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How to Shop Smart—And Look Good in Everything
The Cool Girl’s Guide to Style
Fall’s Sexiest HaircutTear Out Page 232 and Take It to the Salon
JenniferGarner
The Action Babe Next Door
THE BEAUTY EXPERT
SEPTEMBER 2013
New SUPERPRETTYMakeupShades of Deep Green, Wine, and Rich Blue
Kick Your Bad Skin Habits(Your Phone = Bacteria Hotbed)
The No-Diet Diet
Eat Less, Feel Full
PROMOTION
Take a Shortcut
For complete issues and exclusive videos delivered to your tablet each month, get the app at allure.com/go/tablet.
The Allure tablet app has all the hair and makeup tips you need, including how to master
the season’s hottest new cut.
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for iPad, Nook Tablet, and Kindle Fire
In This IssueBeauty Reporter69 Look Now: Jason Wu Makeup
74 Editors’ Favorites
76 Allure’s Face: Natalie Dormer
80 3-D Lip Gloss ʎ Calvin Klein
Downtown ʎ Splashlights
82 Behind the Makeup ʎ Free Stuff
ʎ Product Review
86 The Bombshell Blowout ʎ Burnished
Gold ʎ Peach and Lily
90 Pretty, Easy ʎ Katy Perry’s New
Fragrance ʎ Sky Ferreira
96 Beauty 101. Personalize Your
Perfume. BY LEXI NOVAK
Fashion101 Fashion Bulletin. Opulent Prints
102 Fashion Cravings. Military Looks
104 Fashion Extras. Top-Handle Bags
106 Fashion Extras. High-Heeled
Booties
108 Fashion Expert. Giambattista Valli.
BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT
110 Cult Object. Fendi Shoes
112 User’s Guide to Style. The coolest
jacket this season is actually
a cape. Six fashionable women
make the trend their own.
BY ALEXANDRA OWENS
220ELEMENTS OF STYLE
What to wear to work right now
p. 210
p. 196
p. 230 p. 123
p. 236
p. 248
September2013
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210FALL IN LUST
Sexy, smoky, sultry shades that look hot as
the weather cools
September 2013
123 Fashion Advice. Stylist Secrets:
Shopping Like a Pro. Zeroing
in on the perfect blazer or a one-
in-a-million vintage find isn’t
just a talent—it’s a career.
Hollywood’s top stylists reveal
their best shopping strategies.
BY BROOKE LE POER TRENCH
Insiders’ Guide130 Advice on styling your bathroom,
wearing self-tanner after
summer ends, and more.
142 The Hair Pro. Snap Happy.
BY CHRIS MCMILLAN
144 Essay. The First Makeover. The
magical transformations that have
been honed to a fine art began
with one woman’s ingenious,
pleading letter to a magazine. The
origin of the before-and-after.
BY VIRGINIA POSTREL
165 Know-It-Alls. Star Hair Tips.
Bobby pins fall to the floor,
ponytails droop, and roots
deflate —but they don’t have to.
We asked top hair pros to
share their tricks for mastering
your favorite styles without
a hitch. BY CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL
175 Nail Report. Get Polished.
Glossy black manicures,
matching lacquer-and-lipstick
sets, the season’s sexiest
shades—we tip off fall’s top nail
news. BY MEIRAV DEVASH
Health150 Skin. Ray of Light. Lasers are
more effective than ever—for
nearly every skin issue under the
sun. BY JOAN KRON
162 Body News. Hair Strengtheners
ʎ Cure for Grays ʎ Body Goals.
BY KRISTIN SAINANI
186 Health. Great Whites. The best
new ways to brighten your teeth.
BY RAMONA EMERSON
186SMILE PRETTY
Easy, effective ways to get gleaming white teeth F
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On Allure.comDiscover the prettiest new nail-polish shades,
the hottest (and most out-there) nail-art trends,
and ingenious application tricks from pro
manicurists every day (not just #manimonday)
on allure.com. Visit allure.com/go/nails.
September 2013
175
236
MOUTH OFFGlittery glosses give lips an iridescent effect.80
SKIN BLUNDERSHow modern addictions are secretly sabotaging your complexion
NAIL REPORTComing to your hands this fall: Dramatic
shades, shapes, and nail-art trends.
190 Phenomenon. Beyond the Pale.
Skin bleaching in Jamaica
provokes sharp reactions from
those who call it dangerous —and
those who defend it as self-
expression. BY KATHERINE ZOEPF
196 Diet. No More Hunger Games. This
isn’t a diet story about cutting
back or learning to go without: New
science can teach us how to feel
satisfied with less. BY PATRICK ROGERS
202 Directory. Hair Color
Features210 Autumn Noir. Our guide to the
makeup shades that are made for
the cooler, sexier, and more
adventurous side of September.
BY SOPHIA PANYCH
220 How to Be Stylish. Only fashion
amateurs save their best getups
for going out. The newest clothes
for fall are perfect for the office—
and chic enough to put Saturday
night to shame. BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL
230 Chop Chop. Don’t call it a cute pixie.
The hottest/coolest haircut of
the season may be short, but it’s not
exactly sweet. BY MEIRAV DEVASH
236 Surprise Skin Sins. Are juice fasts
and Instagram binges bad for you?
Yes—but not necessarily in the way
you might think. BY JOLENE EDGAR
240 Hot Pursuits. Day looks for your
darkest hour: Plush wraps,
power-hungry suits, slick little
shoes, and a good cover.
248 A Life in Full. Jennifer Garner is
a good girl who’s played badasses.
Now, she transcends her action
past—and avoids becoming just the
“wife of.” BY JUDITH NEWMAN
Regulars40 Contributors
46 Mail
54 Beauty by Numbers
62 Cover Look
64 Editor’s Letter
209 Beauty and the Beat. Mad, Mad
World. BY GRACE CLARKE
256 Private Eye. What do you do when
you can’t sleep? BY JEFFREY SLONIM
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allure.com
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter the Prevage giveaway and for full rules, go to allure.com/go/free-stuff. Starts at 12:01 A.M. EDT on August 13, 2013, and ends at 11:59 P.M. EDT on September 16, 2013. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States/D.C. 18 or older, except employees of Sponsor, their immediate families, and those living in the same household. Odds of winning depend on the number of entries received. Void outside the 50 United States/D.C. and where prohibited. A.R.V. of prize: $552. Sponsor: Condé Nast. Standard data rates apply. For complete mobile terms and conditions, visit allure.com/go/mobile.
New Fall Makeup
Turquoise liner, garnet
shadow, lilac lipstick:
We reveal these top colors
and more (page 210).
For additional options, visit
allure.com/makeup-looks.
WHAT’S TRENDING
NOW#Wevegotyoucovered.
Head to allure.com for the
hot topics you’re searching
for and buzzing about: anti-
aging hairstyles, heat-
protectant sprays, backstage
beauty trends, and more.
#NYFW
# looknow
#CCcreams
# lookyounger
#howtobesexy
Backstage at the Fashion ShowsBrowse, dabble, or fully immerse yourself in the latest
beauty trends from the spring 2014 fashion shows on allure.com.
Check out our Designer Faces slideshows for new hair and
makeup looks (allure.com/go/designer-faces), get front-row
scoop from our Daily Beauty Reporter blog (allure.com/
go/reporter), and see our behind-the-scenes snaps on Instagram
(instagram/allure_magazine).
Download the free scan-tag app for your
phone at gettag.mobi.
These Prevage skin-care products
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$552 Worth of Prevage!
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EDITOR IN CHIEF
LINDA WELLSCREATIVE DIRECTOR
PAUL CAVACO
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BEAUTY PRODUCTFINDER
Hallelujah, September! Bring on the crunching leaves. The skinny black pants. The
autumnal equinox. Come fall, it’s out with tinted moisturizer, in with
foundation. Which leads us to the Allure Beauty Product Finder. We’ve tested and
reviewed over 100 foundations—28 are oil-free, 19 provide anti-aging
benefits, and 54 have SPF. Log on to allure.com/go/product-finder, answer a few
quick questions, and we’ll recommend the perfect foundation for you. Then
click “buy” and it will be delivered to your door. Amen to that.
We’ve Got You Covered
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Mario TestinoIn “Autumn Noir,” Candice Swanepoel and Edita
Vilkeviciute, Testino’s glamorous models, wore
the season’s best makeup—in a dangerously sexy scenario
that involved them getting waxed and tattooed.
“I wanted it to look a bit clinical,” the photographer says
of the shoot, which took place on a stark white
set. “Women go through a lot of pain to be beautiful,
so I tried to portray that.” His favorite images?
“I like the ones with armpit waxing and ear piercing,” he
says. “They are such funny traditions.”
Judith NewmanNewman came away from meeting Jennifer Garner for
“A Life in Full” charmed—and worried, “thinking I’ve
got to find someone insane to write about, because she’s
just too normal,” she says, recalling the Britney Spears
profile she wrote for Allure in 2007. “Why couldn’t
Jennifer be like Britney and not show up? Now that was
a story!” Still, Newman appreciated Garner’s wholesome
goodness. “Vanity isn’t in her language. In some ways,
she’s still the high-school girl wearing glasses
and playing the clarinet. She’s the world’s cutest nerd.”
Alexi LubomirskiJennifer Garner is known for being a natural beauty,
so Lubomirski aimed for a location to match for
“A Life in Full.” “We wanted to shoot her outdoors to
feel the subtle colors of the trees in the background,”
he says. The photographer was equally pleased
with his subject. “When Jennifer steps in front of the
camera, she is stunning—her lips, her dimples,
the twinkle in her eyes. She shines from within, so
you don’t need any props to help the shoot
along. As soon as she smiles, she just lights up.”
Virginia PostrelPostrel, author of “The First Makeover,” became interested
in the topic while researching her upcoming book, The
Power of Glamour (Simon & Schuster). She discovered
that physical transformation can be more complicated
than it seems. “Sometimes the results conflict with the
person you see yourself as, so you don’t feel like you’re
looking at yourself in the mirror anymore,” she says.
“A Twilight Zone episode, ‘Number 12 Looks Just
Like You,’ turns a makeover into a horror story —you can
go from being unique to a standard model.”
Contributors
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Katherine ZoepfAs Zoepf spent her days in the street markets, bars, and
back alleys of Kingston reporting on illegal skin
bleaching products in Jamaica for “Beyond the Pale,” one
thing struck the writer again and again. “Even in the
poorest neighborhood, it’s common to see women emerge
from their homes perfectly turned out—everything crisply
ironed, makeup flawless,” says Zoepf, who is working on a
book about young Arab women. And the power of beauty
clearly transcends geographical borders: “It’s something
I’ve admired in developing countries.”
Joan KronKron delved into the latest laser technologies in “Ray of
Light”—and has experienced the results of many
of them herself. “I’ve had brown spots removed with an
alexandrite laser a few times,” says the Allure
contributing editor at large. “We call them freckles when
we’re young, but when they start getting darker, it’s
not so cute.” She also admires the progress that has been
made with fractional lasers since she started covering
cosmetic surgery in the early ’90s. “For dermatology,
splitting a laser was like splitting the atom.”
Patrick Rogers As Rogers learned while researching “No More Hunger
Games,” people are “surprisingly clueless” about how
much they’re eating—and he dug up the science to prove
it. “In one study, subjects were fed through soup bowls
that were automatically refilled by hidden pipes,” he says.
“The vast majority didn’t realize it, except for one—who
dropped his napkin and saw the tubes under the table.”
Reporting like this can inspire changes in behavior,
Rogers found: “I remind myself I don’t need to eat the
whole plate. Your eyes can play major tricks on you.”
Tom MunroPhotographers find ideas in all art forms, and in the
case of “Chop Chop,” Munro was influenced by Jean-Luc
Godard’s movies featuring his wife, actress Anna
Karina. For this story, a male model played director to
Jessica Stam’s French star in front of the camera. Stam
was also a muse behind the scenes to hairstylist Garren,
who gave her a new cropped hairstyle especially for the
shoot. The photographer was impressed by Garren and
his creativity. “He’s brilliant and always makes the shoot
so effortless,” says Munro. “He’s the king of hair.”
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Nicolas MooreMoore envisioned a particular type of femme fatale
for “Hot Pursuits.” “We wanted to go in the direction
of a dangerous assassin, rather than a man-eater,”
he says. “It’s about strong women, like Angelina Jolie,
Melanie Griffith in Body Double, and Grace Jones.
I think the empowerment is appealing. And
the uncertainty—you don’t know who she is or what
she’s doing next.” As the photographer discovered,
model Julia Frauche assumed that role easily. “She
didn’t say much. Sometimes less is more.”
Jolene EdgarFor “Surprise Skin Sins,” Edgar spoke to top
dermatologists about the latest bad habits and learned
that even the professionals aren’t perfect. “Most of
the doctors I interviewed confessed to having a bad habit
or two of their own,” she says. “One admitted to not
always washing her face before bed—she even sleeps on
a navy pillowcase to hide mascara marks. We’re
not the only ones screwing up, and there’s something
reassuring about that. But doctors manage their
lapses with antioxidants, retinoids, and in-office peels.”
Sebastian KimKim, who photographed “How to Be Stylish,” recently
received his own fashion lesson. “I’d been wearing
the same thing, jeans and a white T-shirt, since college,”
he says. “But I decided it was time to grow up and
try something new.” He’s since added some upgrades to
his laid-back wardrobe, including Jil Sander jackets
and J.Crew Ludlow suits—tailored and powerful, like the
clothing in this story. “I think the secret to being
stylish is expressing one’s individuality. Or having a
stylish wife who knows how to pick things out for you.”
Ramona EmersonEmerson has one of the bright smiles she wrote about
for “Great Whites,” but she once bordered on overkill.
“I used Crest Whitestrips in high school and liked how
white they made my teeth,” the Allure associate editor
says. “But some people told me they worked too well—it
was like that Friends episode when Ross bleaches his
teeth and they glow in the dark.” Ten years later, she still
has a perfect—though not iridescent—set. “A dentist
I interviewed said that some people’s teeth whiten better
than others’, so I guess I’m one of the lucky ones.”
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Prior to reading about Amy Adams,
I only knew of her as the redheaded
movie star who did a remarkable
job playing Giselle in Disney’s 2007
movie Enchanted. I wasn’t surprised
when Adams was given the title of
“Shape Shifter” [July]. Though she
has awards and success, I find it
weird that she’s not in the limelight
more often, not that I would wish for
such a thing. It seems that her best
advantage in her acting comes from
being under the radar. She doesn’t
need media in her face to be popu-
lar; I’m sure many fans appreciate
her work quietly.
Samantha Chery
Ocoee, FL
Pony UpHaving long hair, I can appreciate
effortless, stylish ways to wear it up,
which is why I loved the “Show Ponies”
article [July]. I can finally switch out
my boring ponytail for all these dif-
ferent looks. I can’t wait to try them
out! I never realized ponytails could
be so versatile. Thanks, Allure!
Kimberly Barr
via email
Feminine MystiqueI am a compulsive record keeper.
When I see or read something that I
find interesting, thought-provoking,
or poignant, I circle it, highlight it, or
type it up. When I flipped to Colum
McCann’s essay [“The Invisible
Woman,” July] about a male author
who writes primarily female charac-
ters, I was completely immersed in
his writing. I had put my computer to
sleep in order to focus only on read-
ing the magazine, but I kept turning
it back on to copy down his words
because they were so powerful, and
I had to keep a record of them so I
could reread them whenever I want-
ed to. The way he used language to
describe the contrast between men
and women’s emotional intelligence
and capability especially caught my
eye. Incredible essay.
Lara Fu
Potomac, MD
I enjoyed the essay “The Invisible
Woman,” but I smirked while I read
it. Here’s why. “Women are far more
complicated than men, and therefore
more attractive. Being complicated
is a mysterious thing. And mystery is
always alluring.... Simply put, [women
are] more engaging.... I would ven-
ture to say that women actually find
it thrilling to have a man enter their
mind.” Perhaps Colum McCann hit the
nail on the head—almost. It’s fair to
say that most men find our complexity
enticingly baffling. What women love
most about being women is the sense
of power that our complexity brings
us. It’s an untouchable trait that is ours
to keep. Men will never really be able
Chasing AmyThe July 2013 issue featuring Amy Adams on the cover afected me emotionally. In all the twenty-something years of my life, no women’s magazine has ever moved me—until today, when the issue arrived. To see Adams looking so natural, with a few crow’s-feet under her eyes, made me feel relieved of the pressures we go through as women. I assure you I am speaking for women everywhere who saw this. A little dolled up is OK, but please continue to show women looking real.
Lisa Lee
Indianapolis
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to figure us out. Quite frankly, that’s
empowering. Thanks for the read.
Taylor Palmer
Istanbul
I won’t lie. Most of the time, when I
pick up Allure, I am looking for beau-
ty tips—which products and styles are
trending. However, Colum McCann’s
essay really caught my attention.
His imagery is vivid; his desire to be
someone else, relatable. But mostly,
for a moment, I believed he was every-
thing he was saying he was. Often I
imagine I’m someone else, an offshoot
of myself, but never am I able to com-
pletely re-create myself as he does.
Instead I hide under makeup and
accessories. From each new persona I
learn more about myself. I understand
his ability to write from a woman’s
perspective more easily than a man’s—
he can’t lose himself as easily.
Eliza Rocket
New York City
Breast IntentionsAllure has been a staple in my home
for many years, keeping me informed
about skin care, hair care, fashion,
and ever-changing current trends. The
July issue was no exception. I particu-
larly enjoyed your article about breasts
[“Breast Friends”], which was enter-
taining, informative, helpful, and just
plain fun. Noticeably absent, however,
was any inclusion of women with post-
surgical breasts, particularly related
to cancer surgery. No woman should
feel disenfranchised from a discussion
about breasts; they’re all beautiful!
Tamson Chambers
Yountville, CA
I just read Allure’s feature “Breast
Friends.” How to dress them, how
to give them facials, but only a small
mention about self-exams. My moth-
er battled breast cancer twice in her
life and lost both breasts to cancer.
She died in 1990 at the age of only
43. If she were alive today I really
don’t think she would care to read
about breast fashions and facials. She
would care about early detection, and
she would expect a little more than
“get checked if you notice....” Allure
is not a medical journal but has often
run stories on women’s-health issues.
Many products and organizations
that focus on breast-cancer research
are often mentioned in this magazine.
Breast cancer is a scary subject, and
many women may not have access to
health care. Why not list at least one
website with some information about
breast cancer in this story?
Janice Dubuisson
via email
It’s a WrapThanks so much for “The Art of an
Urban Turban” [“27 Ways to Look
Hot and Feel Cool,” July]! I’ve been
trying to get the turban right for
years, but I could never figure out
how to show off my hair and rock a
head scarf at the same time. Who’d
have thought salt spray would be the
answer? I love that you’re embracing
boho this summer!
Sasha Kay
New York City
Self SacrificeI’m a longtime reader, but this month
especially, you made me proud to call
Allure my favorite magazine! I love
learning about beauty (and so much
more), especially the way you write
about it. However, in today’s world,
it’s easy to become preoccupied with
our looks. That’s why I particularly
loved this month’s Beauty and the
Beat, “Give It Up” [July], about women
who gave up mirrors, grooming, and
shopping. I may not be planning to
stop my beauty routine cold turkey,
but I think I’ll go barefaced a little
more often. Thank you for showing
(once again) that beauty is so much
more than what’s on the outside—it’s
also loving yourself and having the
confidence to show it.
Robin Davis
Houston
Allure RegretsIn Beauty by Numbers [July], we
incorrectly identified Catherine,
Duchess of Cambridge, as Princess
Catherine. Allure regrets the error.
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Goldie Hawn in The First Wives
Club (1996)
Beauty by Numbers
18 Diseases of the skin, hair,
nails, and tongue said to be discovered by Imhotep,
the earliest identified physician, in the Third
Dynasty in ancient Egypt.
1500 B.C.: Period of time when
doctors in Egypt experimented with
an early form of dermabrasion to
fade scars: sandpaper.
460 B.C.: Approximate birth year
of Greek physician Hippocrates, the
father of medicine. He recommended
a well-balanced diet, adequate sleep,
and cleanliness to treat acne.
150–160 A.D.: Decade when Greek
physician Galen developed cold
cream for medicinal use. The oil-
and-wax formulation loosened dirt
and dry skin cells from the face.
11th Century when it was
believed that a touch from royalty
could heal the skin disease known as
scrofula, a tuberculous infection of
the skin on the neck. The disease was
commonly called “the King’s evil.”
1932 Year the American Board of
Dermatology and Syphilology was founded.
23: Years later the board
dropped “syphilology” from the
name after penicillin became a
widespread treatment for syphilis—
one of the original reasons for the
study of skin diseases.
2Times the Hungarian
cosmetologist Erno Laszlo
failed the American medical
examinations due to his
poor English skills. He earned his
medical degree in Europe, he told
Life magazine in 1967.
677: Address on Fifth Avenue in
New York City where Laszlo
opened his Institute for Cosmetology
in 1939. His clients included
Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy,
and Greta Garbo.
1966Year the dermatologist T.J. Baker and his colleague H. L. Gordon published a study on the ability of their phenol chemical peel to smooth deep wrinkles.
3: Approximate number of decades
the formulation, known as the Baker-
Gordon peel, remained popular
among dermatologists.
1968 Year the Estée
Lauder company launched Clinique,
developed with the help of
doctor Norman Orentreich, making
it the first dermatologist-created
skin-care line.
2Number of Orentreich’s
three children who
became dermatologists—
and who continue to
consult for Clinique.
Dermatologists“Beauty is only skin deep”—unless you’re a dermatologist. Doctors
have been looking after and perfecting our largest, most visible
organ for centuries. We extract the highlights. —SOPHIA PANYCH
Number of scrofula victims supposedly touched by King Henry IV of France in one sitting. 1,500
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1971 Year Johnson & Johnson
introduced Retin-A, which was developed by
dermatologist Albert Kligman and his team
four years earlier. Kligman also coined the
term “photoaging.” 13: Years it took the FDA to
approve Botox (originally approved
to correct eye spasms and crossed
eyes) as a treatment for moderate to
severe frown lines. Before 2002,
cosmetic dermatologists used the
treatment off-label for that purpose.
6,100,000
Number of Botox treatments
performed in 2012.
$400,000: Estimated amount
received in 1986 by Christiaan
Barnard, the doctor who conducted
the first heart transplant, for
endorsing the expensive anti-aging
cream Glycel.
1Years later Glycel was taken
off the U.S. market. Criticism
of the product’s excessive and
unestablished claims
tarnished Barnard’s reputation.
1990s: Decade of the “Paris lip” fad,
when dermatologists and plastic
surgeons injected the top lip with
collagen, a trend sparked by
models—and Barbara Hershey’s
character in Beaches.
2,641 Miles dermatologist
Arnold Klein traveled (from Los
Angeles to New York City) to inject
Goldie Hawn’s lips with saline for the
1996 movie The First Wives Club.
2011: Year Dolly Parton said at the
Hollywood Bowl, “It takes a lot of
money to look this cheap, and I owe
it all to Dr. Arnie Klein.”
163rd Episode of Seinfeld in which Jerry, on a date with a dermatologist, yells, “You call yourself lifesaver; I call you Pimple Popper, M.D.”
3.2: Dermatologists per 100,000
persons in the U.S., according
to data published in the Archives of
Dermatology in 2010.
18.9: Dermatologists per 100,000
persons in central and
lower Manhattan, according to
the same report.
7: Product lines started by
dermatologists that are currently
sold at sephora.com.
Beauty by Numbers
Jim Broadbent and Katherine Helmond in Brazil (1985)
Portion of Guthy-Renker’s $1.5 billion revenue that comes from Proactiv, the acne system developed by dermatologists Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields.½
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In the mountains of
southern California, King
Gillette Ranch was once a
party destination for
Clark Gable and Greta
Garbo. Now Garner, who shot
this Allure cover (her third)
there with photographer Alexi
Lubomirski, can be added to its
A-list revelers.
Morning Glory: Garner, in Rag &
Bone jeans, Prada loafers, and a
white button-down shirt, chatted
with Allure’s creative director,
Paul Cavaco, about her facial the
day before. The two laughed,
deciding that getting a facial the
day before a cover shoot isn’t the
best idea. (Fortunately, her skin
wasn’t completely blotchy.)
Family Ties: Garner shared family
photos with Allure West Coast
editor Kelly Atterton, also a
mother of three. They discussed
how the third pregnancy takes a
toll on the body, but Garner
added, “I just tried a new Pilates
teacher, and she kicked my butt!”
Lunch Break: Lubomirski
snapped the last image, then the
team broke for lunch. Garner
sampled a kale-beet-and-goat-
cheese salad and had a few bites
of salmon.
Nailed It: Before leaving to pick
up her daughter, Garner thanked
everyone, especially manicurist
Ashlie Johnson, who gave her,
she said, “the best manicure I’ve
ever had.” —LEXI NOVAK
Jennifer Garner
Garner’s look can be re-created with the following: Healthy
Lengths Mascara in Carbon Black, Crease Proof Eye
Shadow in Lasting Taupe, Healthy Skin Blends Natural
Radiance Bronzer in Sunkissed, and MoistureSmooth Color
Stick in Plum Perfect by Neutrogena. Silk-lace-and-
feather dress by Louis Vuitton. Photographed by Alexi
Lubomirski. Hair: Peter Gray. Makeup: Tyron Machhausen.
Manicure: Ashlie Johnson. Prop stylist: Thomas Thurnauer.
Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Cover Look
Makeup artist Tyron Machhausen touches up Garner’s lip color between takes.
Hair StoryHairstylist Peter Gray
prepped Garner’s
“amazingly thick hair”
with a smoothing heat-
protectant spray, then
combed through a
volumizing mousse. After
blow-drying it, Gray
wound sections of hair
around a one-and-a-half-
inch curling iron and
smoothed on a shine
serum. He softened the
curls with a wide-
tooth comb and pinned
a few pieces back.
For an exclusive video from
Garner’s shoot, download Allure
to your tablet.
Beyond the CoverGarner will appear in Dallas Buyers
Club this winter with
Matthew McConaughey and Jared
Leto. The actress is also a
spokeswoman for Neutrogena,
promoting its sun-safety initiatives,
and an ambassador for Save
the Children’s U.S. programs.
The actress’s Prada loafers
More Jennifer
To read what
Garner has to say about
Ben Affleck, go to
allure.com/go/Jennifer.
Garner and Allure creative director Paul Cavaco
Garner said that posing for this photograph for Allure’s September 2002 issue made her nervous, but now the image is one of her all-time favorites.
Photographer Alexi Lubomirski shoots the cover.
CHEEKS
Healthy Skin Blends Natural Radiance
Bronzer in Sunkissed by Neutrogena
LIPS
MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Plum Perfect by
Neutrogena
EYES
Healthy Lengths Mascara in Carbon Black and Crease Proof Eye Shadow in Lasting
Taupe by Neutrogena
Makeup Lesson“Shooting in this beautiful landscape, I wanted to show her as earthy and fresh as possible,” said makeup artist Tyron Machhausen.
1He blended a taupe cream eye shadow into the creases
and along the lower lashes, filled the upper lash lines with a dark brown pencil, and swiped on black mascara.
2The makeup artist swirled burnt sienna blush on
the apples of Garner’s cheeks.
3He lined her lips with a mauve pencil, smudging
the edges with a Q-tip, then applied a sheer mauve lipstick all over.
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Office Romanceround the time I started looking for a real job, a book called Dress
for Success was hugely popular. It was written as a guide, but I
took it as a warning. For men, success was easy: dark suit, white
shirt, yellow tie, shined shoes—and the fact that the author could
stretch this advice into a full-length book was almost Pulitzer-
worthy. For women, the formula required hiding your femininity
as if you were a cross-dresser in a Shakespeare play. I vaguely
remember an illustration in the book of a woman in a bob wear-
ing a shoulder-padded flight-attendant suit, white shirt, red bolo
tie, low-heeled pumps, and suntan-colored panty hose. Long before Sheryl
Sandberg and Lean In, this fashion advice alone was a powerful disincentive for
women entering the workforce.
Plenty of unfortunate bankers and lawyers felt obliged to follow this grim pre-
scription, but as they achieved a modicum of success, they grew confident enough
to abandon it and show a curve or two.
Still, everyone has a work uniform, albeit in less rigid, less mannish forms.
When I got the job at Allure, I believed I needed clothes that suited my position.
So I took my spanking fresh paycheck and bought a suit from Armani and one
from Chanel, which felt like a rite of passage into a grown-up world. I loved those
suits, and I wore them as if they had magical powers. What I lacked in experience
and confidence, I made up for in attire. Nevertheless, I might as well have been
wearing a costume from La Scala.
I’ve worn a real work uniform, and it wasn’t pretty. One summer in Martha’s
Vineyard, I was a maid at a rich guy’s house. He allowed me to vacuum and mow the
lawn in cutoffs and a T-shirt, but once the weekend guests arrived, I had to put on
a stiff white dress three sizes too big. That uniform changed everything. I immedi-
ately felt like a minion, and the fact that I had to pronounce the words “Dinner is
served” to the cocktail guests nearly undid me. I had to bite my cheek to keep from
giggling. Even though the job was temporary and didn’t in any way define me, that
uniform might as well have been a straitjacket.
Fashion this season is offering up uniforms, but they’re nothing like my
white shift or dress-for-success armor. There’s an ivory jacket and pleated skirt
from Calvin Klein and a femme-fatale suit with deep cuffs and dangerous curves
from Prada. There’s also a sneaky little pantsuit by Narciso Rodriguez that looks
nothing like Carrie Mathison’s in Homeland. They’re quirky and appealing and
almost defy the term “uniform.”
When they’re not prescribed or required, when they’re more open to interpre-
tation, uniforms solve the problem of how to get out the door in the morning. We
all want to reach into our closet, blurry eyed, and pluck out something fabulous
and effortless. Uniforms are now on the menu again. And dinner is served.
Linda Wells, Editor in Chief
Letter From the Editor|September ’13
With Connie Britton at the Fragrance Foundation Awards L
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BeautyReporter
ʎ�Lip Gloss Goes 3-Dʎ The Next BB Cream? ʎ Extreme Highlights
Usually, it’s the theatrical, over-the-top runway beauty looks that get all the attention.
But as designer Jason Wu told us before his fall show, “Some people do ugly really
well. I want to do pretty.” And it showed in every aspect of his collection—including
the hair (intricate as origami) and makeup (edgy but sophisticated). —SOPHIA PANYCH
Jason Wu
NailsWith such a vivid hue on the eyes,
Wu wanted to keep the nail color
simple. Manicurists filed the nails into a pristine
squoval shape and painted them a
glossy, creamy nude (we like Lancôme
Vernis in Love in Beige Dentelle,
shown).
More Jason Wu on
allure.comSee details from
Wu’s fall show at allure.com/go/
jason-wu.
HairHairstylist Odile
Gilbert created an Art Deco hairstyle with
the most utilitarian of accessories:
two silver Goody clips. Multiply that by
43 models, and there weren’t many left in
New York City. (Gilbert’s assistant
scoured Manhattan drugstores to find
86 of them.)
EyesWu showed makeup artist Diane Kendal
a fabric used in the collection and asked her to make an eye shadow to match.
She blended indigo and violet pigments for a shade with a metallic finish.
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Beauty Reporter
A speedy brow tint, a cool glitter topcoat, a rose-scented spot lightener, and a perfect eye-shadow palette.
Orly Matte FX Lacquer.Take a matte topcoat, add small
flecks of multicolored glitter, and what do you get? An easy way to make basic polish a lot
more interesting.
“It looks edgy layered over black or navy polish.”
—Patricia Alfonso Tortolani, Allure beauty director
L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Eyeliners in Violet and Cobalt.
Technically, they’re eyeliners. But we like them as rich, bold shadows: Draw a thick line
along the upper lashes, smudge it toward the crease, and admire your ingenuity.
Giorgio Armani Rouge Ecstasy in Scarlatto.It feels like butter, keeps lips superhydrated, and delivers a wallop of intense, siren-y red that requires minimal touch-ups.
Dior 5-Couleurs Eyeshadow in Bonne Étoile.These five festive eye-shadow shades are infused with a generous dose of shimmer; we’ll wear every last one down to the pan.
allure.com: Get more daily favorites at allure.com/go/editors-favorites.
Lancôme DreamTone Corrector.It contains lipo hydroxy acid to tackle
hyperpigmentation, but this lotion (with formulas for fair, medium,
and dark skin tones) makes our skin smell so delicately rosy, the spot-correcting part is almost a bonus.
Editors’ Favorites
Benefit Gimme Brow in Medium/Deep.
The tiny wand deposits a fiber-gel formula on
individual hairs so brows look fuller and thicker, but
totally natural (also available in Light/Medium).
Toni & Guy Shine Gloss Serum.This light serum controls frizz, adds shine, and smells so refreshing (like citrusy ginger ale) that we want to invent more reasons to use it.
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Beauty Reporter
Silk gown by Jason Wu. Cuff by Joan Hornig. Makeup colors: Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes in Ample Amber, Chubby Stick Intense Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Mightiest Maraschino, and A Different Nail Enamel in Red Red Red by Clinique. Hair: Teddy Charles. Makeup: Makky P. Manicure: Sheril Bailey. Prop stylist: Jason Curtis. Photographed by Jason McDonald. Fashion editor: Jarrod Lacks. Details, see Shopping Guide.
English actress Dormer has a
gift for seduction. As Anne
Boleyn on The Tudors, she was
the medieval minx who
transformed Europe. And on the
addictive Game of Thrones, the
31-year-old is a shrewd player
cloaked in sylphlike innocence.
This month she appears in Rush,
about European Formula 1
racing in its 1970s heyday.
Do you like to drive? “I love
to drive. My present to
myself from The Tudors was a
red Mazda MX5 hard-top
convertible. I loved that car,
and also what she represented—
my first success.”
Automatic or standard?
“Come on, you’re talking to a
European. None of this
automatic bollocks. You’ve got
to feel the car, feel the gears.”
How do you explain the
Game of Thrones mania?
“There’s the violence and the
bloodletting and the honor.
And then there’s the romance
and the sex and the naked
bodies. There are the
costumes, and the coming-of-
age stories for younger
viewers. There are gay heroes
and straight heroes. There’s
feminism. And there’s dragons
and supernatural shit going
on. There’s magic and CGI
for the geeks. There is literally
something for everyone.”
You’ve done your fair share of nudity. Is it ever a challenge? “It’s always a bit
traumatic. Being comfortable
with your body is not the same
thing as feeling completely at
ease doing a sex scene. I’m
comfortable with my body, but
to do nudity [as part of your
job] is sometimes not as easy
as you’d like it to be.”
—DAVID DENICOLO
Allure’s Face
Natalie Dormer
With Chris Hemsworth in Rush
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“The citrus makes it a little crisp and sharp. There’s
a light floral smell, like lilies, but the acidity
brings freshness to it.”—Dominique Ansel, owner and
chef, Dominique Ansel Bakery
“This is a scent a young, sophisticated woman would appreciate. As it dries down,
it doesn’t smell as fruity.” —Katie Chang, owner, Miomia
“My first impression is of overly ripe fruit, like
really soft red apple skins. It’s sweet and feminine.” —Carla Rzeszewski, wine
director, the Breslin,
the John Dory Oyster Bar,
and the Spotted Pig
▲
Calvin KleinDowntownTHE NOTES: Pear, plum,
bergamot, violet leaf,
and incense.
THE EXPERTS: A New York
City beauty boutique
owner, pastry chef, and
sommelier.
—ALEXANDRA OWENS
Smell This
Beauty Reporter
3-D Lip GlossIn the tube, these look like run-of-the-mill glittery glosses. Spread them on lips,
however, and the effects are otherworldly: The metallic formulas are flecked
with tiny iridescent particles that seem to change color depending on how much
you apply and the light you’re wearing them in. “The shimmery pigments are
contained in water that is suspended in oil,” says cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson.
“That way they appear to be inside the gloss rather than just on the surface,
giving them that 3-D effect.” Our picks: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar
in Black Metal Dahlia (shown above, top), a dark berry with a bright red sheen;
Shiseido Makeup Lacquer Rouge in GD 817 (center), a shiny yellow- and rose-gold
with nude shimmer; and Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture in 104 (bottom),
a prismatic combination of deep pink and pearlescent shimmer. —SOPHIA PANYCH
Beauty Buzzword
SplashlightsNoun: A horizontal band of bleached hair that
stretches from ear to ear.
This hair-color effect is unlike anything we’ve seen—and for New
York City colorist Aura Friedman, that’s the point. She wanted to
duplicate the effect of “a laser beam hitting you in a certain
spot.” Starting with the undermost layers, Friedman paints
bleach in a small section. Then she covers all the hair above and
below the bleach with a color close to the hair’s natural shade.
Expect to be wearing it in 2069. —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL
Read full reviews of these new glosses—and many more—at allure.com/go/product-finder.
allure.comMore glosses on
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Beauty Reporter
An anti-aging serum, a multitasker for hair, and a topcoat King Midas would love: The first 500 Allure readers to sign up at noon EDT on the dates below will get one free. Visit allure.com/go/free-stuff for details. —JENNA ROSENSTEIN
Free Stuff
September 3 Pureology Colour Fanatic. This spray promises solutions to 21 hair problems. We’re partial to these two: protection against color fading and frizz control.
September 6 Zoya Professional Lacquer in Maria Luisa. It creates a glittery effect on painted nails; two coats makes them look like they were covered in gold leaf.
▲▲
▲▲
Shiseido Makeup Luminizing
Satin Eye Color Trio in Lido
Algenist Advanced Anti-Aging Repairing Oil
allure.comProduct ReviewWhat it is: A face oil that helps make fine lines
and wrinkles less apparent over time
What it does: Boosts hydration and softness
with ceramides and microalgae oil, which
contains omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acids
Key ingredients: Microalgae oil and ceramides
(moisturizers); brown algae lipid extract
(antioxidant); essential oil (fragrance)
How it feels/smells/looks: This pale yellow
oil feels silky and absorbs in seconds. It has
a pleasant (nonfishy!) citrus scent.
Why we like it: “Microalgae is rich in oleic
acid, which is very emollient. And
studies have shown that algae is high in
antioxidants, which help both the
cellular-repair process and microcirculation,”
says dermatologist Jeannette Graf. “Those
with combination skin could use this in place
of their regular moisturizer. But people with
really dry skin will probably need something
extra.” Our acne-prone tester, who’s tried
dozens of facial oils, appreciated that it didn’t
leave her skin feeling coated in grease,
and thought her frown lines looked less
pronounced after two weeks of daily use.
—LINDSAY COLAMEO
➥For more product reviews, go to allure.com/go/product-finder.
The Inspiration“We were staying in Venice for an
advertising campaign for Missoni and took a boat to Lido
to shoot near the high sand dunes. It was of season, so the beach club was deserted. It has
the blue, melancholic feel of the beach at the end of the day.”
Rhapsody in Blues “However out-there or abstract or
intense the color family I’m working with, it’s got to live on the
face. There’s no point in me creating color if no one wears it.”
The Paint Swatches
“I play around with the color groupings that I’ve painted and put
them together to see what harmonizes, what contrasts. These
become the palettes.”
The Palette “The blues can be taken in a very
summery, bright, easy way, but the darker teal is actually kind of intense. You can get a hard-core
smoky-eye efect using that.”
Check it out! Dick Page shares his best makeup tricks and answers reader questions at allure.com/go/dick-page.
September 4 Blisslabs Essential Active Serum. Retinoids, niacinamide, kojic acid: This contains everything you need to tackle fine lines and discoloration.
September 5 StriVectin Antioxidant Defense Lotion. This lightweight moisturizer contains NIA-114 (a form of vitamin B
3) and reduces
redness with soothing oat-kernel extract.
A craggy coastline, a deserted
beach club, irregular floor tiles:
These are sources of inspiration
for makeup artist Dick Page’s
eye-shadow palettes for Shiseido,
including Lido, a trio of moody blues. “I don’t
think there’s any idiot like me that works like
this,” says Page, who sends his photographs
and hand-painted color samples to Shiseido’s
lab, where technicians turn each into cosmetic
reality. “I find harmonious combinations in
nature or cityscapes. By the time the palette is
finalized, I know these colors inside out. I’ve
lived with them a long time.” —MEIRAV DEVASH
Behind the Makeup
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Burnished GoldGold is usually regal and
important, or bright
and bling-y, but burnished
gold is dark and smoky
and cool. When you wear
such a potent shade
on your eyes, you need to
commit to a thick stripe
along the upper lashes
rather than a timid flick of color. Jouer Liquid Shimmer
Eyeliner in Lynx (below, top), Smashbox Waterproof
Shadow Liner in Black Gold (middle), and Clinique
Chubby Stick in Whopping Willow (bottom) are as
sexy as gold gets. —DANIELLE PERGAMENT
Color of the Moment
Peach and Lily
Tip: For Gisele-level
volume, Josh targets the roots, lifting
them with his fingers as he blows them
dry for four minutes. “The wide nozzle
lets more air shoot through the roots,”
he says.
Personal Shopper
MORE SHADES
Find your perfect gold shadow
at allure.com/go/product-finder.
The Bombshell Blowout
When car salesmen talk about high-powered engines and luxury
craftsmanship, they’re usually blowing hot air. For hairstylist
Harry Josh, who tends to Gisele’s strands, that’s the point.
We took his new blow-dryer for a test-drive. —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL
SpeedBlasting air at 80 mph,
it almost cut our drying
time in half. And so
did this trick from Josh:
Before every blowout,
he divides hair
into quarters and clips
them into buns. He
blow-dries one section
at a time, focusing
on the back two first.
“Your shoulders might
get tired, but the
hardest part is out of
the way,” he says.
WavesTo create Gisele’s
sexy bends, Josh rolls
two-to-three-inch
sections around a
two-inch round
brush from ends to
midlengths in
alternating sections.
Then he hits the
hair with the cool-shot
button while it’s still
wrapped around the
brush. “That locks
the waves in place so it
stays bouncy,” he says.
VolumeIons are great for
smoothing frizzy,
unruly hair, Josh says.
“But if someone wants
body—like Kate
Bosworth or Karolina
Kurkova—I need a
nonionic dryer.” So his
dryer has an on/of ion
switch: Use the ionic
setting on frizz-
prone areas, like your
hairline; flip back to
the regular setting for
the rest of your hair.
Use the wide nozzle (it comes
with two) for a bodacious supermodel
blowout.
The Far East has always been fertile ground for beauty trends, such as
spot lighteners, sheet masks, even fish pedicures. Peach and Lily, an
online emporium that carries the coolest, most unusual beauty
products from South Korea and Japan, connects women with the best
of those trends. Creators Alicia Yoon and Cindy Kim share some of
their favorite finds. —ANNE-MARIE GUARNIERI
1. Clio Eye Guard
Waterproof Liner: “Asian
women love a natural face with
a very thin line above the
lashes,” says Yoon. “This
ergonomic grip allows you to
get that kind of precision.”
2. Binchotan Facial Puff
and Facial Soap: “They both
contain charcoal powder,
used for centuries by Asian
women to pull dirt from their
skin. The puff is made from
konjac-root fibers. It exfoliates
so gently, mothers use it on
their babies,” Kim says.
3. Aromatica Rose Absolute
First Serum: “In Asia, women
use up to 15 skin-care products
a day, and they’re religious about
toner and serum,” says Yoon.
“This combines those two steps
into one product to save time.”
4. Mizon Returning Starfish
Cream: “Starfish extract is
great for firming and
keeping skin hydrated,” says
Yoon. “Korean scientists
discovered that starfish contain
a high concentration of
collagen and calcium, which
helps them regenerate.”
Beauty Reporter
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Beauty Reporter
Pretty, Easy
Katy Perry on her new fragrance, Killer Queen, a blend of plum,
jasmine, powdery musk, and praline. —ANNE-MARIE GUARNIERI
“My very first memory is the smell of fresh diapers. I must have been a toddler, but I remember that my diapers had blue and red Mickeys and Minnies printed on them—and a powdery smell. This new fragrance, Killer Queen, will always remind me of being 28—and it being a time when I learned lessons and let go of childish things.”
Queen P
25%Clara Bow (pouty lips)
55%Debbie Harry
(bleached-out hair)
20%Joan Jett
(tough-girl glare)
+ + =
Who’s That Girl?
More makeup colors on
allure.comFor the most gorgeous shades for your eye color, visit allure.com/ go/makeup-looks.
It’s the Zen koan of beauty: How can you
wear makeup that looks like you’re not
wearing any? The Bobbi & Katie Palette may
hold the answer. Bobbi Brown, who built
her career on subtle shades of brown, and
Katie Holmes, who built her career as Joey
Potter (enough said), collaborated to choose
the perfect no-makeup makeup essentials.
There’s a handy chocolate brown eye pencil,
neutral shadows with just enough shimmer
to make them interesting, and two Pot Rouge
lip and cheek tints that Holmes wanted
to be able to apply with her fingers. But our
favorite part: At $68, this palette costs
just $2 more than buying three of Brown’s
single eye shadows. —ALEXANDRA TUNELL
Sky FerreiraThe model-DJ-singer has a new EP on the way (I Will) and a style
that’s equal parts sexy, grungy, and cool. —A.M.G.
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There’s a new school of
thought that encour-
ages playing around
with perfume. Many
fragrances are now
pared down and per-
fect for layering— meaning you
can combine two, three, or even
four for a totally fresh and deeply
personal scent. But you can also
experiment with fragrances you
already own, putting brand-new
twists on perennial favorites.
“It’s a way to truly express your
personality,” says Chris Wyatt, the
global education director at Jo
Malone London and a fan of lay-
ering. The key is knowing which
notes work together and how
to subtly enhance them. Follow
these guidelines and indulge your
creative side, and you could be
wearing the season’s hottest new
fragrance—your own. —LEXI NOVAK
Personalize Your
Perfume
Beauty101 Creating an entirely new scent is a simple matter of layering the right notes.
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Bulletin
The New Military Style ʎ�Fall’s Best Booties ʎ�One Cool Cape
Oscar de
la Renta Jacquard gown, silk sandals, gloves, and crystal earrings
ANN TAYLOR
satin shoes, $98 (anntaylor.com).
MARCIANO
polyester-blend jacket, $298
(marciano.com).
EMPORIO ARMANI
velvet clutch, $795 (armani.com).
A vibrant, flowery hodgepodge outside the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan
TORY BURCH
cotton-and-velvet coat, $850, at
Tory Burch, N.Y.C. (212-510-8371).
Print ConditionBy Siobhan Bonnouvrier
This season’s most arresting styles are completely off the wall. That’s
because designers took inspiration from flocked wallpaper, a
seventeenth-century invention beloved by decoratorsÑand designersÑ
for its rich, opulent, and multidimensional qualities. With its pattern
of flames and roses, Oscar de la Renta’s bell-shaped gown can easily
dominate the roomÑand floor a few guests. And the gold, bronze, and
silvery green ferns on Gucci’s long-sleeved dress boldly outshine
any centerpiece. Just remember: Patent-leather pumps, crisp button-
down shirts, and tailored pants balance these Baroque looks.
GUCCI
silk dress, $4,200 (gucci.com).
BANANA REPUBLIC
polyester-blend pants, $89.50
(bananarepublic.com).
VERA WANG
wool-blend dress, $1,695, at Vera Wang,
N.Y.C. (212-382-2184).
Anne Hathaway in Los Angeles
PETUNIA
HANDBAGS
velvet bag with leather trim, $282
(petunia.com).
J.CREW
viscose top, $278 (jcrew.com).
Fashion
VINCE CAMUTO
satin top, $99 (vincecamuto.com).
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Fashion CravingsAttennnntion!
Olive green and camouflage take a strong commanding turn.
MUSTMARCIANO
wool nylon coat, $368, at
Marciano stores.
LUST3.1 PHILLIP LIM
rabbit-fur sweater, $995
(31philliplim.com).
MUSTSANDRO
mohair sweater, $340
(sandro-paris.com).
LUSTPROENZA SCHOULER
leather clutch, $2,245, at Proenza Schouler,
N.Y.C. (212-585-3200).
MUSTGALIAN
canvas clutch, $42 (galian.com).
LUSTBELSTAFF
wool-and-leather coat, $2,450
(belstaff.com).
MUSTGUESS
satin-and-patent-leather heels, $110 (guess.com).
MUSTEXPRESS
stretch jeans, $79.90, at Express stores.
LUSTMICHAEL KORS
silk polyester pants, $895, at select
Michael Kors stores.
MUSTMcGINN
cotton-blend jacket, $216 (houseoflolo.com).
MUSTCITIZEN
stainless-steel-and-canvas watch, $145
(amazon.com).LUSTJASON WU
cotton-leather-and- raccoon-fur jacket,
$3,670 (net-a-porter.com).
LUSTESQ MOVADO
stainless steel watch, $495
(esqmovado.com).
Lanvin
Fall 2013
LUSTMICHAEL KORS
calf-hair-and-leather heels, $425, at select Michael Kors Collection stores.
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The perfect day bag gets even more ladylike with coin-purse closures, gold
hardware, and a dash of embellishment.
It’s Handled
Fashion Extras
RALPH LAUREN
COLLECTION
leather bag, $3,500 (ralphlauren
collection.com).
VIONNET
leather bag, $1,995 (vionnet.com).
KATE SPADE
NEW YORK
leather-and-flannel bag, $298 (katespade.com).
MIU MIU
wool bag, $1,790, at select Miu Miu stores.
BOTTEGA VENETA
raffia-wool-and-snakeskin bag,
$4,600, at Bottega Veneta stores.
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Fashion Extras
LOEFFLER RANDALL
leather-and-cotton-blend booties, $475
(loefflerrandall.com).
BOTTEGA VENETA
goat-skin booties, $950
(bottegaveneta.com).
CHLOÉ
leather-and-lizard-skin
booties, $1,195, at Bergdorf
Goodman, N.Y.C. (212-872-8708).
TOMMY
HILFIGER
leather booties, $349, at Tommy Hilfiger, N.Y.C.
(212-223-1824).
DONNA KARAN
NEW YORK
printed-leather booties, $1,095, at select Donna
Karan stores.
GUCCI
leather booties, $995
(gucci.com).
Bootie CallMen’s-inspired shapes—and all-woman heels—make these boots doubly sexy.
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Fashion Expert
10 Beautiful Things
Giambattista ValliThe Italian
designer launched his label in 2005.
2. A tailor. “Beautiful clothes are nothing if the proportions
are off, and no one knows proportions like a tailor.”
4. Giambattista Valli coat and pants. “It’s like she stole this from a man, but the tail in the back is feminine.”
1. A Giambattista Valli bag. “An architectural bag provides structure. One click and you open a woman’s private universe.” Leather bag, $2,290, at Capitol, Charlotte, North Carolina (704-366-0388).
3. L’Avventura, directed by Michelangelo Antonioni. “There is something special about Antonioni’s women—quintessential Italian style.”
9. The
Pillow Book by Sei Shonagon. “Written about 1,000 years ago in Japan, it’s about beauty and emotion. Every woman should read it.”
10. Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon’s.
“It’s much more sensual for a woman to wear a men’s cologne. This with a
white shirt is the sexiest thing.” $125 for 100 ml (penhaligons.com).
8. Birkenstock-style sandals. “I love the idea of a boyish look that’s glamorous. Heels are nice, but flats are cool. And everyone does high heels.” Giambattista Valli leather sandals, $850, at Nuages, Aspen (970-925-6569).
6. Jewelry from Luigi Scialanga. “Luxury is a one-of-a-kind piece.” Antique jade pendant, $10,000, at Giambattista Valli, Paris (33-1-40-17-05-88).
5. A Mercedes-Benz. “The front is so chic and long. It takes up two parking spaces.”
Giambattista Valli Fall 2013
“Ugh, please, no. No, no, no.” This is what Giambattista Valli
thinks of trends. “When I hear that something is trendy,
I want to do the opposite,” he says. Valli, a native Roman
who now works in Paris, specializes in richly detailed
party dresses with ruffles and beading. This season, he
has imported elements of menswear—“a mix of two
wardrobes,” as he describes the fusion—to create loose-
fitting parkas with conspicuous zippers and draped
chiffon skirts worn with Vans-style sneakers. “My
muses, my Valli girls, have grown up, gotten married,
had children, and my collection has grown up, too,”
says the designer. Valli counsels women to choose
just a few pieces each season and to keep them for
years. “We make so many clothes, all of us in the fashion
world,” he says. But that doesn’t mean you need them
all. “What matters is how you mix them up and wear
them in different ways. The beauty of fashion is that it is
about style, not clothing.” —DANIELLE PERGAMENT
7. Giambattista Valli (Rizzoli). “I would never do a book
that’s a self-celebration. This is about the designing process—
obsession, inspiration, method—that anyone can relate to.”
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FENDI
calf-hair bootie with mink trim,
$1,700, at Fendi, N.Y.C. (212-759-4646).
Fashion Cult Object
Whoa!With its bristling mane and fat blue zebra stripes, this multitextured
bootie strikes a cocky profile. Fendi showed it as part of a fur-driven fall collection, one in which runway models wore dyed-fox
Mohawks and even the sunglasses were plushed up with little pelts. The body of the bootie is calf hair, the trim is mink, and the heel, a miracle
of mirrored scaffolding, delivers just the right kick. —FRANCES LITTLE DA
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The coolest jacket this season is actually a cape. Six fashionable women make the trend their own. By Alexandra Owens
Sunglasses “My sunglasses from
The Row are a summery
touch for fall.”
Shoes“There’s a coziness to
the texture of these
Prada suede pumps.”
Dress“The Row’s sheath
dress could be
really boring, but it’s
cut so beautifully.”
Bag “The classic shape of
this Mulberry bag is
never going to age.”
Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Stubbs & Wootton slippers.”
BAG: “Mulberry.” JEANS: “The Row
jean leggings.” LINGERIE: “Cosabella.”
STYLE ROLE MODEL: “Diana Vreeland.”
LIP COLOR: “Rose Lip Balm.”
FRAGRANCE: “Yann Vasnier lets me
test his new fragrances. I love his
ones for Tom Ford.” NAIL POLISH:
“Chanel Vamp.” MASCARA: “YSL.” SKIN
CARE: “Caudalie moisturizer.”
32, brand consultant and stylist
For Kim, a self-described minimalist,
the real pleasure of dressing is in the
details. “Some people like to go
outside the box with accessories,” she
says. “A pink bag is an easy fix to
spice up your outfit, but I’d rather keep
mine classic and simple.” LaCrasia
gloves, a chunky vintage gold necklace,
and understated Prada pumps give
a “ladylike touch” to the cape, while a
dress by The Row is “feminine
with a bit of edge.” ”The leather makes
it not look so ‘businesswoman in the
‘80s with sneakers.’”
Suekay Kim
An unexpected piece of
outerwear is being rein-
troduced to the coat
check. Capes have been
making a comeback on
the runway and the red carpet, as
seen at Derek Lam and Oscar de la
Renta and draped on Gwyneth Pal-
trow’s shoulders at the Oscars. We
asked six women to give Lauren
Ralph Lauren’s plaid wool cape their
own style. Wool cape, $365, at Lord
& Taylor stores.
User’s Guide To Style
Fashion Sense
Jewelry“This vintage gold
necklace adds
some extra polish
to the cape.”
Gloves“I like long gloves as
an alternative to long
sleeves.”
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DJ
Caldwell (left) has a checkered history with
capes. “Three years ago I bought a black cape
on eBay,” she says. “But it went into storage
because I couldn’t wear it without looking too
preppy.” This time, she didn’t try to hide
her playful style, selecting a vintage Pee-wee
Herman T-shirt and A.P.C. camouflage
pants. “The worst thing you could do is force
a look that doesn’t match your personality.
My posture is different when I’m wearing
something I don’t feel comfortable in.”
Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Keds.” JEWELRY: “My Bing Bang
cuff ring—my hands are the focus
when I’m DJing.” BAG: “I use a Barbour
tote as a diaper bag.” LINGERIE:
“VPL.” MASSAGE: “Great Jones Spa.”
HAIRSTYLIST: “Dailey at H2 Salon in
Brooklyn.” FRAGRANCE: “Diptyque Tam
Dao.” VACATION SPOT: “Paraguay.”
Lindsey Caldwell
30, designer, Veda
For Butler (right), every fall look begins with a leather jacket and
boots. And a cape wasn’t going to change that. “I didn’t know
how to wear it at first,” she says. “I didn’t want to look like Eloise.”
So she incorporated the cape into her “downtown style” —
doubling up on the outerwear and layering the cape over ripped
Levi’s and a Veda motorcycle jacket to appear “more undone.”
Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Balenciaga.” BAG: “Céline.” JEANS: “Acne.”
LINGERIE: “Elle Macpherson Intimates.” FACIALIST:
“Christine Chin.” HAIRSTYLIST: “Lena Ott at
Suite Caroline.” LIP COLOR: “Nars Russian Doll.” NAIL
POLISH: “Anything by Butter London.” MASCARA:
“Bobbi Brown.” SKIN CARE: “Aveeno Positively Radiant.”
VACATION SPOT: “My family’s ranch in Argentina.”
Lyndsey Butler
Glasses“My Moscot glasses
are a vintage pair
the store had on a
dusty shelf.”
Top“A plain white
top would be too
boring—and
there’s never a
bad time for
this Pee-wee
Herman T-shirt.”
Pants“A.P.C. camouflage
pants toughen up
the look so it isn’t too
preppy or girlie.”
Shoes“These jelly heels by
Melissa + Alexandre
Herchcovitch are sexy
without seeming like I take
myself too seriously.”
Boots “The green snakeskin on
these Dries van Noten
boots makes every outfit
seem more special—it’s
a little unexpected.”
Sunglasses“These Moscot
frames fit my small
face without being
overwhelming.”
Jacket “I wanted to mix the
texture of the
leather with the
wool cape.”
Jeans“My vintage Levi’s are
on their last legs. I like
the high-and-low mix
of the shiny boots and
ripped-up jeans.”
Fashion Sense
Bag“I don’t carry a
fancy purse unless
I’m going out,
and this Chanel
one is perfect.”
Nails“Naomi Yasuda at
Hello Beautiful Salon
in Brooklyn did
my tie-dye nails.”
Top“I had to wear my
boyfriend’s Surface
to Air button-down
shirt because
he borrowed mine!”
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32, designer, Jen Kao
“I always like to work outside of my
comfort zone,” says Kao. “Sometimes I
pick fabrics that scare me because I want
to see what I can do with them.” That’s
exactly how she challenged herself with
the wool cape, wrapping and pinning it
into a deconstructed skirt to create “a
reinterpretation of ’90s grunge.” Kao
also tried converting the cape into a
flannel shirt and a baby-doll dress. “I love
pieces that are multifunctional.”
Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Alaïa.” BAG: “Jil Sander
leather backpack.” JEANS: “BLK DNM.”
LINGERIE: “La Perla.” STYLE ROLE
MODELS: “Patti Smith and Diane
Keaton.” MASSAGE: “A house call from
Bobby Carlson.” FACIAL: “The
Mandarin Oriental.” HAIRSTYLIST:
“Patricia Aherne at Privé.” LIP COLOR:
“Carmex Moisture Plus.” MASCARA:
“Clé de Peau.” SKIN CARE: “Shu
Uemura Cleansing Beauty Oil.”
VACATION SPOT: “Bali or Cambodia.”
Jen Kao
Clutch“This green-stained
wooden clutch
from my resort
collection adds just
a touch of color.”
Boots“I have a love of Dr.
Martens, but I
decided on these
Chanel military
boots, which have
a modern twist.”
Hat“In the fall, I wear
a beanie, like this
one from Arth,
almost every day.
It’s such an easy
accessory.”
Jacket“My Jen Kao
jacket adds some
structure. It’s
vinyl—I like
kitschy design
sometimes.”
Fashion Sense
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27, Bloomberg TV technology reporter
and documentary filmmaker
No matter where she travels, Crane (left) is
always on the hunt. “I once did a show about
flea markets,” she says. “Now, whenever
I travel, I try to pick up an item that reminds
me of that place.” Even if they’re not vintage,
Crane favors pieces with “old-fashioned
character,” like these Moscot sunglasses—
and capes. “I actually own three.”
Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Tod’s driving shoes.” BAG:
“Chloé.” JEANS: “J Brand.” LINGERIE: “When
you’re having a bad day, it’s nice to
stroll into Journelle.” STYLE ROLE MODEL:
“Kate Bosworth.” MASSAGE: “Shibui
Spa at the Greenwich Hotel.” FACIALIST:
“My dermatologist, Michele Green.”
LIP COLOR: “M.A.C. Fast Play.” NAIL POLISH:
“OPI Barefoot in Barcelona.” MASCARA:
“Benefit Bad Gal.” SKIN CARE: “Clarins
Double Serum.” VACATION SPOT: “San
Ysidro Guest Ranch in Santa Barbara.”
Rachel Crane
33, market director, style.com
Larroudé (right) plays with extravagant clothing for shoots,
but when dressing herself, she prefers casual staples. Here,
she toned down the cape with Genetic jeans and Gianvito
Rossi pumps. “I wanted to do something real,” she says.
Larroudé’s editorial eye did help when she tried the cape
with a pencil skirt. “Maybe if I were taller, like Gisele.”
Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Manolo Blahnik.” JEWELRY: “Wilfredo Rosado
doesn’t look too precious.” LINGERIE: “Calvin Klein.”
MASSAGE: “Sense Spa at the Carlyle.” FACIALIST:
“Emilia K. at Dr. Jon Turk’s office.” LIP COLOR: “I have
a Clarins Lip Perfector in every bag.” FRAGRANCE:
“Chanel No. 5—I always go back.” MASCARA:
“Lancôme.” VACATION SPOT: “Turks and Caicos.”
Marina Larroudé
Top“The H&M top is
short and thin, so
when you tuck it in
it’s not too bulky.”
Bag“Even though it’s
small, my Céline
purse actually
fits a lot.”
Jewelry“I try to wear
something that’s been
given to me by
somebody I love, like
this necklace with an
old coin my boyfriend
found in Greece.”
Boots“I always have a
camera in my hand
or in front of me—my
Tod’s boots are so
comfortable, I wear
them for both roles.”
Fashion Sense
Bag“I prefer bags with
minimal logos
and hardware, like
this one from
Calvin Klein.”
Jeans “These Genetic
jeans are so
stretchy, you
could wear them
all day.”
Top “J.Crew merino
cashmere
sweaters are
warm but light.”
Sunglasses“The color blends
in with my hair, so
they don’t stand
out too much.”
Skirt“This Steven Alan
skirt reminds me of
a schoolgirl uniform,
which suits the
preppy cape.”
Shoes“Gianvito Rossi
isn’t too crazy or
over-the-top.”
Jewelry“When I got
married, my
grandmother
gave me her
vintage Rolex.”
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Zeroing in on the perfect blazer or a one-in-
a-million vintage find isn’t just a talent—
it’s a career. Hollywood’s top stylists reveal
their shopping strategies. By Brooke Le Poer Trench
Stylist Secrets:Shopping Like a Pro
Kate Beckinsale in Los Angeles
Fashion Advice
Ashley Olsen in New York City
Emma Roberts in Los Angeles
Anne Hathaway and a friend in New York City
Jessica Alba in Beverly Hills
Khloé Kardashian in New York City
Kate Mara in West Hollywood
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Top Stylists
Cher CoulterHas worked with Nicole
Richie, Kate Bosworth, and Elizabeth Olsen
George KotsiopoulosHas worked with Zooey
Deschanel, Kerry Washington, and Freida Pinto
Nicole ChavezHas worked with Kristen
Bell, Rachel Bilson, and Catherine Zeta-Jones
Penny LovellHas worked with Rose Byrne, Mary Elizabeth Winstead, and
Bella Heathcote
Lawren HowellHas worked with Emma Stone,
Jennifer Lawrence, and Jennifer Garner
Kate YoungHas worked with Michelle
Williams, Natalie Portman, and Rachel Weisz
Check the label. “Look for
designs by Thierry Mugler and
Jean Paul Gaultier from the late
’80s and early ’90s—so many
recent collections hark back to
that period,” says Coulter, who
also snaps up anything by Zandra
Rhodes and Ossie Clark.
Mind the details. Don’t bother
with basics. “I’m always on the
lookout for unique prints,” says
Coulter, who goes for colorful
Pucci prints from the ’70s, Zandra
Rhodes floral dresses from the
’80s, and patterned Hermès pieces
from any era.
Grab bags. You can’t go wrong
with old bags from key designers,
says Coulter. “Chanel, Gucci, and
Yves Saint Laurent have always
made beautiful bags with great
hardware,” she says.
Watch your step. Be picky about
shoes. “Anything before the
’70s tends to look frumpy, and
you can’t tailor or modernize
shoes like you can clothing,” says
Coulter, who buys the odd
pair of spike heels from the ’80s.
“Otherwise, I’m into cowboy
boots. They look disgusting when
they’re new, but after two decades
of wear, they’re amazing.”
Cinch it. Coulter looks for leather
or exotic-skin belts that are
about an inch wide with heavy,
detailed buckles: “I recently
bought an incredible black suede
belt with a gold lion-head clasp—
for $25,” she says.
Fashion Advice
Great style is more democratic than it seems. “You don’t need to wear
head-to-toe designer,” says stylist Cher Coulter, who works with Kate
Bosworth and Nicole Richie. “In fact, that’s exactly what you don’t want
to do.” The secret to a truly cool outfit is mixing old and new, high
and low. It’s harder than it sounds (or stylists wouldn’t rake in the big
bucks), but some guiding principles make it a little easier. “Start with
well-fitting staples—jeans that elongate, a sharp black blazer, the perfect white shirt,”
says Coulter. Then add in a little of your own personality: “A worn vintage belt over a
floral sundress; a leather jacket you’ve had for years over a designer dress.” Here, top
stylists share their shopping strategies. The freedom of expression is up to you.
When someone says, “Oh, this? It’s vintage,” the subtext is clear: You will never own
this. And that’s exactly why stylists love vintage shopping. “We want pieces no one
else has,” says Coulter. “Plus, if you know how to spot a gem, you can save money.”
How to Shop for Vintage Clothes
1KNITS
“Cheap sweaters tend to pill within a few months,” says Coulter.
“Mainly because they’re not 100 percent wool or cashmere.”
2BOOTS
“For hard-wearing winter shoes like flat boots, spend more and
you’ll have them for years rather than months,” says Coulter.
3LEATHER
“You only have to buy a leather jacket once,” says stylist Kate Young. “The more you wear it, the better it looks and feels.”
3Things to Splurge On
Sarah Jessica Parker in a vintage dress
Michael Kors cashmere
sweater, $1,195, at select Michael
Kors stores.
Christian Louboutin
leather boots, $1,775, at Christian
Louboutin, N.Y.C. (212-396-1884). Reed Krakoff
leather bomber jacket, $2,990
(reedkrakoff.com).
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Fashion Advice
A great blazer can polish your look instantly.
According to Coulter, the most flattering cut
skims your arms so they look slim and nips in
at the waist. Stick to two buttons and one vent.
And hem it if need be: ÒThe jacket should end
at the bottom of your hip bonesÑjust an inch
longer, and it can look a little bulky,Ó she says. And donÕt for-
get comfort: ÒIt should look tailored but feel quite soft when
you handle itÑstiff fabric is the worst.Ó Coulter likes wool for
day and crepe for night. And buy a stand-alone blazer rather
than one half of a suit: ÒTheyÕre designed to be worn with a
variety of pieces, so the proportions are usually better.Ó
Three Ways To Wear It
1Sweetly does it. ÒI love a blazer
over a feminine chiffon dress,Ó says
stylist Nicole Chavez. ÒItÕs a nice
way to mix those two looksÑsomething
soft against something structured.Ó
2After 8. ÒIÕm a big fan of leath-
er pants worn with a black wool
blazer,Ó says Coulter, who likes
the ones from Elizabeth and James and
Isabel Marant. ÒIÕd wear them with black
pointy heels and chunky gold jewelry.Ó
3Showing leg. A classic blazer
makes shorts look more sophis-
ticated. ÒI like shorts that are tai-
lored and neat,Ó says stylist Lawren
Howell, who suggests wearing them
with a tucked-in silk blouse. ÒThe look is
pretty, but the silhouette is sharp.Ó
The Perfect
Black Blazer
Model Anja Rubik balances an oversize jacket with skintight pants and towering heels.
Style blogger Elin Kling’s leather pants help dress up her blazer for evening.
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Fashion AdviceHow to
Make Cheap Clothes Look
ExpensiveÒEveryone throws something
cheap in the mix,Ó says Howell. ÒThatÕs just how people
dress these days.Ó
1Add metal. “Gold accessories
make cheap clothes look good,”
says Howell. “If you’re going to
wear a statement piece, like a large
Céline choker, keep it to that. For
smaller accessories, you can layer.”
2Keep it simple. An outfit that
is clean and minimal is more
likely to look high-end because
“embellishment can look really cheap
if it isn’t done well,” says Lovell, who
likes to combine a simple black dress
with a thin leather belt and heels.
3Watch for static. “Let fabric be
your guide,” says Coulter. “I wear
a lot of Topshop, Asos, and Zara,
but I tend to stick to cotton. If a fabric
creates static, it will be uncomfortable
to wear and probably look cheap.”
4Do the milkshake. “Look at
it from all angles and make sure
you can sit comfortably in it,”
says Howell. “Watch it as you move.
If you’re still not sure, snap a photo
and send it to a friend whose opinion
you trust.” Coulter notes that well-
fitting tailored pieces are harder to
find: “Casual cuts, like a button-down
shirt, a simple tea dress, or slouchy
pants, are your best bet.”
TOPSHOP “My favorite cotton floral tea
dresses are all from Topshop,” says Coulter. “I have so many because the
prints are gorgeous.”
J.CREW “I’m in love with their
sharp wool blazer with gold buttons,” says Coulter.
“They do one every season, and it’s an instant classic.”
ZARA
“Their jeans, T-shirts, and tailored pants are well cut,
and no one knows they came from a chain,” says stylist
Penny Lovell.
GAP
“You can’t get better than their soft, thin cotton T-shirts—with quality this good, the
notion of a luxury T-shirt is absurd,” says stylist George Kotsiopoulos. Gap’s clothes can
run big, so try before you buy.
H&M
“H&M has some of the best T-shirts and buttoned shirts,” says Lovell. “They
use nice cotton, good colors, and flattering shapes.”
How to Shop at Chain StoresEven fashion-obsessed stylists don’t sink all of their hard-earned cash into
expensive clothes. They seek out cute, quality basics at chain stores.
Kate Middleton regularly wears clothes from chain stores, including Zara.
Model Karolina Kurkova in a miniskirt by Zara
H&M cotton-blend shirt,
$20, at H&M stores.
Gap cotton T-shirts,
$20 each (gap.com).
J.Crew wool blazer, $198 (jcrew.com).
Zara polyester-blend pants, $60, at Zara
stores.
Topshop polyester
dress, $92 (topshop
.com).
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When summer is over, you don’t
have to abandon self-tanning,
but you do have to change your
approach. A deep bronze looks
unnatural in the fall. Instead, a
sheer golden hue reveals the tex-
ture of your skin.
Layer it on. Gradual self-tanner gives
your skin color without depositing an
intense amount of bronze. To achieve
that translucent tone on your face,
smooth on a gradual self-tanner two
or three times a week. Choose one
with moisturizing ingredients, since a
self-tan lasts longer on hydrated skin.
Think head to toe. When you’re show-
ing less skin, it’s tempting to focus on
your face, but that looks unbalanced.
Color on your face fades more quickly
than on your body (because of cleans-
ing and the products you use), so rub
gradual tanner on your arms, legs,
and torso just once or twice a week.
Even out. Women with olive or dark
skin tend to battle splotchiness, rath-
er than paleness, as their tan fades.
If you need to even out light patches,
switch to a formula with more pig-
ment, like traditional self-tanning
cream or mousse. You need to be wary
of overdoing it, though. For your face,
apply moisturizer on the tricky areas,
like your hairline and eyebrows and
along the jawline. Then put a pea-size
amount of self-tanner on a sponge
applicator and gently blend it using
sweeping motions from the center
of your face outward and upward.
Finish by working the product down
the neck and around the ears. On
your body, avoid a bronze overdose
by using a mitt, which distributes
the product evenly while blend-
ing away some of the excess color.
—INTERVIEW BY SOPHIA PANYCH
How to Prolong Your Summer Glow
An Interview With Nichola Joss
Joss is the St. Tropez global tanning
and skin finishing expert. Her
celebrity clients include Kate Moss,
Katy Perry, and Gwyneth Paltrow.
Insiders’Guide
Advice from the experts on arranging your bathroom,
choosing chic flats, serving sweets, and more.
TipFor evening, a little
shimmer on your
arms, shoulders,
and shins enhances
a subtle self-tan.
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Bathrooms are too often generic
spaces that don’t reflect your per-
sonality. The best thing to do is to
look everywhere but a dedicated
bathroom store for what you need.
In my bathroom, I have a vintage
mirror, glass vases for storage, and
a bamboo hat rack for my towels.
Dry off. Drape towels on hooksÑthey
dry faster and look nice. If you do
have a bar, hang one towel or three;
odd numbers look best. I love the
solid-color towels from Abyss or the
printed styles from Porthault.
Be resourceful. I use colored vases,
jars, and ceramic pots for items like
my makeup brushes, cotton balls, and
tweezers. If you keep everyday items
in lovely containers, the room looks
functional, but pretty, too.
Tuck it away. I can’t stand toilet-roll
holders. I keep my toilet paper piled
in a basket or a canvas storage box
from Hable Construction. These are
also a good place to put bulky things,
like hair-dryers and curling irons.
Lose the novelty curtain. Hang a
simple white cotton shower curtain
(I like the quilted ones at Restoration
Hardware) and then a thin plastic one
on the inside. You can wash the cur-
tain whenever necessary and replace
it if it starts to look tired.
Ban the pump. Good soap has a lin-
gering scent that’s much nicer than a
diffuser. I use bar soaps, and I keep
them in a pretty dish.
Show off. It may sound obvious, but
shower storage looks better with
nice products. I don’t coordinate my
shampoo and body wash, but because
I don’t buy the supersaver shampoo,
the packaging tends to work together.
—INTERVIEW BY BROOKE LE POER TRENCH
How to Arrange Your Bathroom
An Interview With Rita Konig
Konig is a London-based interior designer and style writer.
The vanity in designer Betsey Johnson’s New York City bathroom in 2007
Insiders’ GuideAsk AllureQ: What is the best way to
strengthen my brittle, peeling
nails? —Kieran, Glendale, CA
A: Regular use of any
moisturizer will help
keep your nails pliable so
they bend rather than
break under pressure. A
moisturizer with alpha
hydroxy and beta hydroxy
acids is ideal—we don’t
actually know why, but
they help make nails
stronger. Also, research
shows that biotin can
strengthen nails, so a daily
supplement may help.
Ask your doctor for the
correct biotin dosage. Typically, water
absorption is one of the causes of soft
nails, so you can also try to prevent
that by wearing rubber gloves for wet
chores like dish washing. —Richard Scher
Scher is a professor of dermatology specializing in nail health at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City.
Sweet TalkMacarons are overrated; cupcakes are
played out. At a cocktail party or
brunch, serving candy is the perfect
way to be sweet—without being
twee. Rosie O’Neill, co-owner of online
candy shop Sugarfina (and sister
of Allure assistant editor Catherine Q.
O’Neill), explains how.
Dish it out. Simple bowls keep candy
from feeling childish. O’Neill suggests
dessert and compote bowls in a single
color, like white. Cluster diferent sizes
as a centerpiece.
Narrow it down. “Just as you wouldn’t
wear all your jewelry at once, don’t put
out dozens of types of candy,” says
O’Neill. Instead, go with five to seven
kinds, but stick to just two or three
colors of candy or wrapper—you’re
aiming for variety and visual interest.
Work together. All candy tastes good,
but not all candy tastes good together.
Chocolates and caramels are great
bases that work with unusual choices,
like champagne-flavored gummy bears
or mint chip malt balls.
Take it easy. Avoid serving anything too
hard or chewy that will make it dificult
to talk or that can’t be consumed in
one bite. —ALEXANDRA OWENS
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Insiders’ Guide
How to Wear Flats (And Not Look Frumpy)
An Interview With Tabitha Simmons
Simmons, who designs shoes under her own name, is a fashion stylist
for Vogue, Dazed & Confused, and AnOther Magazine.
Flats are having a big moment right now, and they can look every bit as
chic as a pair of heels. They’re also unexpected, especially in the evening.
Point it out. Round-toe flats can feel old-fashioned. When the toe is nice and
sharp, the shoes are more elegant since they elongate your legs. Look for ones
that are cut low on the foot—you want to see a bit of toe cleavage.
Live a little. I love the look of two-tone flats. You could go graphic with black-
and-white or have fun with brighter colors. If they’re for evening, I like one solid
color with several textures: black suede with a grosgrain bow or red leather with
an oversize red crystal. If there’s only one color, the shoes won’t be too busy.
Make it leggy. The key to looking stylish in flats is to keep the rest of your
outfit short or fitted. Try pointy flats with Capri pants, a shrunken T-shirt,
and a fitted jacket. If you wear a skirt, go for one that’s short. Since you’re not
wearing heels, it’ll look chic, not provocative. A chiffon tea dress that skims
your body is a pretty alternative if you want to be a bit more covered up. When
you wear jeans, make sure they’re fitted and that you can see the ankle. Pieces
to avoid: wide-leg trousers and big, loose skirts that hit at midcalf.
Get the right bag. If you’re doing a short skirt or dress with your flats, a tote or
oversize bag looks great—a tiny bag would look dinky. If you’re more covered
up, say in skinny jeans and a jacket, go for a clutch or a cross-body pouch.
Small outfit, big bag and vice versa. —INTERVIEW BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT
TipAvoid logos at
all costs—they’re
overdone.
Boasting about yourself can feel as
rewarding as eating a good meal,
according to a Harvard study. But as
anyone with a Facebook account
knows, too many people are guilty of
gluttony. Here’s how to share your news
the right way. —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL
YOU GOT A NEW JOBDon’t post: “Feeling sooooo blessed! I
have the best view from my new ofice.”
Do: Change your title and company in
LinkedIn and your Facebook About
Me section. It’s a less obnoxious way to
spread the news, says Stephanie Buck
of the tech-news site mashable.com.
YOU’RE ON VACATIONDon’t post: “So embarrassing,
there’s a special elevator to our suite.
Check it out. #VIPtreatment”
Do: Create a photo album with a few
simple details of the trip, rather
than posting a barrage of pictures one
by one. This lets people opt in or out
depending on their interest, says Buck.
YOU VOLUNTEEREDDon’t post: A picture of yourself raking
the local hurricane-ravaged park. If your
goal is just to tell people you did it,
you’ve missed the point of volunteering.
Do: Provide a link to a website
where people can donate their time
or resources.
YOU’RE GETTING MARRIEDDon’t post: “Today’s dress was a
disaster—no way I’m wearing sleeves.
#bootcamp” “Most people don’t want to
read every step of your wedding-
planning process,” says Meryl Weinsaft
Cooper, coauthor of Be Your Own Best
Publicist (Career Press).
Do: Give occasional updates—anything
genuinely hilarious. And after the big
day, upload a snapshot from
the reception and a quick thank-you
to people for their well-wishes.
YOU HAD A BABYDon’t post: A status update about
your baby genius’s every single
first—months ahead of schedule.
Do: Share your absolute favorite
photos. Upload the rest to a
Flickr account and email links directly
to close friends.
YOU LOST WEIGHTDon’t post: “My favorite pants are way
too big for me now. :(”
Do: Buy a belt. And just come right out
and say you met your goal. You’re
not getting away with the brag by trying
to make it self-deprecating, says
Harris Wittels, the author of
Humblebrag: The Art of False Modesty
(Grand Central Publishing).
Bragging Rites
Audrey Hepburn photographed by Cecil Beaton circa 1964
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Insiders’ Guide
Confessions From a Blowout Bar
I have a client who comes in every day. She doesn’t even own shampoo.
An Interview With Gregory Patterson
Patterson is the lead educator for Blow, the New York Blow Dry Bar.
Most hairdressers see their clients every six to eight weeks.
I see mine at least once a week—if not two, three, or even
four times a week. It’s the difference between asking
whether a client is seeing somebody and asking her how
the third date went. I have a client who comes in every
day at 8 A.M. for the most basic blowout. She doesn’t even
own shampoo. Those women freak out when they go on
vacation. They come in on the day of their flight, and I show them how to make
their blowout last with pinning techniques and dry shampoo. Recently, a client
came back to me after 17 days in Aruba and still had sand in her hair. I wish
more women knew how to communicate what they want. Fifty percent of my
clients sit down and say they want it messy but not too messy, straight but not
too straight, volume but not too big. One woman demanded so much volume
and movement that we actually had to cut her hair to get it the way she wanted.
That night she got engaged, and I like to think I had something to do with it.
I learn a lot about my clients’ private lives. More than once, I’ve had clients
purchase the blowouts on separate credit cards so their husbands don’t see
them on the bill. I get women ready for their dates—and I get them ready to go
back home to their husbands. I have to stay professional. I’ll ask, “Should we
do smooth with movement so you don’t attract too much attention? Or do you
want to stand out when you walk into the room?” —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL
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The Hair Pro
The 1st arrondissement, Paris What’s not to like about a long, beachy, blonde ponytail? What strikes me about this one in particular is this woman is doing it in the middle of Paris, wearing a tough leather jacket that makes the basic style much cooler.
Snap HappyBy Chris McMillan
Paris streetsI always love boy hairstyles on girls, and this is one of the best examples. Her cut is different from my usual androgynous look because she has all those awesomely long layers on top—I’m already starting to play around with that.
London streets I call her Casual Kate Middleton. Her hair is naturally gorgeous, but anyone with some length and a curling iron could do this. I’m always looking for easy long hairstyles for my clients, and these waves are perfect.
I always have the insane urge to style women on the street.
Near the Park Hyatt hotel, ParisThis is a hostess at the Park Hyatt, and every time I’ve seen her she’s had this same horizontal chignon. What’s so great is that it’s incredibly elegant but not perfect—and I love any style that is done and undone at the same time.
High-street shopping, LondonThis is a standard lob (long bob), but what makes it work is that this woman is so classically styled. It’s good to be reminded that hairdressers don’t always have to do the new, trendy thing—classic cuts can look chic on the right person.
With my salons in
Los Angeles, movie
premieres in Lon-
don, and magazine
photo shoots in
New York City, I live on airplanes.
Over the years, I’ve learned that trav-
eling is a great way to get hair ideas,
so now I take pictures with my smart-
phone of women on the streets all around the world. These
are some of the shots that have inspired me the most.
Coachella music festivalI saw this model, Chloe Nørgaard, at Coachella and instantly fell in love with her hair. I follow her on Instagram, and she’s constantly changing her look. After I took this picture, I began experimenting with more colorful ombré effects.
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The magical transformations that have been
honed to a fine art began with one woman’s
ingenious, pleading letter to a magazine. The
origin of the before-and-after. By Virginia Postrel
The First
Makeover
In 1936, Barbara Phillips was
a 21-year-old nurse who
longed to change her life.
She’d gone to nursing school
not because she had any great
desire to help the sick, she
admitted, but because she
thought “nurses had only to
lift one languid finger to have
fabulous salaries forced upon them.”
Instead, she found herself working long
hours for “a rather small pittance” and
dreaming of a new career.
Phillips wanted to be an actress. But
she’d had no luck at any of her audi-
tions, and she realized she had a huge
problem. She was, by her own descrip-
tion, “as homely as a hedgehog.”
Then she had an inspiration. That
summer, she had read a series of articles
in Mademoiselle magazine about how
Paramount Studios makeup artist Eddie
Senz (“a Michelangelo of makeup”) and
other beauty experts made Hollywood
stars look their best. Called the “Make the
Most of Yourself ” campaign, the series
was supposed to give readers “a complete
course” they could follow at home.
Phillips had a better idea.
She wrote a letter to Mademoiselle
and begged for personal attention. Fear-
ing a future as “a frigid old maid with a
two-room apartment,” she appealed to
the editors’ sympathy and pride. “Don’t
you think it would be a feather in your
cap if you could be the one who changed
this very ugly duckling into even a pale
pink swan?” she wrote. “If you have any
of Pygmalion in you, please be a sport
and help me out.”
Her audacious proposal worked. In the
November 1936 issue of Mademoiselle,
Phillips appeared as the first-ever subject
of a before-and-after magazine makeover.
Model Bette Franke gets the full treatment backstage at the Rochas show in Paris.
Essay
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144 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
Styles have evolved and waist-
lines have grown, but the glamour
of those before-and-after shots
hasn’t changed that significantly in
three quarters of a century. You can
be instantly beautiful, a makeover
promises, and also truer to your
inner ideal. An outer change can
lead to a better life. All
you have to do is trust spe-
cialists who can see your
unique potential, know
the right tricks, and devote
their skills to revealing, or
creating, the new you.
That’s the difference
between getting a makeover
and just having a bunch of
beauty treatments at the
same time. On a normal
trip to the hairdresser or the cosmet-
ics counter, the experts ask you what
you want. With a makeover, they tell
you what you need. Their expertise
makes the new look seem effort-
less, like magic, especially when you
just see before-and-after photos in a
magazine or the “reveal” scene on a
TV show, and miss the angst, pain, or
complicated preparations.
Glamour always contains an ele-
ment of illusion; the word “glamour”
originally meant a literal magic spell
that made things look better than
they really were. In the case of make-
overs, what’s hidden are the conflicts
created by trusting your appearance
to someone else.
For most people, a
makeover isn’t a
real-life experi-
ence, but rather
an escapist fan-
tasy, enjoyed while
reading magazines
or watching movies
or reality shows.
Most of us don’t really want to trans-
form our appearance that radically.
Our identities are too wrapped up in
the way we look.
But Phillips yearned for some
bossy beauty instruction. On a hot
summer Saturday, she met with the
editors of Mademoiselle in New York
City and agreed to serve as a “human
guinea pig, a laboratory specimen to
be analyzed, dissected, polished up
piece by piece, and reassembled.” The
goal was to prove that the magazine’s
beauty tips really worked. “If Bar-
bara Phillips could be transformed,”
she explained in an article about her
experience, “so could anyone.”
A squadron of specialists spent
the following week remolding her
appearance. “We’ll do a job on you,
all right,” promised Senz, the makeup
artist. (At the end of World War II,
this master of transformation would
advise the U.S. government on how
Hitler might disguise himself to elude
capture.) After brusquely diagnosing
Phillips’s flaws, Senz resculpted the
planes of her long face with cosmet-
ics, plucked away her eyebrows and
drew in new ones, and gave her enor-
mous false eyelashes. Since there
wasn’t time to grow out her scraggly
bob, she also got a custom-made wig
in a stylish perm, adding fullness to
her narrow head.
A dentist capped her crooked
overbite, and she abandoned her
glasses. Designer Marie de Narde
(who later left fashion after marrying
actor Jack Lord, of Hawaii Five-O
fame) created an evening gown that,
with “some miraculous foundation
work by Best and Company,” a Fifth
Avenue retailer, disguised Phillips’s
lack of curves. She even had speech
lessons to improve her high-pitched,
“smothered” voice.
At the end of the week, Phillips
emerged looking less like a gawky
farm girl and more like an elegant
Hollywood star. “A stranger was gaz-
ing at me out of the mirror,” she
wrote. “Her face was full and round-
ed, her lips full and wide, her even,
straight teeth gleamed. I didn’t feel
like Barbara Phillips and certainly I
didn’t look like her.”
Her article ended with a resolution
to do everything necessary to keep
up her new look. “No midnight bell,
I hope, for this Cinderella,” she wrote.
As it turned out, however, her
adventures as a glamour girl were
merely an enjoyable interlude of
imagination and escape. Phillips
didn’t go on to become a star of stage
or screen. In fact, as the Mademoi-
selle issue hit newsstands, Time
reported that “Miss Phillips was
back in Boston, looking once more
the way God made her.” (Confirm-
ing the Time report, the 1940 cen-
sus records a 25-year-old Barbara E.
Phillips living in Boston.)
The makeover may not have
changed Phillips’s life, but it did alter
Mademoiselle’s fate. The story was a
phenomenal success, drawing enough
new readers to turn around the strug-
Phillips was, by her own description,
“as homely as a hedgehog.”
AFTERThe glamorous results of a week in the hands of Mademoiselle’s makeover team
BEFOREPhillips, the 21-year-old nurse, in 1936
Essay
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gling magazine, which
was barely a year old
when Phillips wrote
her letter.
Senz started writ-
ing regular columns,
each featuring before-
and-after photos of a
woman with a common
appearance problem.
In January 1937, for
instance, Senz trans-
formed an unnamed
woman whom he
described, accurately
but tactlessly, as “short,
fat, stocky, and missing
in attractive feminine
curves.” He reworked
her “round, moon-
like face” with make-
up and a new hairstyle,
gave her a corset that
took two inches off her
hips, and put her in a
dress with wide shoul-
ders and a V-neck to
elongate her shape.
How she reacted to the
makeover—or to Senz’s
blunt comments—we
don’t know.
Mademoiselle also
turned Phillips’s idea
into an annual con-
test. By 1938, Made-
moiselle’s circulation had quintupled,
and some 5,000 young women sent
in letters and photos, vying for the
chance to win a trip to New York City
and a complete beauty overhaul. Kal-
lie Foutz, a 26-year-old fashion copy-
writer from Salt Lake City and one of
Brigham Young’s great-granddaugh-
ters, was especially determined. To
make her “before” photo as ugly as
possible, she washed her hair in harsh
soap to remove all the curl and body,
stuck her newly lank locks behind
her ears, plucked out her eyebrows
and drew new ones in an unflatter-
ing shape, and, recalls her younger
brother, “carefully assembled a ward-
robe that was wildly out of fashion.”
In her contest entry, Foutz refer-
enced the same transformative fairy
tale Phillips had, writ-
ing about how she’d
loved “The Ugly Duck-
ling” when she was
a child, “because I
was an ugly duckling
and, with the incor-
rigible optimism and
blind hope of extreme
youth, dreamed of the
day when I too would
become a beautiful
swan.” Unlike Phillips,
she didn’t emphasize
changing her life, just
her looks. Her ulti-
mate goal: She want-
ed her appearance to
match her inner self.
“My soul fairly glit-
ters,” she wrote, “and
yet I am hastily passed
by for the glamour
girls who know how to
make the most of their
looks.”
As the contest win-
ner, Foutz got six
weeks in New York City
and makeover treat-
ments that included
plastic surgery and
speech lessons, along
with a new hairstyle,
makeup, and a whole
new wardrobe. When
she returned home, her little brother
didn’t recognize her. “Hoping they
were returning my sister,” he recalls,
“I was disappointed as one of the
most beautiful women I had ever seen
stepped out of the car.”
Unlike Phillips, Foutz kept her new
look and the show-business ambi-
tions it furthered. She worked a while
as a radio and TV host, then went on
to become a magazine writer and a
ghostwriter for celebrity memoirs.
She married a screenwriter and lived
in Hollywood and New York City. “My
great-grandfather went west in 1847
to change the map,” she said of her
makeover. “I’ve come east in 1938 to
change my map.” It worked. In Foutz’s
case, the “ugly duckling” really was a
swan inside. ◆
Essay
In her 1938 makeover, Foutz went from before (top) to after (bottom) with the aid of a plastic surgeon and stylists.
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Skin
Ray of LightBrown spots? Bzzz. Unwanted hair? Zap. Lasers are more effective
than ever—for nearly every skin issue under the sun. By Joan Kron
In the beauty world, only
one person provokes a big-
ger fight-or-flight reaction
than Johnny Scissor happy,
the hairstylist who strongly
suggests cutting ten inches
off your shoulder-length
hair—and that person is
Elena Zapitoff, the spa aes-
thetician who insists you would look a
whole lot better after a series of laser
treatments on your face. Thirty years
ago, when resurfacing lasers first
entered the realm of dermatology with
all the promise of a science-fiction
breakthrough, high expectations led
to mild disappointment. Doctors had
figured out how to direct a beam of
intense light at the skin to burn off the
top layer, allowing new skin to grow
in its place. But the first devices could
literally be a pain for patients, who
might end up with beautiful results but
only after what looked like a months-
long sunburn. For those with dark
skin, lasers were risky at best.
But since then, the technology—and
the results—have improved tremen-
dously, making lasers one of dermatolo-
gy’s most valued tools. “Lasers have rev-
olutionized what we can do for the aging
face,” says Jeffrey Dover, an associate
clinical professor of dermatology at
Yale School of Medicine. Dover himself
has dozens of the devices in his office
for erasing brown spots, fading lines
and wrinkles, smoothing rough skin,
removing unwanted hair, and deleting
that “Mon Amour” tattoo on a patient’s
wrist long after her love affair has died.
The field of laser medicine is more com-
plicated than ever, and so are the con-
cerns of patients about which device is
right for them, the cost of a laser treat-
ment, and how much it is likely to hurt.
We’ve rounded up the experts to answer
all of these questions and more.
Some lasers leave you red for a few hours; others, for a few weeks.
150 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
NIC
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How does a laser work? Unlike the
white light from a bulb that is a blend
of all the colors of the rainbow, a laser
is a focused beam of light that has
just one color. When its intense rays
target a problem area on the skin (a
brown spot, a scar, an unwanted hair
follicle), the laser’s light can destroy
that pigment or tissue while sparing
the skin around it.
Will doctors or spas suggest a par-
ticular laser just because they hap-
pen to have it? Sadly, yes. “If all they
have is one device, that’s what they
will offer,” says Dover, who practices
in Boston. “This is why you want to
go to people with multiple devices,”
advises Jason N. Pozner, a plastic sur-
geon in Boca Raton, Florida, who has
a large laser practice.
So how do I know if a doctor is using
the right laser for me? Ask a lot of
questions: What is your training?
How many patients have you treated
with my particular problem? What
are the risks and complications? Can
I see pictures —and are these yours,
or are they from the laser manufac-
turer? “If you have broken blood ves-
sels, you want a doctor who has done
scores of those procedures,” says
Dover. It’s not just a matter of how
many lasers you own, he says—it’s a
question of experience and skill with
those lasers. “It boils down to trust.”
Do I need to ask for the laser I need
by name? No, you don’t—and don’t
consider it. You may be tempted
to ask for the same treatment your
friend had, and your doctor may give
it to you rather than risk you walking
out the door. But leave that decision
Why are there so many different lasers? Just as a cook has many utensils, doctors have different
lasers for different skin problems. “A good laser physician should have three or four to treat a broad range
of problems,” says Dieter Manstein, an instructor in dermatology at Harvard Medical School and coinventor of
the fractional laser. There are lasers with different wavelengths, pulse duration, and energy for hair removal, skin resurfacing, blood-vessel treatments, brown spots,
redness, and tattoos (see “Type Casting,” page 154).
Recovery and ResultsWhat the healing process really looks like.
In a single treatment, dermatologist Robert Anolik used a Gemini laser to fade discoloration caused by broken capillaries and a Vbeam laser for ruddiness. “It didn’t sting, except a little around my nose,” says the patient.
With topical anesthetic, dermatologist Diane Berson resurfaced the patient’s face with a fractional laser. “It felt like a bad windburn,” she says. After a week, “I looked younger, my pores were smaller, and makeup went on more uniformly.”
“Between sun damage and pregnancy, my freckles had darkened, especially one on my right cheek,” says the patient. Dermatologist Brian Biesman treated her with a Q-switched alexandrite laser. By day 9, the darkest spots had sloughed off.
Reducing Redness
Whole-Face Resurfacing
Brown Spots
Before treatmentImmediately after treatment Day 2 Day 4 Day 8
Before treatmentImmediately after treatment Day 2 Day 6 Day 8
Before treatmentImmediately after treatment Day 3 Day 6 Day 9
152 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
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Skin
to a professional. “You need a doctor
who understands what she is looking
at, who prescribes the best treatment,
and who knows how to administer
that treatment,” says Brian Biesman,
a clinical assistant professor in oph-
thalmology, otolaryngology, and der-
matology at Vanderbilt University
Medical Center in Nashville.
Can you be too young for lasers?
Or too old? It’s a matter of the prob-
lem you want to fix, not your age,
says Tina Alster, a clinical profes-
sor of dermatology at Georgetown
University Medical Center in Wash-
ington, D.C. “Lots of young people
have rosacea, acne, sun spots, and
sun damage, and these conditions
are all treatable. We treat infants
with birthmarks who are only days
old,” she says. Still, less-intensive
therapies, such as chemical peels
or facials, may be enough to repair
young, relatively healthy skin.
What’s a Fraxel? Fraxel is a brand
name and common shorthand for
a whole class of lasers used for skin
resurfacing, which is another word
for smoothing rough patches, flatten-
ing wrinkles, and removing pigments
and scar tissue. The name comes from
the word “fractional,” which refers
to the way the devices deliver light.
Instead of a solid beam, they bom-
bard the target area with a polka-dot
pattern that damages less tissue and
speeds recovery. There are different
fractional lasers for a range of differ-
ent problems, from heavy-duty sun
damage to stretch marks.
How about Thermage and Ulthera—
are they lasers, too? Lots of devices
are mistakenly referred to as lasers
even though they technically aren’t.
Thermage uses radio-frequency
waves to generate heat that stimu-
lates new collagen and tightens the
skin. Ulthera uses another form of
energy, ultrasound, for somewhat
similar results. It’s FDA-approved
to lift sagging skin on the neck and
brow and under the chin. Cold tem-
peratures are also used cosmetically,
in CoolSculpting (a.k.a. Zeltiq), a
device that clamps onto the skin,
shrinking the fat layers underneath.
And Intense Pulsed Light, or IPL, is
polychromatic light, meaning each
beam contains a rainbow of col-
ors that doctors use to zap red and
brown spots and even out skin tone.
Microwaves are the latest entry into
the category, says Robert Anolik, a
clinical assistant professor of derma-
tology at Weill Cornell Medical Cen-
ter and New York University School
of Medicine. A new device called
MiraDry uses this form of energy to
destroy sweat glands in armpits.
How much do laser treatments
cost? That’s like asking, “How much
is a cashmere sweater?” You can find
one at Uniqlo for $49 and at Chanel
for $1,000. Prices vary widely.
How should I prepare for a laser session?
“If you’re having medium or deep skin resurfacing with
a fractional laser, you should stop using glycolic and
salicylic acid creams, retinoids, and hydroquinone a week
before treatment,” says Diane Berson, an associate clinical
professor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of
Cornell University. They can irritate the skin. “But don’t
stop sun protection.” If you take aspirin (which can
worsen bleeding) or other medications, make sure
your doctor knows in advance.
Type Casting The laser breakdown:
Fractional lasersTreat: Large pores, wrinkles, blotchiness, melasma, acne scars, sagging skinResults: Smoother skin, brighter skin tone, and smaller pores and wrinkles. Substantial improvement of most problems is seen after three or four treatments.Recovery: From four hours of pinkness after light treatments to weeks of swelling, scabs, and peeling skin after heavy treatmentsPrice: $300 to $5,000 per treatmentAvoid: If you have severe eczema, a skin infection in the area, or a deep tanFeels like: Warm prickles if the laser is mild. Numbing cream and painkiller
injections are given for the more powerful lasers.
Lasers for brown spotsTreat: Brown sun damage Results: Some spots disappear entirely after one to three treatments.Recovery: Spots turn darker brown for about a week, then fade or disappear. Price: $400 to $900 per treatment per area (face, hands, arms, legs)Avoid: If you have dark skin or a tan (even a spray tan)Feels like: A hot pinprick
Lasers for red veins and red spotsTreat: Facial redness and red blood vessels, including minor veins on legsResults: Up to 90 percent of redness can fade after three treatments, with less fading for leg veins.
Recovery: Redness and swelling can last several hours or days, with occasional bruising.Price: $400 to $1,000 Avoid: If you have dark skin or a tan (even a spray tan)Feels like: A pinprick with slight burning
Lasers for hair removalTreat: Unwanted hair on the face and bodyResults: Good to excellent after six treatments for face, legs, or arms and three to six for underarms and bikini area. (Each session reduces hair regrowth by about 20 percent.)Recovery: Redness for a few hours to a few days and occasional red bumpsPrice: $75 (upper lip) and $600 to $1,200 (legs)Avoid: If you have blonde or white hair. Patients with dark skin can be treated
with the long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser.Feels like: A pinprick, except on sensitive areas such as above the lips and on the chin, underarms, and bikini area, which may require a numbing cream
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) devices Treat: Freckles, sun spots, and rosacea on the face, neck, and chest. Not effective for melasma.Results: Subtle, gradual fading of discoloration and brighter skin tone after three to five treatmentsRecovery: Redness on the day of treatment. Brown spots will darken before fading within a week.Price: $400 to $900; may be discounted as a seriesAvoid: If you have dark skin or a tanFeels like: A rubber-band snap
154 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
Do lasers hurt? They certainly can.
Many laser treatments don’t require
numbing beforehand, but for deep
resurfacing, “we can use a topical
anesthetic or a combination of topical
and pain injections plus anxiety drugs
such as Ativan or Valium,” says Bies-
man. The only time he recommends
monitored sedation—a short-acting
IV anesthetic that puts a patient to
sleep—is for some forms of abla-
tive resurfacing, in which the laser
removes skin and can cause bleeding.
My doctor has suggested more
than one laser for different prob-
lems. Can I have them all at once?
Certain laser treatments are fine to
tackle in one appointment, but many
need a return visit. Skin tightening
and treatment for rosacea, each of
which requires a different laser, can
be done one right after the other. But
hair and tattoo removal from the same
area can lead to scars, says Biesman.
Should I have moles removed with
a laser? No. Since any mole has the
potential to become malignant, each
one should be examined by a doctor,
who may remove it with a scalpel and
send it to a pathologist to rule out
cancer, according to Biesman.
Do I need to stay out of the sun if
I’m getting a laser? It’s not a good
idea to be treated if you’re tan, even
if it’s a spray tan, says Eric Bernstein,
a clinical professor of dermatology at
the University of Pennsylvania. “The
laser’s function is to destroy targets
like freckles and brown spots, blood
vessels, and tattoo pigment. But if the
whole body is tan or dark, the laser
mistakes it for the enemy—one big
brown spot.” If used improperly, the
treatment can cause irritation, blis-
ters, and discoloration. Still, certain
lasers can be adjusted for patients
with dark skin.
After treatment, how many days
before I can leave the house? You’ll
have to be the judge of that. Some
devices, such as IPL and the lightest
fractional laser, can result in only a
few hours of redness. But full-face
resurfacing with a Fraxel Re:Pair can
cause two to eight weeks of redness,
plus weeks of pinkness (which you
can cover with makeup).
How do I know that I really need a
laser instead of a chemical peel or
microdermabrasion? For pigment
problems, don’t rush to lasers until
you try less aggressive treatments. “A
chemical peel can get good results,
similar to a laser,” says Pozner. He
starts his patients on a skin-care
regimen, then a light chemical peel,
and then, for those with extensive
sun damage—or a big event in a few
months—a laser. “We look at skin
color and the patient’s ability to
take time off. If you can’t spare the
time, we do a lighter laser peel. But if
you’re in your 50s, we do something
more aggressive, well in advance of
a major social engagement.”
How long do the results last?
“Nothing lasts forever,” says Berson.
After a few fractional resurfacing
treatments, you may want a mainte-
nance session once a year or every
few years. “It depends on how much
sun damage you have.” Sticking
to a skin-care regimen, including
sun protection and a retinoid, will
reduce the damage and may elimi-
nate the need for future laser treat-
ments, she says. ◆
Do I need a dermatologist or can
any type of doctor do this effectively? There’s no such thing as a
board-certified laser operator, and legal requirements
vary drastically from state to state. In some, only a
doctor can fire a laser, while in others, nurses and
technicians can operate them. To make things more
complicated, any doctor can legally wield a laser, even
with no specific training. “I am allowed to deliver babies,
but I don’t do that,” says Dover. “Yet an ob-gyn can
treat you with a laser. Is that really someone you want
to see?” The onus is on you to find a doctor with extensive
laser experience.
Skin
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Hair loss in young women could be related to a lack of two key nutrients. A
study involving 80 women, ages 18 to 45, who were diagnosed with thinning
hair found that they had 51 percent lower iron levels and 78 percent lower
vitamin D levels, on average, than 40 women of similar ages who did not
have excessive hair loss. Iron is known to be involved in hair growth; optimal
vitamin D may slow aging in general and also activates key genes related to
the hair’s normal cycle of growth and shedding, explains lead study author Rania Abdel Hay,
an assistant professor of dermatology at Cairo University in Egypt. She recommends that
women with thinning hair take supplements, particularly if blood tests reveal that they are
below the cutoffs of 30 micrograms per liter for ferritin (iron stores) or 70 nanomoles per
liter for vitamin D. She advises against boosting vitamin D levels by increasing sun exposure,
which itself causes damage to hair (as well as to skin).
Popping a nonprescription pill may be a solution for thinning hair.
allure.com: For more on hair and diet,
visit allure.com/go/body.
BODY NEWSBy Kristin Sainani
A new lotion holds promise for
reversing gray hair. Researchers
in Europe previously showed
that hair turns white as we age
due to a buildup in hair follicles
of the bleaching chemical hydro-
gen peroxide. A similar process
occurs in the skin of people who
suffer from the irregular patches
of depigmentation known as vit-
iligo, the same researchers found.
When the scientists treated vit-
iligo patients with a proprietary
enzyme that breaks down hydro-
gen peroxide, it restored natural
color to the skin, eyelashes, and
eyebrows. Whether the cream will
also cure gray hair remains to be
tested, says Gerald Weissmann,
the editor of the journal that pub-
lished the study and a research
professor of medicine at New
York University. But, he predicts,
“now that the principle has been
established, other people will
jump into the field and develop
material that will work on hair.”
Which is better to do first:
improve diet or increase
exercise? Trick question:
Prioritizing both appears to
promote long-term success.
For a study, some volunteers
improved the quality of their
diet first, then increased
exercise four months later;
others did the opposite; and
a third group made both
changes at the same time.
After one year, only the
simultaneous group had
levels of physical activity
and intakes of saturated fat,
fruits, and vegetables that
met all national standards,
says Abby King, a professor
of medicine at the Stanford
Prevention Research Center
in Stanford, California.
However, if you must focus
on only one at a time, she
suggests starting with
exercise, as it was harder
for participants to make
workout changes after diet
overhauls than vice versa.
Body Goals
Cure for Grays
Hair StrengthenersA
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Know-It-Alls
Star Hair TipsBobby pins fall to the floor, ponytails droop, and
roots deflate —but they don’t have to. We asked top hair pros to share their tricks for mastering your
favorite styles without a hitch. You may never look at a bobby pin the same way again. By Catherine Q. O’NeillP
AT
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165
Master a
TopknotWhen hairstylist Mark Townsend started giving his celebrity
clients topknots, the style went viral (there are now more
than 200,000 topknot tutorials on YouTube). We went straight to
the source for a step-by-step guide.
Prep Townsend mists flexible-
hold hair spray on a flat brush and glides it through the hair. To reach the bottom
layers, he sprays the brush again, flips the head over, and
brushes the underside. “Women put the majority of
product on the top layer, but when you’re doing an updo,
all that hair on the bottom is exposed,” he says.
Position It’s called a topknot for a reason. Townsend flips
the hair over and gathers it into a ponytail at the
very top center of the head. He twists the ponytail
around the base, tucks the ends under, and slides
in bobby pins. If you have thin hair, use a styling
donut to add bulk. (Try the Conair Bun Maker.)
Perfect If you want a flawless
ballerina knot, mist a clean spooley brush
with hair spray and skim it over stray pieces
around the ears and neck so they lie flat. To
get a messy, windblown look, let down your bangs or free a few
loose hairs around your ears and face.
Clockwise from left: Jennifer Lawrence, Elizabeth Olsen, and Rachel McAdams—all wearing topknots styled by Townsend.
1Bumps: A bumpy ponytail can
look cool and beachy, but on
days when you want a smooth,
sleek style, place a flat nozzle
on your blow-dryer and blast the
strands at your hairline straight
back, using your fingers as a guide.
This helps the roots lie flat, says
hairstylist Guido.
2A droopy tail: By the time
you’ve finished looping your
ponytail through an elastic,
it’s fallen three inches. To
keep it in place, try a bungee, says
hairstylist Yann Varin. This kind of
elastic, with a hook on each end,
wraps around the base of your
ponytail, meaning you don’t have to
let it go until it’s totally secure.
3Pinhead: It’s a fact: The
sleeker your ponytail, the
smaller your head appears.
You can get volume without
sacrificing smoothness by creating
two ponytails. Section off four inch-
es of hair from the front and pull
the rest into a ponytail at the back
of your head. Tease the underside of
the top section, brush it back, and
tie it all together with a second elas-
tic. The results will look polished,
with just a hint of lift.
Ponytail PointersHairstylists offer three solutions to your
perennial ponytail problems.
Know-It-AllsVersace couture Spring 2012
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Know-It-Alls
Half and Half-ishThe problem with most half-up styles
is that they’re literally half up, leaving
a skimpy-looking portion down
below. A more flattering ratio is
30/70, says Hawkins. To get it, draw
a line from ear to ear over the top
of your head—like a headband. That
front section is your 30 percent.
Ears: Wrap face-framing pieces around a
curling wand to create ear-obscuring
fullness. You can also back-comb
the hairs surrounding the ears so they
appear to stick out less, says Hawkins.
Hairline:If you have a low hairline or a
widow’s peak, wear a deep side part.
“It opens up the eye area,” says
hairstylist Garren. To soften a big
forehead, leave layers loose in front.
Wide part: Shade in a wide part with a dusting of
Toppik Hair Building Fibers or brow
powder. Hairstylist Adir Abergel uses
an eye-shadow brush to blend it in.
You Want to Tie Your Hair Back But
Hate Your…
Three Things You Didn’t Know About Bobby Pins
!The bumpy side should always
touch your scalp. “It keeps the bobby pin from
sliding out,” says New York City hairstylist Nathaniel Hawkins.
“When I teach hairdressers that, it’s the biggest aha moment. Like
they’ve been driving on the wrong side of the road.”
Braids With A Twist
1Get low. French braids look
uptight when they are...up and
tight. Instead of starting flush
against your scalp, begin braiding
a few inches down, around (or even
past) your ears. This is the biggest
difference between a sexy, laid-back
look and a playground style.
2Beef up. Increase the size of
your braid by gently massag-
ing it between your thumbs and
forefingers, says hairstylist James
Pecis. Avoid pulling it apart, which
might be faster but can loosen short,
spiky layers from the braid.
3Tie knots. You’ve mastered
French braids, inside out braids,
and fishtail braids (very impres-
sive!), but the simplest and coolest
new technique involves a series of
basic knots. Take a small piece of
hair from one side of the head, divide
it in two, and tie it into a square knot
(like the first step in tying a shoe-
lace). Continue all the way across,
creating a chain-link effect as you go.
Secure with a small elastic. Pecis likes
to apply this technique to the back of
the head, the front hairline, or even
the top of the head for a unique twist.
Fashion editor Joanna Hillman in New York City
Pieces of fabric toughen up a long braid in Paris.
Model Tilda Lindstam tops her side braid with a headband.
Model Ruby Aldridge in Paris in 2012
A long, loose braid outside the Jil Sander show in Milan
Model Frida Gustavsson after a 2012 Valentino show in Paris
"There is such a thing as
a bad bobby pin. When the two legs of a
bobby pin cross over themselves, throw it
away. “That pin is damaged, and it will never work right,”
says Hawkins.
#Bobby pins hold up hair—they
don’t defy gravity. “If you insert the bobby pin
going down, hair will slide out of it,” says Hawkins. “You’ll create a more secure updo if your bobby pin points up.”
Goody Colour Collection Blonde bobby pin
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Know-It-Alls
Keep It Cool?\�oek�mWdj�je�^[Wj�kf"�oek�^Wl[�je�Yeeb�Zemd$�¼J^[�Z_\\[h[dY[�X[jm[[d�
a blowout that wilts and one that stays perky all night is how long
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a round brush, wrap it around the brush handle and roll it up toward
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into place with a flat curl clip—this keeps the bends and volume
intact. In an ideal world, you’d wear your hair set all the way to work after
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(not your bathroom, which is too warm and moist) should do the trick.
You might assume a red-carpet updo requires teasing, two dozen pins, and a
full can of hair spray. But those are actually the three things Adir Abergel
avoids. The hairstylist, who works with Jessica Biel, let us in on his secrets.
The Art of the Messy Updo
� He starts with volumizer. Abergel
sprays a liquid formula, like Oribe
Maximista Thickening Spray, on roots
(wet or dry) before blow-drying to
give them a piecey, windblown texture
that you can’t get from back-combing.
� He uses only two pins to hold hair
up. You heard that right: two. First,
Abergel curls the hair and spritzes it
with dry texturizing spray (try Rene
Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo) to
create grip. “When you have traction
in your roots, it gives the pins some-
thing to hold on to,” he says. Then
he uses large, U-shaped hairpins
to secure the updo (he loves Gloria
Haarpfeil pins).
� He rarely, if ever, uses hair spray.
After all that prep work, he doesn’t
need it. On the rare occasion he does,
Abergel sprays L’Oréal Paris Elnett
Satin Hairspray on a toothbrush to
clean up flyaways around the hairline
and temples. No matter how messy
the style, those areas should always
look neat, he says.
Jessica Biel at the Golden Globe Awards
TipOffset lots of
height up top with
loose pieces in
front. That will
keep hair looking
soft and sexy, not
rigid or sculpted.
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Know-It-Alls
Root lifter John Frieda
Luxurious Volume Root Booster
BEST FOR: Medium hair that needs a
slight boost
TO USE: Direct the spray where you want
to see liftoff (hint: the front, the crown, and the sides of your part), and blow-dry those areas up and
away from your scalp.
Rough-drying is almost always the first step in any hairstyle because it removes excess moisture and adds lift before you start. But it isn’t nearly as rough as you’d think. The correct way to start drying out:
1Once you’ve showered, flip your head over and
squeeze out any water from your midlengths
and ends with a towel. Things you should never
do with your towel: rub hair (it causes split
ends) or wrap it on top of your head (it flattens roots).
2If you have a cowlick, bangs, or other
potential problem areas, dry them
with a round brush and a blow-dryer right
away. If you don’t, move on to step three.
3With your head still flipped over, massage
your roots while blasting them with warm air
for several seconds. “You want to get the
roots up and off the head as fast as you can
for lift,” says Fugate.
4If you want a big, bouncy blowout, finger-
comb hair upward and follow with the dryer
pointed at a 45-degree angle. If you want a
sleek, sexy blowout, apply the same technique
but in a downward motion. Continue this process all
over until hair is 80 percent dry (just slightly wet—
enough to style with a round brush). You are now free
to finish your blowout.
Get Crafty
A Word on Rough-Drying
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert
has a knack for turning
uncommon objects
into unforgettable hair
accessories. She’s worked
with clay, gold leaf,
and, at one Givenchy show,
even pieces of Murano
chandeliers. She regularly
looks into her craft
box for inspiration—and
you should, too.
Leather stringGreat for tying your shoes—
or tying off a loose braid.
Wrap five to six inches
around the elastic several
times before securing in
a simple knot. “It takes
a hippie look and makes
it more sophisticated,”
Gilbert says.
Satin ribbonLittle bows are for little
girls. Instead, keep the bow
big and let the two loops
flop casually.
Black chiffonThe crepe-y texture creates
an interesting contrast
in hair. At Jason Wu,
Gilbert twined strips of
chiffon around braids
before pinning them back.
Vintage jewelryYou can attach any small
piece of jewelry to a
hairpin using a clear elastic
or floral wire, says Gilbert.
Dry-Shampoo Surprises
Dry shampoo sops up
oil and preserves
blowouts, but that’s just
the beginning. Here,
three uses you might
not have considered.
1. Get a grip.
Coat bobby pins before
slipping them into the
hair, says Townsend. It
gives them a rough,
matte texture so they
won’t budge.
2. Fake lift.
Spray it on roots and
mist the rest of the hair
with salt spray for
amazing, tease-free
volume, says hairstylist
Chris McMillan.
3. Add bulk.
Tousle dry shampoo
through midlengths or
on a ponytail to create
fullness, says hairstylist
Serge Normant.
The Big LeaguesWant bigger, lusher hair? (Is that even a question?) The four volumizers you need now:
Mousse Kérastase Mousse
Substantive
BEST FOR: Medium to thick hair
TO USE: Squeeze a baseball-size mound into the
palm of your hand and work it in from roots to
midlengths, avoiding the ends
(which can turn stiff and crispy).
Volumizing spray
Pantene Volume Touchable Volume
Hairspray
BEST FOR: Fine hair
TO USE: As much as you want to marinate in the stuff, the spray
is lightweight for a reason. Mist sparingly
over wet hair from roots to ends—if you
apply too much, you’ll weigh hair down.
Volumizing spray + gel Pantene Volume
Touchable Volume Hairspray and Kiehl’s
Strong-Hold Styling Gel
BEST FOR: Thick hair
TO USE: Heavy hair falls flat. Mix a drop
of gel with a few sprays of volumizer and
massage into roots. The volumizer dilutes the gel (so it doesn’t feel tacky) and adds lift.
Jason Wu Spring 2011
Rene Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo
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Nail Report
Polished
Get
Glossy black manicures, matching lacquer-and-lipstick
sets, the season’s sexiest shades—we tip off fall’s top nail news.
By Meirav Devash
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Nail Report
Finger on the Pulse
1Prep and clean nails just as you would for a manicure with regular nail polish.
2Pick (or snip) a sticker to fit ev-ery nail. If you can find a sticker match for every nail, good for you.
If you’re like the other 99 percent of the population, trim them. Pick a sticker that’s larger than your nail. Before apply-ing, cut away the excess from the sides using nail scissors and make the rounded end straighter or more curved depend-ing on the shape of your nail. If you don’t have time to trim, err on the small side, since a too-wide sticker will bunch.
3Don’t skip basecoat—it helps nail stickers adhere. “Press them on before the basecoat completely
dries, and it acts as a glue,” says Hipp.
4Warm the sticker slightly by rub-bing it between your fingers to make it more flexible.
5Anchor the round edge at the base of the cuticle. Holding the tip, stretch it over the entire nail.
Seal down the middle and perimeter with your fingers, and flatten any wrin-kles or bubbles with an orange stick.
6To remove the excess length, gently skim a nail file—downward only—over the tip of the nail. Saw-
ing from side to side can tear the wrap.
7You’re technically done. Feel free to rummage through your handbag with abandon.
8 But here’s why you really should consider a topcoat: It locks in shine, keeps the edges from peel-
ing, and generally makes a quickie mani look a whole lot more groomed.
Mastering Nail Stickers
They eliminate smudges and dings (yay) but bring new issues like
misaligned edges and air bubbles (boo). Manicurist Jenna Hipp explains
how to nail them on the first try. Top Fall ShadesSweet tooths beware. Roasted cherry,
buttery caramel, candy-shell red—fall’s sexiest nail-polish shades sound
as delicious as they look.
TipTo protect a
chipped or
splitting nail, use
a nail sticker as
a barrier while
it grows out.
First century
Roman women use scissors to keep nails
“short and pared.”
1600s to 1900s
Noble women of the Qing dynasty wear
six-inch talon-like nail guards inlaid with
gold, silver, and gems as status symbols. 1700s to 1800s
The pointy oval shape known as the filbert
is popular in England; Greek women affix
pistachio shells over their nails.
1856
In Madame Bovary, Gustave Flaubert
describes his protagonist’s
nails as “cleaner
than Dieppe ivory, and
cut almond-shape.”
1896
The House and Home, Volume 2 declares, “The pointed nail
is an abomination” and suggests
“rounding the tips.”
1942
The New York Times reports that long
“pre-war” nails have given way to short, oval ones that don’t “interfere with work.”
Sit in a manicurist’s chair and you’re asked to choose square or round, sometimes squoval. But what about filbert, almond, and duckbill? A look back at nails’ shifting shapes.
7
8
6
1
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1. Essie nail polish in For
the Twill of It. Upon close
inspection, it’s gray with
iridescent olive; at arm’s
length, it looks almost like
a black pearl.
2. CoverGirl Outlast Stay
Brilliant Nail Gloss in
Vio-Last. This glossy purple
somehow manages to look
both bright and deep.
3. Givenchy Nail Lacquer
in Rose d’Exception. This
dusky rose with a beige
tint is feminine without
looking girlish.
4. Dior Dior Vernis in
Trafalgar. Red is hotter
with an infusion of pink
and a wet-looking finish.
5. Rescue Beauty
Lounge in Cerise Noire.
As appealing on nails
as poached cherries over
ice cream.
6. OPI Nail Lacquer in
A-Piers to Be Tan. Turns out
a buttery caramel color
makes a gorgeous neutral
for medium to dark skin.
7. Revlon Nail Enamel in
Urban. The perfect follow-
up to summer’s sky
blues, it’s as versatile as
dark-rinse denim.
8. Prabal Gurung for
Sally Hansen in Loden
Green. Thanks to
brown undertones, this
army green polish is
sophisticated enough to
wear to the office.
Allergy-Free Tips
Manicure lovers who are
sensitive to the chemi-
cals in polish used to
have to settle for simple
buffing. But in recent
years, most nail companies have elimi-
nated the potentially irritating dibutyl
phthalate, formaldehyde, and toluene
from their their formulas (OPI, Essie, Sally
Hansen, and CoverGirl are all “three-
free”). Now Clinique is upping the ante
with A Different Nail Enamel, a new line
of polishes that, in addition to the usual
offenders, are also free of camphor,
formaldehyde resin, and fragrance. All
12 shades were tested by dermatologists
and ophthalmologists to guarantee that
even the most Sensitive Sally won’t ex-
perience redness around her nail bed af-
ter applying polish or break out in a rash
if she scratches her skin with a lacquered
fingertip. “All of the ingredients omit-
ted from the Clinique polishes can be
irritants, depending on their concentra-
tion,” says Donald Waldorf, a dermatolo-
gist who specializes in contact dermatitis.
“Not having them in the product mark-
edly reduces the chance of an allergic
reaction on both the skin around the
nails and, consequently, the eyelids.”
Pretty in PunkWith black nail polish, there’s a fine line between fashionable
and fashion victim. To de-goth, manicurist Elle suggests
keeping nails short, squoval, and shiny. “Matte topcoats are
major right now, but they make dark polish look
unsophisticated,” she says. Or try one of fall’s superdark
shades as a gateway black. Our favorites: CoverGirl
Stay Brilliant Nail Gloss in Wine Stain, L’Oréal Paris Colour
Riche Nail in After Hours, and OPI Nail Lacquer in Here
Today...Aragon Tomorrow. “Anything that’s almost black—like
navy blue or dark green—still looks edgy,” says Elle.
1965
Cher starts the square-nail trend when she
asks her manicurist, Minni Smith, for
“something different.”
1974
Nails are (still) square. Vogue warns of “hazards that can
easily ruin a manicure—dialing..., typing,
demonstrating a point at a board meeting.”
1985
Lee Pharmaceuticals introduces Press-On
Nails, which adhere to fingers with double-sided tape. Most are over one centimeter
long and have square or squoval tips.
1988
Florence Griffith Joyner sets two
Olympic records wearing long, curved, and graffiti-covered
acrylic talons.
1992
“Her nails upstaged her performance,” says screenwriter Ellen Shepard of
Barbra Streisand’s French manicure in The Prince of Tides.
1984
California manicurist Paula Gilmore
reportedly coins the term “squoval”
(a hybrid of square and oval).
The glossy black manicures backstage at Kenzo’s fall 2013 show
2
3
4
5
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��9^_ff[Z�feb_i^0 “Maybe you’re not actually a woman who occasionally gets arrested for streetwalking, but there’s just something skeevy
about chipped polish. It’s a warning sign: Something is not right here.”��<h[dY^�cWd_Ykh[0 “You’re a woman who spends lots and lots of time on herself. Maybe you’re familiar with lap dogs. And maybe you own purses just to carry them in. Or perhaps you’re a wealthy native of the Carpathian mountains in Eastern Europe. One thing you’re not is low maintenance. And that’s perfectly OK with us!”
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Men on ManicuresWe like nail art. But maybe—just maybe—some men think the edgier nail looks have jumped the (teeny, grinning cartoon) shark. We asked the editors of GQ to explain what men really think of some of the more popular, if questionable, nail effects around. Ȏ:7D?;BB;�F;H=7C;DJ
39% of women have
tried DIY nail art.
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Ever since Revlon
introduced “matching lips
and fingertips” in 1940,
the look has gone from
classy to tacky to simply
uncool. But new sets from
Giorgio Armani, Dior, and,
yes, Revlon give us reason
to reconsider the matchy-
matchy thing. “It evokes
a discipline and glamour
that we’ve lost over the
years,” says makeup artist
Linda Cantello. “Just don’t
match your manicure,
pedicure, and lipstick—
that’s a bit too uptight.”
Cantello’s favorite shade
for coordinating lips and
tips? A supersaturated red.
“The pairing looks wildly
sexy and pulled-together
at the same time.” Below,
some of our favorites.
Perfect Pairs
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1994
In Pulp Fiction, actress Uma Thurman
wears black-red on short, blunt nails,
launching a craze for Chanel Vamp.
1996
Manicurist Tom Bachik files stiletto
nails—long and tapered with pointed
tips—for a CND ad campaign.
2005
With a greater focus on health and
natural products, the squoval shape
gains popularity.
2010
Rihanna, Lady Gaga, and Fergie
are all spotted flexing razor-sharp
stiletto claws on the red carpet.
2011
Snooki pushes the duckbill shape (wide
and flared) at the MTV Europe Music Awards.
2013
Adele wears a nude, elongated almond-shaped manicure at
the Oscars. Manicurist Kimmie Kyees
describes the shape as “rocket ship” nails.
182 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
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By Ramona Emerson
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Health
Do It YourselfEven dentists who make their living
brightening smiles recommend the
at-home whiteners you can buy at the
drugstore. Here, the tricks to making the
most of DIY bleaching kits:
ʎ�Get a kit with 7 percent hydrogen
peroxide (or 22 percent carbamide
peroxide) that you leave on your teeth for
at least 15 minutes. Strips like Crest
3D White Intensive Professional Effects
Whitestrips and trays like Aqua Fresh
White Teeth Whitening System work
much better than pens. (The bleach from
pens is washed away by saliva.)
ʎ�Have your teeth cleaned before you
bleach—you want to whiten the enamel,
not the plaque. You should brush before
using strips or trays, and rinse really
well, since the fluoride in toothpaste can
prevent teeth from absorbing the bleach.
ʎ�Maintain your new smile by rinsing
your mouth with water after meals and
with a whitening mouthwash (such as
Colgate Optic White Mouthwash) twice a
day. Mouthwashes work better than
whitening toothpastes for this purpose,
according to one recent study.
When to Go ProNot everyone can whiten at home: If you’ve
got gray teeth, fake teeth, sensitive teeth,
or “my wedding is tomorrow” teeth, make
an appointment with a dentist.
ʎ�“If you have to take the ice out of drinks,
you shouldn’t do bleaching at home,” says
Jeff Golub-Evans, a New York City cosmetic
dentist. Sensitivity to cold means you’ll
probably be even more sensitive—if not in
real pain—after bleaching. A dentist or
technician can apply a protective coat of
wax to sensitive areas—fillings, receding
gums, and teeth that have been ground
down—so patients experience less pain.
ʎ�Whitening at home isn’t an option if you
have an event to go to, like, tonight. But
thanks to prescription-strength peroxide
(35 to 40 percent), a dentist can whiten
teeth in 45 minutes, says Golub-Evans.
ʎ�Veneers and ceramic replacements aren’t
affected by bleach, and bonded teeth can
only be restored to their original color.
But all of them can be polished to appear
brighter, says Jeffrey M. Cole, a former
president of the Academy of General
Dentistry. The same goes for gray teeth—
whiteners won’t work.
The next time you’re feeling frustrated by the indignities of a bleaching
tray—drool, how sexy!—consider this: Ancient Romans imported urine from
Portugal to whiten their teeth. A few millennia later, we’ll still do (pretty much)
anything for a beautiful smile. In a recent survey by the American Academy
of Cosmetic Dentistry, women said they were twice as likely to spend money
on improving the appearance of their teeth than making their wrinkles
disappear. From a fossing gizmo that trades string for a blast of vapor to
$100 shots of Botox that can reshape your smile, there are innovative new
ways to brighten up—none of which involve doing as the Romans did.
Great Whites
For basic health and sparkle, dentists recommend the following:
For sensitive teeth:Pearl Gentle White, $195
Strong whiteners can be a pain, but this FDA-cleared device uses a tiny ionic current
to boost the power of a relatively mild gel (6 percent hydrogen peroxide)—without increasing sensitivity. “You get the stain-lifting abilities of a much stronger bleach,” says Los Angeles cosmetic dentist Rene Dell’Acqua.
For those with no time:Crest 3D White 1 Hour Express, $54.99
The classic DIY whitening strip, Crest 3D now comes with a potent
gel (10 percent hydrogen peroxide) that you only have to wear once, for an hour. Period. The strips cling to teeth like a tight Band-Aid, with zero chance of slippage.
For the floss hater:Sonicare AirFloss, $90
Unlike the messy fire-hose approach of a Waterpik, this device uses bursts of water vapor (or mouthwash!) to blast away food
particles and plaque. “It’s great for gaps between teeth, where floss can actually push food down into the gums,” says New York City cosmetic dentist Emanuel Layliev.
For anyone and everyone with teeth:Sonicare FlexCare Platinum toothbrush, $199.99
Some of the scientists behind the Clarisonic skin-cleansing brush also helped develop this toothbrush with bristles that move at 31,000 strokes
per minute. The latest model has a tiny UV sanitizer to kill bacteria on the brush.
WA
LT
ER
CH
IN
TipMany dentists and
some home-whitening kits
use light, presumably
to accelerate the bleaching,
but there’s no definitive
evidence the light makes
a difference, says Gigi
Meinecke, a spokeswoman
for the Academy
of General Dentistry.
At home, go with
light-free strips or trays.
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The (Im)perfect Smile
What makes the perfect smile? Being Jessica Alba certainly helps. Dentists
told us their patients requested Alba’s smile more
than any other. “Her smile is beautiful but looks real —
it’s not too bright, not too big. The central teeth are
longest and all of them are somewhat rounded, which
looks feminine,” says Golub-Evans. There are four ingredients in the perfectly imperfect smile, according
to the experts. And if you’re so inclined, they’re
all available for a price.
Whitening toothpastes restore some of a smile’s innocence: With pol-
ishing agents like silica (Rembrandt Intense Stain Toothpaste) or
baking soda (Arm & Hammer Advanced White Toothpaste With Stain
Defense), they scrub stains from wine, coffee, and tea. (Some have
bleaching gel, but unless you brush for 20 minutes, you will rinse it
out before it goes to work.) Layliev suggests waiting 30 minutes after a meal before
brushing with a whitening paste, since chewing food leads to higher acidity in the
mouth. “That environment, combined with the polishers in whitening toothpastes, can
mean a lot of erosion,” he says. If you’re adamant about getting a snowier, not just shin-
ier, smile from a tube, try an optical whitening toothpaste, such as Luster Now Instant
Whitening Toothpaste. Instead of scrubbing the surface of the teeth, the toothpaste
deposits microscopic blue particles and polymers that give the illusion of whiteness.
A Mouthwash You Don’t Have to Hide
From the Italian toothpaste maker Marvis comes
an antiseptic mouthwash that looks great on the
shelf. Mouthwash Concentrate in Mint has
natural germ fighters xylitol and propolis. It tastes
like a scary-strong mint and is superconcentrated,
meaning the bottle is small enough to pass for eau
de parfum. Dilute before use, or you may regret it.
Why So Sensitive?The reason whitening can leave your mouth feeling beset by mini lightning bolts is that teeth are riddled with tiny channels that run from the surface to the nerves below. When you bleach, the acidity of the gel forces minerals out of the channels and puts pressure on the nerves. But the discomfort is temporary. Once the pH in the mouth returns to normal (usually within a day), minerals reenter the channels and the problem disappears. Fleeting or not, though, the pain can be avoided:
1Wear protection.
A toothpaste with
potassium nitrate,
like Sensodyne Full
Protection, shores up
the minerals in teeth
and decreases pressure
on the nerves, says
Cole. Golub-Evans
recommends brushing
with one for at least two
weeks before whitening
and before and after
each treatment.
2 Take your time.
We understand—
you want a
blinding smile now. But
skipping a day of
whitening when your
teeth are aching won’t
impede your progress.
“You’ll have the same
result—doing it faster
doesn’t make teeth
whiter,” says Cole.
People with sensitive
teeth shouldn’t use
at-home treatments
that promise results in
fewer than ten days.
3Hot and cold.
Peroxide gel
makes teeth
sensitive to extreme
temperature, especially
cold. Stay away from
chilled food and drinks
immediately after
whitening, says Cole.
4Obvious but
effective. If you
experience
steady, allover
throbbing, take two
ibuprofen 30 minutes
before your next
whitening session
(but not Tylenol, since
acetaminophen
isn’t as effective, says
Golub-Evans).
Whose smile is this?
Answer: Jessica AlbaHealth
Wide span: A woman with a dazzling smile
typically flashes 10 to 12 of her top teeth. For
those who don’t, Salzer uses
Invisalign braces to widen the top
row, bringing more of the back teeth into view.
Good gums: “Ideally, you see one
to two millimeters of pink above the top teeth, max,”
says Meinecke. For $100, a dentist can
inject Botox into muscles along the nose that lift the
lip. The result: more focus on teeth,
less on the gums.
Brushing Tip Wait 30 minutes after a meal
to brush, since acid from chewing food boosts erosion
of the enamel.
Tooth shape: “As teeth wear, they start to
look straight across. A little rounding with a drill can
make someone look years younger,” says Cole. The
contouring is harmless and costs $100 to $300, he says.
Color: A smile should be a little
whiter than the whites of the eyes, says New York City
orthodontist Jennifer Salzer. For teeth that don’t respond
to bleaching, veneers are a (pricey) alternative.
They cost $2,000 per tooth.
Optical Illusions
96%of adults think a smile
is key to attracting members of
the opposite sex.—American Academy
of Cosmetic Dentistry
Skin bleaching in Jamaica provokes sharp reactions from those who call
it dangerous —and those who defend it as self-expression. By Katherine Zoepf
Beyond the PalePhenomenon
Asania Williams moves like a girl
who is comfortable turning heads,
with her chin held high and a speed
and confidence to her strut in high-
heeled sandals. Thin yet curvy, with
delicate features, the 17-year-old
nursing student is very pretty by
any measure. Her hair, dyed fire-
engine red, and her eyes, rimmed
with false lashes and a thick band of black eyeliner, earn
her double takes on any Kingston street. But the most
striking thing about Williams is her complexion. Her
arms, legs, and stomach—visible between a tight, midriff-
revealing T-shirt and a miniskirt—are black, like those of
most Jamaican women of African descent, while the skin
on her face is an astonishing shade of yellowish white.
Williams, as she explains matter-of-factly, is one of a
growing number of Jamaican women who bleach their
skin with outlawed products. At least once a week, she
combines several expensive black-market bleaching
creams containing skin-lightening agents, including ste-
roids and high doses of hydroquinone. She slathers her
face with the concoction and endures about 20 minutes of
stinging pain before rinsing off the creams. The bleaching
agents strain her budget, Williams says, and their strong
odor sometimes leaves her eyes and sinuses burning for
hours after she’s washed them off.
But the results, Williams believes, are well worth the
discomfort: dramatically lighter facial skin that earns her
attention from men and the envy of her female friends.
As for the monetary costs, Williams would rather spend
what she has on the creams than on a luxury such as a cell
phone, and though she hasn’t been able to find work lately,
she says that she hopes her nursing course will allow her
to get a job as a home health aide someday, perhaps even in
the U.S. Occasionally she borrows money from friends to
Bleached skin is just one of the extreme looks that has come out of Jamaican dancehall culture.
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190 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
buy her bleaching creams, which can
cost as much as $10 U.S. for a small
tube (per capita income in Jamaica
is around $9,100 U.S. per year, but
many people live on much less).
“When me start, them see I get
pretty and then some of them start,
too,” Williams says of her friends’
attempts to copy her. She has been
bleaching her face for about five
years, she says, though when she
was younger she had to stop periodi-
cally when she was suspended from
school for using the illegal creams:
“Them teachers say, ‘You have to go
home!’ Not all of them notice, but
some of them, they see the differ-
ence between your natural color and
your new face.”
Closely linked to
Jamaican dancehall
culture, the cur-
rent skin-lighten-
ing craze emerged
about a decade ago,
locals say, though
K i n gs to n - b a s e d
dermatologist Neil
Persadsingh says he first started see-
ing patients with skin damaged by
bleaching products in the 1990s. No
figures are available on the percentage
of Jamaicans who lighten their skin,
but it’s nearly impossible to walk down
any of Kingston’s chaotic, trash-strewn
streets without encountering at least a
handful of bleachers, as they’re known
on the island. The bleachers are,
frankly, hard to miss: Like Williams,
some female bleachers also wear arti-
ficial eyelashes and heavy eyeliner,
which looks dramatic and slightly
spooky against their pale skin.
The bleachers stand out in other
ways, too. The dancehall aesthetic is
deliberately bold and highly sexual-
ized, and some skin bleachers cut
panels of fabric out of their already
skintight clothing in order to reveal
a maximum of bare flesh. Against a
backdrop of obvious poverty, with
chickens and feral dogs wandering
freely a few feet away, it is especially
jarring to encounter people dressed
and groomed so theatrically.
In recent years, the Jamaican gov-
ernment has been actively fighting
the skin-bleaching trend, trying to
crack down on wholesalers and retail-
ers of lightening formulas, and run-
ning public-health campaigns about
the dangers of the creams. They warn
of complications ranging from burns,
stretch marks, and acne to far more
serious conditions, like ochronosis, a
permanent thickening and bluish dis-
coloration of the skin, and even kidney
damage. Yet aggressive public-health
efforts—a 2007 campaign by Jamaica’s
Ministry of Health was called “Don’t
Kill the Skin”—have gone unheeded by
most bleachers, who say that the prac-
tice is increasing every year.
Vendors operate openly on the
streets in Kingston’s market districts,
selling bleaching concoctions in
clear plastic bags tied off with rubber
bands, as well as packaged creams with
names like Dermo Gel and Immediat
Claire. Even in winter, the afternoon
sun is scorching. Sandwiched between
produce vendors hawking fruit out of
open crates, most of the sellers squat
in front of lotions arranged on plas-
tic bags—an arrangement that makes
it easy to sweep their wares quickly
into a bag and rush away at the first
sight of approaching police. Though
the ban on skin-lightening products
is sporadically enforced, and the sell-
ers could lose days of earnings in the
event of a raid, the demand for bleach-
es makes this a risk worth taking.
As for the health dangers, derma-
tologist Persadsingh says that most
bleachers see no ill effects: “A lot of
people who bleach stop bleaching for
a while and then go back and bleach
and have no medical problems—just
like the majority of people who take
cocaine don’t have medical prob-
lems.” Yet he still strongly believes that
bleaching must be discouraged because
side effects, even if they are rare, can
indeed be serious, and because there’s
such a wide and utterly unregulated
array of products available. Jamaican
skin bleachers purchase their creams
on the black market—and they rare-
ly have any idea what’s in them, he
explains. Active ingredients may be
anything from turmeric, which has a
mild lightening effect and appears to
be harmless, to topical steroids, which
can cause hormonal imbalances and
terrible acne, and even mercury, which
in large quantities can damage organs.
Skin bleaching is practiced in many
countries, including the United States,
where bleaching supplies are legal
but highly regulated. In New York
City, lightening creams are available
at drugstores, ethnic beauty-supply
stores, and even supermarkets.
Jeanine B. Downie, a dermatolo-
gist in Montclair, New Jersey, and
coauthor of Beautiful Skin of Color:
A Comprehensive Guide to Asian,
Olive, and Dark Skin (HarperCol-
lins), says that skin lightening isn’t
an uncommon request among Ameri-
can patients seeking a dermatologist’s
care. “A major problem for skin of col-
or is uneven tone,” Downie says. She
does prescribe bleaching creams to
patients suffering from dark spots and
pigmentation problems. Creams con-
taining hydroquinone are “good, safe
products” to treat these conditions,
Downie says, if the percentage of
hydroquinone doesn’t exceed certain
levels. (Over-the-counter creams sold
in the United States may contain up to
2 percent hydroquinone, according to
government regulations, and creams
prescribed by doctors typically con-
tain 4 percent.) The Jamaican gov-
ernment, on the other hand, doesn’t
attempt to regulate creams contain-
ing hydroquinone, or any other skin-
bleaching agent, instead choosing to
ban them across the board.
Phenomenon
Lisa Hyper backstage at a concert in Nassau, Bahamas
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Any discussion
of the govern-
ment’s stand
against bleach-
ing inevitably
leads to a dis-
cussion of col-
orism, a legacy
of Jamaica’s
colonial past. As Christopher A. D.
Charles, a lecturer in the political
science department at the University
of the West Indies who has studied
skin bleaching, sees it, a decision to
lighten the skin, he says, is not com-
parable to a straight-haired woman’s
decision to get a perm or a curly-
haired woman’s decision to straight-
en her hair. “There are these benefits
to having light skin,” Charles ex-
plains. “You’re thought to be beau-
tiful, sexy, intelligent, handsome.
That’s why people do it. They see the
privileges that people with light skin
have, and they think, If I lighten my
skin, I’ll get these privileges, too.”
In colonial Jamaica, under British
rule, sexual relationships between
white colonists and black African slaves
were common. Unlike in the United
States, where anti-miscegenation laws
were on the books in many states
until the late 1960s, intermar-
riage between blacks and whites in
Jamaica following the end of slavery
remained possible. The children of
these unions, known as mulattoes,
were given some of the same pro-
tections and privileges as whites.
For Jamaicans, a lighter complexion
wasn’t an indirect marker of prestige,
as it still is in many parts of Asia, but
a very tangible and direct one. Even
today, according to Charles, many
Jamaican businesses prefer to hire
light-skinned employees as reception-
ists, sales clerks, and other positions
that involve customer interaction.
In view of all this, Charles devel-
oped a hypothesis that darker-
skinned Jamaicans might decide
to bleach their skin because of low
self-esteem. But when, as a graduate
student at the City University of New
York, he devised a study to test it—
offering a psychological test designed
to measure self-esteem to a group of
skin bleachers as well as to a group
of nonbleachers —his hypothesis
was disproved. “It turns out the skin
bleachers had the same self-esteem
as people who didn’t bleach,” Charles
says. “I was shocked. My professor
at the time was shocked. These were
people of the same social group,
roughly, with the same levels of edu-
cation. I tried to control for that.”
“In Jamaica, naturally lighter-
skinned people are traditionally
considered to be prettier,” Charles
continues. But among Jamaican skin
bleachers, appearing to have natu-
rally lighter skin is usually no longer
the goal. The desired look is almost
defiant in its artificiality, explains
Winnifred Brown-Glaude, an associate
professor of African-American stud-
ies and sociology at the College of
New Jersey, who has written about
bleaching. She notes that many
bleachers come from Jamaica’s work-
ing class: poor and naturally dark-
skinned women who were previously
powerless or overlooked. According
to Brown-Glaude, skin bleaching and
the rest of the dancehall aesthetic are
a way of claiming the right to be seen.
“These women were historically dis-
missed. Now you see them bleaching
their skin, using dark eyeliner, wear-
ing bleached blonde or hot pink wigs.
They’re saying, ‘Here I am! I am beau-
tiful, and you are going to see me.’ ”
Most skin bleachers we spoke with
seem to roll their eyes at discussions of
Caribbean history or self-esteem. They
insist that they weren’t uncomfortable
with the way they looked before. They
bleach, they say, because their friends
do it, and because it’s in style. Lotrecia
Porteous, 21, says that she’s been
bleaching her face, and sometimes her
arms and legs, for about three years,
though she’s had trouble affording
bleaching creams since she lost her job
selling ice cream. “I’ll do it as long as I
can maintain it financially,” she says.
Perched on a bar stool in a Kingston
pub, Porteous seems confused as to
why lightening the skin might seem
so fraught to an outsider, why it might
touch on questions of racial identity
not raised by other beauty practices.
“Identity?” Porteous repeats, in
puzzlement. She notes, instead, that
it’s become almost impossible for a
girl who doesn’t bleach her face to
find a boyfriend. The government
and the media look down on bleach-
ers, she says, but in her circle, she
can’t think of anyone who doesn’t
bleach at least occasionally.
Lisa Hyper, a well-known Jamaican
dancehall artist, recorded a hit song
called “Proud Ah Mi Bleaching” in
2009 after some of her fans asked
her for a song defending the practice.
“People will always judge and make
negative comments,” said Hyper, who
is 24. “The government and some
people may see bleaching as a deni-
al of who you are—that you bleach
because you’re an unhappy person.
But I do what makes me happy,” she
says proudly. Echoing just about
every woman who has ever been criti-
cized for changing her appearance,
she continues: “I bleach to please me.”
After all, Hyper points out,
Ja maicans are hardly the only women
in the world to experiment with their
skin color—even at considerable risk
to their own health. “I see it like tan-
ning. You have people who tan because
they think it gives them a nice look,
not because they’re in some kind of
denial,” she says. “Why can’t bleaching
be the same kind of thing?” ◆
Phenomenon
Natural-looking lighter skin is no longer the goal.
The desired look is almost defiant in its artificiality.
194 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
This isn’t a diet story about cutting back or learning to go without: New
science can teach us how to feel satisfied with less. By Patrick Rogers
Sonya Thomas isn’t
like the rest of us,
which is probably
a good thing. She
can consume large
amounts of food—
obscene amounts—
and still maintain a
steady weight of 100
pounds. But what attracts the attention
of scientists is this: Thomas, a profes-
sional eater, does not experience the
sensation of fullness that most of us
reach after a satisfying plate of, say,
salmon and snow peas—the sensation
that makes us stop eating. “A normal
person would feel like they were go-
ing to explode after ten hot dogs,”
says Louis Aronne, the director of the
Comprehensive Weight Control Pro-
gram at New York-Presbyterian/Weill
Cornell Medical Center, who discusses
Thomas in his medical lectures. “So
how does somebody fit 45 hot dogs
in her stomach”—Thomas’s world
record—“and not feel full?”
If scientists can understand why
Thomas can eat so much and never
fill up, they might be able to help the
rest of us fill up by eating less. What
we do know about fullness, or sati-
ety, as experts call it, is that it’s not
simply triggered by the amount we
eat—and that fact alone should fill
us with hope. If you’ve ever stuck
to a juice cleanse through the first
agonizing 12 hours, you know the
welcome realization that you’re gen-
uinely less hungry. How did this hap-
pen? Probably not by shrinking your
stomach, says Susan Roberts, a pro-
fessor of nutrition at Tufts University
in Boston and the author of The “I”
Diet (Workman). “Whether it’s physi-
cal or psychological, certainly some
people come back to me and say,
‘Oh, my God, it was easy. I’ve done
it. I’m fine.’ ” And when was the last
time you heard that anything about
changing your diet was easy?
Researchers such as Roberts are
beginning to unwind the knot of
chemical signals—plus external forces
as diverse as the time of day you eat
and the prices on a menu—that define
the point at which you fold your nap-
kin and get up from the table.
No More Hunger GamesDiet
Sequined bracelet by Badgley Mischka. Makeup colors: Intense I-Color Bold Nudes for Blues and Color + Care Liquid Lip Balm in Apple a Day by Almay.
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196 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
The process may
look something
like the trajectory
of the ball in a
pinball machine.
Fullness begins
with the sight and
smell of food,
which arouse
smell receptors in the mouth and call
up memories of past meals. Ding!
One bite, then another, travels from
the throat to the stomach, where sug-
ar prompts a spike in insulin—ding!—
and fat and other nutrients send hor-
mones racing to the hypothalamus,
the brain’s clearinghouse for satiety
signals. Stretch receptors fire when
the intestines fill up, and neurotrans-
mitters speed along the nerves, until
the joy of eating turns to discomfort.
Ding! Ding! Game over!
That’s how satiety works for chil-
dren, anyway. As we mature, cultural
cues, emotions, an urge for vari-
ety, and even force of habit—which
explains why the typical person eats
92 percent of what is on her plate,
regardless of portion size—begin to
play a part in setting our threshold
of satisfaction. The feeling of fullness
is so sensitive to outside influence,
says Dana Small, an associate profes-
sor of psychiatry at Yale University,
that people felt more sated drinking
a milkshake described to them as
“indulgent” than one they believed to
be “sensible,” even when both shakes
were identical, according to research
conducted in 2011. The “indulgent”
milkshakes also led to a greater drop
in bloodstream levels of ghrelin, a
hormone associated with hunger.
Fullness is not all in your mind,
of course—what you eat matters,
too. Fiber remains bulky as it passes
through the body, firing off more of
those stretch receptors and signaling
to the brain that satisfaction is at hand.
(Yet another reason to get on the kale
bandwagon.) Studies have proved that
eating protein early in the day pro-
longs a feeling of fullness and leads to
lower total calorie consumption.
Your sense of smell may also play
an important role. To illustrate that
point, for three months research-
ers in Bavaria fed volunteers yogurt
mixed with olive oil. The volunteers
had higher levels of serotonin, a neu-
rotransmitter associated with satiety,
and slightly reduced body fat than
participants in the study who ate
yogurt with other types of added fat.
No one is suggesting you add olive oil
to your Chobani, however. When the
scientists continued the experiment
by adding just the aroma of olive oil
to yogurt, the results were largely the
same. “We wanted to design a product
that gave you the effect of the fat with-
out having the fat itself,” says Malte
Rubach, a researcher at the German
Research Center for Food Chemistry.
While it’s too soon for the (Smells
Like the) Mediterranean Diet, the
study does suggest how significant
odor is in tripping the body’s satisfac-
tion switch, he says.
Resetting your fullness threshold
often feels like a battle of wills with
your taste buds. There’s a food term
from the nation of Georgia: shem-
omedjamo. Loosely translated, it
means “I accidentally ate the whole
thing.” We could use that word here,
too, since we have all seen a cheese
plate or a favorite dessert and
thought, I’m full, but I’m going to
have another piece anyway. Good
food continues to taste good, even
when the body has signaled “game
over,” and in the world we live in,
there is almost always food in front of
us, or nearby. The trick is to draw
both your brain and stomach into the
conversation, says Linda Craighead, a
professor of psychology at Emory
University in Atlanta and an advo-
cate of Buddhist-inspired mindful
eating. It won’t work if you say to
yourself, I can eat until I don’t want
any more, Craighead says. You will
simply eat too much. “Instead,” she
continues, “we need to eat until that
inner voice says, ‘You may not have
had as much food as you want, but
you’ve had enough. You’ll be OK if
you stop now.’ ” New studies of both
the head and the gut can help most
of us heed that sensible inner
voice—and we’re happy to leave the
competitive eating to others.
Wait a MinuteStudents who ate 25 percent of a typi-
cal serving of snack food were just as
satisfied as those who ate the whole
thing—but only 15 minutes later,
according to research published
recently in the journal Food Quality
and Preference. “Your stomach isn’t
counting the chips; it doesn’t have a
memory. It just knows you had a sat-
isfying amount,” says Brian Wansink,
a Cornell University professor of con-
sumer behavior and the author of the
forthcoming book Slim by Design:
Mindless Eating Solutions for
Everyday Life (HarperCollins), who
was involved in the study. This trick
won’t work if you’re staring at the
bag of chips. Tuck it away and write
an email, but get your mind off food.
Size MattersScientists have observed for years that
people seem hardwired to eat what’s
in front of them. In an experiment
that could have been dreamed up by
the producers of Candid Camera,
scientists at the University of Illinois
served soup in “bottomless” bowls
that could be refilled without the
knowledge of the volunteers who
ate from them. Diners with the trick
Diet
“Your stomach isn’t counting the chips; it doesn’t have a memory. It just knows you had a satisfying amount.”
198 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
bowls consumed an astonishing 72
percent more soup than those who
sat in front of a normal bowl. So save
your ten-inch soup bowls for holidays,
and choose modest ones for weekday
dinners. “All these studies show that if
you put food on a large plate, people
will eat more than if you put it on a
small plate,” says Roberts. The reason
has to do with a neurological response
to seeing the larger plate. “Your stom-
ach relaxes, your blood glucose drops,
and that actually makes you hungry
for the food.”
Variety Is The Spice
With food, having more often leads to
bad choices. People who were offered
three different shapes of pasta ate
14 percent more than those who had
access to, say, linguine alone, accord-
ing to one study. Another established
that the average person will eat more
M&Ms out of a bowl that contains sev-
eral different colors versus just one or
two. Don’t fight facts—use them, says
Roberts: “If you like cookies but are
trying to eat more vegetables, stock
up on lots of different vegetables and
just one kind of cookie.”
The Value Proposition
When you’re trying to eat well, snob-
bery isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
In one experiment conducted by
researchers at Stanford University
and the California Institute of
Technology, wine drinkers who were
told they were sipping a $90 vintage
showed a spike of activity in an area
of the prefrontal cortex known as the
brain’s “value center.” When the test
subjects, who were hooked up to MRI
machines, learned that another wine
cost just $10, brain activity dropped
off proportionately. (By now you
can probably guess that the scien-
tists made up the wine prices arbi-
trarily.) That principle can be put
to work, says David Kessler, a for-
mer commissioner of the Food and
Drug Administration and the author
of The End of Overeating: Taking
Control of the Insatiable American
Appetite (Rodale). Tell yourself that
processed foods, which can overload
and desensitize the brain’s pleasure
centers, are not only bad for you, but
also just bad. People who care about
food quality are more likely to con-
sume healthier meals that fill them
up sooner, suggests Kessler, who
acknowledges that the theory has not
been directly tested. “It’s what we did
to tobacco; we changed its acceptabil-
ity, and it became a negative,” he says.
Time It RightWhen you eat is just as important
as what you eat. Take breakfast: In a
study at Boston Children’s Hospital,
a protein-rich serving of eggs kept
test subjects full for considerably lon-
ger than a calorie-equivalent serving
of sweetened instant oatmeal; in the
five hours after the meal, the oatmeal
eaters consumed more than the egg
eaters by an astonishing 80 percent,
probably because of spikes in insulin
levels prompted by sugar. For his part,
Aronne suggests a breakfast of Greek
yogurt, cottage cheese with berries, a
protein shake, or an omelet made with
a whole egg plus egg whites. For lunch
or dinner, he recommends a meal with
lots of salad first, a serving of protein,
and then, when you’re partially full,
a small serving of high-fiber carbo-
hydrates, like quinoa, corn, or even
a slice of whole-wheat bread, since
eliminating those foods from your
diet completely can leave you craving
them more. Avoid starchy and sugary
foods, which cause the rapid fluctua-
tions in insulin levels that make you
hungry, says Craighead. Foods with
high fiber and water content —whole
fruits rather than juices, whole-grain
breads rather than crackers, as well as
soups and stews—help you fill up fast.
Sweet SpotA common type of sugar can have an
odd effect on the brain—namely, none
at all. Using MRIs, Yale scientists com-
pared the brain activity of people who
drank a solution of water and glu-
cose with others who drank fructose.
(Glucose can be found in bread, pasta,
and cereal; fructose, which is sweeter,
is in fruits and honey and is often
added to packaged foods.) In the first
group, activity slowed in the hypothal-
amus, where food satisfaction is pro-
cessed, and the volunteers reported
feeling full. Just the opposite was true
of the group who drank fructose: They
were still hungry, and their brains
remained as active as before. “It was
as if they were still seeking out food,”
says Kathleen Page, an assistant pro-
fessor of medicine at the University of
Southern California’s Keck School of
Medicine in Los Angeles.
Know YourselfPeople on the island of Okinawa have
an unusually long life span, and one
reason may be the common practice,
called hara hachi bu, of ending a
meal when you feel just 80 percent
full. Craighead, the advocate of
mindful eating, says most of us can’t
accurately gauge how much we’ve
eaten, but consciously aiming for
moderation may help to rewire our
fullness mechanisms. In a method
she calls appetite-awareness train-
ing, she suggests beginning each
meal by asking yourself how hun-
gry you are on a scale of one to five,
from “starving” to “stuffed.” Then
eat slowly, savoring each bite, talk-
ing about the food—how it tastes,
the effort that went into preparing
it—and keep a hand on your stomach
to feel for the first signs of expan-
sion. It can take 15 minutes or more
for blood-sugar changes to register
in the brain, she says, but the physi-
cal feeling of a larger stomach can
be felt much sooner. “Everybody
can tell when they feel stuffed, when
they’re completely full. We want to
get people to pay attention to when
they’re comfortably full,” she says.
When practiced regularly as part of a
healthy lifestyle, attentive eaters have
moderate success maintaining a sta-
ble weight and feeling less deprived,
according to several studies. ◆
Diet
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Directory
OUR STAR RATINGS: Poor Fair Good Great Practically Perfect Blew Us Away
Winning Streaks
We tested colorists from New York City to Los Angeles. Here, the highlights. Get more
recommendations for salons and spas across the country at allure.com/salon-spa-reviews.
September 2013 ʎ Hair Color
204 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
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New York CityIWbbo�>[hi^X[h][h� �:emdjemdDana Ionato
425 W. 14th St., 212-206-8700
It’s a simple request: Give
our medium brown hair a
boost. But too many colorists
respond by turning our shade
dark and inky, or light and
brassy. Not Ionato, a brunette
with an eye for natural color.
She mixed up a chestnut for-
mula and painted it on our
roots before squeezing it
through our ends—a cool trick
that distributes color while
also diffusing it, preventing a
flat, monotone effect. We
were out the door 40 minutes
later with the brunette shade
of our dreams. $175 and up.
IWbed�I9AMark Sweet
1845 Broadway, 212-265-1700
When you’re a brunette, get-
ting highlights is a lot like
gambling: There’s a fine line
between subtle golden streaks
and cheap coppery ones. But
Sweet leaves nothing to
chance. He placed slender
amber ribbons all around our
face and crown. The slivers of
light looked so natural, we felt
as though we’d won the hair-
color jackpot. Too bad our
revamped color didn’t cover
every gray. $285 and up.
BostonL_i[bb_�IWdjehe�IWbedTobey Van Orsdell
297 Newbury St.,
857-350-4856
Van Orsdell recommended
brightening our deep, dark
brown with dozens of caramel
highlights. But when the foils
came off, the streaks were
much lighter and chunkier
than we’d expected. To his
credit, Van Orsdell fixed the
hiccup with a toner that took
the blonde down a notch and
gave our hair a pretty, beachy
hue. $125 and up.
Washington, D.C.�?fiW�\eh�>W_hCaroline Weintzen
1629 Wisconsin Ave., NW,
202-338-4100
Weintzen listened patiently
while we bemoaned our
mousy brown shade and the
tendency for golden high-
lights to turn brassy on us.
That’s when she suggested
deepening our base, assur-
ing us the richer hue would
add oomph without oxidiz-
ing in the sun. She swiftly
applied a chestnut dye from
top to bottom. The new
shade covered up every lin-
gering hint of brass and
made our fine hair appear
fuller. $90.
Miami�8[Wkjo�IWbedi�e\�7c[h_YW�>W_h�IfWTimothy OÕLeary
7547 S.W. 88th St.,
305-663-9700
As a former colorist at the
posh Cutler South Beach,
O’Leary has a solid reputa-
tion for creating believable
highlights. So solid, in fact,
that we were willing to follow
him to his new salon, located
in the sprawling and not par-
ticularly sexy Dadeland Mall.
It turned out to be a good
move (on our part, anyway).
He first applied a base soft-
ener and a clarifying treat-
ment to brighten our natural
wheat color, then wove in
slender strips of gold. Our
effer vescent champagne
shade positively sparkled—
even under fluorescent lights.
$153 and up.
ChicagoIWbed�KTravis Ivan
2535 N. Lincoln Ave.,
773-327-2622
At heart we’re a natural
blonde, but try telling our
hair that. Keeping our dark
roots in check practically
qualifies as a full-time job.
Ivan suggested a warmer,
sandier tone with just a few
face-framing wisps of plati-
num to make regrowth less
@Wc[i�9ehX[jj�IjkZ_eJames Corbett, 25 W. 19th St., New York City, 212-388-1296
Corbett first gets to know his clients over a glass of wine from
his salonÕs generously stocked bar, then he prescribes hair
color. For us, he recommended an allover semipermanent dye
in deep espresso to cover our grays and add a healthy dose of
shine. He painted on the formula in broad strokes, somehow
re-creating the same glossy, blue-black sheen we had when we
were eight years old. Turns out Corbett knew us even better
than we thought. $150 and up.
The color bar at James Corbett Studio in New York City
Directory
allure.com: Get more recommendations for salons and spas across the country at allure.com/salon-spa-reviews.
September 2013 ʎ Hair Color
206 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
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noticeable and buy us time
between salon visits. Eight
weeks later, our color still
looks fresh and glossy. $151
and up.
Houston�9[hed�>W_h�IjkZ_eJames Fojt
1180-12 Uptown Park Blvd.,
713-892-8330
Fojt went to beauty school to
meet girls. “I never had more
dates in my life,” he said.
Small wonder: He got our
own heart racing by recom-
mending golden highlights
with lighter, blonder pieces
in front to bring out our eyes.
Following a sex-kitten blow-
out, we were ready to melt a
few hearts of our own. $265.
SeattleI[l[d�IWbedRichard Drews
600 Pine St., 206-903-1777
Drews politely rebuffed our
request for Gisele’s hair color,
warning us the honey hue
would zap the life from our
complexion. As a compro-
mise, he agreed to a richer
cognac tint on just the middle
and ends. The flickers of
warmth peeked through our
deep brown and looked sur-
prisingly natural. Being told
no never felt so good. $105
and up.
San FranciscoIWcco�Eb_l[h�IWbedMichael Madalinski
555 Sutter St., 415-402-0111
“I’m sick of ombré,” Madalin-
ski confessed as he examined
our faded blonde ends, per-
suading us to embrace our
natural chestnut instead. He
swept on a warm chocolate
dye, giving our ends a mocha-
latte tint. The decadent hue
infused our hair with more
shine than we’d ever thought
possible and made our pale
skin glow with health. $100
and up.
Los AngelesD_d[�P[he�Ed[�IWbedRiawna Capri
901 Westbourne Dr.,
West Hollywood, CA,
310-855-9099
We crave a touch of sun-
kissed color as much as the
next Californian, but we told
Capri that we were tired of
our highlights always turn-
ing bright blonde outdoors,
lightening our natural medi-
um brown base. She offered
the ideal solution by paint-
ing on a deep auburn dye,
which darkened our existing
highl ights into warmer
threads of cinnamon and
copper. The results were so
stunning, we’ve been bask-
ing in compliments ever
since. $300 and up.
�9ebehbWX�J_[hhWiWbJuvencio Jimenez-Valdez
548 S. Spring St.,
213-537-0365
Jimenez-Valdez works from
home—a cool industrial
space that doubles as a hair
salon, which itself doubles as
an art gallery. Zeroing in on
the coppery remains of a
previous dye job, he pro-
posed single-process color
for a richer, more uniform
look. The burnished mid-
night hue had such intense
shine, our hair could have
doubled as a mirror. $125
and up.
�HWc_h[p�JhWd�IWbedJohnny Ramirez
8912 W. Olympic Blvd.,
Beverly Hills, 310-724-8167
Before scoring an appoint-
ment with Ramirez, potential
clients must fill out an exten-
sive questionnaire and submit
current photos of themselves,
as well as pictures of the look
they hope to achieve. Once we
landed in his chair (three
weeks later), Ramirez had
zero recollection of the
photos we’d sent. Even more
frustrating, our appointment
lasted a staggering five and a
half hours. The results, how-
ever, far outweighed the
annoyances. We left with the
most stunning, sun-drenched,
believable blonde shade we’d
ever received. $400 and up.
Reported by: Allure staff, New
York City; Nicole Boudreau,
Boston; Adrienne Wichard,
Washington, D.C.; Nikki Novo,
Miami; Nicole Pearl Kaplan,
Chicago; Holly Crawford,
Houston; Lisa Stasiulewicz,
Seattle; Cristina Mueller,
San Francisco; and Melissa
Magsaysay, Natalie Toren, and
Beth Whiffen, Los Angeles.
8kcXb[�WdZ�8kcXb[Zoe Wiepert, 146 E. 56th St., New York City, 212-521-6500
We gave Wiepert a tall (and slightly contradictory) order:
ÒBlonde but not too blonde, natural but also noticeable,
please.Ó She listened, then laid out her plan for us: highlights
in gold and champagne to echo our buttery base, followed
by extra-thin platinum threads for a cool surfer-girl vibe. The
gleaming, sun-drenched results were exactly what we wanted.
ÒGorgeous!Ó Wiepert gushed before we left, stealing the words
right out of our mouth. $250.
allure.com: Get more recommendations for salons and spas across the country at allure.com/salon-spa-reviews.
Zoe Wiepert brightens blonde hair with cool face-framing streaks at Bumble and Bumble in New York City.
Directory September 2013 ʎ Hair Color
Beauty&theBeat
Double TeethSeen in: Tokyo’s Harajuku districtThe look: Young people in Japan prize a smile with crooked teeth—a slightly awkward quality that they consider kawaii, or adorably cute. Now, women there are intentionally altering their smiles with prosthetic teeth—both temporary and permanent caps—to create the desired snaggletooth effect. There’s even a female pop trio, TYB48, whose members all have yaeba, or “double teeth.”The cost: Up to $390 per tooth
Camel HumpsSeen in: Upscale malls in DubaiThe look: It’s tough to be stylish when you’re draped in a black abaya. But women in the Arab Gulf have begun stuffing fake hair and sponges under their head scarves to create volume at the back of the head—the more, the better, apparently, since some “camel humps” stand a foot tall. While the look attracts attention, it also complies with Islamic tradition, which discourages the display of women’s hair in public.The cost: Depends on the materials used
Eyeball JewelrySeen in: Nightclubs in AmsterdamThe look: Partygoers in the Netherlands are having tiny platinum charms—in the shape of hearts, stars, and dollar signs—surgically implanted into the corneas of their eyes. A doctor uses specialized scissors to make a tiny pocket in the clear conjunctiva before slipping in the wafer-thin charm. Interested? You’ll have to fly to northern Europe; the procedure is not performed here—and is forbidden by law in Illinois.The cost: $1,100 and up
FacekinisSeen on: Crowded beaches in ChinaThe look: In a nation where women carry umbrellas and wear long gloves to shield themselves from the sun, a new form of SPF is all the rage in Qingdao: The “facekini,” a face mask with holes for the eyes, nose, and mouth. Dark skin is associated with peasants in China, and city dwellers are willing to go to great lengths to avoid it. “Does it look like I care what people think?” one facekini-wearing bather at the city’s No. 1 Beach told The
New York Times. “The tourists dress skimpy, but we locals know how to protect our skin.”The cost: $2.50 to $4
Puffy Under-EyesSeen in: Seoul, plastic-surgery capital of the worldThe look: Koreans consider the pillows of skin under the eyes to be hallmarks of youth and sincerity. The effect is caused by the contraction of a tiny muscle called the orbicularis oculi, which atrophies with age, but it can be enhanced with surgery: A doctor places cadaver tissue through incisions just below the lower lids to create more volume there. Love bands, as they are called, also give the illusion of larger eyes. Cosmetics stores sell temporary do-it-yourself taping kits. (Above: Beauty expert Michelle Phan imitates the look with makeup.)The cost: $1,600 for surgery; $26 for temporary kits
Mad, Mad WorldIt’s hard to stand out on a planet of
more than 7 billion people, but
we tip our hats to these contenders:
Unusual beauty trends from
around the globe. By Grace Clarke
A doctor places tissue through incisions just below the eyelids to create more volume there.
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Left, on Edita Vilkeviciute: Bra and panties by Chantal Thomass. Makeup colors: Eyeshadow in Trace and Rouge Coco Shine Lipshine in Scénario by Chanel. Right, on Candice Swanepoel: Tulle-cashmere-and-plastic dress by Valentin Yudashkin. Makeup colors: Cream Blush in Destiny and Rouge Allure Lip Colour in Rouge Noir by Chanel. These pages: Makeup, Tom Pecheux; hair, Orlando Pita of Orlo Salon; manicure, Gina Viviano of Mizu Salon. Prop stylist: Jack Flanagan. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Chocolate LipsWhy play around with timid neutrals? A chocolate
brown lip color is like a “tougher, more intense version of nude,” says Pecheux. A sheer, creamy
finish keeps it from looking brutish.
GET THE LOOK: Pecheux tapped the bullet directly onto the lips until he built up the color to the desired intensity (which, at home, is entirely
up to you). Other factors to consider: shadow (a wash of taupe) and mascara (lots of it).
Plum LipstickSpiked with a dash of burgundy and a hit of black,
plum lipstick becomes “sophisticated in a twisted kind of way,” says makeup artist Tom Pecheux.
GET THE LOOK: “A badass shade like this deserves to be strong and sharp,” says Pecheux, so
layer lipstick on top of a matching lip liner to keep it in place, and use a stiff brush to get precise lines.
Keep your eyes simple with black mascara and your skin looking fresh with highlighter.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO
Autumn Noir
Typical fall colors, like burnt orange and maple red, are nice if you’re
packing up to go leaf peeping in Vermont. Otherwise, yawn. These makeup shades are made for the
cooler, sexier, and more adventurous side of September. By Sophia Panych
Garnet EyesA deep metallic red sounds intense—and that’s exactly how it’s meant to look. “It’s rich and luxurious,” says makeup artist Pat McGrath.
GET THE LOOK: No need to be precise; no need to be precious. Sweep it all over lids, smudge on a ton of black pencil liner along the upper and lower lashes, and call it a (smoking-hot) night.
Emerald ShadowIf you have a few minutes to get all wing-y and artsy with your shadow, let us suggest a metallic green hue.
GET THE LOOK: Rim eyes in black pencil and add a dash of emerald shadow along the lower lashes at the outer corners. “Lining the entire eye can make it look smaller, but a splash of color beneath opens it up,” says Pecheux.
Left: Corset by Tamzin Lillywhite. Leather shoes by Christian Louboutin. Makeup colors: Illuminance Crème Shadow in Moonlit Jewels and Super Lustrous Lipstick in Honey Bare by Revlon. Right: Angora-blend sweater by Balmain. Bikini bottom by Eres. Makeup colors: Illuminance Crème Shadow in Va Va Va Bloom and Super Lustrous Lipstick in Nude Attitude by Revlon. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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Glossy LilacWhat shade of purple can you wear on eyes, cheeks, and lips? It’s not a trick question, or a recipe for crazy face—this purple is so glossy and silver-tinged, it works on every feature.
GET THE LOOK: A swipe of delicate lilac on the eyes and lips adds a faint flush of color. Vary the intensity—and opacity—by choosing an eye shadow that’s a touch darker than your lipstick.
Sheer TaupeOn eyes, cheeks, and lips, taupe (that’s brownish gray, to be exact) “has a surprising, understated sex appeal,” says Pecheux. That’s because it has the same undertones as skin. Naked skin.
GET THE LOOK: Dust a matte taupe powder under your cheekbones with an angled brush. Sweep the same shade across your lids in a winged shape. To keep things luminous, dab silver cream on the inner corners of your eyes and swipe on a sheer taupe lipstick. Choose a neutral color two shades deeper than your natural skin tone.
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Left: Bra and panties by Atsuko Kudo. Makeup colors: Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Surreal Skies and Pure Color Lipstick in Spiked Toffee by Estée Lauder. Right: Sable-fur dress by Burberry Prorsum. Makeup colors: Pure Color EyeShadow in Iridescent Violet and Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Beige by Estée Lauder. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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Violet LinerMetallic purple with flecks of purple
shimmer: Sound a bit like Prince, the makeup collection? Not when it’s worn smudged along
the upper lashes. “It’s so much more interesting than a black liner,” says Pecheux.
GET THE LOOK: Draw a thick line of violet across lids and blur the edges with your fingers.
Purple can swing both ways: A hybrid of red and blue, it accentuates both light and dark eye
colors and works with a nude or red-hot lipstick.
Turquoise StreaksWe’re no strangers to blue eyeliner. Navy,
cobalt, aqua—you name it, we’ve tried it. But this supersaturated turquoise is so fresh
and unexpected, even we’d never worn it before.
GET THE LOOK: Turquoise liner is bright and shocking on its own, and that’s a
good thing. Make it even more so by applying it in a thick, unapologetic swoop that
extends past the corner. Pecheux diffused the tip of the wing with a cotton swab.
Left: Swimsuit by Eres. Makeup colors: Ink It Eye Pencil in Aquamarine Ink and Queen Collection Lipcolor in Temptation by CoverGirl. Right: Wool top by Balenciaga. Bikini bottom by Mikoh Swimwear. Makeup colors: Shadow Pot in 340 and Blast Flipstick Lip Duo in Stunner by CoverGirl. Tattoo artist: Sara Antoinette Martin. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Whether it’s a dose of plum or a
swipe of sheer lilac, you can update
your lipstick palette and still
recognize yourself in the mirror.
1. CoverGirl Queen Collection Lipcolor in Fine Wine 2. L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Lipstick in 850 3. Clé de Peau Beauté Lipstick in 107
Lips
1 2 3218
Lively shadows—metallic cranberry! vivid
turquoise!—replace the usual
autumnal shades, but look just as polished.
1. Revlon PhotoReady Shadow in Muse 2. Estée Lauder Eyeshadow in Sterling Plums 3. M.A.C. Eyeshadow in Eat, Love 4. Shiseido Makeup Eye Color in GR 412 5. Sephora Eyeshadow in Violet Smoky 6. Maybelline New York Color Tattoo Cream Shadow in Tenacious Teal 7. Dior Diorshow Eyeshadow in Tweed 8. Nars Eye Shadow in Yamal
EYES
1 2 3 4
TH
IS P
AG
E A
ND
OP
PO
SIT
E P
AG
E:
RO
GE
R C
AB
EL
LO
Glint-y, dark, glossy—
there is a nail polish
to complement every
makeup look.
1. Chanel Le Vernis in Taboo 2. Jinsoon nail polish in Epidote 3. OPI Nail Lacquer in It’s All San Andreas’s Fault
Nails
1 2 3
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5 6 7 8
StylishHow to Be
Only fashion amateurs save
their best getups for going
out. The newest clothes for
fall are perfect for the office—
and chic enough to put
Saturday night to shame. By Elizabeth Siegel
This flinty gray coat acts more
like a dress—and it’s lightweight
enough that you can wear
it both inside and out for three
(maybe four) months a year,
depending on where you live.
Layer it over a sweater in the
winter or a short dress with
sleeves in the warmer months.
The color works with basically
any other solid shade.
The Coatdress
PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEBASTIAN KIM
If you want to look serious but not
severe, walk into a meeting wearing
an all-white outfit, especially one
in a luxurious fabric. Your safest
bets: a tailored wool jacket or fitted
cashmere sweater over straight-leg
wool pants or a pleated leather skirt.
Black boots add a level of cool.
The White Suit
221
Wool jacket, leather skirt and boots, and belt by Calvin Klein Collection. Gold plate ring by Laruicci. Rings by Jennifer Fisher. Lasting Finish by Kate Lipstick in 113 by Rimmel London. Opposite page: Cotton-blend coat by Marni. Leather shoes by Donna Karan New York. Gloves by Portolano Products. Pony-hair bag by Alexander Wang. Makeup colors: Eyes to Kill Eye Shadow in 8 and Lip Maestro in 202 by Giorgio Armani. These pages: Hair, Diego Da Silva; makeup, Yumi Mori; manicure, Tatyana Molot. Prop stylist: Lisa Gwilliam. Models: Nadja Bender, Jordan Stenmark, and Zac Stenmark. Fashion editor: Siobhan Bonnouvrier. Details, see Shopping Guide.
The Watch
A clutch at the office seems weird...and maybe a little walk of shame–y. But this one is so
simple and sophisticated, just think of it more like the world’s coolest briefcase.
The Clutch
Slim, grown-up, and
discreet, this stainless steel
watch is just as
sophisticated as the
season’s sharp clothing—
and won’t draw attention
away from it, either.
SHAPE Ladylike and classic—it’s inspired by vintage Chanel watches.
SILVER CHAIN Gutsy, plus it blends in with your bracelets.
FACE No numbers to mar the clean aesthetic. (Come on, you can tell time.)
Chanel stainless steel watch, $4,600, at Chanel stores.
“Shape and texture.” That’s
what you should look
for in your new fall heels,
says designer Brian
Atwood. “Fashion is so
minimal this fall, you want
pumps that make your
wardrobe pop.” According
to Atwood, there are
three things to look for.
The Pumps
CLASP Flat, so it won’t bang against your desk.
SOMETHING
CLEVER “The scalloped edge is unique, but clean. And because the toe isn’t too long, it flatters the foot.”
SLIM HEELS “Stilettos complement fall’s slim pants and skirts.”
CALF HAIR “The high shine makes the shoes work for the office or cocktails.”
SLATE GRAY The dark neutral looks especially smart with fall’s black, navy, and white clothes.
CLASP The gold piece gives
a little femininity to the utilitarian design.
FRONT POCKET Allows easy access to
slim items, like a smartphone or a mini tablet.
Chloé leather bag, $2,995, at Barneys New York stores.
Brian Atwood calf-hair heels, $865,
at Brian Atwood, N.Y.C. (212-415-4739).
DA
VID
CO
OK
The Wrap Skirt
Silk top, garbardine skirt, and leather satchel by Reed Krakoff. Gold-and-leather watch by Cartier. Makeup colors: The Eyeshadow in Desert and The Lipstick in True Monica by Dolce & Gabbana. Details, see Shopping Guide.
We’ve got two very good reasons for revisiting wrap
skirts: They’re sexy as hell, but completely office
appropriate. “A wrap skirt’s slit is suggestive, but it’s
covered up enough that it’s tasteful,” says designer Reed
Krakoff, who likes just-above-the-knee styles for work.
“When you take the shape of the classic wrap skirt and
make it in a body-hugging fabric with a monochromatic
outfit, you get something chic and new.” Tuck in a
soft blouse (you need a bit of volume for balance), add
black knee-high boots or heels, and you’re done.223
Viscose top and skirt, leather boots, and felt bag by Céline. Makeup colors: Photo Op Eye Shadow Trio in Cover Shoot and Be Legendary Lipstick in Cognac by Smashbox. Opposite page: Wool twill jacket and pants, silk top, and leather booties by Narciso Rodriguez. Crystal ring from Atelier Swarovski by Zaldy. Makeup colors: Warm Glow Natural Bronzer in Copper Glow and Lip Velvet lipstick in Pink Apricot by Burberry Beauty. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Button-downs tucked into pencil
skirts flatter exactly three
people. (And one of them just
gained a pound, so now it’s
down to two.) This pastel peach
skirt flares just below the knee, a
silhouette that’s elegant and
forgiving—a rare combination.
The structured shape and hint of
color call for a sleek sweater
(that means no cable knits) in a
neutral shade, like cream.
The Mash-up
The Suit“A loose-fitting jacket without a
collar or lapel makes a suit cooler,”
says designer Narciso Rodriguez,
adding, “Structured shoulders
are on trend for fall.” The strong
touch—call them shoulder pads
light—ensures the jacket is polished
and professional. Buttons are
optional: Rodriguez’s jacket doesn’t
have any, but it’s OK if yours
does. Just don’t fasten them all.
The finishing touches: a black
or cream silk blouse and slim pants
that taper at the ankles.
Tablet Extra: To watch a
behind-the-scenes
video with more
styling tips for
fall, download Allure
to your tablet.225
Show up to your next lunch in a deep
blue peacoat, and you’re going
to look commanding—just ask the navy.
The trick to looking like you’re not
actually a sea captain is to find a peacoat
that’s not too boxy, has a belted
waist and narrow sleeves, and isn’t
double breasted. The right one
looks particularly good with slim pants
and simple clutches; embellishments
are juvenile and just all wrong.
The Coat
Wool nylon coat, polypropylene elastane turtleneck, and wool-blend pants by Jil Sander. Faux-leather bag by Stella McCartney. Belt by Jutta Neumann New York. Makeup colors: 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Incognito and Rouge Dior lipstick in Grège by Dior. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Satin top and wool pants by Derek Lam. Gold bracelet by Chloé. Gold plate ring by Vita Fede. Makeup colors: Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Downtown Brown and SuperStay Lipcolor in Constant Toast by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.
You just know you’d never catch
this woman in a starchy cotton
button-down. Her blouses are pretty
and functional because they’re
slim, silky, and jibe with the rest of
the outfit. That means balancing
proportion—say, a fitted top with
wide-leg pants—and choosing
an understated color palette, which
is easy given fall’s monochromatic-
ish looks. And yes, three-quarter
sleeves are back—except that they
never really went away.
The Blouse
227
SIZE “The bottoms shouldn’t sit below the orbital bone. That’s when cat-eyes become comical.”
CAT-EYE FRAMES “They make your cheekbones look higher. But exaggerated cat-eyes are too retro. Ones with flat, tapered edges look modern.”
COLOR “Opaque frames contrast too much with your skin. Translucent deep black flatters blondes and brunettes.”
Linda Farrow glasses, $530 (lindafarrow.com).
You get one semiquirky accessory: cat-eye reading glasses. “But they’re not elongated,” says Tracy
Sedino, the marketing director at Linda Farrow. “They’re minimal with a little something special.”
The Glasses
1Stop using
jackets for
warmth. Their
function is to give
you swagger and
awesomeness. And
that awesomeness
comes from propping
a jacket on your
shoulders (pick one
with structured
shoulders and walk
a little slower, so it
doesn’t slide off and
make you look like a
tool). As far as you’re
concerned, it doesn’t
even have sleeves.
2Your feet
don’t get cold
anymore,
either. You wear
open toes in the
winter (OK, with
thick, completely
opaque tights). If
it’s snowing out, you
have permission to
wear boots, as long
as they’re leather
and look somewhat
equestrian. But not
Uggs, obviously.
3Carry every
handbag
as if it were
a clutch. Even if
there’s a shoulder
chain, don’t put it
on your shoulder.
Just trust us on this
one. (Handbags this
season are sleek and
minimalist, so this
is easier than you
think.) Your jacket
is taking up all of
the room on your
shoulders now,
anyway.
4Wear
sunglasses
everywhere—
especially when it’s
cloudy—except
the top of your head.
That’s way too
pedestrian. You know
what’s the opposite
of pedestrian?
Sunglasses that
could hide an Olsen
twin. The bigger the
frames and the
darker the lenses,
the better.
If you’ve ever longed to trade your
entire wardrobe for gray pantsuits
and white jackets and creamy coats
with big collars, we get it: We’re
obsessed with Scandal, too. The
show’s costume designer, Lyn
Paolo, reveals her secrets for mak-
ing Kerry Washington—sorry,
Olivia Pope—the most stylish glad-
iator in a suit.
Buy a large leather handbag, or
just borrow one for a few months.
“The first time I met Kerry was
at Warner Bros. Studio. She saw
my chocolate brown Prada hand-
bag and loved it, so she used it
in the pilot.”
Find one pair of gray trousers that
you love. “Olivia wears the same
classic Armani pants all the time,
and no one notices because we
switch up her tops. The pants are
high-waisted and wide-legged to
make her look taller. Ask your
tailor to hem your pants slightly
longer, wear them with heels, and all
of a sudden, you’re five seven instead
of five three.”
Then tuck in a silk blouse. Pref-
erably in white or cream. But soft
gray, soft pink, or soft pinkish
gray works, too. “Phillip Lim
makes beautiful blouses. And if
you stick to one color palette, it’s
easy to get dressed.”
Avoid excess like ruffles and
prints. “Simplicity is elegant. A
two-and-a-half-inch frill down the
front of a shirt is distracting.”
Oversize collars and big lapels
are mandatory. “If you’re petite,
like Kerry, strong shoulders give an
impression of confidence. Olivia’s
jackets at the moment are by Tom
Ford, Dior, Escada, and Armani.”
Slip on a long necklace—prefera-
bly with pearls—and a waist-
defining belt. “Ippolita and Wendy
Brigode make great necklaces—
they’re present but not flashy—to
wear over blouses. And try belts
from designers like Céline and Don-
na Karan over jackets. It gives a
strong silhouette.”
Olivia Pope, Fashion Idol
“Since clothes are sleeker this season, they look cool with hair and
makeup that’s a little rebellious—but still OK for work,” says Garren of the
Garren New York salon in New York City. Start with messy waves. All
you need is a large curling iron (hold it vertically, and twirl large sections of
hair around from ear height down) and a wide-tooth comb. “Running
a comb through the waves once or twice messes them up and makes them
look freer,” says Garren. The same relaxed approach applies to makeup.
“Defined brows and shimmery brown shadow make you look confident, in
a put-together and office-appropriate way,” says makeup artist
Fulvia Farolfi, who likes smudging dark brown along the upper lashes
with a sponge brush. Finish with lengthening mascara and a
sheer lipstick. “It’s flattering without being distracting,” says Farolfi.
Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Lipshine in Boy
How to Dress Like a Fashion Editor Because looking cooler than everyone else is their job.
The Hair and MakeupD
AV
ID C
OO
K
228
Tweed skirt suits used to be all old-school
elegance. Then Proenza Schouler designed this
one out of woven leather, and we fell in
love with uniforms all over again. Whether it’s
wool tweed or leather tweed, look for a black-
and-white twill or herringbone pattern, and
wear it with fitted black pants and a solid black
or white blouse. The most modern jackets are
short and have no lapels or visible buttons.
The Tweed
Woven-leather jacket and skirt, chain-embroidered top, and leather-and-rubber shoes by Proenza Schouler. Gloves by Gaspar Gloves. Makeup colors: Palette City Drive in Classy and Rouge Pur Couture lip stain in 25 by Yves Saint Laurent. Details, see Shopping Guide.
Chop ChopDon’t call it a cute pixie. The hottest/coolest
haircut of the season may be short, but it’s not exactly sweet. By Meirav Devash
PHOTOGRAPHED BY TOM MUNRO
Silk cardigan by Nina Ricci. Makeup colors: Artliner eyeliner in Noir, Blush Subtil in Sheer Amourose, and Rouge in Love lipstick in Sweet Embrace by Lancôme. These pages: Hair, Garren of the Garren New York salon; makeup, Gucci Westman; manicure, Gina Edwards. Models: Jessica Stam and Chris Folz. Prop stylist: Lisa Gwilliam. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.
This ingenue look works for every day and is “beyond easy to style,” says Garren.
While the hair was still wet, he spritzed it with Garren New York Designing Spray
Tonic and combed it against model Jessica Stam’s head “like a little cloche,” with
the bangs swished slightly to the side. Once the hair air-dried, he used his fingers to
rake a smoothing serum through from roots to tips, making it “casual and piecey.”
Modern Sweep THE LOOK
231
1Adding volume at the crown.
Two words: Kate Gosselin. “When
you puff up the back and flatten
the front like a little Texas bouf-
fant, it looks old-fashioned,” Garren says.
2Excessive blow-drying. Lazy
women, rejoice and hit snooze.
“It’s better to blow a short cut
around 50 percent dry, run a lit-
tle wax or serum through it, then let it air-
dry on its own,” Garren says. “That gives
it natural-looking lift.”
3Getting too slick. When a woman
uses heavy gel to comb her hair
back like Dracula, the results can
indeed be monstrous. For some
chic James Dean swagger, rake it back
with a pomade or wax—Garren likes Rene
Furterer Vegetal Styling Wax—“but not
slicked to the head,” he says. “Keep some
height at the top and the sides really tight.”
4Overworking it. Too many prod-
ucts, too much heat styling, and
too much time spent perfecting
your hair in the mirror can result
in a dorky Zack Morris helmet. Hairstylist
Matt Fugate, who also styles Stam’s hair,
suggests a breezy trick involving a dab of
wax rubbed vigorously between the hands
and a move we’ll call the arcade claw: Nestle
the fingertips into the hair in a pitchfork
formation, then pinch the fingers togeth-
er and pull hair up through the ends.
5Battling your bangs. Hair that’s
longer at the crown than on the
sides is one of the keys to short-
haircut harmony; it makes Garren
crazy to see bangs being tucked behind
the ears or pinned over to one side. “Why
did you get bangs if you don’t want them?
Enjoy them, then move on,” he says.
(They’ll grow out soon enough.)
5 Short-Hair Styling Mistakes to Avoid
Styling the latest cool-girl
hair is easy; mustering
the guts to chop it all off is
the tough part. Well,
that, and actually getting
the right cut. (If you
have springy curls, this
isn’t it. “If your hair is
kinky-curly or frizzy, you’ll
always be fighting with
it, unless you chemically
relax it,” Garren says.)
First, go to a stylist you
trust. Second, bring a
photo of the hair you want.
Then have these talking
points handy.
For thick, medium, or wavy hair:
If you have bulky hair like
Stam’s, ask for the exact
cut Garren gave her,
a boyish crop pointed at
the nape of the neck,
with slightly more length
at the sides and a top
layer that’s long at the
crown with lots of snipped
bits that arc from the
eyebrows downward.
For fine hair: More weight at the ends
will keep them from
looking fluffy. Tell your
stylist you’d like the top of
your hair long and full,
with a few angled layers
starting at the brows.
There are several reasons a woman
might hesitate to cut her hair
short—chief among them, acciden-
tally being called “sir” and getting
locked into the practical-enough-
for-a-PTA-meeting look day in, day
out. But the new crop that Garren
of the Garren New York salon in
New York City gave model Jessica
Stam solves these issues. It’s cool, feminine, and sexy,
for starters. Then there’s the versatility factor: “This
cut incorporates elements of a shaggy blunt bob with
long bangs; if you comb straight down, it’s a very strict-
looking layered bowl,” Garren says—but the point is that
you can lift, swoop, and even rough it up a little. “There
are endless ways to wear it.” These are our top three.
Keeping Trim
It’s no secret: Short
styles require
maintenance. Miss a
haircut appointment,
and you may
unwittingly end up
with a Pat Benatar shag
or a mullet. Fugate
advises a trim every
four weeks for short
hair; otherwise, it
will “get heavy, lose its
shape, and grow
into a mushroom.”
Deconstructing The Cut
232
Makeup colors: Infallible the Super Slim Liquid Eyeliner in Black, Visible Lift Color Lift Blush in Nude Lift, and Infallible lipstick in Refined Ruby by L’Oréal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide.
This rough, sexy iteration began with the air-dry method. Garren then elevated
the hair all over with a blast from a blow-dryer and rubbed wax between his
palms before using his fingertips to rake it through the hair, concentrating on
the ends. “That makes it fuller and messier,” he says. He finished by holding his
fingers at the scalp and spritzing just the roots with hair spray, leaving the base
supported and the ends falling naturally.
Muss, No FussTHE LOOK
Evening hair needn’t always be sleek or accessorized—these big, soft curls “tap into the
’80s look in a cool way while still looking grown-up,” says Garren, who used a half-inch
curling iron to curl one-inch sections of hair back toward the crown. He ran pomade
through the hair with his fingers “to get all the little separations in it,” and haphazardly
pulled some pieces forward. “Using your fingers gives it a cooler look,” he says.
Retro GlamourTHE LOOK
TipMousy medium brown
can make short hair look
blah. “Go for a bright
blonde or a deep, rich
brown,” says Fugate.
Off-white cashmere ribbed sweater by Balenciaga. Details, see Shopping Guide.
TO ADD TEXTURE TO FINE HAIR:
Kérastase Nutritive Sérum Oléo-Relax
“Instead of heavy pomade, use
this serum and your fingers. Raking it
through the roots leaves groove
marks, so you can see all the layers,”
says Garren.
L’Oréal Paris Elnett hair spray
Lift the roots with your fingers and
mist them lightly “for a touch
of volume all over,” says Garren.
TO TAME THICK HAIR:
OriginalMineral K-Gravel Texture Clay
“It’s got ground-up pumice in it, so it
has a ton of hold without looking
shiny or greasy,” says Fugate.
Evian spray
Stow one in your purse for touch-ups:
“If your hair gets too dry-looking
or puffy, mist and run your hands
through it to tone it down
a bit,” says Garren. “But this only works
if your hair isn’t frizzy.”
Mane Lines
235
236
Surprise SKIN SINS
Are juice fasts and Instagram binges bad for you? Yes—but not necessarily in the way you might think. By Jolene Edgar
Bad skin habits have always
reflected the culture and
values of the time. A decade
ago—before the dawn of
Instagram—our complex-
ions merely had to cope with
such misdeeds as overzeal-
ous scrubbing and skipping moisturizer:
How quaint. But modern life has ushered in
a whole new pack of bad skin habits. And
stealthy ones, at that. Who would’ve guessed
that going on a health kick, complete with a
juice cleanse and daily Bikram yoga, could
mess up your skin? But there’s no need to
panic. Dermatologists, sleep scientists, and
exercise experts have antidotes for your
(modern) skin-wrecking ways. Follow their
advice as though it were Miley’s Twitter feed.
1Staying Up With
Your Screen“Too wired to sleep” used to be a met-
aphor; these days, it’s simply a fact:
Ninety-five percent of us use elec-
tronics within the hour before bed
at least a few nights a week, accord-
ing to a National Sleep Foundation
survey. “This cuts into sleep time
and alters our circadian rhythms,”
says Phyllis C. Zee, the director
of the Sleep Disorders Center at
Northwestern Memorial Hospital in
Chicago. Exposure to bright screens
after sunset suppresses melatonin,
the hormone that influences our cir-
cadian rhythms and makes us sleepy.
And what matters is not only how
much you sleep, but when—and how
consistently. “Irregular sleep patterns
deprive you of deep sleep,” which is
when the brain releases growth hor-
mones needed for cellular repair, Zee
says. “And circadian disruption is
associated with higher inflammation;
decreased ability of tissue, including
skin, to use energy; and decreased
regeneration of tissues.” Any woman
worth her undereye concealer knows
that even just a few sleepless nights
can tank your looks. A new study
conducted by Estée Lauder found
that people who slept fewer than
five hours a night experienced more
water loss (indicating a compromised
skin barrier that can’t hold moisture)
and took longer to recover from sun-
burns than those who logged more
than seven hours a night.
GOOD BEHAVIOR: Instead of
attempting to swear off technology,
make it work for you. Download
the f.lux app, which automatically
adjusts the color of your screen to a
mellower, less blue tone in the eve-
ning. “Our internal clocks are less
sensitive to the warmer red range of
light, so this can definitely help,” says
Zee. When you lose sleep during the
week, don’t try to catch up by napping
the entire day away on weekends. Zee
recommends extending weekend rest
by two hours a day, tops. To offset the
barrier-depleting effects of sleep loss,
drink plenty of water daily, and apply
a night cream with ceramides and
humectants before bed.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLAS MOORE
TipEighty-nine
percent of people
say their skin
sufers when they
pull an all-nighter.
—allure.com poll
All those energy drinks could be making your skin look tired.
Makeup colors: ColorStay Eye Shadow in Goddess, Powder Blush in Softspoken Pink, and ColorStay Lipstick in Private Viewing by Revlon. Hair: Rita Marmor. Makeup: Brigitte Reiss-Andersen. Manicure: Elle. Prop stylist: Mary Howard Studio. Model: Brooklyn Decker. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.
238
2Overheated
WorkoutsExercise trends have gone from “Never
let ’em see you sweat” to “Harder, better,
faster, stronger” in what seems like a
heartbeat. But today’s extreme sweat is
often at least partly induced by outside
heat—like, say, a thermostat cranked
to 105 degrees Fahrenheit in a Bikram
shala or some Barre Method studios—
which has the potential to damage skin.
“Bodies packed in like sardines also
create a lot of heat,” says Traci D. Mitch-
ell, a personal trainer in Chicago. “Even
if your Spinning studio is 80 degrees,
your body is feeling close to triple dig-
its. The mirrors in my SoulCycle class
fog up completely.” A new study from
Avon found that exposing skin cells
to 107-degree temperatures generates
damaging free radicals. Recent research
also suggests that high heat can worsen
hyperpigmentation by stimulating
melanocytes, or pigment-producing
cells, says Jessica Wu, an assistant clini-
cal professor of dermatology at USC’s
Keck School of Medicine, who urges
melasma patients to avoid hot classes.
(Those with rosacea should already be
avoiding heat; it increases blood flow,
which can lead to a red face.)
GOOD BEHAVIOR: Bring a bottle of
mineral-water spray, like Evian Facial
Spray (the minerals are cooling), to
your next hot-yoga class. Mist your
face every ten minutes or so during
your workout to “cool off and dimin-
ish redness,” says Jeannette Graf, an
assistant clinical professor of derma-
tology at Mount Sinai Medical Center
in New York City. Immediately after-
ward, drink a glass of ice water to cool
your core, suggests Doris Day, a clini-
cal associate professor of dermatol-
ogy at NYU Langone Medical Center.
When you’re done, take a lukewarm—
not frigid—shower to lower your body
temperature gradually. Lightweight
serums, gels, or lotions with anti-
inflammatories, like green tea extract,
can help quell remaining redness (try
Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum).
Your Smartphone HabitImagine if your iPhone automatically “checked in” wherever it went:
It’s by the sink in the ladies’ room! Being tapped by your just-touched-the-
subway-pole fingers! And now…rubbing against your cheek. Ew.
A number of studies have looked at smartphones’ incredible germ-carrying
potential: In one, British researchers noted a bacterial count that
rivaled the average public toilet seat. Another, published in the Journal of
Applied Microbiology, found that 20 to 30 percent of viruses can be
transferred from fingertips to touchscreens. “All that dirt, oil, and bacteria
can quickly break you out,” says Joshua Zeichner, the director
of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Medical Center in
New York City, who sees cases of “smartphone acne” on either side of the
face, from the upper cheek to the jawline.
GOOD BEHAVIOR: The Violight UV Cell Phone Sanitizer is a favorite
of Ava Shamban, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology
at UCLA; it “uses UV light and ozone to fry bacteria in less than five
minutes,” she says. PhoneSoap, debuting this month, destroys
bacteria with UV light while simultaneously charging your device. And
antibacterial products made for electronics, like Wireless
Wipes and iKlenz Cleaner Solution, disinfect without harming delicate
screens. If the damage is done, apply a product containing
2 percent salicylic acid or 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide twice a day
(try Philosophy Clear Days Ahead Spot Treatment) to eradicate zits.
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The consequences of being glued to your smartphone aren’t always pretty.
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4Getting Juiced
One thing is certain: Fruits and veg-
etables are healthy. So subsisting on
their juices for a few days could
only be extra-healthy, right? Well,
the first problem with most over-
the-counter juices is that they’re
really high in sugar: BluePrint’s
P.A.M. juice has 45 grams, and
Organic Avenue’s Royal Red drink
contains 30 grams (a can of Coke
has 39 grams). When you drink
nothing but juice, explains Wu, “you
get a spike in blood sugar and insu-
lin, which can trigger a cascade of
hormonal effects, including elevat-
ed androgens, the acne-causing
male hormones.” This can affect
skin in as little as seven days. Sugar
molecules in the bloodstream can
also latch onto and degrade colla-
gen and elastin fibers in a process
called glycation, which leads to
wrinkles and sagging. “This doesn’t
translate to a 20-year-old suddenly
looking 90,” concedes David Bank,
an assistant clinical professor at
Columbia Presbyterian Medical
Center in New York City. “But her
skin won’t glow as it should, and it
may show early signs of aging, like
lines and loss of plumpness.” A sin-
gle cleanse won’t wreck you; routine
sugar fluctuations will.
GOOD BEHAVIOR: Keep cleanses
short (one to three days) and infre-
quent (every other month, max).
Look for low-sugar vegetable-based
blends (LizzyJays makes a green
juice with only two grams of sugar;
Urban Remedy has several with sev-
en). Or make your own in a Vitamix
blender, rather than a juicer, so
you get the benefits of fiber. (“It
can slow the absorption of sugar
into your system, so there’s less of
an insulin effect, and in turn, less
acne and glycation,” says Wu.) Start
with greens and add only enough
low-sugar fruit, like berries, melon,
or apple, to make the drink palat-
able, plus almond or cashew milk
for protein, suggests Graf. The skin
needs protein to build new collagen
and elastin, and nut-derived milks
are also rich in good fats—essential
for a healthy, hydrated skin barrier.
5UV Amnesia
UV rays are bad for your skin: Duh.
So why are so many young wom-
en making a beeline for them?
“Millennials are tanning in droves,”
notes Boston dermatologist Ranella
Hirsch. The majority of women who
tan indoors are 18 to 25 years old.
As a result, “we’re seeing enormous
numbers of very young women with
advanced melanomas,” she adds. In
the past 40 years, melanoma rates in
women 18 to 34 have jumped 800 per-
cent. That’s not a typo: 800 percent.
And 31 percent of Americans say
they never wear sunscreen, accord-
ing to a Consumer Reports National
Research Center poll. “They don’t
realize sun damage is cumulative,”
says Karyn Grossman, chief of der-
matology at St. John’s Medical Center
in Santa Monica. “Bake in your teens
and 20s, and you’ll increase your
cancer risk and start seeing little
lines and dark spots by 30.”
GOOD BEHAVIOR: Nobody’s say-
ing you have to permanently
embrace being pale (although por-
celain skin is a good look—just ask
Scarlett Johansson). Pretty much
everything we once hated about
self-tanners—the orange tint, the
smell, the streakiness—is a thing
of the past, now that products like
Jergens Natural Glow (and, if you’re
a millionaire, La Mer The Face and
Body Gradual Tan) are available.
And how hard is it, really, to use a
face cream with SPF 30 every morn-
ing? (L’Oréal Paris Youth Code is a
nice, indulgent one.) Consider the
payoff: In a new Australian study,
participants who applied broad-
spectrum sunscreen daily showed
no measurable increase in skin
aging at the end of the four-and-a-
half-year trial.
6Cocktail Hours
Indulging in alcohol isn’t exactly
a new problem—no doubt there are
papyri buried somewhere showing
tiny figures stumbling and waving
as they walk like Egyptians. What’s
changed is how often we indulge.
According to a Gallup poll, nearly
half of white women are regular
drinkers. But all those (very) happy
hours can lead to (very) dry skin,
a sign of the number-one side effect
of excessive drinking: dehydration.
“When skin’s water level drops
below what’s optimal, it turns dull
and dusky,” says Bank. “And fine
lines become more evident when
skin isn’t plumped with moisture.”
A study in Skin Pharmacology and
Physiology also found that alcohol
decreases the concentration of
antioxidants in the skin, leaving it
more susceptible to sun damage
and premature aging. (No wonder
other studies have found that
drinking alcohol is associated with
an increased risk of sunburn and
melanoma.) Then there’s the fact
that alcohol is a vasodilator,
meaning it aggravates rosacea.
Oh, and cocktails with added sugar
can cause the same acne and
glycation we mentioned earlier.
GOOD BEHAVIOR: Did all of the
above make you feel like you could
really use a drink? Well, no one’s
going to tell you you can’t have one.
Just try to keep it to one when
possible, and choose wisely at the
bar, especially if you’re prone to
flushing or pimples. “Not all alcohol
is sugar,” notes Wu. “It contains
varying amounts of carbohydrates,
depending on the drink, but alcohol
alone won’t raise your blood-
glucose level.” It’s the sweet tonic
in your G&T you need to watch
out for. Wu orders mojitos made
with club soda and only half
the usual sugar syrup. And try to
follow each drink with a glass
of water to curb dehydration.
LEATHER SLIT SKIRT
Leather skirt and top, leather-and-mink shoes, leather bag, and sunglasses by Fendi. Necklace by Laruicci. Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Damask by Laura Mercier. These pages: Hair, Teddy Charles; makeup, Fulvia Farolfi; manicure, Sheril Bailey. Prop stylist: Todd Wiggins of the Mary Howard Studio. Models: Julia Frauche and Chris Whelan. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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VELVET JACKET
Velvet neoprene blazer and gloves by Emporio Armani. Viscose skirt by Oscar de la Renta. Fox- fur collar by Helen Yarmak. Makeup colors: Ink It eye pencil in Black Ink, Clean Glow Blusher in Roses, and Smoochies Lip Balm in Smooch by CoverGirl. Details, see Shopping Guide.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLAS MOORE
Hot Pursuits
Day looks for your darkest hour:
Plush wraps, power-hungry suits, slick
little shoes, and a good cover.
PERSIAN LAMB SUIT
Persian lamb jacket and skirt, goat-hair shawl, python clutch, and gloves by Gucci. Makeup colors: Infallible The Super Slim Liquid Eyeliner in Black, True Match Blush in Warm, and Colour Caresse Shine Stain in Eternally Nude by L’Oréal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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CUT-OUT FUR
Mink shawl, wool top and skirt, leather shoes, belt, silver necklace, and gloves by Michael Kors. Makeup colors: Luminizing Satin Eye Color in BK 915 and Lacquer Rouge lipstick in RD 215 by Shiseido Makeup. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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DEEP CUFFS
Wool twill jacket and skirt, leather shoes, and belt by Prada. Makeup colors: Mystikol Powdered Eyeliner in Onyx and Lipstick in Theresa by Jane Iredale. On him: Shirt and suit by Dior Homme. Leather shoes by Marc Jacobs. Tie by Calvin Klein. Details, see Shopping Guide.
PANELED SKIRT
Silk skirt and top by Sportmax. Fox-fur shawl by Vera Wang Collection. Gloves by Michael Kors. Crocodile clutch by Bottega Veneta. Belt by Jason Wu. Sunglasses by Fendi. Necklace by Chanel. Beautiful Color Moisturizing Lipstick in Beauty by Elizabeth Arden. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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OPEN JACKET
Wool jacket and skirt, python shoes, and fox-fur stole by Marc Jacobs. Crocodile-and-mink bag by Louis Vuitton. Makeup colors: Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Black Mystery and Color Whisper lipstick in Made-It Mauve by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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Wool felt coat, Shetland wool vest, leather skirt, belt, and silk-satin-and-leather shoes by Prada. Bra by Calvin Klein. MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Soft Raspberry by Neutrogena. These pages: Hair, Peter Gray; makeup, Tyron Machhausen; manicure, Ashlie Johnson. Prop stylist: Thomas Thurnauer. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
A Life in FullJennifer Garner is a good girl whoÕs played badasses.
Now, she transcends her action pastÑand avoids becoming just the Òwife of.Ó By Judith Newman
Today, the woman who built her career wielding spies’
weapons is running around in something far more dan-
gerous: six-inch heels. By my count, Jennifer Garner has
sped like Secretariat eight times in the highest heels I’ve
ever seen. We’re on a college campus, and she’s filming a
scene in Draft Day, a movie about the Cleveland Browns’
fight to win the first draft pick in the NFL. The scene I’m
watching involves a spoiler, so all I can say is this: The
camera rolls, Garner is running, and when director Ivan
Reitman yells “Cut,” she’s hobbling.
“You can’t do anything but a bunny hop in heels like those,” she tells me
later in her trailer, where she’s traded her character’s A-line skirt and crisp
white shirt for sweats and moccasins. “Normally I try to be nice to my feet and
tendons when I jog.” The woman who kickboxed and nunchaku-ed her way to
stardom in the 2000s in Alias, Daredevil, and Elektra now has a slightly dif-
ferent attitude: The High-Heeled Dash is more her idea of action these days.
“I like the focus of getting in shape for those parts,” she says. “Except I don’t
know how I can do that with kids.”
After taking some time off from movies to be home with her three children,
Garner is rebooting her career—and to a certain extent reinventing it, too. Fans
will see her in a controversial and deeply felt role opposite Matthew McConaughey
in Dallas Buyers Club, at the Toronto International Film Festival this month and
opening nationwide in December. She talks about playing a doctor conducting
drug trials on dying AIDS patients. “It’s gritty. Sometimes it’s very tough to watch,”
Garner says. Also tough to watch: the physical transformation of McConaughey,
who became emaciated to play the part. “Matthew’s a very disciplined guy. He
didn’t just stop eating and fast. He was slow, methodical, thoughtful about it. And
consistent. He was functioning, but he cut his calories down to about 700 a day.”
Garner’s transfor-
mations, at this
point, aren’t phys-
ical; they’re in the
characters she’s
choosing. She’s
evolved from an
action star to a reaction star; her fin-
est moments are not the ones where
she’s chewing (or karate-chopping)
the scenery, but the ones where she’s
simply reacting to everyone around
her. Who can forget the moment in
Juno, in which she played an infer-
tile woman who desperately wants to
adopt a teenage girl’s unborn child?
Complaining about her pregnancy,
the girl thoughtlessly says to Garner’s
character, “Well, you’re lucky it’s not
you,” and the look on Garner’s face
would break your heart.
In that role, Garner was 35. But cer-
tainly these days, at 41, she is going
through what may be a rite of passage
for beautiful women over 40 in Holly-
wood: How do you keep the A-list career
while acknowledging and respect-
ing the passage of time? Although she
hasn’t partaken of anything needle- or
scalpel-related yet, she has no particu-
lar policy, pro or con, about plastic sur-
gery, she says, “because I’m old enough
to know policies don’t necessarily last,
so be careful what box you stand on.”
It may be time to try Botox, but she’s a
little scared “because I have a big fore-
head, and I don’t want it to be like this
slab, a big glacier.”
Her role model is Annette Bening,
an extraordinary actress whom
Garner has loved since The Grifters
and is about to work with in the
movie Imagine. A mutual friend told
them they were quite alike—“similar
sense of humor, same kind of pur-
pose.” And to Garner, Bening seems to
have done the impossible, or at least
the unlikely: maintained a large family
and a larger-than-life husband.
The demands of doing just that
made Garner slightly nuts on the set
of Dallas Buyers Club. “My baby was
with me,” she says. “I was trying to
pump and trying to nurse. I was try-
ing to be there and be home.” And
even though now she’s finally relaxed
about being back to work, there is still
the tug. While we talk, she’s texting
her husband, Ben Affleck, about their
kids’ schedules and proudly show-
ing me photos of daughter Seraphina
in full princess costume. Unlike so
many actors who are at the top of their
game, acting was never Plan A for her.
“I had a baby doll tucked under my
arm everywhere I went,” Garner says.
When she was a young teenager, “my
friend and I ran a babysitting service,
C&J Babysitting. I think we made $2 an
hour. If you’d said to me, ‘You could be
a mom or you could be anything else in
the world,’ I would have been a mom.”
Yet she was also a theater geek.
Garner grew up in West Virginia, the
middle of three sisters, with a moth-
er who was an English teacher and
a father who was a chemical engi-
neer; they saw every play that passed
through town. In addition to the baby-
sitting, she sold ice cream, poured cof-
fee at church brunches, worked at the
local men’s store, and taught ballet to
tots. “We had a clothing allowance of
$200 twice a year, and that had to buy
our winter coat, our underwear, our
shoes,” she says. To this day, Garner
is thrifty, through she prefers to call it
“having common sense.”
Though the Garner sisters were
beauties (Jennifer considers herself
the “odd, angular” one), looks and style
were not exactly a priority. “My mother
has the healthiest lack of vanity I’ve ever
known,” Garner says. Hair? “No layers,
no perms, no colors.” No ear piercings,
either. “Look,” she says, showing me
her unpierced lobes. So I take it, no tat-
toos? Garner looks like I slapped her
across the face. “Oh, my gosh, no! Gar-
ner girls don’t have tattoos.”
Garner moved to New York City
in 1994 and quickly began landing
roles in the theater, small TV parts,
and ultimately the role of Ashton
“People see paparazzi
shots of us together all the time.
There’s no mystery.”
Physical Education The highlights of Garner’s action-packed onscreen history.
In Alias “This was the first episode after the pilot, and I was still learning how to fight. I had stunt people teaching me. I knew choreography from dance, thank God, but to put power in it...it was intense.”
In Daredevil “I was in really good shape here! I had these weapons I had to hold. And from the impact of hitting them over and over, my hands were so swollen that for three days I couldn’t touch the tops of my fingers together.”
In Daredevil “We wanted the character to have a very superhero-y look. This was the most muscle I’ve ever put on. But it was too much. It took me a couple of years to lose it. It’s hard to lose muscle and still stay fit.”
In Elektra “This movie wasn’t very good, but it was the best shape I’d ever been in in my life. It was a spin-off of Daredevil, but I went for a different body type, just much more sleek and lean and toned. I should have just done this movie naked.”
2001 2003 2003
2005
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Wool flannel vest and dress, wool sweater, and belt by Lanvin. Makeup colors: Crease Proof Eye Shadow in Lasting Taupe and MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Warm Caramel by Neutrogena. Details, see Shopping Guide.
251
Kutcher’s girlfriend in Dude, Where’s
My Car? in 2000. A recurring part on
Felicity as the fresh-faced girlfriend
of her future real-life husband Scott
Foley (they divorced in 2003) led to
the hard-bodied quasi-superhero
Sydney Bristow in Alias and other
action roles that involved body trans-
formations. “There were times I had
to watch every calorie that went into
my body,” Garner says. “Doing some-
thing like that again...it’s not exactly
on the top of my list.”
Garner met Affleck
while working on
Pearl Harbor in
2001. But she was
still married to
Foley, and soon
after , Aff leck
became half of Bennifer; he and Jen-
nifer Lopez were paparazzi darlings.
After the ensuing flameout—and
when Garner and Affleck did become
romantically involved—Garner must
have seemed...well, like a Garner
girl: spirited and interesting yet not
given to overt drama.
What were her first impressions of
Affleck? “Well, he’s taller than you’d
expect and more handsome than
you’d think he could be,” Garner says.
“But I also was very aware during the
making of Pearl Harbor that every-
one was on their best behavior when
he was around. Because he’s a really
nice guy, and he leads by example. He
just quietly wouldn’t put up with any-
thing else. So in a movie that could
get a little bit hard, it wasn’t, if he was
there. I remember really thinking that
was pretty cool. I didn’t think I would
marry him, though.” She believed
that she’d end up “with a man like
my dad —somebody who wore a suit
to work every day.” Clearly Affleck
didn’t fit that mold. “My dad has this
quiet authority,” she says thoughtfully.
“They have that in common.”
Presumably, then, Garner and
Affleck will be in more movies
together? Garner furrows her brow.
“You know, it doesn’t make practical
sense. When’s he’s directing, especial-
ly, I need to be taking care of him. I
need to be taking care of our family.
Really, you don’t want to see a couple
onscreen.” Admittedly, it may not
have worked out so well when Affleck
was paired with Lopez onscreen, but
Spencer Tracy and Katharine Hep-
burn, Bogie and Bacall.... “Right,
but they weren’t exposed the way we
are now. People see paparazzi shots
of us together all the time. There’s
no mystery. People are sick of us.”
Garner and Affleck often don’t even
attend award shows together, though
she was there when Affleck’s movie
Argo won best picture at the Acad-
emy Awards this year and he gave his
Berkeley- therapist speech about how
“marriage is work.” (Amusingly, when
Affleck hosted Saturday Night Live
last season, Garner appeared with him
onstage. “What would you have called
it in a speech?” he asked sheepishly.
“A gift,” said Garner, jokingly tight-
lipped. “I would have said, ‘Thank you
to my wife, our marriage is a gift.’ ”)
“It’s a very conscious decision”
to not go to every Hollywood event
together, Garner says. “Sometimes it’s
a pain because my heels are so high
and it would be really nice to have his
arm. And he’s such a great date! But
it can be too much. I think especially
for women, they can really lose their
identity and just become ‘wife of.’ ”
While Garner may fear overexpo-
sure as a Hollywood “power couple,”
she also understands that in the
future she may have to be his perma-
date on the campaign trail. For years
there have been rumors that Affleck,
whose Eastern Congo Initiative brings
aid to one of the most war-ravaged
areas of the world, will be running for
political office. I thought when I asked
Garner how she’d feel about being a
politician’s wife that she’d pooh-pooh
the whole idea. She doesn’t.
“Right now he feels like he can do
more good for people politically from
outside the system,” she says. “Would
I be surprised if one day he did go
into politics? No. But not now.” She
considers him for a moment, with a
combination of admiration, love, and
bemusement. “I’m along for the ride.”
And her own ride? She is very hap-
py, at the moment, to be lending her
considerable talents to
pursuits beyond playing
with dolls and readings
of Where the Wild Things
Are. But she’s got no
grand plan. “Right now
what I look for is the size
of the role, not to be the
lead,” she says. Which is
not to say she’s not a driv-
en person. “Like, I can’t
play Words With Friends
with my mother,” she tells me cheerful-
ly. “If she beats me, I just get too mad.”
Garner may have traded in her war-
rior’s bodice for a doctor’s white coat,
but underneath still beats the heart of
an ass-kicking action hero. ◆
Beauty CallThe expression “natural beauty”
may be overused, but it’s
unavoidable when describing Garner.
Here’s how she gets that way.
What skin-care trick do you swear by?
“Skin has to be clean, and it has to
have sunscreen. And then everything
else after that is gravy. Sleep is
really important, too, but I don’t get
enough sleep for my skin.
I don’t know what woman does.”
What skin-care product can’t you
live without? “I’m starting to
use more stuff that has things like
alpha hydroxy [acid] or retinol.
But I really don’t believe that your
skin-care products have to be
the fanciest things in the world. I like
drugstore products, especially
sunscreen, because I use so much of
it—I like Neutrogena Ultra Sheer
Liquid sunscreen SPF 70.” [Garner is
a spokeswoman for Neutrogena.]
What about hair products? “I have
no idea how women who go to an
office in the morning do it. I don’t use
hair-care products, and I don’t
blow-dry. I don’t even know where
the blow-dryer is. So the thought
of having to incorporate that into my
morning just seems crazy to me.”
What’s the best trick you’ve learned
from a makeup artist? “Use
good brushes! And a nice lip balm.”
What’s your workout routine? “I’ve
been working out with Valerie Waters
for 13 or 14 years. I’ll do different
things. I did Spin for a little while, and
I like yoga. I’ve been doing Pilates
with this woman who was trying to get
my abs back in shape
after the last baby kind of did me in.”
What grooming ritual would you
never let your husband see?
“Well, no man needs to be around
when anything is getting waxed, ever.”
Tablet
Extra:
For a video
interview with
Jennifer Garner,
download Allure
to your tablet.
252
2011
Circa 1985
2000
2000
2001
With Scott Foley at the Hollow Man premiere in Los Angeles “Oh, he’s a great guy. We were full-on grown-ups, but looking back I’m aware we did not know what hit us. We didn’t have a shot. He’s a really good guy, and we just imploded.”
With Bradley Cooper in Alias “Laura Goldsmith did the clothes. She had specific looks for my casual look, my work look, and then I did a fancy wigged-out look every episode. And look at Bradley Cooper. Have you ever seen anyone cuter? They made him dye his hair blonde.”
With Michael Vartan in Alias “This is the last episode of season one. I love Michael Vartan. They loved the nightclub scenes in that show. I was always saying to them, ‘Guys, when I’m dressed up in a different outfit, make me a man. Make me a fat janitor or something.’ ”
2002
At the Golden Globe Awards in Beverly Hills “Oh, best ever. I liked this Vera Wang dress because it was athletic and simple. Chris McMillan did my hair. I think he was at my house for 15 minutes.”
With Colin Farrell, Michael Clarke Duncan, and Ben Affleck at the premiere of Daredevil in Los Angeles “Michael Clarke Duncan, what a wonderful guy. The dress was Cavalli. I don’t know if I’d choose that dress now.... It’s not structured, and it kind of washes me out, and my lipstick is too washed out, too. You evolve, don’t you?”
With Ben Affleck in Daredevil “Oh, I don’t really want to talk about that.... What is there to say? This is from Daredevil, and we shot all night. We shot all night and kept going. It was a 20-hour day. We shot until 2 the next afternoon. They had to block the sun out to keep the room dark.” With Reese Witherspoon at an
event for the Children’s Defense Fund in Beverly Hills “Reese is one of my go-to mamas. She has such a big heart and a good head on her shoulders. She’s one of the people I go to and say, ‘Hey, what do you do about X, Y, Z,’ and she always has an answer.”
2006
With Timothy Olyphant in Catch and Release “We were in Vancouver. It was freezing.”
2007With Anne Hathaway and Jessica Biel at the Valentine’s Day premiere in Hollywood “Two lovely ladies—ooh, look what I’m wearing! I don’t know where that came from, but va-va-voom! I wish I could wear that now.”
With Russell Brand in Arthur “Oh, this was so much fun. I knew I was going to have to ride a horse, so I practiced, but on a horse that you had to light a fire under. And then we got there, with this movie horse who was galloping and poor Russell was sitting bareback on it, holding on to me. And I am not an experienced rider, and it was not like anyone said, ‘Oh, take it easy.’ ”
With Jared Leto filming Dallas Buyers Club “He is so intense here. You can see I did not sit in the makeup chair. The clothing was very ’80s: printed dresses and high-waisted jeans.”
With Affleck on Saturday Night Live “This just happened. I didn’t know I was doing the show that night. Ben was like, ‘Can you come here a little early? We have an idea for something.’ I got there and I realized, Oh, no, this is happening.”
2013
Eighth-grade yearbook photo “Aw, look! And yep, I still look like that. My hair: I would sleep in pink sponge rollers every other night. Or curl the bangs with hot rollers.”
With Marla Sokoloff, Seann William Scott, and Ashton Kutcher in Dude, Where’s My Car? “I still love all these people. I keep in touch with Marla, and I still love Ashton. I’ve worked with him since.”
2003
2002
With Ellen Page in Juno “Part of the reason Jason [Reitman] is such a good director is that he knows when less works better than more. I remember him telling me, ‘You can get this emotional, and no more,’ like, ‘Don’t let anything spill over—stop here.’ ”
2007 2010
2012With Matthew McConaughey at the premiere of Ghosts of Girlfriends Past in Los Angeles “Matthew’s the ultimate leading man.”
With Affleck at the Vanity Fair Oscar party in Los Angeles “That was a good night. Good dress! Gucci.”
2013
With Affleck at the Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los Angeles “This was fun because Victor [Garber] was there—and because they won. And I was 100 percent sure they weren’t gonna win. And they did! And [Affleck] was so thrilled out of his mind.”
2013
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Shopping GuideCover: Louis Vuitton silk-lace-and-feather dress, price available upon request. Select Louis Vuitton stores. Cover Look, page 62: Louis Vuitton silk-lace-and-feather dress, price available upon request. Select Louis Vuitton stores. Allure’s Face, page 76: Jason Wu silk gown, $4,990. Jasonwu studio.com. Joan Hornig cuff, $295. Joanhornig .com. Fashion Bulletin, page 101: Oscar de la Renta Jacquard gown, $7,490; silk sandals, $1,115; gloves, price available upon request; and crystal earrings, $295. Oscardelarenta.com. Fashion Cravings, page 102: Lanvin wool jacket, $4,240, and skirt, $2,080; leather shoes, $1,320; and belt, $790. Lanvin, N.Y.C. 646-329-0380. Lanvin leather bag, $2,210. Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-833-2200. Fashion Expert, page 108: Giambattista Valli wool-and-mink-fur coat, $18,000, and wool pants, $1,150. Saks Fifth Avenue, N.Y.C. 212-753-4000. Autumn Noir, page 211: Chan-tal Thomass bra, $115, and panties, $65. Chantal thomass.fr. Valentin Yudashkin tulle-cashmere- and-plastic dress, price available upon request. Yudashkin.com. Page 212: Tamzin Lillywhite corset, price available upon request. Tamzinlillywhite.co.uk. Christian Louboutin leather shoes, $625. Christian Louboutin, Costa Mesa, California. 714-754-9200. Balmain angora-blend sweater, $4,200. Barneys .com. Eres bikini bottom, $185. 888-656-ERES. Page 215: Atsuko Kudo bra and panties, prices available upon request. Atsukokudo.com. Burberry Prorsum sable-fur dress, $2,495. Burberry.com. Page 217: Eres swimsuit, $595. 888-656-ERES. Balenciaga wool top, $1,545. Balenciaga, N.Y.C. 212-206-0872. Mikoh Swimwear bikini bottom, $78. Revolveclothing.com. How to Be Stylish, page 221: Calvin Klein Collection wool jacket, $3,995; leather skirt, $3,295, and boots, $1,225; and belt, $745. Calvin Klein Collection, N.Y.C. 212-292-9000. Laruicci gold plate ring, $463. La ruicci.com. Jennifer Fisher rings, $140 each. Jennifer fisherjewelry.com. Thomas Pink wool suit, $1,400. Thomaspink.com. Uniqlo wool turtleneck, $39.90. Uniqlo.com. Grenson leather shoes, $385. Grenson .co.uk. Gucci cashmere turtleneck, $995. Gucci stores. Marni cotton-blend coat, $3,450. Marni stores. Donna Karan New York leather shoes, $1,095. Donna Karan stores. Alexander Wang pony-hair bag, $1,400. Alexanderwang.com. Portolano Products gloves, $200. 212-719-4403. Rag & Bone wool coat, $895. Neiman Marcus stores. Brioni cashmere silk turtleneck, $950. Brioni stores. Jil Sander wool pants, $1,090. Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-833-2200. Page 223: Reed Krakoff silk top, $990; gabardine skirt, $990; and leather satchel, $1,190. Reedkrakoff .com. Cartier gold-and-leather watch, $17,000. Cartier.us. Burberry London cotton trench coat, $1,695. Burberry.com. Michael Kors wool suit, $695. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Hamilton Shirts poplin shirt, $325. Hamiltonshirts.com. The Tie Bar tie, $15. Thetiebar.com. Hermès alligator-and-leather watch, $5,350. Hermès.com. Page 224: Céline viscose top, $2,350, and skirt, $1,550. Capitol, Charlotte, North Carolina. 704-366-0388. Céline leather boots, $2,890, and felt bag, $1,200. Céline, Miami. 305-866-1888. Theory wool polyamide coat, $695. Blooming-
dale’s stores. Paul Smith wool suit, $1,530. Paul Smith, N.Y.C. 646-613-3060. Bally cashmere turtle-neck, $1,295. Bally, N.Y.C. 212-751-9082. Paul Smith wool suit, $1,530. Paul Smith, N.Y.C. 646-613-3060. David Yurman stainless steel watch, $4,400. David yurman.com. Narciso Rodriguez wool twill jacket, $2,195, and pants, $1,095; and silk top, $895. Marios, Seattle. 206-223-1461. Narciso Rodriguez leather booties, $1,195. Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-833-2200. Atelier Swarovski by Zaldy crystal ring, $220. Swarovski, N.Y.C. 212-308-1710. Thomas Pink wool suit, $1,400, and poplin shirt, $185. Thomaspink .com. The Tie Bar tie, $15. Thetiebar.com. Grenson leather shoes, $380. Grenson.co.uk. Hamilton Shirts poplin shirt, $325. Hamiltonshirts.com. Page 226: Jil Sander wool nylon coat, $2,950. Jil Sander, N.Y.C. 212-925-2345. Jil Sander polypropylene elastane turtleneck, $790. Neiman Marcus stores. Jil Sander wool-blend pants, $830. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Stella McCartney faux-leather bag, $770. Stella Mc-Cartney, N.Y.C. 212-255-1556. Jutta Neumann New York belt, $210. Jutttaneumann-newyork.com. Calvin Klein wool coat, $295. Macy’s stores. Brunello Cuci-nelli cashmere turtleneck, $1,165. Brunello Cucinelli, N.Y.C. 212-813-0900. Paul Smith wool suit, $1,530. Paul Smith, N.Y.C. 646-613-3060. Page 227: Derek Lam satin top, $1,290, and wool pants, $990. Barneys New York. 212-833-2200. Chloé gold bracelet, $675. Chloé, N.Y.C. 646-350-1770. Vita Fede gold plate ring, $275. Vitafede.com. Michael Kors wool suit, $695. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Hamilton Shirts poplin shirt, $325. Hamiltonshirts.com. Calvin Klein tie, $65. Calvinklein.com. Thomas Pink shirt, $185. Thomas pink.com. The Tie Bar tie, $15. Thetiebar.com. Page 229: Proenza Schouler woven-leather jacket, $9,000, and skirt, $9,500; chain-embroidered top, $7,365; and leather-and-rubber shoes, $945. Proenza Schouler, N.Y.C. 212-585-3200. Gaspar Gloves gloves, $235. Gaspargloves.com. Gucci cashmere turtleneck, $995. Select Gucci stores. Levi’s jeans, $64 to $78. Levi.com. Dior Homme technical-canvas trench coat, $2,350. Diorhomme.com. Uniqlo wool turtleneck, $39.90. Uniqlo.com. Calvin Klein polyes-ter jacket, $250. Macy’s stores. Chop Chop, page 230: Nina Ricci silk cardigan, $975. Barneys New York stores. Dior Homme cotton shirt, $590, and silk tie, $190. Diorhomme.com. Page 233: Gap cotton polyester spandex tank top, $16.50. Gap.com. Page 235: Balenciaga cashmere ribbed sweater, $495. Balenciaga, N.Y.C. 212-206-0872. Gucci silk cotton poplin suit, $2,150. Gucci.com. Dior Homme cotton shirt, $590. Diorhomme.com. Hot Pursuits, page 240: Fendi leather skirt, $2,300, and top, price avail-able upon request; leather-and-mink shoes, $1,990; leather bag, $4,000; and sunglasses, $395. Fendi, N.Y.C. 212-759-4646. Laruicci necklace, $625. La ruicci.com. Page 241: Emporio Armani velvet neo-prene blazer, $895. Emporio Armani stores. Emporio Armani gloves, $295. Select Emporio Armani stores. Oscar de la Renta viscose skirt, $1,690. Neiman Mar-cus stores. Helen Yarmak fox-fur collar, price avail-able upon request. 212-245-0777. Page 242: Gucci Persian lamb jacket, $16,900, and skirt, $14,000;
goat-hair shawl, $3,900; python clutch, $2,390; and gloves, $525. Select Gucci stores. Page 244: Michael Kors mink shawl, $9,500; wool top, $350, and skirt, $1,150; leather shoes, price available upon request for similar styles; belt, $450; silver neck-lace, $350 for similar styles; and gloves, price avail-able upon request for similar styles. Select Michael Kors stores. Page 245: Prada wool twill jacket, $1,995, and skirt, $1,315; leather shoes, price available upon request; and belt, $475. Select Prada stores. Dior Homme wool suit, $3,000, and cotton shirt, $590. Dior Homme stores. Marc Jacobs leath-er shoes, $695. Marc Jacobs, N.Y.C. 212-343-1490. Calvin Klein tie, $59.50. Macy’s stores. Page 246: Sportmax silk skirt, $750, and top, $795. Sportmax, N.Y.C. 212-674-1817. Vera Wang Collection fox-fur shawl, $2,495. Vera Wang, N.Y.C. 212-382-2184. Mi-chael Kors gloves, price available upon request for similar styles. Select Michael Kors stores. Bottega Veneta crocodile clutch, $8,600. Bottega Veneta stores. Jason Wu belt, $495. Jasonwustudio.com. Fendi sunglasses, $395. Fendi, N.Y.C. 212-759-4646. Chanel necklace, $2,795. Select Chanel stores. Page 247: Marc Jacobs wool jacket, $1,600, and skirt, $685; python shoes, $1,795; and fox-fur stole, $3,500. Marc Jacobs, N.Y.C. 212-343-2490. Louis Vuitton crocodile-and-mink bag, price available upon request. 866-VUITTON. A Life in Full, page 248: Prada wool felt coat, $3,100; Shetland wool vest, $710; leather skirt, $3,395; silk-satin-and-leather shoes, price available upon request; and suede belt, $375. Select Prada stores. Calvin Klein Underwear bra, $40. Bloomingdale’s stores. Page 251: Lanvin wool flannel vest, $4,280, and dress, $2,290. Berg-dorf Goodman, N.Y.C. 212-753-7300. Lanvin wool sweater, $900, and belt, $780. Net-a-porter.com.
PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITSBEAUTY REPORTER Page 80, clockwise from top right: John Manno; Nicholas Prakas; Thomas Scheuer; Noah Fecks; Wilson Lee; David Cook; Kenneth Willardt.BEAUTY REPORTER Page 90, clockwise from top: David Cook; Stephen Lovekin/FilmMagic; Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images; FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; GAB Archive/Redferns/Getty Images; John Manno; Splash News/Corbis.FASHION BULLETIN Page 101, clockwise from top left: Phil Oh/streetpeeper.com; David Cook (still lifes); Steve Granitz/WireImage; Fairchild Archive (runway).STYLIST SECRETS: SHOPPING LIKE A PRO Page 123, clockwise from top left: Said Elatab/Splash News; Splash News; CL/Splash News; Marcus/Zodiac/Splash News; Sharpshooter/Splash News; Splash News; JML/Splash News. Page 124, clockwise from top right: Terry Richardson; The Coveteur/Trunk Archive; Marko MacPherson/vogue.com; Naj Jamal; Brandon Harman; courtesy of subject; David Cook (still lifes); Ben Gabbe/Getty Images.RAY OF LIGHT Page 152: Courtesy of Robert Anolik (Reducing Redness); courtesy of Nancy Berson (Whole-Face Resurfacing); Jodi Richfield/courtesy of Brian Bies-man (Brown Spots).STAR HAIR TIPS Page 166, clockwise from top: Imaxtree .com; Harry Pluviose/Retna Ltd.; Jason LaVeris/Film-Magic; Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images. Page 168, clockwise from top left: Jason Jean/Citizen Couture; Tommy Ton/Trunk Archive; Craig Arend/Altamiranyc; Phil Oh/Streetpeeper.com (3).
GET POLISHED Page 176, clockwise from top: David Cook; George Strock/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Im-ages; no credit; courtesy of Bonhams; Maya Kovacheva/Alamy; Werner Forman/UIG/Getty Images; Gianni Da-gli Orti/The Art Archive at Art Resource, NY. Page 177, clockwise from top: David Cook; DPA/Everett Collec-tion; Tony Duffy/Allsport/Getty Images; no credit; Marc Royce; H. Armstrong Roberts/Retrofile/Getty Images; Dove Express/Getty Images. Page 182, from left: Mi-ramax/Everett Collection; courtesy of CND; Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images; Kevin Mazur/WireImage (2); Jason Merritt/Getty Images.BEAUTY AND THE BEAT Page 209, clockwise from top left: Courtesy of michellephan.com; AFP/AFP/Getty Images; Reuters/Michael Kooren; courtesy of Rabia Z; courtesy of PureCure.A LIFE IN FULL Page 250, from left: Craig Sjodin/ABC/Getty Images; Mary Evans/Ronald Grant/Everett Collec-tion; Moviestore Collection/Rex/Rex USA. Page 253, top row, from left: Seth Poppel/Yearbook Library; Ron Galella Ltd./WireImage; 20th Century Fox/Everett/Rex USA; Retna Ltd. Second row, from left: Mitchell Haaseth/ABC/Getty Images; S. Granitz/WireImage; Gregg Deguire/WireImage; 20th Century Fox/Everett/Rex USA; J. Vespa/WireImage. Third row, from left: Sony Pics/Everett/Rex USA; Snap Stills/Rex/Rex USA; Lester Cohen/WireImage; Warner Bros. Pictures/Newscom. Bottom row, from left: Deano/Breedo/Splash News; Michael Germana/Zumapress/Newscom; Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage; Elevation Photos/Sipa USA/Newscom; wenn.com.
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254 7bbkh[���I[fj[cX[h�(&')
MOLLY SIMS
“Get on my computer and
read the latest gossip.”
AMANDA
SEYFRIED
“Reading my book, The Solitude of
Prime Numbers, will put me to sleep.
I can only read ten pages a night.”
CAMILLA
BELLE
“I watch the Food Network.
It makes me hungry, but it
helps me get to a really
nice place.”
KERRY
WASHINGTON
“When I can’t sleep, I take liquid calcium supplements. And
if I really can’t sleep, I get to my TiVo and catch up on
shows.”
ANNE HATHAWAY
“I wake my husband up and make
him talk to me.”
What do you do when you can’t sleep?
Photographed by Patrick McMullan
By Jeffrey Slonim
They can’t buy it, their publicists can’t book it, and designers can’t loan it to them:
Celebrities yearn for a good night’s sleep as much as the rest of us. At the Tony
Awards, the Variety Power of Comedy fund-raiser, and the Time 100 and 2013 Cinema
for Peace galas, we asked them what they do when insomnia strikes. Jennifer Lopez
enters a meditative state: “I close my eyes. I think good thoughts. I pray.”
Emmy Rossum likes to “check Instagram and look at people’s pictures,” while
Morena Baccarin prefers to “read a book.” Along the same lines, Seth MacFarlane
said, “A Twilight book puts me right out.” Blythe Danner turns to infomercials,
admitting, “I buy all of those exercise videos on television, and then I just put them
in my closet.” And Jeremy Piven relies on his imagination: “I pretend I’m an
extra in a war movie and that I’m lying dead,” he said. Mark Consuelos, glancing
at wife Kelly Ripa, was a bit saucier; he replied, “Isn’t it obvious?”
Private Eye
JULIANNA MARGULIES
“I learn lines.”
HELENA CHRISTENSEN
“I imagine that I’m a gymnast at the Olympics doing some crazy
performance. And then usually I fall asleep, or fall.”
ZOOEY DESCHANEL
“I love to watch Top Chef.”
BEN AFFLECK
“Take an Ambien.”
MEGAN FOX (with husband
Brian Austin Green)
“We watch something on television or I
make him bring me cookie dough.”
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