If we want to talk about Nivea Make-up, we should at first explain the beginnings of the mother brand. 1911: NIVEA Creme – the first stable water-in-oil emulsifier – is introduced in Hamburg, Germany. The emulsifying agent Eucerit is made from lanolin, found in sheep's wool, and is the key to NIVEA Creme's unique properties. The name is derived from the greek word “nivis”; meaning snow 1925: NIVEA is relaunched in blue packaging. The new design and communication lead to the crucial breakthrough for the NIVEA brand. The distinctive blue and white tin starts its successful history. The packaging is changed through the years and at the same time it changes, also the brand changes. Numerous subrands develop successfully out of the mother brand Nivea and make it a well-known brand worldwide. 1997: Nivea Beauté is launched in Belgium and France and internationally in 1998. The entire skin care expertise is used to develop decorative cosmetic.
May we
introduce
you…
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Presentation Notes
May we know introduce you…
Product
Development
NIVEA Make-Up Beiersdorf AG Hamburg
Beiersdorf R&D Center Hamburg Product Development LaboratoriesBDF Hamburg
The
development
process
Product
development
Finished
product
~1,5 years
New product
idea
Consumer
needs
1. Formula
development2. Colour development
3. Quality
assurance4. Upscaling
and production5. Efficacy
test
Presenter
Presentation Notes
There is a defined development process that we pass through for the make-up products. Once you have the idea for a new product and you consider the consumer needs, you can start the product development, consisting of 5 different steps. Starting with the formula development and the colour development you continue with the quality assurance followed by the upscaling and production and finish with the efficacy test. Normally you can then give the starting shot for the launch the product after more ore less 1,5 years. This is a much shorter time than for other healthcare products (up to 7 years) as make-up is much more connected to trends. The market is mooving fast and the products have to be adapted quicker. The three factors that are decisive for the development are - new and innovative product idea - meet the consumer needs - assure a high quality of the product not only concerning saftey and efficacy
Product
Development
Formula
development
Weight
in raw
materials Mixing
the
componts
(e.g.mascara)
Colour development
Foundation
colour rangeLipstick
colours
Nailpolish
colours
Presenter
Presentation Notes
During the formula development, we work in the laboratory and evaluate which raw materials will be needed in which quantity. The components are then mixed to gain the desired texture. During the colour development, different pigments are added to obtain different colours. The amount and composition of the pigments is decisive for the colours.
Quality
Assurance
Sample storage
at different temperatures
(-10, 6, 20, 25, 40, 50 °C)Measurement
of viscosity(e.g.mascara
& foundation)Measurement
of pH-Value(e.g. foundation)
Stability
methods
for
lipsticks Mascara
laboratory
bench
Presenter
Presentation Notes
During the quality assurance, we will assure that the quality of the product is well enough to resist. That means that we will store it at different temperatures, we will measure the viscosity as well as the pH-value and the stability. On the one hand we absolutely have to make sure that the product is agreeable for the consumer and on the other hand it must of course withstand in terms of durability.
Upscaling
& Production
20 kg mixerWeight
in raw
materials 100 kg mixer
500 kg , 1000 kg mixer
for
production(e.g. mascara
& foundation)
Presenter
Presentation Notes
During the upscaling and production, we start producing the product in much greater quantities.
Efficacy Tests
Sensory
Research
Unit Product in-vivo testing
(claim support)
Presenter
Presentation Notes
The last step to ensure that the product can be brought into the market are the efficacy tests. We do not work with animal experiments. The products are tested in a sensory research unit. The in-vivo testing is executed with voluntary probands in our laboratories. Only if a product can withstand to all requirements of tolerance, stability and is also convincing in all other standards like colour, texture and fragrance, we will approve it to start the launching process by working on the packaging and the communication strategies.
Did
you
know….
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May we know introduce you…
Why
does
the lipstick
stick to the lips?
Common ingredients of a lipstick:
& &
waxoil
pigments
How the hold is achieved:
or
wax oil
=&
filmbinders
& =
volatile oils
Presenter
Presentation Notes
Ingredients of a lipstick: - Waxes for consistency - Oils to dispurse the pigments and support the shine of the product - Colour pigments - High-shine polymers improve the shine and the gloss Bees wax or lanoline (wool fat) oil ensure the common hold of the lipstick The hold is achieved by beeswax or lanolin oi that gives lastingness to the lipstick film. For additional hold, filmbinders are integrated. These are polymers (for example a lot of them are in hair spray and fix the hair) that fix the lipstick matrix on the skin. A real long-lasting lipstick has a different composition compared to the classical lipstick. A high amount of volatile oils (silicone oil or isodedecane) are combined with a high amount of filmbinders. The volatiles evaporate and the matrix is fixed on the lip. Due to the missing « normal » caring oils, the product lasts, however on the other hand the product is not very caring. Additionally the gloss is missing. Therefore, kits consisting of a base coat (volatile solvents, filmbinders and pigments) and a top coat (caring gloss giving shine) are proposed -> Extreme Resist Lipstick.
What
gives
the colour to the lipstick?
dye
(e.g. pure red
iron
oxide)
fine pigments colour intensity
smooth
and long lasting lipstick
castor oil
&
Presenter
Presentation Notes
Lipstick gets its color from a variety of added pigments. The variety of red colors of modern lipstick results from many different pigments that are used. The dyes have to be insoluble in water, so the color will last. Therefore soluble dyes have be to converted into insoluble particles by a special process (so named 'laked', treatment of soluble dyes with metal oxides). Mainly used dye stuff is the pure red iron oxide (one of the components of rust), however most leading brands use the more economical synthetic colors. Every batch of synthetic dye and pigment must have to be tested and certificated that the batch is pure. Synthetic colours are listed in the ingredients as a code (eg: CI 15985 or FD&C red no 6). Common lipstick dyes are D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 21, and related dyes and insoluble dyes known as lakes, such as D&C Red No. 34, Calcium lake, and D&C Orange No. 17. Pink shades are made by mixing white titanium dioxide with various shades of red. Typically, the pigments are crushed very finely (7 to 10 Micrometres) while being mixed with castor oil and is then mixed with a wax base to form a finished lipstick. The finer the pigments are crushed, the more intense the colour is and the smoother and longer lasting the lipstick.
How can mascara make lashes more voluminous?
Formula
High content of waxes
= good volume effect
Brushes
rubber
brushfor seperated
and clearly
defined
as well
as longer lashes
bristle
brushfor more voluminous
lashes
Formula & Brush
Presenter
Presentation Notes
The effects depends on a.) the formula as well as b.) on the brush. a.) Formulawise the waxes are crucial for achieving voluminous effects on the lashes. The higher the content of waxes the better the volume effect. The waxes form a thick film layer on the lashes and great volumious effects are achieved. The higher the content of waxes, the better volume effect is achieved. Waxes form a thick layer on the lashes and a great volumious effect. Waxes form a thick layer on the lashes and a great volumious effect. b.) Furthermore the optimal brush type achieves different effects. Mascara brushes are of usually two types: bristle brushes to separate and give more volume and rubber brushes to catch the lashes one by one and make them appear longer.
What
makes
mascara waterproof?
Presenter
Presentation Notes
There are several WP mascaras on the market. Their formula is similar to oil-based or solvent-based paints. The volative solvent of the mascara evaporates after the application and the filmfying polymers and waxes form a continous lipophilic film on the lashes that offers an excellent resistance to tears, sweat or rain. Nivea is now offering a revolutionary product! The mascara Extreme Resist. It will resist your feelings even longer. An 24hours hold lenghtening the lashes at the same time! Try it and you will be prepared to everything!
What
makes
nail
polish
get
dry on the nails?
Common ingredients of nail polish:
& &65%
solvents
13%
additionals
>2,5%
pigments&
22%
filmbinders
Presenter
Presentation Notes
The common ingredients of nail polish are: ….. The drying of a nail polish is the evaporation of the solvents. Even though it seems that there is only a small amount of pigments in the nail polish, the amount is much higher in the final film as the solvent evaporates as the polish is applicated on the nails. There are two differents kind of dryness: "touch-dry" and "core dry". "Touch-dry" means, that the surface of the applied nail polish is dry so that for example dust doesn´t stick to it. Fast drying nail polishes dry within 45-90 seconds, classical ones within 2-5 minutes. "Core-dry" takes 2-4 hours. The nail polish is completely solid and every solvent evaporated. The polish is able to resist a scretch now. The drying time is influenced by the type of solvent (more or less volatile), additive (can help the solvents to evaporate), content of pigments (less is quicker) and thickness of applied film (a thinner one dries quicker).
What
is
the difference
between
fluid
and powder
make-up?
fluid
make-up
powder
make-up
Pressed powder with less viscosity
-
covering and mattifying (make-up and powder in one)
-
comfortable to use
-
easier to apply on skin with more wrinkles and less tautness
-
can quickly be reused during the day
& & &
oilpigmentspowder polymers
Fluid make-up
- covering
-
pleasure of application
-
moisturisation
- long-lastingness
Presenter
Presentation Notes
There are generally three different types of ingredients both in fluid as in powder make-up: powder, mineral pigments, oils and polymeres The fluid make-up has the advantage that it is more covering than a powder. For many users, the pleasure of application is important, as it like using a cream. Therefore, also the moisturisation is higher and the fluid make-up lasts longer on the skin. The powder make-up is covering and mattifying at one time what means that it is make-up and powder in one. Is is comfortable to use as it is applied with an applicator. Furthermore it is easier to apply on skin with more wrinkles and less tautness. Another advantage is that it can quickly be reused during the day.