Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

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www.jerseyeatsmagazine.com Food & Drink in South Jersey FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 COMPLIMENTARY

description

Going Dutch: Slow cooking in the best post in your kitchen

Transcript of Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Page 1: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

www.jerseyeatsmagazine.com

Food & Drink in South Jersey

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012COMPLIMENTARY

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2 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 3

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C O N T E N T SF E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 2

D E PA R T M E N T S :

16 I N T H E K I T C H E NMeet Chef Ahmed El executive chef at Brio in Marlton.

19 W I N EChocolate and wine: A pairing made for lovers.

6 I N S E A S O NStewing things up with turnips, the underappreciated vegetable.

26 B E E RBidding farewell to Guinness.

14 L U N C H S P O TEating Woodbury.

36 W H A T W E ’ R E D R I N K I N GHot toddy: A classic winter drink.

38 W H A T ’ S I N S T O R EKitchen seduction: Tools for the foodie.

40 D E S T I N A T I O N D I N I N GHead to Lancaster, Pa., where the only thing better than the quilts is the food.

22 G O I N G D U T C HFor wintertime comfort food, turn to the slowest pot in your cupboard.

12 S W E E T S F O R S W E E T SHandmade confections to live for from Chef Robert Bennett at Classic Cake.

28 R E E L F O O DIt’s Oscar season, time to highlight films where cuisine had the leading role.

10 C O O K I N G U P L O V ECouples take to class to whip up recipes and rekindle romance in the process.

31 N E I G H B O R H O O DR E S T A U R A N TThe Coastline Bar and Grill is a Cherry Hill icon.

F E AT U R E S :

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 5

F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 2

E D I T O R ’ S N O T E

I like February because it is my birthday month. With it comes two certainties: I will discover yet another wrinkle and my 8-year-old will make me breakfast in bed. If history repeats, her menu will be sans the scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, buttered toast or any of the usual Great American morning delicacies known to clog arteries and increase cholesterol.

Instead, at 6:30 a.m., I’ll be staring down a bowl of lettuce-laced peanut but-ter, sprinkled with broken bits of Cheez-Its (for texture, she’ll say), which would probably taste good if I was a hamster. While she scores an A for imagination, her cooking skills need some work.

This brings me to two words we mention in this issue: cooking classes. South Jersey offers plenty of cooking classes (go to jerseyeatsmagazine.com for

a comprehensive list), whether you want to be the next Julia Child or if you simply want to impress the in-laws. Couples looking to do something different this win-ter can stir up more than a new recipe in classes devoted to pairs. And the classes geared toward children will be just right for my daughter. I always say: Any oppor-tunity to encourage an interest.

She’ll have a good time, meet kids her age and learn to perfect my birthday breakfast.

But I’d better be careful. If she gets too good, I might need a cardiologist.

What’s Cooking?

JerseyEatswww.jerseyeatsmagazine.com

VOLUME 1, NUMBER 4FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFMary Price

SENIOR COPY EDITORSSheri Berkery

Karen MorganTom Wilk

CONTRIBUTING WRITERSBeth D’AddonoKatie KalvaitisJanet Leonardi

Jeff LinkousDr. Gary C. Pavlis

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERSDouglas Bovitt

Al SchellGene Koehler

CREATIVE DIRECTORTara M. Askin

ADVERTISING DIRECTORWilliam Janus

[email protected]

ADVERTISING MANAGERSMelissa Bettner

[email protected] Martino

[email protected]

ADMINISTRATIVE SERVICES Jacqui Wilcox

CIRCULATION Rick Steinmetz

EXECUTIVE EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER

Gene Williams [email protected]

PUBLIC INFORMATION Jersey Eats is published six times a year by the Courier-Post. Phone,

(856) 486-2920. Fax, (856) 663-2831. Jersey Eats welcomes editorial

ideas and submissions in writing by email. We assume no responsibility for the return of unsolicited mate-rial. Editorial inquiries: (856) 486-

2920, [email protected]. No portion of Jersey Eats may be reproduced without the express

consent of the Courier-Post.

Courier-PostA GANNETT NEWSPAPER

301 Cuthbert Blvd.Cherry Hill NJ 08002

ONLINE ONLY FEBRUARY/MARCH

ON THE COVER: Chef Jared Frazer with a duck confit made in a Dutch oven, a perfect winter dish.Photography by DOUGLAS BOVITT.

EAT MY WORDS

by Tammy Paolino, a

South Jersey food lover, at

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JERSEYEATSMAGAZINE.COM has a whole new look. Our redesign is more reader-

friendly and helps you keep up to date with the South Jersey food and drink world. Let us know your

thoughts. Email us at [email protected]. We look forward to hearing from you.

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Turnip Vegetable Stew

Recipe courtesy of Janet Davis, chef/owner at Scotch Bonnets, Medford

INGREDIENTS: • 2 Large turnips, cubed• 2 Medium white potatoes, cubed• ½ Cup green beans, chopped • ½ Cup carrots, sliced• ½ Cup celery, sliced thick• 1 Small sweet onion, chopped • ½ Cup red peppers, chopped• 4 Large plum tomatoes, cubed• 1 Tbsp. cilantro, chopped • ¾ Tbsp. sea salt• 1 Oz. (1/4 stick) unsalted butter• 3 Cups water

  DIRECTIONS: 1. Add water, sea salt, butter, turnips, potatoes and carrots to large saucepan. 2. Bring to boil over medium heat, then simmer for 5 min-utes. 3. Add remaining ingredients and cook for an additional 5 to 7 minutes.

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I N S E A S O N

Turning toturnipsFEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 7

A common root vegetable just like beets, turnips can be chopped and eaten raw but most recipes call for cooked and mashed turnips that can be folded into soups and stews. Available all year, cooks should look for brightly colored turnips with creamy-looking bulbs and a violet-hued ring around the tops. Baby turnips might not have developed their violet tops and may resemble large white spring radishes. In spring, freshly harvested turnips will have their greens attached. Settle for firm turnips without blemishes that feel heavy for their size.

-Mary Price

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Turnip Thins

 Recipe courtesy of Janet Davis, chef/owner at Scotch Bonnets, Medford

INGREDIENTS: • 2 Large turnips• 2 Cups vegetable oil• ½ Tsp. sea salt• ½ Tsp. fresh ground black

pepper  DIRECTIONS: 1. Add oil to frying pan and heat at medium-high temperature.

2. Peel turnip. Then, using a mandolin, slice thin.

3. Fry turnips slices for about 3 minutes, flipping them over after a minute or so.

4. Drain and enjoy this light, flimsy sweet treat as is!  Or sprinkle on a little salt and pepper.

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10 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

Illustration by TAR

A M

. ASK

IN

RomanceCooking up

A couples cooking class can be the recipe for relationship successIt really doesn’t matter whether you

and your partner never simmered soup to-gether or if you are aspiring to become the next top chefs, you’ll have to admit food exudes passion and love.

So with Valentine’s Day looming and weeks of  chilly stay-indoors weather ahead, why not treat yourself and a sweetheart to a couples cooking class?Kathy S. Gold, executive chef owner of The Cooking Company and In the Kitchen Cooking School in Haddonfield says her couples classes are a huge success. “They’ve become a wonderful date night activity. We used to offer our couples-classes only on Saturday evenings but they’ve become so popular, we’ve now added Fridays to our roster.” February also sees Gold adding a

Valentine’s baking class on the 12th and an actual Valentine’s Day class on the 14th where couples can whip up and then share a delectable pan-seared romantic rack of lamb with cherry port reduction.

Gold says couples cooking together is similar to doing a dance for two in the kitchen, “As a couple participates in cook-ing they play off each other with the food becoming very sensual as you look at it, smell it and taste it together.”

Other experts agree and say sharing quality time in the kitchen with a significant other can do wonders for a relationship. They point out cooking together not only affords a couple the opportunity to spend more time together while strengthening their communication skills but it’s also been

known to sometimes add a tasty dash of spice to their love life as well.

Just ask Janet A. Davis, executive chef owner of Jamaican-inspired Scotch Bon-nets Restaurant and Catering in Medford. “There’s a wonderful intimacy about being in a kitchen together and we encourage our cooking school students to totally relax as they become more informed about Carib-bean cuisine and culture and also feed their senses.”  

Dianne Massaro of Sewell can attest to that as she and her husband, Mike, have enjoyed perfecting their culinary skills with Davis. “Mike is a wonderful cook. In fact, his grandfather was a chef and some of our best family times center around us cooking

By JANET LEONARDI

Continued on Page 11

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 11

and sharing meals together.”      To encourage others to get started and

enjoy similar experiences, Scotch Bonnets is offering a special “Be My Valentine” couples class on Monday, Feb. 13. “Usu-ally our classes have published menus so participants will know what they will be cooking and eating, but this hands-on tropical meal is designed to not only be steamy but also to be a total surprise,” Da-vis says. “We want couples to realize they can have real fun and some sizzle with the food.”

Romance also abounds in the charm-ing centuries-old farmhouse ambieance of Cherry Hill’s La Campagne restaurant, which houses The Cooking School. Execu-tive chef owner, Richard Benussi, kicks off Valentine’s week with a “Menu for Two” cooking class on Thursday, Feb. 9. “This class will feature a three-course menu that can be re-created at home for that extra special someone,” Benussi says.

Benussi, who plans his menus on the freshest ingredients available right before each class, explains romantic meals should be simple and flavorful with a hint of the exotic.  “The salad might be arugula and pears tossed with a little oil and vinegar because the peppery flavor of the arugula matches perfectly with the light, sweet flavor of pears.  A good entrée choice can be something like a simple pasta pescatore. This particular dish creates an opportunity for each person to add his or her favorite seafood ingredients like lobster, mussels, scallops and looks beautiful on the table.”

But whatever dish you choose to cook up this winter, cooking it up with someone you love can make it even tastier.

For additional information on cooking classes, dates, times and fees please contact: In the Kitchen Cooking School10 Mechanic St.Haddonfield(609) 206-4511 www.inthekitchencooking-school.com Scotch Bonnets Restaurant & Catering20 South Main St.Medford(609) 654-6006 www.scotchbonnets.com La CampagneThe Cooking School312 Kresson RoadCherry Hill(856) 429-7647www.lacampagne.com

Continued from Page 10

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12 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

Why not sweeten up your Valentine’s Day by skipping that romantic dinner and heading straight to dessert?

Executive Pastry Chef Robert Ben-nett of Classic Cake in Cherry Hill, a master of sugary confections, is glad to help as he’s whipping up delectables sure to melt the heart of your special sweet-heart.

“Many of our desserts will be Valen-tine-themed,” Bennett says. “The heart-shaped cream puffs filled with vanilla custard, cream and strawberries are a big favorite as are our red velvet cupcakes topped with vanilla butter cream and our conversation heart cookies.”

Of course, no Valentine’s Day is com-plete without chocolate. “We are mak-ing a heart that combines creamy milk chocolate from Ghana and dark choco-late from Venezuela, filled with rectangu-lar butter toffees,” Bennett says. “We’ll also have caramel milk chocolate truffles and mendiants, which are little coins of Tanzanian dark chocolate studded with toasted almonds, cashews and dried sour cherries.”

If your heart’s desire still yearns for cake, it’s not a problem. “Our devil’s food chocolate forest cake layered with dark chocolate mousse will be baked in a heart shape for the occasion,” Bennett says.

From melt-in-your-mouth cream puffs to decadent chocolates, it’s a day to indulge

By JANET LEONARDI • Photography by AL SCHELL

For recipes, see pages 13 & 18

Executive Pastry Chef Robert Bennett

Page 13: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

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INGREDIENTS: • 1 Cup water• 1 Cup milk• 1/2 Tsp. salt• 2 Tsp. sugar• 8 Oz. butter• 2 Cups all-purpose flour• 7 Eggs

  DIRECTIONS: 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. In a medium saucepan, bring the water, milk, salt, sugar and butter to a boil. Stir in the flour all at once and beat vigorously over medium-high heat until the mixture comes away from the pan and leaves a thin film in the pan.

3. Remove from the heat and place mixture into small mixer. Mix on me-dium speed until some of the steam has dissipated, approximately 5 minutes.

4. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Remove from the mixer. Pipe onto parchment in heart shapes and brush with egg wash.

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GIOVANNI429 S. Evergreen Ave.(856) 845-0045

Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Saturday and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday. Though the plain pizza is great, the Margherita slice excels. The fresh mozzarella and basil

atop a slightly sweet red sauce and the thin crust makes this a tasty departure from the regular pie. Wash it down with a soda made especially for the shop while watching Italian football or soap operas. $2.50 for a gourmet slice.

RED EAGLE PRODUCE AND ICE CREAM555 S. Evergreen Ave. (856) 845-5885 Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. most days. Fresh and homemade are the hallmarks of this Woodbury

favorite. Hand-pulled white-meat chicken, fresh grapes, celery, mayo and spices make up the best-selling, from-scratch chicken salad. At least four varieties of soup are offered daily during the winter – all of them homemade. If you’re lucky, you’ll arrive on Wally Soup day. It’s a silky, spicy marriage of cheeseburgers and mac and cheese in soup form. Finish it off with a slice of Red Eagle’s famous pies. $4.99 each for the soup and sandwich.

WOODBURY STATION CAFÉ 101 Cooper St. (856) 384-6700

Open daily at 8 a.m. Lunch served from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. A little bit of everything is available at this newcomer to the local food scene. Several times per week the staff breaks out giant drums of charcoal to prepare the smoked pulled pork for the “Bean Snack.” The smoky, tangy BBQ pork on buttery brioche is served with cole slaw and a piggyback of baked beans. $8.95

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GIA NINA’S312 S. Evergreen Ave. (856) 845-6500 Open 11 a.m. Daily. A go-to for a quick lunch for everyone, Gia Nina’s offers pasta, pizza, sandwiches and salad. One daily special, a fresh fruit salad is your basic mixed greens topped with grilled chicken, sliced apples and pears and candied walnuts with a side of fresh champagne-lemon vinaigrette. At $6.95, paired with fresh-baked herbed rolls, it’s a salad that’s a satisfying steal.

RITZ PASTRY & COFFEE SHOPPEEvergreen Square Shopping Center Evergreen and Red Bank avenues (856) 848-7082 Open Daily. Ritz offers pastries that rival

any South Philly bakery, and with good reason. The Frombach family started baking three generations ago across the Delaware River. Their Woodbury shop has been making traditional pastries in town since 1984. Their cannolis are made-to-order with sweetened ricotta cheese and chocolate chips. They offer them with chocolate and vanilla pastry cream. Stick with the classic. $2.50 each.

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Final S&T16 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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I N T H E K I T C H E N

JE: Was your mother a good cook? AE: Yes, and the funny thing is, even as a chef, I can never reproduce her recipes.

JE: Who would make a better date:  Giada De Laurentiis  or Paula Deen? AE: Just on looks — Giada. But Paula would probably be better conversa-tion and she’s a Southern woman.

JE: What is your worst kitchen acci-dent?AE: I burned the back of my hand with hot sauté oil. It’s like a tattoo on my hand. To chefs, burn marks are like tattoos.

JE: If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? AE: A lawyer. I am good at debating.

JE: What belongs in a mirepoix?AE: Carrots, celery and onions, that’s the classic, but there other variations.

JE: You’re stranded on a desert island. What food can’t you live with-out and you can’t say water and fruit. AE: Peanut butter and jelly. That’s my go-to.

JE: What’s your favorite word? AE: Fishing; because it is something I love to do.

JE: What would  you do if you had a time machine? AE: Go back to see some dinosaurs.

JE: Do you like Jerry or Tom?AE: Jerry.

JE: If you could speak to one type of animal, what would it be? AE: A bear. I could reason with him to not eat me.

JE: What was the best thing before sliced bread? AE: French fries. I love potatoes and I cut my own fries .

JE: Do you speak with your dog/pet? AE: I had a cat once and I don’t think I ever talked to it.

CHEF

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Final S&T18 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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*Finance offer subject to credit approval, applies to purchases of new Yamaha Motorcycles, ATVs & Scooters made on a Yamaha Installment Financing loan account from 1/1/12-6/30/12. Minimum contract length 24 months, maximum 36 months. Minimum amount financed $5,000. Fixed APR of 3.99%, 4.99%, 5.99% or 12.99% will be assigned based on credit approval criteria. Monthly payments per $1,000 financed based on 36-month term are $29.52 at 3.99%, $29.97 at 4.99%, $30.42 at 5.99% and $33.69 at 12.99%. **Customer Cash offer good on select 2011 (and prior year) models between 1/1/12 - 6/30/12. Offer good only in the U.S., excluding the state of Hawaii. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. ATVs with engine sizes over 90cc are recommended for use only by riders age 16 years and older. Yamaha recommends that all ATV riders take an approved training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887- 2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing; never carry passengers; never engage in stunt riding; riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix; avoid excessive speed; and be particularly careful on difficult terrain. Professional riders depicted on closed courses. ©2011 Yamaha Motor Corp. U.S.A. All rights reserved. • yamaha-motor.com

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*Finance offer subject to credit approval, applies to purchases of new Yamaha Motorcycles, ATVs & Scooters made on a Yamaha Installment Financing loan account from 1/1/12-6/30/12. Minimum contract length 24 months, maximum 36 months. Minimum amount financed $5,000. Fixed APR of 3.99%, 4.99%, 5.99% or 12.99% will be assigned based on credit approval criteria. Monthly payments per $1,000 financed based on 36-month term are $29.52 at 3.99%, $29.97 at 4.99%, $30.42 at 5.99% and $33.69 at 12.99%. **Customer Cash offer good on select 2011 (and prior year) models between 1/1/12 - 6/30/12. Offer good only in the U.S., excluding the state of Hawaii. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. ATVs with engine sizes over 90cc are recommended for use only by riders age 16 years and older. Yamaha recommends that all ATV riders take an approved training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887- 2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing; never carry passengers; never engage in stunt riding; riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix; avoid excessive speed; and be particularly careful on difficult terrain. Professional riders depicted on closed courses. ©2011 Yamaha Motor Corp. U.S.A. All rights reserved. • yamaha-motor.com

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  DIRECTIONS: 1. Heat egg, yolks and simple syrup over a bain-marieuntil very warm and steam is emitted. Remove from the heat and whip until very thick.

2. Incorporate 1/3 of the whipped cream into the choco-late to form a ganache. Fold the ganache into the whipped egg mixture. Fold in remaining cream.

3. Layer the mousse between the slices of cake. Chill and serve.

Serves 4

Page 19: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 19

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W I N E

The taste of

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I think it is a given that during the Valentine’s holiday season anyone with even a smidgen of romance will require wine and chocolate. But many of us do not think of them together, or if we do, we put them together and the match fails. At this time of the year, we don’t want to fail. Now I’m talking mostly to the guys out there. I know most of us would wish this holiday would just go away. It costs too much money and so often there is that look that only your significant other can give you when you have

gone down a road that should have been left untraveled. I’m here to help, at least with the wine and chocolate. The flowers and the jewelry still are up to you.

Wine and chocolate together can boost the romantic, sensual feel-ings of this holiday and it is a gift of nature and a fact that shouldn’t go unnoticed that chocolate melts at body temperature. Both products have complex flavors, aromas, and even heart health benefits. Both un-

By Dr. Gary C. PavlisDr. Pavlis is a Rutgers Extension agent and member

of the Garden State Wine Growers Association.

Continued on Page 20

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Page 20: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T20 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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deniably linked to romance, however, chocolate as we know it today only has been produced for about 200 years. Centuries before that, the Aztec and Mayan cultures of South America mixed cacao powder with water to produce a dark, bitter drink that they preferred over any other. Later, the addition of milk, sugar and flavorings gave rise to today’s chocolate prod-ucts.

Like any food and wine match, there are those that work and those that don’t. Much of the success depends on the chocolate that is cho-sen. When I was young, there really weren’t many choices. Milk chocolate was the only thing you could buy and I, for one, never complained when I got it. Chocolate snobs prefer only dark chocolate and talk about the percentage cacao content as if they were discussing the advantages of

24-karat gold over 14-karat. It’s a macho thing,

I think. Not that I don’t like dark choco-late, but for me choco-late will

always be an

indulgence, and since I

prefer it as des-sert, I want it to be

at least a little sweet.But if we are going for

the dark chocolate match, the key is fruity, higher alcohol, and not tan-nic. A California cabernet sauvignon with some fruit will work, but try not to get one that leaves you spitting toothpicks. It is great with a steak, but when you add all that tannin to the bitterness of the dark choco-late your face will implode. A Louis M. Martini Sonoma County ($17) would work fine, so would a Plagido Cabernet ($16) from Hammonton. I tried the Plagido with a Ghirardelli Midnight Reverie 86% recently and I must admit, who needs milk? I usual-

ly prefer a zinfandel from California or an Australian shiraz over cabernet with dark chocolate. They have more fruit, less tannins and seem to bring out the fruit flavors from the choco-late. I often match Dove dark choco-late, which is a little spicy with slight cinnamon and cardamom notes, with a Ridge zinfandel. It goes incredibly well together. Ridge is known for zin and is always my go-to producer for this varietal.

There is another match that is the ultimate experience. So much so that I routinely use it in my undergradu-ate wine course at Rutgers. It should be understood that college students have not experienced food and wine matching and, for the most part, they couldn’t care less. I consider this a challenge and every semester I purchase a giant bag of Hershey dark chocolate Kisses and a few bottles of Banfi Rosa Regali ($18). This wine is a moderately sweet, sparkling rose dessert wine and once both are in the mouth, there is magic. The students go crazy and all want to duplicate this experience at home and ask where this magic elixir can be pur-chased. I think that is the thing I love about college students – the insatiable urge to learn and experience new things. This is a must match even if you are not a college student.

The wine that many do not think of matching with chocolate is Vin Santo. This wine is made from grapes that are left to raisin and then pressed. This raisiny flavor carries through to the wine and, along with the toffee flavors, is an incredible match for a chocolate biscotti or any chocolate dessert.

Of course, for many of us, when we think chocolate we think sweet. Whether it is a chocolate mousse, flourless chocolate cake, a S’more, or just a piece of milk chocolate, a port of Madeira is the classic match because it is very fruity, has higher alcohol than table wine and has soft tannins. If a nut and chocolate dessert is ordered, try a tawny port, which also has a nutty character to it. These wines have higher alcohol levels, usually 18-20 percent, and when matched with chocolate will provide a warmth that is perfect for this sea-son for lovers.

Continued from Page 19

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 21

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Page 22: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T

By JANET LEONARDIPhotography by DOUGLAS BOVITT

22 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 23

Dutch oven cooking has been around for centuries, but over the past few years these thick-walled, cast iron pots equipped with tight-fitting lids and sturdy handles have experienced a deli-ciously well-deserved resurgence.

The classic Dutch oven was a utilitarian three-legged, stubby black cauldron relegated to simmering meals outdoors over wood or coal fires. But today, the Dutch oven has not only moved indoors but also into the

culinary-focused, fashion-forward 21st century.

Modern versions now come in a dizzying array of styles and price points and range in materials from the tradi-tional cast iron to cast aluminum and boldly colored ceramic enamel. They can be oval or round, shallow or deep and some are even Teflon coated. And although the new indoor vessels no lon-ger boast tripod legs, they still feature the all-important snug lid and conve-

nient handles.The secret to Dutch oven success is

that heat is distributed evenly through-out the entire cooking process so you can bake, braise, broil, sauté, stew or roast in them. Dutch ovens will cook just about everything well, but they’re especially suited for whipping up the savory one-pot meals everyone craves as weather worsens and temperatures plummet.

ou may feel the need to have a chicken in every pot this wintry season and, if you do, make sure one of those pots is a Dutch oven.

YDutchGoing

Slow cook comfort food in versatile pots that have survived the test of time

Continued on Page 24

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Final S&T24 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

Alex Capasso, the executive chef/owner of two Collingswood restau-rants, Blackbird Dining Establishment and West Side Gravy, is no stranger to plating up delectable dishes, and stellar comfort food entrees can definitely be counted among them.

Capasso, who grew up in Trenton, is an award-winning culinarian who has been in South Jersey restaurant kitch-ens since he was 15. He now works in conjunction with another Jersey native son and his chef de cuisine, Jared Frazer, who hails from Cherry Hill.

Both the upscale Blackbird and the more laid-back West Side Gravy feature Dutch oven, one pot recipes on their re-spective menus. Frazer says, “This home-style comfort food is a perfect choice at this time of year. And my classic French culinary training really lends itself well to the braised meats you find in many Dutch oven recipes.”

If you’re a novice when it comes to using a Dutch oven, Frazer advises, “First cook to your palate; bypass the filet mignon and choose meats that are tougher. The higher a protein’s muscle content, the better it can sustain the long, low temperatures of the Dutch oven cooking process.”

For example, Frazer recommends opting for pork shoulder or pork butt over a pork loin. “The loin will cook too quickly. But the other cuts will result in flavorful dishes such as pulled pork sandwiches on the West Side Gravy menu. All you need to do is sear the meat and add some celery and carrots. Then add enough pork stock to fill about three-quarters of the Dutch oven, cover it and bake in a 250-275 degree oven for three to four hours.”

If you’re lucky you’ll find Frazer’s coffee-braised short ribs with pomme puree, autumn vegetables and natural jus on the Blackbird seasonal menu. “It’s adapted from a recipe my mother used to make in her crockpot,” Frazer says.

He points out the Dutch oven is an excellent vessel for making confit. “Con-fit is a term for cooking food in its own fat. To make the French favorite, duck confit, simply immerse duck legs in duck fat in your Dutch oven. Then cook them for six hours in a 225-degree oven.”

Frazer suggests starting most Dutch oven meals on the stovetop so they are heated through before putting them into the oven. “It’s never good to put cold meats and vegetables directly into a low-heat oven. It’s also best to use root

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Continued on Page 25

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 25

vegetables like carrots, turnips and parsnips. If you cut them the same size, they’ll take about the same amount of time to cook. And if you add a faster cooking vegetable such as a potato, make sure to cut it into larger pieces, which will slow down its cooking time.”

In addition to soups, stews, casseroles and roasts, almost any-thing you bake at home from bread, muffins and cobbler to biscuits and pizza, also can be baked successfully

in a Dutch oven. The radiant heat acts similarly to a stone hearth and the lid holds in moisture, assuring a crispy crust.

Experts agree it really doesn’t matter what you put into them, these multifunctional pots have survived the test of time and, if used correctly, will consistently deliver delicious. So take a page out of grandma’s recipe book this Valentine’s Day or any other frosty day this season and make it simple by going Dutch.

Continued from Page 24

Recipe courtesy of chef de cuisine Jared Frazer at Blackbird and West Side Gravy, both in Collingswood

INGREDIENTS: • 6 Duck legs• 3 Large potatoes, wash and cut into wedges• 2 Fennel bulbs, wash and cut fennel into wedges• 5 Shallots, wash and cut shallot into halves • 5 Cloves garlic• 6 Sprigs thyme• 3 Tbsp. salt, pepper, sugar• Duck fat or nonflavored oil to cover

 DIRECTIONS: 1. Season duck legs with salt, pepper, brown sugar. (Equal parts) Let cure for 24 hours in refrigerator, then place in Dutch oven.2. Add potatoes, fennel, shallots, garlic and thyme.3. Cover with duck fat (or a nonflavored oil).4. Cook at 225 degrees for 6 hours.5. Remove from fat.

Confit is a term for cooking food in its own fat. To make the French

favorite, duck confit, simply immerse duck

legs in duck fat in your Dutch oven. Then cook them for six hours in a

225-degree oven.

“ “

– Jared Frazer, chef de cuisine at Blackbird and West Side Gravy

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Page 26: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

26 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

Come March 17, I’ll be holding a wake for a former friend. St. Pat-rick’s Day should be a fitting moment for saying so long to Guinness, that instantly recognizable Irish dry stout. One last pint and goodbye, nevermore to occupy my glass.

I’ve got my reasons. I had my first Guinness in 1980 (I was a year shy of drinking age) from a four-pack my old-er brother scored on a lark. It wasn’t the draught style that’s so ubiquitous now, more like the muscled-up Guin-ness Foreign Export Stout that only recently become available in the U.S.: sort of prickly on the palate thanks to the carbonation and the roasted barley. (For the record, I still recommend the Foreign Export Stout.)

It was another 10 years before I revisited the brand. By then Guinness had some emerging cult clout among the beer-aware as a hard-to-find brew on tap in the U.S. When you did find it, you remembered those few bars that carried it. You gave them props for offering a stout and bothering with the nitrogen tap system needed to dispense it.

I drank a lot of it back in the 1990s and even some into the next de-cade, mostly on those occasions when it was the only thing on tap besides the bland beer combo playing the room, Budweiser and the Lights (for example, Miller Lite, Bud Light and Coors Light).

But it’s time, past time even, to dispense with Guinness. Not because Guinness is a bad beer, and certainly this time of year it’s going to be well-promoted for the obvious ethnic tie-in.

Nope, it’s because Guinness Draught anymore is a ho-hum beer.

My breaking point came over the holidays at a company party with dim offerings from the open bar–Bud Light, Amstel, Stella Artois, Blue Moon, Yuengling and Corona, the usual sus-pects in the crimes of wasted calories and no flavor. But there was Guinness Draught. And following the trope of old, that it was the best of that lot, I went with it.

A half-pint, anyway. That’s where I called off the rela-

tionship and exited the taproom for the trunk of my car, still stocked from

a fresh visit to a Canal’s. I confess what I did was play dirty, color outside the lines, show impertinence and impa-tience (how long could a party last? I felt like a smoker who couldn’t go a work shift without eight cigarette breaks). I smuggled them back inside, one by one, those things that these days make up the tap lists of good beer bars: Founder’s Breakfast Stout, Rogue’s Yel-low Snow IPA and Dead Guy Ale, and Bell’s Java and Expedition stouts (the latter, alas unavailable in this state, but

Good-bye GuinnessB E E R H E R E

CBy JEFF LINKOUS • Photo Illustration by TARA M. ASKIN

HAPPENINGS:Philly Craft Beer Festival, March 3,www.phillycraftbeerfest.com

Atlantic City Beer Festival, March 30-31www.celebrationofthesuds.com

Continued on Page 35

Page 27: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 27

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Final S&T

CinemacuisineFrom 1963’s Best Picture winner “Tom Jones” to the

yummy 2009 nominee “Julie & Julia,” Oscar has always had a constant craving for food movies.

And why not? Some of Hollywood’s most iconic mo-ments have unreeled during meals both big and small. Remember the deli scene in “When Harry Met Sally,” the lemon meringue pie that Clint Eastwood hungers for in “Million Dollar Baby,” the lobster that brings Woody Allen and Diane Keaton together in “Annie Hall”?

If you’re in the mood for some appetizing examples of culinary cinema, check out these five foodie feasts. They’re guaranteed to leave you hungry for more. 

Babette’s Feast (1987) — An Oscar winner for Best Foreign Language Film, this rich treat equates food with spiritual enrichment. Set in 19th – century France, the Dan-ish drama pivots on a French cook named Babette (Ste-phane Audran) who, after losing her husband and son to the French Revolution, falls on hard times. She flees France and winds up in Denmark, where she’s taken in by a pair of pious sisters. For years, Babette cooks plain meals of fish and vegetables. Then she wins the lottery and decides to pay back the kindness she’s been shown by the sisters — and the villagers — with a spread to end all spreads. On the menu: turtle soap, caviar, blinis, glazed walnuts, Belgian endive, quail and rum sponge cake. Bon appetit.

By AMY LONGSDORF • Photo Illustration by TARA M. ASKIN

Continued on Page 29

Continued on Page 30

28 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

Page 29: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 29

Fried Green Tomatoes (1991) — This home-cooked meal of a movie uses a recipe that calls for a blend of Flannery O’Connor and “Thelma and Louise.”  Nar-rated by the wonderfully unreliable Ninny Threadgoode (Jessica Tandy), the Alabama-set flick unreels the story of a decade-spanning relation-ship between two young women (Mary Stuart Masterson, Mary Louise Parker) that survives ev-erything from train wrecks and murder trials to small-town bigotry. Eventually, the gal pals open up the Whistle Stop Café, where the spe-cialty is — you guessed it — fried green tomatoes.

Like Water for Chocolate (1992) — Sink your teeth in a spicy treat from Mexico that serves up comedy, romance and sweet revenge. At the center of the action is Tita (Lumi Cavazos), an expert cook who’s devastated when she learns that the handsome Pedro (Marco Leonardi) has decided to marry her older sister. Suddenly, every meal Tita whips up passes on the emotions she’s feeling at the time of preparation. Tita sobs into the batter of chabella cake and leaves the wedding guests over-whelmed with sadness. When she cuts her finger and bleeds into the quail marinated in rose petal sauce, the movie turns particularly hot and lusty.

Big Night (1996) — A banquet of savory characters and mouth-watering meals, this rich-as-

butter dramedy follows two

Italian brothers (co-writ-er and

co-dirt-

Continued from Page 28

Continued on Page 30

 

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Page 30: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T30 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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ROBERT STARR FURNITUREROBERT STARR FURNITUREor Stanley Tucci, Tony Shalhoub) in 1950s New Jersey as they come to realize that their first-rate restaurant, the Paradise, is losing customers to a slicker, more-Americanized Italian eatery across the street. The solution, they decide, is to offer up a one-of-a-kind feast for the visiting pop singer Louis Prima. The centerpiece of the dinner is Timballo, a  tough-to-prepare Italian delicacy. But it’s an omelet, enjoyed by the brothers in perfect silence, that turns out to be the movie’s most memorable meal. 

Ratatouille (2007) — Leave it to Pixar to make the best animated food movie since 1955 when Lady and the Tramp slurped spaghetti to-gether to the strains of “Belle Notte.” The star of “Ratatouille” is a clever rat that longs to be a chef. He’s able to achieve his dream of culinary glory with the help of a busboy named Lin-guini. A key ingredient to the film’s success is the lovely musical score by Edgewater Park’s Michael Giacchino. His music is the perfect seasoning for a cartoon ode to the joys of friend-ship and French cuisine.

Continued from Page 29

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Page 31: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 31

A

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The restaurant’s large menu was recently revamped to include a number of signature dishes. Packing the biggest punch is “The Coastline,” a 10-ounce filet topped with jum-bo lump crabmeat and béarnaise sauce. Chef Oleg Zelenko says this flagship dish is “an old-school item” that represents the restau-rant. “The Coastline has always been about good steaks and good seafood,” he says.Customers who come with lighter fare in mind can expect to see newly added sand-wich options such as the Coastline Chicken

Continued on Page 32

By KATIE KALVAITIS

Page 32: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T32 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

N E I G H B O R H O O D R E S T A U R A N T

Sandwich, with fire-grilled chicken breast, roasted peppers, pesto mayo, smoked mozzarella cheese and spring mix on toasted flatbread, and the Prime Rib Cheesesteak.

“The new menu was based on what our customers told us they liked. Their opinions mean everything to us,” says owner

Dawn Mourtos.Young diners can expect a

welcome change, too. Kid-friend-ly items such as grilled cheese, chicken fingers and French fries are still available, but the list has expanded to include items such as barbecue ribs and penne Alfredo, in smaller portions.

Continued from Page 31

Continued from Page 34

A menu to debut this spring is based on costumers’ input, says owner Dawn Mourtos, above left, with some regular patrons.

Chef Oleg Zelenko serves up tasty sandwiches and entrees at the Coastline Bar and Grill. The Cherry Hill restaurant has been winning over new customers - and satisfying its regu-lars - for 34 years.

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Page 33: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 33

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Page 34: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T34 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

“We decided to change the kids menu after reading an article writ-ten by a young girl who said she was tired of kids being discriminated against on food menus,” Mourtos says. “Not all kids are picky eaters, and we want to give them more op-tions.”

The kitchen stays true to some of the old recipes the Coastline is known for, such as the popular fried flounder and slow-cooked prime rib. The rice pudding continues to be made using late owner Chris Mour-tos’ original recipe, which only one person in the kitchen knows.

“We want our customers who have been coming here for more than 30 years to be incredibly happy with the new menu, but we want our new customers to be satisfied, too,” says Zelenko, who joined the Coastline as head chef in August.

Known for its weekly special events in the nightclub, like the Back-in-the-Day Dance Party on Mondays and Ladies Night on Wednesdays, the restaurant now features a weekly Pasta Night. Once a week, Zelenko sets up a pasta station in the din-ing room. Customers are invited for all-you-can-eat pasta by choosing their own toppings, sauces and pasta. Think everything from shrimp and vegetables to pesto and marinara to whole wheat and rigatoni. “Our Pasta Night is nice because I get to interact with my customers, and they get to see me out of the kitchen,” Zelenko says.

The Sunday brunch, which has received accolades in South Jersey over the years, is still hosted every week. Think made-to-order omelets, waffles, crepes, a carving station, salad bar and more.

The Brace Road restaurant and nightclub has been open for 34 years. The building underwent renovations in the early ’90s and is now get-ting another face-lift this year. The restaurant and bar section has been

N E I G H B O R H O O D R E S T A U R A N T

Continued from Page 32

Continued on Page 35

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Page 35: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 35N E I G H B O R H O O D

R E S T A U R A N T

Continued from Page 34

B E E R H E R E

acquired on an out-of-state beer run).Ordinarily, I would have just accepted the

Guinness Draught. This time, I couldn’t. For one thing, it tasted different — not to

the palate, but to the mind. Drinking Guinness only reminded me of what I could have been drinking. For another, Guinness has become, to me, nothing but a transition beer, and my pal-ate changed a long, long time ago. It’s just that now my taste buds, mind and wants all have caught up to each other, are working in unison, and they all say no more drinking a beer just because it headlines a bad crop and I’m trapped in a subpar bar.

I’ve kicked beers to the curb before, most of them 20-plus years ago, unceremoniously, too — a long list of imports and nice-try-but-no-cigar craft brews, and other beers that proved to be of no import, so to speak.

For Guinness, though, I’ll go one last round on St. Paddy’s Day, not wistfully but still a sláinte, here’s to the memories, something per-haps I should have done in December.

But after that, it’s done. And with all the better beer bars around the state these days, I trust I won’t have to keep the trunk so well stocked again.

Continued from Page 26

painted and updated, and a new piano was added to host live mu-sic at the piano bar. The nightclub features new carpet, paint and lights. Perhaps the biggest change will be the addition of a ‘large’ deck, according to Mourtos, with an indoor/outdoor bar and casual

menu. The deck is expected to be open and running by the spring.

All of these changes were the plan of her late husband, Mour-tos says. “Now it’s up to me to execute what he wanted. I truly believe we have something for everyone here at the Coastline.”

Chef Oleg Zelenko and Coastline owner Dawn Mourtos spend time in the dining room with customers on a recent Friday night.

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Page 36: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T36 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

W H A T W E ’ R E D R I N K I N G

TheCold KillerAhot toddy, often con-

sidered a first choice for medicinal purposes

(read: winter cold), is served hot and made with honey, lemon, hot water, and the spirit of your choice (usually whiskey, brandy, or rum). The later, we suspect may hold the cure for the common cold but we have no scientific evidence. So keep this libation in mind during the winter days ahead. Otherwise — there’s always Zicam.

Beside the Liquor or Water in the Fruit, there is also a sort of Wine drawn from the Tree called Toddy.

“ “Classic Hot Toddy Courtesy of P.J. Whelihan’s Haddon Township

INGREDIENTS

• 1.5 oz. Captain Morgan rum• 2 oz. Apple Cider• Hot water• Lemon, for garnish• Cinnamon stick

DIRECTIONS

1. In a Mason jar, add rum, apple cider, and hot water to fill. Drop in cinnamon stick.

2. Garnish with lemon wheel.

“New Voyage Round the World” by seaman and author William Dampier

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 37

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Page 38: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

Final S&T38 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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Page 39: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 39

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Page 40: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

40 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

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TThere’s more to dining out in Lancaster than chicken pot pie and chow-chow.

Although the eighth-largest city in Pennsyl-vania is closely associated with the Pennsylvania Dutch, a community that came to this part of Penn’s Woods in the early 1700s, there’s as much city as there is country to this picturesque part of the state. And the dining scene has evolved in recent years, moving beyond Amish comfort food to embrace everything from sophisticated farm-to-table New American to satisfying gastropub grub.

Located about 65 miles west of Philly, down-town Lancaster is an artsy enclave of indie shops, cafes and galleries, a developing cultural scene that delivers plenty of action for a weekend getaway. You can even leave your car at home–train it to Philly, where the hourlong Amtrak Keystone train from 30th Street Station is a bargain at $15 each way. Once you hit town, just about everything is within walking distance.

What’s there to eat in downtown Lancaster? Plenty.

LANCASTER, PABy BETH D’ADDONO

Page 41: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 41

D E S T I N A T I O N D I N I N G

LANCASTER CENTRAL MARKET23 N. Market St. www.centralmarketlancaster.com

A kissing cousin to Reading Terminal Market in the heart of downtown, it claims to be the country’s oldest continuously operating farmers’ market, situated in a lovely 120-year-old red brick oozing local charm. Open Tuesdays, Fridays and Sat-urdays, the market is heavy on produce, meats and dairy from local farms; Pennsylvania Dutch foodstuffs prepared foods, specialty cheeses, sweets and crafts.

A personal fave: Sweethearts Celery, a stand where Vince the celery guy sells, you got it, celery, the sweetest and most crisp celery you’ve ever tasted. If you need a dose of Pennsylvania Dutch baked goods, head for Stoltzfus Homestyle Bakery for gooey cinnamon buns, or bring back a jar or two of homemade fresh horseradish from Long’s. A fresh juice bar, organic fruits and vegetables and hand-pulled pretzels are a few other highlights. If you plan ahead and the timing is right, bring a cooler to trot some of the specialty meats and cheeses back to your home kitchen. One thing’s for sure, you won’t walk away hungry.

JOHN J. JEFFRIES

300 Harrisburg Ave.(717)431-3307www.johnjjeffries.com

You can’t throw an organic ap-ple too far around here and not hit a farm, which makes the whole farm-to-table thing more than just a lot of talk. For an upscale evening, dine at John J. Jeffries in the swanky Lancast-er Arts Hotel, a mile from downtown. Chefs Sean Cavanaugh and Michael F. Carson stick to local, seasonal, sustainable and organic agriculture from small Lancaster County farms. The fare is delish and from the tasty Highbourne Farm Red Deer Tartare served with a soft-boiled quail egg to the Kookaburra Farms grass-fed steak Chimichurri and JJJ’s grass- fed pork, lamb and venison Bolognese with lo-cal mozzarella, you’ll love every bite.

CARR’S

50 W. Grant St.(717) 299-7090www.carrsrestaurant.com

Just adjacent to Central Market, head to Carr’s, where chef/owner Tim Carr delivers a taste of Lancaster County (try the Ebberly roast chick-en) in a sophisticated setting. Light fare tempts with dishes such as seared tuna with lettuce cups and Elysian Fields lamb meatballs stuffed with lo-cal feta. The great wine list and a nice selection of wines by the glass are available in the restaurant or at the adjacent Crush Wine Bar, where a tapas menu is served.

SQUARE ONE COFFEE

145 N. Duke St.(717)392-3354www.squareonecoffee.com

Get a jolt of java at Square One Coffee, where custom single-source beans are sourced directly from the grower, like Richard Kimondo, a farmer in Ke-nya, and roasted in house daily.

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Final S&T42 jerseyeatsmagazine.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012

D E S T I N A T I O ND I N I N G

STRAWBERRY HILL

128 W. Strawberry St.(717) 393-5544www.strawberryhillrestaurant.com

More inventive dining awaits at the family-owned Strawberry Hill (128 W. Strawberry St., a refreshingly modern restaurant in the historic Cabbage Hill section of downtown Lancaster. Expect a wide-ranging contemporary menu, a creative wine list peppered with bou-tique vintners and interesting dishes such as seared foie gras with apples and Nueske bacon, housemade gnocchi with porcini butter and a family recipe for homemade spaghetti, guarded by the Kerek family for generations.

RACHEL’S CAFE & CREPERIE

309 N. QUEEN ST. (717) 399-3515www.rachelscreperie.com

Feeling peckish with all this wan-dering and shopping? Duck into Ra-chel’s Creperie for breakfast, sandwich-es and airy crepes filled with yummy combos such as Nutella and whipped cream.

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Page 43: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 jerseyeatsmagazine.com 43

Page 44: Jersey Eats: February/ March 2012

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