PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 14/2009

EDITORI10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

P A S T R Y B A K E R Y G E L A T O C U I S I N E

CHIRIOTTIissue fourteen-2009

CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY RECIPESFOR ANY SEASON

SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH

COFFEE AND CRUNCHY SWEETS

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

Almonds are in .novative

Bring a little crunch, a touch of class and a ton of creativity to every creation. Discover your inspiration in almonds.

The Almond Board of California is a partner of the World Pastry Cup 2009.

NEWS

Editor-in-chief Livia Chiriotti Senior Editor Emilia CoccoloChiriotti News editors Cristina Quaglia, Milena Novarinoand Monica Onnis Assistant editor Chiara CombaTranslations Alexander Martin Marketing editorGiuseppe Chiriotti Advertising director Luigi Voglino [email protected] Art director Studio Grafico Impagina

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition10064 Pinerolo (Torino) - viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 [email protected]

Pasticceria Internazionale - World Wide Edition is happilypublished in Italy by Chiriotti Editori and printed by Tipografia Giuseppini. Copyright 2008 by Chiriotti Editori. All rights reserved. No part of thismagazine may be reproduced without prior written permissionfrom the publishing house.Supplement of PasticceriaInternazionale n. 216 January 2009.

STAFF

Ready for the Coupe du Monde

de la Ptisserie 2009

A tribute to grand tradition

Two elegant shops in Italy

The strength, the technique,the accuracy

A fully integrated and traceable production chain

Dedicated to the CostieraAmalfitana

State-of-the-art machines

Ice in Vibo Valentia

A product of vegetable origin

Gelato in Tavola at Sigep

The International PtisserieGrand Prix 2009

Chocolate bento

High quality production

Bronze for the Culinary

Team Palermo

Salon du Chocolat

Professionnel in Paris

The right preservation

Biagios Awards

Identit Golose in Milan

Certified quality from Naples

Turin's Royal kitchens reopened

Sistema Gelato Italiano

A single origin chocolate

A complete range for baking and freezing

Introducing healthy eating habits

Base products for gelato

On our cover, Spiral of...(on page 30).

EDITORI10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]


CHIRIOTTIissue fourteen-2009

CHOCOLATE AND PASTRY RECIPESFOR ANY SEASON

SAVOURY SUGGESTIONS WITH AN ITALIAN TOUCH

COFFEE AND CRUNCHY SWEETS

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS


issue thirteen-2008

CHIRIOTTI

TUTTO GELATO!

GELATO WORLD CUPANOTHER VICTORY FOR ITALY

SWEET SICILY

CHOCOLATE HARMONIES

THE CHEF'S MAGIC

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

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www.pasticceriainternazionale.it

EDITORICHIRIOTTI

gennaio 2009

CIOCCOLATERIA CONFETTERIA GELATERIA GASTRONOMIA CONFEZIONAMENTO

ENG

LISH

EDITI

ON

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SITE

SINCE 1978THE MEETING POINT

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AERIAL EASTER 26

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MOGADOR

VEGETABLE chocolate bonbons

12VARIATIONSON A THEME

FIVE GENERATIONS of the Besuschio name

TRISCRUNCHY SWEETS

24 THE ITALIAN RECIPESat the WPTC 2008 29

SICILIAN DELIGHTS

38

40RECIPES

FROM THE ICIF

22

THE CHEF'S MAGIC

2www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

In Italy, Easter is a spring festival, eagerly awaited by adultsand children alike. Chocolate eggs containing small giftsallude to the ancient meaning of egg as a symbolic imageof regeneration. Every year pastry chefs work flat out tomeet the demand for chocolate eggs, colomba, and otherEaster specialties.Here eggs are pictured against a blue sky, thus recal-ling the idea of aerial lightness and spring atmo-spheres. But they also hint at ecology and at theconcept of environmental sustaina-bility (the ability of an ecosystem tomaintain ecological processes, func-tions, biodiversity and productivity intothe future). These themes are and willbe fully developed in PasticceriaInternazionale in Italian, from thepoint of view of sustainable pro-duction applied to confectioneryart. Shown here are some ima-ges of Easter expressedthrough the ability of fi-ve well-known Italianpastry chefs.

Aerial Easter

GrazianoGIOVANNINI

Luca MANNORI

FrancoRIZZATI

StefanoLAGHI

FabrizioCAMPLONE

3

in sculpted ice; a chocolate entremets with arti-stic piece in sugar.Congratulations to MOF Gabriel Paillasson,the founder of the international event, whocelebrates the 20th anniversary of the bien-nal competition (www.cmpatisserie.com).

The Italian team participating in the 20th Coupe duMonde de la Ptisserie in Lyons: from left, Alessan-dro Dalmasso, Domenico Longo and Giancarlo Corti-novis.

Ready for the Coupe du Monde de la Ptisserie 2009


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NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEW

The 2009 edition of the Coupe du Monde dela Ptisserie is held during the 14th edition ofSIRHA, Salon International de la Restaurationde lHtellerie et de lAlimentation in Lyon(France), from 24 to 28 January 2009.Holland, Brazil, USA, China, Finland, France,Spain, Poland, Morocco, Singapore, and Tunisiacompete on day one; South Korea, Belgium,Japan, Malaysia, Lebanon, Russia, Hungary,Taiwan, Argentina, Mexico, and Italy on daytwo. Yuko Ichikawa is the designated presidentof the international jury, with Pierre Herm ashonorary president.The Italian team includes AlessandroDalmasso, Domenico Longo and GiancarloCortinovis; Luigi Biasetto stands in as presi-dent, with the Italian Club of the Coupe duMonde.The regulations state that each team must pre-sent a plated dessert made with national ingre-dients backed by artistic presentation in choco-late; a fruit gelato entremets with artistic work


NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS

As a partner of the 2009 World Pastry Cup, the Almond Board ofCalifornia pays tribute to the grand tradition of classic almondpastry arts still used today to create tomorrows on-trend innova-tions in Lyon, France. It is the first year almonds are featured inthe competition: two of the four competition categories the fro-zen fruit dessert and the plated chocolate dessert require theuse of California almonds.In celebrating the 20th anniversary of this world-class competi-tion, thirty of the most acclaimed ptisiers in the world, all pre-vious winners of the competition, gathered to create a recipe thatrepresents the spirit of the contest and includes the latest trends(www.almondsarein.com).

A tribute to grand tradition

La Buvette in Sora, near Frosinone, is apastry shop and caf of 110 sq meters de-signed by Costa Group. The confectioneryarea is furnished with a counter made ofcement and iroko wood, with a glassshowcase for chocolate bonbons. A bigwhite chandelier dominates this area andthe back counter made of grey MD isequipped with lighted shelves. A specialpeninsula is dedicated to gelato.The black and white graphics on the wallsdraw on the image of an old village, the pictures having been taken from a book written by the owne-r's father about Sora village. The caf area is furnished with a big black chandelier and a modern counter with aluminium panels,lighted from the bottom. It is divided into two parts, one with a white Corian top and the other with aglass window. The refreshing area is cosy the tables have white glass tops, the chairs and sofas arewhite, light lilac and beige. The dehor is coloured, with white chairs and confortable sofas, surroundedby pink floral graphics.Maccallis gelato and confectionery shop in Covo, near Bergamo, modernized his look and expandedhis laboratory. Now the shop has 240 seats and includes 6 rooms, each of them differently designedand furnished by Costa Group. The entrance has a wood ceiling with beams, a wooden floor, and auto-matic doors. It leads to the gelato zone with a choice of 36 flavours. The gelato counter is connectedto the bar counter, which has a frontal with brick in melted aluminium; the top counter in white sha-ped Corian has stools in crumpled sheet aluminium. In the wide cyclamen-coloured room there are white sofas and chandeliers; the Indian room is furnis-

hed with a big table in Indianteak, a red chandelier withcrystals and a round table, sur-rounded by dark brown chairsdecorated with brilliant sto-nes; the wall is covered withgold leaf. In the tea room the-re are white chairs, old photo-graphs and a wall made up ofwashers of wood trunks. Thisspacious shop has also a de-hor, enriched with graphics onthe walls(www.costagroup.net).

Eurovo has built an organisationthat covers all phases of a fully in-tegrated and traceable productionchain: from hen husbandry tochicks, from the direct production offeed to the monitoring of the finis-hed product. This is done with thesupport of high-tech equipment, ensuring on-going qualityand very high flexibility.Feed is produced directly by the feed plants of the Eurovosupply chain and is entirely aimed at the nutrition of layinghens bred in different systems (in a cage, on the ground, in theopen air and in organic agriculture breeding establishments),according to the market's various demands, to guarantee adaily supply of over 8,000,000 eggs.Quality control meets ISO 9001:2000 and HACCP hygienic-sa-nitary standards; the Kat, BRC, Kosher, Kashrut and Halal certi-ficate for the production of organic agriculture.The large scale production capacity and the widespread distri-bution network ensure that orders of everguaranteed, ever-fresh products are filled within 24 hours. The variety of pro-ducts, fresh eggs and egg products (refrigerated pasteurized,deep frozen pasteurized, in powder, criofrozen and liotis) im-plies constant, daily endeavour by the whole production chain. Eurovo Service's supply range has broadened with the addi-tion of Whole Egg, Egg Yolk and Egg White, obtainedthrough organic agriculture (www.eurovo.com).

A fully integrated and traceable production chainGelateria Maccalli

La Buvette.

Thanks to the extensive expertise of the companys founders, Rollmatic capitalized over 40years of experience in the confectionery and bakery sectors.Commitment to research and innovation, use of state-of-the-art machinery, top processingtechniques, and use of the best components available on the market, have enabled the com-pany to be known worldwide thanks to the high-quality and reliability of its machinery, whichare ranked medium-high.The engineering stage relies on advanced 3D design to simulate the process of machines underdevelopment, thus providing a solution to possible criticality right from the start of the project.Technology, in-depth knowledge of the process and respect of craftsmanship combine to makeRollmatic machines technologically advanced and respectful of tradition.The idea of the strength of a bull inspires the line of Bull planetary mixes, with their smoothand elegant design. The extensive range of models ranges from capacities varying from 10 to160 litres, and the tank can be resized in models up to 60 litres. The line of Roll sheeters inclu-des more than 20 models, starting from the simplest right to the most sophisticated and pro-grammable machines. The range of Samurai cutters is named after the historical Japanesewarriors and their famous Katana, which embodies power and cutting accuracy. The Samuraicutters are built in full accordance with the European safety norms (www.rollmatic.com).

The strength, the technique,the accuracy

Two elegant shops in Italy

i n t ro d u ces its Flex i p a n N ew Shapes

Demarle S.A.S . Parc dactivits des Ansereuilles . 59136 WAVRIN . France . Tel: +33 (0)3 20 58 83 84 . Fax: +33 (0)3 20 58 74 70E-mail : [email protected] - Website: www.demarle.com

Oblong Cake120 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm

Volume 100 ml

Ingot with a cavity120 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm

Volume 90 ml

Half-Cylinder85 x 17 mm Depth 15 mm

Volume 20 ml

Mini-quenelle 42 x 22 mm Prof. 17 mmRef. FP 1150

Medium Quenelle Ref. FP 1152 GN1/1

67 x 36 mm Prof. 27 mm

QuenelleRef. FP 1154 GN1/1

84 x 44 mm Prof. 35 mm

Savarin Saphir 70 x 70 mm Depth 32 mm

Volume 80 ml

Mini-drop52 x 32 mm Depth 20 mmVolume 18 ml

Cutter forMini-Drop shapesRef. DEC 1144

The cutter for Saphir shape Ref. DEC 1124 is available

Small Ingot with a cavity100 x 40 mm Depth 25 mm

Volume 70 ml

An Exoglass cutter Ref. MMA 150214 has been developped to cut your pastry dough to fit perfectly the SSpoon shape Ref. SSF 1127.

Silform Spoon shape

Mini Hearts41 x 38 mm Depth 16 mm

Volume 15 ml

The Silform for Bread SSF 4394 is part of the Silform range especiallydevelopped for bread loaves for catering.The Silform Mini Charlotte ref. SF 1071 is part of the Silform

tartlets range. They will allow you to produce perfect tartlets bases.

90 x 28 mm Depth 12 mm-600 x 400 mm Ref. SSF 112736 indents-400 x 300 mm Ref. SSF 212718 indents

Silform Range

Ref. FP 1144

Ref. FP 1136

The cutter for Ingot shape Ref. DEC 1148 is available

Cutter forMini-HeartshapesRef. DEC 1136


Chocolate Sponge

tpt g 300invert sugar g 10

fresh eggs g 100+100 0-B flour g 10

potato starch g 10cocoa powder 10-12 g 20

butter g 30pasteurized egg whites g 140

sugar g 20

Begin by beating the tpt with the invert sugar and the first partof the eggs; add the other eggs a little at a time, followed bythe other ingredients until you get a soft texture (it takes aboutten minutes). Weigh out 600 g of mixture per baking tin andbake on Silpat in a 250C ventilated oven, valve open, forabout nine minutes. Remove from the mould and cool. Keep inthe freezer until required.

Chocolate 70% mousse with syrup

syrup 30B g 120pasteurized egg yolks g 60

chocolate 70% g 160cream 35% g 100

medium-thick cream g 250

Boil the syrup and pour over the egg yolks, beating until it getsto 42C. Melt the chocolate at 45C, and make a classic emul-sion by adding the first part of hot cream to the chocolate;bring it back to 40C, mix delicately to the whipped mass andlighten with the medium thick cream. Pour immediately.

Mogador tea bavaroise

Mogador tea g 25 cream 35% m.g. g 500

pasteurized egg yolks g 450 sugar g 140

gelatine g 30water g 150

mint liqueur g 60medium-thick cream g 1,350

Heat the cream to 80C and brew the tea in it for about 4 mi-nutes; filter and press down well; blanch the sugar with theegg yolks, add the cream and cook at 85C. Add the softenedgelatine and emulsify the lot; let it cool. Add the mint liqueurand lighten with the medium-thick cream.

Neutral icing

neutral gelatine for glazing g 1000butterwater g 25

liposoluble colour g 1

Heat the water, add the sprayed butter and mix with the gelati-ne. Heat to 38C, emulsify and add the colour.

Assembly Once the sponge has been prepared, make a chocolate mous-se, pour in Flexipan moulds and blast chill. Assemble in rever-se order in moulds lined with acetate: on the bottom place thedehydrated mint leaves and pour in the mint bavaroise; addthe frozen interior, close with the sponge, level off and makeeven; blast chill until ready for serving. Remove from themould and glaze with neutral mint-flavoured gelatine; decoratewith mint leaves and personal chocolate stamp.

Luca MannoriPasticceria Mannori, Prato

www.mannoriespace.itPhoto Bononi

MOGADOR

NUTRITIONAL VALUES FOR 100 g

carbohydrates 23.82fats 21.3 sugars 0.97kJ 1297.46calories 306.80

TPT (Tantum Per Tantum) refers to a mixture of crushed almondswith an equal quantity of caster sugar or saccharose.


Pastry chef Ugo Mignone of Naples presents a series of original bonbon recipes that usegreens aubergines, carrots, courgettes, and dried tomatoes as distinguishing ingre-dients, thus creating unusual combinations with chocolate. Their names come from the dia-lect spoken in Neaples.They are presented by a greengrocer Punchinello made entirely by hand using 20 kg ofdark, milk, and white chocolate. Mignone has taken about five months to come up with thefinished show piece, working mainly in the evening after long hours in his pastry shop.

VEGETABLE chocolate bonbons

A MulignanaAubergine chocolate bonbon

cream g 300invert sugar g 70

glucose g 30 dark chocolate 70% g 500

fried aubergines g 150crushed and toasted cocoa g 20

sorbitol g 24

Boil the cream and glucose; add the invert sugar and pour overthe dark chocolate. Add the aubergines, fried and dried usingblotting paper, and finally the toasted cocoa and sorbitol. Pourthe mixture into a mould lined with bronze-sprayed dark choco-late. Allow it to crystallize; cover and remove from mould.

A PastenacaCarrot chocolate bonbon

cream g 300glucose g 40 saffron a.r.

grated carrots g 60invert sugar g 40

dark chocolate g 600butter g 50

Mycryo cocoa butter g 20

Bring the cream, glucose, saffron, and grated carrots to a boil. Letit stand for 2 minutes. Add the invert sugar and pour over thepre-crystallized chocolate. Add in the softened butter and theMycryo. Pour into a mould covered with silver-sprayed milk cho-colate.

O CucuzzielloCourgette chocolate bonbon

cream g 600green tea g 20

fresh mint leaf g 2glucose g 40

steamed courgettes g 50dark chocolate g 500

honey g 40butter g 50

Bring the cream, glucose, green tea, and mint leaf to a boil. Let itstand for 5 minutes. Pass through the sieve and add the honey,butter, and courgettes. Mix and pour over the tempered chocola-te. Pour into moulds lined with ruby-red coloured dark chocolate70%. Allow it to crystallize; cover and remove from mould.

OMA

NAPOLI

BARI

LAQUILA

CAMPOBASSO

POTENZA

CATANZARO

MINORISORRENTO

FIRENZE

REGGIO

TORINO

MILANO VENEZIA

UDINE

BOLOGNA

ROMA

NAPOLI

BARI

CAGLIARI

GENOVA

TRENTO

PERUGIA

ANCONA

LAQUILA

CAMPOBASSO

POTENZA

CATANZARO

PALERMO

TRIESTE

CATANIA

PRATO

PADOVA

SIRACUSA

RAPALLO

CUNEO

RIMINI

SANSEPOLCRO

PINEROLO PIACENZA

SENIGALLIA

ALBA

SAVIGNO

SOTTOMARINAASTI

TORREPELLICE

COSTIGLIOLEDASTI

CORTINA DAMPEZZO

MINORISORRENTO

CASTELBUONO

NOTO

ABBIATEGRASSO

PULCINELLAPulcinella, called Punch or Punchinello in English, is a character that originated inthe Italian Commedia dell'arte of the 17th century, and became a famous characterin Neapolitan puppetry. His main physical characteristic is his extremely long no-se, which resembles a beak, and hes always white dressed and black masked(hence conciliating the opposites of life and death). He has become an archetypeof humanity with all its complexities and contradictions.

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com9

A PummarolaDried tomato chocolate bonbon

raspberry puree g 300saccharose g 80

cream g 150honey g 70

dark chocolate 70% g 600butter g 50

dried tomatoes g 80

Boil the saccharose and raspberry puree for a few minutes. Bringthe cream to a boil. Mix everything together and pour over the fi-nely chopped chocolate. Add the honey, butter and dried tomatoes(chopped). Pour into a round Flexipan mould. Let it harden, thencover with dark chocolate 70%.

Ugo MignonePasticceria Mignone, Naples

Dolci del Sole is the title of the new book in Italian by pastry chefSalvatore De Riso published for Rizzoli (www.rizzoli.eu): 255 pageswith more than 60 recipes, sweet and savoury, that are a declaration oflove for Mediterranean ingredients such as citrus fruits, fresh and driedfruits, vegetables, cheeses and olive oils. A real collection of ideas, verywell illustrated, which representthe long career of this pastrychef, starting from 1988 withthe lemon profiteroles. The book also looks into the hi-story and geographical originsof the De Riso family, thanks al-so to the many b-w and coloredpictures.For more information about theauthor, www.deriso.it.

Dedicated to theCostiera Amalfitana

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Gelato in Tavola at SigepThis January, the Italian gelato makers union Co.Gel-Fipe and the international gelato and confectionaryfair Sigep organize the 4th edition of the internatio-nal Enzo Vannozzi Trofeo Gelato in Tavola. Cooksand gelato makers from all over the world compete in creating three-course menusthat must include something 'hot' combined with a 'gelato'.Argentina, Brazil, France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Hungary, and the USA are the nationsparticipating in the competition. The eight competing teams include three memberseach, in addition to a president with right of vote, who is part of the technical jurypresided over by Mauro Petrini. Paolo Marchi, founder of Identit Golose - is presi-dent of the five-member press jury (www.gelatointavola.it).

Meant for confectioners and gelatomakers, Hopl Pi by Cooperlat is aproduct of fully vegetable origin, verysimilar to natural liquid cream. It isavailable in one-litre packs and suita-ble for making cakes, gelato cakesand other specialties. It can be usedalone as topping and filling or combi-ned with other flavours to obtainmousses, tiramis, etc.Its final output is high and it can bestored at room temperature for 24hours. It can also be successfully fro-zen and thawed and does not contain hydrogenated fats. Hopl Pi canbe mixed with flavouring products such as cocoa, vanilla, hazelnut paste,coffee, fruit, eggs, yogurt and liqueurs. It can be frozen as plain cream orcombined with fresh cream. Hopl Pi is a low-fat product, which can be used as base for fruit-fla-voured gelato. It is also available without sugar and is suitable for bothprofessional and domestic use (www.cooperlat.it).

A product of vegetable origin

The chocolate makers of La Molina from Quarrata, nearPistoia, have recently launched three small take-away bags si-milar to the Japanese bento baskets.They are three packets for breakfast, lunch and dinner in a dayentirely devoted to chocolate, or for three days with a singlechocolate meal for each (www.lamolina.it).

Chocolate bento

With its latest, state-of-the-artcreations TeknoStamap meetsthe new requests of the market. Inall the Autosmart 7000 modelsthe user friendly touch screen withits smart software makes pro-gramming a snap. It is possible toset 50 working programs and linktogether several laminating cyclesin a sequence. Sequential programming offers the possibility of setting starts,stops, increase and decrease of the roller gap to meet specific needs withoutmanual operation. The new automatic flour duster and the stress free doughwinder further reduce working time. Starting from medium productions up to in-dustrial needs, these machines are a reliable and effective aid.Autosmarts special features are: variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120cm/sec; 8" color touch-screen; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour dusterwith adjustable flour quantity. Optional accessories include dough width control;cutting device with rollers and variable speed.With its rollers of 123 mm diameter, Autosmart 123 can handle very hard doughand get the thinnest sheets. Auto 123 is available with 700 mm or 800 mm con-veyor width, to work larger dough blocks with almost no limits of weight.Its special features are: rollers positioning with vertical drive; lamination rollers123 mm of diameter; variable speed of the belts from 20 to 120 cm/sec ; colortouchscreen 8; dough reeler with stress-free system; flour duster with adjusta-ble flour quantity. Optional accessories include dough width control and a cut-ting device with rollers and variable speed (www.teknostamap.com).

State-of-the-art machines

Imagine, draw and car-ve this is the slogan ofa new school recentlyopened in Calabria, in thecity of Vibo Valentia.Cristal Ice has been founded by GiuseppeMandaradoni and is intended for professionals wis-hing to learn the techniques of ice sculpture and car-ving (www.associazionecristalice.it).

Ice carving in Vibo Valentia

The International PtisserieGrand Prix 2009 will take pla-ce in Japan, Tokyo, at Meets PortJCB Hall of Tokyo Dome City, on14 and 15 March. The contestwill involve national teams ofthree members each, from allover the world. The regulations state that eachteam must develop the themeof Ecology through a sugar and a chocolate showpiece, a plated dessert, an entremets glac, an entremets, twotypes of chocolate bonbons, a gteaux de voyage, five types of petits gteaux. The winners will be awarded a prizein money (7,500,000 yen), a gold medal and a trophy.The Italian team includes Fabrizio Galla, Gennaro Volpe and Andrea Zanin; Iginio Massari is their trainer.

The International Ptisserie Grand Prix 2009

Galla VolpeZanin

12

butter g 450 caster sugar g 200invert sugar g 75

egg yolks g 400whole eggs g 250

dark chocolate 55% g 650anhydrous butter oil g 50

egg whites g 500caster sugar g 250

almond powder g 500flour g 250

baking powder g 10

Whisk butter with caster and invert sugar, slowly add the egg yolksand whole eggs. Melt the dark chocolate at 35C, add the butter

SACHERSOUP

VARIATIONS ON A THEME

oil and pour into the whisked mixture. Then lighten themixture by alternately adding the egg whites whisked toge-ther with sugar, and the sieved powders. Spread to 1 cmthick, bake at 160C for approx. 8-12 minutes. Cool in ablast chiller. Cut Sacher biscuit into 1x1 cm cubes, heat afrying pan, melt a knob of butter with some cane sugar,add the Sacher cubes and stir. Use straight away.

Soft apricots with vanilla and unpeeled almonds

water g 600caster sugar g 150vanilla bean no 1

sliced apricots g 1.000 almonds (unpeeled

and slightly chopped) g 175

Bring water with sugar and vanilla bean to a boil and pourover the apricots and almonds. Refrigerate in an airtightcontainer, leave for at least 24 hours before use.

Chocolate gelato

fresh full-fat milk L 1 egg yolks g 60

caster sugar g 100dextrose g 150

chocolate 64% g 400table salt g 1

Heat egg yolks with milk. Combine sugar with dextrose andadd to the milk. Cook in a microwave oven at 82-85C,add diced chocolate and salt. Blend for 5 minutes. Cool ina blast chiller. Place in the ice cream maker, then store at -18C.

AssemblyPut the apricots into the stone container, bake at 180Cfor approx. 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped almonds,then add the hot Sacher cubes. Serve with dark chocolategelato.

Leonardo Di Carlo www.leonardodicarlo.com

Photo Giancarlo Bononi


13

Sacher biscuit

butter g 375chocolate 62% g 350

invert sugar g 50egg yolks g 180

biscuit sugar g 160cocoa 10-12 g 40

egg whites g 270sugar g 350

Beat the butter with the melted chocolate to 40C, the temperedegg yolks and the invert sugar. With a spatula add the siftedpowders and beaten egg whites with the sugar. Roll out to 1 cmthickness and bake at 200C. Remove from the oven, turn over,and cool on a grille.

Apricot compote

ripe apricots g 600 sugar g 300

apricot pulp g 900 sugar g 300

pectin g 15lemon juice g 20

gelatine sheets g 20

Cook the apricots in cubes with the sugar. Mix the sugar, pectinand pulp, and bring to the boil. Add the lemon juice, cookedapricots and softened gelatine. Roll out and blast chill.

Chocolate mousse 62%

milk g 500chocolate 62% g 1000

cream g 600

Bring the milk to 80C and pour over thechopped chocolate. Emulsify in themixer. At 34C stir in the whippedcream and use immediately.

A SACHERPETITDark chocolate ganache 62%

milk g 500cream g 500

glucose g 300 chocolate 62% g 850

butter g 250

Bring to a boil the milk with the cream, add the glucose andpour over the chopped chocolate in the mixer and emulsify withthe softened butter. Use or store at 4C.

Assembly and decorationAssemble the sweet in reverse order (in 30x20 cm moulds) onacetate sheets in the following order: dark chocolate ganache,biscuit, mousse, mixture and biscuit, ganache, biscuit. Press andblast chill. Cut into square portions and cover with chocolateicing. Finish with semicandied apricots and small gold chocolatebars.

NotesA petit gteau format for a Viennese sweet that has conqueredthe entire world. At the moment of tasting it is interesting to dis-cover the alternation of dark chocolate in three consistencies:biscuit, ganache, and mousse. Suggested beverage Calvados, coffee, Port.

Nutritional values for 100 g

proteins 4.9lipids 22.93

carbohydrates 69.18calories 480

Riccardo MagniPhoto Mario Spreafico




Research and innovation: Roboqbo presents some innovations characterizedby a high technological content, directly related to the well known UniversalCutters QBO. It is a unique tool for kneading, emulsifying, mincing, grindingand cooking up to 120 C. It also makes concentrates, and it enables vacuumsealing and blast chilling, resulting in an infinite number of recipes.Through the QBO line, Roboqbo introduces an innovative software which ma-nages all production phases. It monitors in real time all cooking and coolingdiagrams for traceability purposes. The user can watch on the monitor all thedata related to production cost and energy consumption for each recipe orprocess. Moreover, this software transmits data to the technical departmentfor assistance and emergency recovery purposes.Based in Bologna, and on the market for 30 years, Roboqbo is always trying toimprove energy savings. Thanks to the new heating technology, the machineachieves the same results with lower energy consumption.Universal Cutters QBO makes recipes of intense fragrance, colours and fla-vours, developed for very short cooking periods, therefore guaranteeing qua-lity and preservation of organoleptic properties of the ingredients processed.They are available in different bowl capacity and are made of stainless steelAISI 316L, therefore guaranteeing the health of the products processed.Clients are given the additional option of an exclusive 3-year guarantee cove-ring any kind of special assistance (www.roboqbo.com).

High quality productionIrinox presents the in-novative and versatilepreservation system CpMulti, which can be cu-stomized according tothe type of production,season and individualneeds.

It can be positive (0/15C), for extremely delicate products that are difficult topreserve; negative (0/-35), to create a stock with guaranteed temperaturestability; chocolate (14/15C), when production is intense and products must beheld at very low humidity levels and a constant temperature. Moreover, Irinoxsoftware is customizable on the basis of the required production standards. The air management system and humidity management system make it possi-ble to set and adjust temperature and humidity in the holding cabinet, ensuringmaximum uniformity and the right ventilation at any chosen level. It is very important that the holding cabinet is completely bacteria-free and to-tally healthy, and for this reason Sanigen, a complete air sanitation system, isalso included, avoiding the mixing of flavours and keeping the original scentsand aromas. Cp Multi ensures considerable energy savings (-30/40%), due to the optimizedmanagement of the multi compressors and fans that work alternately to main-tain constant temperature. The higher power of compressors makes it possibleto recover temperaturerapidly every time thedoor is opened.Irinox new holding ca-binets have a solidstainless steel construc-tion, with CE and elec-trical safety certificationto current standards.Numerous technologi-cal improvements havebeen adopted, such asthe ergonomic handle,Irinox-made hinges, in-terior illumination byLED and many other details (www.irinox.com).

The right preservation

The Culinary Team Palermo of the Associazione ProvincialeCuochi e Pasticcieri won the bronze medal at the CookingOlympiad of Erfurt, Germany, in which more than one thou-sand one hundred cooks from fifty-three nations took part. The team from Sicily wanted to pay tribute to dance and tothe huge repertory of classical ballet. 'I am satisfied with theresult obtained,' says Giuseppe Giuliano, president of theassociation and team coach, 'especially when you considerthe global importance of the Olympiad and how ours wasthe only team from the province of Palermo to participate ina joint effort with the Unione Regionale Cuochi. My congra-tulations to the lads for their team effort and commitment.(www,cuochipalermo.it)

Bronze for the Culinary Team Palermo

Biagio Settepanis Pasticceria Bruno(www.pasticceriabruno.com) in New York was ce-lebrated by the magazine Modern Baking as thebest 2008 pastry shop in the Usa. Biagios story wastold in a long article, starting from his arrival in NewYork from his native Sicily, and casually finding a jobin a confectionery shop. Today he runs his successfulshops in Greenwich Village, Manhattan, and StatenIsland, with his wife Pina and his childrenSalvatore, Fina and Joseph. He has a long careerin the field of international competitions and alsoteaches in professional schools.In November Settepani came to Italy for theAccademia Maestri Pasticceri Italianis annualpublic meeting. He was awarded a special price forhis personal commitment to spreading Italian pastryart abroad. He was made honorary member of AMPIduring the official ceremony in Verona.

Biagios Awards

From left, Gianni Pina (president of AMPI), Biagio Settepaniand Iginio Massari.

The Salon du Chocolat Professionnel will take place from 14th to the 16thOctober in Paris, showing the trends in the sector of chocolate packaging, equipmentand raw materials. The international show which will involve processers, manufactu-rers, distributors and chocolatiers will take place alongside its sister show, the Salondu Chocolat, i.e. the consumer chocolate show (www.salonduchocolat.fr). Over 100 exhibitors and 11,000 visitors from all over the worldwill be visiting the event and many events will take place, in-cluding seminars and the World Chocolate Masters - WorldFinals, organized by Barry Callebaut(www.worldchocolatemasters.com), which is the internatio-nal competition devoted to the creative use of chocolate in allits applications (www.salonduchocolatprofessionnel.com).

Salon du ChocolatProfessionnel in Paris


The PasticceriaBesuschio, todayheaded by Andrea,has been in the centre of Abbiategrasso since 1845. Here past and future are a winning combination

Abbiategrasso is well worth a visit. This small town located bet-ween the River Ticino and the Naviglio Grande is just twenty ki-lometres from Milan; it is a small jewel preserved by time. Theold part with its square dating to the Middle Ages, the CastelloVisconteo dating to 1200, and the Santa Maria Nuova complex,comprising a church with its beautiful Renaissance four-sidedportico and the Convento dell'Annunciata with frescos from the15th century, are in no way inferior to the monuments found inmore famous cities. Another good reason to visit is the Pasticceria Besuschio, notonly to taste delicious sweets, the local 'pagnotta di Fra' withyellow flour, honey, and figs, the 'Porfido' plum cake with cocoaseed flour, the aromatic Mitsukami Cake with hazelnut, carda-mom and lemon rind infusion with a gianduia stick inside, andother innovative products. In addition to satisfying the palate,the confectioner's is also worth a visit for the snippet of historythat its walls contain. The shop, located beneath the porticos ofPiazza Marconi in a building dating to the 15th and 16th centu-

FIVE GENERATIONS of the Besuschio name

ries, represents more than 150 years of family business, foun-ded by Ambrogio Besuschio back in 1845. Today the companyis in its fifth generation and is managed by Andrea.

A BUSY WORKSHOPIn total there are four workshops. In the first workshop there arerefrigerators for storing products, and the blast chiller. Andrea iskeen to specify, 'the various product categories, such ascreams, doughs, fruit, and chocolate decorations, are kept sepa-rate for reasons of hygiene. This more careful organization wasintroduced by me twenty years ago' .In a second more 'historical' workshop, the doughs are made.This is where the old family oven is located: 'It is more than sixtyyears old and is built with more than sixty thousand bricks agedin water. It is an immense structure on two levels (you get to thesecond level with a small ladder) capable of containing a total of36 70x40 cm plates. It is a static oven that bakes uniformly andis less aggressive than conventional ventilated ovens,' explainsthe owner. 'It is always turned on at around 150C, which ex-plains our non-aggressive baking. Over the years the oven hasbeen modified, partly to keep in line with current safety norms.Today it is gas fired, but originally it used wood, then carbon,and later gas oil.' Positioned behind the oven burner is a small dough-risingchamber, with peak areas of 40C, which makes use of the heat.'The ideal for decrystallizing chocolate without resorting to tanksor microwaves is to keep spay guns always ready, the samegoes for colours and cocoa butter'.The third workshop is for the preparation of gelato bases (nextto the shop there is also a gelato parlour, open during summer),doughs, and classical cake assemblies for the refrigerated coun-ter. Chocolate is processed in a separate fourth laboratory.

Pasticceria Besuschio in one historical photo of the early 20th century, and the shop front today.

www.pasticceriainternazionale.com17

The San Bernardino roof tile, designed by Besuschio in 1987 to remember the renovation of the old church ofAbbiategrasso.

Revised jam tart: recomposed shortcrust pastrywith gianduia, gianduia mousse with cardamom infusion and apricot jam.

Biegrasot: small slabs with gianduia filling, infusionof Jamaica pepper and almond brittle.

REGGIO

TORINO

MILANO VENEZIA

BOLOGNAGENOVA

TRENTO

PRATO

PADOVA

RAPALLO

CUNEO

RIM

SANSEPOLCRO

PIACENZAALBA

SAVIGNO

SOTTOMARASTI

COSTIGLIOLEDASTI

CORTINA DAMPEZZO

ABBIATEGRASSO

FIRENZE

REGGIO

TORINO

MILANO VENEZIA

UDINE

BOLOGNA

ROMA

NAPOLI

BARI

CAGLIARI

GENOVA

TRENTO

PERUGIA

ANCONA

LAQUILA

CAMPOBASSO

POTENZA

CATANZARO

PALERMO

TRIESTE

CATANIA

PRATO

PADOVA

SIRACUSA

RAPALLO

CUNEO

RIMINI

SANSEPOLCRO

PINEROLO PIACENZA

SENIGALLIA

ALBA

SAVIGNO

SOTTOMARINAASTI

TORREPELLICE

COSTIGLIOLEDASTI

CORTINA DAMPEZZO

MINORISORRENTO

CASTELBUONO

NOTO

ABBIATEGRASSO

A

B

C


HATS OFF TO RATIONALITYWe asked Andrea how he runs productionwhich, in addition to the sweets on sale inthe shop, also caters for weddings (aboutone a day in peak season), receptions, andevents. "First of all, production must be ra-tionalized with well organized spaces. Onlyin this way you can provide consistent le-vels of high quality production. Rationalization becomes even more diffi-cult when you are dealing with fresh pro-ducts, but the confectioner manages themusing identification codes and a FIFO (firstin first out) approach. 'Praline making is al-so demanding from this point of view,bearing in mind that it does not make useof deep-freezing. I have always used thehighest quality materials, and the most ar-tisanal, preservative-free products availa-ble. This is why in the refrigerators I subdi-vide the pralines according to their dura-tion, so that I can keep them under moreeffective control'.

PRODUCT DIVERSIFICATIONUpon returning to the shop we look morecarefully at the window display and realisejust how diversified production is. Butwhat is even more striking is the equallydiversified packaging, which Roberta(Andrea's wife) takes care of. She even ca-me up with the idea for the company logomade with the letters of the Besuschio na-

me. Making innovative packaging, diffe-rent to what the rest of the market offers,presents difficulties for a small businesssuch as this: "You have to turn to compa-nies that manufacture industrial quantities.If you keep changing the type of packa-ging, you need a lot of storage space, notto mention the financial outlay'.

Rossella Contato

From left, almond mousse with praline cremeux, lemon zest, apricot jam, crunchy pearls and light pistachio cream. Three chocolate mousses with dark gianduia puff pastry. Africa Mia cocoa streuzel.Almond streuzel monoportions with light pistachio mousse.

Plunk pistachio

caster sugar g 200almond flour g 200

flour g 200caster sugar g 20

yeast g 20pistachio paste g 280

butter g 200egg whites g 640

Use a spatula to mix the caster sugar, almond flour, flour, yeast, pi-stachio paste, and soft butter. Whisk the egg whites and incorpo-rate delicately into the mixture. Pour into buttered moulds sprin-kled with flour. Insert the melted ganache from the oven.

Pistachio passion cremeux

passion fruit pulp g 100gelatine g 8

pistachio paste 70% g 700passion fruit pulp g 350

Soften the gelatine in plenty of water. Bring to a boil the 100 g ofpassion fruit pulp, add in the gelatine and create a first emulsionover the pistachio paste. Heat the remaining 350 g of passion fruitpulp and complete the emulsion without incorporating air. Coverthe mixture with film, place in the refrigerator and use the day af-ter.

Passion fruit liquid centre

chocolate extra noire 53% g 500passion fruit pulp g 500

invert sugar g 40corn flour g 24

Melt the chocolate, add the passion fruit pulp, invert sugar, andcorn flour; heat. Pour the mixture on three occasions over the

melted chocolate to create an emulsion. Pour into 5 cm dia-meter moulds and place in the freezer.

Pasticceria BesuschioAbbiategrasso, Mi

www.pasticceriabesuschio.itPhotos Giancarlo Bononi

PLUNK PPC CHOCOLATE PISTACCHIO PASSION

EW

SN

EW

SN

EW

SN

EW

SN

EW

SN

EW

S

NEWSNEWSNEWSNEWSNEWS

The fifth edition ofIdentit Golose, theItalian congress of hautecuisine invented by jour-nalist Paolo Marchi, ta-kes place in Milan fromthe 1 to the 4 February, involving well-known chefs and pastrychefs from all over the world. This years issues are summarized by three words: Vegetables(all that comes from vegetable gardens, green fields and theseas); Life (raw and healthy food), 20 Years Old (young chefs).Other themes are: the Great Families, i.e. the handling down ofprofessional talent from generation to generation; Marche andFrance, the 2009 Italian host region and the world host country;the great pastry chefs and the excellencies of chocolate and des-serts (with Valrhona); the world of wine; sapphron; creative cock-tails (www.identitagolose.it).

Identit Golose in Milan



The Spiced Coffee can be prepared withwhite chocolate cream, here served in tallcoloured glasses, or else with gianduiacream in low glasses.

Gianduja (or, more commonly, gianduia) is a chocolate containing about 50%hazelnut paste. It takes its name from Gianduja, a Piedmontese Carnival cha-racter. Piedmont is the Italian region where hazelnut confectionery is com-mon. Gianduiotti, a speciality of Turin, are chocolates shaped like an upturnedboat made with a mixture of cocoa and hazelnut paste.

Zabaglione is an Italian dessert made of egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine.It is usually served warm, though it can be served cold, or as a sauce, oreven frozen.

TRIS

COFFEE B

REAK

espresso coffee cl 3white chocolate cream cl 3

caramel cl 1rum and cinnamon zabaglione cl 3

This preparation is a sort of destructured cocktail made of choco-late cream, zabaglione and espresso coffee, served separately inthree small glasses. To obtain 6 cl of chocolate cream, melt 40 g of white chocolate.When melted, add 2 cl of liquid cream and 1 cl of milk; mix andbring to a creamy consistency. Pour into a shot glass, the bottomof which already has 1 cl of liquid caramel. If you wish, the creamcan be prepared with gianduia instead of white chocolate, whichresults in something even more interesting in terms of aroma.For the rum and cinnamon zabaglione, beat an egg yolk with 30 gof sugar in a jug, add the cinnamon powder and bring to acreamy consistency; add 1 cl of dark rum. When your mixture is

creamy, pour it into a small glass and sprinkle with dark cocoa.Prepare an espresso coffee, sweeten with sugar syrup and whiskin the blender with some ice chippings. Pour this also into thesmall glass.

Dessert-version destructured cocktailIn addition to serving it cold, following the instructions in the pre-vious recipe, Spiced coffee can also be served hot.For the cream, melt the chocolate and mix it with the other ingre-dients, as explained above, but pour the hot mixture into a shotglass with caramel on the bottom. For the zabaglione, after havingbeaten the eggs with the sugar and added the rum, froth it upwith the vapour nozzle of the espresso machine and pour it into ashot glass. Finally, prepare the coffee and sweeten it directly inthe shot glass (or in a small cup).

Roberto BianchiThanks go to Rinaldo Merlone,

director of the 'A. Prever' institute of Pinerolo,Alexandra Raluca Gadalean and Alberto Ferrero

Photos Remo Caffaro

Spiced Coffee


CRUNCHY SWEETS

flour kg 2butter kg 1.2

caster sugar g 800egg yolks no. 8

whole eggs no. 2baking powder g 20aromas, vanilla, salt and lemon to taste

Amalgamate the butter and sugar well, add both the egg yolks andwhole eggs, making sure they are properly mixed with the butterand sugar; lastly, add in the flour and aromas (it is basically the sa-me as a traditional short pastry). Make canestrelli and half coverthem with dark chocolate.

short pastry for Canestrelli of Torriglia kg 1

sour-cherry syrup g 100crushed cocoa beans g 200

Add the sour-cherry syrup and crushed cocoa beans to the cane-strelli mixture. Amalgamate everything well, and make small ba-tons. Brush the upper part with egg before baking. Cut up the ba-tons and drizzle with chocolate over top.

Crunchy hazelnut petits gteaux

milk g 100butter g 140

glucose g 100 Boil for 23 minutes

and then addcaster sugar g 300

crushed hazelnut praline g 300

Amalgamate well and spread out on baking paper. Bake at 160-180C until brown. Cool slightly, make squares using a pastry cut-ter and arrange them on a non-stick surface.

Zabaglione chantilly cream

egg yolks no. 10whole egg no. 1

sugar g 250Beat well and add

spoon of flour no. 1dry Marsala wine g 250

Bring to a boil, mixing well over the heat. Transfer to another pan.Cool and add a little cream.

Canestrelli of Torriglia

Breakfast cookies

Crunchy delicacies

CANESTRELLOThe canestrello or canestrelletto of Torriglia is a small short-pastry co-okie typical of Torriglia, a town in the Genoese hinterland. It has the sha-pe of a six-pointed star, sometimes with a hole in the middle and a du-sting of icing sugar. It even has a festival in its honour, held every year inTorriglia, in the Ligurian Apennines, in which all producers from theConsorzio del Canestrelletto take part.

Wild-berry sauce

wild-berry pulp g 500caster sugar g 500

glucose g 80

Bring to a boil for 23 minutes. Cool on a steel sheet and keep inthe refrigerator. It can also be used for shiny icing.

Assembly Prepare dark chocolate bases and place the hazelnut crunch ontop, shaped like little baskets.

For the petits gteaux withzabaglione chantilly cream, on each

crunchy base add a small slice of sponge soaked inMaraschino syrup, a drop of pure zabaglione, and finally the zaba-glione chantilly cream. Drizzle with pure zabaglione and decoratewith chocolate curls and grilles.For the chocolate petits gteaux, place some chocolate gianduiamousse (100 g of cream for 40 g of gianduia chocolate) on thecrunchy base, followed by a hemisphere of white chocolate con-taining the wild-berry sauce. Decorate with dabs of chocolate.

Antonio Le RoseIl Tempio del Cioccolato, Genova

Photos Tom Studio

Viva Dolce'sproducts are

true to the bestof traditions.This together

with innovativemarketing

strategies isthe secret of

sweet success.

VIVA DOLCEFIFTEEN YEARS OF CERTIFIEDQUALITY.Viva Dolce takes off from Naples, the home of great confectionary.Based in Naples, Salvatore Michele Acquaviva is exporting his artisanspirit all over Italy. He has used passion and charisma to turn a dreaminto reality. Now his company employs a total of thirty-five workers, be-ginning with his daughter Maria, in charge of quality, and his son-in-law Carlo Antonio D'Alessandro, in charge of marketing and sales.Located in San Gennarello di Ottaviano, soon to be flanked by the newestablishment, their professional work ethic and constant search forbetter quality, in addition to control of the entire supply and productionprocess mean Viva Dolce can turn to a select and knowledgeable clien-tele.From the very beginning, Viva Dolce has been a market leader in qual-ity frozen sweets and snacks. All of its products from homemadecones to babas, lobster-tail sfogliatellas, rustic delights and croquettes,not to mention the Neapolitan pastiera, sensual sfogliatellas, and clas-sic or innovative offerings are the result of a painstaking research, se-lection and application of natural ingredients. First-class materials,strict hygiene/food-safety norms, and a keeping to old artisan recipesgive you the most mouth-watering tastes.What makes Viva Dolce unique is the product quality certification re-served for the company's jewel in the crown: the Neapolitan sfogli-atella, made exclusively by hand. The recipe gives the most refinedpalates the fragrance and pleasure of a unique sweet supplied in largeor small orders depending on the individual needs of every bar, con-fectioner's shop, restaurant, or hotel.Precisely because it guards and promotes the confectionary tradition ofNaples, Viva Dolce is officially backed by the Associazione PasticcieriNapoletani, which promotes and protects the art and quality of Neapoli-tan confectionary the world over.Viva Dolce's good practice extends to other areas also, not only pro-duction. Passion, care, and attention to detail also on a social level are all part of the company's identity. This social commitment adds asweet touch to aspects of life that would otherwise be bitter and diffi-cult to bear, as parents of children with Duchenne and Becker Muscu-lar Dystrophy know only too well. In support of their association (ParentProject) and of the scientific research they are involved in, Viva Dolcehas invested considerable moral and economic resources.This social awareness, together with the protection of company em-

ployees and a respect for all legislative norms, hasbeen recognised at national level with the prestigiousethical work certification SA8000:2001.Also holders of the Quality Control Management Certi-fication (UNI EN ISO 9001:2000 ) and the Environ-mental Management Certification (ISO 14001:2004),Viva Dolce is the company to turn to if what you areseeking is a feast for the senses. No need to order largequantities then, especially when you consider that qual-ity is a privilege achieved in small steps.

Via Raggi, 20 - 80044 Gennarello di Ottaviano - NATel. +39 081 5297891 - Fax +39 081 8284329www.vivadolce.it

27


Viva Dolce ofSan Gennarellodi Ottaviano,near Naples, isa market leaderin quality fro-zen sweets andsnacks. All ofthe products from homema-de cones to ba-bas, lobster-tailsfogliatellas,rustic delightsand croquettes,not to mention the Neapolitanpastiera, sfogliatellas, and clas-sic or innovative offerings arethe result of research, selectionand application of natural ingre-dients. First-class materials, stricthygiene/food-safety norms, anda keeping to old artisan recipesassure the most mouth-wateringtastes.Moreover, Viva Dolce acquiredthe product quality certificationfor its Neapolitan sfogliatella, made exclusively by hand. The recipe gi-ves the fragrance and pleasure of a special sweet, supplied in large orsmall orders depending on the individual needs of every bar, confectio-ner's shop, restaurant, or hotel.Precisely because it guards and promotes the confectionary traditionof Naples, Viva Dolce is officially backed by the Associazione PasticcieriNapoletani (www.pasticcierinapoletani.it), which promotes andprotects the art and quality of Neapolitan confectionary the worldover (www.vivadolce.it).

Certified quality from Naples

Sfogliatella by Viva Dolce

Viva Dolces staff and the owners.

The new museum of the historical kitchens ofthe Palazzo Reale was inaugurated in Turin: fif-teen rooms in which visitors can see the kit-chens of King Vittorio Emanuele III and QueenElena, the kitchens of Prince Umberto ofPiedmont and of Maria Jos of Belgium, ice-houses, pantries, and a large cellar.The careful restoration of the rooms, furnitureand kitchen utensils has given a new lease of li-fe to the jobs and venues of the past; we cansee the work of cooks, confectioners, kitchenhands and maids, and sommeliers with theirwork instruments. Two thousand pieces in cop-per have been catalogued, from the large fish trays to small moulds for sweetsand biscuits, not to mention chopping blocks, ovens, and spits, which in this evo-cative exhibition reveal the secret everyday life of the royal kitchens. In the Apartment of Madama Felicita, various items for the royal tables, break-fast, tea, and chocolate are presented by Consolata Pralormo Design.(www.ambienteto.arti.beniculturali.it/reale.htm).

Turin's Royal kitchens reopened

Bravo Trittico Executiveis a partner of the

World Pastry Cup 2009

29

The Amoretti 2008 World Pastry Team Championship took place inNashville (Usa) at the end of August, and was won by Team Usa.

Runners up were Japan and Switzerland, with Italy in fourth place.For more info, www.pastrychampionship.com

at the WPTC 2008

Rossano Vinciarelli

Roberto Rinaldini

Fabrizio Galla

THE ITALIAN RECIPES



SPIRAL OF... Entremets

Almond, Piedmont hazelnut and Pisa pine kernel crunchy

butter g 55 glucose powder g 30

water g 30 icing sugar g 130

pectin g 2,5 Pisa pine kernel, chopped g 50

Piedmont hazelnuts, chopped g 50 Bari almonds, chopped g 50

Mix all the ingredients together, spread between two Silpat andcook in the oven for 10 minutes at 180C.

66% chocolate sponge cake

butter g 90 fresh egg whites g 360

dehidrated egg whites g 7 white cane caster sugar g 75

caster sugar g 125 pasteurized yolks g 200

flour g 60 starch g 60

66% chocolate g 180

Melt butter and chocolate together at 45C. Apart, mix sugarand dehydrated egg whites. Whip the egg whites with the sugarand dehydrated egg whites mixture. Sift the powders together.Add gently the yolks to the egg whites and whip with the eggbeater. Take a small amount of it and add to the chocolate andbutter mixture to dilute it. Combine the two mixtures and addthe sifted flours using the spatula. Spread on a silicon mat in theproper mould. Cook at 170C for 7 minutes.

Vanilla soak

white cane sugar g 200 water g 200

vanilla pod no. 2

Bring syrup and vanilla pods to the boil. Let it cool and thensoak the sponge cake.

Lemon-scented raspberry and strawberry gel

10% sweetened strawberry pulp g 100 10% sweetened raspberry pulp g 100

gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 3,6 white cane sugar g 30

inverted sugar g 10 grated lemon n. 1

Soak the gelatine; heat the pulps at 35C and add the sugars.Combine the soaked gelatine and pour 80 g over the exotic cre-meux.

Exotic fruits cremeux

10% sweetened passion fruit pulp g 150

10% sweetened coconut pulp g 100 10% sweetened mango pulp g 50

Amalfi fresh lemon juice g 35 white cane sugar g 300

dextrose g 40 glucose powder g 20 gelatine sheets g 9

butter 82% g 440 fresh cream 37% g 160

Cook the fruit pulps, the lemon juice and the powder at 82C.Let it cool down to 40C, add the previously melted gelatinesheets in the microwave, and in the cutter combine the butterand the fresh cream. Use 150 grams for cake.

Tahiti vanilla cremeux

fresh whole milk g 300 fresh cream 37% g 450

glucose powder g 15 inverted sugar g 30

white cane sugar g 90 pasteurized yolks g 210

rice starch g 7,5 gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 12

Tahiti vanilla pod no. 2

Prepare and cook the custard at 86C; cool in the blast chillerand add the gelatine at 35C.

31

66% chocolate cremeux

custard g 300 66% chocolate g 300

Lightly melt the chocolate in the microwave and emulsify withthe custard; pour it immediately in the proper mould.

Custard

fresh cream 35% g 250fresh milk g 110

pasteurized yolks g 100 white cane sugar g 60

maize starch g 5

Cook all the ingredients at 82C, then cool quickly in the blastchiller.

Hazelnut and caramel panna cotta

fresh cream 35% butterfat g 500 glucose g 50

white cane sugar g 250 gelatine g 14

Piedmont hazelnut paste g 220

Prepare a dry caramel, de-cook with cream and glucose, addthe gelatine and let it cool down to 35C, combining the hazel-nut at 60C.

66% chocolate, Piedmont hazelnut and caramel mousse

chocolate cremeux g 150 vanilla cremeux g 150

caramel panna cotta g 500 whipped cream g 150

Mix the two cremeux with the panna cotta at 35C and lightenwith whipped cream.

Vanilla, chocolate and caramel glaze

fresh cream 35% g 600 cane sugar g 525

glucose 43 DE g 405 gelatine g 30

salt g 2 Bourbon vanilla pod no. 3

milk chocolate g 150

Dry-caramelize the sugar and heat cream, cocoa, glucose andvanilla together. Slowly pour the liquid mixture over the carameland bring to the boil for a few minutes. Add the gelatine andemulsify to the chocolate with a dipping blender.

AssemblyThis entremets is assembled in reverse order in a suitable sili-con mould. Place 150 g of vanilla cremeux, then insert the firstinner part composed of chocolate sponge cake, exotic cremeuxand red fruits pulp. Then add the other 150 g of vanilla cremeuxand close with the inner part made of chocolate, hazelnut andcaramel mousse, chocolate Sponge cake and crunchy. Put inthe blast chiller at -30C, pull the dessert off the mould with thechocolate cremeux on top. Add the vanilla, caramel and choco-late glaze. Place the chocolate and Isomalt decor in the centre ofthe dessert.

Vanilla Cremeux

Chocolate Sponge Cake

Almond, Hazelnut and Pine Kernel Crunchy

Golden Leaf

Vanilla, Caramel and Chocolate Glaze

Raspberry and Strawberry gel

Exotic fruits cremeuxRaspberry and Strawberry gelChocolate, Hazelnut and Caramel Mousse

Chocolate Cremeux

RING OF MYSTERY Entremet glac

Lemon and hazelnut bacio di dama

butter g 50 cane sugar g 50

hazelnut flour g 60 flour g 50

fine pink salt g 1 grated lemon g 10

Knead in a mixer all the ingredients; when they are well mixed,place the mixture between two thin Silpats, and bake in the ovenat 160C for 14 minutes. After baking, paint with cocoa butter.

Madagascar vanilla perfumed semifreddo

pasteurized eggs yolks g 150 sugar g 300 water g 70

dextrose g 40 mascarpone cheese g 370

fresh cream 35% butterfat g 370 Madagascar vanilla pod no. 1

vanilla distillate g 11.5

Whip together mascarpone cheese, cream, vanilla pod inside,and when the whipping is almost finished, add the vanilla distil-late. Bring the two mixtures carefully together.


Raspberry and strawberry coulis

10% sweetened strawberry pulp g 150 10% sweetened raspberry pulp g 150

inverted sugar g 70 saccharose g 50

dextrose g 10 Kirsch 45% vol. g 30

pectin g 5

Mix saccharose, pectin, dextrose, inverted sugar and a bit ofstrawberry pulp together; heat in the microwave, add the re-maining strawberry pulp, and at 25C, pour the kirsch. Use it toglaze at 18C.

Hazelnut gelato

whole fresh milk g 1,200 fresh cream 35% g 270

dextrose g 55 white cane caster sugar g 260

dehydrated glucose g 52 skimmed milk powder g 98

neutral stabilizer g 12 hazelnut puree g 300

Bring the liquids to 55C and add the powder, previously mixedtogether. Bring the mixture to 62C, add in the fruit pulp andcook at 82C.

Mandarin sorbet

10% sweetened mandarin pulp g 1,000 dextrose g 25

white cane caster sugar g 135 dehydrated glucose g 55

fruit neutral stabilizer g 5 water g 115

Chocolate spray mixtureMadagascar vanilla perfumed semifreddo

Piedmont hazelnut gelato

Orange glaze

Raspberry and strawberry coulis

Chocolate ganache

Mandarin sorbet

Bring the liquids to 55C and add the powder previously mixedtogether. Bring the mixture to 62C, add in the fruit pulp andcook at 82C.

Chocolate ganache

white cane sugar g 40 dextrose g 40

water g 300 inverted sugar g 200

gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 10 cocoa g 30

Heat water and inverted sugar at 60C; combine the sugars andthe cocoa and cook until the temperature of 102C is reached.Add the gelatine and cool down to 25C. Pour into mould.

Chocolate spray mixture

milk chocolate g 200 dark chocolate g 50

cocoa butter g 150 liposoluble red colour g 20

Mix colouring with cocoa butter, previously melted at 45C: filter and mix with the two chocolates.

Lemon and hazelnutbacio di dama


Imagination boxPlated dessert

Dessert n. 1 Iced infusion of Sicilian orange

fresh Sicilian orange juice g 200 orange rinds no. 2

glucose 38 de g 45 white cane sugar g 65

water g 35

Bring the water with the orange rinds and the sugar to boilingpoint, let it cool then add the orange juice. Pour into the smallglasses and freeze.

Hot apple cider

mixed apple pulp g 300 liquid sugar g 20

Heat up the pulp with the sugar at 45C. Filter and serve overthe frozen infusion.

Dessert n. 2 Tonka bean panna cotta

fresh whole milk g 100 glucose 38 DE g 10

gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 4 white chocolate g 100

Blueberry and raspberry salad in vanilla infusion

Tonka beans panna cotta

Lemon-scented red fruit air

Gold leaf

Isomalt decor

Imagination dessertwith dried ice

Mint coulis

Hot apple cider

Iced infusion of orange

Chocolate powder

Mascarpone foam and vanilla

Savoy sponge cake with coffee sauce

cocoa butter g 20 fresh cream 35% g 200

Tonka bean g 0.35

Heat up the milk with the Tonka bean and glucose. At 65C addthe gelatine and emulsify slowly with the chocolate and the co-coa butter. Slowly pour the cream and carry on emulsifying.Divide into portions.

Lemon-scented red fruit air

caster sugar g 69 water g 81

grated lemon rind g 0.4 strawberry pulp g 65 raspberry pulp g 45

gelatine g 6

Bring the syrup with the lemon rind to the boil, blast chill andadd the pulps and gelatine. Once cold whip and pour in smallglasses.

Raspberry and blueberry salad in vanilla infusion

raspberries g 100 black blueberries g 100

water g 100 white cane sugar g 120

vanilla pod no. 1

Bring the syrup with vanilla to the boil, blast chill and, oncecold, pour on the fruits. Keep in the fridge at 4C.

Mint coulis

glucose g 100 water g 50

fresh mint g 15 green food colouring g 2

Prepare an infusion with the fresh mint and water. When stillboiling, add the glucose and cook until 63Brix. When cold,add the colouring.

Neutral glaze

white cane sugar g 100 pectin g 15 water g 600

glucose 38 DE g 300 white cane sugar g 900

Mix 100 g of sugar with the pectin and pour it on the hot waterat 55C. Bring to the boil. Pour the glucose and the remainingsugar and cook again at 95C.

Orange glaze

neutral glaze g 500 orange pulp g 300

gelatine sheets 125 Bloom g 10

orange colour g 2 orange essential oil g 1

Bring gelatine with orange pulp together and cook at66Brix. Add the gelatine and the essential oil.

Assembly Prepare the first inner part with the vanilla semifreddo andthe red fruit coulis and put in the blast chiller at -25C.Prepare the second inner part with the chocolate ganacheand the mandarin sorbet and put in the blast chiller at -25C. Lastly fill the silicone mould with the hazelnut gelatoand insert in the order the two inner parts. Close with thelemon and hazelnut bacio di dama. Spray the chocolatemixture in the inner part of the sweet and glaze the outerpart with the orange glaze. Garnish with a sugar domeand a sugar stylized butterfly.


AssemblyPour the red fruit air into the small glass, freeze in the blast chil-ler, then pour over the panna cotta. Finish with the red fruit sa-lad and mint coulis.

Dessert n. 3 Savoy sponge cake

egg whites g 250 sugar g 250 flour g 200

starch g 50 egg yolks g 170

Whip the egg whites at 20C while slowly adding the sugar.When the whites are done, slowly add the yolks. Sift the floursand add them to the mixture manually using a spatula. Lay themixture in a baking-tin and bake in the oven at 180C for 12minutes.

Mascarpone foam and bourbon vanilla

mascarpone cheese g 200 fresh cream 35% butterfat g 50

pasteurized egg yolks g 100 white cane sugar g 95 fresh whole milk g 140

gelatine g 8 Bourbon vanilla pod n. 1/2

Prepare a custard and cook at 82C. Add the gelatine and let itcool at 35C. Add the mascarpone and the whipped cream mi-xed together with the vanilla.

Coffee sauce

espresso coffee g 200 white cane sugar g 70

Prepare the coffee with the machine, add the sugar and pourwhile hot on the chocolate sponge cake.

AssemblyPour in the small glasses by alternating a layer of foam with oneof coffee-soaked savoy sponge cake.

TEAM ITALY THANKS ITS SPONSORS

From left, Iginio Massari, Gino Fabbri, Rossano Vinciarelli, BiagioSettepani, Fabrizio Galla and, in front, Roberto Rinaldini.

it BoulangeriePiacenza

SIGEP17- 21 january 2009, Rimini

(Pad A3 Stand 015)

14-17 february 2009, Rimini(Pad A3 Stand 135)

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Strawberry gelato

sugar g 320dextrose g 90

glucose syrup g 100neutral g 15

water g 550strawberries g 900

small strawberries g 350orange juice g 30

Mix all the ingredients except fruits and cook at 80C in the pa-steurizer. Cool and add fruits. Mix and thicken.

Orange gelato

Prepare a base syrup withsugar g 450

dextrose g 30 glucose syrup g 65

neutral g 6 emulsifying agent g 3

vegetable fat g 50 water g 400

SICILIAN DELIGHTSTerra mia

Cook the ingredients at 80C in the pasteurizer and cool. Add thesyrup

orange juice g 800 lemon juice g 30

water g 120

Thicken.

Assembly

On a layer of traditional sponge soaked in orange liqueur, spreadout a layer of strawberry gelato followed by an equal layer of oran-ge gelato. Chill. Remove the cake and cover with orange-flavouredneutral gelatin.

Santi Palazzolo Cinisi, Palermo

www.pasticceriapalazzolo.comPhoto Salvatore Farina

GELATO

39

Short pastry

soft flour g 200very fine sugar g 70

butter g 70eggs no. 1

baking ammonia g 3.5

Mix the powders in a mixing bowl; separately soften the butterand beat the eggs. Add the butter to the powders and beginkneading. Continue to knead adding the egg a little at a time un-til you get a smooth mixture that is not greasy. If you can, avoidkneading by hand.Cover the dough and let it stand for 20 minutes in the refrigera-tor. Then make a disc large enough to line an 18 cm mould, 4mm thick.

Hazelnut paste

hazelnut kernels g 100caster sugar g 100

water g 40

Knead and work with the roll refiner or cutter.Cover the bottom of the mould with a 2 mm layer of hazelnutpaste. Use the blade of a knife on a chopping board to work 250 g ofpreviously drained courgettes candied in honey syrup. Arrangethese evenly over the hazelnut paste.

For the rice

Balilla rice g 200orange flower honey g 50Mielar Pepe Bianco g 30

hazelnut paste g 80unrefined sea salt g 3

COURGETTE DELIGHTRice and courgette pie

MIELAR PEPE BIANCO belongs to the Mielar ran-ge, a line of flavoured preparations made with honey,invented by Corrado Assenza himself, which are soldin small jars and transparent phials. Among the availa-ble tastes there are orange, lemon, tangerine, berga-mot, white pepper, cinnamon, ginger, saffron, redpepper, cocoa bean, and also the unusual tobacco.

Boil the rice in slightly salted water sweetened with the honey.Drain the rice while still al dente. Add and mix the Mielar PepeBianco and the hazelnut paste. When warm, place inside the bakingdish on top of the candied courgettes. Level off with a spatula andplace in a 230C oven for 25-30 minutes.Cool in a blast chiller and remove from the tin with the help of a grilljust as soon as the rice has become compact.Prior to serving, decorate the surface of the rice with 15 g of MielarPepe Bianco, making a central rosette with the courgette slices.

Corrado AssenzaCaff Sicilia, Noto

Photo Farina

Balilla Rice comes through selection from the first variety of rice histo-rically grown in Italy, which was the sole variety until a century ago. Thegrains are round and small, and they show a high absorption and gro-wing power during the cooking process. Its the best variety for themaking of rice sweets, soups and other gastronomic specialties, suchas Sicilian arancini, flans, croquettes, etc.

Sistema Gelato ItalianoA new group trade-mark SistemaGelato Italiano proposed by theItalian associationof gelato makingmachine manufacturers(Acomag), aims to promote the exportof Italian goods, services and knowhowrelated to the world of gelato. The grouptrademark can be used by all Italiancompanies with at least five years' ex-perience. Seven sectors have beenshortlisted to be part of the system:Italian gelato makers' associations (in-cluding professional Italian associationsabroad); ingredients and compound in-gredients (raw materials and AIIPA);equipment, furniture and machines(Acomag); accessories and packaging;sector trade fairs; sector press; training,consultancy and communication(www.acomag.it).

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Serves 4

potatoes g 400 rabbit legs g 200

flour g 80 DOP Grana Padano cheese g 140

red wine cl 5 onion g 20 carrot g 15

celery stalk g 15bay-leaf no. 1

thyme no. 1 sprigmarjoram no. 1 sprig

Stock liqueur to tastenutmeg to taste

extra virgin olive oil to tastesalt and pepper to taste

Cook the potatoes in plenty of salted water, strain, peel and mashthem on a wooden board. Add the flour, 70 g of grated GranaPadano cheese, salt, and nutmeg and knead gently.Roll small amounts of dough on the board into small salami, cutthem into 2 cm long pieces, and stripe them rolling them on a forkand pressing with your thumb. Mince the rabbit meat.Sweat the vegetables and torn herbs in a casserole with oil, addthe rabbit meat and let it brown, deglaze with red wine, add someStock and cook on a low heat. Arrange 40 g of Grana Padanocheese into small heaps on a Silpat mat, bake in the microwave for25 seconds and shape into cones. Blanch the gnocchi insalted water and sautin a pan with the ra-gout. Place them inthe cheese cones,garnish with thymeand grated GranaPadano cheese.

Recipes from the ICIF

CUISINE

Potato gnocchi with a rabbit ragout

Tekno Stamap srl Web Site: www.teknostamap.com E-mail: [email protected] Vittorio Veneto, 141 - 36040 Grisignano di Zocco (VI) - Italy - Phone +39 0444 - 414 731/5 - Fax: +39 0444 414 719

Tekno Stamap in cooperation with major companies worldwide is developing a wide range of new products. It is now present , directly or indirectly, in all Countries of the worldTekno Stamap production range includes manual and automatic sheeters, planetary mixers, machines for croissant making, lines for puff pastry and laminated dough ideal for both small bakers and confectioners as well as for medium-size factories

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COLD ZABAGLIONE WITH PASSITO WINE

Take off the heat, add 5 g of gelatine, previously softened, andthe crumbled amaretti cookies. Let it cool.Fold in the whisked cream, pour the mix into cylindrical mouldsand let it set in the fridge for 3 hours.Boil 10 cl of wine, let it reduce by 50%, add 2 g of softened ge-latine. Bring the remaining Moscato Passito to a boil, add 10 g ofgelatine, let it set and cut into diamond shapes.Melt half the chocolate, add the remaining half and work witha wooden spoon at 32C; pour into a parchment cone and de-corate.Remove the semifreddo from the mould, place it in a plate, gar-nish with chocolate grids, coat with the Moscato Passito reductionand garnish with gelatine and mint leaves.

ICIFCostigliole dAsti

www.icif.comPhotos Marco Beltramo ICIF

Italian amaretti are small, crunchy,chewy-inside, macaroon-like cookiesmade with almond flour, egg whites, andsugar.

Serves 4

egg yolks g 90sugar g 25

Moscato Passito wine cl 56dried amaretti cookies g 125

fresh cream g 250gelatine g 17

mint to taste dark chocolate to taste

Add the yolks to the sugar and 25 cl of Moscato Passito,put in a bain-marie and whisk.

The machine to launch a new season in your gelato shop

THE GELATO AND PASTRY MACHINE

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44 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

With the first Michelin star, the publicationof the book 'Mise en place',

and the convocation of Identit Golose,Stefano Baiocco takes his place in the firmament of great stars

Stefano Baiocco and Villa Feltrinelli: he the young, passionate anddetermined chef; she the majestic, proud and matronly villa ofGargnano, on the Lago di Garda. An alliance of innovation and tra-dition each making a statement of its own. In this setting, the cui-sine of thirty-year-old Baiocco from the Marche is exalted as isthis almost fairy-tale location. Given his work with big names onthe international stage Ducasse, Roca, Adri, Gagnaire, Barbot,and Aduriz Baiocco was appointed executive chef of the GrandHotel Villa Feltrinelli in 2004. This valuable experience underlinedhis qualities: precision, professionalism, discipline, modesty, tena-city, and leadership; it also led to his being awarded the firstMichelin star. This important recognition is the fruit of a unique ta-lent, which translates into elegant, clean and almost sensual co-oking. Baiocco's dishes are a balance of taste, colour and aromasdictated by his perfectionism and an innate aesthetic awareness.His care and passion for officinal herbs, which he grows in a smalldedicated garden, set him apart from the rest with light and well-balanced works. I met Stefano at Identit Golose(www.identitagolose.it). He is like his cooking: fresh, sponta-neous, and mysterious.

Tradition or creativity? Some claim there are two forms of cuisi-ne: one scientist, the other traditional. Which do you side with?I'm in the middle. I'm not avoiding the question; it's simply a cohe-rent and conscious statement about the work I do and the place Ido it in. It is also a way to keep up to date and never miss the star-ting gun.

There is a lot of talk about exploring flavours. Are there new fla-vours to experiment with?Exploration is fundamental if you want to avoid the risk of fossili-zing the palate. We have a duty to keep curiosity alive by travellingand discovering new aromas and flavours. Yet we should never goover the top because I don't like any form of extreme. What is im-portant is the memory one has of a flavour. So yes to experimen-tation and the search for new sensations, only without forgettingour roots and the flavours that have characterised our cuisine forcenturies.

2007 was crowned with personal success: the Michelin star, thepublication of your book, and Identit Golose...The funny thing is that Villa Feltrinelli was in the shadows for years;critics writing for the leading guides had never taken us into consi-deration. Now, all of a sudden, everyone is knocking on our door.Unfortunately, this happens all too often. I have many colleagueswho are reputable professionals and passionate about their work,yet they are ignored by the world that 'counts' which prefers in-stead to speak about the famous.

How important is your Michelin star?When the Guide came out all hell broke loose: telephone calls,messages, emails, faxes, all offering their congratulations (somemore sincere than others). The star for me makes me feel veryproud and satisfied. People who do not know our world find it dif-ficult to understand its importance. It sets you apart from the rest,

CUISINE

The chef'smagic

45

although today you need at least two. It is a recognition that placesyou one step up the ladder of Italian restauration. In addition, formany restaurants, perhaps in the provinces, there is a financial re-turn. I hope the star will bring to Villa Feltrinelli an even more se-lect clientele that will enjoy both the fine food and beauty of thisplace.

Why did you decide to write about your experience and knowledge in a book?I had been considering the idea for some time, but several yearspassed between thinking about the book and actually writing it.There are so many things to organise: financial support, photo-graphy, text proofing and translation, graphic design, and publica-tion. When you consider that all of this is in addition to youreveryday work, it is easy to understand just how arduous the taskwas, albeit satisfying. I tried to come out of my shell with thisbook. I wanted to make myself known and make people under-stand the world I live in, my way of thinking and of doing things,without the pretension of teaching anything to anyone.

You have worked with leading names on the international stage,and you have just been on a training cour Marbella, at DaniGarcia's Calima. How important is ongoing training?For almost ten years, the world of restauration in general, and cui-sine in particular, has been moving forward at great speed, andmajor changes are evident. I think it is our duty to keep up withtraining courses, promotions, meetings and anything else that willhelp us understand the direction we are moving in. Whether youdecide to adopt more or less innovative cuisine is a different mat-ter. Knowledge and awareness come first. It is then up to everyone of us to decide what is appropriate and what not for the typeof restaurant, its location, the type of clientele and the restaurant'sphilosophy.

How do you come up with a menu? Cooking is a means of communication that lets me convey myemotions. A menu reflects what I feel.

How important are desserts and small confectionary?They are a key element of a menu and they follow the same logicof the cuisine. I do not believe that the latter prevails over confec-tionary, or vice versa. Instead, I think they are both essential formaking an evening out at the restaurant a unique experience.Everything, of course, is helped by an excellent service.

Is the dessert menu created separately to the rest of the menu?Sweet and savoury travel along parallel tracks. A dessert, just like astarter or first course, is changed or modified depending on theseason and on the availability of ingredients. It is normal that du-ring the warmer months there are light and fresh dishes, perhapsusing the fruit of the season, fresh herbs and citrus fruits; heaviermeals are prepared during the winter months. My desserts are ne-ver too rich in fatty substances or sugars, which responds to theincreasing importance customer's are giving to their looks andhealth.

In your cuisine has sweet contaminated savoury, or vice versa?Is there a point where these two meet, and if yes, what formdoes this take?There is no real meeting point and I don't even look for one. I pre-fer to keep the two things separate. As I said earlier, they have tofollow the same concept and logical thread. Sometimes, however,there are sweet/savoury influences: chicken liver crme caramelfor instance, or the use of ingredients which, although belongingto the savoury world, are used in confectionary herbs, salt, bal-samic vinegar, and olive oil. Such combinations become custo-

mary in many cuisines, and pass as 'classics'.

Sweet, savoury, bitter, acid: which do you prefer and how arethey mixed?I prefer not to use the term mix. All of these components play apart in my dishes, yet they remain distinct. It is important that thedish does not have a communion of too many flavours. This is notto say I do not enjoy creating and experimenting with combina-tions, but just that I am not fond of extreme flavours. I do not likebitter tastes, or those which are too sweet and nauseating. I loveacidic and spicy flavours, especially savoury ones. The merethought of a grain of salt makes my mouth water.

What could you not do without in the kitchen?My team. I could do without any other ingredient or utensil andmake up for it in some other manner, but the rapport I have withmy team comes first. Without them I would not be able to do thesame type of cuisine in the manner that I do it. Also, it is thanks tosome of them that I am able to develop new ideas. Finally, I like tobe able to share our efforts and passions.

What importance does dressage and mise en place have in thepreparation of a dish?The term 'mise en place' also refers to cleanliness, rigour, profes-sionalism and organisation. These are key elements not so muchfor the creation of a recipe but more for our work in general. It allbegins with the simplest of things: a cook will never be organisedif in the morning he leaves home with his wardrobe in a mess,wears a dirty outfit, finds blunt and misaligned knives in the dra-wer, has his storeroom in a mess and a poorly stacked refrigera-tor.

Do you have any dreams?Yes many, but I prefer to keep them to myself. I am told that if youtalk about them they won't come true!

Monica Onnis


Stefano Baiocco

Villa Feltrinelli on the Lago di Garda.


Mise en place

Potato crunchS

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 14/2009

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Transcript of PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 14/2009