ingredient, without everdenaturalising it. This means maintaining asmuch of its energy as possible, which canbe achieved with rapid, simple and imme-diate cooking processes. But also the com-position of the menu has to respect abalance between raw (rich in vitamins) andcooked (more easily absorbed by our orga-nism. How is a dish created?I try to represent my ideas in an artistic and

expressive manner, and I start by using in-gredients I am familiar with. Later on I takea look at what tradition has to offer. Even themost innovative dishes are in some way as-sociated to our roots. The dialogue with theclient only takes place thanks to the use ofsymbols which are a part of the same cultureand tradition. Otherwise there is a risk ofspeaking different languages and not un-derstanding each other. What makes a dish excellent?First of all the ingredients, followed by thebalance obtained from the perfect gaugingof flavours. It must be linked to nature andalso to our roots. When I make a dish I ob-serve tradition and take note. What is the role of the dessert in yourcooking?It has an important place in my heart: I be-came a chef thanks to a Russian Charlotte.It was the year 1976 and the great cook andgastronome Angelo Conti Rossi, a dearfriend of the family, invited to dinner, turnedup with a Bavarian vanilla cream crownedwith Savoy biscuits, obviously made by him.I was fifteen at the time and I will never for-


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green pasta g 200softened haricot beans g 50

carrots g 100blood orange no. 1 ½

coppered tomatoes n. 2early spinach g 50

spinach purée g 50vegetable stock g 100

rice flour g 5almond milk g 50

nutmeg g 1corn flour g 2.5

sugar g 2.5extra-virgin olive oil g 20

rosemary g 5salt a.r.

Green pastaflour g 50

wheat gluten g 15dry spinach purée g 12

Blend the ingredients together, knead and allow to stand for half an hour.Stretch out the pasta and cut to the desired shape.

Grate the orange rind and cook the sugar with the petit boulé. Soak itwith the juice of all the oranges and reduce it to a syrup. Cut the peeledcarrots into thin slices and sweat them for half an hour with a little oil andcovered saucepan. Blend and flavour with the reduced orange juice. Cook the beans, blend them and pass them through a sieve. Flavour themwith the orange rind and chopped rosemary. Roll the pastry out to very thinand prepare 4 cm diameter ravioli, filling half with the carrots and the otherwith the beans. Boil the stock and thicken with the rice flour; add the spinach purée andblend. Boil the almond milk with the nutmeg and thicken with corn flour.Peel the tomatoes, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds and put themto dry in a 75°C oven for 2 hours. Cook the ravioli for one minute in salted boiling water, then place them inthe spinach stock with the leaves of the early spinach; season with extra-virgin olive oil and cook for another minute.

AssemblyPlace the ravioli in the dishes with little stock and the spinach leaves. Gar-nish with tomato petals and add dashes of almond sauce.

Pietro LeemannJoia Restaurant – Milano

www.joia.it

Perseveranza


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get that evening and that dessert: the per-fume of the fragrant biscuits, the inebriatingaroma of the vanilla, and the full-bodied ca-refully balanced taste. It was a sudden in-spiration that marked my life. During a meal,the moment of the dessert represents theclosure; it is the signature of the chef. Mo-reover, I am extremely greedy. What makes a dessert special?The balance between delicacy and li-ghtness.Is it possible to marry the concept ofwell-being with dessert? There are many ingredients and many waysof putting them together. You need to expe-riment, learn to use little known or underu-sed ingredients and alternate them withmore traditional ones. Soya milk, almondmilk, corn flour, fructose, honey, agar agar,Mycryo (powder cocoa butter used as a thic-kener) are just some of the ingredients I use.In "Two steps forward and one back", thecherry tart is served with a cream of quark(fresh cheese, soft and slightly acid) mixedwith orange rind and a vanilla pod. On themascarpone obtained, decidedly lighter, alayer of pastry is applied that is then brokenby the waiter at the moment of serving. Thevanilla sauce and the mango gelato ballcomplete the dessert and emphasise thecontrast between the hot of the tart and thecold of the ice cream. But well-being, un-derstood as the union between body andmind, is achieved also through other factors.

Which ones?In "Memory", which represents the journeyof our childhood, new flavours and sensa-tions experienced by children emerge:cookies with cream of milk, gianduiotto,condensed milk with biscuits, egg yolkmixed with sugar, and the breakfast bi-scuit. "At last there's rain" is the freshblend of strawberries, watermelon and rhu-barb. The pink base, made using rhubarbjuice, receives the droplets of mint that re-present rain. These are unforgettable memories linkedto unique experiences or pleasant sensa-tions given to us by nature or by the mo-ment. "Yellow pear" originated as a sort ofgame of provocation: I used the kuchinaci,a berry used in Japan to colour chestnuts,giving the fruit an almost electric yellow co-lour that contrasts with the red of the ra-spberry and the green of the mint. Andthen there is "The law of chance" in whichare poured like a cascade, in front of theguests, the solid elements (coffee beans,orange rind, pine kernels, apples, pineap-ple, kiwi, and pistachio) followed by the co-conut sauce and as a finishing touch themint leaves. A journey of flavours that con-tinually change because with every spoon-ful there are different combinations. "The apparent egg and its shell" is per-haps your most representative dish:why?It is the symbol of birth, of life, it is a per-

fect shape. I offer it as an egg non egg thatmaintains its shape yet becomes evenmore important because it is not the ingre-dient you are expecting. Every season hasits main player: pepper in summer, broccoliin autumn, Jerusalem artichoke in winter, atransparent gelatin with the first greens inspring. As for egg, I hide it in a hot cubethat contains within it a soft egg yolk. Mo-reover, in 1996 it became the motor ofJoia, marking an important moment. Is it the basic essentials that deter-mine the quality of the product or is itthe personality of the chef that makesthe difference? The starting point and key player is the in-gredient, the cook is a good performer. Raw materials and technique: whichone prevails?You need good raw materials combinedwith good technique. What is the sweet ingredient you pre-fer to work with? Vanilla and all its derivatives. And the savoury ingredient?Orange and sweet Hokkaido pumpkin inAutumn, which I combine with ginger.What should never be missing in yourkitchen?The passion of chefs. Your dishes are artistic compositions.Would it be right to call you an archi-tect in the kitchen?I like to give my dishes aesthetic appeal,challenging, in a certain sense, the laws ofnature, as is the case with the square eggs.No matter how natural it is, cooking will al-ways be a human creation. Art, then, is aform of expression that seeks to come clo-ser to the divine. Care over the presenta-tion of a dish goes hand in hand with careover its preparation: the marriage is capa-ble of raising food onto the spiritual plane. How do you see gastronomy ten yearsfrom now?The duality that currently exists in evolutio-nary cooking will be heightened, carefuland balanced on a level footing with cultu-ral development on the one hand, and de-generative and involutional food, i.e.industrial fast-food, on the other. What are your projects for the future?I have open Joia Kitchen Bistrot, always inMilano, a more informal proposal for youngpeople and anyone who wants to come clo-ser to vegetarian cooking.

Monica OnnisPhotos by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani

taken from the book "Joia I nuovi confini della cucina vegetariana"

Giunti Editore www.giunti.it

Contatto e Consenso(Contact and Consent).

SELMI SRL Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN)

Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814www.selmi-group.it - [email protected]

We will attend:

SIGEP in Rimini23 - 27 January 2010Hall. B3 - Stand 120

PROSWEETS in ColoniaFrom 31/01 to 03/02/2010Hall 10.1- Stand G 031

The 15° GULF FOOD - DubaiHotel and Equipment Exhibition e Salone Culinario21 - 24 February 2010

pasticceria WWE.futura+r200.indd 1 28-12-2009 15:22:41


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RECIPES FROM THE IFSE

Serves 4

For the flanpurple eggplant g 500

mint sprigs no 4salt to taste

white pepper to tasteshallot g 20 garlic no 1

extra virgin olive oil and white wine vinegar to taste

eggs g 80 Grana Padano cheese g 40

milk g 120honey g 10

Peel the eggplants and set part of their skin aside, dice one half, blanchin salted water with a drizzle of white wine vinegar. Let cool down andmarinate in extra virgin olive oil, chopped mint and garlic. Bake the otherhalf of the eggplants at 180°C for about one hour, covered with a tinfoil.In a pan, sauté the julienned shallot in extra virgin olive oil, add thehoney and caramelize for a few seconds, add the baked eggplant, co-arsely cut, and sauté briefly. Season with salt and pepper, then blendwith the eggs, the Grana Padano and the milk.Add the diced and squeezed eggplants and fill single-portion and but-tered moulds, arranged in a bain-marie in a baking dish. Bake at 160C° for about 20 minutes.

For the fondue Castelmagno cheese g 400

cream g 200

Place the ingredients in a bain-marie and let the cheese melt comple-tely. At this point emulsify with a hand-blender to eliminate any possi-ble lumps and adjust with salt if necessary. For the mousse, pour partof the fondue into a syphon and keep it warm.

For the waferGrana Padano g 200 eggplant skin g 40

Arrange the grated Grana Padano and the finely julienned eggplantskin on a piece of parchment and bake in a microwave oven, set at themaximum power, for about 25 seconds.

MINT-SCENTED EGGPLANT FLAN WITH FONDUE AND CASTELMAGNO MOUSSE

CASTELMAGNO is a traditional semi-hard, half-fat

cheese produced with whole cows milk in Piedmont region, in

north-western Italy. The milk is obtained from cattle of the Pied-

montese breed, fed on fresh forage or hay from mixed meadows

or pasture in the area of Valle Grana, in the province of Cuneo. Ca-

stelmagno is eaten on its own or along with polenta, rice, beef

meat, vegetables, etc. It is also used in more complex recipes and

can be served with acacia honey.


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Serves 4

For the gelatomilk g 150

cream g 150Pecorino di Fossa cheese g 70

ginger roots to tasteegg yolks no 2

salt to taste

In a sauce-pan, warm 70 g of milk and the cream up to 60°C, incor-porate the remaining half of the milk and the Pecorino, previously sof-tened for about an hour in the same milk with the ginger. Add thebeaten yolks and, if necessary, season with salt. Heat up to 75°C for

about three minutes, strain well and let cool down. Pour into a gelatomachine and work till you reach the consistency you need.

For the pearspears no 4

chestnut honey to taste

Cut the pears into very thin slices and warm up in a pan with honey fora few minutes. Let cool down.

IFSE - Italian Food Style Education

Piobesi Torinese, Torino

Photos by Marco Beltramo

PECORINO CHEESE GELATO WITH PEARS GLAZED IN CHESTNUT HONEY

PECORINO DI FOSSA is a loaf-

shaped sheep’s milk cheese produced in

central Italy, in Emilia Romagna and Marche,

in the hills surrounding Sogliano al Rubicone.

It is usually grated over pasta, or eaten with

honey, fruit and cured meats.

Fosse are subterranean natural holes used

for cheese ripening, which are prepared bur-

ning straw inside them to reduce the humi-

dity, and then lined with more straw. Cheeses

are wrapped in protective cloth sacks and

laid on wooden circles supported by reeds,

that keep them a specific height from the

straw lining. For three months they enjoy

constant temperature and humidity level, al-

lowing to develop a unique flavor.

Italian Food Style Education

IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) is an association based in PiobesiTorinese, near Torino, founded to spread Italian cuisine philosophy andfocusing on health aspects and gastronomic tradition. Last year successful classes were attended by many Italian and foreignstudents coming from countries such as Korea, Brasil, Usa. 2010 ca-lendar includes Mediterranean cuisine classes and meetings with doc-tors and experts, specialization lessons for professionals and alsomeetings for primary and secondary school students.

Ifse-FoodFly is the last initiativelaunched by director RaffaeleTrovato: the possibility of tastingfine food and wines flying by he-licopter over production areas, in-cluding visits to producers andrestaurants.

www.ifse.it

www.ifse-world.com

www.foodfashion.it


The members of the Accademia Maestri Pa-sticceri Italiani chose Naples for their last ye-arly public meeting, www.ampiweb.it. Theymet in November at The National Archaeolo-gical Museum of Naples, where they showedand offered to the public their wonderful swe-ets: everyone had to make hazelnut and che-stnut cakes, and small pastry made withAnnurca apples and Costiera Amalfitana le-mons. Gino Fabbri, www.ginofabbri.com,vice president of the association, won theprize as the pastry chef of the year; BiagioSettepani from New York City and Gary Rullifrom San Francisco are the honorary members. Their next technical meeting is planned from7 to 10 March 2010, in Brescia at Cast Ali-menti, www.castalimenti.it

DULCIS IN NAPLES

From left, Gary Rullifrom San Francisco,his wife Jeannie, andBiagio Settepani fromNew York. Both theItalo-American pastrychefs have been ad-mitted to the associa-tion as honorarymembers.

Following the evolution of markets and the use of new technologies, Déco Relief updated his website to make it

more practical and easier for everyone willing to make orders and discover new trends in chocolate and sugarcraft.Through www.deco-relief.fr you can obtain a lot of informa-

tion about Events, New products, the Company, Advicesabout chocolate and sugar, and Offers. Every month a “TOP

Affaire” appears, permitting to find better discounts.Déco Relief has started the production of natural food

colourings and two ranges of hydrosoluble and liposoluble food colourings are available

and included in the new 2010 catalogue. Through its wide range of products, the company can meet

the requests ot international markets (i.e. labels in 6 languages, the respect of national regulations, etc.)

For 30 years Déco Relief has been recognized as a leadingcompany in Europe, Middle East and America.

The export area is more and more important thanks to itsmulticulturalism (11 languages spoken) and the quality

in services, meeting requests in 24 [email protected] - [email protected]

DÉCO RELIEF’S NEW WEBSITE

Ampi vice president Gino Fabbri is awardedthe prize as Pastry Chef of the Year.

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Colori compositi

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RED AS LOVERed is the right colour to feast Valentine Day, appearingas a recurring chromatic motive in these packagingsmade by Chiara Rosino and Lorena Signori ([email protected]). The two artisans are specialized in theart of glasswork and woodwork and their frameworks,rings, mini trays, butterflies, pendants... can be easilymatched to confectionery products (such as chocolates,bonbons, petits fours...) wrapped in white written papers,resulting in original and elegant handmade lover gifts.

Photos Caffaro


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Liasa-Ken is Spanish company located in Guadalajara which isspecialized in manufacturing whipping creams and dairy blendtoppings for confectionery, bakery and foodservice. Liasa startedits activity in 1967 with dairy products and launched a new con-cept: a whipping vegetable cream which was a blend of freshcream and vegetable oil.In the Seventies the company’s first expansion took place, increa-sing its markets share and introducing renewed manufacturingprocesses and packaging lines, while in the Eighties the modernconcept of Ski brand was launched and the range of productsenlarged: new whipping creams and toppings were developed aswell as a line of traditional desserts. In the Nineties, the new factory located in Guadalajara was builtand equipped with state-of-the art technology: ESL (ExtendedShelf Life), the manufacturing of pasteurized products providedwith a longer expiring date, automated production and packinglines, purifying and waste control facilities, HACCP System (Ha-zard Analysis Critical Control Points), test laboratories for phy-sics, chemist and bacteriological analyses. In 2004 Ski started itsfirst international expansion in Europe, and in 2006 an innovative concept was launched: the shelf-life of itsdairy portfolio was once more enlarged thanks to the introduction of aseptic packaging.Thanks to the efforts of its R&D sector, Ski has developed a wide assortment of value added pasteurizedproducts, joining the organoleptic and functional advantages of fresh products with a long lasting shelf lifeof 120 days. Now the OGM free production range includes long lasting pasteurized whipping creams forconfectionery obtained through an ultrapasteurisation process, Ken Nata Culinaria cooking creams, KenNata Azucarada sweetened creams, Ken dairy blend toppings (made with vegetable fats and cream), andtraditional semi-finished desserts.The company also offers tailor-made products especially for industrial specific needs, based on different for-mulations (higher or lower percentage of vegetable and animal fat, aroma, sugar content...), functional para-meters (overrun, performance in freezing and defrosting, stand, stability, etc.). It is also possible to redesignproducts when necessary, adapting them to the technology used by customers.In 2007 the commercial branch Ken Europe was founded in Rome, strategically located as crossroadsbetween Eastern and Western Europe, as a logistic platform collecting goods coming from Spain, whichare distributed in whole Europe.www.skisa.com

VALUE ADDED PASTEURIZED PRODUCTS

This year Irinox celebrates his successful 20th anniversary. The dedication to innovation and thecapability to understand professional needs has driven the company to the 4th generation of ma-chines, the Multifresh® range, focusing on different applications of the chilling/freezing techno-logy to food.The main innovation is the Dynamic mode, that chooses the best appropriate cycle for a single

product (i.e. meat, fish, vegetables, pasta,pastry croissants, mousses, etc.). A specialprogram was created for each product inorder to obtain the best results for bothchilling and freezing, thinking of food andchamber temperature, air-flow circulation,chamber and product humidity, and thespecific working process. The main goal isto keep freshness through a new and lessaggressive air flow ventilation, which avoidsstructural damages.Multifresh® features technological innova-tions such as Multisensor®, a new conic-shaped core probe with a multi-pointsensor, which helps the extraction fromfood; Multirack®, a new patented traysholder fit for numerous both gastronom andpastry trays; Sanigen®, a new active-ionssanification system for the sterilization ofchamber, tools and products.www.irinox.com

THE RAPID COLD IS CHANGED

T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com

My world has changed.My new multifunction kitchen helper: Multi Fresh®, Irinox.

Multi Fresh®, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling.

Specifi cally designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh® offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profi tsand improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlledthawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh® a fl exible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 16/2010

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Transcript of PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 16/2010