Vogue magazine was launched by Arthur Turnure, first in the United States. It was

a weekly publication, which soon spread

to countries overseas changing the

influences of fashion.

The cage crinoline was invented after women previously wore layers of petticoats under the skirt. The layers were worn to increase the skirts fullness, but this was uncomfortably hot, so the cage was designed, with only one petticoat underneath.

Many women campaigned for the right to vote. They

were called suffragettes. To show their seriousness,

they wore plain and simple clothing but wanted to avoid their stereotype

image so continued wearing feminine blouses

which were in fashion.

1850 - 1914

Paul Poiret freed women from

restricting corsets and petticoats, introducing

the technique of draping rather than

tailoring. Poiret also claims to have

invented the brassiere.

Charles Frederick Worth is known as ‘the first couturior’ and opened the most successful couture fashion house of the time. His designs were made more famous and sought after, after being worn by Empress Eugénie.

Thomas Saint invented the first sewing machine in 1790. Isaac Singer is known for inventing the first mass produced sewing machine, which had a foot pedal and falling shuttle. He patented this design in 1851.

The crinoline style changed to be flatter at the front and sides. A fashion of draping excess overskirt fabric at the back came in. The bustle was designed to support the draped fabric.

The Arts and Crafts movement began around 1880, partly led by William Morris. This was a reaction against the industrial

revolution. Architecture became simplified and

products were mass produced, so craftsmen feared their work

would no longer be needed.

1903

1903

1892

1880

1870

1858

1856

1851

The Wall Street Crash led to the Great

Depression when 13 million people were unemployed

and families lived in primitive conditions.

This impacted greatly on the global

economy.

Gabriella ‘Coco’ Chanel was a major influence on womens fashion from the 1920s to the present. She designed the Jersey Flapper Dress and womens trouser suits, inventing ‘La Garconne’ look.

Utility clothing was introduced in 1941.

Womens’ jackets had square shoudlers and

skirts were knee level, following the trends

during the war, reflecting army uniforms.

1915-1945

During World War 2, the high demand for

army uniform and a shortage of fabric,

meant clothes rationing was introduced.

People were allowed approximately one

outfit a year, so learnt to repair their old clothes.

Nylon was invented in 1927, as a synthetic alternative to silk. Nylon stockings were made in 1940 and were worn to cover the exposed legs when women wore shorter dresses.

World War 1 brought changes to womens’ lifestyles, affecting how they dressed. They were needed to work as the men joined the army, so were no longer made to wear restricting corsets.

The 1920s was known as The Jazz Age.Womens’ dresses had shorter hemlines so the knees were seen, a flatter bust and straighter waist. This was known as ‘Flapper Fashion’.

Madeleine Vionnet was a key designer

of the 1930s, as she designed The

Goddess Dress, and popularized

the bias cut, introducing a

free-er style using chiffon and silk.

1927

1926

1926-28

1914-18

1941

1941

1931

1929

1960-1979

Mods and Rockers were conflicting subcultures.Mods rode scooters and wore

stylish tailored clothes. ‘The Who’ was a mod band. Rockers rode motorcycles and wore

leather jackets and were considered ‘grubby’.

Hippies wore androgynous clothes: bell bottom trousers, long skirts, tie-dye clothes and sandals or

went barefoot, and had long hair. They campaigned for peace and started the ‘Flower Power’ movement.

Mary Quant brought the miniskirt to fame, as a dress and skirt, colourful and childlike. She used new fabrics, such as PVC and also

designed the plastic raincoat and pinafore dress.

Twiggy was known as the first supermodel and the face of 1966 because

of her slim figure, short hair and high fashion ‘mod look’, influencing girls’ style.

The Vietnam war was a tragedy leading to many deaths. The response affected fashion as many people

protested wearing peace symbols and hippie style clothes. Military clothing also made a reappearance.

Vivienne Westwood opened the boutique ‘Sex’ in London with her partner. This influenced the punk subculture which was were known for rebelling and

listening to bands such as The Sex pistols.

The disco style was influenced by the film ‘Saturday Night Fever’ and the band ABBA. They made flared

trousers and platform shoes a trend.

Barbara Hulanicki set up BIBA as a mail order clothes boutique. This became so popluar, a store

was opened in London. BIBA’s main attraction was its fashionable but affordable clothes.

1970

1966

1960s

1960s

1964

1960s

1955-75

1972

The New Romantic Movement was a reaction against punk, beginning in London nightclubs. Influencd by bands such as Visage, Ultravox and Duran Duran, fashions included gothic make up and frilly shirts.

Madonna was a style icon of the 1980s. She began the ‘messy chic’ look wearing tights and short pants, layers of shirts, sweatshirts and crucifix jewellery. She brought fame to Jean Paul Gaultier’s cone bra.

1980 - 1999

‘Power Dressing’ became a trend when women became more important in the workplace and wanted clothes to show their equality to men. The television soap ‘Dynasty’ made shoulder pads popular.

Princess Diana married Prince Charles in 1981

and became a world leader of

fashion. She died in 1997.

19811980s

Hussein Chalayan graduated from Central

Saint Martin in 1993. He is famous for

unusual ideas, such as his graduate collection which he buried in the

ground and dug up and again, and his ‘Coffee

Table Skirt’.

The Sensation Exhibition, first in

London, showcased modern art by Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin,

Marc Quinn and Sarag Lucas. It

was criticised by many as it was so

controversial.

New technology meant major improvements in

communication through internet, email, and mobile

phones. The fashion industry today, as with

most industries, relies on modern technology to

function quickly.

Popular 1980s trends were neon colours, shell suits, roller discos, baggy sweatshirts with leggings and ankle warmers. ‘Fame’ and ‘Flashdance’ popularized some of these even more.

1997

1990s

1980s

1980s

19931980s