FRUTAS RUSTICAS

7/30/2019 FRUTAS RUSTICAS

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K k

Cory Schreiber

and Julie Richardson

rustic fruit desserts

crumbles, buckles, cobblers,

pandowdies, and more{ }


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C r u m bles, bu C k les, C o bbler s, Pando wdies, and m o r e

Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson

photography bySara Remington

rustic fruit desserts
http://www.randomhouse.com/crown/tenspeed/


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Copyright 2009 by Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson

Photography 2009 by Sara Remington

All rights reserved. No part o this book may be reproduced in any orm, except brie excerpts orthe purpose o review, without written permission o the publisher.

Ten Speed Press

PO Box 7123

Berkeley, Caliornia 94707

www.tenspeed.com

Distributed in Australia by Simon and Schuster Australia, in Canada by Ten Speed Press Canada,

in New Zealand by Southern Publishers Group, in South Arica by Real Books, and in the United

Kingdom and Europe by Publishers Group UK.

Cover and text design by Nancy Austin

Food styling by Erin Quon

Prop styling by Kami Bremyer

A warm thank you to Hans Schoepfin or the use o his beautiul house to create this book,

and a large thank you to Alison Ghiorse at Savory Thymes or her assistance.

Library o Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Schreiber, Cory, 1961-

Rustic ruit desserts : crumbles, buckles, cobblers, pandowdies, and more / Cory Schreiber and

Julie Richardson ; photography by Sara Remington.p. cm.

Includes index.

Summary: A collection o simple and satisying recipes or crisps, slumps, buckles, grunts, and

other old-timey desserts by a beloved Portland bakery owner in collaboration with one o the regions

top chesProvided by publisher.

ISBN 978-1-58008-976-0

1. Desserts. 2. Cookery (Fruit) I. Richardson, Julie, 1970- II. Title.

TX773.S333 2009

641.86--dc222008049349

Printed in China

First printing, 2009

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 - 13 12 11 10 09
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For my wife, Joy,who loves Marionberry pie. CS

For my husband, Matt,

for suffering through the daily recipe

tastings and for bearing a few extra

pounds during the production

of this book. JR

www.TenSpeedPress.com


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contents


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acknowledgments x

introduction 1

springApple and Rhubarb Pandowdy 16

Rhubarb Fool 18

Rhubarb Compote Two Ways 21

Rhubarb and Bing Cherry

Brown Betty 22

Sour Cherry Cobbler 23

Rhubarb Cream Cheese Pie with

Fresh Strawberries 26

Rhubarb Buckle with Ginger Crumb 27

Fresh Strawberry and Ricotta Tart 28

Rhubarb, Oat, and Pecan Crumble 30Boozy Dried Cherry, Chocolate, and

Hazelnut Bread Pudding 31

Upside-Down Sweet Cherry Cake 32

Lemon Buttermilk Rhubarb

Bundt Cake 36

Cherry Almond Bars 37

Strawberry Shortcake 38

summerRaspberry Red Currant Cobbler 46

Double-Crusted Pluot Crisp 49

Raspberry Cream Brown Betty 50

Stone Fruit Tea Cake 52

Apricot Raspberry Cobbler 53

Nectarine, Boysenberry, and

Almond Crisp 55

Lemon Blueberry Buckle 58

Vanilla-Spiked Plum Galette 61

Marionberry Pie 62

Blueberry Cobbler

with Cornmeal Biscuit 63

Gingered Peach and

Blackberr y Pandowdy 64

Stone Fruit Slump 66

Raspberry Fool 69

Caramel Peach Grunt 70

Stone Fruit Upside-Down

Cornmeal Cake 72

Summer Fruit Trifle 74

Tayberry Oat Buckle 77

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fall

Apple Blackberry Pie 84

Maple Apple Dumpling 86

Gingered Pear and Raspberry

Pandowdy 88

Grape Galette 91

Apple and Black Currant

Brown Betty 92

Huckleberry Buckle with

Vanilla Drizzle 93

Quince and AppleBrown Butter Tart 94

Fig and Mixed-Color Raspberry

Crumble 96

Pumpkin Custard with Cookie

Crumb Crust 98

Pear Cobbler with Shingled Hazelnut

Biscuits 100

Upside-Down Pear Chocolate Cake 102

Caramel Apple Steamed Pudding

with Ginger 105

Fig and Honey Cream Galette 107

winter

Pear Sauce 115

Pear Sauce Bundt Cake with Pear Brandy

Butter Glaze 116

Cranberry Buckle with Vanilla

Crumb 118

Cranberry Upside-Down AlmondCake 120

Apple Cranberry Oat Crumble 122

Apple Custard Pie with Orange 123

Mimis German Apple Cake 124

Apple Cobbler with Cheddar Cheese

Biscuit 126

Deep-Dish Winter Fruit Pie with

Walnut Crumb 128

Stewed Fruit and Chantilly Cream withVanilla Bean Shortbread 131

Olive Oil Citrus Cake 132

Lemon Sponge Tart 135

Caramelized Pear Bread Pudding 136

Apple Crisp with Brandy-Soaked

Currants 138

Apple Pandowdy 140

Grandma Freemans Jam Cake with

Brown Sugar Rum Glaze 142

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pantryChantilly Cream 145

Crme Frache 146

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream 146

Berry Ice Cream 147

Basic Jam 148

Vanilla Sauce 149

Vanilla Crumb 149

All-Butter Pie Pastry 151

Short Dough 152

Galette Dough 153

Vanilla Bean Shortbread 155

Vanilla Chiffon Cake 156

resources 158

index 159



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baking dish equivalents

We suggest ideal size equipment and baking vessels in each recipe, but if you do

not have the precise pan, use the nearest equivalent based on the type of dish. Just beaware that the baking time will need to be adjusted when using a different size pan.

9 by 114-inch pie pan = 4 cups or 1 quart

9 by 112-inch pie pan = 5 cups or 114 quarts

912 by 2-inch deep-dish pie pan = 7 cups or 134 quarts

8 by 8 by 2-inch square pan = 8 cups or 2 quarts

9 by 9 by 112-inch square pan = 8 cups or 2 quarts

9 by 9 by 2-inch pan = 10 cups or 212 quarts

612 by 312-inch small Bundt pan = 512 cups or 11/3 quarts

9 by 3-inch Bundt pan = 10 cups or 214 quarts

10 by 312-inch Bundt pan = 12 cups or 3 quarts

812 by 11 by 2-inch rectangular baking dish = 8 cups or 2 quarts

9 by 13 by 2-inch rectangular baking dish = 12 cups or 3 quarts

1214 by 834 by 212-inch oval baking dish = 8 cups or 2 quarts

9 by 2-inch round cake pan = 8 cups or 2 quarts

912 by 212-inch springform pan = 10 cups or 212 quarts

9 by 3-inch springform pan = 11 cups or 234 quarts

8 rustic fruit desserts | introduction


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the b ak e r s b atte r y

High-quality stainless steel

chefs knife

High-quality stainless steelparing knife

Digital scale

Set of measuring spoons

Set of dry measuring cups

1-cup liquid measuring cup

2-quart liquid measuring cup

Wooden spoons

Whisk

Rubber spatula

Plastic scrapers

Bench scraper

Sifter

Fine-mesh sieve

Half-size sheet pans orbaking sheets

Pie pans

Tart pans, including one witha removable bottom

Pie crust shield

9-inch square pan

9-inch round pan

9 by 13-inch baking pan

Bundt pan

2-quart and 3-quart baking dishes

9-inch cast-iron skillet

Custard cups (also called ramekins)

Rolling pin

Offset spatula

Microplane for zesting citrus

Parchment paper or Silpat baking mat

Metal mixing bowls

Pastry brush

Good oven mitts

Food mill

Electric mixer

(preferably a stand mixer)

Food processor

Spice grater

9www.TenSpeedPress.com


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stone fruit slumpA slump is a simple steamed pudding, somewhat akin to a cobbler, that uses whatever

ruit you have on hand. Unlike most o the other recipes in this book, a slump is usually

cooked on the top o the stove; frst you heat the ruit, then you top it with dumplings

and simmer the slump to perection. This is a perect dessert to make on a hot day, as

you will not need to turn on your oven. The amount o sugar needed in the ruit flling

will vary depending on the sweetness o the ruit. It is important to choose a pot with a

tight-ftting lid, so the dumplings will cook through.

j serves 8 J

Fru it Fillin g

4 12 pounds mixed plums,nectarines, or peaches, freshor frozen, pitted (8 to 9 cupsor 3 pounds prepped)

34 to 1 cup (514 to 7 ounces)granulated sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

12 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 tablespoons freshly squeezedlemon juice (about 12 lemon)

To make the ruit flling, slice the ruit over a bowl so

you can collect al l o the juices. Slice each ruit into 10 to

12 pieces, depending on the size o the ruit, and drop the

slices into the bowl. Separately, rub the sugar, cornstarch,

and salt together in a small bowl, then add to the ruit and

gently toss to coat. Gently stir in the lemon juice, then scrapethe ruit and juices into a 10- to 12-inch nonreactive, deep

skillet or a wide 5-quart saucepan or Dutch oven. Whatever

pan you choose, it must have a tight-ftting lid. Let stand

or 15 minutes. During this time, the ruit will release some

o its juices and the sugar will begin to dissolve.

Bring the ruit mixture to a low simmer over medium-low

heat. You will need to stir occasionally to prevent the juicerom sticking to the bottom o the pan, but do so gently to

avoid breaking down the pieces o ruit. Simmer or about

2 minutes, until slightly thickened. Remove rom the heat.

continued

66 rustic ruit desserts | summer


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To make the dumplings, whisk the fours, sugar, baking

powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and cardamom together

in a bowl. Add the butter and toss until evenly coated. Using

your ngertips or a pastry blender, cut in the butter until the

size o peas. Add the buttermilk and stir just until the mix-

ture comes together; it will be a slightly wet dough.

In 8 portions, place the dough atop the ruit, distribut-ing the dumplings evenly over the surace. Return to the

stovetop and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Cover

with a tight-tting lid and continue simmering or 18 to

22 minutes, or until the dumplings are puy and cooked

through to the center. Remove the cover and let cool or

15 minutes beore serving.

Storage: Sadly, slumps do not keep well. Eat this one

immediately.

stone fruit slump, continued

J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J

Du mplin gs

1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour

12 cup unsifted (2 12 ounces)cake flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

12 teaspoon baking soda

12 teaspoon fine sea salt

12 teaspoon ground cinnamon

12 teaspoon ground cardamom

12 cup (4 ounces) cold unsaltedbutter, cut into 12-inch cubes

1 cup cold buttermilk

ki tchen hi nt:

Peeling a Peach

To peel or not to peelthat is the question! Most folks peel

their peaches, but there is no need to peel nectarines or plums.

If you want to peel ripe peaches, submerge them in boiling

water for 30 seconds, then pull them out; the peel will strip

right off. Instead of peeling peaches, try washing them well and

then piercing them gently with a fork. Once they are sliced and

baked, the peel will fall apart into the fruit and add a rosy color

to any dessert.

68 rustic ruit desserts | summer

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For the apples in this recipe, we recommend Golden Delicious, Galas, Jonagolds, or any other variety

with a high water content (or a combination of varieties), to create an aromatic filling. This recipe calls

for soaking dried currants in apple brandy. The longer the currants steep, the more the flavor will be

enhanced, so plan accordingly. Our favorite apple brandy, also called eau de vie, is made by Steve

McCarthys Clear Creek Distillery (see the Sources section) using Golden Delicious apples grown onthe northeast slope of Mt. Hood, just seventy miles east of Portland. The brandy is excellent for both

sweet and savory recipes. Cory

Baking time: 50 minutes Serves 6 to 8

12 cup (212 ounces) dried currants14 cup apple brandy

1 tablespoon unsalted butter,

at room temperature, for pan

Crisp Topping34 cup packed (534 ounces)

brown sugar114 cups (614 ounces) all-purpose flour12 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon12 cup (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted

Fruit Filling8 large apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 12 inch

thick (3 pounds prepped)14 cup (134 ounces) granulated sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Heavy cream, for serving (optional)

Soak the currants in the brandy for at least 2

hours and up to 24 hours.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Butter a 9-inch

square baking pan.

To make the crisp topping, mix the brown

sugar, flour, salt, and cinnamon together in a

bowl. Stir in the butter, then press the topping

together with your hands to form a few small

clumps. Put the topping in the freezer while

you make the filling.

To make the fruit filling, toss the apples, sugar,

and flour together in a bowl until evenlycombined, then transfer to the prepared pan.

Scatter the currants and any residual brandy

over the apples, then sprinkle the crisp topping

evenly over the fruit.

Bake for 50 minutes, or until the crisp is

golden and the filling is bubbling up through

the topping. Cool for 20 minutes before

serving with a drizzle of heavy cream.

Storage: This crisp is best served the day it is


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