Christchurch Fishing & Casting Club Inc. · effective, in most habitats, than spin fishing. As...

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1 Christchurch Fishing & Casting Club Inc. (The Friendly Bunch) www.cfcc.co.nz President Secretary Treasurer Vacant Shirley Salisbury John O’Connell 03 322 8218 021 507576 Next Meeting Weds 6 th February 7:30pm At Cotswold Preschool Hall, 37 Colesbury St, Bishopdale Guest Speaker is not really a guest, but Rex will don his F&G Councilors hat and be discussing the new Fish and Game Council's changes and priorities as well as what the audit was all about. Another F&G rep is to be confirmed at this stage. Advertisments in your Newsletter The club newsletter can be used to advertise a trade or service or special skill you have to offer. The advertisement is a standard half-page, and costs $5.00 per advertisement per month. You must be a financial member to advertise in this Newsletter.

Transcript of Christchurch Fishing & Casting Club Inc. · effective, in most habitats, than spin fishing. As...

Page 1: Christchurch Fishing & Casting Club Inc. · effective, in most habitats, than spin fishing. As anyone who spin fishes will tell you that it is most effective at dawn and dusk. Here

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Christchurch

Fishing & Casting Club

Inc. (The Friendly Bunch) www.cfcc.co.nz

President Secretary Treasurer

Vacant Shirley Salisbury John O’Connell 03 322 8218 021 507576

Next Meeting

Weds 6th February

7:30pm At Cotswold Preschool Hall,

37 Colesbury St, Bishopdale

Guest Speaker is not really a guest, but Rex

will don his F&G Councilors hat and be

discussing the new Fish and Game Council's

changes and priorities as well as what the audit

was all about. Another F&G rep is to be

confirmed at this stage.

Advertisments in your Newsletter

The club newsletter can be used to advertise a trade or service or special skill you have to offer. The advertisement is a standard half-page, and costs $5.00 per advertisement per month. You must be a financial member to advertise in this Newsletter.

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Fisherman's Loft for all your Fishing Requirements

Support the sponsor of our Raffle

359 Lincoln Road, over the railway line Phone now 3383131

www.fishermansloft.co.nz

Message from the Editor

So we’re nearly into march and that means the Lake Taylor trip will be approaching so make sure John Collins has your name if interested. I’ve had a few articles and other issues come across my desk I’ll be sharing this month and next although from some pics I’ve been sent the recent rain didn’t come in time to save some fish from drying up areas of the Ashley River (Nor F&G by the sounds of it). Hopefully Members have been out catching salmon as they have been running and are there for those willing to put in the time. Again I’ll be absent Weds as I’m in the North Island representing our fine region on the hockey field but intend upon my return to swap one stick for another as it feels like its been too long. Tight lines

Gavin

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A message from the committee The Club has had three great trips since the November meeting: Black Forest, Ashburton Lakes and the Salmon Day, but there is still more to come! John Collins will lead the annual trip to Lake Taylor on March 8-10. For the adventurist that also includes Lakes Shepperd, Loch Katrine, Lake Sumner and the Upper Hurunui River. The accommodation is retro but dry and warm. The road in is an adventure to newcomers but the fishing options are well worth it. John will brief us on the trip at the March meeting. We also have our Lake Benmore trip on April 12-14. The accommodation is great and the fishing options include the hydro canals, Ahuriri River, Twizel River and Delta, Lakes Ruataniwha, Ohau, Middleton, Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki; all within 30 minutes!!! Shirley Salisbury is the coordinator and will answer any questions at the March club meeting. The committee next meeting on Tuesday 2 April, will focus on the club’s strategic plan implementation. If you want to contribute your ideas on the Club’s future development let one of the committee members know. We welcome good ideas and anyone who wants to come and discuss the options. Don’t forget about entries for the Club’s cups. There is always fun when we have entries for the Most Unusual Catch Trophy. Think about it. The Committee

Spot of the Month Lake Hood

A bit of a different spot this month and somewhere

that I would not recommend you would want to go

for peace and quiet. Located in Ashburton, Lake

Hood is a popular boating lake which can be fairly

busy however it’s large enough that we always

manage to find a spot to ourselves. If you have

grand kids or even someone new to fishing, then

Lake Hood is ideal with its healthy population of

easy to catch Perch. Great to keep the young ones

Caught at Lake McGregor 26 Nov,(Black Forest trip) always a good location pre-Xmas. Brown - 610 mm long and 310 mm girth 6 lb

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entertained and teach them basic fishing and fish handling skills. There’s also

some decent trout cruising round.

We’ve had plenty of luck using paddle tail soft baits on spin gear. The perch may

have several hits before hooking up. Any colour seems to work but having a little

red on helps. I fly fish with a woolly bugger or small snail looking fly. At times

there can be plenty of rising trout so a

few dry flies could be worth having in

your box.

With a cafe close by, playground,

toilets, lots of room to kick a ball,

throw the kids bikes in the boot or as

we do, take the kayaks. There is

plenty to do between fishing once the

kids have decided that they have had

enough of Perch slaying. May not be

back country relaxing but a fun day

out for the whole family.

CHRISTCHURCH FISHING & CASTING CLUB (INC)

COMMITTEE

President

Vacant Vice President Dave De Montalk - [email protected] 942-2339 / 0272845688 Treasurer John O’Connell- [email protected] 021-507576 Secretary Shirley Salisbury - [email protected] 322-8218 / 0211415559

Editor Gavin Atkinson - [email protected] 0223524717

Committee John O’Connell- [email protected] 021-507576

Bryce Nicholson – Rex Gibson – [email protected] 358-2595 / 0211280404

CLUB EVENTS 2019

Date Event Contact Details

8th – 10th Mar Lake Taylor Trip John Collins

12th -14th April Lake Benmore (Ahuriri Arm) Shirley Salisbury

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An Evening at the Loft “Meet the maker” of the worlds largest selling fly lines. Simon Gawsworth, Rio’s brand manager is in store Tuesday the 5th March for a talk on all things Rio. Come in store from 4 pm onwards to find out all about lines, tippets and more. Simon will be speaking from 6 pm. Don’t miss this opportunity to hear from one of the most influential people in the fly fishing industry today. There will be Rio specials and give aways on the night!! See you there The Loft Team.

Casting flies and aspersions Over my “fishing life” I have heard a lot of opinions on the plus and minus aspects of fly fishing. It is still often called “elitist”, and many people just find the skill “too bloody complicated” to master. These poor souls are sometimes the ones who, in despair, cast aspersions about elitism. For a few, IT IS elitist; or at least this few have pretensions that are elitist, rather than the sport being so. The origins of such elitism come from the social dinosaurism that has carried over from the days when the primary socialisation propaganda (brain washing), even here in Aotearoa, promoted the English class system and the “glory” of Empire. Trout fishing in the U.K. became the prerogative of the upper classes and the “wannabe” nouveau-riche. This was largely facilitated by the upper classes control of property rights; especially as they pertained to the ownership of rivers. I suspect that some anglers here fancied themselves as imitation English gentry. In the “real world” most people in New Zealand fly fish because it is way more effective, in most habitats, than spin fishing. As anyone who spin fishes will tell you that it is most effective at dawn and dusk. Here in our mid-latitude regions that can mean dawn is before 6 am, and dusk well after evening drinks time. Fly anglers also value these dawn and dusk “catching” times but most actually concentrate on, and enjoy, “office hours”. This effectiveness comes from the relative lack of water disturbance by correctly presented fly lines and the greater realism of the terminal tackle in fly fishing. There is however another factor that I believe is crucial in comparisons between the two approaches to freshwater angling. It is energy expenditure. I have helped tutor new fly fishing enthusiasts for about 25 years. A couple of points are worth noting; women are far easier to coach than men, and some men just seem to wear themselves out trying. Inside many males there is a surfcaster trying to get out. They seem determined to put as much energy into the casting as possible. Women, in contrast, catch on very quickly to the idea that it is all about dexterous coordination and timing. Many men are initially more concerned with distance than accuracy; and therein lay their downfall. Some retailers offer personal casting tuition for a fee, and the Christchurch Fishing and Casting Club is one of the clubs which provides free tuition sessions

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for beginners throughout September. My experience helping here is that the beginners would be best learning the basics form a club and then perfecting their skills with a qualified instructor through their local retailer if needed. Fly fishing means managing a fly rod and line in a special way to (a) get the fly in the right place to catch a fish, (b) avoid hooking up with the nearest tree, matagouri bush, etc., and (c) avoid hooking yourself. Learning how to master this “special way” can be done by reading books, watching videos (usually on You Tube), or being shown by an experienced caster. The problem with reading about it is always the, often verbose, technical jargon. I have read and reread some explanations and still don’t know what the hell they mean. You tube is useful, but there are a real variety of styles and some videos are very ponderous. Most people I know respond best to a hands-on learning experience. Christchurch Fishing and Casting Club’s fly casting tuition in Hagley Park, Christchurch. 1968 on the shore 2017 on the purpose built jetty

Whichever way you learn the language of fly casting has to be overcome at the same time: back, forward, overhead and side casts, loop, shooting, drag, roll, slack line, leader, tippet, weight forward, sinking and floating lines, and so on. Despite that I have found that managing wrist, elbow, and shoulder movements, and learning to stop your back cast at the 12 o’clock position are the real keys to unlocking success. A “limp wristed” approach is fatal. Years of spin fishing often mean that anglers rely too heavily on the flick of a wrist. Overcoming this is a major step in casting successfully. Another major one is to shift the effort from a surf caster’s shoulder to the elbow. Why? The deterioration of New Zealand’s lowland fisheries means that most anglers have to invest heavily in petrol to get themselves to the better fisheries. If you have parted out many dollars for a tank of petrol, and probably a four-wheel drive vehicle also, then you want to get as much quality time in, on the water, as possible on each trip. If your casting style parallels that of a surf caster then

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your exhaustion over a day is much greater than someone who has mastered “the art”. Art; as shown in the movie “A river runs through it”. Fly fishing for a day should not feel like running a marathon. However I know many fly fishers who rotate their shoulders almost 45 degrees, left and right, as they cast. They can get great distance, and be quite accurate, but I get exhausted just watching their efforts. I guess it is just my opinion but a day on the water should be a day of leisure whilst communing with the natural world. If you are a beginner, or a spin angler who is tired of having to get up at “sparrows fart”, then get some advice from experienced club members and just focus on:

• getting the wrist and elbow movements right, and

• halting the rod directly above you during the back cast. Most books and videos suggest practising on grass once you have the rudiments sorted; perhaps in your local park. The other options, on water, in Christchurch are using Victoria Lake in Hagley Park, or the lawns and/or ponds at the Groynes. Remember that as fly hooks are lethal weapons, and these places are “no fishing” areas, at least for adults, you may only have a piece of wool (a “hook less” fly), or similar, as your terminal tackle. When done properly, fly fishing gives you more flexible time options and expends less energy and be warned, it is highly addictive; especially once you start catching more fish. Mastering the casting is, of course, only the first step in a fascinating journey to become a competent “office hours” angler. Clubs are the venues where the rest of the myth and mysteries of fly fishing can be unravelled. Rex N. Gibson Tutoring beginners 2005 2012

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Club Trip – Ashburton Lakes

In early December the club had what has become a regular angling trip to the Ashburton lakes; so called because you access them via the Ashburton gorge just inland from Mt Somers township. We stayed at the lake Clearwater “village”, a retro collection of baches/cribs on the slope between lakes Clearwater and Camp. Only a few kilometres away is Lake Emma; and about 25 minutes further on is Lake Heron. While the other three drain east into the South Branch of the Ashburton, Lake Heron drains north into the Rakaia River. Access to the Upper Rangitata River is also only about half an hour away from the village. If you haven’t tried this area, it is only just over 90 minutes away from Christchurch and there are also huts and camp sites available at the Mt Somers motor camp. The local tavern does take-aways at very reasonable prices. We know: we sampled them. It takes about 15 minutes to get from Lake Clearwater to Mt Somers.

The above lakes always produce their best fishing prior to Christmas; thus the timing of our club’s trip. A few anglers dropped out as Xmas pressures grew however. Everyone’s priorities are their own but if an angler wants to catch fish, then you have to go when the fish are there! Lake Heron will continue to fish well throughout the season being a much larger body of water. Those of us who went enjoyed the comforts of a great well-equipped bach, with solar lighting, gas stove, fridge and hot water, which belongs to Canterbury Anglers Club. The village does not have mains power. There are also camping areas at both Clearwater and Camp. The weekend was windy, but everyone caught a least one good sized trout and more perch than you could ever want. The bulk of the perch were caught in the twilight after the Ashburton Power Boat Club vacated Lake Camp (the only lake where motorised craft are permitted). Thirteen perch to

one angler in just over an hour! Our trout came from Lakes Clearwater and Emma. Everyone caught trout using Rex’s “legendary” dragonfly nymph. This

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trip showed the value of rookie anglers fishing with “old hands”. As the rookies’ each said “it was like having your own guide”. The best trout and perch combo went to Bryce Nicholson – See above

Christchurch Fishing and Casting Club (The Friendly Bunch) Catering for Fly & Spin

To view the website, hover your curser over the Club monogram (right) and press Control while

Click the mouse to follow the link

Tackle Tip of the Month Tip of the Month – Give Soft Baiting a Go!

As I mentioned at the last

club meeting, I’m fairly

new to using soft plastics

and there are a number of

club members who could

help you out better than

me.

The Fishermans Loft has

a decent range of soft

baits and the staff will

help you get set up. Grab a packet or two of whatever colour catches your

attention and some jig heads in different weights. Spool your spin reel with braid

and some fluorocarbon for a leader and you’re away.

Without going into too much detail as there is a heap of videos on you tube . You

basically cast out with the appropriate weighted jig head that’s going to get your

soft plastic down to the bottom. Let it swing down in the current while adding a

“zig zag” action to the bait. Getting it about a foot off the bottom then sinking

back down again while keeping in touch with the bait.

We’ve had a lot of luck this season spotting trout, casting a paddle tail style soft

plastic above the trout and retrieving just slightly quicker than the current.

Give it a go, have a play and see what happens.

If you have any tips you’d like to share or a product that’s worked for you, a fly

pattern or anything of interest, feel free to do a quick write up and email Gavin.

Jonathan Arps.

Thanks for the Plug Jonathan and to follow up on that tip below is an article from Active angling written by Alan Bulmer. For more really good articles relating to softbaiting and other

fishing tips please follow the link to the website. https://activeanglingnz.com - Ed

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CHOOSING THE RIGHT JIG HEAD Text by: Alan Bulmer Featured images by: Tim Angeli

Arguably the most important factor in soft bodied lure fishing (soft plastics and soft baits) is selecting a jig head that best suits the conditions encountered. Much of what has been written on this subject is fairly generic and it often does not make much sense until you’ve experimented extensively and learned from experience what works best and when. Many people just don’t have the free time to do this and as a consequence soon end up giving up on using soft bodied lures because of their lack of success. Jig heads are the easiest and most common way to fish soft bodied lures. They come in a variety of sizes, weights, colours and shapes. Each shape is designed to be used a different soft bodied lure type but information on which head matches which lure type s often not readily available. In this article I’m going to look at the anatomy of a jig head focussing on head shape, sink rate and the size and wire gauge of the hooks used. The first thing to recognise is that the head is more than just a sinker to get the soft bodied lure into the strike zone. Different shaped heads sink at different rates and some heads impart a unique action to the lure when it is either dropping through the water column, lifted up through it or is simply sitting on the bottom. The head profile may on occasions also need to match the body of the prey that it is imitating so whether it is thin and deep (easily visible from side on) or broad and thin (visible from above and below) can be important. It is probably best to always try to make the lure look as

natural as possible. The best description that I’ve found on head shapes and action is in Calcutt & Simpsons’ classic reference book entitled “The Book of Lures” (ISBN number 799.10994) The key points on head shape and action identified by Calcutt & Simpson are:- ▪ A wobbling action on the up-lift can be achieved with a broad head or one that has a tapered lip in front of the tow point (much the same as the bib on a hard bodied lure). ▪ Broad heads are likely to dart on the uplift and glide or flutter on the drop. ▪ A deep, very thin head (like a coin standing on end) will rise easily and smoothly on the up-lift and is likely to flicker on the drop. ▪ How the lure sits in the water and how the water flows around it will depend on where the line is attached to the head (position of the tow-point). ▪ A tow-point over the central balance

point of the lure will drag it at right angles to the direction it is facing. Both ends

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of the lure will rise at the same time. The section of the head in front of the tow-point will, to some extent, act as a wobbling lip and a diving paravane.

▪ A tow-point at the front of the head will lift the lure up by the nose, giving it more of a nodding action when lifted and dropped.

▪ A forward tow-point will induce the lure to lift and plane upwards at speed. ▪ Attaching the line to the head with a loop knot or snap clip will allow the head

to pivot freely, which gives it more of a nodding action when the angler lifts and drops the lure.

▪ A firm knot attached to the head will give the lure a slightly more undulating flowing action, as the attached leader provides little resistance as it sinks through the water.

The sink rate of the jig head is determined largely by its shape. Of all of the shapes available spherical “ball shaped” jig heads sink the fastest. To verify this I recently ran an experiment to measure the sink rates of a variety of different shaped jig heads. This

involved dropping each jig head into a glass cylinder filled with glycerine and timing how long it took them to get to the bottom. I

repeated the drops multiple times and averaged the time taken to reach the bottom. The jig head shapes tested are shown in the image below and the sink rates in the following table.

The most interesting thing that I found was that a 4.67 gram spherical jig head descended to the bottom in the same time as other shaped jig heads that were almost twice the weight (7.00 and 7.88 grams). This clearly shows that if you want to get a soft plastic to the bottom quickly then it makes sense to use a spherical jig head. The flatter the shape becomes the slower it sinks.

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This is actually confirmed by the physical laws of particle settling. Doubling the radius of the spherical jig head will increase the sink rate four fold in still water with negligible current and by 1.4 times in turbulent water. Click on the following link if you want to read more on

this:- https://activeanglingnz.com/2015/10/15/sink-rates-of-flies-tied-with-tungsten-and-brass-beads/

In the table above you will also notice a column headed “Shape Factor”. The shape factor for a spherical jig head is 1. The closer the shape factor for the other types of jig heads is to 1 then the closer its sink time is to that of a spherical jig head. I calculated the shape factors for all of the jig heads tested to make it easy to see how they compared to each other. The results show that jig head C (Ocean Angler Light Bulb) with a shape factor of 0.88 has the second fastest sink rate. If you want to slow down the sink rate then chose a jig head with the smallest shape factor and then adjust the weight to suit the depth being fished. In shallow water with little current it is often preferable for a soft bodied lure to settle slowly through the water column. This can be achieved by switching to a jig head made from resin or a much lighter jig head. By ensuring that the lure slowly percolates down through the water column it is more likely to be spotted by fish holding at any depth. Alternatively, when fishing from the shore into shallow harbour channels that are only 2-3 metres deep it is probably best to carry a selection of jig heads ranging in weight from 3 – 10 grams, matched to soft bodies between 5 – 7.5 centimetres in length. When the tidal current is flowing strongly it is best to start by using the heavier 10 gram weight. The aim is to get the soft bodied lure to the bottom quickly in the current but not to anchor it in one spot. It has to bounce along the bottom with the current and look as natural as possible. As the tide ebbs then I will gradually reduce the jig head weight so that it still reaches the bottom and bounces along with the current albeit at a slower speed. Click on the following link for more information: –

https://activeanglingnz.com/2015/07/25/wetlining-soft-plastics/

In deep water, particularly where there is current, it may be essential for the jig head to plummet down quickly to the bottom. Selecting a spherical jig head and matching it to a slim tail is a good option. A head that is weighted forward of the tow point will tip the lure downward on the drop and sink with less resistance. If the fish are holding in mid water it may be necessary to adjust the drop speed to ensure that the lure can be intercepted. This is especially true with paddle tailed lures.

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Soft bodied lures work best from a drifting boat. Fundamental to boat fishing with soft bodied lures is to cast in the direction that the boat is drifting, ahead of the boat, and

to work the lure slowly back towards you as the boat drifts down on it. Here the trick is to make sure the sink rate of the lure is marginally faster than the drift rate of the boat so that the lure gets to the bottom well before the boat arrives. A good place to start is to cast far enough forward to have an angle of 45 degrees from the lure to the rod tip when the lure first hits the bottom.

It is possible to catch fish behind the boat by dragging the lure but casting ahead is generally more productive. One thing that jig head manufacturers could do to help anglers is actually print

or stamp the sink rates on all jig heads or jig head packaging. This would make it so much easier to select a jig head for a particular situation. While I’m on this theme it would also be helpful if they also provided the wire diameter of the hook. You’ll see why shortly. The next point to consider in selecting a jig head is the size and wire gauge (diameter) of the hook. My preference is always to select the smallest hooks with thinnest gauge wire practicable. The main reason being that it takes less force to set thinner gauge wire hooks. Less force equals better hook up rates. In the image below the wire diameter of the top jig head is roughly 1.7 times greater than the bottom jig head. This means that it will require around 3 times more force to set the top hook to the same depth. It is very hard to do that, even with braid, so hook up rates suffer.

For more information on hook penetration

click on: –

https://activeanglingnz.com/2015/10/08/hook-

penetration/

Obviously thin hooks are not as strong as heavier gauge wire hooks so there is a trade-off between hook up rates and making sure the hook does not bend during the fight, especially if you are using heavy drag settings to try and stop a fish from gaining sanctuary in foul ground. If you select jig heads that are made using quality hooks from reputable manufacturers, such as Owner, Gamakatsu, Mustad and Eagle Claw, then you are less likely to have performance issues. My current strategy is to select jig heads based on the fish that I am likely to encounter and the conditions that I am fishing in. The common wire gauges (diameters) that I tend to use are summarised in the table below:-

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When fishing in shallow estuaries with minimal foul ground, targeting fish smaller than 2.5 kilograms with lures smaller than 7.5 centimetres, there is comparatively little risk associated with using fine wire hooks. When you hook up on something big it is possible to let it run and wear it down using the rod and a relatively light drag setting. However, if you are targeting big fish in gnarly ground with lots of current then using heavy wire jig heads is a must simply because heavy drag settings are required to stop the fish from reaching cover and breaking off. I tend to also select the smallest hook size practical for the lure size that I’m fishing. For lures less than 7.5 centimetres in length the optimum hook size is probably 2/0 – 3/0. Typically, if the hook is bigger than this then it does not match the size of the soft plastic that is being threaded on and the lure will not track properly. As a rough guide:-

▪ the hook gape should not be more than 1.5 times greater than the depth of the soft plastic being threaded on.

▪ when the soft plastic is threaded on the hook gape should not sit further back than halfway along the length of the tail else it will restrict the movement of the tail (see below).

The final point that I want to make about jig heads is the collar that the soft plastic is threaded over to keep it on the hook. Many collars are too large for small lures and split the bodies which affects how well the soft bodied lure tracks when retrieved. This is a failing with many of the common brands available in the market. Bear this in mind when selecting jig heads.

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Club Trip – Salmon tuition day February should be peak salmon fishing time but the long hot summer has delayed their run up the Waimakariri River. Despite this five hardy souls braved the coldest day of the month to try their skills at the river mouth. Our resident tutor, Rex, has run these sessions most years for over a decade. Lashed by frigid southerly winds, and the fast outflow of a spring tide, casting practice began. The fishing skills required here are relatively straight forward, until you hook a salmon of course; then adrenalin erupts. Unfortunately nobody was successful, on either the north or south banks, while we were there. All of the club members present quickly mastered all that was required; which was just as well as after two hours the driving rain arrived and we decided that discretion is the better part of valour, and packed up. There are many mysteries and folk lore around salmon fishing; most of which apply to why there is not one on the end of your line. Salmon fishing is usually best in slightly cloudy water so there is always an element of “chuck and chance” to go with the skills associated with “reading the water”. Go to the club library and read Ross Millichamp’s book “Salmon Fever”, or go to “The FLY Shop’s” website and order your own. No other publication comes near it for help and guidance in the sport. The key requirements are:

• A sturdy rod designed for fish over 7 kg

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• Line strength of 10 lb (5kg) or more. Most people use 14 -18 lb breaking

strain line.

• Appropriate terminal tackle (ticers, z-spinners or other “spoons”). Ask

your local tackle shop what works best in the location that you intend to

fish in. Both the type of “spoon” and its weight are important. Be prepared

to lose one or two on snags each trip, especially up river.

There are many other things that are highly desirable including waders (plus a belt), a bum bag for spare terminal tackle etc, an inflatable life jacket if fishing the surf or river mouth, line clippers, polaroid glasses, a hat, wind-proof clothing (especially at the mouth) and sun screen. A good dose of common sense in regards to water safety is also helpful and patience never goes astray. On a previous salmon tuition day (above), also marked by foul weather, our “rookie”

caught a salmon, Rex a sea-run trout, and the “Queen of the Rakaia” Sharon Platt landed the biggest. Anyone who has ever caught a salmon will echo the words of one lady in the club who stated “It’s the most excitement you can have with your waders on”.