PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 15/2009

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

issue fifteen-200910064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

IGINIO MASSARI’S PROFILE

PLATED DESSERT SUGGESTIONS

SAVOURY AND SWEET GELATO RECIPES

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

✁

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia ChiriottiSENIOR EDITOR

Emilia Coccolo ChiriottiNEWS EDITORS

Cristina QuagliaMilena Novarino Monica Onnis

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Chiara CombaTRANSLATIONS

Alexander Martin MARKETING EDITOR

Monica PagliardiADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Luigi Voglino [email protected] ART DIRECTOR

Studio Grafico ImpaginaPRINTED BY

Tipografia Giuseppini

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Editionis happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori

Copyright © 2009 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission

from the publishing house

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 222 September 2009.

ON OUR COVERLemon and mulberry spiral

with lemon sorbet(on page 21)

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)

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NewsRelais Desserts in VichyTempering and covering machinesThe new CP Multi Holding Cabinetsat NRAEvents in ItalyBusiness for... all tastes!French touchRoll sheeter lineDuciezio: Sicilian excellenceAn agreement for bakeryTouching the sensesChocolate on a trolleySweet NapoliA key partner for sheeters and crois-sant makingMillennium dessertGelato World Cup 2010Dedicated to gelatoA.B. Tech Expo 2010 in MilanFine products from SicilyCrackling tasteCake decoration... and moreA new format for chocolate

On this issueLight and linearityThe silver at the Coupe du MondeLoretta’s magic wandItalian fragrance for Japanese fantasyPanettone timeWhen gelato comes to the kitchenA royal tasteRecipes from ICIF

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 1522

A tour in Iginio and Marì Massari’s Pasticceria Veneto in Brescia. He was the first Italian confectioner to be admitted in the celebrated Relais Desserts International association

LIGHT AND LINEARITY

Furniture goes almost unnoticed, giving theproduct maximum visibility. This is your firstimpression when you enter the PasticceriaVeneto of Brescia (www.pasticceriave-neto.com), and it is precisely this objectivethat Iginio Massari and his wife Marì wantedto reach with the latest refurbishment oftheir shop. "This one is the shop we wan-ted," explained the "most famous confectio-ner of Italy" to Pasticceria Internazionaleduring the visit.What strikes you most is the amount of light,beginning from the linear counter all the wayto the ceiling. "The current lighting systemuses LEDs, which means we have increa-sed the amount of light while reducingenergy consumption by 80%. With longcounters such as the one we have now,people are encouraged to start from the be-ginning, go all the way to the end and thenreturn to the middle. Display is important be-cause it is a form of direct advertising."

Dedicated display areasThe linear nature of the display serves a dualpurpose: it facilitates service and it highlightsproducts for customers. And it is difficult in-deed to choose from the 130 types of mi-

gnon neatly arranged on refrigerated shel-ves in the counter, not to mention other swe-ets (oven-baked pies, semifreddos, andsweets of local tradition such as the BiscottiBresciani) placed in dedicated areas and ea-sily identifiable thanks to special tags. The brioches also have their own compar-tment, protected by an illuminated showcaseand fitted with a system for heating themwhen needed. But chocolate is the productthat most needs a dedicated area, as Mas-sari confirms: "Chocolate is a world untoitself and as a result it needs to be iso-lated from the rest of the offering. Since

we introduced the island, praline sales haveincreased considerably. We need to offer avast assortment because people are cu-rious, and if given a wide choice they will buymore than what they intended."Every sweet on sale is described in the pro-duct booklet, which contains the ingre-dients of each of the 436 itemsprepared by the confectioner and hisnine-man team (in addition to a sales forceof six). The booklet is available to clients,who can consult it using identification num-bers and product photos. "We have also in-serted a declaration regarding the presenceof allergens. This is a delicate issue: makingfood for people who have allergies requiresdedicated rooms and equipment, includingeven the dishwasher! To be honest, the fi-gures do not justify the effort." The productbooklet is updated every time a new sweetis created. But how does a new productcome about at Massari's? "Every recipe isa fully-fledged project that takes intoconsideration aspects such as work,weight, volume, aromas, desirability,enjoyment, form, elegance, preserva-tion, and the general sharing of aroma-tic flavours. Every product needs at least

Iginio Massari

2009 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 15 3


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sixty days of study before producing it for sale. Normally, every yearwe offer twenty new products and we try to improve traditional offe-rings in order to bring them up to date."

Rationality in the workshopThe workshop, situated on the lower floor, is a model of spatial andabove all work rationalisation based on an industrial work ethic. Thisterm is always looked down on by confectioners, who make artisanquality their mantra. A clarification is therefore required: "I am all fortechnology," asserts Massari. "In the workshop we have all the ma-chines imaginable, and before buying a new car I first think about anew machine. What I seek from technology is everything thathelps improve quality, speed and precision, which is always apart of quality, while preserving the applicative intellect. For instance,cutting sponge using a machine instead of a knife does not jeopar-dize the quality of the product, it just takes less time and is more pre-cise." And so over a 380 m2 surface area, Massari has placed a semiauto-matic sheeter, a robot for cooking creams, two enrobing machines, achocolate tempering machine, a volumetric machine for weighing mix-tures, a rounding cutter, a gelatine spraying machine, a computeriseddoser, a machine for cutting with water or laser, kneading machines,induction surfaces and computerised ovens including a gas-burningoven which, according to its owner, bakes perfectly and reduces thecost of electric ovens. "Manually some forms of baking are unimagi-nable," explains the founder of the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Ita-liani (www.ampiweb.it). Which takes us to the heart of Massari's production philosophy: largeproduction volumes, made possible by machines, equipment andespecially the use of cold technology. "Investing in cold productsis more lucrative than everything else. We have a total of eightfreezers in which we preserve products, labelled with the 90-day dateof expiry. Depending on type, we freeze finished or raw products intheir moulds, as is the case with the oven pies, which we produce ona daily basis. As specified by Italian law, clients are informed by thefollowing declaration: our products have been cold treated at -20°C.

CUSTOMER AND PERSONNEL RELATIONSMarì and Iginio Massari's many years of experience are useful to under-

stand to what extent personnel counts, both in the workshop and behind

the counter, together with the ability of establishing a rapport with the client,

for such a renowned business in continual expansion. This is what we

found out.

NEVER NEGLECT THE CLIENT

Developing a rapport

with the clientele is one

of the key aspects that

determine the success

of a confectionary shop.

Marì, who has always

worked with her hu-

sband with everything

regarding the presenta-

tion and sale of pro-

ducts, believes "the

client should never be

neglected. Our clients are used to receiving advice from us and from the

staff, which is free to help the clientele in this regard. I am not sure why,

but even new clients expect to find this type of trusted rapport." And, spea-

king of current trends, she adds, "A few years ago clients left more space

for the presentation of products, for packaging. Today they are more con-

crete: they want more product, especially in the praline sector."

STAFF HARMONY

"The biggest difficulties are those related to the ability of creating harmony

among the personnel, bearing in mind that we have many employees," re-

veals Marì. "It is increasingly difficult to work in harmony because the work

is continually on the increase. It is especially difficult to insert festivities into

the daily routine."

PERSONNEL SELECTION

"The selection of sales staff is complex," asserts Iginio Massari. "People

lack motivation; almost all the girls who do this job see it as a stopgap. As

for confectioners, I have rarely made a mistake in my selection. I can feel

what their goals are, their motivation, social and family condition, how they

relate to others, how many languages they speak, their hobbies, and above

all their sentimental bonds. All this I do with discretion, without overdoing

it, but just aiming for a simple chat. Based on this I make my choices."

INTERNSHIPS

Massari receives about two internship requests every week, but "sadly

I have to turn them all down because internships are not provided for

under Italian legislation unless they are sent through provincial or re-

gional schools.

“Even if you look

at every detail, as

soon as you fi-

nish furnishing a

shop you want to

start over be-

cause you notice

all the defects”.(continues on page 6)

Marì Massari


FRUIT CHARLOTTE

Spongesugar g 150eggs g 180

vanilla pod n. 1/2grated lemon rind n. 1/2

egg yolks g 100 soft 00 white flour g 100

starch g 100 Whip the first four ingredients and stir in the egg yolks a little at a time;sift the flour with the starch and delicately fold it in using a spatula.Bake at 200°C, valve open, for 20-22 minutes, in traditional butteredand floured 4 cm high moulds.

Orange-blossom soakwater g 150sugar g 150

orange rind n. 1orange-blossom soak g 80

Boil the water with the sugar and orange rind; stir in the liquor when theprevious liquid has cooled down.

Fruit-based crème bavaroiseegg yolks g 100

sugar g 100 rice starch g 10

cream g 250vanilla pod n. 1

milk g 250 mixed soft fruit g 100

gelatine g 10sugarless whipped cream g 400

Mix the egg yolks, sugar and rice starch; boil the milk with the creamand the vanilla pods. Stir in the two mixtures and the fruit puree, “cookà la rose” (82°C); add in the gelatine previously softened in cold water.When the mass gets to 28°-30°C, add the cream whipped to a smo-oth and shiny consistency.For every cake with a 22 cm diameter, stir in 100 g of fresh soft fruit.

Sponge finger cake surroundegg yolks g 130

sugar g 60vanilla pod n. 1/2egg whites g 195

sugar g 4800 white flour g 48

starch g 32 Beat the egg yolks with the sugar; whip the egg whites with the sugaruntil stiff; delicately fold in the two masses and stir in the sifted flour andstarch. Using a piping bag with 10 mm nozzle, make 4 cm long sticksall stuck together. Lightly sprinkle the surface with 50% caster sugarand 50% icing sugar prior to baking at 220°-230°C, open valve, for 10-12 minutes.

Assembly On baking tin lined with paper, place the 4 cm high cake rings. Makethe cake surround with the sponge fingers. On the bottom place a layerof soaked sponge, then a layer of vanilla and fruit cream, another ofsoaked sponge, and complete with the vanilla and fruit cream. Place inthe blast chiller, and then in the freezer covered with clingfilm. When re-quired, remove the sweet from the freezer and from the ring, and finishoff with the fresh fruit and gelatine or simply sprinkle with decoratingsugar.


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As for quality and hygienic safety, the pro-duct remains whole and could easily last forup to six months if the cold is properly ap-plied, i.e. if after cooling the temperature re-mains constant at -20°C. According toMassari, cold, especially that of third gene-ration with added nitrogen that also helps inthe sanification of the product, will representthe future of confectionary and more.

Rossella Contato

Cake basebutter g 440

caster sugar g 440orange liquor g 40

vanilla pod n. 1ground toasted hazelnuts g 140

cocoa g 60egg yolks g 140

eggs g 340sugar g 150starch g 200

weak flour g 200baking powder g 10

Make a cream from the butter, sugar, liquor, and vanilla; beat the eggyolks, eggs, and sugar; amalgamate the two masses. Sift the starch,flour, baking powder, hazelnuts and cocoa; mix the lot using a spatulaand pour into a greased and floured cake tin to 2/3 of the 4 cm highmould. Bake at 160°-170°C for 25-28 minutes, valve open.

Butter ganachedark chocolate at 45°C g 500

butter g 500peanut oil g 50

Mix the three ingredients together; the ganache cream should be tem-pered like the chocolate, and it is the same mass used for the filling.

Orange soakorange juice g 200

sugar g 100orange liquor g 40

Mix everything cold; filter with a sieve and let it stand for twohours before use. Store in the refrigerator.

AssemblyPosition the cake rings on a pie-dish covered with a sheet of paper.Place a strip of acetate around the circumference, then a layer of cakesoaked with orange liquor on the bottom, followed by a layer of ra-spberry jam, one of cake soaked in orange liquor, a layer of butter ga-nache, and complete with a layer of soaked sponge covered with a thinlayer of ganache. Blast chill to stabilize; then cover the ring with clin-gfilm and place in the freezer. When required, add icing and store at4°C. A sweet that keeps well.

SACHER FANTASIA

The French city of Vichy was chosen in April for the 55th edition ofthe Congrès Mondial Relais Desserts International, i.e. the annual pu-blic meeting of the association which gathers some of the world’s lea-ding confectioners. The event was organised by Jean-Paul Bardet and the pastry chefsfrom all over the world set up wonderful buffets based on fruit, visitedsome local plants and worked on the theme of light confectionery(www.relais-desserts.net).

Relais Desserts in Vichy

NEWS


CAKE WITH RICOTTA AND CREAM...

Spongevanilla pod n. 1

egg g 250sugar g 175starch g 50

00 white flour g 125In a small semi-rounded basin, heat over a bain-marie, to 50°C, theegg and sugar, mixing continuously with a whisk to prevent the mixturefrom sticking to the sides and bottom. With an electric whisk, an eggbeater or a mixing bowl, beat everything until stiff, adding the vanilla.Work for about 15 minutes at medium speed. To check to see if thewhipped egg mixture is ready, put a spoon into it and pull it out verti-cally: if there is a slightly elongated tip in the form of a bird's beak, thenit is ready. Sift the white flour and starch over a sheet of paper and sprinkle it intothe beaten mixture, mixing delicately with a spatula spoon using semi-circular movements, from bottom to top. Pour the mixture into traditional moulds to 2/3 of the height (2 cake tins4 cm high buttered and floured with a 22 cm diameter, or three caketins with a diameter of 16 cm). Bake in a preheated 180°C oven for 22minutes with half open valve. N.B. Sponge is baked when a slight finger pressure on the surfacedoes not leave a mark.Remove the sponge from the cake tin when still hot and place it on asheet of baking paper. The sweet should be lightly coated with castersugar so that it does not stick to the paper.

For the decorated roll

Cigarette masssoft butter g 50

icing sugar g 50egg whites g 50

00 white flour g 50Amalgamate the mass, making sure it does not rise. Colour it using thedesired food colourings; with a spatula, spread out a light layer on asheet of baking paper or Silpat. Decorate with the comb, with your fin-gers, or with decorating tools; to strengthen the decorations place thesheets in the freezer.

Decorated almond rollegg whites g 135

sugar g 120egg yolks g 100

sugar g 50almonds g 90

white flour g 40Beat the egg yolks with the sugar and finely chopped almonds. Stir inthe flour and the beaten eggs. Beat the egg whites with the sugar untilstiff. Amalgamate the two beaten masses.Spread out 400 g of rolled mass on decorative sheets with the cigarettemass. Bake at 240°C for 45 minutes, valve closed. N.B. After cooking, the roll needs to be removed from the hot bakingtin in order to prevent any excessive loss of humidity. If kept in the re-frigerator, covered with a plastic food bag, it will remain soft for 15days.

Strawberry soakwater g 100sugar g 100

strawberry puree g 100Maraschino liqueur g 50

Boil the water and sugar; when the syrup is cold, stir in the strawberrypuree and the Maraschino liqueur.

Custard creamhigh quality whole-fat milk g 250

Madagascar vanilla pod n. 1/2lemon rind n. 1/2egg yolks g 80

sugar g 70rice starch g 20

Boil in a basin the milk, vanilla, and grated lemon rind. Separately, mixusing a whisk the egg yolks, sugar and rice starch. After boiling, filterthe milk and incorporate it while boiling in the mass just obtained. Cookover a bain-marie, stirring continuously using a small whisk. If the mix-ture is cooked directly over the heat, use a non-stick or copper pan tostop the cream from sticking to the bottom and burning. As soon as thecream thickens, remove it from the heat. Cool it down rapidly in orderto prevent lumps by pouring into a cold pan just removed from the re-frigerator, and stir until no longer hot (until 50°C).N.B. Use only the yellow part of the lemon rind; the white has an un-pleasant bitter flavour.Make the most of the vanilla pod by cutting it down its length: most ofthe aroma is contained in the black seeds inside. The proteins of pa-steurized milk are poor distributors of the vanilla aroma. It is thereforea good idea to use 10% UHT (sterilized milk) to make the infusion.When cooking is over a bain-marie, the water must first be boiling. Ex-cessive cooking times lead to poor flavours, especially when there aremany eggs.

Cream of ricotta and cream custard cream g 250gelatin sheets g 12ricotta cheese g 500

lemon rind n. 1lemon juice n. 1

whipped cream g 800Soften the gelatine sheets in cold water; when they weigh five timestheir original weight, wring them out and melt them in a pan over a bain-marie or in a microwave; stir in the custard using a small whisk. At thesame time, put the ricotta in the mixer for two minutes and add the gra-ted rind and lemon juice; when it looks nice and creamy, place it in abowl and carefully add the custard followed by the whipped cream stillshiny.

AssemblyOn a pie-dish covered with a sheet of acetate, place two cake rings of22 cm diameter and 4 cm height, or else three of a diameter of 16 cm.Butter them evenly and sprinkle the inside with sugar, or else line witha sheet of acetate of the same height. Using a spoon, cover the bottomof the ring with cream of ricotta and cream, forming a 1 cm thick layer,and arrange the assorted soft fruit. Use a serrated knife to make threelayers of sponge: place a first soaked layer over the cream; cover withanother layer of cream making sure it is evenly distributed over the en-tire surface. Repeat the operation once more, completing the cake witha third layer of sponge. Place the cakes in the blast chiller to stabilizethem; when hardened, lightly heat the metal ring with the flame in orderto be able to unmold them easily. Heating is not necessary if the ringhas been lined with acetate on the inside. Place the cakes on gold-coloured cardboard or lace, and decorate atwill with fruit, finishing with a brushing of fruit gelatine.

ConservationOnce hardened, the cakes should be covered with clingfilm and placedback in the freezer inside their rings; at 18°-20°C they keep their fre-shness and quality for 60 days.It is best to move the dessert from the freezer to the refrigerator theevening before use, prior to carrying out the last phase of the decora-tion with fresh fruit.

RICOTTA CHEESE is an Italian cow

or sheep milk whey cheese. It is fresh, creamy,

white and sweet in taste.


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Sponge See recipe mentioned in “Cake with ricotta and cream...”

Custard creamSee recipe mentioned in “Cake with ricotta and cream...”

Crème bavaroise gelatine sheets g 10

vanilla custard or white cream g 400orange rind n. 1

orange juice with jasmin infusion n. 1whipped cream g 600

Soften the gelatine sheets in cold water; when they weigh five timestheir original weight, meaning they have absorbed the required amountof water, lightly wring them out and melt them in a pan over a bain-marie; stir in the warm custard (30°-32°C) using a small whisk. At thesame time, add the grated orange rind and juice, carefully stir in with awhisk; finally add the whipped cream still shiny.

Chocolate mousse creamcustard cream g 250

dark chocolate 70% g 180cream g 400

Add the chopped dark chocolate to the custard cream and mix withthe whisk until completely melted. When the cream gets to 30°-32°C,add in the sugarless whipped cream, gently folding it in with the whisk.

Pistachio soakwater g 100sugar g 70

pistachio paste g 30Maraschino liqueur g 40

In a saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil. Pour the syrup in abasin with the pistachio paste, mix and cool. Add in the Maraschinoand mix.

Almond brittlevanilla pod n. 1

sugar g 150butter g 80

milk g 40ground white almonds g 90

00 white flour g 40In a basin mix with a whisk the sugar, vanilla and butter. At the sametime, heat the milk in a little saucepan and pour it over the ground al-monds to soften them; then blend to make a fine mixture that can beworked into the butter and flour. Form large discs like the cake; on apie-dish covered with a sheet of baking paper place three rings of thesame diameter as the cake; evenly spread 80 g of almond brittle usingthe spatula. Bake at 190°-200°C until the almond brittle takes on a nice light ha-zelnut colour.

Raspberry gelatineraspberry pulp g 300

lemon juice g 30sugar g 70

gelatine sheets g 8In a non-stick saucepan (not too large) boil the fruit and sugar, add thesoftened and wringed out gelatine and mix with the whisk.

Cocoa icingwater g 315

glucose g 100cream g 125sugar g 190

neutral gelatine g 190cocoa g 75

gelatine sheets g 12Bring to 104°C. Add in the gelatine softened in cold water. Keep in therefrigerator and use at 34°-36°C.

RASPBERRY CAKE


AssemblyOn a pie-dish covered with a sheet of acetate, place three cake ringsof 4 cm height and 20 cm diameter, lightly buttered and sugared onthe inside, or else a sheet of acetate of the same height as the ring.Using a spoon, cover the bottom of the ring with bavaroise cream, for-ming a 1 cm thick layer. Position one layer of sponge previously cutusing a serrated knife into three equal parts; soak it using a brush withraspberry soak, add another layer of bavaroise cream, making sure thecircumference is filled out. Set aside 100 g of raspberries for this layer

of cream and the next. Repeat the operation leaving a small space forthe almond brittle. Place the cake in the freezer and stabilize; when frozen, lightly heat thering over a flame and remove from the mould. Complete with cocoaicing and decorate with fresh raspberries, currants and blackberries.

Iginio MassariPasticceria Veneto, Brescia

www.pasticceriaveneto.com/iginioPhotos Giancarlo Bononi

During the NRA Show in Chicago (USA), the prestigious 2009 Kitchen Innovation™award was given to Irinox for its CP Multi Holding Cabinets.The innovative work system guarantees perfect preservation, with temperature and hu-midity control to prevent temperature shifts inside the compartment ensurins maximumtemperature uniformity. The Preservation System satisfies safety and security needs,offering flexibility and durability. Each CP Multi Function model allows combined controlof temperature (from -30°C to +15°C) and humidity (from 40% to 95%) for each pro-duct, with a storage capacity equal to that of 3-4 standard cold storage cabinets.The CP Multi Function controls the humidity of all food products, selecting from six le-vels and from 0°C to +15°C. Every product can be preserved with the right percen-tage of humidity. It is also suitable for the most delicate foods and each one can be

stored at the preselected temperature, without suddenthermal changes. The cabinet’s large body is designedto create space for products and supplies efficiently or-ganized and allowing for easy access. It is also suitablefor preserving chocolate, sugar decorations and pro-ducts with chocolate icing for long periods of time,thanks to a constant temperature of +14°/+15°C and avery low level of humidity (40%-50%). It is also possibleto set the Multi Cold Storage cabinet according to one’sneeds, with the possibility of changing the temperatureand humidity at any moment, updating the Irinox Soft-ware and adapting it to a particular product (i.e. gelato,fresh pasta, etc.)Moreover, the CP Multi Function cold storage has an in-novative control system for ventilation and humidity, aguaranteed non stop safety system and a complete com-partment sanitation system. Sanigen sterilizes each sec-tion of the cold storage cabinet, making it free ofbacterial contamination. It eliminates smells and the ex-change of flavours and aromas among different food pro-ducts (www.irinox.com).


NE

WS

Established in 1965, Selmi started its activity as a hazelnut paste processing companyand only afterwards focused on chocolate processing. In 1987, Paolo Selmi joined hisfather Renato in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines, then focusingon their continuous improvement and efficiency. Selmi boasts unique features, such asthe constant striving for technological improvements combined with structural simpli-city, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellent service, which inclu-des the machines testing at the customer’s lab. Conceiving and design, manufacturingand sale, direct shipment and assistance are therefore essential steps of the company’sproduction procedure, making it a leader in chocolate processing machines.The machine range includes also Comfit and Comfit Maxi coating pans, which aremade entirely of AISI 304 steel. They are both equipped with an electronic speed con-trol to optimise the coating of different types and sizes of products. The introduction of

air into the rotating tank is controlledby a cooling system capable of rapi-dly enlarging the size of candies withthe introduction of chocolate. Duringthe following phase, a resistance isused to smoothen and polish theproducts and clean the machine. Thethermoregulator on the control panelenables the adjustment of the tempe-rature to suit the required proces-sing. Both machines are suppliedwith an interchangeable air filter(www.selmi-group.it).

Tempering and covering machines

The new CP Multi Holding Cabinets at NRA

The 31st edition of Sigep will takeplace in Rimini Fiera from 23 to27 January 2010. The expo isacknowledged as the world´s mostimportant event in the artisan gelato field, a primary Eu-ropean showcase for artisan Italian confectionery andit is also strengthening its positionin the artisan bakery field and inthe coffee sector. All the latest novelties in raw mate-rials, basic products, plants, ma-chinery, furnishing and fittings forthe artisan gelato, confectionery and bakery trades willbe on show. Thematic sections, contests and cham-pionships, demos, internships and seminars and exposwill contribute to making it a unique event. The 2010 edition will host some important events –such as the Gelato World Cup (see page 38), SigepBread Cup and the Italian selection for the World Pa-stry Cup – and the organizers are now busy workingto increase the expo’s international profile.Moreover, the first edition of SIGIFT will also be heldfrom January 23 to 27 simultaneously with Sigep. Thefavour, comfit, decoration e gift show will be organisedby Rimini Fiera and Tutto Fiere, with the purpose of hi-ghlighting all the aspects of the artisan confectionerychain (www.sigep.it - www.sigift.com).

Business for… all tastes!

EVENTS IN ITALYHOST, the professional hospitality fair is back inMilan, from 23 to 27 October together with Mippp,Milan – bread, pizza and pasta fair; SIC, the internatio-nal coffee fair; Hotel Emotion, the hotel industry fair,and Shop Project, the international fair for the designand furnishing of sales outlets (www.host.fieramila-noexpocts.it). The BAROLO & CO. - LA CARTA DEI DOLCI AWARDis given every year to Italian restaurants offering spe-cial pastry menus and their names are collected in aguide with the support of “Pasticceria Internazionale”.The new entries will be given prizes the 8 and 9 No-vember in Piedmont, and also the famous chef Gual-tiero Marchesi will receive a special prize for hiscareer (www.baroloeco.it).Napoli will welcome Accademia Maestri PasticceriItaliani for their annual symposium. The 10 of Novem-ber the pastry chefs will show their art in the wonder-ful Museo Archeologico Nazionale(www.ampiweb.it).The world of hospitality is the focus of SIA Guest inRimini, which will take place from 21 to 24 Novemberat Rimini Fiera (www.siarimini.it).Longarone will host MIG, the international meeting forgelato makers, from 29 November to 2 December(www.mostradelgelato.com). Gelato, together withconfectionery and bakery production, will be on showat SIGEP in Rimini, from 23 to 27 January 2010, toge-ther with SIGIFT (www.sigep.it www.sigift.it).

SELMI SRL Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN)

Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814www.selmi-group.it - [email protected]

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The silver at the

California almond biscuit with diced apple and crystallizedpine kernels

whole eggs g 315California almond paste 50% g 320

extra-virgin olive oil g 100biscuit flour g 60

chemical yeast g 4crystallized pine kernels

diced applesHeat the almond paste in the microwave at 40°C and beat adding theeggs one at a time. Separately sift the flour with the yeast. As soon asthe almond paste mixture is stringy, take a little to mix with the oil. Afterhaving incorporated it, mix everything together and then delicately addthe flour and the sifted yeast. Roll out to a thickness of 8 mm. On topof this place the diced apples and the crystallized pine kernels andbake at 170°C for 13 minutes.

Diced applesGolden Delicious apples g 300

raisins g 120lemon rind n. 1

Peel the apples and make small cubes. Add the raisins and lemon rindand delicately mix.

Crystallized pine kernelswater g 100sugar g 100

pine kernels g 100salt g 4

Bring the water and sugar to 112°C, add the pine kernels while conti-nuing to stir until the mixture becomes dry.

COUPE DU MONDEThe French team won the World Pastry Cup 2009 in Lyon last January, while the Italian team came second and its mem-bers were awarded the silver medal and € 7,000 prize. Here are the recipe of the plated dessert (the best score in its ca-tegory) by Giancarlo Cortinovis, and the brief descriptions of the chocolate entremets by Alessandro Dalmasso and of thefrozen dessert by Domenico Longo. The Italian team was directed by manager and trainer Luigi Biasetto and the dessertsand artistic works were inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. Great success for the 20th anniversary of the Coupe, foun-ded and wonderfully presided by Mof Gabriel Paillasson.

LAST TEMPTATIONPLATED DESSERT


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Sweet Sin of Gluttony, the chocolate entremets by Alessandro Dalmasso,was made of Coeur de Guanaja Sacher biscuit, white almond brittle,cocoa streusel grué, Orizaba caramel in slices, Sicilian almond cream,Guanaja mousse custard, Coeur de Guanaja icing.

Divine Love was the frozendessert by Domenico Longo,including almond gelato, ra-spberry gelé, raspberry andviolet sorbet, citrus fruit semi-freddo, meringue, cocoa se-mifreddo, chocolate gelato,cocoa dacquoise, chocolateicing and macaron.

California almond blancmange

Infusion n. 1fresh cream g 650

sugar g 150dextrose g 50

white California almondsPlace all the ingredients into a pitcher and, using a liquidizer, mix the lotuntil creamy. Cover with film and place for one hour in the refrigerator.

Infusion n. 2 fresh cream g 500

lemon rind g 6Pour the cream into a pitcher and add the lemon rind; cover with filmand place in the refrigerator for at least two hours. Let it soften andmelt in a container

gelatine g 12 water g 60

When the infusion is complete, filter infusion no. 1 using a sieve, ma-king sure you extract 540 g of liquid. Add to this preparation the mel-ted gelatine, and lastly beat the cream of the second infusion until youget a smooth and shiny structure. Add the lot, filter and cool.

Caramel Ivoire chocolate mousseIvoire chocolate g 650

fresh cream g 250fresh cream g 600

Place chocolate into a container and place in a 130°C oven for about15 minutes, mixing every now and then so that it remains even. Tran-sfer the mass to a pitcher and mix with a liquidizer; once you have anemulsion, add 250 g of boiled cream. Continue to mix until you obtaina nice emulsion, smooth and elastic, and bring to a temperature of40°C. Add the 600 g of half-whipped cream, emulsify well and pourinto the moulds.

Stewed apples in extra virgin olive oilrennet apples g 500

sugar g 205water g 200

vanilla stick n 1raisins g 50

salt g 2Peel the apples and cut them into small cubes. In the meantime makean emulsion with water, oil, sugar, vanilla, raisins, and salt. Pour themixture over the apples placed in a terrine suitable for the microwave.Vacuum-pack and cook in the microwave for 6 minutes. Drain the oiland then, using a sac-à-poche, pour the apples into the little rubbermoulds. Blast chill to -40°C, remove from moulds and place them in thecentre of the dessert.

Cinnamon and lemon gelato whole milk g 1622

powder milk g 116UHT cream g 604

egg yolks g 90sugar g 400

invert sugar g 30glucose g 90

stabilizing agent g 6 vanilla stick n. 3

cinnamon stick n. 3lemon rind n. 3

KEY INFO Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie (World Pastry Cup)

www.cmpatisserie.com

(continues on page 18)

23 · 27 January 2010Rimini Italy

Artisan Production of Gelato,Pastry, Confectionery and Bakery

31st

International Exhibition

RIMINI FIERA SpAVia Emilia, 155 · 47921 RIMINI - Ph. +39 0541 744111 · Fax +39 0541 744772Visitors: [email protected] - Exhibitors: [email protected]

Organized by

w w w. s igep. it

Held simultaneously with

Exhibition of BonbonnièreConfectionery, Decoration and Gifts


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Heat the milk with the cinnamon and vanilla sticks at 18°C. Add the su-gars at 35°C and then the stabilizing agent mixed with one part sugar,bringing it to 45°C. Stir in the fats (egg yolks and cream) and pasteu-rize the lot at 82°C. Let it cool and transfer to the gelato machine: whenthe gelato is ready, use a sac-à-poche to make it into the desiredshape. Transfer to the blast chiller at -40°C, remove from the mouldsand store at -20°C. Remove the gelato only a few minutes before ser-ving the dessert.

California almond crumble butter g 100

cane sugar g 100California almond flour g 100

biscuit flour g 75

Knead all the ingredients in the mixing bowl, place on two sheets ofbaking paper and bake at 160°C for 15 minutes. When the mixture iscold, crush using the cutter.

Hot apple pearls Golden Delicious apples n. 3


almond wine g 50Peel the apples and make small balls using a corer. Brown these in abuttered pan and add the sugar. Flambé with the almond wine and,when still hot, roll them in the crumble.

Giancarlo Cortinovis

THE WINNING TEAM FRANCE

Form left, the president Elie Cazaussus, Jérôme de Oli-veira, Jérôme Langillier and Marc Rivière, the winninngteam at the World Pastry Cup 2009.


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FOUR SEASONSThe Four Seasons faithfully reproduces spring,summer, autumn, and winter on each of the four interlocking puzzlepieces. A dessert must not only be good to eat, but also nice to lookat: autumn is seen as a miniature vineyard, with chocolate terrain (inthe form of mousse, meringue, and crushed biscuit), little chocolateand glucose leaves, and vine rows made by squeezing melted choco-late in frozen water. For winter, a snow-capped mountain was madeusing gelatine and white chocolate (with agar agar and gelatine), de-corated with coconut mouse, siphoned biscuit (an El Bulli trick bywhich the mixture is passed through a siphon and cooked in a micro-wave), and snowman-shaped meringue. Lots of gelatine, albeit tran-sparent and with a scent of lemon and peach, also for the summersea, which takes on the blue colour of the plate bottom. There is sandall around, made using crushed black sesame praline, and the rocksare made of almonds and hazelnuts covered with chocolate and colou-red with silver powder. To conclude, there is spring: a small pistachiogelato bird with meringue wings and head (I add a dab of powderedegg white to help the meringue rise, reveals Loretta) resting on a fieldof yoghurt cremeux covered with pistachio biscuit crumbs, sproutsand (real) petals (Photo Francesca Brambilla - Serena Serrani).

Small physique, blonde hair, and sky-blue eyes, Loretta Fanella looksjust like a fairy. But behind her appearance is an iron will that has givenher a formidable track record even before her thirtieth birthday: twoyears at Carlo Cracco's restaurant in Milan, three at El Bulli of theAdrià brothers, and two at the Enoteca Pinchiorriof Florence, not to mention Identità Golose'sbest pastry chef 2007 award.She is currently involved in consul-tancy, in addition to workingwith Caffè Mamà, a

coffee-bar (also offering lunch) which her boyfriend opened in Livorno(Tuscany). Loretta creates breakfast and lunch sweets for the shop,in addition tuscany to sweets for festivities such as the Easter that hasjust passed, for which she made personalised eggs with surprises ona theme.

Loretta, tell us about your training and work experience

After studying at the hotel-management school of Fiuggi, I went toVerona to work with chef Fabio Tacchella for almost two years.

I then spent five months at Cast Alimenti School ofBrescia, where I was part of a team that helped

teachers during courses. Following thisI went to Cracco in Milan for al-

most two years. There I was incharge of the confectionary sector.

While working for Cracco, I returned toCast Alimenti for a few days to assist Al-

bert Adrià on one of his confectionary cour-ses. On that occasion he invited me to do an

internship at El Bulli's. I accepted the invitation and inthe summer of 2003, I made use of my holiday to spend

one month in Spain. I stayed there for three years takingcare of the desserts. During the winter break I studied and ex-

perimented new techniques and I also had the opportunity of doingsmall internships with leading confectioners such as Pierre Hermé.

What happened after your Spanish experience?They treated me very well, like a daughter, but after three years I feltthe need to change. And so I returned to Italy, where the level of re-staurant confectionary was low and there was a need for new techni-ques and know how – someone who could give new impetus. Of thevarious offers (Rome, Milan) I decided to go to the Enoteca Pinchiorriof Florence, where they gave me carte blanche over the managementof confectionary right from the word go. I worked there for just overtwo years, helped by three assistants. I always tried to do new things.Had it been for me, I would have changed the sweet menu every day,but unfortunately this is not possible in a restaurant.

As a dessert specialist, to what extent has your knowledge ofcooking helped? It has been crucial in many ways, not least with regards the organisa-tion of work and the collaboration with the kitchen. Cooks and pastrychefs of a restaurant form a team that must stick together.

Interview with Loretta Fanella, former student of Albert Adrià,who has learned how to make her creativity known

LORETTA'S magic wand


KEY INFOCastAlimenti, www.castalimenti.it

Cracco, www.ristorantecracco.it

Fabio Tacchella, www.fabiotacchella.com

Elbulli, www.elbulli.com

Pierre Hermé, www.pierreherme.com

Identità Golose, www.identitagolose.it

Enoteca Pinchiorri, www.enotecapinchiorri.com

When are you most inspired?There are no special moments. Some desserts came to mind just likethat, without warning, while others started out as the memory of ajourney, such as Giardino Zen, which was the result of a trip to Japan.I am inspired by everything that surrounds me. The source of inspira-tion might be a landscape, so I look at the panorama, the colours, orelse an object, like a watch, or a game, such as a puzzle.

Do you seek to innovate or are you more attached to tradition?Some of my sweets come out of tradition. For instance, I had to makea sweet using white truffle, so I started off from tiramisù and rewor-ked it, but always keeping the basic ingredients: mascarpone and cof-fee. I also try to respect classical combinations. To those who expectto see me use the techniques acquired at El Bulli, such as spherifica-tion, I always answer yes, I use new techniques, but I try to remainsimple.

Do you choose ingredients according to some special criteria?First I respect their seasonality. In winter I use chestnuts, persimmon,and pomegranate. In summer, strawberries, watermelon, and melon.

For you, what characteristics do restaurant desserts needto have?In a restaurant, the sweet always comes after many courses. It is or-dered not out of appetite, but out of greed. It is something extra, sothe pastry chef needs to create light desserts that are not too sugary.Ingredients should be natural and seasonal, and combinations not tooharsh or confused. It is important that the whole sweet be eaten, andto do this you need to be good at making it. When I can, I go to thewashing area of the kitchen to see the dessert plates returning fromthe dining room, because I like to see them empty – it is a sign thatthe sweet went down well.

Other than the ones you prepare, which sweet do you consi-der to be perfect and which is your favourite?Hot apple pie is my favourite; the perfect sweet is cream millefeuillewith crunchy flaky pastry.

Rossella Contato

Lemon marshmallowegg whites g 40

lemon juice g 100gelatine sheets n. 5

caster sugar g 250water g 120

Cook the sugar and water at 117°C. Cool to 80°C. To one side,beat the egg white, add the cooked sugar and lemon juice previou-sly heated to 30°C with the gelatine. Beat for almost 10 minutes.

Mulberry pureefresh mulberries g 100

sugar g 20Grind with a mixer and pass through a sieve.

Lemon sorbetwater g 150sugar g 150

glucose g 80invert sugar g 50lemon juice g 250

water g 300Heat the water, sugars, glucose and stabilizer to 80°C. Remove fromthe heat and add the lemon juice and water. Let it stand for 24 hoursand then pass it through the gelato machine.

Mulberry pearlsfresh mulberries n. 10Freeze the raspberries well and close them between two sheets ofoven paper. With a rolling-pin, crumble them for as long as they re-main frozen. Keep in the freezer at -20°C.

LEMON AND MULBERRY SPIRAL WITH LEMON SORBET

AssemblyAt the centre of the plate draw a spiral with the lemon marshmallow. Fillthe empty spaces with the raspberry puree. Cover the sorbet ball withthe raspberry pearls and finish the decoration with fresh fruit petals anddabs of mint.

SOTTOBOSCO Plate-sculpture with meringue micro mu-

shrooms, sprout tufts, a miniature chocolate trunk complete with

twigs and moss (made with green tea biscuit). Making the flavours

and forest aromas even more realistic is a spoonful of myrtle mixture

and some pieces of eucalyptus caramel (Photo Michele Tabozzi).


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Coconut moussecoconut milk g 100coconut rapé g 40

cream g 190sugar g 30

whipped cream g 150gelatine g 3

Boil the milk with the coconut and coconut rapé. Let it stand for ten mi-nutes; pass through a sieve. Add the sugar and gelatine. After about 10minutes, stir in the whipped cream.

Hemispheres of frozen creamfresh cream g 100

Cool a small ladle with liquid nitrogen. Immerse the exterior part insidethe cream for 5 seconds. Wait five more seconds and remove the creamhemisphere. Repeat the operation for the number of hemispheres re-quired, allowing for two pieces per person. Keep in the freezer at -20°C.

Yoghurt almond brittle petalsfresh yoghurt g 150

Isomalt g 50icing sugar g 30

yoghurt powder g 20citric acid g 2

Mix all the ingredients together with the Turmix. Spread out the mixtureon a sheet of Silpat, giving the shape of a petal using a template. Bakeat 80°C for five hours, so that they keep their white colour. Once coo-ked, curve them slightly.

Fresh raspberry pureefresh raspberries g 120

sugar g 35Grind everything with a mixer and then pass through a sieve.

AssemblyFill a hemisphere with chocolate mousse, leaving the central part emptyso you can fill it with raspberry puree later. Cover again with coconutmousse and close with another hemisphere. Arrange five yoghurt almondbrittle petals around the sphere.

Loretta Fanella

THE WHITE PEARL

Machinery, high-tech, ingredients, semi-finished, equipment and furnishings, inspired by both innovative spirit

and time-honoured traditions are the highlights at A.B. Tech Expo and A.B. Tech Pizza Expo 2010.

Milan, Europe's business hub and home to its largest trade fair centre, provides a unique opportunity to get

together with key players in bakery, pastry, confectionery and pizza industries and to exhibit trailblazing

machinery, ovens and facilities as well as world-class ingredients and semi-finished products designed to

meet the exigencies of an increasingly competitive market.

THE MUST-GO EVENT!A.B. Tech Expo 2010 : the recipe to leaven up your business!

We leaven up your business

Events promoted by: In co-operation with:

F & M Fiere & Mostre S.r.l.Via M. Donati, 6 - 20146 Milano

Tel +39 02 409221 | Fax +39 02 [email protected]

Organized by:

MILAN23rd - 27thOCTOBER

2010

Arte Bianca & Tecnologie

Baking and Technology Exhibition for Bakery, Pastry and Confectionery

Products and Technology for Pizza and Fresh Pasta

pizza

In coincidence with:

www.abtechexpo.com

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ABTECH22x32.pdf 17-06-2009 15:51:47


Fumiaki Ito is the Japanese pastry chef who won the 15th edition of theLuxardo Grand Prix. His pétits gâteaux and artistic pièce took their inspira-tion from Italian cities such as Venice, Milan, Rome and Naples. The competition organized by Luxardo (www.luxardo.it), which takes placeevery year in Tokyo, is a good professional opportunity for young pastrychefs seeking to improve their career

for Japanese fantasyITALIAN FRAGRANCE

TREVIBiscuit Chocolate

Caraque chocolate g 120cocoa paste g 12

butter g 127trimoline (invert sugar) g 30

sweetened egg yolk 20% g 67almond powder g 49

icing sugar g 49flour g 49

egg whites g 99sugar g 48

Melt the chocolate and cocoa paste, then add the heated butter and tri-moline. Mix the sweetened egg yolk. Sift together the almond powder and icing

sugar, and add to yolk. Make a meringue with the egg whites andsugar, then blend. Bake at 170°C.

Almond Carameliséchopped almonds g 80


Roast the chopped almonds at 170°C for 5 minutes. Make a caramelwith sugar, then add the almonds and butter. Leave to cool and thenchop finely.

Ganache Orange Drycream 35% g 135

milk chocolate 50% g 100hazelnut praline g 30

Luxardo Orange Dry g 45Bring the cream to a boil, add to the chopped milk chocolate and ha-zelnut praline and emulsify. When cooled down, add Luxardo OrangeDry.

Confiture d’Orangeorange (finely chopped) g 100Luxardo Orange Dry (1) g 150

water g 150brown sugar g 12.5

butter g 12.5granulated sugar g 37.5

invert sugar g 18.75Luxardo Orange Dry (2) g 20

In a saucepan, bring the orange, Luxardo Orange Dry (1), and waterto a boil. When partially reduced, add brown sugar, butter, granulated sugar,and invert sugar. Pour the mixture into a baking pan and let it cool. AddLuxardo Orange Dry (2).

Mousse Chocolate Arribamilk g 100

sweetened egg yolk 20% g 25granulated sugar g 1

Arriba milk chocolate 50% g 220cream 35% g 200


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VIAGGIOPain de Gênes

almond paste g 281frozen eggs g 246

flour g 35cornstarch g 35

baking powder g 4.5butter g 123

Slightly warm the almond paste in the microwave, then beat by gra-dually adding the frozen eggs. Sift together flour, cornstarch, and ba-king powder, then incorporate into the previous mixture. Add the meltedbutter and bake at 170°C.

Semi-confits d’Abricotdiced apricots g 332mineral water g 300

rosemary g 2butter g 48

honey (lavender) g 90sugar g 62

apricot puree g 60Luxardo Amaretto

di Saschira g 20Bring the diced apricots, mineral water, and rosemary to a boil. Addthe butter, honey and sugar, and cook. When reduced, spread on atray to cool down. Add the apricot puree and Luxardo Amaretto di Sa-schira.

Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira syrupwater b 30

syrup 30 Bé g 30Luxardo Amaretto

di Saschira g 33.75Mix together.

Mousse Mielcream 35% g 175

milk g 175sweetened egg yolks 20% g 70

gelatine g 6lavender honey g 80

sugar g 8whipped cream 35% g 312.5

Boil the honey and sugar, and add the warmed cream and milk. Add thesweetened egg yolks and cook like a crème anglaise. Add the gelatineand let it cool down. When cooled, incorporate with the whippedcream.

Glaçage Amaretto di Saschiraneutral nappage g 500

Luxardo Amaretto di Saschira g 100

Mix together.

Pistolet Chocolatwhite chocolate g 200

cacao butter g 200coloring for chocolate (orange) a.r.coloring for chocolate (red) a.r.

Warm and mix together all ingredients.

AssemblyIn a dome-shaped Flexipan, fill up half-way with the Mousse Miel. Placethe frozen Semi-Confits d’Abricot in the center. Fill up close to the topwith Mousse Miel. Close the top with the Pain de Gênes soaked withthe Amaretto de Saschira syrup. Place in the freezer to set hard. Re-move from Flexipan and cover with the Glaçage Amaretto di Saschira.Then cover with the Pistolet Chocolat and decorate with sugar art.

Fumiaki Ito

for Luxardo (www.luxardo.it)

Fumiaki Ito with Matteo Luxardo, Luxardo export manager, at Sigep 2009.

Mix together the sweetened egg yolks and the granulated sugar. Bringthe milk to a boil and mix to make a crème anglaise. Incorporate to the mel-ted milk chocolate and emulsify. Bring down to 35°C and blend the whip-ped cream.

Orange Dry syrupmineral water g 30

Luxardo Orange Dry g 45syrup 30 Bé g 30

Mix together.

Pistolet Chocolatsweet chocolate g 300

cocoa butter g 150chocolate coloring (red) a.r.

Warm and mix together all ingredients.

AssemblyPlace the rings on a savarin-shaped Flexipan mold placed upside-down,and line with plastic film. Pour the Mousse Chocolate Arriba half-way upthe rings. Cut the Biscuit Chocolat into 5 cm circles, soak with Orange Dry syrup,place the Almond Caramelisé and Confiture d’Orange on them, andfreeze. Place the biscuit onto the mousse and put in the freezer to sethard. Remove from the rings and cover with Pistolet Chocolat. Pour theGanache Orange Dry into the indentation and decorate with orange peelsand sugar art.

Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail: [email protected] Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444 414 719

Tekno Stamap in cooperation with major companies worldwide is developing a wide range of new products. It is now present , directly or indirectly, in all Countries of the worldTekno Stamap production range includes manual and automatic sheeters, planetary mixers, machines for croissant making, lines for puff pastry and laminated dough ideal for both small bakers’ and confectioners’ as well as for medium-size factories

ge of new

rs, machines and

A dynamic, fl exible and technologically advanced company

Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail: [email protected] Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444 4


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28

FICHISSIMOPanettone with figs

Figs marinated for 24 hours in Zibibbo wineZibibbo wine l 4

Jumbo dried figs g 3,500 Place the figs in a container, pour the Zibibbo over them and keep thempressed for 24 hours. Drain them well at a temperature of 34°C. Cutthem into 4x4 cm cubes.

Almond and mandarin icingalmond powder g 1,000

grated mandarin rind g 300

flour g 50

white cane sugar g 800

egg whites g 400Place all the ingredients in the cutter and emulsify for about 50 seconds.Keep in vacuum bags in the refrigerator at +4°C.

First doughwhite cane sugar g 1,500

natural water at 30°C g 1,000

pasteurized egg

yolks at 30°C g 2,500

flour for panettoni

380W at 30°C g 4,000

natural yeast g 1,500

water g 500

creamed butter g 2,500Knead the flour, sugar, natural yeast, egg yolks and the first part of water;after 35 minutes add the butter and, once amalgamated, the rest of the water.Position the dough in buttered boxes and place in a raising chamber for12-14 hours at 26°C. The following day use only when the mass has tripled in volume.

Second doughflour for panettoni

380W at 30°C g 1,000

pasteurized egg yolks

at 30°C g 400


liquid butter g 500

coarse Sicilian salt passed

through the cutter g 130

figs marinated in Zibibbo g 4,000Start by kneading the flour with the leavened dough of the day before.Add the cane sugar and egg yolks; let it string well and add the liquid but-ter and salt. Lastly, add the figs and continue to knead, making sure youuse the mixer only for the amount of time needed to insert the pieces. Let it rest in boxes at 30°C in the raising chamber with 75% humidity.Prepare the portions and place them in low 750 g fluted paper cases.Leave for 6-8 hours in the chamber until 2 cm beneath the edge of thepaper case, and before baking them, cover with mandarin-scented al-mond icing.

Cook at 165°C Cooking time 45-50 minutesVapour 3 seconds Closed valve 30 minutes and 15 open

As soon as they are ready turn them over and place them in the blast chil-ler at +2°C in the middle of the product.

ZIBIBBO (or Moscato di Pantelleria) is the name of a sweet wine.

The wine came from Aegypt and was introduced in the island of Pantelle-

ria by the Phoenicians in ancient times.

PANETTONETIME


THE CLASSIC

Almond and hazelnut icingalmond powder g 700

hazelnut powder g 300

flour g 50


egg whites g 400Place all the ingredients in the cutter and emulsify for about 50 seconds.Keep in vacuum bags in the refrigerator at +4°C.

First doughwhite cane sugar g 1,700

natural water at 30°C g 1,000


at 30°C g 2,300

flour for panettoni

380W at 30°C g 4,000

natural yeast g 1,800

water g 500

creamed butter g 2,700Knead the flour, sugar, natural yeast, egg yolks and the first part of water;after 35 minutes add the butter and, once amalgamated, the rest of thewater.Position the dough in buttered boxes and place in a raising chamber for12-14 hours at 26°C. The following day use only when the mass has tri-pled in volume.

Second doughflour for panettoni

380W at 30°C g 1,000


at 30°C g 450


liquid butter g 800

Cervia salt g 120

raisins washed

in 40°C water g 3000

candied orange rind at 30°C g 2,500Start by kneading the flour with the leavened dough of the day before.Add the cane sugar and egg yolks; let it string well and add the liquid but-ter and salt. Lastly, add the fruit making sure you use the mixer only forthe amount of time needed to insert the mixture. Let it rest in boxes at 30°C in the raising chamber with 75% humidity.Prepare the portions and place them in low 1.000 g fluted paper cases.Leave for 6-8 hours in the chamber until 2 cm beneath the edge of thepaper case, and before baking them, cover with almond and hazelnuticing.

Cook at 165°C Cooking time 45-50 minutesVapour 3 seconds Closed valve 30 minutes and 15 open

As soon as they are ready turn them over and place them in the blast chil-ler at +2°C in the middle of the product.

Roberto RinaldiniRimini

www.rinaldinipastry.comphotos Giancarlo Bononi

With four shops in Italy, the talentedRoberto Rinaldini has been leader ofmany teams representing Italy inworld championships and is a mem-ber of the AMPI association(www.ampiweb.it). His trademarkRinaldini Luxury is a franchising:www.rinaldinipastry.com.


Rollmatic wasfounded in 1985in Schio, nearVicenza, in anarea wheremany companiesproduce machines and equipment forbakery and pastry shops. Thanks to thisindustrial culture and its founding partners’commitment, the company profits from more than forty years of expe-rience. Consistency, dedication and the ever-present drive for researchand experimentation result in a prestigious place in the Italian market, aswell as overseas, where the bulk of products are exported. Rollmatic is in-ternationally acknowledged for quality and reliability, with products posi-tioned in the medium/up-market bracket. At the core of machines, there’sa combination of technology, deep process knowledge, artisan produc-

tion and technical progress. During the designing phase, cutting edge 3D design systems are used to simulatethe machine operation, identifying and solving possible problems before passing to the construction phase.

The Roll sheeter line stands out for the technical solutions adopted and the manufacturing details, which guarantee a fine and pliabledough,kneaded continuously and homogeneously, without interruptions, through a noiseless operation. The wide range of models and op-tions (more than 35) spans from the simplest manually-operated machine to the most sophisticated programmable devices. Their main features are: a sleek, cornerless design, avoiding the accumulation of dust; easy cleaning; easy scraper removal and, in mo-dels with mobile tables, easy belt replacement; micrometric dough thickness adjustment; upward folding table to reduce overall dimen-sions. Both compact table and traditional floor-based versions are available and all parts in contact with the dough are food compatible.The wide range of accessories includes the cutting set and the flour duster, while the automatic dough spooling unit is available in themore prominent models. Semiautomatic and automatic versions have a simplified programmable touch screen and 100 work programs.Tables range from 500 to 700 mm wide and from 500 to 2000 mm long, depending on the model and version (www.rollmatic.com).

Roll sheeter line

VeronaFiere has drawn up a strategic partnership agreement withFippa, the Italian Federation of bakers, bakers-confectioners and relatedfields. This agreement will run through to 2019 and will help promoteSiab – the International techno-bake exhibition which willtake place in Verona, from 22 to 26 May 2010 – as well asa series of events. "In short, we will jointly organise – said Giovanni Mantovani,general director of VeronaFiere – several informative andtraining convention appointments, also focusing on profes-sional updates targeting operators in the field as well as con-sumers. A first strategic step bringing VeronaFiere-Siab and Fippatogether includes their joint attendance at IBA in Düsseldorf,the international bakery exhibition (www.siabweb.com).

An agreement for bakery

Duciezio is the Siciliansweets, confectionary,and gelato Associationpresided over by the jour-nalist and photographerSalvatore Farina. He issupported by a group ofwell known Sicilian pro-fessionals: vice-presidentSalvatore Scarpulla; trea-surer Samuele Palumbo; secretary Lillo De Fraia; councillors MicheleTedesco, Nuccio and Salvatore Daidone. During their first successful meeting, more than 60 pastry chefs and ge-lato makers approved with thunderous applause the following propo-sals. 1) Setting up the Pupaccena Prize. The sugar statuette is a veryold sweet that is almost extinct; it is the perfect award to be given everyyear to the work that has most helped promote the identity, culture andimage of Sicily. 2) The association's appointment will be held during thefirst ten days of February, every year in a different city with a historicaland cultural heritage worth promoting. During the event, master confec-tioners representing Sicily will honour the host city by making typicalsweets. At the same time, young trainee confectioners will take part in acompetition dedicated to the Sicilian tradition. The winner will receivean internship in New York at the Biagio Settepani’s labs. 3) The organi-sation of Sicily Days Abroad during Easter.

Duciezio: Sicilian excellence

Déco Relief follows up theworld innovations in pastry andchocolate decorations. Withtheir experience, quality andFrench touch they offer a largevariety of products: siliconeand polycarbonate chocolatemoulds, with 76 new polycar-bonate models designed by re-cognized chocolate chefs; 300silicone prints for sugar and al-mond paste making; food co-lourings, flavours and spraysfor chocolate, sugar, cakes,and gelato; gum paste flowersand chocolate transfers; Iso-malt, compressors, airbrushes,tempering machines and gui-tars for chocolate. Moreover,the range includes also chocolate fountains, displays, royal sparksand candles with coloured flames, etc.Déco Relief is present in 60 countries in the 5 continents with distri-butors. They participate in more than 25 international exhibitionsper year around the world, making sugar, chocolate and almond

paste demonstrations,teaching how to use theirproducts and showingthe last fashion in choco-late and sugar. This year the company ispresent at PIR-Moscow(30 September - 3 Octo-ber), IBA-Germany (Oc-tober 3-9), VKR-Ukraine(November 10-12)(www.deco-relief.fr).

French touch

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Idea5 takes its inspiration from the five senses,an emotional and tasting itinerary created bychocolate maker Maide Mazzocchi and chefFrancesco Merlino. It is a box of 25 small discsmade of combinations of various types of cho-colate and spices, salts, flowers, and fruits. Fivesmall discs for each taste, make a total of 125discs and 250 g of product. The aim is to tastethe individual discs or to create multilayeredchocolates by playing around with various com-binations. It is a sort of edible game of draughts (www.maide.it - www.francescomerlino.it).


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Millennium dessertArchitect Amira Chartouni's idea is ta-king shape: that of the dessert for thecentury for every Italian (and foreign)city created, by pastry chefs and cho-sen by consumers by means of a vote.Confectioners from Milan, Rome, Turin,Naples, Verona, Ferrara, and others,are already working to invent the des-sert for their city. For example Il Milane-ser, Milan's chocolate dessert, hasbeen voted and sold for Saint Valenti-ne's, offered with a love poem. The initiative for finding the most repre-sentative sweet of every city will conti-nue until 2015, after the ExpoUniversale of Milan (www.millenium-dessert.com)

Quality and research ap-plied to confectionery artare the milestones of Viva-dolce’s work. Today thecompany offers a broaderchoice of sweet and sa-

voury frozen products, through therediscovery of the Neapolitan pa-stry tradition. The company uses old artisan reci-pes, such as for the pastiera, asymbol of local confectionery, madeof five basic ingredients – eggs, ri-cotta cheese, wheat, flour and can-died fruit. Vivadolce offers pastierain its Break&Cake line, includingalso cakes, krapfens and dou-ghnuts (www.vivadolce.it).

Sweet Napoli

Tekno Stamap was established in 1982 in Grisignano diZocco, near Vicenza, for the production of mechanical equip-ment for the food industry, and then increased its range of products including a whole set of ma-nual and automatic sheeters, and automatic groups for croissant making. Big investments weremade, leading to a dynamic and flexible company asset, providing customers with high qualitysoftware and hardware solutions, and developing technology both in the design and the outlookof the products. Being present (directly or indirectly) in 75 countries, Tekno Stamap is now a keypartner in designing and developing new machines and systems with companies all over theworld.In the Autosmart 7000 models, the user friendly touch screen makes the programming easythanks to a “smart software”. It is possible to set 50 working programs and link together severallaminating cycles in a sequence. The sequential programming offers the possibility of settingstarts, stops, increase and decrease of the roller gap to meet specific needs without manualoperation. The new automatic flour duster and the stress free dough winder reduce workingtime. Starting from medium productions up to industrial needs, these machines are a reliable aid.Autosmart’s special features are: variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec; colortouch-screen 8’’; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjustable flour quantity.Some optionals are also available, i.e. dough width control; cutting device with rollers and varia-ble speed.With its rollers of 123 mm diameter, Auto 123 allows to work very hard dough and to get thethinnest sheets. It is available with 700 mm or 800 mm conveyor width, to work larger doughblocks with almost no limits of weight. Its special features are: rollers positioning with verticaldrive; lamination rollers 123 mm of diameter; variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec;color touchscreen 8’’; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjustable flourquantity. Optionals are dough width control and a cutting device with rollers and variable speed(www.teknostamap.com).

A key partner for sheeters and croissant making

The young designer Andrea Vecera wasawarded first prize in a competition set up byMunicipality and Province of Turin Chamberof Commerce, for his Choc à Porter. It is aspecial trolley which can be used for servingchocolates and chocolate desserts in restau-rants. The prototype is tested in Davide Sca-bin's restaurant, Combal.zero(www.combal.org - www.andreavecera.it).

Chocolate on a trolley

Touching the senses


comes to the kitchenGelato in Tavola is the international contest dedica-ted to gelato maker Enzo Vannozzi, which takesplace every two years in Sigep. In the last edition inJanuary, 8 teams – formed by a chef and a gelatomaker – competed with great creativity: Italy won,followed by Argentina and Germany; fourth place forBrasil, France, Greece, Hungary and United States. The next event in Sigep 2010 will be the 4th editionof the Gelato World Cup

SEA AND LAND FINGER FOOD

Prawn gelatocream 35% g 100

milk g 450shellfish stock g 30

low fat powdered milk g 36dextrose g 170stabiliser g 3

prawns g 208salt g 3

Parmigiano water-icewater g 500

Parmigiano cheese g 300jelly g 3

dextrose g 30

WHEN GELATO

Waffeln with foie-gras gelato,onions chutney and crushed,

toasted hazelnuts

Parmigiano water-ice

prawn gelatoDried salted cod gelatoand rosemary, creamed

chick peas soup


GE

LATO

Two-tones cuttlefish sheets of pastrymushed cuttlefish g 600

black ink from the cuttlefishmascarpone cheese g 30extra virgin olive oil a.r.

garlic clove n. 1sage leaf n. 5

white wine a.r.salt and pepper a.r.

Sea urchin milk gelatomilk g 555

low fat powdered milk g 110maltodestrine g 30

dextrose g 110glicerine g 10stabiliser g 7

sea urchin g 90salt g 8

extravirgin olive oil g 80

Marjoran saucemarjoran leaves; boiled cream; garlic clove boiled in cream;extravirgin olive oil

Foie-gras gelatowater g 550

foie-gras g 345dry glucose g 30


dry sherry wine g 8salt g 3

Onions chutneyonions kg 1sugar kg 1.5

vinegar g 300salt and coriander seeds a.r.

Dried salted cod gelatocream 35% g 50

milk g 626dry glucose g 70


dried salted cod g 220salt g 3

extra-virgin olive oil g 70

cilinder cuttlefish, sea urchin gelato and cepes cannelloni

... SEA AND LAND MAIN COURSE


White chocolate and sweet cheese creammilk gelato base g 60

Gelostella yogurt 30* g 30fresh cheese g 100

white chocolate g 130fresh milk g 550

saccharose g 70dextrose g 40

Vanilla Lab Stella* g 20

RUBICK’S CUBEplated dessert

KEY INFOGelato in Tavola www.gelatointavola.it

Co.Gel-Fipe www.fipe.it/fipe/Comitati-n/gelatieri.htm_cvt.htm

Coppa del Mondo della Gelateria www.coppamondogelateria.it

Sigep www.sigep.it

Luca Landi, Green Park Resort, Tirrenia www.greenparkresort.com

*Prodotti Stella www.prodottistella.it

Almond gelatomilk gelato base g 60

fresh milk g 630dextrose g 110

saccharose g 110almond paste g 90

Raspberry sorbetraspberry pulp g 572

lemon juice g 30water g 170

dry glucose g 35dextrose g 100

saccharose g 90stabiliser g 90

Passion fruit geléefresh passion fruit juice g 600

pectin g 20glucose g 200

water g 740+45tartaric acid g 4lemon juice g 10

Luca Landi

Enrico Benedetti

Simone Bertaccini


GE

LATO

Almond biscuitegg whites g 700

sugar g 150egg yolks g 700

sugar g 150flour g 150

starch g 150Add one part of egg whites beaten with the sugar to the whipped eggyolks and mix. Add to the flours and amalgamate. Add the remainingwhipped egg whites and delicately mix. Spread out on a baking tin withgreaseproof paper and cook at 230°C for 6 minutes.

Giardiniera (fruit salad)mango n. 1papaya n. 1

grapefruit n. 1strawberry n. 5

Cut the fruit into thin julienne strips and soak in the orange juice.

Gelato mixFlavours at will: we advise vanilla gelato with a mix of fruit sorbets.

AssemblyPlace the gelato on the almond biscuit, mixing the flavours; alternate thelayers.

1 first filling with gelato mix2 place another layer of biscuit3 second filling with gelato mix4 distribute the thinly cut fresh fruit5 close with a third layer of biscuit and cool

PresentationCut into toast-type segments, fasten with bamboo stick, and garnishwith fresh fruit.

Pierpaolo Magni

Cast Alimenti - www.castalimenti.it

Photos Vincenzo Lonati

GELATO SANDWICH

ALMENDRADOIn Italy, this type of sweet used to be known as mattonella (little brick). Itcomes from Argentina, where Italian and Arab immigrants met: theyadded almonds to the mattonella to create the Almendrado or mandor-lato. It is a cream-flavoured gelato with citrus fruit aromas, almond es-sential oil, and sugar-coated almonds covered with almond brittlechippings.

fresh milk g 5,460cream g 2,850

sugared egg yolks g 1,250saccharose g 900

dehydrated glucose syrup g 500dextrose g 360

skimmed milk powder g 360pure milk protein g 120

vegetable fibre g 120neutral 0.5% g 80

total g12,000Pasteurize the ingredients and, during pasteurization, add the vanilla pod,orange rind, and essential oil of bitter almond (one drop per litre).When thickening is almost finished in the vertical machine, add 1,000 gof whole sugar-coated almonds and extract. In a mould, arrange the sponge soaked generously in amaretto (rum or

Strega liqueur depending on taste and local customs). Fill the mould with gelato and blast chill at -40°C. Remove the mould andfinish as in the photo, using Italian meringue to get the crushed almonds tostick.

Elio Palmieri

Gelateria Godot, Rovigo

1

2

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Machinery, new te-chnology, productsand equipment in-spired by both inno-vative research andtime-honoured tra-dition are the majorassets of the for-thcoming edition ofA.B. Tech Expoand A.B. TechPizza Expo, the ba-king and techno-logy exhibitions, tobe held in Milanfrom 23 to 27 Oc-tober 2010, and in-volving companies

operating for bread-making, pastry, confec-tionery, pizzerias, fresh pasta, gelato, short-order eateries and catering.

"The companies that are a notch above are those that are true play-makers, that come up with new ideas and are intent on delivering onthe needs of a changing and more competitive market. There's agrowing need to understand the requirements of consumers see-king products that are quick to eat, are rooted locally, are of qualityand happen to be unique in their kind. This is why it is necessary totailor for artisan businesses and large-scale corporations alike first-rate equipment and production lines, sleek and functional furni-shings and superior ingredients. The exhibitions will offer first-handcontacts and exchange of ideas with business analysts, while brin-ging together entrepreneurs exhibiting innovative products and tradeoperatives seeking them to keep their enterprise one step ahead",said Aldo Tagliabue, the organizer of the event.Large numbers of manufacturers have confirmed their participationand already account the great part of the overall show floor occu-pied in 2007, and Milan confirms its pre-eminent role in the food in-dustry and in world-class technology for food. To back up thedevelopment and growth of the show, the promoters and the organi-zer – the SIPAN Consortium and F&M Fiere & Mostre – are finali-sing strategic alliances with foremost vocational schools, tradepublishers and associations to cooperate in events, seminars andtraining areas that will offer visitors a major opportunity to tap into astream of knowledge (www.abtechexpo.com).


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Preparations for the Gelato World Cup 2010 areunder way: the competition will be held in Rimini Fieraduring Sigep, from 23 to 27 January, which is par-tner of the event. Supporters include some Italiancompanies such as Bravo, Debic and Prodotti Stella,which will officially be the main sponsors, while themagazines “Pasticceria internazionale”, “PuntoIt”, andthe web Chefdicucinamagazine.com are the media sponsors. For theVIP guests of the sponsoring enterprises and for the qualified journa-lists, in the Gelateria Forum a dedicated space will be set up, where itwill be possible to discuss, to meet the competitors, to taste gelatos,sorbettos and semifreddos. The programme of the 2010 edition also includes: a totally renewed lo-cation, an increased number of international teams (from 8 to 10), andan entire day (Sunday) set aside for ice carving. The competition willtake place on Monday and Tuesday (25 and 26 January) and the pre-viously required sugar work of art will be replaced by a chocolate one. The famous pastry chef Eliseo Tonti will be the honorary president ofthe event. Requests for participation are coming from Hungary, United States ofAmerica, Spain, Switzerland and France; nations like Korea, Japan,Germany, Australia and New Zealand, Argentina, Mexico, Chile, Ca-nada and Singapore have declared themselves interested in the parti-cipation (www.coppamondogelateria.it).

A new Bravobranch in Singa-pore opened a fewmonths ago, provi-ding South-EastAsian customerswith a brand new

reference point for purchase, service, training and demos. The Asian branch Gelato Specialists is a sales office and a spacewhere members of the Bravo Trittico® Club Team organise trai-ning days on gelato, pastry and chocolate. Furthermore, the spaceis fully equipped as a complete functioning workshop, within easyreach of professionals working in the Asian market. "I am very proud of Gelato Specialists – says Andrea Zanuso,Bravo export manager –. I was looking forward to having a solidbase in Asia, because we know that pastry and chocolate are gro-wing there, and we wish to provide our customers with a placewhere they can find the information and the help they may need toimprove their work and increase their success. We are doing agreat job there and now, thanks to this additional service, we willbe doing even better!".Gelato Specialists also has a new website – www.gelatospecia-lists.com – with information about the Clubs and all events takingplace in Singapore. The Bravo Trittico® Clubs are dedicated tothe gelato makers and pastry chefs wishing to improve their care-ers in the gourmet gelato and confectionery business(www.bravo.it).

Delicaded to gelato specialists

A.B. TECH EXPO 2010 IN MILAN

Gelato World Cup 2010

Stramondo has been producing fine qua-lity products for gelato makers and con-fectioners since 1940, and exporting allover the world. A love for the flavours andtastes of Sicily – already known for its ex-traordinary cuisine – has enticed the staffinto developing and promoting regionalnatural and characteristic flavours in ge-lato and pastry making. The company’s many years of experiencehave allowed to develop a very uniqueproduction system based on the winningcombination of key elements: the proces-sing methods using cutting edge machi-nery and expert professional staff, and theuse of the best local products whose na-turalness and distinctiveness are knownthroughout the international markets.The result of this triangular synergy – inno-vation, tradition and naturalness – is appa-rent in the fine quality products guaranteed by the rigorous qualitycontrol system Iso 9000 – and thanks to which the company is placedamongst the biggest producers of semi-processed goods for gelatoand pastry makers.Stramondo’s organic Bia range was developed to satisfy the need ofthe consumers concerned with the wholesomeness of the productsand the cultivation methods of the ingredients, and has also won nume-rous prizes and recognition. The search for flavour and the desire to sa-tisfy even the most demanding and unusual taste ensure continuingresearch and analysis of the changes (www.stramondo.com).

Fine products from Sicily

The simple and creative machine that you have always dreamt of.

Total control of the workmanships that allows in simple and immediate way to plan the type of desired biscuit.

Not only biscuits...

Display touch screen

The passion and the devotion to work of abm and its collaborators has simplified notably the use of the dropping machines for biscuits.Thanks in fact to the extreme simplicity and the easiness of the same, it allows to have a total control of the workmanships in only a few hours, even for a beginner.Our machine is exclusively gifted of components of quality, motorizations Siemens, Encoder Siko, inverter PLC and touch screen Mitsubischi. The use of the latter is important, as it brings the real images of the products and provides for an easy and fast insertion of the parameters, allowing the creation of every biscuit that your imagination suggests you.Try first hand the simplicity of the Drop. With our machine, the technological barriers are removed!

TF model for motorized wire-cut products

RIMINI - ITALY 17-21 January 2009HALL B1 - Stand 90

ABM srlVia dell’Industria, 4/A35040 Boara Pisani (PD) - ITALYTel. +39. 0425.48.52.02Fax [email protected]

DUSSELDORF - DE 3-9 October 2009

[email protected]

THE UNIQUE PLEASURE OF THE ORIGINAL

SFOGLIATELLA NAPOLETANA


Pop Corn Crok is the novelty by Elenka, an unusual gelato emphasi-zing the crackling taste of pop corn (www.elenka.it).

CRACKLING TASTE

Pop Corn Crok

milk L 1sugar g 210

dextrose g 40Dailycream

neutral Elenka g 150cream g 50

Pop Corn paste Elenka g 140Pop Corn topping Elenka q.b.

caramelized pop corn q.b.

Make a white base with milk, sugar, dextrose, cream and Dailycreambase. Weigh, incorporate Pop Corn paste and work in the gelato ma-chine. Decorate with Pop Corn topping and some pop corns previou-sly caramelized with dextrose and icing sugar.

As a producer of cake decora-tions with 30 years of experience,Alisei Decorazioni has alwaystried to innovate and satisfy thedemands coming from the marketand its customers (pastry shops,wholesalers and distributors inItaly, France, Spain, Switzerlandand Eastern European countries),ensuring the quality of productsand the “made in Italy” name. The range of items includes dyesfor confectioners (hydro, metali-zed and velvet), airbrush paints,ink-jet, thermoformats, Brillo andIvy ribbons, Sandy under cake rib-bons, plastic numbers used foranniversary celebrations, compo-sitions for religious ceremonies)and weddings. All of them areproduced by the company itselfwhich, thanks to a new businesspolicy and organization, has be-come a point of reference for themajor distributors in this field(www.aliseidecorazioni.it)

Cake decoration... and more

Verona (Italy), 22/26 May 2010The international exhibition dedicated to technologies,raw materials and semi-fi nished goods for productionof bread, pastry, pizza and pasta.

www.siabweb.com

SIAB 2010A new chapter for bakerySIAB turns a new leaf and returns better than ever for its ninth edition:

greater internationalisation, an even better offering and a closer focus

on business. Having been a landmark for bakery, pastry, confectionery,

pasta and pizza operators for more than 20 years, SIAB 2010 - thanks to

its 4 new specialist halls - will be a unique, not to be missed occasion for

meeting the reference market.

Organised by: In partnership with: Promoted by:

SIAB PASTICCERIA INT_ing.indd 1 16/07/09 14:24


The magnificent Palace of Venaria, just outside Turin, is home to the gourmetrestaurant Dolce Stil Novo of chef Alfredo Russo

The restaurant rooms – three square equal-sized halls in a row, closed by cloister vaultsand looking onto the Corte d'Onore – wererevamped by New York architects Max andLella Vinelli; conceptual design was placedin the hands of architects Carlo and AuroraFucini. It is an expanse of polished darkgreen marble, gilded leather sofas and around crystal table in the centre of the hall,satin-clad walls, marble tables on polishedsilver bases, and padded green leatherchairs. This space underlines our under-standing that we are in an exceptional loca-tion, and it is the ideal setting for Russo'scooking: innovative and personal yet deeplyrooted to Italian tradition, especially Pied-montese, with combinations that evoke acollective memory of sorts. His simple styleof cooking goes directly to the core, and isnot artificial; it is full of taste and is never de-tached from a ludic dimension, as the chefhimself tells us.

What is the philosophy behind yourwork?A search for the total well-being of theclient. We want to broaden the feeling of ho-spitality by speaking of cuisine and not onlyof cooking: people have to understand thatwe work with dedication, sacrifice, andabove all passion. The client has to remem-

ber his/her stay here as having been some-thing special, which is a combination of nu-merous factors, beginning with aprofessional albeit informal service.

How does one achieve excellence?By keeping things simple. My cooking ismodern, easy to understand and accessibleto all, as you can see by the simple andstraightforward menu that needs no inter-preter. After all, were it difficult to under-stand customers would have a reducedsense of overall well-being.

A respect for tradition, research and in-novation: how do you reconcile thethree?I do not see them as separate. Innovating ontradition – although I prefer to talk of me-mory – does not mean changing its nature –it means giving it back energy and power.Being modern, or contemporary, does notmean repudiating tradition in favour of pro-

A ROYAL TASTE

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gress; it means using tradition, improving it,and giving it a new lease of life. I am a mo-dern cook. I live in the present, and I wantmy cooking to be understood today and notin twenty years from now. Sometimes oneis ahead of the times: at the moment themenu has dishes we were making in 1991,such as our very popular ravioli of 'zampone’with lentils.

Zampone is a Christmas spe-

cialty made of spiced, salted

and minced pork meat and rind.

It is inserted in the swine fore-

leg and it takes its form.

What value do you give to purity of tasteand genuine flavours?Every dish is created starting from an ideathat I work on until obtaining the end result,which is always the product of a work ofsubtraction, rather than of addition. Our coo-king reflects our way of being. The searchfor pure taste goes back a long way. In1990 we did away with all brown bases, asilent yet important revolution. I was not in-terested in stabilising the flavour of a dish,rather I wanted to emphasise its peculiari-ties. I do not make mixtures of herbs or spi-ces, nor do I use 'soffritti' or too manyingredients; I give each flavour the freedomto emerge. The result is healthier and morenatural.

Tell us about your menu?It is a 'dynamic' menu with dishes changedon a daily basis depending on the freshnessand quality of the raw materials. For the ta-sting menu, by contrast, I ask the guest togive me 'carte blanche'.

And the sweets menus? They have the same structure as the tasting

menu, with the same playful approach.There are two menus, one of five and theother of three dishes, served as a surpriseand different every day. The element of sur-prise, which means we are not bound to tooprecise a framework, let us work with moreattention on the individual client.

What sweets are on the menu andwhich ones are the most popular? I have never noticed a preference; there is avery varied demand. In summer and winterwe have at least one chocolate dessert, oneor two cream and fruit based desserts, anda series of gelato and sorbets. The menu,for us, be it the dessert or savoury one, isonly an introduction, a work tool, the basicminimum that we can show to the client. Weprefer hors-menu, which is less limiting andmore seasonal, even if more difficult to ma-nage in certain contexts.

What is pre-dessert? A small fresh taste, usually fruit based, nevertoo saturated or heavy, in keeping with therest of the menu. It serves the same pur-pose as an appetizer, namely that a changeis taking place, and it introduces the sweetcourse.

Anything new?The small pastry trolley. Coinciding with thecoffee, we want to say goodbye to custo-mers with a wide selection of chocolates,bonbons, mini cakes, sugarcoated almonds,gelato, and sweets. The use of trolleys hasthe double benefit of gratifying the client andthe waiters, who can provide a service ra-ther than merely delivering dishes. Recentdevelopments in cooking have directed at-tention onto recipes and chefs, the restau-rant having taken a back seat. We want torestore all those little customs and gesturesthat used to be found in restaurants, but thathave now been lost.

Monica Onnis


Serves 8

fresh citrus fruit juice ml 500(orange, mandarin, pink grapefruit,

yellow grapefruit, lime) powder of agar agar g 2

vanilla sauce g 200strips of candied orange rinds a.r.

Pour a glass (about 150 ml) of citrus fruit juice into a pan, dissolve the ge-latine in this, mixing it with a small whisk, and bring to the boil keeping theflame to a minimum and stirring all the time. Having reached a boil, conti-nue to cook over a low heat for a while (depending on the instructionsgiven on the packet) and add the lot to the remaining juice. Pour the mix-ture into small silicon hemisphere moulds and place in the refrigerator fora few hours, until the citrus fruit gelatine hardens. When ready to serve,put the vanilla sauce in small concave dishes, on top of which place thecitrus fruit hemisphere and finish with the candied orange rinds or mixedcitrus fruits.

Citrus fruit imitation egg

Pasta with oil and Parmigiano cheese

Serves 6Lasagna

fresh pasta (with eggs) g 300extravirgin olive oil a.r.

salt a.r.Roll out the pasta thinly as with a classic lasagna and cut into rectan-gles. Briefly cook it in salted boiling water, drain and cool immediately inwater and ice. Let it drip and lay it out on a damp cloth on a baking-tinbrushed with oil. In an oiled oven-proof dish, alternate layers of pastawith layers of cooked cream. Then cut the lasagna into portions.

Parmigiano Moussefresh liquid cream ml 200

fresh whole milk ml 100grated Parmigiano Reggiano g 50

salt a.r.Heat the cream with the milk to 60°C and melt the Parmigiano in it. Addthe salt, pass through a fine sieve, pour the mixture in the siphon andload with two compressed air capsules.

Cooked creamfresh liquid cream ml 500

grated Parmigiano Reggiano g 150egg n. 3salt

Beat the eggs, add the Parmigiano and cream and beat again until youget a nice smooth mixture. Pour into two plum-cake silicon moulds of500 ml each and have it thicken in a vapour oven for 20 minutes at100°C. Alternatively, cook in a bain-marie in a traditional oven at 170°Cfor about half an hour. When cooking is finished, remove the cream fromthe oven and blast chill it.

Parmigiano pistachio crunchgrated Parmigiano Reggiano g 100

fresh shelled pistachios g 30Mix the cheese with the pistachio chopped not too finely, and make athin layer on a Silpat sheet; move to the preheated 220°C oven and bakefor a few minutes or until it starts to brown. Remove from the oven, let itcool, and break it into small fragments.

AssemblyWhen ready to serve, vapour heat the lasagna portions at 65°C for justover 5 minutes. Arrange each portion on hot plates and finish with theParmigiano mousse sprinkled with crunch and a drizzle of oil.

Alfredo Russowww.dolcestilnovo.com

www.lavenaria.it

Photos Paolo Cecchin


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Serves 4rabbit leg g 500

white onion g 100concentrated chicken stock cl 100

Moscato wine vinegar cl 25sugar g 30fennel g 50

bay-leaf no.2 leavesdill to taste

thyme to tastegarlic no.2 clovessage no.8 leaves

extra virgin olive oil to tastesalt and pepper to taste

De-bone the rabbit leg and cut it into pieces, roast in a panwith oil, thyme and bay-leaf, cook till done on a low heat,season with salt and pepper. While still hot, move into a ce-ramic baking dish.Slice the onion julienne and stew in extra virgin olive oil.Cut the fennel using a slicer and add it to the onion, adjustwith salt and pepper. Boil the stock with the vinegar, bay-leaf, thyme and sage. Cover the rabbit with part of the sourstock, pour the remaining one on the vegetables and letseason.Arrange the rabbit, cut into pieces and with dill, in glass cy-linders and cover with stock. Serve the vegetables aside,drained from the vinegar sauce.

Angora rabbit in Moscato

vinegar sauce

RECIPESFROM ICIF


Serves 4sugar g 150

chocolate g 130cream cl 5

“00” tender wheat flour g 75hazelnut g 60

potato starch g 75eggs no. 8

butter g 50Maraschino cl 2

glucose g 50cocoa powder g 3

salt g 1apricot jam to taste

For the saucemilk cl 18

cream cl 4“00” flour g 2

egg no. 1sugar g 40

hazelnut g 50vanilla pod to taste

Blend 40 g of hazelnuts into a flour, add starch, cocoa, flour and salt.Whip 320 g eggs, 60 g yolks with sugar, add the sifted flours and mel-ted butter. Pour into a cake-tin. Bake at 190°C for 25 minutes. Cool thecake on a grid and cut in halves. Separate the two disks and brushthem with the glucose and Maraschino syrup previously brought to aboil. Spread the jam on one disk. Melt 100 g of chocolate, add thecream and coat the disk surface. Reassemble the cake. Whip the eggs with the sugar and add the flour, mixing carefully. Addthe milk, previously brought to the boil with cream, vanilla, ground ha-zelnuts and cook till you have a cream.Spoon out the hazelnut cream in the plates, stain it with thinned outjam, garnish with the remaining chocolate flattened into sheets and 10g of hazelnuts.

ICIF

Costigliole d’Astiwww.icif.com

Photos Marco Beltramo

Gianduja cake


Cioccolatitaliani by Costa Group is an innovative format recently opened in Milan by Gio-vanni Ferrieri. It is a café, pastry shop and gelato shop at the same time, with a diversifiedmenu based on chocolate. It is the result of a team-working session gathering some leading personalities of the foodsector such as Franco Costa, Costa Group's president; Paolo Barichella, expert of fooddesign; Roberto Lobrano, gelato maker, and Silvio Bessone, chocolate maker. Furnishing enhances the communicative exigences of the brand, i.e. the choice of warmcolours hinting at the world of chocolate, the use of wood for flooring, the tables and ar-mchairs designed by Franco Costa. The structure of the premises relies on the modernconcept of show-cooking: the labs are in full view and clients can see all the phases ofthe making of gelato, chocolate, bakeryproducts and cuisine specialties.The stylish counter stands out at thevenue entrance and it includes a spacededicated to gelato, equipped with 20cylindrical stainless-steel tubs and twochocolate fountains; a wide showcasefor product display, and a coffee area. Cioccolatitaliani is a project with the am-bitious plan of expanding in the future notonly in Italy, with 5 new stores, but alsoin some European capitals and then inAmerica as well(www.cioccolatitaliani.it).

NE

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A new format for chocolate

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PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 15/2009

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Transcript of PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 15/2009