Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

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Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

Transcript of Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

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P A S S I O N A T E LY D I F F E R E N T

W A T C H M A K I N G O V E R T W O C E N T U R I E S

M O S E R S C H A F F H A U S E N A G

S W I T Z E R L A N D

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THE PRESENT-DAY COMPANY

HEADQUARTERS OF MOSER GROUP AG

ARE IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF THE

RHINE FALLS AT SCHAFFHAUSEN. EUROPE’S

LARGEST WATERFALL ATTRACTS VISITORS

FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD EVERY YEAR.

AT AN AVERAGE FLOW, AROUND 700

CUBIC METRES OF WATER PER SECOND

CASCADE OVER THE ROCKS AND OFFER A

SPECTACULAR SIGHT.

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CONTENTS

9 FOREWORD

10 THE MOSER WATCHMAKING DYNASTY IN SCHAFFHAUSEN 13 COMPANY HISTORY HEINR ICH MOSER THE WATCHMAKER COMPANY, BR AND NAME AND SE AL

24 TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM V IS IONS

28 MOSER PERPETUAL 1 PERPE TUAL CALENDAR AND FL ASH CALENDAR

36 PERPETUAL MOON CENTRE SECONDS MOSER DOUBLE BARREL

42 MONARD

50 MONARD DATE THE B IG DATE FROM MOSER 58 MERIDIAN ALTERNAT ING 12- AND 24-HOUR D ISPL AY AUTOMAT IC PAWL WINDING SYSTEM

66 MAYU WHEEL S, P IN IONS AND LE VERS HACK ING SECOND

76 HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING STR AUMANN DOUBLE HA IRSPRING

84 LIMITED COLLECTORS EDITIONS

90 TECHNICAL DETAILS TE AM SPIR IT AND SPECIAL ISTS DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC ) MECHANISM THE STR AUMANN HA IRSPRING ® INTERCHANGE ABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE THE CR AF TSMAN’S ART F IN ISH ING

103 TIMELINE

108 IMPRINT

C O N T E N T S

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14-CARAT GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH

WITH MINUTE REPEATER AND

CHRONOGRAPH, CA 1900

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It gives me great pleasure, dear watch enthusiast, to intro-

duce you to the watches from H. Moser & Cie in this new

edition of our catalogue, although the origins of the com-

pany actually go back some 180 years. The history encom-

passes the life of my great-grandfather Heinrich Moser,

born more than 200 years ago, who had already gained an

international reputation as a watchmaker by the age of 21,

and the successful relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand

in 2005.

At the beginning of the 21st century, in the course of his

research, the Schaffhausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange

came across the Moser watch dynasty including me as one

of the descendants. The desire to revive the H. Moser & Cie

watch brand arose from our subsequent meeting. I was de-

lighted to accept the honourable task of representing the

company externally. Today our thanks are due primarily

to the friends of the house of Moser, who have remained

loyal to us for so long, and in particular to our highly

committed shareholders and employees. The new start

would not have been possible without their keen interest

and their passionate involvement. We can look back with

pride over everything that has happened during this pe-

riod. Among other things, we were awarded the prestig-

ious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for our Moser

Perpetual 1. New calibres, such as the Henry Double

Hairspring with its revolutionary new escapement sys-

tem, and, most recently, the first Moser watch with auto-

matic winding, have also found a place in our family of

watches.

It fills me with pride and joy today, as the great-grandson

of Heinrich Moser, to have returned to the place where he

used to work and to be able again to present watches that

are entitled to bear the name of such an important and

innovative man.

FOREWORD

ROGER NICHOLAS BALSIGER

HONORARY CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD

OF DIRECTORS MOSER GROUP AG

SCHAFFHAUSEN, MARCH 2012

F O R E W O R D

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More than 30 other watchmakers are listed in the town

records in the 17th century. Yet not until Johannes Moser

(1730–1820), the grandfather of Heinrich Moser, would

the town again see a watchmaker whose works have stood

the test of time. As town watchmaker and magistrate in

the local court, Johannes Moser was a respected figure.

10

Schaffhausen’s reputation as an important watchmaking

town can be traced back to the middle of the 16th cen-

tury. Joachim Habrecht, who received the Town Charter

of Schaffhausen in 1539, went on to build the astronomi-

cal clock for the Schaffhausen Fronwagturm tower, which

is still in operation. His two sons, Isaac (1544–1620) and

Josias (1552–1575) Habrecht, built the second astronomi-

cal clock in Strasbourg Cathedral and were among the

most famous watchmakers of their age. A table clock by

Isaac Habrecht exhibited at the Museum of Applied Arts

and Design in the city of Winterthur bears witness to the

artistic skills and refined craftsmanship of the watchmak-

ers of that period.

In the master enameller and engraver Georg Michael Mo-

ser (1706–1783), the town once again produced a horo-

logical craftsman whose fame would spread beyond its

boundaries. His elaborately executed gold cases adorn

many a collection of important watches. Georg Michael

Moser, a distant relative of Heinrich Moser, also became

a founding member of the British Royal Academy of Arts

in later years.

THE MOSER WATCHMAKING DYNAST Y IN SCHAFFHAUSEN

TABLE CLOCK SIGNED

«JOHANNES MOSER IN SCHAFFHAUSEN»,

CA 1770, HOMBERGER COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN

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11W A T C H M A K I N G D Y N A S T Y

VERGE POCKET WATCH SIGNED

«ERHARD MOSER A SCHAFFHOUSE»

EARLY 19TH CENTURY

He established the Moser watchmaking dynasty with the

trade mark of the highest quality and superb craftsman-

ship. His son Erhard Moser (1760–1829) succeeded him in

the trade of town watchmaker. Like his father before him,

Erhard Moser was also well known beyond his occupa-

tion as a watchmaker as a member of the Grand Council

and Town Commissioner. He introduced his son Hein-

rich Moser, born in 1805 in the «Haus zum Blauen Him-

mel» in Schaffhausen, to the watchmaker’s craft.

The artistic skill of Heinrich Moser’s creations very soon

gained him international respect and recognition. He be-

came the leading Schaffhausen exponent of this craft

with businesses in St. Petersburg and Le Locle, among

other locations. He opened a workshop for the manufac-

ture of watch cases in Schaffhausen in 1853, and he estab-

lished a school for watchmakers in 1856. He supported F.

A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch

Company (IWC) in 1868 by providing him with premises

and low-cost electricity supplied via a power transmission

system.

IWC kept the watchmaking tradition of Schaffhausen

alive for a great many years and with a very chequered

history. Not until 2002 would far-sighted, entrepreneurial

courage once again provide the stimulus for a new, «old»

H. Moser & Cie watch factory.

The records tell us that the establishment of his watch busi-

ness in Schaffhausen was indeed Heinrich Moser’s lifelong

dream. Now, more than 200 years after the birth of Hein-

rich Moser in Schaffhausen, the story of an enterprise

which first set up in business in St. Petersburg in 1826 has

come full circle with the relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie

brand.

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13C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

Heinrich Moser was born on 12 December 1805 into the

large family of the town watchmaker of Schaffhausen,

Erhard Moser. He grew up in 19th-century Schaffhausen

surrounded by the tradition and experience of a watch-

making dynasty consolidated over several generations. He

worked in the family business from 1820 to 1824, where

he learned the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his

father, and subsequently broadened his knowledge in the

watchmaking town of Le Locle in western Switzerland. In

1826, Heinrich Moser started work on his own account

and built clocks into cases and pieces of furniture for a

German merchant. His plans to succeed to the position of

town watchmaker after the death of his father, a vocation

which had been performed by the family for two genera-

tions, were thwarted by the town council in Schaff-

hausen. He would hold this against the authorities for the

rest of his life.

As an ambitious and visionary watchmaker, Heinrich

Moser decided to set up in business in distant Russia.

Imperial Russia at that time was regarded as an excellent

labour and sales market and as a sound trading base for

watches. In order to prepare for this challenge, Heinrich

Moser used his free time to build watches and tools that

would facilitate his start-up in business. He had the equiv-

alent of around 2,000 Swiss francs in cash at the time of

his departure in November 1827.

His journey to St. Petersburg in 1827 was anything but

comfortable. Heinrich Moser travelled by coach via

Karlsruhe and Weimar to Stettin, and onwards by pas-

senger ship to St. Petersburg.

HEINRICH MOSER THE WATCHMAKER

HEINRICH MOSER’S PASSPORT,

DATING FROM 1872

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GOLD MINUTE REPEATER

BY HEINRICH MOSER,

END OF THE 19TH CENTURY

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After working for a number of employers as a watchmaker,

he founded his own company in St. Petersburg at the end

of 1828. This marked the inception of the highly success-

ful H. Moser & Cie brand. Alongside expensive precision

watches and watches designed as pieces of jewellery, Hein-

rich Moser also offered a range of simple watches.

In the course of developing his trading network, he real-

ized that a successful wholesaler would also benefit from

being a manufacturer at the same time. Heinrich Moser

accordingly established a watch factory in Le Locle in

1829, which manufactured watches exclusively for his

own businesses. This enabled him to guarantee the high

quality of the products bearing his name. He was later

made an honorary citizen of Le Locle in recognition of

his services to the town in the Swiss Jura. One of the

company buildings exists there to this day and is listed as

a historic monument. In addition to the movements pro-

duced in his own factory in Le Locle, he also purchased

movement blanks from such prestigious companies as

Urban Jürgensen or Jaeger-LeCoultre. Their records list

him as a regular customer from 1860.

Heinrich Moser’s constant quest for quality was crowned

by success. He supplied the Imperial Court, various

princes and the armed forces in Russia. Within just a few

years, he was selling watches to Persia, China and Japan,

as well as New York and Paris, where his brother Georg

Moser was also working as a watchmaker. Only 15 years

after founding his company, Heinrich Moser was the un-

disputed market leader in the Russian watch trade. He

returned to his home town of Schaffhausen as a prosper-

ous watch manufacturer and merchant at the end of 1848.

BUSINESS DEALINGS

WITH NEW YORK AND PARIS

IN 1867 AND 1868

C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

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In addition to watchmaking, Heinrich Moser’s life fol-

lowing his return to Switzerland was also characterized

by other projects combined with restless creativity. With

his pioneering spirit, he initiated the transformation of

the previously sleepy town of Schaffhausen into a dy-

namic industrial location. In 1851, Heinrich Moser com-

pleted the construction of a channel on the River Rhine,

which provided the water power to drive a turbine with an

output of around 80 hp. This was followed in 1853 by a

joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities for

the establishment of Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei

Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen),

which changed its name to Schweizerische Industrieges-

ellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company

Neuhausen) in 1863. He was also a co-founder of the

Schaffhausen–Winterthur railway line in 1853. In the

winter of 1863/64, Heinrich Moser embarked on the con-

struction of the largest Swiss dam at that time on the

River Rhine at Schaffhausen, which enabled him to sup-

ply neighbouring industrial companies with inexpensive

energy via a power transmission system. The subsequent

establishment of Wasserwerk Gesellschaft Schaffhausen

(Schaffhausen Waterworks Company) in 1865 marked

the dawn of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.

His professional success and the acceptance of Heinrich

Moser in social circles contrasted sharply with his private

life, which was at times overshadowed by considerable

disappointments. The premature death of his first wife

Charlotte, née Mayu, in 1850 thus curtailed Moser’s oth-

erwise seemingly inexhaustible creative power for a while.

She would not live to see the completion of the Charlot-

tenfels country estate near Schaffhausen, which had been

named after her. Heinrich Moser was similarly never able

to reconcile himself to the fact that his only son, Henri

Moser (1844–1923), never took up the reins of his father’s

watch business.

Heinrich Moser died on 23 October 1874. Present-day

visitors to Schaffhausen continue to experience the spirit

of Heinrich Moser. The house

where he was born, known as the

«Haus zum Blauen Himmel», and

the Charlottenfels country manor

still exist. A modern power station

now stands on the dam on the Riv-

er Rhine. The majority of the com-

panies founded by or with the sup-

port of Heinrich Moser are

operating successfully to this day.

The residents of Schaffhausen

have honoured their fellow citizen

by naming Moserstrasse after him,

with his bronze bust in the Moser-

garten park and, not least, with the Charlottenfels coun-

try estate, which is open to the public. The top floor of

this building now houses the Moser Family Museum,

with a watch room full of testimonies to his tireless crea-

tivity.

CHARLOTTENFELS COUNTRY MANOR

NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN, NOW THE SITE OF THE

FAMILY MUSEUM

WATCHMAKER’S WORKPLACE

IN THE WATCH ROOM

C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

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The fi rst internationally ac-

tive company founded by

Heinrich Moser in 1828 was

the St. Petersburg trading

company, H. Moser & Co.

From this name, he devel-

oped the company signature

in Latin and Cyrillic script,

which was almost always accompanied by a seal. In 1829,

he opened a watch factory in Le Locle under the name

«H. Moser & Cie» or also «H. Moser & Co.». These trade

marks were used as the standard signature on all the watch-

es supplied by Moser’s watch business until around 1918.

His watches were of the best quality, and Heinrich Moser

personally paid painstaking attention to purchasing only

from the best suppliers and producing at the highest level.

SIGNATORIES OF

H. MOSER & CIE

DATING FROM 1842

FABERGÉ TABLE CLOCK

WITH MOSER DOUBLE BARREL MOVEMENT

The range at times consisted of up to 70 different calibres.

Moser sold to the Imperial Court, to various princes and

to the armed forces. In Japan, China and Persia, but also

in Paris and New York: The name H. Moser & Cie stood

for quality and met the highest expectations throughout

the world.

Heinrich Moser also included

other watch companies among

his customers. For example, the

famous Fabergé table clocks

were equipped almost without

exception with movements pro-

duced by Moser; even at that

time, incidentally, these clocks

had two spring barrels arranged

in series.

COMPANY, BR AND NAME AND SEAL

C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

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Following Heinrich Moser’s death, his second wife Fanny

sold the two businesses with the proviso that they would

continue to operate under the name «H. Moser & Cie» or

«Heinrich Moser & Co.». In spite of this measure, it was

eventually no longer possible to assure the uniformity of

the company name. The style «Hy Moser & Cie» was evi-

dently also used in Le Locle. By 1979, the watch factory had

become a part of the Dixi Mechanique Group as «Hy Mo-

ser & Cie». Since then, the only trade in Moser watches has

been in the antique market.

BOXES OF MOVEMENT PARTS,

CA 1870 TO 1890,

LANGE COLLECTION, SCHAFFHAUSEN

The Russian operation had already been expropriated

without compensation in 1917 in the aftermath of the

October Revolution. Around the year 1920, the state-

owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» was formed in

Moscow from the remains of the Moser watch business-

es, from which a watch production facility of its own

would eventually emerge. Moser watches continued to be

regarded as synonymous with work of the highest quality

for some considerable time afterwards. In 1966, the gov-

ernment of what was the USSR presented one of its high-

ranking military officers with an original Moser pocket

watch in 18-carat gold, dating from the period before the

expropriation and bearing an engraved dedication for his

services to the implantation of communism. This watch is

now back in the company museum.

MINUTE REPEATER WITH

PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND

MOON PHASE, CA 1870

GOLD HUNTER POCKET WATCH H. MOSER & CIE,

IMPERIAL EAGLE IN COLOURED ENAMEL

C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

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Heinrich Moser’s only son had no surviving offspring,

and with his death in 1923, the name of Moser also died

out in this branch of the family.

Dr. Jürgen Lange and the great-grandson of Heinrich

Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, jointly with private in-

vestors, founded the Moser Schaffhausen AG watch

company in 2002. Dr. Jürgen Lange also registered the

original H. Moser & Cie brand again internationally.

The sites occupied by the company

today are located, according to

Heinrich Moser’s original plan, in

Schaffhausen and Neuhausen in the

immediate vicinity of the Rhine

Falls. To this day, however, the ex-

traordinary Moser watches are also

produced in the Swiss Jura.

Moser watches of the new era com-

bine horological passion with au-

thentic tradition.

THE FACTORY IN LE LOCLE,

BUILT AROUND 1900

PRESENT-DAY COMPANY BUILDING

IN NEUHAUSEN NEAR THE RHINE FALLS

Mechanical movements of the best quality, developed by

the company and used exclusively in its watches, combine

innovation with maximum customer benefit. Creative

and horological traditions ensure that the new watches

also have a high degree of brand recognition.

The story came full circle with the 200th anniversary of

Heinrich Moser’s birth in 2005: The H. Moser & Cie

brand has returned to Schaffhausen.

C O M P A N Y H I S T O R Y

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T U R N O F T H E M I L L E N N I U M

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V I S I O N S 27

VISIONS

At the start of this century, the industrial pioneer Hein-

rich Moser, who is well known in the region above all for

his water constructions, came to the notice of the Schaff-

hausen horologist Dr. Jürgen Lange. He began to research

Moser’s life and in particular the history of the Moser

watchmaking dynasty and its watches. He was especially

interested to discover the reason why the H. Moser & Cie

watch brand, highly sought-after in collectors’ circles,

could nowadays only be found in the antique market. In

the course of his investigations, Dr. Jürgen Lange came

across Roger Nicholas Balsiger, the great-grandson of

Heinrich Moser. Balsiger had already made a name for

himself as a family historian in numerous publications.

The meeting between the horological expert Dr. Jürgen

Lange and the internationally active banker Roger Ni-

cholas Balsiger proved to be an auspicious one. The two

men decided to revive the legendary H. Moser & Cie

watch brand. The brand was registered internationally,

and Moser Schaffhausen AG was launched as a watch-

making company in a joint venture with other investors.

A subsequent merger of horological engineering compa-

nies resulted in the formation of Moser Group AG, the

present trade mark owner. Roger Nicholas Balsiger today

holds the position of Honorary Chairman of the Board

of Directors, and Dr. Jürgen Lange has operational re-

sponsibility for the business.

ESCAPEMENT MODULE

ON A SEPARATE CARRIER PLATE

LINE DRAWING OF THE

MONARD MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 343.505

MONARD MOVEMENT ON THE

ASSEMBLY WORKSTATION

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M O S E R P E R P E T UA L 1

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The «Double Pull Crown» mechanism makes it easier to

locate the central position of the crown for setting the

date. It effectively prevents the inadvertent adjustment of

the hands with the crown in its outermost position.

The rapidly and easily interchangeable escapement mod-

ule provides enhanced ease of servicing. This module was

used for the first time by Moser and assists the watch-

maker to reduce the length of the service times.

Another exclusive and unique feature is the execution of

the pallet fork and the escapement wheel in hardened

solid gold.

A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8

mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed

side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-

through sapphire glass back give the watch its unmistak-

able appearance.

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

MONTH DISPLAY FROM THE CENTRE

USING THE HOUR INDICES

A mechanical watch with a perpetual calendar, of a kind

never previously seen: the Moser Perpetual 1. Distin-

guished with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the

most prestigious and coveted award of the Swiss horo-

logical industry.

This extraordinary watch of the new generation is eq-

uipped with the Moser double barrel and possesses a

minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound.

The perpetual calendar, coordinated by purely mechani-

cal means to the various lengths of the months and the

leap year, captivates with the unique clarity of its display.

Only the easily legible, big date on the dial and the dis-

play of the month by a small hand from the centre of the

dial reveal to the connoisseur what an horological mas-

terpiece he has before him.

The display also referred to as the «Flash Calendar» pro-

vides for instantaneous changing of the date from the end

of the current month to the start of the following month,

without allowing any invalid numerals to appear in the

date window. This ensures the clear legibility of the date

at all times, without any irritating distractions.

If ever the date needs to be adjusted, this can be done

both forwards and backwards via the crown of the watch.

Adjustment is also possible when the watch is actually in

the process of changing the date. A unique safety mecha-

nism ensures that none of the delicate parts is damaged if

the watch changes to the next day while the wearer is ad-

justing the date backwards via the crown.

30

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MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501-004

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501-002

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

31M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1

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MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501-001

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501-006

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASPMOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 341.501

33M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1

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34

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.101-009

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

Page 35: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

The term «perpetual

calendar» is always ap-

plied to mechanical

watches when the date,

despite the different

lengths of the months,

is always correctly in-

dicated automatically.

Including when Febru-

ary has 29 days every

four years. The Moser

Cal. HMC 341.501 movement is a 7-day hand-wound

movement with a perpetual calendar, which is adjustable

forwards and backwards at any time without restriction

via the winding crown in its central position.

This perpetual calendar is known as the «Flash Calen-

dar», because it possesses the world’s only date display

which changes directly from the last day of the current

month to the first day of the following month without

displaying invalid days; regardless of whether the month

has 30, 31, 28 or 29 days.

In spite of its complicated mechanism, the Flash Calen-

dar is only recognizable on the dial by the big date display

and by the very restrained design of the central hand for

the display of the month with reference to the twelve in-

dices for the hours.

The date can be adjusted via the patented «Double Pull

Crown» mechanism, which permits the crown to be set

reliably in the right position.

The display for the leap year cycle of 4 years is visible on

the movement side of the watch through the convex sap-

phire glass back. The indicator star for the leap year cycle

can be adjusted as required by means of an unobtrusive

pin pusher on the outside of the case.

35M O S E R P E R P E T U A L 1

PERPETUAL CALENDAR AND FL ASH CALENDAR

THE FLASH CALENDAR NEVER

DISPLAYS ANY INVALID DAYS

IDE VIEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE GOLD CASE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1

WITH THE BUTTON FOR ADJUSTING THE LEAP YEAR STAR

LEAP YEAR STAR

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P E R P E T UA L M O O NP E R P E T UA L M O O N

Page 38: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

A special watch with a display of the phases of the moon,

which deviates by only 1 day after more than 1,027 years.

It shows the phases of the moon as seen in the Northern

hemisphere in a large window on the dial. We see various

phases of the moon depending on the relative positions

of the moon and the sun. The phases are depicted in a

unique way on this watch, and can be adjusted, read and

predicted accurately to the minute. One orbit of the

moon round the earth, which brings the moon back to its

original position in relation to the sun, takes on average

29.53059 days. To be precise, 29 days, 12 hours, 44 min-

utes and 2.9 seconds. The Perpetual Moon’s complicated

gear train translates this interval so precisely that the re-

sulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day – or one

day after 1,027.3 years.

The moon phase disc shows the currently illuminated

phase of the moon as the light area in the window aper-

ture. The dark area, on the other hand, represents the

shadow of the earth. Together they make up the astro-

nomical phases of the moon, which all over the world are

divided into eight quarters.

PHASES OF THE MOON

In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display ac-

curacy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the

hour indicator and run with it continuously. Neverthe-

less, the moon phase can also be corrected using a pin

pusher at 9 o’clock without interfering with the time dis-

play. A wrap spring clutch – used here for the first time in

a moon phase gear train – allows the time to be displayed

and the phase of the moon to be corrected without inter-

ruption. The pin pusher moves one of the 8 moon phases

forward on each occasion.

Additional orientation between day and night is provided

by a reduced display with a small central hand rotating

once every 24 hours. Together with a moon phase table

and the time setting appropriate for a particular phase of

the moon, the current moon phase can be set accurately

to the minute. The scale on the lower edge of the moon

phase display lets you predict to the day when the next

full moon phase will occur. Each mark on the scale rep-

resents a day.

A three-part, round designer case in precious metal, 40.8

mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, with freely formed

side surfaces, discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-

through sapphire glass back, together with the night-blue

fumé dial, give the watch its unmistakable appearance.

38

1 NEW MOON 5 FULL MOON

2 WAXING CRESCENT MOON 6 WANING GIBBOUS MOON

3 FIRST QUARTER MOON 7 LAST QUARTER MOON

4 WAXING GIBBOUS MOON 8 WANING CRESCENT MOON

Page 39: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

39P E R P E T U A L M O O N

PERPETUAL MOON

REFERENCE NO. 348.901-015

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPLAY

MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASP

PERPETUAL MOON

REFERENCE NO. 348.901-013

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

PERPETUAL MOON PHASE DISPLAY

MOON PHASE ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA A PIN PUSHER INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLUE FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

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Page 41: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

P E R P E T U A L M O O N

To achieve the longest possible power reserve, the design-

ers have incorporated no fewer than two barrels into the

movement. These are arranged in tandem, so that the

power reserve is multiplied up to at least seven days com-

pared with only a single barrel.

The actual winding springs are made from an unbreaka-

ble and corrosion-resistant Nivafl ex material with a self-

lubricating surface.

In order to keep the wearer informed at all times of the

power reserve of the watch, a differential gear is con-

nected to the barrels. This gear ensures that the ring for

the power reserve display on the movement side moves to

the right when the watch is running normally. When the

watch is wound, however, the ring for the power reserve

display will move to the left. This means that the actual

status of both winding springs in the barrels is always in-

dicated.

Noblesse oblige: both barrels from Moser are supported

in screwed gold mounts. The

gold mount itself is fi xed in

the barrel bridge by three

bright-polished steel screws.

These screws are not blued,

but white, as has always been

the case with Moser.

One of the distinctive features of the Perpetual Moon is

the seconds hand originating from the centre of the mo-

tion work. This has the advantage that the individual,

one-second steps can be read more accurately thanks to

the great length of the hand.

The time can be set accurately to the second via the crown

with the help of the hacking second.

CENTRE SECONDS MOSER DOUBLE BARREL

CENTRE SECONDS HAND AND 24-HOUR INDICATOR ORIGINATING FROM THE CENTRE

WHEEL TRAIN WITH DOUBLE BARREL

MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 348.901

SCREWED GOLD MOUNT

41

Page 42: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

M O N A R D

Page 43: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

M O N A R D

Page 44: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

A classic watch with just three hands to indicate the time,

but incorporating a movement that is full of convincing

innovations and timeless beauty: the Monard from Moser.

The fascination of this watch lies in its puristic appearance

and the renunciation of all fashionable special effects.

Moser would not be Moser, however, if a hint of the spirit

of the age, represented here by a case which is 40.8 mm in

diameter and 10.85 mm thick, had not found a place in the

watch.

The typically three-dimensional Moser hands, in conjunc-

tion with the very clear layout of the dial with a sun pat-

tern ground finish, ensure excellent legibility of the time.

The centre seconds symbolizes both the passage of time

and the function of the watch. Setting the watch accu-

rately to the second is possible in conjunction with the

hacking second when adjusting the hands.

The Monard is equipped with the Moser double barrel for

a minimum power reserve of seven days when fully wound

and incorporates a power reserve display that is visible

through the sapphire glass back on the movement side.

MONARD

An additional highlight of this exclusive watch is the use

of an escapement module, a world-first. Its easy inter-

changeability helps to reduce the time required for adjust-

ment when cleaning and servicing the watch.

The patented execution of the escapement wheel and pal-

let fork in hardened solid gold with highly polished work-

ing surfaces to minimize friction is also an expression of

the constant endeavour by the watchmakers at Moser to

make something that is already special into something

exceptional.

The Cal. HMC 343.505 movement of the Monard was

developed in-house as a hand-wound movement with true

bevel wheels in the winding part and is used exclusively by

Moser. The bevel wheels and the extremely efficient Mo-

ser tooth system used throughout the wheel train counter-

act wear and in so doing ensure a long service life.

All movements are individually numbered on the barrel

bridge and are recorded in the ledgers at Moser Schaff-

hausen AG. The seal on the movement, the screwed gold

mounts and the special Moser ground stripes are an ex-

pression of the watchmaker’s art at its most accomplished.

44

Page 45: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-012

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-013

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

M O N A R D 45

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Page 47: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-017

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-015

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE

M O N A R D 47

MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 343.505

Page 48: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

48

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-018

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-019

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

Page 49: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

49

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.506-016

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.506

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PALLADIUM BUCKLE

M O N A R D

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M O N A R D DAT EM O N A R D DAT E

Page 52: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

MONARD DATE

Timelessly elegant in appearance with centre seconds and

a big date display: the Monard Date from Moser.

The Double Pull Crown mechanism makes it easy to lo-

cate the date adjustment position on the winding crown.

As a result, adjustment of the different lengths of the

months is performed with truly effortless ease, without

inadvertently changing the time.

A power reserve of at least seven days when fully wound

is assured by the Moser double barrel that is connected in

series. The actual power reserve of the watch is indicated

via a differential gear on the movement side and is visible

through the large sapphire glass back.

As in all the other models, the complete wheel train of

the watch is executed with a special Moser tooth system,

which has been designed to provide optimal torque trans-

mission and a long service life. This ensures that the

watch continues to show the time reliably, even after run-

ning for a long period.

Screwed gold mounts, into which synthetic ruby jewel

bearings are pressed, complete the equipment of this ex-

traordinary watch.

The interchangeable escapement module typical of Mo-

ser also ensures ease of servicing for the Monard Date. It

is used by Moser for the first time in the world and helps

to reduce the time required for adjustment when cleaning

and servicing the watch.

A further exclusivity is the patented execution of the pal-

let fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold

with polished working surfaces. The ruby pallets of the

pallet fork slide on the escapement wheel with low fric-

tion. The watch is subjected to less wear, and its function

is more reliable.

A three-part case made of precious metal, 40.8 mm in

diameter and 10.85 mm thick, with a discreetly convex

sapphire glass encloses this special manufactory move-

ment. Freely formed flanks on the bracelet lugs give the

watch an individual, refined appearance. The sapphire

glass see-through back permits an uninterrupted view of

the bridges with their characteristic Moser ground stripes.

The seal, already familiar to all collectors and featured on

the historic watches as a guarantee of authenticity, is also

visible through the sapphire glass back.

52

Page 53: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

MONARD DATE

REFERENCE NO. 342.502-003

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

BIG DATE

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD DATE

REFERENCE NO. 342.502-002

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

BIG DATE

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

M O N A R D D A T E 53

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Page 55: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

DIAL OF THE CAL. HMC 342.502

MOVEMENT WITH THE TWO DATE RINGS

LYING ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER

MONARD DATE

REFERENCE NO. 342.502-005

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

BIG DATE

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE

MONARD DATE

REFERENCE NO. 342.502-001

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

BIG DATE

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

M O N A R D D A T E 55

Page 56: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

MONARD DATE

REFERENCE NO. 342.502-007

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

BIG DATE

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

MONARD DATE

REFERENCE NO. 342.502-006

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 342.502

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

BIG DATE

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

56

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THE BIG DATE FROM MOSER

The Monard Date capti-

vates with its elegance and

with the big date change

displayed at 6 o’clock in

the date window. As with

the Moser Perpetual 1, this

is in the form of two rings

lying one on top of the

other. These are the upper

ring with the numbers 1 to 15 and beneath

it the ring with the numbers 16 to 31. This

enables the use of significantly larger num-

bers than if 31 positions were to be present

on only a single ring.

However, a further advantage is associated

with this special design with two rings:

Regardless of the size of each individual

digit, it is always centred in the middle of

the window. This also applies to the single

digits 1 to 9. If the date were to consist of

two individual digits, as in a big date display, a leading

zero or a blank panel would always be visible for single-

digit numbers. This is one reason why Moser does not

favour this solution.

The date change of the Monard Date jumps forward by

one day within one second at midnight every day and can

be adjusted as required by hand via the crown depending

on the length of the month, regardless of whether the

movement itself is changing at the same time.

The ability to adjust the date backwards at any time is

also a matter of course for Moser. An intricately designed

clutch separates the movement from the adjustment

mechanism and in so doing ensures that nothing unfore-

seen occurs.

DATE ADJUSTMENT

VIA THE CROWN

THE BIG

MOSER DATE

M O N A R D D A T E 57

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M E R I D I A NM E R I D I A N

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M E R I D I A NM E R I D I A N

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A very elegant watch with automatic movement and alter-

nating 12- and 24-hour display. The Moser Meridian com-

bines well-known and popular complications with a spe-

cial innovation: a display which changes automatically

from 12 to 24 hours on an ordinary, familiar dial.

The prominent window at the top of the dial displays a 12

in the morning of home time. At midday, this display

changes within the space of a second to read 24. Within

the home region, a different-coloured and somewhat

smaller hand of a different time zone (destination time)

is simply hidden under the normal hour hand and so

moves along with it unseen.

To display the time of another time zone (destination

time), the coloured hour hand which is normally hidden

is adjusted in steps of one hour by means of the crown in

its central position. The unique Moser Double Pull

Crown system allows the central position to be easily lo-

cated without the watch being inadvertently stopped or

the current time being changed.

MERIDIAN

The required number of hours forward or back can be set

and the coloured hand shows the corresponding time.

Home time can still be read as usual. The display in the

window which changes at noon shows whether it is morn-

ing or afternoon in the home time zone.

Thus in far-flung parts of the world it is always possible to

check home time easily in the usual way, without having

to think about whether it is AM or PM there.

With a power reserve of 72 hours, i.e. three full days, the

Moser automatic movement, with its characteristic off-

centre pocket-watch style seconds display, is one of the

longest-running models available. The solid gold rotor

transfers its energy to a highly efficient pawl winding sys-

tem, whose large barrel ensures the very long power re-

serve. The accuracy of this extraordinary watch is assured

by Moser’s characteristic interchangeable escapement.

And, naturally, it also comes with a Straumann Hair-

spring®, produced in-house, Breguet overcoil and pallet

fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold.

60

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MERIDIAN

REFERENCE NO. 346.121-023

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121

SECOND TIME zONE DISPLAY

12- AND 24-HOUR DISPLAY

AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT

POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASPMERIDIAN

REFERENCE NO. 346.121-024

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 346.121

SECOND TIME zONE DISPLAY

12- AND 24-HOUR DISPLAY

AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT

POWER RESERVE OF AT LEAST 3 DAYS WHEN FULLY WOUND

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM FOLDING CLASP

61M E R I D I A N

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The Moser Meridian uses a completely new system of al-

ternating display to indicate morning (AM) and afternoon

(PM): the 24-hour slide. This is a part of a sophisticated

gear train which allows itself to move back and forth, se-

cured by the means of a Maltese cross. The slide contains

only the numbers 1, 2 and 4. The digit 2 in the centre of

the slide is used to display both 12 and 24.

This is achieved by either the digit 4 being hidden to the

right of the window in the dial, giving the representation

of ‘12’, or the slide moving to the left, hiding the 1 under

the dial, resulting in ‘24’ showing in the upper window

of the dial in the afternoon.

An ingeniously simple solution, showing the 12 hours of

morning and the same number of hours in the afternoon,

without needing to change the arrangement on the dial.

And, as with any seemingly simple solution, behind the

dial lies a highly sophisticated and complex example of

horological craftsmanship.

As you would expect from Moser, the change of display

from 12 to 24 at noon takes only a second to complete.

The watchmakers have achieved this by using a spring

which gains tension over a period of about eight hours

without affecting the workings of the rest of the move-

ment. At noon, the power of the spring is released at once

to achieve the rapid movement of the slide.

ALTERNATING 12- AND 24-HOUR DISPL AY

M E R I D I A N

DIAL

CAL. HMC 346.121

MECHANISM FOR THE 12- AND

24-HOUR DISPLAY

63

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With the appearance of the Meridian model, devotees of

the H. Moser & Cie brand will no longer need to pose the

question they occasionally ask: «When will we see the

first watch with automatic winding?»

It took the master watchmakers at Moser five years before

they were ready to give the signal that a completely new

watch movement was fit to be launched on the market.

Exhaustive tests and in-depth research into principles,

materials and construction details were undertaken be-

fore the new movement could be unveiled to the public.

As always, the masterly automatic movement, developed

especially for this extraordinary watch, reveals its special

features only on close examination. The see-through sap-

phire glass back of the watch allows you to marvel at the

large, solid gold rotor as it goes about its winding work.

The energy from its movement is transferred to the barrel

by means of a pawl winding system which is consistently

effective regardless of its direction of turn. A large lubri-

cant-free ball bearing with maintenance-free ceramic

bearing balls and cantilever-mounted ratchet wheel en-

sure very low friction.

AUTOMATIC PAWL WINDING SYSTEM

M E R I D I A N

MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 346.121

WINDING MECHANISM

PAWLS AND PAWL WHEEL

65

This has the great benefit that, when worn, the watch

continuously gains more power than it uses. This com-

bined with the extra-large barrel means that the Meridi-

an’s energy reserve when fully wound is guaranteed to be

72 hours, or three full days. If it is worn for about eight

hours a day after having stopped, it will usually regain

fully-wound status within four days of wearing.

The high efficiency of the Moser pawl winding system is

partly attributable to the fact that it is wound up by move-

ment of the rotor in either direction. One of the two

pawls turns the pawl wheel on pull, the other on push. A

torque brace is provided to ensure that the pawl does not

buckle or break under the resultant tension. The materials

of the pawls and the pawl wheel are matched and produce

minimum wear.

These technical specifications underline the exclusive so-

phistication of another elegant Moser watch, which, like

all the watches from H. Moser & Cie, does not rely on

mass-produced movement components but combines the

finest materials with the highest levels of intricacy and

functionality. Only a steel bearing ball from a standard

ball bearing and the ceramic bearing balls for the rotor

are mass-produced.

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M AY UM AY U

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A fine, elegant watch with a certain hint of understate-

ment: the Mayu from Moser.

The name of the watch is a tribute to Heinrich Moser’s

first wife, Charlotte Mayu. The family seat, Charlotten-

fels manor near Schaffhausen, was also named after her.

A timepiece with a decidedly elegant design: As a me-

chanical watch with a height of only 9.3 mm and with a

diameter of 38.8 mm, it is not too large for contemporary

tastes. The watchmakers at Moser have nevertheless suc-

ceeded in accommodating a large barrel in this volume.

The result is a power reserve of 80 hours, which ensures

that the watch will continue to run for at least three days

even without winding.

The harmonious design of the dial is particularly en-

hanced by the rare, large pocket watch seconds hand.

Drawing on pocket watches for its inspiration, the lower

end of this subsidiary seconds display sits as close as pos-

sible to the minute ring. This position can only be

achieved with a large movement designed specifically for

the purpose without a movement retaining ring. The

Mayu’s Cal. 321.503 movement thus exhibits an imposing

diameter of 32 mm. This corresponds quite closely to 14

lines in horological terms.

MAYU

Applied, facetted and diamond-polished indices, but also

the dial with its sun pattern ground finish, play with the

reflected sunlight.

The three-dimensional hands, which are used only in

Moser watches, are optimally adapted to the dimensions

of the watch in both length and form.

In this watch, too, the interchangeable escapement mod-

ule used for the first time by Moser offers high exclusivi-

ty. It guarantees that the watch will retain its value and

helps to reduce the time taken for the cleaning and servic-

ing required by all mechanical watches about every five

years. Another world-first is the execution of the pallet

fork and escapement wheel in hardened solid gold with

functionally optimized surfaces to minimize friction and

the associated wear.

The Mayu has a three-part case made of precious metal

with a discreetly convex sapphire glass and a see-through

sapphire glass back.

68

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MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-005

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-012

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

69M A Y U

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71M A Y U

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-007

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 321.503

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-003

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PLATINUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE

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72

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-015

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

LIGHT BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-016

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

DARK BROWN DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B15

BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B16

BEzEL SET WITH 64 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

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73M A Y U

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B14

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

LIGHT ROSE-COLOUR MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B13

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

84 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

Page 74: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-B05

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

74

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 325.503-010

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 325.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN PALLADIUM

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PALLADIUM BUCKLE

Page 75: Moser Catalogue III_English_Baselworld 2012_novelties

The wheel train of the Mayu watches relies on centuries-

old proven principles for its basic design. A couple of de-

tails: an eight-day wheel is included between the barrel

and the great wheel, because the great wheel rotates under

the barrel. The third wheel and the fourth wheel are ar-

ranged beneath a common bridge, which permits close

tolerances in the interests of high efficiency.

The staff of the fourth wheel carries the seconds hand of

the subsidiary seconds display on the dial side. At the

same time, the fourth wheel also acts as the mechanical

interface with the escapement module.

By pulling it out into the second position, the winding

crown of the Mayu is also used to adjust the hands. To

enable this to be done accurately to the second, the watch

also has a hacking second.

As the crown is pulled out, a stop spring is positioned

against the weight compensation

screws of the balance and holds it

securely. This causes the watch to

stop, although the balance spring

remains under tension. When the

crown is pushed back into the nor-

mal position, the stop spring re-

leases the balance once more and

the watch starts to run immedi-

ately.

To show the power reserve availa-

ble at any time, Mayu watches

with a see-through back have a display on the movement

side. This indicates the fully-wound state in the «UP»

position and, after three days, it will have covered about

two-thirds of the distance in the «DOWN» direction.

WHEELS, PINIONS AND LEVERS HACKING SECOND

POWER RESERVE

DISPLAY

MAYU WHEEL TRAIN

M A Y U 75

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H E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N GH E N RY D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

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An exceptional tonneau watch with a Straumann Double

Hairspring: the Henry Double Hairspring from Moser

with an exclusive rectangular-shaped movement.

An exemplary innovation for the oscillating system, the

most complicated component of the mechanical watch,

gives this movement its particular charisma. The legen-

dary elegance of a Moser watch is combined here with a

unique escapement designed to exclude gravitational er-

ror. Two Straumann balance springs manufactured as a

matched pair, which oscillate against one another and by

so doing prevent the gravitational error of an escapement

from occurring in the first place. Self-compensating and

antimagnetic, of course. This system requires mastery of

the manufacture of the balance springs – from the melt-

ing of the alloy to the finished spring – with in-house

technology and precision. This prerequisite is met within

Moser Group AG with utmost dedication.

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

A new escapement and a superlative horological achieve-

ment, which naturally does not sacrifice the interchange-

ability that is typical of Moser escapements.

Set in a well-proportioned case measuring 44.1 mm long

by 38.6 mm wide by 10.4 mm high, this latest masterpiece

of the watchmaker’s art from Moser has a power reserve

of at least four days when fully wound. Exclusive and

unique to Moser, the execution of the pallet fork and the

escapement wheel in hardened, solid white gold is also

retained as a distinguishing feature of the Moser escape-

ment with Straumann Double Hairspring.

78

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HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607-002

MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

RHODIUM-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN WHITE GOLD

SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607-004

MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN ROSE GOLD

SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

79H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

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HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607-006

MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

ARDOISE SLATE DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PLATINUM

SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PLATINUM BUCKLE

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607-005

MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN RED GOLD

SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID RED GOLD BUCKLE

MOVEMENT

CAL. HMC 324.607

81H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

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82

HENRY DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

REFERENCE NO. 324.607-003

MOSER RECTANGULAR-SHAPED MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 324.607

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

LARGE-VOLUME BARREL, MIN. 4-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

SOLID WHITE GOLD

FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, TONNEAU CASE IN PALLADIUM

SAPPHIRE GLASS, DISCREETLY CONVEX IN 2 DIRECTIONS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID PALLADIUM BUCKLE

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H E N R Y D O U B L E H A I R S P R I N G

Using an escapement with Straumann Double Hair-

spring, which is installed in all of the Henry models,

Moser has succeeded in preventing the gravitational error

before it even occurs. The result is more stable accuracy

in all positions.

In this escapement, two balance springs manufactured as

a matched pair are arranged so that they oscillate against

one another. This causes the centres of gravity of the two

springs to move outwards and inwards on opposing sym-

metrical paths as they oscillate. The cumulative centre of

gravity of the two springs thus remains at the centre of the

arbor at all times, and as such has no negative influence

on the accuracy of the watch.

STR AUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

Clearly, producing such a complicated escapement mod-

ule requires mastery of the whole balance spring produc-

tion process – from melting the material right through to

completing the finished spring. Together with its associ-

ate company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie

developed the Straumann Hairspring® based on the for-

mula used by the inventor of Nivarox, Prof. Dr. h.c. Re-

inhard Straumann. This ensures the necessary homoge-

neity of the material’s mechanical properties.

Furthermore, the springs are manufactured so consist-

ently that they are even able to ensure uniform compen-

sation for any elasticity in the presence of temperature

fluctuations. This ensures that the centre of gravity does

not wander from the centre of the arbor even when the

temperature changes.

SCREW BALANCE WITH

STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

83

ESCAPEMENT MODULE WITH

STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

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L I M I T E D C O L L E C TO R S E D I T I O N S

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86

THE L IMITED COLLECTORS EDIT IONS FROM MOSER

Limited editions of individual watches symbolize a spe-

cial event, particular techniques or unusual horological

solutions. This is also true of Moser.

It is now more than five years since the Moser Perpetual 1,

set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds, was introduced to mark

the international relaunch of the H. Moser & Cie brand in

2005. With its specially formed bezel, it lends itself per-

fectly to mounting with selected diamonds. This watch,

incidentally, also saw the introduction of the now legen-

dary «Flash Calendar».

With the Moser Perpetual 1 Golden Edition, the Moser

master watchmakers have shown in 2011 what they are

capable of achieving. A movement almost entirely in

18-carat gold with the world’s only fully functional dia-

mond end stones in a shock-absorber. Dial, hands, pallet

fork and escapement wheel – all in solid gold. A truly

superlative watch.

Other collectors editions include the Monard and Mayu

models with genuine «grand feu» enamel dials. This is an

enamelling skill that appeared almost to have died out.

The watchmakers at Moser were determined to create a

limited edition before mastery of this technique of coat-

ing metal with vitreous enamel in a furnace is lost.

The Zarenadler (Imperial eagle) Mayu came about for a

different reason: On the one hand there was a desire to

refer to the roots of the company in Imperial Russia, and

on the other hand Moser’s master engravers wished to

demonstrate that they were still able to carry out the ex-

quisite art of relief engraving in a masterly manner. For

once, the sapphire glass back of a Mayu model was re-

placed by a solid gold case back, which depicts the two-

headed Russian Imperial eagle set with brilliant-cut dia-

monds.

The yellow gold Mayu with ivory-coloured lacquered dial

is also a special edition. Here the authentic, subsidiary

pocket watch seconds hand of all Mayu and Perpetual

models is brought to the fore. It is positioned next to the

minute ring, as in the historic examples of pocket watch-

es. This is indeed a rarity, because it calls for a specially

designed movement without the customary movement

retaining ring.

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MOSER PERPETUAL 1

REFERENCE NO. 341.501-B04

LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.501

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY TIME

VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SILVER-PLATED DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

SET WITH 76 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

87L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION

REFERENCE NO. 341.101-008

LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 341.101

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY

PERPETUAL FLASH CALENDAR DISPLAY

CALENDAR ADJUSTABLE FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS AT ANY

TIME VIA THE CROWN INDEPENDENTLY OF THE MOVEMENT

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

WITH STRAUMANN DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

PLATE AND BRIDGES IN 18-CARAT ROSE GOLD

2 FUNCTIONAL DIAMOND END STONES

IN THE INCABLOC SHOCK-ABSORBER

WHITE SAPPHIRE JEWEL BEARING UNDER THE END STONE

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

SOLID GOLD FUMÉ DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

HANDS AND INDICES IN 18-CARAT ROSE GOLD

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD FOLDING CLASP

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88

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-L02

LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

WHITE ENAMEL DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN WHITE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID WHITE GOLD BUCKLE

SOLD OUT

MONARD

REFERENCE NO. 343.505-L11

LIMITED EDITION OF 200 PIECES

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 343.505

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

DOUBLE BARREL, MIN. 7-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK ENAMEL DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

SOLD OUT

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MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 321.503-004

LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 321.503

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

POWER RESERVE DISPLAY ON THE MOVEMENT SIDE

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

IVORY-COLOURED LACQUERED DIAL

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

SEE-THROUGH SAPPHIRE GLASS BACK

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID YELLOW GOLD BUCKLE

SOLD OUT

MAYU

REFERENCE NO. 322.504-LB04

LIMITED EDITION OF 50 PIECES

MOSER MOVEMENT CAL. HMC 322.504

HAND-WOUND WITH TRUE BEVEL WHEELS

MIN. 3-DAY POWER RESERVE

MOSER TOOTH SYSTEM IN WHEEL TRAIN AND PINIONS

HACKING SECOND

MOSER INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT

ORIGINAL STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH STABILIzED BREGUET OVERCOIL

PALLET FORK AND ESCAPEMENT WHEEL MADE OF

HARDENED SOLID GOLD

BLACK DIAL WITH SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

THREE-PART, ROUND CASE IN ROSE GOLD

SET WITH 64 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

DISCREETLY CONVEX SAPPHIRE GLASS

HAND-ENGRAVED SOLID GOLD CASE BACK WITH

25 TOP WESSELTON BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS

ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP

WITH SOLID ROSE GOLD BUCKLE

89L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S

HAND-ENGRAVED TWO-HEADED IMPERIAL EAGLE

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T E C H N I C A L D E TA I L S

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92

TEAM SPIRIT AND SPECIALISTS

Heinrich Moser’s visionary views are recorded in many of

his letters. They also contain principles which remain

valid to this day.

If you want to build the best watches, you must go to the

best suppliers for the individual components. Only these

specialist, whose knowledge has been passed down

through the generations, are actually in a position to

transform their craftsmanship into real watch parts. Only

by working with them, in their environment, with their

networks and their particular strengths, are such peak

performances still achievable.

That is certainly one of the reasons why

Heinrich Moser’s watchmaking business

was already established in Le Locle in 1828,

and why most components are still made in

the Swiss Jura.

But there is also a machine room at the headquarters in

Neuhausen near the Rhine Falls, home to the top

specialists in the production of the finest and most

accurate precision components. Technologies, tools,

mechanisms and processes are developed here that stretch

technology to its very limits. This expertise and these

processes are then passed on to the traditional supplier

for incorporation into its series production. It is only in

this way and in close cooperation with these specialists

that H. Moser & Cie is today in a position to accomplish

true innovations and world-firsts for the benefit of its

customers all around the globe.

H. Moser & Cie has no aspirations to be a manufactory.

Nevertheless, a great deal of horological know-how and

technological expertise exist in the Moser Group, so that

the Moser movements can be described justifiably as pure

manufactory movements. The watches themselves also

merit manufactory status, because they are assembled by

hand.

In view of the extreme dimensions and tolerances, the

individual parts of the watches are produced by machine

in most cases. Concessions would otherwise have to be

made in the quality of the movements. This would not be

compatible with the present-day opportunities, and not at

all with the ambitions of H. Moser & Cie.

GREAT WHEEL

WITH STAFF AND PINION

THE UNIQUE WINDING GEAR TRAIN

FROM MOSER WITH CONICAL WHEELS

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0 1 2

Another world-first can be

found exclusively in the

Moser watches of the new

era: the Double Pull

Crown (DPC) mechanism.

DPC denotes the double

pull on the crown re-

quired in this mechanism

in order to move from

winding to adjustment of

the hands.

The intermediate position

for adjustment of the date

is relatively difficult to

«sense» with the custom-

ary detent function in all

watches without DPC. As

often as not, the crown is

pulled out too far, and the

time is then adjusted un-

intentionally instead of

the date.

The DPC mechanism patented by Moser can be found in

all Moser watches with additional displays and ensures

that merely the position for date adjustment, for instance,

is reached by pulling out the crown once until it stops.

Only by then releasing the crown briefly, if necessary by

giving it a light tap, and pulling it out once more until it

stops is the crown able to move to the position for adjust-

ing the hands.

Errors when adjusting the date or additional displays are

now a thing of the past.

The master watchmakers at Moser have perfected even

the smallest details of a mechanical watch.

DOUBLE PULL CROWN ( DPC) MECHANISM

THREE POSITIONS OF

THE WINDING CROWN

DOUBLE PULL CROWN MECHANISM

93T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S

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THE STR AUMANN HAIRSPRING®

95T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S

The consistent oscillation of the balance spring, in con-

junction with the balance, is solely responsible for the

precise running and the accuracy of the watch. The Moser

development engineers have accordingly devoted a high

degree of attention to it. Working closely with its associ-

ate company, Precision Engineering AG, and drawing on

the know-how of Institut Straumann AG, the original

formula and technology of the legendary Nivarox mate-

rial have been reviewed. It was Prof. Dr. h.c. Reinhard

Straumann – the grandfather of our present Board mem-

ber, Dr. h.c. Thomas Straumann – who in 1931 developed

a fracture-resistant, self-compensating, corrosion-free

and antimagnetic alloy consisting of seven elements,

and applied for a patent for this invention.

The patent describes the first concrete formulation, which

exhibits the desired characteristics and also finds an ap-

plication in watches as a balance spring material. It is still

in use today, in slightly modified form, in practically all

high-quality, volume-produced movements with a me-

chanical oscillating system. A few years ago, Precision

Engineering AG, working jointly with H. Moser & Cie,

installed its own, complete production line, from melting

of the alloy to the finished escapement system.

THE PATENTS

FOR THE NIVAROX MATERIAL

OF REINHARD STRAUMANN

HAMMERING THE GLOWING

NIVAROX MATERIAL

SAWING THE INGOT

CRUCIBLE WITH

PE3000 NIVAROX MELT

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All escapement modules from H. Moser & Cie are

equipped exclusively with an in-house Straumann Hair-

spring®. In tribute to its inventor, the brand name Strau-

mann Hairspring® now benefits from international pro-

tection.

The precise combination of all the highest-grade materi-

als in the smelting charge and the processing of the raw

ingot with a diameter of about 20 cm and a weight of 80

kg into a wire with a diameter which is thinner than a

human hair demand technological expertise acquired

over the generations and the very best tools. Yet only the

final homogeneity of the wire and its ultra-precise rolling

from a round shape into a flat strip can provide the condi-

tions necessary for balance springs that are sufficiently

accurate for use in chronometers, self-compensating and

antimagnetic. The wire for the Straumann Hairspring®

springs is thus flat-rolled to an astounding accuracy of

0.1 thousandth of a millimetre.

And, once again, it is the skilled craftsmen and -women

who manage to thread four of these unbelievably thin

wires on to a tool, wind them into a spring assembly, treat

it in a high-vacuum furnace, and then separate it again to

produce the finished balance springs.

The régleuses at H. Moser & Cie then rivet the metal ring

on its inside, bend the Breguet overcoil by hand with

amazing precision, secure the outer end, and thus round

off their contribution to the many hundreds of processes

that go into making a balance spring.

FINISHED STRAUMANN HAIRSPRING®

WITH BREGUET OVERCOIL

96

ULTRA HIGH PRECISION ROLLING

OF THE PE3000 NIVAROX MATERIAL

WINDING THE 4 STRIPS INTO A

SPRING ASSEMBLY

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The watchmakers at Moser have concerned themselves

from the outset with innovation combined with high cus-

tomer benefit. In the watches of the new era, this finds

expression in one component in particular: the escape-

ment module that is interchangeable as a unit. This was

developed with a view to reducing the time taken for ad-

justment when cleaning and servicing the watch about

every 5 years. The watchmaker concerned removes the

complete module, cleans and oils the rest of the move-

ment and installs an already cleaned and adjusted mod-

ule. Job done.

At the same time, the escapement module itself is opti-

mized in line with the latest knowledge. There are no

longer any temperamental indices, for example. Adjust-

ment of the oscillating frequency of the balance is per-

formed via the cross-

slotted steel screws

around the periphery

of the balance. To

prevent these from

moving of their own

accord due to vibra-

tions, a slot has been made through the screw thread. As

a result, the screw is constantly under spring pressure and

is secured in this way. Just how difficult this is to manu-

facture will be appreciated when the diameter of the

screw holes is taken into consideration: a tiny 0.35 mm.

T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S 97

INTERCHANGEABLE ESCAPEMENT MODULE

The complete balance is a traditional screw balance with

weight compensation screws made of white gold and a

driver ellipse made of synthetic ruby; this is an aesthetic

work of art of a special kind in its own right. The materi-

als used in the balance and the balance spring are

matched to one another in such a way that fluctuations

in temperature have no noticeable effects on the accuracy

of the watch.

Since the balance has a relative-

ly high mass, it is protected

from shocks. The balance staff

has high-precision, roller-bur-

nished conical pivots and is car-

ried in a bearing with the capac-

ity to yield in the presence of

shocks and thus prevents frac-

ture of the pivots, which are

only 0.08 mm thick.

SPRING SLOT FOR

THE ADJUSTING SCREW

B A L A N C E W I T H P L A T E , E L L I P S E

A N D S T R A U M A N N H A I R S P R I N G ®

INTERCHANGEABLE

ESCAPEMENT MODULE

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A further important consideration for the accuracy is the

facility to adjust the pallet fork very precisely in conjunc-

tion with the escapement wheel. For this purpose, too,

the people at Moser have come up with something new:

the dragon lever.

This stop lever is supported in two eccentric screws, by

means of which the stop surfaces can be positioned very

precisely in relation to the pallet fork. Since the pallet

fork is made of gold and the dragon lever is made of brass,

any vibrations in conjunction with stopping are well

damped. The eccentrics are only accessible from below

via a slot, so they are no longer capable of adjustment

once the escapement module has been installed in the

movement.

Given all this horological love for detail, it is no surprise

to find that the balance spring is formed with a Breguet

overcoil. This overcoil is the only one to provide reliable

assurance that the centre of gravity of the spiral spring

will not be displaced as it oscillates, thereby creating un-

equal oscillation periods in different positions.

The pallet fork and escapement wheel are manufactured

by Moser from gold using a patented process. This offers

the particular advantage that the vertical working sur-

faces are generally executed with a glass-smooth finish.

The friction between the synthetic ruby escape pallets

and the club teeth of the escape-

ment wheel is reduced to a min-

imum in this way. Moser repeat-

edly used gold wheels in its

movements in the past.

THE DRAGON LEVER FOR ADJUSTING THE ESCAPEMENT TRAVEL

GOLD ESCAPEMENT WHEEL

WITH STEEL PINION

98

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MOVEMENT SIDE OF THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1

GOLDEN EDITION

WITH SOLID GOLD BRIDGES,

HAND-BEVELLED EDGES

AND SCREWED GOLD MOUNTS

THE CR AFTSMAN’S ART

The watchmaker’s art manifests itself not only through

technically accomplished solutions but also through the

individual features of the component parts that are

worked out with loving attention to detail. One example

of this is the sun pattern ground finish on the plates of all

Moser movements that is only visible to the watchmaker.

This is only revealed when the watch is completely dis-

mantled into its individual parts on the watchmaker’s

workbench.

A large number of Moser watches of the new era actually

feature a see-through sapphire glass back, through which

the beauty of the movements can be appreciated from the

outside. Bevelled and polished edges are visible in this

way, and the jewels sparkle in the light.

99

DIAL SIDE

CAL. HMC 343.505

CRAFTSMANSHIP

IN ITS FINEST FORM

T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S

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The dual ground stripes on the bridges that are so typical

of Moser and the fine gold engravings are as obvious as

the tireless oscillations of the screw balance.

Another entirely traditional Mo-

ser feature is the arrangement of

the third wheel and the fourth

wheel together beneath the same

train-wheel bridge, which exhibits

the typical convex form around

the jewel bearings. Also present on

the train-wheel bridge is the Hein-

rich Moser seal in gold, which

guarantees authenticity both in the

historic watches and in the watches

of the new era.

The exquisite relief engravings on

the solid gold case backs of our

limited collectors editions are testi-

mony to the artistry of individual

watchmakers at H. Moser & Cie,

masters of a craft which is now

only rarely seen due to its sheer

complexity.

MOSER GROUND STRIPES

AND GOLD ENGRAVINGS

PERFECTION IN RELIEF ENGRAVING

ON THE SOLID GOLD CASE BACKS

THE MOSER SEAL ON THE MONARD

TRAIN-WHEEL BRIDGE

100

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FINISHING

The finishing process only uses traditional craft methods.

No machine can produce a truly beautifully polished

chamfered edge on the bridges and plates. Manual work

is just as necessary here as it is for the polished finish and

the brushed surfaces of the case or the sun pattern ground

finish under the barrel. The typical Moser ground stripes

on the plates are also created using purely manual work.

The Swiss watchmaker’s art in its finest form in the

watches and movements of H. Moser & Cie is the result of

this unremitting quest for perfection.

SUN PATTERN GROUND FINISH

UNDER THE BARREL

ONE OF THE TWO DIAMOND END STONES

IN THE MOSER PERPETUAL 1 GOLDEN EDITION

T E C H N I C A L D E T A I L S 101

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TIMELINE

1730 Johannes Moser, grandfather of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. After an apprenticeship as a watch-

maker, he assumes the hereditary and honorary position of town watchmaker. He later becomes a Cantonal

Councillor.

1760 Erhard Moser, father of Heinrich Moser, is born in Schaffhausen. He succeeds his father in the position of town

watchmaker and is himself a member of the Cantonal Council.

1805 Johann Heinrich Moser is born on 12 December. He learns the traditional watchmaker’s craft from his father

between 1820 and 1824.

1824 Heinrich Moser continues his training in Le Locle, Switzerland, in the master watchmakers’ workshops in the

town. He rapidly gains respect as a skilled watchmaker, and he starts a small business to supply spare parts.

It only takes Moser about eighteen months to develop a reputation as an outstandingly talented specialist, and

he receives offers of work from Italy and Paris.

1826 Moser works on his own account for the first time by building clocks into cases and pieces of furniture.

1827 The prospects of good business draw Moser to St. Petersburg in Russia. After an adventurous journey by horse-

drawn coach and by sea, he nearly runs out of money. He starts work as a watchmaker in the local workshops.

1828 Moser opens the trading company H. Moser & Co. in St. Petersburg. This marks the hour of inception of what

would eventually grown into such a successful brand. Moser’s business flourishes, which can certainly be at-

tributed to the fact that the watches sold by him are supplied only in high quality. Not a single watch is allowed

to pass over the shop counter until it has been inspected personally by him or by one of his representatives.

1829 In order to maintain this claim to superior quality, Moser establishes a watch factory in Le Locle to produce

watches exclusively for his businesses in Europe and Russia.

1848 Moser, by now a wealthy merchant and watch manufacturer, decides to return to Schaffhausen with his family.

From this point on, he sees his true life’s work as the transformation of Schaffhausen, a very quiet town in those

days, into a lively and attractive industrial location. At the same time, he builds the magnificent Charlottenfels

country manor house for his family.

T I M E L I N E 103

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1851 Moser completes the construction of a canal on the Rhine, which supplies the water to drive a turbine generat-

ing about 80 hp.

1853 In a joint venture with other Schaffhausen personalities, Moser establishes Schweizerische Waggonfabrik bei

Schaffhausen (Swiss Wagonworks at Schaffhausen), which later changes its name to Schweizerische Indus-

triegesellschaft (SIG) Neuhausen (Swiss Industrial Company Neuhausen). Moser is a co-founder of the Schaff-

hausen–Winterthur railway line, also in 1853. Furthermore, he opens a workshop for the manufacture of watch

cases in Schaffhausen.

1860 The company archive of Jaeger-LeCoultre from this year lists Heinrich Moser as a customer. Over time, he

sources up to 64 different calibres, including 24 complications. The uncompromising quality of his watches

gains him access as a supplier to the Imperial Court, royal households and the armed forces. Within just a few

years, he is selling watches as far afield as Japan, China, Persia but also to the West, in Paris and New York.

1863/64 Heinrich Moser embarks on the construction of the largest Swiss dam on the Rhine, to supply neighbouring

industrial companies with inexpensive energy via a power transmission system. This hydroelectric power sta-

tion marks the start of the industrial age in Schaffhausen.

1868 Moser supports F. A. Jones in the foundation of the International Watch Company (IWC) by providing

premises and energy to drive the machines.

1874 Heinrich Moser dies on 23 October. His will names his second wife, Fanny Moser, as the heiress of all his busi-

ness interests.

1877 Fanny Moser sells the entire Russian trading operation to its managing director Winterhalter. The watch fac-

tory in Le Locle goes to Paul Girard. The contracts of sale stipulate that all successor companies must continue

to operate in perpetuity under the registered brand names of H. Moser & Cie or Heinrich Moser & Co.

1917 The Russian October Revolution completely eradicates the private watch market in the country that is domi-

nated by the Swiss watchmakers. The last of the Swiss Directors of the Moser company return to Switzerland

totally expropriated in early 1918. The business in Le Locle is unaffected by the political turmoil and carries on

as before, attempting to compensate for the loss of the Russian markets through increased exports to other

countries.

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Favourite Watch with Complication • 2006

MOSER PERPETUAL 1

1920 The State-owned «Central Watch Repair Workshop» in Moscow is formed from the remains of the Moser watch

businesses.

1953 Wristwatch production in Le Locle is expanded, and the proportion of pocket watches produced decreases

steadily. Some of the watches also bear the name «Henry Moser», in spite of this being in breach of the 1877

agreements.

1973 H. Moser & Co. is mentioned as a manufacturer of precision lever escapement watches and special watches,

predominantly in 18-carat gold and in cases set with precious stones. The quartz watch crisis that is widespread

in the Swiss watch industry also affects the business in Le Locle.

1979 The watch factory in Le Locle becomes part of the Dixi Mechanique Group and trades as «Hy Moser & Cie».

2002 The original brand of the founder, «H. Moser & Cie», is once more registered internationally by Dr. Jürgen

Lange. The Moser Schaffhausen AG watch company is launched jointly with representatives of the Moser fam-

ily. The great-grandson of Heinrich Moser, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, is today Honorary Chairman of Moser

Group AG.

2005 To mark the bicentenary of Heinrich Moser’s birth, the successor company Moser Schaffhausen AG, under the

H. Moser & Cie brand, once again launches a range of watches that are faithful to the legacy of the founding

father on the international watch arena.

2006 H. Moser & Cie introduces its four watch ranges, Moser Perpetual 1, Monard Date, Monard and Mayu, to a

broad public for the first time at «Baselworld 2006».

2006 Montre de l’année 2006 – 2nd prize for the Moser Perpetual 1. In the opinion of the professional jury of the

special-interest watch magazine, Montre Passion: «The classic case of the Perpetual 1 / Flash Calendar from

Moser conceals a highly innovative mechanical movement».

2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – Prix de la Montre Compliquée. In November 2006, H. Moser & Cie wins

one of the most highly coveted prizes of the Swiss horological industry. The Moser Perpetual 1 takes first place

in the complicated watches category.

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2007 «Baselworld 2007» is the venue where H. Moser & Cie introduces the Straumann Hairspring®, developed

jointly over several years with its associate company Precision Engineering AG, Schaffhausen, to an interna-

tional specialist audience.

2007 The new Henry Double Hairspring watch line, a tonneau watch with the revolutionary double hairspring es-

capement from Moser and a specially designed movement, is presented at «Baselworld 2007».

2007 Palladium, an extremely rare precious metal with a brilliantly radiant white lustre, also embraces the realm of

watches from H. Moser & Cie. The Mayu Palladium model is presented to the public.

2007 Moser Group AG is formed from Moser Schaffhausen AG. All the associate companies are now united under

a single roof. Moser Schaffhausen AG, Precision Engineering AG and MSG AG Manufacturing Support

Group together guarantee the independence, the considerable public success and the substantial growth of

the H. Moser & Cie brand.

2008 The H. Moser & Cie brand celebrates its 180th anniversary.

2008 The Mayu Black Pearl and Mayu White Pearl with mother-of-pearl dials and elegant stingray leather straps are

launched.

2008 The Mayu Palladium is equipped with the Straumann Double Hairspring escapement with capement wheel in

hardened white gold. An external indication of this is provided by the new colour used for the dial.

2009 Moser Group AG continues to invest in the verticalization of production for its group members. Around 70

jobs have now been created and an in-house production facility has been set up.

2009 In view of the great success of the highly elegant fumé dial, the Henry and Monard models are now made avail-

able in this design with a brilliant white palladium case with Straumann Double Hairspring escapement.

2009 A reproduction of the original book dating back to 1875 on the life of Heinrich Moser is produced in an exclusive

private edition. The book, which was written shortly after his death and which is rarely to be found in the original,

is now presented in a boxed set together with the translation into other languages, in modern typography.

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T I M E L I N E 107

2010 The multi-million investments by the Moser Group in expertise, longevity and growth are largely completed.

The Moser Group emerges strongly from the international financial crisis. H. Moser & Cie acts as principal

sponsor of a major equestrian event for the first time. The 4-star CSI Basel 2010 tournament achieves a spec-

tacular debut with outstanding international competitors and an exclusive programme of associated events.

2010 The Moser Perpetual Moon is unveiled. Another superlative watch with a moon phase display which can be set

accurately to the minute and can run over 1,000 years without adjustment.

2011 The CSI in Basel, the world’s best-endowed indoor show jumping competition, is awarded 5-star status, not least

because of the sponsorship of H. Moser & Cie. Moser celebrates this with the launch of the Monard Marrone.

2011 The Perpetual 1 Golden Edition is premiered. With solid gold fumé dial, gold hands and a movement with

solid gold plate and bridges, together with the interchangeable Straumann Double Hairspring escapement, it

releases a torrent of emotions, the high point being the world’s first functional diamond end stone in a shock-

absorber.

2011 The Moser Perpetual 1 Fumé Palladium is the first watch with a perpetual calendar combining the advantages

of the double hairspring escapement with the complexity of an elegant, quintessentially Moser watch.

2012 The first Moser watch with automatic movement is presented at «Baselworld 2012». With its innovative second

time zone, the Meridian range again underlines Moser’s expression of elegance and throws light on the meaning

of its maxim «passionately different».

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COPYRIGHT 2012 BY MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG

ALL PRODUCTS SHOWN OR MENTIONED IN THIS CATALOGUE MAY BE PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT.

FOR BRANDS WHICH DO NOT BELONG TO MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG, THE COPYRIGHT IS PROPERTY OF THE CORRESPONDING COMPANIES.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND AVAILABILITY OF ALL MODELS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE

MANFRED DUBACH, KATHARINA LOCHS, MARCEL STUDER,

SAMMLUNG HOMBERGER, CARL J. KOCH, STADTARCHIV SCHAFFHAUSEN

MANFRED DUBACH, KATHARINA LOCHS

DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

DUBACH.DIGITAL GMBH, GÄCHLINGEN

SONDEREGGER DRUCK AG, WEINFELDEN

SCHUMACHER AG, SCHMITTEN

MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG

MEMBER OF MOSER GROUP AG

RUNDBUCKSTRASSE 10, CH-8212 NEUHAUSEN AM RHEINFALL, SWITzERLAND

T +41 52 674 00 50, WWW.H-MOSER.COM

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