February/March 2012
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Two Sides of Portugal BEYOND Bordeaux ITALIAN Winter Warmers Young in life, old in whiskeys: 18 Year Olds Gina Gallo’s NEW Cabernet FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
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Buzz Mag is Awesome
Transcript of February/March 2012
Two Sides of Portugal
BEYOND Bordeaux
ITALIAN Winter
Warmers
Young in life, old in whiskeys: 18 Year Olds
Gina Gallo’s NEW
Cabernet
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
A traditional Portuguese boat used to transport wine and barrels on the Douro.Rupert Symington
VINTAGE PORT2007 Croft 92WS, 92W&S 375ml 34.99, 750ml 59.99, 1.5L 129.992007 Fonseca 96WE, 94WS, 94WA 89.99, 1.5L 179.992007 Gould Campbell 375ml 92WS, 91WA 26.99, 750ml 44.9911980 Gould Campbell 69.991997 Gould Campbell 91WS 54.992003 Quinto do Noval 96WS, 94WA 79.992003 Ramos Pinto 94WS, 94WE, 94W&S 59.992007 Taylor Fladgate 96WS, 95WA, 95WE, 95W&S 89.99
SINGLE QUINTA VINTAGE PORT
1994 Ramos Pinto Ervamoira 91WA 59.99
LBV PORTS2007 Dow’s 19.99
2005 Graham’s 91WE 19.99
AGED TAWNY PORTSCockburn’s 20 Year 94WS, 92WE 500ml 39.99Dows 10 Year Old 90WS 29.99Dows 20 Year Old 90WS 49.99Fonseca 40 Year Old 93ST, 91WS 149.99Graham’s 10 Year Old 90WS 29.99Graham’s 20 Year Old 90WS 49.99Ramos Pinto 30 Year Old 92WE 89.99
Sandeman 30 Year Old 91WE, 90WS 79.99
TAWNY/RUBYDow Fine Tawny 11.99Sandeman Tawny 12.99
Sandeman Ruby 12.99
RESERVE PORTCockburn’s Special Reserve 15.99Dow’s Trademark Reserve Port 16.99Fonseca Bin 27 Fine Reserve 17.99Quinto do Noval Black 19.99Ramos Pinto Collector Reserva 16.99Sandemans Founders Reserve 15.99Smith-Woodhouse Lodge Reserve 19.99Taylor Fladgate First Estate Port 19.99
SYMINGTON TALKS PORT By Chris Sherman
With a first name of Rupert he must be British. When the last name is Symington, the wines have to be from Portugal.
In the case of a 21st century Symington those wine could be Dow’s, Warre’s, Cockburn’s, Graham’s, Smith-Woodhouse and other grand old British names brought into the family in the last 200 years. This collection of Port lodges makes Symington Family Estates a major power in the Port trade.
To anyone who suspects that a modern world, ever trendy and earnestly dieting, might lose its taste for Port should ask the man with the wavy hair and pink-striped shirt.
“Port’s never been better,’’ he says firmly over lunch at Tampa’s Mise en Place. Sales are good for both classic fortified Ports, from tawnies and LBV to the great vintage ports, and the newer lines of Portuguese table wines.
He does wish there were a new category for Port on wine lists besides the After-dinner section to attract new drinkers. What about before dinner with the apertifs or, Symington lights up, “A relaxation wine!”
Still, plenty of people already know that Port is a fine idea at the end of the
day and its other advantages. You can drink when released and once opened and re-corked it will last two weeks longer than any other wine.
He’s also high on the blended ruby ports, tawnies and LBV’s that cost less buy deliver traditional Port pleasure. “My mother has (Grahams’) Six Grapes at home. She spends $22 and it lasts a long time.”
Many others besides Mrs. Symington are enjoying the price break and the flavor of aged tawnies. “They’ve been the salvation of many in the industry.” “They have all the complexity and richness without the history.” “The 10-year old we had at lunch was elegant, clean, nutty with spice and honey, like a rich sherry.” “The 20-year-old was darker, richer and more luscious with sweet cherries and peaches.”
While declared vintages in 2007 and 2003s, we stick to the 1998, a great year full of chocolates and mint, likely to last another 30 to 50 years, and the ‘94 vintage, which is dark and silky but still too young. Indeed in Rupert’s book of vintages the 1983s are still developing.
While Port continues to change, it will always take its time.
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VINTAGE PORT2007 Croft 92WS, 92W&S 375ml 34.99, 750ml 59.99, 1.5L 129.992007 Fonseca 96WE, 94WS, 94WA 89.99, 1.5L 179.992007 Gould Campbell 375ml 92WS, 91WA 26.99, 750ml 44.9911980 Gould Campbell 69.991997 Gould Campbell 91WS 54.992003 Quinto do Noval 96WS, 94WA 79.992003 Ramos Pinto 94WS, 94WE, 94W&S 59.992007 Taylor Fladgate 96WS, 95WA, 95WE, 95W&S 89.99
SINGLE QUINTA VINTAGE PORT
1994 Ramos Pinto Ervamoira 91WA 59.99
LBV PORTS2007 Dow’s 19.99
2005 Graham’s 91WE 19.99
AGED TAWNY PORTSCockburn’s 20 Year 94WS, 92WE 500ml 39.99Dows 10 Year Old 90WS 29.99Dows 20 Year Old 90WS 49.99Fonseca 40 Year Old 93ST, 91WS 149.99Graham’s 10 Year Old 90WS 29.99Graham’s 20 Year Old 90WS 49.99Ramos Pinto 30 Year Old 92WE 89.99
Sandeman 30 Year Old 91WE, 90WS 79.99
TAWNY/RUBYDow Fine Tawny 11.99Sandeman Tawny 12.99
Sandeman Ruby 12.99
RESERVE PORTCockburn’s Special Reserve 15.99Dow’s Trademark Reserve Port 16.99Fonseca Bin 27 Fine Reserve 17.99Quinto do Noval Black 19.99Ramos Pinto Collector Reserva 16.99Sandemans Founders Reserve 15.99Smith-Woodhouse Lodge Reserve 19.99Taylor Fladgate First Estate Port 19.99
2007 Prats & Symington Chryseia Douro 92WA, 92WS 44.99 The 2008 “CHRYSEIA” is sourced from various vineyards owned by the Symingtons, including Perdiz, Vila Velha, Vesuvio and Bomfim. It is a 50/50 blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional this year, aged for 12 months in French oak. Showing a touch of rhubarb, and a harmonious demeanor, it is fragrant and supple, appealingly graceful, yet with a backbone underlying its fruit and giving it some support. It is, in short, an exceptionally attractive Chryseia that grew on me as time went on, sunny, fleshy and flavorful, showing finesse with the intensity of flavor. This will require a little patience in the cellar for best results, however ready it seems today. Frugal winos may be find a nice alternative with the ’08 Post-Scriptum, reviewed this issue. There were 33,945 bottles produced. Drink 2012-2024. 92 points - The Wine Advocate (December 2010)2007 Prats & Symington Post Scriptum de Chryseia 90WS 21.99 Lithe yet powerful flavors of wild plum, kirsch and dark cherry fill this full-bodied red, which has lots of rich, exotic spice and mineral notes that flow into the long, peppery finish. Drink now through 2015. 2,965 cases made. 90 points - Wine Spectator (December 15, 2009)2008 Dow Quinta Do Bomfim 88WS 11.99 2006 Cedro do Noval 92MS, 91W&S 19.99
2008 J M da Fonseca Periquita 87RAS 9.99 2004 Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos 89WS 14.99 2008 Aveleda Charamba Tinto 7.99 2007 Symington Family Estates Pombal Do Vesuvio 92WE 29.99 2008 Quinta de Roriz Prazo de Roriz 89WS 15.99 N.V. Aveleda Casal Garcia Rouge 7.99
FIT FOR THE TABLEThere’s a new cargo on the Douro
for export. It’s been a river of wine for centuries and now it’s carrying something precious besides pipes of Port for export.
What’s on board now is table wine. It is made from the same rich dark grapes like Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz as those grown for the fabled ports for which Portugal is most known. And often in the same vineyard areas and by the same people and brands, although there is a wide range of very modest reds and whites like vinho verde made for easy quaffing.
Indeed the best table wines are not offered as a cheap alternative to Port, for they depend on the same vines and vineyards that go into the most expen-sive vintage Port.These costs raise the price well above the $10 range but the quality more than repays the price.
While fortified port comes before and after the meal, table wines are happy to sit down to the heartiest Mediterraean
food, especially a roast, rustic fish stew or white beans and linguica sausage,.
Unlike Port the table wines of Portugal are dry not sweet. They are made every year, neither blended nor made only in declared vintage years . The table wines are not fortified although they are full-bodied and pack a smooth punch.
To find the best, we look for the same breeding we want in a fine Port: quintas (farms orvineyards) from high on the schist-y hillsides of the upper Douro and a strong proportion of Touriga Nacional and other top varietoes of the manygrapes that grow in Portugal.
One producer that wows us, and much of the wine world, is Quinta do Crasto, an old Douro winery updated and presented by no less than Bartholomew Broadbent from a family that knows its way around the best of Portugal. The 2008 Crasto Old-vines Reserva made the Wine Spectator’s
Top 100 and the 2009 vintage is a winner too. The Roberts Sprentall and Parker both say it’s worth at least 93 points. The old vines reserve has the full range of old Portuguese varieties all handpicked and basket pressed, which makes a big drink of deep purple, sumptuous fruit flavors, whiffs of cinnamon, rich texture, and long easy finish.
Fora simpler red, long on Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo on this side of the border), more flowery in the nose and a very lovely 90-pointer for well under $15. In the middle is the Quinto’s new Superior, which has more Touriga Nacional and more spice in a very elegant texture,.
For a powerful showcase of Touriga Nacional at its best and purest, try Quinta do Vallado, which is packed with violets and a powerful aroma. It’s a full throttle red: deep, rich, long and spicy. As profound as a soulful fado, this is the highest rated Portuguese table wine in our inventory.
Table wine Still wines fermented conventionally without
fortification, ranging from crisp white vinho verde and verdelho to robust reds from traditional such as Touriga National
Fortified portsWhite: Made from white grapes of several vintages, dry or sweet
Ruby port: Made from red grapes of several vintages, aged and sweet.
Tawny port: Ruby port aged longerin wood, best at 10, 20 or 30 years old
Vintage character port: Blended rubies aged four years or more so as to resemble
vintage port.
LBV: Ruby port from a single year kept separate and aged four years or more.
Vintage: The finest, made only every few years from a year of high quality (2007 was the
last). Aged in wood two years and longer in bottle. Best drank after 15 years.
IN A FEW WORDS:
RED TABLE WINE
2009 Quinta do Crasto Tinto 90RAS, 88WA 13.992009 Quinta do Crasto Superior 92RAS, 89+WA 19.992009 Quinta do Crasto Reserva 94RAS, 93WA 34.992009 Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional 96RAS, 92WA 44.99
B-21.com | 3Bruno Prats and Charles Symington
at Quinta do Sol.
BORDEAUX SATELLITESThe satellite appellations on the right bank are significant for
the value they provide to the wine world. The term “satellite” refers to the positioning of these villages flanking Saint-Emilion and to a lesser extent Pomerol, the premier appellations of the right bank, the ones these satellites revolve around. The terroirs, intermittent like everywhere else, consist of limestone, gravel and clay soils.
Bordeaux being such a huge appellation, the last listing I saw showing over 13,000 producers, it has long been the aim of producers everywhere to distinguish themselves somehow in the marketplace. That was one result of the 1855 classifcation of the Medoc, and Saint-Emilion every ten years, the last of which was quite fractious. The naming of things is something that quite often is politicized, and something that producers like to be able to have some power in also.
You’ve noticed the name of Saint-Emilion attached to Montagne, Puisseguin, St-Georges and Lussac, these “satellites” being attached to the mothership directly and being able to benefit label-wise to lure lookers with that and their relative bargain pricing. And you have others as well that use their own name and have proximity and prominence of their own as well.
With the release of the 2008 vintage another appellation called “Cotes de Bordeaux” was created. The distinct appellations of Premieres Cotes de Blaye, Cotes de Castillon, Cotes de Franc and Cadillac all now use the appellation of Cotes de Bordeaux as well as their own -- a wine from Cotes de Castillon now says “Castillon -- Cotes de Bordeaux.” This is a marketing maneuver and a combining of forces to create a larger entity marketwise. Many younger, innovative and outside winemakers (is it any wonder that Cotes means coast?) have introduced fresh ideas and fresh blood and given a name to or restored what once was to these appellations.
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CANON-FRONSAC2005 Cassagne Haut-Canon 91RB 19.99
2003 Haut-Mazeris 91WA 44.99
2005 Haut-Mazeris 91RB, 89WA 29.99
FRONSAC2005 Les Trois Croix 92RB, 90WS 34.99
2005 La Rousselle 88-90WA, 88WS 29.99
2000 La Preuve Par Carles 90WS, 89WA 59.99
2003 Haut-Mazeris 97WA 29.99
MONTAGNE-ST. EMILION2005 Chapelle Segur 91RB 19.99
2005 Beausejour 1901 89WS 34.99
LALANDE DE POMEROL2005 La Fleur de Bouard 90WS, 89RP 39.99
2008 La Fleur de Bouard 90WS, 89WA 29.99
2001 Le Plus La Fleur de Bouard 91WA, 90WS 99.99
COTES DE BLAYE2000 Roland la Garde 91RB 39.99 1.5 69.99
2003 Gigault Cuvee Viva 91WS, 90WA 49.99
COTES DE CASTILLON2005 Joanin Becot 90WA, 90ST 34.99
2008 Joanin Becot 89WS, 89WA 21.99
2005 Domaine de L’A 92WS, 91WA 49.99
2006 Domaine de L’A 90ST 34.99
2005 Clos Puy Arnaud 88WA 34.99
2008 L’Estang 88-90WA 14.99
2005 Cap de Faugeres 89WS, 89WA 24.99
2004 D’Aiguilhe 87WS 29.99
2008 D’Aiguilhe 90WS 28.99
2008 D’Aiguilhe Seigneur d’Aiguilhe 87WS 14.99
COTES DE BORDEAUX -- a varied appellation as the communes constituting it are not all together, Cadillac being about 40 miles south of Cotes de Castillon, for instance. Castillon is home to consultant/winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt’s Domaine de L’A and the property of D’Aiguilhe, owned by Comte de Neipperg, owner of Canon La Gaffeliere, these are properties that show the upward potential off the appellation.
MONTAGNE SAINT-EMILION -- home to a limestone plateau and a bevy of beauties.
FRONSAC -- ancient and legendary terroir and perhaps my favorite appellation for value, see our 09 Futures to be impressed.
CANON-FRONSAC -- one of the plateaus within Fronsac and its own appellation.
OPPORTUNITY ON THE RIGHT: NEW QUALITY ON BORDEAUX’S EASTERN EDGES
2005 CASSAGNE HAUT-CANON -- From a prestigious site atop the hill of Canon-Fronsac where the shallow soils reveal fossilferous limestone, CHC is a wine of breed indeed. Ripe and supple fruit, blackberry like and some fresh spice sit right in the middle of this wine that has fine tannins and a gentle and long finish. The wine drinks beautifully now and will for another 5 years. It is one to keep you off the big dogs and I don’t see it going into any dumb phase either. 91RB 19.99
2005 LES TROIS CROIX -- A vibrant, fresh and completely balanced style of Fronsac, with savory and ripe red fruits, floral and mineral touches, crisp acids and an excellent tannin structure. LTC drinks nicely now and opens up after 2hrs and will age nicely for another decade or more (2011). 92RB 34.99
2000 ROLAND LA GARDE -- “From ancient vineyards in Blaye, Roland La Garde GV and has begun to show signs of a beautiful maturity; the varietals fusing, harmonizing and surrendering their individuality to the greater good of the whole, resulting in a “mellowness” (a term often misused and being potentially corny, but I stand by it here) and roasted character that is all Merlot goodness along with black cherry and some earth tones. It is a wine that could be served to anyone, it has fanned out and shed tannins and acidity and shows grace and refinement.” 91RB 39.99
2005 CLOS PUY ARNAUD -- “Although the 2005 Clos Puy Arnaud may not be as brilliant as the 2001, it is still a terrific wine. Revealing plenty of crushed rock/mineral characteristics along with hints of black cherries, intense fruit, and a beautiful mouthfeel, this dense ruby/purple-tinged effort should drink well for 7-8 years.” 88WA 34.99
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BOOKWALTERNV J. Bookwalter Subplot No. 25 14.99 A flavorful, full bodied wine made by layering vintages (consists of grapes from 2005-2010), vineyards (5 different appellations) and varietals (7 grapes, mostly Merlot and Cabernet). Wine from the oldest vineyards are aged longer in the cellar to help soften the tannins and create more mature flavors, and wine from younger vines and more recent vintages are added to the blend to bring the lush, young fruit characteristics forward in the wine. The result is a wine that offers great fruit, structure, approachability and exceptional value. A very distinct wine that is perfect for sipping or throw down a burger. 90MS
2008 Bookwalter Foreshadow Cabernet 93WE, 92WS, 91WA 29.992008 Bookwalter Foreshadow Merlot 92WE, 90WS 24.99
NORTHSTAR2007 Northstar Merlot 93WE, 92WA, 91WS 29.992006 Northstar Merlot Walla Walla Valley 94WE, 92WS, 92WA 39.992006 Northstar Merlot 93CG, 92WE, 91WA, 91WS 29.99
2008 Andrew Will Winery Sorella 95WS, 95ST, 92WA 69.992008 Andrew Will Winery Champoux Vineyard 95WA, 93WS 59.992008 Andrew Will Winery Two Blondes Vineyard 93WA, 91WS 57.992008 Andrew Will Winery Ciel du Cheval Vineyard 93WA, 93WE, 92WS 57.99
Andrew Will Winery was started in 1989 and is owned by Chris Camarda. The winery was launched out of a love for wine that Chris developed while working in the restaurant trade for almost 20 years. Named after his son Will and nephew Andrew, Andrew Will has been a major contributor in putting Washington State on the map as a world-class wine-producing region.
“Camarda’s (wines) blend power with elegance, concentration with finesse, and super sweet fruit with definition. (He) is a brilliant winemaker.” -Robert Parker
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WASHINGTON REDSANDREW WILL
By Mark Stitt
The early Washington wine industry focused predominately on white wines but in recent years, led by the “Merlot-craze” of the 1990s have shifted the focus to the state’s red wines. Merlot was one of the first major vinifera varieties to garner international attention for the state with its distinctive earthiness and structure that can be very different from the softer, plusher styles found in California. However the Merlot vine is very sensitive to frost and after significant damages during major winter freezes in 1996 & 2003, more vintners turned their attention to the hardier Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This led to interest in Bordeaux-style blends. In the early 21st century, Syrah has emerged on the scene as a major player. And in 2010 when a Washington Red was selected as Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year, the 2007 Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines of Washington State received immediate international attention. I tend to find the Reds to be much more lush and approachable than their California counterparts and much more affordable. Please enjoy this diverse selection of Washington Red Wines.
Northstar winemaker David Merf
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2008 Ste. Michelle Cabernet 93W&S 10.992007 Ste. Michelle Merlot 93W&S, 88WS 10.992008 Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge Cabernet 91WE, 90WS, 89WA 19.992009 Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge Merlot 19.99
Ste. Michelle Vintners planted its first vines at Cold Creek Vineyard in Eastern Washington in 1972. Cold Creek remains one of the oldest and most renowned vineyards in the state.
2008 Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Cabernet 93W&S, 92ST, 90WS 24.992007 Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Merlot 94WE, 90WS 24.99
CABERNET2008 Columbia Crest Grand Estates 88WS, 88WE, 87WA 7.992009 Columbia Crest H3 90WA 11.992009 Covey Run 7.992003 Hedges Bel Villa North Block 99.992006 Hogue Genesis 88WS 12.992002 Kiona Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 90W&S 29.99
2007 Leonetti Cellar 97WE, 94WA, 91WS 89.992008 Red Diamond 7.492004 Tamarack 91W&S, 90WA 27.992008 Waterbrook Reserve 92WE, 90WS 19.99
MERLOT2007 Columbia Crest Grand Estates 89WE, 88WS 7.992009 Columbia Crest H3 89WA 11.992006 Hogue Genesis 88WS 12.992008 Leonetti Cellar 96WE, 92WA 79.99NV Pine & Post Sweet 8.992008 Red Diamond 7.492009 Charles Smith “Velvet Devil” 87WS 11.99
BLENDS2009 14 Hands Hot to Trot 9.992004 Cadence Klipsun Vineyard 92WS, 92WE 37.992007 Hogue Meritage Genesis 87WE 12.99NV Vivacious Vicky Red by Kiona 9.992007 Leonetti Cellar Reserve 96WA, 93WS 149.992003 Seven Hills Vineyard Pentad 92WA 47.992005 Spring Valley Frederick Red 90WE, 89WS 49.992006 Spring Valley Uriah Red 93WE 49.992004 Stella Maris Red 90WE 19.992008 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse 90WS 19.992008 Waterbrook Melange Noir 88WS, 88WE 13.992006 Col Solare Proprietary 94W&S, 93WA, 92 WS 49.99
OTHER2008 Cayuse Grenache God Only Knows Armada Vineyard 119.99
2007 K Vintners ‘Clifton’ Syrah 92WE 35.992007 K Vintners ‘The Boy’ Grenache 93WA, 93WS 49.992006 Leonetti Sangiovese 92WS, 92WA 69.992007 Leonetti Sangiovese 92WA, 91WS 64.99 2004 Sequel Syrah 93WA, 92WS 54.992006 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc 90WS 27.99
ANDREW WILL CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE
MORE WASHINGTON REDS
Built on the 1912 estate owned by Seattle lumber baron Frederick Stimson, the winery’s roots date back to the Repeal of Prohibition, when the Pommerelle Wine Company and the National Wine Company were formed. They merged in 1954 to form American Wine Growers. In 1967, American Wine Growers began a new line of premium vinifera wines called “Ste. Michelle Vintners” under the direction of legendary California winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff.
Northstar winemaker David Merf
Andrew Will Winery 2011 Harvest
B-21.com | 7
Icewine - Though Icewine’s roots can be traced to centuries old German winemakers, there is nothing more quintessentially Canadian than this luscious luxury borne of patience and subzero bravura. Grapes are left on the vine well into the winter months to concentrate and intensify the flavors, as water content freezes, thaws and dehydrates in each precious Icewine grape (typically Vidal). Once the extreme temperatures arrive, Icewine pickers arrive, often in the dead of night, to harvest the frozen clusters. The precious grapes are immediately pressed in the extreme cold to extract the luscious nectar. In this process, the water content in each grape remains frozen in crystals, leaving only a few coveted drops of
concentrated, intense liquid. Icewine yields are a mere 10-15% of an average table wine harvest. Slowly fermented over the coming months, this delicate nectar will eventually become Icewine. The finished Icewine is intense, sweet and sumptuous, yet balanced with brilliant acidity, creating a unique sensation on the palate. Renowned for fruit flavors rang-ing from mango to peach to lychees, Icewine is truly a natural wonder and extreme winemaking at its best, yield-ing the impressions of tropical tastes wrought from the frigid extremes of the icy Canadian winterscape. Today, Inniskillin is well renowned as the world leader in Icewine. It is sold in over 59 countries and is the #1 distributed wine in Global Travel Retail.
SAUTERNES 375ml
2001 Coutet 750ml 74.99“A brilliant combination of power and finesse characterizes this light green/gold-colored Barsac. It possesses moderate sweetness, terrific aromatics, and a full-bodied, rich, beautifully delineated, ethereal palate revealing delicacy as well as acidity. Although young, it is already strutting its stuff. Consume it over the next 15-25 years.” 93 Points - The Wine Advocate (June 2004)
2003 Haut-Bergeron 750ml 39.99“Unctuous, rich and saturated; apricots, figs and peaches. ultra-ripe and luxuriant with incredible length. a gleaming new face to us. I tasted while in Bordeaux in April ‘07 and these wines of Haut-Bergeron were the top 5% of any Sauternes I have tasted. the vitals on this wine are 160g residual sugar and 60% botrytis.” 93 Points, Rhett Beiletti, B-21
2003 Raymond-Lafon 37.99 92 points - The Wine Advocate (April 2006). No tasting note was given.
2005 de Fargues Lur-Saluces 750ml 109.99“This is very concentrated with dried pineapple, honey and caramel. Full-bodied and superdense. Like honey. Massive. This is fantastic. From the former head and part owner of Yquem.” 95-100 points - Wine Spectator, March 31, 2006
2005 Nairac 39.99“Lots of botrytis spice and clove honey, with hints of dried lemon. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with honey and cooked apple flavors. Spicy and long, with just a hint of vanilla. Very pretty and balanced. Best after 2013.” 93
points - Wine Spectator, March 31, 2008
2007 De Myrat 23.99Darker in color than most 2007 Sauternes, showing intense aromas of dried apricot, with toffee notes and an almost smoky character. Full-bodied and very sweet, with a full-blown dried fruit and raisin flavor. Long and superbly rich. Best after 2014 (JS) 96 Points, The Wine Spectator (March 2010)
2009 Doisy-Vedrines (Futures) 19.99Shows lots of lemon pie and almond spice, with hints of bitter lemon. Full-bodied, with a nutmeg and honey finish. Racy. 92-95 Points, The Wine Spectator (Mar 2010)
2009 Doisy-Daene (Futures) 24.99Denis Dubourdieu has provided one of the genuine stars of the vintage with the Chateau Doisy-Daene, two, if you count his Extravagance. This has a very fragrant nose with apple blossom, lime leaf and a touch of honey. Very fresh and lifted...spring-like. The palate is very well balanced, not a powerful Sauternes but ethereally poised and focused, skipping blithely to an animated pear, honeysuckle and apricot finish. Very pretty, very complete and very outstanding. 96-98 points - The Wine Advocate (Apr 2010).
We all have a hankering for something sweet and the fix shouldn’t be limited to solids. Dessert bevs are being produced all over the world such as Icewine (Canada), Sauternes (France), Vin Santo (Italy) and Tokaji (Hungary). Definitely vary in price but now is the time to splurge on something/ someone sweet.
“We elves try to stick to the four main food groups: candy, candy canes, candy corns and syrup.” -Buddy the Elf
By Shannon Sprentall
ICE WINE 375ml
2007 Inniskillin Vidal Icewine Pearl 92WE 29.99There’s incredible depth of both flavor and texture in this golden icewine from Inniskillin. Initially, it’s rich and creamy on the tongue with notes of honey, waxy florals and apple. Then, bright flashes of acidity bring forth tones of tangerine and Meyer lemon. Long and languorous on the finish, it’s a gorgeous wine all around. 92 points - Wine Enthusiast (July 1, 2011)
2005 Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine 59.992006 Inniskillin Vidal Gold Icewine 89WS 59.99
This racy version is sweet but balanced more on the tart side, with baked apple, apricot and honey aromas and flavors. Nice length. Drink now through 2022. 1,600 cases imported.
2007 Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 91WS 59.99Offers a combination of rich apricot, peach and pear flavors, with intense sweetness, matched by a racy structure. Very pure and grapey, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,600 cases imported.
2007 Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Icewine 89WS 79.99Shows a candied black currant flavor, like wine gum, along with juicy acidity. Light and balanced, with moderate length. Drink now. 1,600 cases imported.
2007 Dr. Zenzen 19.992008 Dr. Zenzen Rose Dornfelder 19.992002 Schmitt Schenk 39.992002 Paul Anheuser Narrenkappe 39.992004 Jackson-Triggs Vidal 187ml 9.99
VIN SANTO 375ml
1999 Fontodi Vin Santo (94WE, 91WA, 90WS) 69.99 1997 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepuliciano (97WA, 97WE, 95WS, 95ST) 159.991997 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepuliciano Occhio di Pernice (99WE, 98WA) 225.001998 Volpaia 29.992003 Volpaia 44.99 2001 Fattoria di Felsina 95WS 34.99
TOKAJI 500ml
2003 Dereszla Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 19.992003 Dereszla Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 29.992000 Hetszolo Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 94WS 39.992000 Hetszolo Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos 93WS 59.992001 Hetszolo Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos 93WS 44.998 | B-21.com
T H E S W E E T TO OT H : DESSERT WINE
WARM UP TO AMARONE By Chris Sherman
All hail the mighty corvina of Veneto! Do not belittle this grape because you know it only from light hearted Valpolicella or its soft kiss in Bardolino. When made into ripassos and the great amarones, Corvina can reach grand, intimidating heights, as impressive as those of the nebbiola and sangiovese so sought after in the Piedmont and Tuscany. This modest grape growscorvino lies in the northeast of Italy between Lake Garda and the river Adige, with the Alps to the north and Venice to the south. Here a key part of terroir, besides climate and soil, is the tradition of human ingenuity of Verona, which has made it a wine capital since the Bronze Age despite the absence of the noblest grapes.
Just as its early winemakers made prosecco sparkle so they gave magic to corvina with the help of the sun. While the ordinary part of the harvest goes to the likes of Vapolicella, the best grapes destined to be amarone are spread
out to dry and raisinate for up to four months. Only then are they pressed and the juice begun to ferment and then be aged. …Yet, the old winemakers of the Veneto found out that the dried and pressed corvina grapes still had more magic to impart. They poured other lesser wines over the crushed amarone grapes to collect the robust color and flavors that remained, which were further concentrated with secondary fermentation to make Ripassos. With more twists they could make reciotos and grappas. In the hands of masterful winemakers, amarones, ripasso and their ilk produce a dark rainbow of shadowy flavors, cherries, plums and blackberries with savory tones of smoke, tar, leather, tobacco, chocolate and espresso. They are wines for chilly nights, hearty stews and strong cheese.
Our favorites include grand old estates like Allegrini, where Marilisa traces her family that roots in the region
back to the 15th century, and more modern ventures like Zenato, where the family is now in its third generation of making amarones and ripasso style wines. Today’s amarones can be heavy and syrup-thick or sleek and supple, slightly sweet or bittersweet; the modern style is polished and robust but rarely rough. They are also built for many winters. The best have seen 50 or more.
2007 Allegrini Amarone 91WS, 90WE 59.99A firm, fresh red, with a smoky baseline and balanced flavors of black cherry, damson plum, violet, polished oak and spice. This is structured by bright acidity and chewy tannins that come to the fore on the finish.
2008 Allegrini Palazzo delle Torre 90WS 15.99#60 Top 100 of 2011 This sleek, polished red offers juicy blackberry and black fruit flavors, backed by refined tannins and well-integrated acidity. Hard to stop sipping.
2007 Zenato Amarone 93WS 49.99Light tannins add subtle grip to this supple Amarone, framing flavors of sticky, sun-dried date, black cherry, and crushed black raspberry, with aromatic hints of sweet smoke, loose tea leaf and lots of ground spice.
2006 Michele Castellani Colle Cristi Amarone 93WS 39.99
Shows dried berry, spice and cigar box notes, with dried fruits. Full-bodied, with round, caressing tannins and lots of ripe fruit and toasty oak, yet balanced and juicy. Why wait? But patience will pay off. Best from 2011 through 2018.
2008 Zenato Ripassa 90WE 22.99This edition of Ripassa (a Ripasso-style Valpolicella wine) shows impressive intensity and enduring richness that recalls top shelf Amarone. The wine is dark and inky with sweet barbecue aromas and a fresh blast of mature cherry and chocolate on the finish.
2001 Bertani Amarone 94RB, 93WE, 92WA 69.99
Try this beautiful wine in order to understand how Amarone evolves and becomes more sophisticated with age. The aromas here are thick and penetrating with tones of dried fruit, cherry preserves, cola and resin.
2007 Michele Castellani Cinque Stelle Amarone 95WS 54.99
Tar and leather notes, with dense tannins, frame and focus this powerful red, which is layered with subtle hints of kirsch, coffee liqueur, dried herbs and grilled nuts. It’s tightly meshed right now, but with a seamlessness that creates an overall elegant style—the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove.
2005 Mazzi Castel 92RAS, 91WA 59.99
2006 Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castegnedi 91WA 39.99
2006 Speri 92WA, 91WS 79.99
2007 Cesari 90WS 44.99
2008 Luigi Righetti Capitel de’ Roari 89WE 24.99
1967 Bertani 279.99
1968 Bertani 299.99
2007 Lonardi 59.99
2007 Zonin 44.99
2007 Sartori 90WS 39.99
2008 Bertani Valpantena 87WE 15.99
2007 Lonardi 19.99
2008 Masi Campofiorin 14.99
2009 Zonin 17.99
WINTER WARMERSMORE AMARONES
...AND RIPASSOS!
ZENATO FAMILY
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BUYER’S GUIDEFRANCE by RHETT BEILETTI
ITALY by CHRIS SHERMAN
SOUTH AFRICA by SHANNON SPRENTALL
SPAIN by RHETT BEILETTI
AUSTRALIA by CHRIS SHERMAN
2010 Domaine La Colliere (Cotes du Rhone) 14.99 -- But for the grace of a country road this is Rasteau. But the law is the law. This is domaine owned and bottles and site specific and the vines are old. Wine is intense, structured and potent. 92RB
2009 Penley Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra), 16.99 -- Could be the best Penley of 2009 and pure Oz cab pure Australia, full of blackberries and hints of chocolate and Oz licorice, very drinkable, yet true to varietal and terroir. 94JH
2010 The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier (South Australia), 14.99 -- Almost all shiraz, elegant and concentration, purple and blue fruit with a noticeable mineral core and sturdy structure. 90ST
2000 Roland La Garde Grand Vin (Premieres Cotes de Blaye) 39.99 -- 1.5L 69.99 -- I drank this during a lavish new year’s steakstabaganza. Like satin. Ready to roll and almost outta here. 92RB
2007 Boarding Pass Shiraz (South Australia), 17.99 -- Takes your taste buds on a direct flight to the best of the Rhone As meaty as Cote-Rotie but with signature smoothness of great Aussie Shiraz. 90CS, 89WA
2010 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin (Marlborough), 11.99 -- New Zealand: This is my kind of kiwi SB, with pineapple and tropical flavors to sweeten the stern grapefruit notes and acidity. A NZ champ. Keep one in the fridge. 90WS, 89CS
2008 Black Slate Porrera (Priorat) 17.99 -- 60% garnacha, 40% Carinena, all curves no straightaways. Ripe, fleshy and hedonistic. 92RB
2007 Las Gravas (Jumilla) 19.99 -- 70% monastrell, 15% apiece cab and syrah. Earth and muscles and chocolate and cherries. Las Gravas must mean something about seriously good. 93RB
2009 Stump Jump GSM (McLaren Vale), 9.99 -- Much bigger and more adult than you deserve for the price. Serious grenache with deep dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors, Be patient in glass and cellar. 89CS 88ST
2009 Domaine de Fontsainte (Corbieres) 12.99 -- from ancient vineyards planted by the Romans, made by a family newbies there only since the 17th century. whole cluster fermentation used here gives the “squozed” black berry fruit flavor and whisper soft tannin grip that you do not feel but instead feel only as dryness on the finish, keeping the ripenesss from becoming sweet. sweet stuff! As good of a Corbieres as I have tasted, I bet as good as there is. 90RB
2009 Domaine Rapet Bourgogne ‘En Bully’ 19.99 -- this was a staple over the holidays, I also recommended to many then too in the store and you were not one I want to let you know now too. A beauty of a Pinot Noir from the Beaune that is drinking perfectly now and will for a few years too. This is like candy for the sophisticated palate, and I mean yours!
2008 Este (Eastern Andalucia) 8.99 -- based on 50% Monastrell (i didn’t even have to fight the impulse to say Mourvedre), then add 25% Tempranillo and the balance between cab, merlot, syrah and garnacha (is this what they call code switching?)... Este shows pluck and polish, is sleek and vinous, real wine for real...89RB
2010 Da Milano Arneis Langhe (Piedmont) 13.99 -- The signature white of the Piedmont is my favorite easy-drinker. Much more flesh, fruit and fun than any pinot grigio. 91 CS
2008 Falesco Vitiano; (Umbria) 7.99 -- The everyday drinkers’s super-Umbrian: merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese and maybe dark cherry preserves. Surprising complexity, easy drinking. 89WA
2009 Perazzeta Rosso Sara, (Tuscany) 11.99 -- So it’s not Montalcino, Sara comes from Montecucco nearby with the same grapes and family. Earthy Sangiovese with precision and power. Fire up the grill - and the pizza oven. 90CS 90RAS
2006 Antinori Pian de Brunello (Tuscany) 49.99 -- The glory of Brunello from great vintage (2006) and great producer (Antinori) at a deal. Rich, mysterious, packed with every Sangiovese flavor from red fruit to licorice and truffles. A keeper 95JS , 93WS, 92WA
2008 Tua Rita Perlato del Bosco Vino da Tavola. (Tuscany) 24.99 -- Love calling something this good “table wine’’ when it’s from a legendary maker in the same Bolgheri as the big boys. Sangiovese and cab has more black cherry and spice than many supers. 93WE, 92WS, 92WA, 92ST
2005 Muga Seleccion Especial (Rioja) 29.99 -- power personified is Muga’s style, and this does not let up there but it also has curves as well. The oak gives volume, creaminess and sweetness in the middle but no flavor, exactly what oak should do, highlight thank you, some spice, some Bordeaux-like earth tones and then lavish black fruits and length. 93RB 2009 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 9.99 -- A bold blend
of 65% Syrah, 32% Mourvedre, and 3% Viognier. Ripe black fruit, cherry and spice with floral notes from the splash of Viognier. Smooth and rich. This stuff is made for easy drinking. Killer buy! 90SS, (89WE)
2004 La Rioja Alta Reserva Vina Arana (Rioja) 24.99 -- i would say this is the Burgundy drinkers Rioja. classic cherry of tempranillo and that nice high floral, long and sily on the finish. from a classic vintage, this one can air out for 2 hrs before drinking for maaximum pleasure from the 1st glass. 92RB
2009 Andre Brunel Cotes du Rhone Villages “Sabrine” 13.99 -- the lush style of Rhone wine showing black and blue fruits, some garrigue and some intrigue. While it is completely ready to roll, it will age easily and develop for another 4 yrs. 90+RB
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BUYER’S GUIDE
NAPA VALLEY by MARK STITT
LATIN AMERICA by MARK STITT
2009 Catena Malbec 15.99 -- A top 100 Wine Spectator Wine for 2011 (#58), Catena is the largest selling Malbec in the country. B-21 has been a fan of Laura Catena’s wines for over 20 years and it comes as no surprise that this perennial winner has achieved such success. The 2009 is riper than previous years but really sticks to the tongue with its overlying flavors of plums and black cherries to the dusty tannins on the finish. We also have a little 2008 to compare which is a totally different wine at this stage. 90 MS
2007 Bodega Norton Malbec Riserva 14.99 -- Always one of my favorite malbecs, very ripe yet earthy and dry enough to stand up to food or just sipping, a characteristic in today’s wines that is hard to duplicate. Some people may think it carries too much wood, but I find at 5 years old, the oak has integrated fabulously over time. My go to Malbec. 91 points
2010 Conundrum 15.99 -- This mystery “conundrum’ of 7,8 or 9 white grape varieties (The blend and grapes vary each year) is still the leader in the white blend category. Slightly sweet but full and crisp, the 2010 seems more flattering than the ‘09. A staple for everyone’s table and the best price in over 5 years. 90 points
2009 Antica Chardonnay Napa Valley 24.99 -- A wonderful expression of montain grown chardonnay. While visiting the property last year, I got the chance to taste this current vintage alongside the previous two. The 2009 was much more subtle, less oak and more fruit concentration. I could see the vast improvement. The Wine Advocate reaffirmed...94 points in December’s issue. 92 points
2009 Boekenhoutskloof Chocolate Block 29.99 -- A well-crafted Rhone(ish) blend from Mark Kent and crew. 67% Syrah, 14% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cinsault and 2% Viognier. Rustic, earthy bouquet and a healthy quantity of herbs. Smooth and rounded on the entry with crisp acidity to cut through that plush dark berried fruit interlaced with rosemary and pepper. 91SS, (90RP)
2008 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 17.99 -- Same here with Mondavi. Even after the winery sold to Constellation in 2006, the Mondavi Cabernet program has not missed a beat. The 2007 Napa cab was probably the best deal in Napa Cabs for the vinatge. The ‘08 will probably shape up to be the same for it’s vintage, albeit not as classic as the fabulous ‘07’s. The combination of Martini’s and Mondavi’s Napa Cabs set the bar for great Napa Cabs for under $20. 90 points
2009 Spice Route Chakalaka 17.99 --A blend of 37% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre, 18% Carignan, 10% Petite Sirah, 10% Grenache and 4% Tannat. Great acidity and vibrant red fruit. I served it with Chakalaka (spicy authentic S. African veggie relish) and was a hit! Excellent value and fun to say. 91SS, (90WA, 90WS)
2008 Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley19.99 -- Another successful Cab from this undeniable leader in California Cabs, from Michael Martini’s Sonoma county bottling to his benchmark Lot Cab, Martini has become synonomous with high quality cabs at every price point. the 2008 Napa version is even better than the fabulous 2007 at this venture of it’s life. A classic Napa Cab at a most unpretentious Napa price. 91 points
2008 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 34.99 -- Terrior really shines though on this one; low yields, stony, clay rich soil with cool maritime climate. Racy in style. Dark and silky with hints of smoke, minerality and spice. This pinot is definitely for the people. 91SS, (91WS)
2007 Markham Merlot Napa Valley 14.99 -- While The Martini’s and Mondavi’s of the world set the benchmark for Cabernets in Napa Valley, Markham has always been synonomous with great value Napa Merlot. Even after the “Sideways” disaster that changed the way consumers viewed Merlot, Markham just sat back and kept pumping out wonderful soft, concentrated reds that won’t crunch the wallet. A Merlot you should not be embarrassed to have on your table...ever. 90 points
2009 De Toren Fusion V 41.99 -- Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rich currant and layered cocoa with hints of espresso. Big wine. Worth every penny. 93SS, (92WS)
2009 Colome Malbec 21.99 -- From our friends at Hess, Colome’s Estate Malbec is annually one of Argentina’s better values. This year is no different and may be the winery’s best to date. The 2008 was a Wine Spectator Top 100 wine and has many of the same trademarks as that year...blueberry, raspberry and blackberry flavors with exceptional elegance and length. With many diluted malbec offerings throughout the many shelves of retailers, it is comforting to rely on established producers as these three listed to confirm our belief in high quality affordable malbec. 91 points
2009 Casa Lapostolle Carmenere Cuvee Alexandre Apalta Vineyard 14.99 -- The trademark grape from Chile is expressed to its fullest by the Lapostolle Family. Flavors of chocolate and coffee define this wine with doses of ripe prunes and cherries. How for years could people confuse this with merlot because carmenere is really a taste un to itself. i can’t think of another carmenere to drink that will help you define what this grape is all about. 92 points
2008 Santa Rita Carmenere Riserva 9.99 -- This winery has been around for over 100 years and B-21 has been promoting for over 30 years now. This Carmenere, while not as flashy as Lapostolles, is a great introduction to carmenere. “Spice box, incense, balsamic, herbs; savory, ripe, no hard edges, excellent balance, drink now-5 years.” 90 points - The Wine Advocate (October 2010). 90 points
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CENTERFOLD: 2008 GINA GALLO SIGNATURE NAPA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Birthplace: Napa, Cal i forn iaEducation: Oak barre lsGPA: 92 (91-93WA)Mentors: Ernest Gal lo, Jul io Gal loSiblings: Louis M. Mart in i , Mart in Codax, Edna Val ley, Wi l l iam Hi l l , MacMurray Ranch, Rancho Zabaco,
Redwood Creek, Fre i Bros., Ecco DomaniValues: V ineyard character, layered f lavors.Favorite things: Fami ly, Cal i forn ia wine history, mounta in bik ing, p lay ing wi th twins.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series may nearly equal the quality of the 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. The flagship winery in the Ernest and Julio Gallo empire, the Gallo Family Vineyards has produced a bevy of delicious reds and whites. While I know many readers remember Gallo from the old days of hearty Burgundy and Chablis Blanc, they have long been committed to high quality, which is evident in not only these wines but others from their huge portfolio of wine estates.
-Robert Parker
$26 99 93 POINTS – THE WINE ADVOCATE750ml
Gina Gallo: Winemaker
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B-21.com | 13
POP QUIZ:“IF I CREATED A HOT, ROMANTIC WINE…”
Unless you shared a bottle of Salon with someone very special, the perfect wine of romance may exist only in our dreams. But what if you could invent any wine you wanted for the moment. We asked our staff to share their fantasies of the wine of love.
SHANNON SPRENTALL:I would have to go with something white since the
romance could sizzle out if you’re gazing into the other person’s eyes then find them cracking a purple smile. I don’t think so. Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles for me! Throw a pic of Bradley Cooper on a bottle of Agrapart Terroirs Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs (90WA, 39.99) and I am a happy camper. …Come to think of it, super-size it! I know we have magnums and double-mags in the back.
CHRIS SHERMAN :It would have to be a pinot noir. I can’t
imagine a more romantic dinner than pinot with crisply seared duck breast, rich fat on the outside, juicy pink inside, earthy mushrooms and berries on the side, a staple celebration at our house. The perfect pinot would be rich and ripe. Sorry Burgundy, but I’d want a super ripe Californian, preferably from some place south like Gary’s Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands (see B-21’s Gary Vineyard Pinots in stock below). I’d name it Cherry Bomb and commission Ralph Steadman to do the label. 2008 Siduri 92WS 44.99 2009 Loring 93WS 39.992009 Lucia 92WA 59.99
RHETT BEILETTI:Spanish Fly Chardonnay -- I think it obvious, but some-
how I never did see that thing, Spanish Fly in the 1970s (“Isn’t it ironic?”). It must have been a moth. I thought of this as a brand name to take it right at the cute critters and then some. I mean, if there is a stereotypical wine that women like, and I repeat stereotypical, it is Chardonnay. …Because stereotypes do come from somewhere even though they are often incorrect. So, dudes liking Chardonnay, and dames liking Cabernet, please forgive me.
MARK STITT:Well it’s obvious it needs to be pink and
how can it not be “loverly” without being “bubbly.” There are many domestic sparkling roses that would be perfect for a gathering or just one on one. For the budget minded there is Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rose ($8.99) from Washington, a delicate sparkler, with straw-berry impressions coming through in the nose, and on the palate. For the “personal” touch, my favorite bubbly from this hemisphere has consistently been Roederer Estate Brut Rose ($22.99). “Lush and rich, with bright cherry and red apple aromas and layered flavors of raspberry and cinnamon that finish on a note of crisp minerality,” per Wine Spectator (91 points), says it all in one sentence. Either one is the perfect wine for the Valentine.
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BIGWORLDSMALL BUDGET
Spain just gets better and better. What a wine country! The more we explore, the more we fall in love with Spanish wines, vintage after vintage. Our freshest batches of great values at ridiculous prices are juicy reds from the Mediterranean coast, and old and new favorites from Rioja and Ribera. Parker says he was shocked by some of these values, and you will be too!
¡España!
2010 Castaño Monastrell (Yecla) 7.99“Bodegas Castano’s unoaked 2010 Monastrell (100%) is a glass-coating opaque purple color. Asian spices, incense, black fruits and chocolate compose the nose of this juicy, fruity, plush offering. Lengthy on the palate and well-balanced, this outstanding value will provide enjoyment for another 3-4 years.” 89WA
2004 Dehesa La Granja (Ribera del Duero) 14.99“This Tempranillo is the best new value in central Spain. The pedigree includes one of Ribera del Duero’s best winemakers Alejandro Fernandez and his wife, who created the champion Pesquera and also Condado de Haza. Dark with ripe fruits, smoke, and tar, this is a juicy one. Parker calls it outstanding for depth and length, and I’d say breadth, you can open now or over the next ten years.” - Bob Sprentall, 92WA
2009 Sicoris (Costers del Segre) 12.99“35% Garnacha, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Tempranillo, with the balance Merlot and Syrah. Aromas of cedar, spice box, violets, black cherry, and black currant lead to a round, smooth-textured, savory wine that is ready to drink.” 90 WA
2009 Beso de Vino Selección (Aragon) 8.99“85% Syrah and 15% Garnacha. Black cherry and blueberry aromas lead to a dense, plush, savory wine which finishes with no hard edges. It is shockingly good for the money.” 90WA
2010 Mas Oller “Pur” (Emporda) 17.99 “50% Syrah, 30% Garnacha, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Notes of game, Asian spices, lavender, and black fruits compose the nose of this savory, full-flavored, bargain-priced offering. It will blossom for another 2-3 years and drink well through 2020.” 91WA
2010 Rio Madre (Rioja) 9.99 “2010 Rio Madre was one of my first wines tasted in Rioja
this year - at breakfast! This is one of the first vintages for an innovative young winery in Rioja Baja where the river Ebro flattens out under the old Roman bridge. I’ve never tasted a Rioja so rich at barely a year old. It could that I’ve never tasted a 100% Graciano wine. It is big and blackberry filled. Credit the first rate crop of 2010. The family behind Rio Madre is very smart (Madre made the best tortilla I’ve had, the egg kind) and so is their counselor, the eminent Jorge Ordonez.” 90 RS Bob Sprentall
2009 Creta Roble (Ribera del Duero) 14.99 100% Tempranillo sourced from a 40-year-old vineyard.
A glass-coating opaque purple color, it offers up a brooding bouquet of pencil shavings, espresso, Asian spices, incense, and assorted black fruits. Structured on the palate with layers of succulent fruit, this concentrated, lengthy effort admirably reflects the strength of the superb 2009 vintage.” 90WA
2006 Campo Viejo Reserva (Rioja) 9.99 This is a go-to value from Rioja. 100% Tempranillo and a perfect
grilling-out wine and easy to drink. 88SM
2010 Evodia 90WA 8.99 Altovinum’s 2010 Evodia is 100% Garnacha sourced from the
highest elevation vineyards of Garnacha of any DO in Spain. It offers up a slightly exotic nose of earthy minerality, mocha, black cherry, and black raspberry. Savory, concentrated, and with a forward personality, this great value will deliver pleasure over the next 3-4 years. 90 points Wine Advocate # 195 (Jun 2011)
2009 Casa Castillo Monastrell 90WA 9.99 The just bottled 2009 Monastrell from a superior vintage has a slightly more roasted character, greater density and richness, and exceptional length. It, too, can be enjoyed over the next 3-4 years. Casa Castillo’s wines are produced entirely from estate-grown fruit.
2008 Castell del Remei Gotim Bru 90WA 12.99 Castell del Remei’s red entry, the 2008 Gotim Bru, is a blend of 35% Tempranillo, 32% Garnacha, with the balance 3 other varieties that spent 10 months in French and American oak. Medium purple-colored, it gives up a fragrant perfume of Asian spices, violets, cedar, black cherry, and blackberry. Ripe, flavorful, and long on the palate, it delivers remarkable complexity for its humble price. It is an outstanding value. Drink it over the next 6 years.
By Summer Martin
B-21.com | 15
http://www.b-21.com/2004-Bodegas-y-Vinedos-Fernandez-Rivera-Dehesa-la-Granja/productinfo/SRDDEH04AE/
THE STINGER
The oldest Single Barrel Bourbon in the world at 18 years, Elijah Craig Single Barrel is a rare marvel of whiskey-making. The brand carries the name of Rev. Elijah Craig, the man who discovered the method of making true Kentucky Bourbon when he stored his wares in barrels that had been charred in a fire. Only a handful of the millions of aging Bourbon barrels are allowed to mature this long, resulting in an extremely complex, layered sensory experience. The barrels are hand selected by Parker and Craig Beam, great-grandsons of Jim Beam, and after 18 years of Kentucky seasons nearly 2/3 of the contents of the barrel have evaporated into “Angel’s Share”!
Dark honey color, lushly aromatic, fragrance like a bouquet of wildflowers: honeysuckle and clover. Viscous and luxurious on the tongue, it offers bold flavors of dark toffee, lots of oak, and finishes with bitter almond and a touch of raisin. Mellow; hardly any bite when chilled, which makes it highly sippable, almost like Cognac. 98 points - Wine Enthusiast (September 1, 2010)
By Mark Stitt
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$3999
ELIJAH CRAIG 18 YEARS OLD 90°
Jefferson’s Presidential Select 98WE 89.99
Elijah Craig 18 Year Old Bourbon 98WE 49.99
Flor de Caña 49.99
Jameson 79.99
Aberlour Single Malt Speyside 89.99
Bowmore Single Malt Islay 99.99
Buchanan’s Blended 69.99
Bunnahabhain Single Malt Islay 99.99
Chivas Regal Blended Scotch 96-100WE 46.99
Dalmore Single Malt Highland 149.99
Dewar’s Blended 69.99
Famous Grouse Malt 49.99
Glenfiddich Single Malt Highland 69.99
Glenlivet Single Malt Highland 75.99
Glenmorangie Extremely Rare Single Malt Highland 79.99
Highland Park Single Malt Orkney 99.99
Johnnie Walker Gold Label Blended 79.99
Laphroaig Single Malt Islay 89.99
Macallan Single Malt Highland 375ml 79.99
Macallan Single Malt Highland 149.99
Suntory Yamazaki Malt 129.99
18 YEAR OLD LIQUORS
SCOTCH
BOURBON
RUM
IR ISH WHISKEY
By Mark Stitt
While in life, the pinnacle time to “coming of age” is the maturation from adolescent to adult when someone turns eighteen. At this time, the responsibilities of adulthood suddenly arrive...voting, military choice and in some areas, the age where you can legally sip your favorite alcoholic beverage. But in the whisky world, eighteen is considered old but unbelievably mature and refined. Most master distillers will tell you that 18 years, and no more, is the maximum time any whisky should spend in barrel to achieve the utmost purity and elegance. After that it’s wasted time. The analogy to life is oh so similar. See the choices of 18 year olds that we at B-21 have to offer. A prime list, indeed.
“Some of the Scotch is finished in Oloroso Sherry casks (for 3 years) and Bourbon Casks(for 15 years), which accounts for the honey and dried fruit fragrance. The spirit has a smooth, soft feel and a touch of juicy sweetness. Look for caramel and vanilla and rather aggressive oakiness, finishing with orange peel. Best with some time to open up.” 90 points - Wine Enthusiast (December 15, 2011)
$7999
GLENMORANGIE EXTREMELY RARE SINGLE MALT HIGHLAND
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GREEK WINE & OUZO OUZO POMEGRANATE
MARTIN IBy Summer Martin
By Summer Martin
Taste the increasing variety of Greek wines at B-21 from Naoussa to the islands, dry and sweet, modern and traditional.
Summer Martin: Now that you’re a mom, at what age will you give your kids a
taste of wine?
Cat Cora: When the time is ready I will know. We let our kids smell our wine,
which is a good first step. To smell the bouquet, the characteristics and see if they can figure out what they smell.
SM: When and how did you fall in love with wine?
CC: When I was in culinary school and tasted the good stuff. I became VP of
the Wine Club at CIA (the Culinary Institute of America) and wine became a real love.
SM: You grew up in a restaurant family that had cafes and diners in small
Mississippi towns. Did they serve wine in the restaurants or at home?
CC: Yes, wine has always played a big part in family meals and gatherings, along
with the bountiful food that has always been at the table on Holidays or special occasions. Some of my fondest memories are of fantastic dinners shared with my family.
SM: When did you first visit Greece? What was it like?
CC: I remember visiting my family on the Island of Skopelos ever since I was a
little girl. The smells of roasting lamb, fresh dill, salty air, and sun-soaked tomatoes and olives always bring me
back to those wonderful summers spent there surrounded by loved ones.
SM: What are your favorite Greek wines? How about Retsina?
CC: Retsina I enjoy on special occasions, and I do like ouzo as well, especially
in my specialty cocktail, the Ouzotini, which can be found at my restaurants, Cat Cora’s Kitchen, as well as at Kouzzina by Cat Cora, but for day to day I prefer more bold, rich Greek reds such as Klima or Agiorgitiko.
SM: How about in Napa where you live?
CC: I actually live in Southern CA, and there are several delicious Central
Coast wines that we enjoy.
SM: Which of your Coranation wines do you like best? Any other favorites in
the neighborhood?
CC: I love the deep, bold Coranation Cabernet Sauvignon with heavier
meals, and the crisp and refreshing Coranation Sauvignon Blanc in the warmer months or with light(er) meals.
SM: What wines, Greek or American, go with Greek dishes like moussaka,
grilled seafood or lamb?
CC: I enjoy more bold, hearty wines like, Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noirs
with rich foods, such as lamb, beef, or heavier tomato-based sauces, and lighter Chardonnays or Pinot Grigios with white fish or grilled seafoods.
SM: What do you like with baklava and all those great Greek cookies and pastries.
CC: I actually love to enjoy a small demi tasse of traditional strong Greek coffee
with baklava (pistachio is my favorite), Greek butter cookies, and other assorted Greek pastries.
SM: What’s your next big project? A travel/ cooking show in Greece?
CC: I have several things up my sleeve that I’m currently working on, including
a new show that will begin airing in 2012, as well as several new specialty food products and exciting new restau-rants opening up all around the US.
SM: Ever been to Tarpon Springs? What are your impressions?
CC: I love Tarpon Springs! It takes me back to Greece and I love the people there.
IRON CHEF Cat Cora Interview
4 oz. pomegranate juice4 ounces pineapple juice2 ounces ouzo2 ounces vodka1 teaspoon fresh lime juice2 lime slices, for garnishiceIn a martini shaker, combine all ingredients with 1/2 cup of ice. Shake well and strain into 2 chilled martini glasses rimmed with sugar.Garnish each glass with a lime wedge.
serves 2
WHITE2009 Hatzidakis Santorini 90W&S, 89RB 16.992010 Boutari Santorini 90W&S 15.992010 Boutari Moschofilero Mantinia 92W&S, 87WA 12.99
RED2005 Dalamaras Paliokalis 90RB 23.99 2009 Konstantinos Ampelou Gis Red 91CS, 91RB 16.992007 Boutari Naoussa 14.992008 Boutari Nemea 12.992008 Nikiforou Agiorgitiko 88CS 11.99
DESSERTKourtaki Mavrodaphne 9.992008 Tsantali Imiglykos Naousa 10.99Commandaria Alasia 14.99Commandaria St. John 19.99
OUZOAchaia Clauss 92° 19.99Americanaki 34.99Athena 10.99Boutari 15.99Cambas 13.99Metaxa 14.99Ouzo #12 13.99Plomari 15.99Tsantali 14.99
18 | B-21.com
OUZO POMEGRANATE
MARTIN I4 oz. pomegranate juice4 ounces pineapple juice2 ounces ouzo2 ounces vodka1 teaspoon fresh lime juice2 lime slices, for garnishiceIn a martini shaker, combine all ingredients with 1/2 cup of ice. Shake well and strain into 2 chilled martini glasses rimmed with sugar.Garnish each glass with a lime wedge.
DON’T MISS OUT ON EMAIL DEALS!
REGISTER ONLINE FOR THESE GREAT DEALS!
I’m always on the hunt for new releases and fine old vintages that I can offer to select customers at a special discount. When I find a deal in the kind of wine you like I’ll send you an email alert with a great price you can have for a limited-time with an E-code.
All you have to do is register on our website (b-21.com) with your address and your wine tastes, from Bordeaux to zinfandel.
Here are a few emails I sent recently.
$2399E-SAVE
$2999REG. PRICE
$1699E-SAVE
$1999REG. PRICE
B-21.com | 19
43380 U.S. 19 NP.O. Box 849Tarpon Springs, FL 34688-0849
888-B21-WINE (221-9463)727-937-5049
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B-21 Wine Company • www.B-21.com • [email protected] • Monday-Saturday 9am-9pm • Sunday 11am-9pm
Learn German Wine In Only 30 Minutes With Dr. L!EASY, LIGHT, AND DELICIOUSLY DRY
Special prices on all of Ernie’s winesPLUS Learn German (wine) in 30 minutes!
LIMITED SEATING. Sign up online at www.b-21.com
The mad winemaker of the Mosel is coming toB-21 in Tarpon Springs
for an exclusiveWine Tasting and Bottle Signing
1 to 5 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 25
WILD ABOUT RIESLING Meet Ernie Loosen
FUNDERBAR!
“Ernie Loosen brought the Mosel and its Rieslings into the 21st century with a bang.” Hugh Johnson
“He has done it by a mixture of irreverence, tireless traveling and an uncompromising quest for quality…” Jancis Robinson
“With his ebullient manner, unruly hair and boundless energy, the charismatic Ernst Loosen is one of the most recognizable figures in the wine world.” Wine & Spirits
