Allure USA 2013-09

How to Shop Smart—And Look Good in Everything

The Cool Girl’s Guide to Style

Fall’s Sexiest HaircutTear Out Page 232 and Take It to the Salon

JenniferGarner

The Action Babe Next Door

THE BEAUTY EXPERT

SEPTEMBER 2013

New SUPERPRETTYMakeupShades of Deep Green, Wine, and Rich Blue

Kick Your Bad Skin Habits(Your Phone = Bacteria Hotbed)

The No-Diet Diet

Eat Less, Feel Full

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In This IssueBeauty Reporter69 Look Now: Jason Wu Makeup

74 Editors’ Favorites

76 Allure’s Face: Natalie Dormer

80 3-D Lip Gloss ʎ Calvin Klein

Downtown ʎ Splashlights

82 Behind the Makeup ʎ Free Stuff

ʎ Product Review

86 The Bombshell Blowout ʎ Burnished

Gold ʎ Peach and Lily

90 Pretty, Easy ʎ Katy Perry’s New

Fragrance ʎ Sky Ferreira

96 Beauty 101. Personalize Your

Perfume. BY LEXI NOVAK

Fashion101 Fashion Bulletin. Opulent Prints

102 Fashion Cravings. Military Looks

104 Fashion Extras. Top-Handle Bags

106 Fashion Extras. High-Heeled

Booties

108 Fashion Expert. Giambattista Valli.

BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT

110 Cult Object. Fendi Shoes

112 User’s Guide to Style. The coolest

jacket this season is actually

a cape. Six fashionable women

make the trend their own.

BY ALEXANDRA OWENS

220ELEMENTS OF STYLE

What to wear to work right now

p. 210

p. 196

p. 230 p. 123

p. 236

p. 248

September2013

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210FALL IN LUST

Sexy, smoky, sultry shades that look hot as

the weather cools

September 2013

123 Fashion Advice. Stylist Secrets:

Shopping Like a Pro. Zeroing

in on the perfect blazer or a one-

in-a-million vintage find isn’t

just a talent—it’s a career.

Hollywood’s top stylists reveal

their best shopping strategies.

BY BROOKE LE POER TRENCH

Insiders’ Guide130 Advice on styling your bathroom,

wearing self-tanner after

summer ends, and more.

142 The Hair Pro. Snap Happy.

BY CHRIS MCMILLAN

144 Essay. The First Makeover. The

magical transformations that have

been honed to a fine art began

with one woman’s ingenious,

pleading letter to a magazine. The

origin of the before-and-after.

BY VIRGINIA POSTREL

165 Know-It-Alls. Star Hair Tips.

Bobby pins fall to the floor,

ponytails droop, and roots

deflate —but they don’t have to.

We asked top hair pros to

share their tricks for mastering

your favorite styles without

a hitch. BY CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL

175 Nail Report. Get Polished.

Glossy black manicures,

matching lacquer-and-lipstick

sets, the season’s sexiest

shades—we tip off fall’s top nail

news. BY MEIRAV DEVASH

Health150 Skin. Ray of Light. Lasers are

more effective than ever—for

nearly every skin issue under the

sun. BY JOAN KRON

162 Body News. Hair Strengtheners

ʎ Cure for Grays ʎ Body Goals.

BY KRISTIN SAINANI

186 Health. Great Whites. The best

new ways to brighten your teeth.

BY RAMONA EMERSON

186SMILE PRETTY

Easy, effective ways to get gleaming white teeth F

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On Allure.comDiscover the prettiest new nail-polish shades,

the hottest (and most out-there) nail-art trends,

and ingenious application tricks from pro

manicurists every day (not just #manimonday)

on allure.com. Visit allure.com/go/nails.

September 2013

175

236

MOUTH OFFGlittery glosses give lips an iridescent effect.80

SKIN BLUNDERSHow modern addictions are secretly sabotaging your complexion

NAIL REPORTComing to your hands this fall: Dramatic

shades, shapes, and nail-art trends.

190 Phenomenon. Beyond the Pale.

Skin bleaching in Jamaica

provokes sharp reactions from

those who call it dangerous —and

those who defend it as self-

expression. BY KATHERINE ZOEPF

196 Diet. No More Hunger Games. This

isn’t a diet story about cutting

back or learning to go without: New

science can teach us how to feel

satisfied with less. BY PATRICK ROGERS

202 Directory. Hair Color

Features210 Autumn Noir. Our guide to the

makeup shades that are made for

the cooler, sexier, and more

adventurous side of September.

BY SOPHIA PANYCH

220 How to Be Stylish. Only fashion

amateurs save their best getups

for going out. The newest clothes

for fall are perfect for the office—

and chic enough to put Saturday

night to shame. BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL

230 Chop Chop. Don’t call it a cute pixie.

The hottest/coolest haircut of

the season may be short, but it’s not

exactly sweet. BY MEIRAV DEVASH

236 Surprise Skin Sins. Are juice fasts

and Instagram binges bad for you?

Yes—but not necessarily in the way

you might think. BY JOLENE EDGAR

240 Hot Pursuits. Day looks for your

darkest hour: Plush wraps,

power-hungry suits, slick little

shoes, and a good cover.

248 A Life in Full. Jennifer Garner is

a good girl who’s played badasses.

Now, she transcends her action

past—and avoids becoming just the

“wife of.” BY JUDITH NEWMAN

Regulars40 Contributors

46 Mail

54 Beauty by Numbers

62 Cover Look

64 Editor’s Letter

209 Beauty and the Beat. Mad, Mad

World. BY GRACE CLARKE

256 Private Eye. What do you do when

you can’t sleep? BY JEFFREY SLONIM

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allure.com

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter the Prevage giveaway and for full rules, go to allure.com/go/free-stuff. Starts at 12:01 A.M. EDT on August 13, 2013, and ends at 11:59 P.M. EDT on September 16, 2013. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States/D.C. 18 or older, except employees of Sponsor, their immediate families, and those living in the same household. Odds of winning depend on the number of entries received. Void outside the 50 United States/D.C. and where prohibited. A.R.V. of prize: $552. Sponsor: Condé Nast. Standard data rates apply. For complete mobile terms and conditions, visit allure.com/go/mobile.

New Fall Makeup

Turquoise liner, garnet

shadow, lilac lipstick:

We reveal these top colors

and more (page 210).

For additional options, visit

allure.com/makeup-looks.

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Backstage at the Fashion ShowsBrowse, dabble, or fully immerse yourself in the latest

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BEAUTY PRODUCTFINDER

Hallelujah, September! Bring on the crunching leaves. The skinny black pants. The

autumnal equinox. Come fall, it’s out with tinted moisturizer, in with

foundation. Which leads us to the Allure Beauty Product Finder. We’ve tested and

reviewed over 100 foundations—28 are oil-free, 19 provide anti-aging

benefits, and 54 have SPF. Log on to allure.com/go/product-finder, answer a few

quick questions, and we’ll recommend the perfect foundation for you. Then

click “buy” and it will be delivered to your door. Amen to that.

We’ve Got You Covered

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Mario TestinoIn “Autumn Noir,” Candice Swanepoel and Edita

Vilkeviciute, Testino’s glamorous models, wore

the season’s best makeup—in a dangerously sexy scenario

that involved them getting waxed and tattooed.

“I wanted it to look a bit clinical,” the photographer says

of the shoot, which took place on a stark white

set. “Women go through a lot of pain to be beautiful,

so I tried to portray that.” His favorite images?

“I like the ones with armpit waxing and ear piercing,” he

says. “They are such funny traditions.”

Judith NewmanNewman came away from meeting Jennifer Garner for

“A Life in Full” charmed—and worried, “thinking I’ve

got to find someone insane to write about, because she’s

just too normal,” she says, recalling the Britney Spears

profile she wrote for Allure in 2007. “Why couldn’t

Jennifer be like Britney and not show up? Now that was

a story!” Still, Newman appreciated Garner’s wholesome

goodness. “Vanity isn’t in her language. In some ways,

she’s still the high-school girl wearing glasses

and playing the clarinet. She’s the world’s cutest nerd.”

Alexi LubomirskiJennifer Garner is known for being a natural beauty,

so Lubomirski aimed for a location to match for

“A Life in Full.” “We wanted to shoot her outdoors to

feel the subtle colors of the trees in the background,”

he says. The photographer was equally pleased

with his subject. “When Jennifer steps in front of the

camera, she is stunning—her lips, her dimples,

the twinkle in her eyes. She shines from within, so

you don’t need any props to help the shoot

along. As soon as she smiles, she just lights up.”

Virginia PostrelPostrel, author of “The First Makeover,” became interested

in the topic while researching her upcoming book, The

Power of Glamour (Simon & Schuster). She discovered

that physical transformation can be more complicated

than it seems. “Sometimes the results conflict with the

person you see yourself as, so you don’t feel like you’re

looking at yourself in the mirror anymore,” she says.

“A Twilight Zone episode, ‘Number 12 Looks Just

Like You,’ turns a makeover into a horror story —you can

go from being unique to a standard model.”

Contributors

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Katherine ZoepfAs Zoepf spent her days in the street markets, bars, and

back alleys of Kingston reporting on illegal skin

bleaching products in Jamaica for “Beyond the Pale,” one

thing struck the writer again and again. “Even in the

poorest neighborhood, it’s common to see women emerge

from their homes perfectly turned out—everything crisply

ironed, makeup flawless,” says Zoepf, who is working on a

book about young Arab women. And the power of beauty

clearly transcends geographical borders: “It’s something

I’ve admired in developing countries.”

Joan KronKron delved into the latest laser technologies in “Ray of

Light”—and has experienced the results of many

of them herself. “I’ve had brown spots removed with an

alexandrite laser a few times,” says the Allure

contributing editor at large. “We call them freckles when

we’re young, but when they start getting darker, it’s

not so cute.” She also admires the progress that has been

made with fractional lasers since she started covering

cosmetic surgery in the early ’90s. “For dermatology,

splitting a laser was like splitting the atom.”

Patrick Rogers As Rogers learned while researching “No More Hunger

Games,” people are “surprisingly clueless” about how

much they’re eating—and he dug up the science to prove

it. “In one study, subjects were fed through soup bowls

that were automatically refilled by hidden pipes,” he says.

“The vast majority didn’t realize it, except for one—who

dropped his napkin and saw the tubes under the table.”

Reporting like this can inspire changes in behavior,

Rogers found: “I remind myself I don’t need to eat the

whole plate. Your eyes can play major tricks on you.”

Tom MunroPhotographers find ideas in all art forms, and in the

case of “Chop Chop,” Munro was influenced by Jean-Luc

Godard’s movies featuring his wife, actress Anna

Karina. For this story, a male model played director to

Jessica Stam’s French star in front of the camera. Stam

was also a muse behind the scenes to hairstylist Garren,

who gave her a new cropped hairstyle especially for the

shoot. The photographer was impressed by Garren and

his creativity. “He’s brilliant and always makes the shoot

so effortless,” says Munro. “He’s the king of hair.”

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Nicolas MooreMoore envisioned a particular type of femme fatale

for “Hot Pursuits.” “We wanted to go in the direction

of a dangerous assassin, rather than a man-eater,”

he says. “It’s about strong women, like Angelina Jolie,

Melanie Griffith in Body Double, and Grace Jones.

I think the empowerment is appealing. And

the uncertainty—you don’t know who she is or what

she’s doing next.” As the photographer discovered,

model Julia Frauche assumed that role easily. “She

didn’t say much. Sometimes less is more.”

Jolene EdgarFor “Surprise Skin Sins,” Edgar spoke to top

dermatologists about the latest bad habits and learned

that even the professionals aren’t perfect. “Most of

the doctors I interviewed confessed to having a bad habit

or two of their own,” she says. “One admitted to not

always washing her face before bed—she even sleeps on

a navy pillowcase to hide mascara marks. We’re

not the only ones screwing up, and there’s something

reassuring about that. But doctors manage their

lapses with antioxidants, retinoids, and in-office peels.”

Sebastian KimKim, who photographed “How to Be Stylish,” recently

received his own fashion lesson. “I’d been wearing

the same thing, jeans and a white T-shirt, since college,”

he says. “But I decided it was time to grow up and

try something new.” He’s since added some upgrades to

his laid-back wardrobe, including Jil Sander jackets

and J.Crew Ludlow suits—tailored and powerful, like the

clothing in this story. “I think the secret to being

stylish is expressing one’s individuality. Or having a

stylish wife who knows how to pick things out for you.”

Ramona EmersonEmerson has one of the bright smiles she wrote about

for “Great Whites,” but she once bordered on overkill.

“I used Crest Whitestrips in high school and liked how

white they made my teeth,” the Allure associate editor

says. “But some people told me they worked too well—it

was like that Friends episode when Ross bleaches his

teeth and they glow in the dark.” Ten years later, she still

has a perfect—though not iridescent—set. “A dentist

I interviewed said that some people’s teeth whiten better

than others’, so I guess I’m one of the lucky ones.”

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Mail

Prior to reading about Amy Adams,

I only knew of her as the redheaded

movie star who did a remarkable

job playing Giselle in Disney’s 2007

movie Enchanted. I wasn’t surprised

when Adams was given the title of

“Shape Shifter” [July]. Though she

has awards and success, I find it

weird that she’s not in the limelight

more often, not that I would wish for

such a thing. It seems that her best

advantage in her acting comes from

being under the radar. She doesn’t

need media in her face to be popu-

lar; I’m sure many fans appreciate

her work quietly.

Samantha Chery

Ocoee, FL

Pony UpHaving long hair, I can appreciate

effortless, stylish ways to wear it up,

which is why I loved the “Show Ponies”

article [July]. I can finally switch out

my boring ponytail for all these dif-

ferent looks. I can’t wait to try them

out! I never realized ponytails could

be so versatile. Thanks, Allure!

Kimberly Barr

via email

Feminine MystiqueI am a compulsive record keeper.

When I see or read something that I

find interesting, thought-provoking,

or poignant, I circle it, highlight it, or

type it up. When I flipped to Colum

McCann’s essay [“The Invisible

Woman,” July] about a male author

who writes primarily female charac-

ters, I was completely immersed in

his writing. I had put my computer to

sleep in order to focus only on read-

ing the magazine, but I kept turning

it back on to copy down his words

because they were so powerful, and

I had to keep a record of them so I

could reread them whenever I want-

ed to. The way he used language to

describe the contrast between men

and women’s emotional intelligence

and capability especially caught my

eye. Incredible essay.

Lara Fu

Potomac, MD

I enjoyed the essay “The Invisible

Woman,” but I smirked while I read

it. Here’s why. “Women are far more

complicated than men, and therefore

more attractive. Being complicated

is a mysterious thing. And mystery is

always alluring.... Simply put, [women

are] more engaging.... I would ven-

ture to say that women actually find

it thrilling to have a man enter their

mind.” Perhaps Colum McCann hit the

nail on the head—almost. It’s fair to

say that most men find our complexity

enticingly baffling. What women love

most about being women is the sense

of power that our complexity brings

us. It’s an untouchable trait that is ours

to keep. Men will never really be able

Chasing AmyThe July 2013 issue featuring Amy Adams on the cover afected me emotionally. In all the twenty-something years of my life, no women’s magazine has ever moved me—until today, when the issue arrived. To see Adams looking so natural, with a few crow’s-feet under her eyes, made me feel relieved of the pressures we go through as women. I assure you I am speaking for women everywhere who saw this. A little dolled up is OK, but please continue to show women looking real.

Lisa Lee

Indianapolis


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to figure us out. Quite frankly, that’s

empowering. Thanks for the read.

Taylor Palmer

Istanbul

I won’t lie. Most of the time, when I

pick up Allure, I am looking for beau-

ty tips—which products and styles are

trending. However, Colum McCann’s

essay really caught my attention.

His imagery is vivid; his desire to be

someone else, relatable. But mostly,

for a moment, I believed he was every-

thing he was saying he was. Often I

imagine I’m someone else, an offshoot

of myself, but never am I able to com-

pletely re-create myself as he does.

Instead I hide under makeup and

accessories. From each new persona I

learn more about myself. I understand

his ability to write from a woman’s

perspective more easily than a man’s—

he can’t lose himself as easily.

Eliza Rocket

New York City

Breast IntentionsAllure has been a staple in my home

for many years, keeping me informed

about skin care, hair care, fashion,

and ever-changing current trends. The

July issue was no exception. I particu-

larly enjoyed your article about breasts

[“Breast Friends”], which was enter-

taining, informative, helpful, and just

plain fun. Noticeably absent, however,

was any inclusion of women with post-

surgical breasts, particularly related

to cancer surgery. No woman should

feel disenfranchised from a discussion

about breasts; they’re all beautiful!

Tamson Chambers

Yountville, CA

I just read Allure’s feature “Breast

Friends.” How to dress them, how

to give them facials, but only a small

mention about self-exams. My moth-

er battled breast cancer twice in her

life and lost both breasts to cancer.

She died in 1990 at the age of only

43. If she were alive today I really

don’t think she would care to read

about breast fashions and facials. She

would care about early detection, and

she would expect a little more than

“get checked if you notice....” Allure

is not a medical journal but has often

run stories on women’s-health issues.

Many products and organizations

that focus on breast-cancer research

are often mentioned in this magazine.

Breast cancer is a scary subject, and

many women may not have access to

health care. Why not list at least one

website with some information about

breast cancer in this story?

Janice Dubuisson

via email

It’s a WrapThanks so much for “The Art of an

Urban Turban” [“27 Ways to Look

Hot and Feel Cool,” July]! I’ve been

trying to get the turban right for

years, but I could never figure out

how to show off my hair and rock a

head scarf at the same time. Who’d

have thought salt spray would be the

answer? I love that you’re embracing

boho this summer!

Sasha Kay

New York City

Self SacrificeI’m a longtime reader, but this month

especially, you made me proud to call

Allure my favorite magazine! I love

learning about beauty (and so much

more), especially the way you write

about it. However, in today’s world,

it’s easy to become preoccupied with

our looks. That’s why I particularly

loved this month’s Beauty and the

Beat, “Give It Up” [July], about women

who gave up mirrors, grooming, and

shopping. I may not be planning to

stop my beauty routine cold turkey,

but I think I’ll go barefaced a little

more often. Thank you for showing

(once again) that beauty is so much

more than what’s on the outside—it’s

also loving yourself and having the

confidence to show it.

Robin Davis

Houston

Allure RegretsIn Beauty by Numbers [July], we

incorrectly identified Catherine,

Duchess of Cambridge, as Princess

Catherine. Allure regrets the error.


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Goldie Hawn in The First Wives

Club (1996)

Beauty by Numbers

18 Diseases of the skin, hair,

nails, and tongue said to be discovered by Imhotep,

the earliest identified physician, in the Third

Dynasty in ancient Egypt.

1500 B.C.: Period of time when

doctors in Egypt experimented with

an early form of dermabrasion to

fade scars: sandpaper.

460 B.C.: Approximate birth year

of Greek physician Hippocrates, the

father of medicine. He recommended

a well-balanced diet, adequate sleep,

and cleanliness to treat acne.

150–160 A.D.: Decade when Greek

physician Galen developed cold

cream for medicinal use. The oil-

and-wax formulation loosened dirt

and dry skin cells from the face.

11th Century when it was

believed that a touch from royalty

could heal the skin disease known as

scrofula, a tuberculous infection of

the skin on the neck. The disease was

commonly called “the King’s evil.”

1932 Year the American Board of

Dermatology and Syphilology was founded.

23: Years later the board

dropped “syphilology” from the

name after penicillin became a

widespread treatment for syphilis—

one of the original reasons for the

study of skin diseases.

2Times the Hungarian

cosmetologist Erno Laszlo

failed the American medical

examinations due to his

poor English skills. He earned his

medical degree in Europe, he told

Life magazine in 1967.

677: Address on Fifth Avenue in

New York City where Laszlo

opened his Institute for Cosmetology

in 1939. His clients included

Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy,

and Greta Garbo.

1966Year the dermatologist T.J. Baker and his colleague H. L. Gordon published a study on the ability of their phenol chemical peel to smooth deep wrinkles.

3: Approximate number of decades

the formulation, known as the Baker-

Gordon peel, remained popular

among dermatologists.

1968 Year the Estée

Lauder company launched Clinique,

developed with the help of

doctor Norman Orentreich, making

it the first dermatologist-created

skin-care line.

2Number of Orentreich’s

three children who

became dermatologists—

and who continue to

consult for Clinique.

Dermatologists“Beauty is only skin deep”—unless you’re a dermatologist. Doctors

have been looking after and perfecting our largest, most visible

organ for centuries. We extract the highlights. —SOPHIA PANYCH

Number of scrofula victims supposedly touched by King Henry IV of France in one sitting. 1,500


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1971 Year Johnson & Johnson

introduced Retin-A, which was developed by

dermatologist Albert Kligman and his team

four years earlier. Kligman also coined the

term “photoaging.” 13: Years it took the FDA to

approve Botox (originally approved

to correct eye spasms and crossed

eyes) as a treatment for moderate to

severe frown lines. Before 2002,

cosmetic dermatologists used the

treatment off-label for that purpose.

6,100,000

Number of Botox treatments

performed in 2012.

$400,000: Estimated amount

received in 1986 by Christiaan

Barnard, the doctor who conducted

the first heart transplant, for

endorsing the expensive anti-aging

cream Glycel.

1Years later Glycel was taken

off the U.S. market. Criticism

of the product’s excessive and

unestablished claims

tarnished Barnard’s reputation.

1990s: Decade of the “Paris lip” fad,

when dermatologists and plastic

surgeons injected the top lip with

collagen, a trend sparked by

models—and Barbara Hershey’s

character in Beaches.

2,641 Miles dermatologist

Arnold Klein traveled (from Los

Angeles to New York City) to inject

Goldie Hawn’s lips with saline for the

1996 movie The First Wives Club.

2011: Year Dolly Parton said at the

Hollywood Bowl, “It takes a lot of

money to look this cheap, and I owe

it all to Dr. Arnie Klein.”

163rd Episode of Seinfeld in which Jerry, on a date with a dermatologist, yells, “You call yourself lifesaver; I call you Pimple Popper, M.D.”

3.2: Dermatologists per 100,000

persons in the U.S., according

to data published in the Archives of

Dermatology in 2010.

18.9: Dermatologists per 100,000

persons in central and

lower Manhattan, according to

the same report.

7: Product lines started by

dermatologists that are currently

sold at sephora.com.

Beauty by Numbers

Jim Broadbent and Katherine Helmond in Brazil (1985)

Portion of Guthy-Renker’s $1.5 billion revenue that comes from Proactiv, the acne system developed by dermatologists Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields.½


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http://sephora.com

In the mountains of

southern California, King

Gillette Ranch was once a

party destination for

Clark Gable and Greta

Garbo. Now Garner, who shot

this Allure cover (her third)

there with photographer Alexi

Lubomirski, can be added to its

A-list revelers.

Morning Glory: Garner, in Rag &

Bone jeans, Prada loafers, and a

white button-down shirt, chatted

with Allure’s creative director,

Paul Cavaco, about her facial the

day before. The two laughed,

deciding that getting a facial the

day before a cover shoot isn’t the

best idea. (Fortunately, her skin

wasn’t completely blotchy.)

Family Ties: Garner shared family

photos with Allure West Coast

editor Kelly Atterton, also a

mother of three. They discussed

how the third pregnancy takes a

toll on the body, but Garner

added, “I just tried a new Pilates

teacher, and she kicked my butt!”

Lunch Break: Lubomirski

snapped the last image, then the

team broke for lunch. Garner

sampled a kale-beet-and-goat-

cheese salad and had a few bites

of salmon.

Nailed It: Before leaving to pick

up her daughter, Garner thanked

everyone, especially manicurist

Ashlie Johnson, who gave her,

she said, “the best manicure I’ve

ever had.” —LEXI NOVAK

Jennifer Garner

Garner’s look can be re-created with the following: Healthy

Lengths Mascara in Carbon Black, Crease Proof Eye

Shadow in Lasting Taupe, Healthy Skin Blends Natural

Radiance Bronzer in Sunkissed, and MoistureSmooth Color

Stick in Plum Perfect by Neutrogena. Silk-lace-and-

feather dress by Louis Vuitton. Photographed by Alexi

Lubomirski. Hair: Peter Gray. Makeup: Tyron Machhausen.

Manicure: Ashlie Johnson. Prop stylist: Thomas Thurnauer.

Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Cover Look

Makeup artist Tyron Machhausen touches up Garner’s lip color between takes.

Hair StoryHairstylist Peter Gray

prepped Garner’s

“amazingly thick hair”

with a smoothing heat-

protectant spray, then

combed through a

volumizing mousse. After

blow-drying it, Gray

wound sections of hair

around a one-and-a-half-

inch curling iron and

smoothed on a shine

serum. He softened the

curls with a wide-

tooth comb and pinned

a few pieces back.

For an exclusive video from

Garner’s shoot, download Allure

to your tablet.

Beyond the CoverGarner will appear in Dallas Buyers

Club this winter with

Matthew McConaughey and Jared

Leto. The actress is also a

spokeswoman for Neutrogena,

promoting its sun-safety initiatives,

and an ambassador for Save

the Children’s U.S. programs.

The actress’s Prada loafers

More Jennifer

To read what

Garner has to say about

Ben Affleck, go to

allure.com/go/Jennifer.

Garner and Allure creative director Paul Cavaco

Garner said that posing for this photograph for Allure’s September 2002 issue made her nervous, but now the image is one of her all-time favorites.

Photographer Alexi Lubomirski shoots the cover.

CHEEKS

Healthy Skin Blends Natural Radiance

Bronzer in Sunkissed by Neutrogena

LIPS

MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Plum Perfect by

Neutrogena

EYES

Healthy Lengths Mascara in Carbon Black and Crease Proof Eye Shadow in Lasting

Taupe by Neutrogena

Makeup Lesson“Shooting in this beautiful landscape, I wanted to show her as earthy and fresh as possible,” said makeup artist Tyron Machhausen.

1He blended a taupe cream eye shadow into the creases

and along the lower lashes, filled the upper lash lines with a dark brown pencil, and swiped on black mascara.

2The makeup artist swirled burnt sienna blush on

the apples of Garner’s cheeks.

3He lined her lips with a mauve pencil, smudging

the edges with a Q-tip, then applied a sheer mauve lipstick all over.


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Office Romanceround the time I started looking for a real job, a book called Dress

for Success was hugely popular. It was written as a guide, but I

took it as a warning. For men, success was easy: dark suit, white

shirt, yellow tie, shined shoes—and the fact that the author could

stretch this advice into a full-length book was almost Pulitzer-

worthy. For women, the formula required hiding your femininity

as if you were a cross-dresser in a Shakespeare play. I vaguely

remember an illustration in the book of a woman in a bob wear-

ing a shoulder-padded flight-attendant suit, white shirt, red bolo

tie, low-heeled pumps, and suntan-colored panty hose. Long before Sheryl

Sandberg and Lean In, this fashion advice alone was a powerful disincentive for

women entering the workforce.

Plenty of unfortunate bankers and lawyers felt obliged to follow this grim pre-

scription, but as they achieved a modicum of success, they grew confident enough

to abandon it and show a curve or two.

Still, everyone has a work uniform, albeit in less rigid, less mannish forms.

When I got the job at Allure, I believed I needed clothes that suited my position.

So I took my spanking fresh paycheck and bought a suit from Armani and one

from Chanel, which felt like a rite of passage into a grown-up world. I loved those

suits, and I wore them as if they had magical powers. What I lacked in experience

and confidence, I made up for in attire. Nevertheless, I might as well have been

wearing a costume from La Scala.

I’ve worn a real work uniform, and it wasn’t pretty. One summer in Martha’s

Vineyard, I was a maid at a rich guy’s house. He allowed me to vacuum and mow the

lawn in cutoffs and a T-shirt, but once the weekend guests arrived, I had to put on

a stiff white dress three sizes too big. That uniform changed everything. I immedi-

ately felt like a minion, and the fact that I had to pronounce the words “Dinner is

served” to the cocktail guests nearly undid me. I had to bite my cheek to keep from

giggling. Even though the job was temporary and didn’t in any way define me, that

uniform might as well have been a straitjacket.

Fashion this season is offering up uniforms, but they’re nothing like my

white shift or dress-for-success armor. There’s an ivory jacket and pleated skirt

from Calvin Klein and a femme-fatale suit with deep cuffs and dangerous curves

from Prada. There’s also a sneaky little pantsuit by Narciso Rodriguez that looks

nothing like Carrie Mathison’s in Homeland. They’re quirky and appealing and

almost defy the term “uniform.”

When they’re not prescribed or required, when they’re more open to interpre-

tation, uniforms solve the problem of how to get out the door in the morning. We

all want to reach into our closet, blurry eyed, and pluck out something fabulous

and effortless. Uniforms are now on the menu again. And dinner is served.

Linda Wells, Editor in Chief

Letter From the Editor|September ’13

With Connie Britton at the Fragrance Foundation Awards L

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BeautyReporter

ʎ�Lip Gloss Goes 3-Dʎ The Next BB Cream? ʎ Extreme Highlights

Usually, it’s the theatrical, over-the-top runway beauty looks that get all the attention.

But as designer Jason Wu told us before his fall show, “Some people do ugly really

well. I want to do pretty.” And it showed in every aspect of his collection—including

the hair (intricate as origami) and makeup (edgy but sophisticated). —SOPHIA PANYCH

Jason Wu

NailsWith such a vivid hue on the eyes,

Wu wanted to keep the nail color

simple. Manicurists filed the nails into a pristine

squoval shape and painted them a

glossy, creamy nude (we like Lancôme

Vernis in Love in Beige Dentelle,

shown).

More Jason Wu on

allure.comSee details from

Wu’s fall show at allure.com/go/

jason-wu.

HairHairstylist Odile

Gilbert created an Art Deco hairstyle with

the most utilitarian of accessories:

two silver Goody clips. Multiply that by

43 models, and there weren’t many left in

New York City. (Gilbert’s assistant

scoured Manhattan drugstores to find

86 of them.)

EyesWu showed makeup artist Diane Kendal

a fabric used in the collection and asked her to make an eye shadow to match.

She blended indigo and violet pigments for a shade with a metallic finish.

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http://allure.com/go/jason-wu

Beauty Reporter

A speedy brow tint, a cool glitter topcoat, a rose-scented spot lightener, and a perfect eye-shadow palette.

Orly Matte FX Lacquer.Take a matte topcoat, add small

flecks of multicolored glitter, and what do you get? An easy way to make basic polish a lot

more interesting.

“It looks edgy layered over black or navy polish.”

—Patricia Alfonso Tortolani, Allure beauty director

L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Eyeliners in Violet and Cobalt.

Technically, they’re eyeliners. But we like them as rich, bold shadows: Draw a thick line

along the upper lashes, smudge it toward the crease, and admire your ingenuity.

Giorgio Armani Rouge Ecstasy in Scarlatto.It feels like butter, keeps lips superhydrated, and delivers a wallop of intense, siren-y red that requires minimal touch-ups.

Dior 5-Couleurs Eyeshadow in Bonne Étoile.These five festive eye-shadow shades are infused with a generous dose of shimmer; we’ll wear every last one down to the pan.

allure.com: Get more daily favorites at allure.com/go/editors-favorites.

Lancôme DreamTone Corrector.It contains lipo hydroxy acid to tackle

hyperpigmentation, but this lotion (with formulas for fair, medium,

and dark skin tones) makes our skin smell so delicately rosy, the spot-correcting part is almost a bonus.

Editors’ Favorites

Benefit Gimme Brow in Medium/Deep.

The tiny wand deposits a fiber-gel formula on

individual hairs so brows look fuller and thicker, but

totally natural (also available in Light/Medium).

Toni & Guy Shine Gloss Serum.This light serum controls frizz, adds shine, and smells so refreshing (like citrusy ginger ale) that we want to invent more reasons to use it.

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http://allure.com

http://allure.com/go/editors-favorites

Beauty Reporter

Silk gown by Jason Wu. Cuff by Joan Hornig. Makeup colors: Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes in Ample Amber, Chubby Stick Intense Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Mightiest Maraschino, and A Different Nail Enamel in Red Red Red by Clinique. Hair: Teddy Charles. Makeup: Makky P. Manicure: Sheril Bailey. Prop stylist: Jason Curtis. Photographed by Jason McDonald. Fashion editor: Jarrod Lacks. Details, see Shopping Guide.

English actress Dormer has a

gift for seduction. As Anne

Boleyn on The Tudors, she was

the medieval minx who

transformed Europe. And on the

addictive Game of Thrones, the

31-year-old is a shrewd player

cloaked in sylphlike innocence.

This month she appears in Rush,

about European Formula 1

racing in its 1970s heyday.

Do you like to drive? “I love

to drive. My present to

myself from The Tudors was a

red Mazda MX5 hard-top

convertible. I loved that car,

and also what she represented—

my first success.”

Automatic or standard?

“Come on, you’re talking to a

European. None of this

automatic bollocks. You’ve got

to feel the car, feel the gears.”

How do you explain the

Game of Thrones mania?

“There’s the violence and the

bloodletting and the honor.

And then there’s the romance

and the sex and the naked

bodies. There are the

costumes, and the coming-of-

age stories for younger

viewers. There are gay heroes

and straight heroes. There’s

feminism. And there’s dragons

and supernatural shit going

on. There’s magic and CGI

for the geeks. There is literally

something for everyone.”

You’ve done your fair share of nudity. Is it ever a challenge? “It’s always a bit

traumatic. Being comfortable

with your body is not the same

thing as feeling completely at

ease doing a sex scene. I’m

comfortable with my body, but

to do nudity [as part of your

job] is sometimes not as easy

as you’d like it to be.”

—DAVID DENICOLO

Allure’s Face

Natalie Dormer

With Chris Hemsworth in Rush

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“The citrus makes it a little crisp and sharp. There’s

a light floral smell, like lilies, but the acidity

brings freshness to it.”—Dominique Ansel, owner and

chef, Dominique Ansel Bakery

“This is a scent a young, sophisticated woman would appreciate. As it dries down,

it doesn’t smell as fruity.” —Katie Chang, owner, Miomia

“My first impression is of overly ripe fruit, like

really soft red apple skins. It’s sweet and feminine.” —Carla Rzeszewski, wine

director, the Breslin,

the John Dory Oyster Bar,

and the Spotted Pig

▲

Calvin KleinDowntownTHE NOTES: Pear, plum,

bergamot, violet leaf,

and incense.

THE EXPERTS: A New York

City beauty boutique

owner, pastry chef, and

sommelier.

—ALEXANDRA OWENS

Smell This

Beauty Reporter

3-D Lip GlossIn the tube, these look like run-of-the-mill glittery glosses. Spread them on lips,

however, and the effects are otherworldly: The metallic formulas are flecked

with tiny iridescent particles that seem to change color depending on how much

you apply and the light you’re wearing them in. “The shimmery pigments are

contained in water that is suspended in oil,” says cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson.

“That way they appear to be inside the gloss rather than just on the surface,

giving them that 3-D effect.” Our picks: Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar

in Black Metal Dahlia (shown above, top), a dark berry with a bright red sheen;

Shiseido Makeup Lacquer Rouge in GD 817 (center), a shiny yellow- and rose-gold

with nude shimmer; and Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture in 104 (bottom),

a prismatic combination of deep pink and pearlescent shimmer. —SOPHIA PANYCH

Beauty Buzzword

SplashlightsNoun: A horizontal band of bleached hair that

stretches from ear to ear.

This hair-color effect is unlike anything we’ve seen—and for New

York City colorist Aura Friedman, that’s the point. She wanted to

duplicate the effect of “a laser beam hitting you in a certain

spot.” Starting with the undermost layers, Friedman paints

bleach in a small section. Then she covers all the hair above and

below the bleach with a color close to the hair’s natural shade.

Expect to be wearing it in 2069. —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL

Read full reviews of these new glosses—and many more—at allure.com/go/product-finder.

allure.comMore glosses on

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Beauty Reporter

An anti-aging serum, a multitasker for hair, and a topcoat King Midas would love: The first 500 Allure readers to sign up at noon EDT on the dates below will get one free. Visit allure.com/go/free-stuff for details. —JENNA ROSENSTEIN

Free Stuff

September 3 Pureology Colour Fanatic. This spray promises solutions to 21 hair problems. We’re partial to these two: protection against color fading and frizz control.

September 6 Zoya Professional Lacquer in Maria Luisa. It creates a glittery effect on painted nails; two coats makes them look like they were covered in gold leaf.

▲▲

▲▲

Shiseido Makeup Luminizing

Satin Eye Color Trio in Lido

Algenist Advanced Anti-Aging Repairing Oil

allure.comProduct ReviewWhat it is: A face oil that helps make fine lines

and wrinkles less apparent over time

What it does: Boosts hydration and softness

with ceramides and microalgae oil, which

contains omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acids

Key ingredients: Microalgae oil and ceramides

(moisturizers); brown algae lipid extract

(antioxidant); essential oil (fragrance)

How it feels/smells/looks: This pale yellow

oil feels silky and absorbs in seconds. It has

a pleasant (nonfishy!) citrus scent.

Why we like it: “Microalgae is rich in oleic

acid, which is very emollient. And

studies have shown that algae is high in

antioxidants, which help both the

cellular-repair process and microcirculation,”

says dermatologist Jeannette Graf. “Those

with combination skin could use this in place

of their regular moisturizer. But people with

really dry skin will probably need something

extra.” Our acne-prone tester, who’s tried

dozens of facial oils, appreciated that it didn’t

leave her skin feeling coated in grease,

and thought her frown lines looked less

pronounced after two weeks of daily use.

—LINDSAY COLAMEO

➥For more product reviews, go to allure.com/go/product-finder.

The Inspiration“We were staying in Venice for an

advertising campaign for Missoni and took a boat to Lido

to shoot near the high sand dunes. It was of season, so the beach club was deserted. It has

the blue, melancholic feel of the beach at the end of the day.”

Rhapsody in Blues “However out-there or abstract or

intense the color family I’m working with, it’s got to live on the

face. There’s no point in me creating color if no one wears it.”

The Paint Swatches

“I play around with the color groupings that I’ve painted and put

them together to see what harmonizes, what contrasts. These

become the palettes.”

The Palette “The blues can be taken in a very

summery, bright, easy way, but the darker teal is actually kind of intense. You can get a hard-core

smoky-eye efect using that.”

Check it out! Dick Page shares his best makeup tricks and answers reader questions at allure.com/go/dick-page.

September 4 Blisslabs Essential Active Serum. Retinoids, niacinamide, kojic acid: This contains everything you need to tackle fine lines and discoloration.

September 5 StriVectin Antioxidant Defense Lotion. This lightweight moisturizer contains NIA-114 (a form of vitamin B

3) and reduces

redness with soothing oat-kernel extract.

A craggy coastline, a deserted

beach club, irregular floor tiles:

These are sources of inspiration

for makeup artist Dick Page’s

eye-shadow palettes for Shiseido,

including Lido, a trio of moody blues. “I don’t

think there’s any idiot like me that works like

this,” says Page, who sends his photographs

and hand-painted color samples to Shiseido’s

lab, where technicians turn each into cosmetic

reality. “I find harmonious combinations in

nature or cityscapes. By the time the palette is

finalized, I know these colors inside out. I’ve

lived with them a long time.” —MEIRAV DEVASH

Behind the Makeup

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Burnished GoldGold is usually regal and

important, or bright

and bling-y, but burnished

gold is dark and smoky

and cool. When you wear

such a potent shade

on your eyes, you need to

commit to a thick stripe

along the upper lashes

rather than a timid flick of color. Jouer Liquid Shimmer

Eyeliner in Lynx (below, top), Smashbox Waterproof

Shadow Liner in Black Gold (middle), and Clinique

Chubby Stick in Whopping Willow (bottom) are as

sexy as gold gets. —DANIELLE PERGAMENT

Color of the Moment

Peach and Lily

Tip: For Gisele-level

volume, Josh targets the roots, lifting

them with his fingers as he blows them

dry for four minutes. “The wide nozzle

lets more air shoot through the roots,”

he says.

Personal Shopper

MORE SHADES

Find your perfect gold shadow

at allure.com/go/product-finder.

The Bombshell Blowout

When car salesmen talk about high-powered engines and luxury

craftsmanship, they’re usually blowing hot air. For hairstylist

Harry Josh, who tends to Gisele’s strands, that’s the point.

We took his new blow-dryer for a test-drive. —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL

SpeedBlasting air at 80 mph,

it almost cut our drying

time in half. And so

did this trick from Josh:

Before every blowout,

he divides hair

into quarters and clips

them into buns. He

blow-dries one section

at a time, focusing

on the back two first.

“Your shoulders might

get tired, but the

hardest part is out of

the way,” he says.

WavesTo create Gisele’s

sexy bends, Josh rolls

two-to-three-inch

sections around a

two-inch round

brush from ends to

midlengths in

alternating sections.

Then he hits the

hair with the cool-shot

button while it’s still

wrapped around the

brush. “That locks

the waves in place so it

stays bouncy,” he says.

VolumeIons are great for

smoothing frizzy,

unruly hair, Josh says.

“But if someone wants

body—like Kate

Bosworth or Karolina

Kurkova—I need a

nonionic dryer.” So his

dryer has an on/of ion

switch: Use the ionic

setting on frizz-

prone areas, like your

hairline; flip back to

the regular setting for

the rest of your hair.

Use the wide nozzle (it comes

with two) for a bodacious supermodel

blowout.

The Far East has always been fertile ground for beauty trends, such as

spot lighteners, sheet masks, even fish pedicures. Peach and Lily, an

online emporium that carries the coolest, most unusual beauty

products from South Korea and Japan, connects women with the best

of those trends. Creators Alicia Yoon and Cindy Kim share some of

their favorite finds. —ANNE-MARIE GUARNIERI

1. Clio Eye Guard

Waterproof Liner: “Asian

women love a natural face with

a very thin line above the

lashes,” says Yoon. “This

ergonomic grip allows you to

get that kind of precision.”

2. Binchotan Facial Puff

and Facial Soap: “They both

contain charcoal powder,

used for centuries by Asian

women to pull dirt from their

skin. The puff is made from

konjac-root fibers. It exfoliates

so gently, mothers use it on

their babies,” Kim says.

3. Aromatica Rose Absolute

First Serum: “In Asia, women

use up to 15 skin-care products

a day, and they’re religious about

toner and serum,” says Yoon.

“This combines those two steps

into one product to save time.”

4. Mizon Returning Starfish

Cream: “Starfish extract is

great for firming and

keeping skin hydrated,” says

Yoon. “Korean scientists

discovered that starfish contain

a high concentration of

collagen and calcium, which

helps them regenerate.”

Beauty Reporter

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Beauty Reporter

Pretty, Easy

Katy Perry on her new fragrance, Killer Queen, a blend of plum,

jasmine, powdery musk, and praline. —ANNE-MARIE GUARNIERI

“My very first memory is the smell of fresh diapers. I must have been a toddler, but I remember that my diapers had blue and red Mickeys and Minnies printed on them—and a powdery smell. This new fragrance, Killer Queen, will always remind me of being 28—and it being a time when I learned lessons and let go of childish things.”

Queen P

25%Clara Bow (pouty lips)

55%Debbie Harry

(bleached-out hair)

20%Joan Jett

(tough-girl glare)

+ + =

Who’s That Girl?

More makeup colors on

allure.comFor the most gorgeous shades for your eye color, visit allure.com/ go/makeup-looks.

It’s the Zen koan of beauty: How can you

wear makeup that looks like you’re not

wearing any? The Bobbi & Katie Palette may

hold the answer. Bobbi Brown, who built

her career on subtle shades of brown, and

Katie Holmes, who built her career as Joey

Potter (enough said), collaborated to choose

the perfect no-makeup makeup essentials.

There’s a handy chocolate brown eye pencil,

neutral shadows with just enough shimmer

to make them interesting, and two Pot Rouge

lip and cheek tints that Holmes wanted

to be able to apply with her fingers. But our

favorite part: At $68, this palette costs

just $2 more than buying three of Brown’s

single eye shadows. —ALEXANDRA TUNELL

Sky FerreiraThe model-DJ-singer has a new EP on the way (I Will) and a style

that’s equal parts sexy, grungy, and cool. —A.M.G.


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There’s a new school of

thought that encour-

ages playing around

with perfume. Many

fragrances are now

pared down and per-

fect for layering— meaning you

can combine two, three, or even

four for a totally fresh and deeply

personal scent. But you can also

experiment with fragrances you

already own, putting brand-new

twists on perennial favorites.

“It’s a way to truly express your

personality,” says Chris Wyatt, the

global education director at Jo

Malone London and a fan of lay-

ering. The key is knowing which

notes work together and how

to subtly enhance them. Follow

these guidelines and indulge your

creative side, and you could be

wearing the season’s hottest new

fragrance—your own. —LEXI NOVAK

Personalize Your

Perfume

Beauty101 Creating an entirely new scent is a simple matter of layering the right notes.

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Bulletin

The New Military Style ʎ�Fall’s Best Booties ʎ�One Cool Cape

Oscar de

la Renta Jacquard gown, silk sandals, gloves, and crystal earrings

ANN TAYLOR

satin shoes, $98 (anntaylor.com).

MARCIANO

polyester-blend jacket, $298

(marciano.com).

EMPORIO ARMANI

velvet clutch, $795 (armani.com).

A vibrant, flowery hodgepodge outside the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan

TORY BURCH

cotton-and-velvet coat, $850, at

Tory Burch, N.Y.C. (212-510-8371).

Print ConditionBy Siobhan Bonnouvrier

This season’s most arresting styles are completely off the wall. That’s

because designers took inspiration from flocked wallpaper, a

seventeenth-century invention beloved by decoratorsÑand designersÑ

for its rich, opulent, and multidimensional qualities. With its pattern

of flames and roses, Oscar de la Renta’s bell-shaped gown can easily

dominate the roomÑand floor a few guests. And the gold, bronze, and

silvery green ferns on Gucci’s long-sleeved dress boldly outshine

any centerpiece. Just remember: Patent-leather pumps, crisp button-

down shirts, and tailored pants balance these Baroque looks.

GUCCI

silk dress, $4,200 (gucci.com).

BANANA REPUBLIC

polyester-blend pants, $89.50

(bananarepublic.com).

VERA WANG

wool-blend dress, $1,695, at Vera Wang,

N.Y.C. (212-382-2184).

Anne Hathaway in Los Angeles

PETUNIA

HANDBAGS

velvet bag with leather trim, $282

(petunia.com).

J.CREW

viscose top, $278 (jcrew.com).

Fashion

VINCE CAMUTO

satin top, $99 (vincecamuto.com).

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Fashion CravingsAttennnntion!

Olive green and camouflage take a strong commanding turn.

MUSTMARCIANO

wool nylon coat, $368, at

Marciano stores.

LUST3.1 PHILLIP LIM

rabbit-fur sweater, $995

(31philliplim.com).

MUSTSANDRO

mohair sweater, $340

(sandro-paris.com).

LUSTPROENZA SCHOULER

leather clutch, $2,245, at Proenza Schouler,

N.Y.C. (212-585-3200).

MUSTGALIAN

canvas clutch, $42 (galian.com).

LUSTBELSTAFF

wool-and-leather coat, $2,450

(belstaff.com).

MUSTGUESS

satin-and-patent-leather heels, $110 (guess.com).

MUSTEXPRESS

stretch jeans, $79.90, at Express stores.

LUSTMICHAEL KORS

silk polyester pants, $895, at select

Michael Kors stores.

MUSTMcGINN

cotton-blend jacket, $216 (houseoflolo.com).

MUSTCITIZEN

stainless-steel-and-canvas watch, $145

(amazon.com).LUSTJASON WU

cotton-leather-and- raccoon-fur jacket,

$3,670 (net-a-porter.com).

LUSTESQ MOVADO

stainless steel watch, $495

(esqmovado.com).

Lanvin

Fall 2013

LUSTMICHAEL KORS

calf-hair-and-leather heels, $425, at select Michael Kors Collection stores.

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The perfect day bag gets even more ladylike with coin-purse closures, gold

hardware, and a dash of embellishment.

It’s Handled

Fashion Extras

RALPH LAUREN

COLLECTION

leather bag, $3,500 (ralphlauren

collection.com).

VIONNET

leather bag, $1,995 (vionnet.com).

KATE SPADE

NEW YORK

leather-and-flannel bag, $298 (katespade.com).

MIU MIU

wool bag, $1,790, at select Miu Miu stores.

BOTTEGA VENETA

raffia-wool-and-snakeskin bag,

$4,600, at Bottega Veneta stores.

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Fashion Extras

LOEFFLER RANDALL

leather-and-cotton-blend booties, $475

(loefflerrandall.com).

BOTTEGA VENETA

goat-skin booties, $950

(bottegaveneta.com).

CHLOÉ

leather-and-lizard-skin

booties, $1,195, at Bergdorf

Goodman, N.Y.C. (212-872-8708).

TOMMY

HILFIGER

leather booties, $349, at Tommy Hilfiger, N.Y.C.

(212-223-1824).

DONNA KARAN

NEW YORK

printed-leather booties, $1,095, at select Donna

Karan stores.

GUCCI

leather booties, $995

(gucci.com).

Bootie CallMen’s-inspired shapes—and all-woman heels—make these boots doubly sexy.

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Fashion Expert

10 Beautiful Things

Giambattista ValliThe Italian

designer launched his label in 2005.

2. A tailor. “Beautiful clothes are nothing if the proportions

are off, and no one knows proportions like a tailor.”

4. Giambattista Valli coat and pants. “It’s like she stole this from a man, but the tail in the back is feminine.”

1. A Giambattista Valli bag. “An architectural bag provides structure. One click and you open a woman’s private universe.” Leather bag, $2,290, at Capitol, Charlotte, North Carolina (704-366-0388).

3. L’Avventura, directed by Michelangelo Antonioni. “There is something special about Antonioni’s women—quintessential Italian style.”

9. The

Pillow Book by Sei Shonagon. “Written about 1,000 years ago in Japan, it’s about beauty and emotion. Every woman should read it.”

10. Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon’s.

“It’s much more sensual for a woman to wear a men’s cologne. This with a

white shirt is the sexiest thing.” $125 for 100 ml (penhaligons.com).

8. Birkenstock-style sandals. “I love the idea of a boyish look that’s glamorous. Heels are nice, but flats are cool. And everyone does high heels.” Giambattista Valli leather sandals, $850, at Nuages, Aspen (970-925-6569).

6. Jewelry from Luigi Scialanga. “Luxury is a one-of-a-kind piece.” Antique jade pendant, $10,000, at Giambattista Valli, Paris (33-1-40-17-05-88).

5. A Mercedes-Benz. “The front is so chic and long. It takes up two parking spaces.”

Giambattista Valli Fall 2013

“Ugh, please, no. No, no, no.” This is what Giambattista Valli

thinks of trends. “When I hear that something is trendy,

I want to do the opposite,” he says. Valli, a native Roman

who now works in Paris, specializes in richly detailed

party dresses with ruffles and beading. This season, he

has imported elements of menswear—“a mix of two

wardrobes,” as he describes the fusion—to create loose-

fitting parkas with conspicuous zippers and draped

chiffon skirts worn with Vans-style sneakers. “My

muses, my Valli girls, have grown up, gotten married,

had children, and my collection has grown up, too,”

says the designer. Valli counsels women to choose

just a few pieces each season and to keep them for

years. “We make so many clothes, all of us in the fashion

world,” he says. But that doesn’t mean you need them

all. “What matters is how you mix them up and wear

them in different ways. The beauty of fashion is that it is

about style, not clothing.” —DANIELLE PERGAMENT

7. Giambattista Valli (Rizzoli). “I would never do a book

that’s a self-celebration. This is about the designing process—

obsession, inspiration, method—that anyone can relate to.”

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FENDI

calf-hair bootie with mink trim,

$1,700, at Fendi, N.Y.C. (212-759-4646).

Fashion Cult Object

Whoa!With its bristling mane and fat blue zebra stripes, this multitextured

bootie strikes a cocky profile. Fendi showed it as part of a fur-driven fall collection, one in which runway models wore dyed-fox

Mohawks and even the sunglasses were plushed up with little pelts. The body of the bootie is calf hair, the trim is mink, and the heel, a miracle

of mirrored scaffolding, delivers just the right kick. —FRANCES LITTLE DA

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The coolest jacket this season is actually a cape. Six fashionable women make the trend their own. By Alexandra Owens

Sunglasses “My sunglasses from

The Row are a summery

touch for fall.”

Shoes“There’s a coziness to

the texture of these

Prada suede pumps.”

Dress“The Row’s sheath

dress could be

really boring, but it’s

cut so beautifully.”

Bag “The classic shape of

this Mulberry bag is

never going to age.”

Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Stubbs & Wootton slippers.”

BAG: “Mulberry.” JEANS: “The Row

jean leggings.” LINGERIE: “Cosabella.”

STYLE ROLE MODEL: “Diana Vreeland.”

LIP COLOR: “Rose Lip Balm.”

FRAGRANCE: “Yann Vasnier lets me

test his new fragrances. I love his

ones for Tom Ford.” NAIL POLISH:

“Chanel Vamp.” MASCARA: “YSL.” SKIN

CARE: “Caudalie moisturizer.”

32, brand consultant and stylist

For Kim, a self-described minimalist,

the real pleasure of dressing is in the

details. “Some people like to go

outside the box with accessories,” she

says. “A pink bag is an easy fix to

spice up your outfit, but I’d rather keep

mine classic and simple.” LaCrasia

gloves, a chunky vintage gold necklace,

and understated Prada pumps give

a “ladylike touch” to the cape, while a

dress by The Row is “feminine

with a bit of edge.” ”The leather makes

it not look so ‘businesswoman in the

‘80s with sneakers.’”

Suekay Kim

An unexpected piece of

outerwear is being rein-

troduced to the coat

check. Capes have been

making a comeback on

the runway and the red carpet, as

seen at Derek Lam and Oscar de la

Renta and draped on Gwyneth Pal-

trow’s shoulders at the Oscars. We

asked six women to give Lauren

Ralph Lauren’s plaid wool cape their

own style. Wool cape, $365, at Lord

& Taylor stores.

User’s Guide To Style

Fashion Sense

Jewelry“This vintage gold

necklace adds

some extra polish

to the cape.”

Gloves“I like long gloves as

an alternative to long

sleeves.”

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Caldwell (left) has a checkered history with

capes. “Three years ago I bought a black cape

on eBay,” she says. “But it went into storage

because I couldn’t wear it without looking too

preppy.” This time, she didn’t try to hide

her playful style, selecting a vintage Pee-wee

Herman T-shirt and A.P.C. camouflage

pants. “The worst thing you could do is force

a look that doesn’t match your personality.

My posture is different when I’m wearing

something I don’t feel comfortable in.”

Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Keds.” JEWELRY: “My Bing Bang

cuff ring—my hands are the focus

when I’m DJing.” BAG: “I use a Barbour

tote as a diaper bag.” LINGERIE:

“VPL.” MASSAGE: “Great Jones Spa.”

HAIRSTYLIST: “Dailey at H2 Salon in

Brooklyn.” FRAGRANCE: “Diptyque Tam

Dao.” VACATION SPOT: “Paraguay.”

Lindsey Caldwell

30, designer, Veda

For Butler (right), every fall look begins with a leather jacket and

boots. And a cape wasn’t going to change that. “I didn’t know

how to wear it at first,” she says. “I didn’t want to look like Eloise.”

So she incorporated the cape into her “downtown style” —

doubling up on the outerwear and layering the cape over ripped

Levi’s and a Veda motorcycle jacket to appear “more undone.”

Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Balenciaga.” BAG: “Céline.” JEANS: “Acne.”

LINGERIE: “Elle Macpherson Intimates.” FACIALIST:

“Christine Chin.” HAIRSTYLIST: “Lena Ott at

Suite Caroline.” LIP COLOR: “Nars Russian Doll.” NAIL

POLISH: “Anything by Butter London.” MASCARA:

“Bobbi Brown.” SKIN CARE: “Aveeno Positively Radiant.”

VACATION SPOT: “My family’s ranch in Argentina.”

Lyndsey Butler

Glasses“My Moscot glasses

are a vintage pair

the store had on a

dusty shelf.”

Top“A plain white

top would be too

boring—and

there’s never a

bad time for

this Pee-wee

Herman T-shirt.”

Pants“A.P.C. camouflage

pants toughen up

the look so it isn’t too

preppy or girlie.”

Shoes“These jelly heels by

Melissa + Alexandre

Herchcovitch are sexy

without seeming like I take

myself too seriously.”

Boots “The green snakeskin on

these Dries van Noten

boots makes every outfit

seem more special—it’s

a little unexpected.”

Sunglasses“These Moscot

frames fit my small

face without being

overwhelming.”

Jacket “I wanted to mix the

texture of the

leather with the

wool cape.”

Jeans“My vintage Levi’s are

on their last legs. I like

the high-and-low mix

of the shiny boots and

ripped-up jeans.”

Fashion Sense

Bag“I don’t carry a

fancy purse unless

I’m going out,

and this Chanel

one is perfect.”

Nails“Naomi Yasuda at

Hello Beautiful Salon

in Brooklyn did

my tie-dye nails.”

Top“I had to wear my

boyfriend’s Surface

to Air button-down

shirt because

he borrowed mine!”

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32, designer, Jen Kao

“I always like to work outside of my

comfort zone,” says Kao. “Sometimes I

pick fabrics that scare me because I want

to see what I can do with them.” That’s

exactly how she challenged herself with

the wool cape, wrapping and pinning it

into a deconstructed skirt to create “a

reinterpretation of ’90s grunge.” Kao

also tried converting the cape into a

flannel shirt and a baby-doll dress. “I love

pieces that are multifunctional.”

Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Alaïa.” BAG: “Jil Sander

leather backpack.” JEANS: “BLK DNM.”

LINGERIE: “La Perla.” STYLE ROLE

MODELS: “Patti Smith and Diane

Keaton.” MASSAGE: “A house call from

Bobby Carlson.” FACIAL: “The

Mandarin Oriental.” HAIRSTYLIST:

“Patricia Aherne at Privé.” LIP COLOR:

“Carmex Moisture Plus.” MASCARA:

“Clé de Peau.” SKIN CARE: “Shu

Uemura Cleansing Beauty Oil.”

VACATION SPOT: “Bali or Cambodia.”

Jen Kao

Clutch“This green-stained

wooden clutch

from my resort

collection adds just

a touch of color.”

Boots“I have a love of Dr.

Martens, but I

decided on these

Chanel military

boots, which have

a modern twist.”

Hat“In the fall, I wear

a beanie, like this

one from Arth,

almost every day.

It’s such an easy

accessory.”

Jacket“My Jen Kao

jacket adds some

structure. It’s

vinyl—I like

kitschy design

sometimes.”

Fashion Sense

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27, Bloomberg TV technology reporter

and documentary filmmaker

No matter where she travels, Crane (left) is

always on the hunt. “I once did a show about

flea markets,” she says. “Now, whenever

I travel, I try to pick up an item that reminds

me of that place.” Even if they’re not vintage,

Crane favors pieces with “old-fashioned

character,” like these Moscot sunglasses—

and capes. “I actually own three.”

Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Tod’s driving shoes.” BAG:

“Chloé.” JEANS: “J Brand.” LINGERIE: “When

you’re having a bad day, it’s nice to

stroll into Journelle.” STYLE ROLE MODEL:

“Kate Bosworth.” MASSAGE: “Shibui

Spa at the Greenwich Hotel.” FACIALIST:

“My dermatologist, Michele Green.”

LIP COLOR: “M.A.C. Fast Play.” NAIL POLISH:

“OPI Barefoot in Barcelona.” MASCARA:

“Benefit Bad Gal.” SKIN CARE: “Clarins

Double Serum.” VACATION SPOT: “San

Ysidro Guest Ranch in Santa Barbara.”

Rachel Crane

33, market director, style.com

Larroudé (right) plays with extravagant clothing for shoots,

but when dressing herself, she prefers casual staples. Here,

she toned down the cape with Genetic jeans and Gianvito

Rossi pumps. “I wanted to do something real,” she says.

Larroudé’s editorial eye did help when she tried the cape

with a pencil skirt. “Maybe if I were taller, like Gisele.”

Favorite ThingsSHOES: “Manolo Blahnik.” JEWELRY: “Wilfredo Rosado

doesn’t look too precious.” LINGERIE: “Calvin Klein.”

MASSAGE: “Sense Spa at the Carlyle.” FACIALIST:

“Emilia K. at Dr. Jon Turk’s office.” LIP COLOR: “I have

a Clarins Lip Perfector in every bag.” FRAGRANCE:

“Chanel No. 5—I always go back.” MASCARA:

“Lancôme.” VACATION SPOT: “Turks and Caicos.”

Marina Larroudé

Top“The H&M top is

short and thin, so

when you tuck it in

it’s not too bulky.”

Bag“Even though it’s

small, my Céline

purse actually

fits a lot.”

Jewelry“I try to wear

something that’s been

given to me by

somebody I love, like

this necklace with an

old coin my boyfriend

found in Greece.”

Boots“I always have a

camera in my hand

or in front of me—my

Tod’s boots are so

comfortable, I wear

them for both roles.”

Fashion Sense

Bag“I prefer bags with

minimal logos

and hardware, like

this one from

Calvin Klein.”

Jeans “These Genetic

jeans are so

stretchy, you

could wear them

all day.”

Top “J.Crew merino

cashmere

sweaters are

warm but light.”

Sunglasses“The color blends

in with my hair, so

they don’t stand

out too much.”

Skirt“This Steven Alan

skirt reminds me of

a schoolgirl uniform,

which suits the

preppy cape.”

Shoes“Gianvito Rossi

isn’t too crazy or

over-the-top.”

Jewelry“When I got

married, my

grandmother

gave me her

vintage Rolex.”

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Zeroing in on the perfect blazer or a one-in-

a-million vintage find isn’t just a talent—

it’s a career. Hollywood’s top stylists reveal

their shopping strategies. By Brooke Le Poer Trench

Stylist Secrets:Shopping Like a Pro

Kate Beckinsale in Los Angeles

Fashion Advice

Ashley Olsen in New York City

Emma Roberts in Los Angeles

Anne Hathaway and a friend in New York City

Jessica Alba in Beverly Hills

Khloé Kardashian in New York City

Kate Mara in West Hollywood

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Top Stylists

Cher CoulterHas worked with Nicole

Richie, Kate Bosworth, and Elizabeth Olsen

George KotsiopoulosHas worked with Zooey

Deschanel, Kerry Washington, and Freida Pinto

Nicole ChavezHas worked with Kristen

Bell, Rachel Bilson, and Catherine Zeta-Jones

Penny LovellHas worked with Rose Byrne, Mary Elizabeth Winstead, and

Bella Heathcote

Lawren HowellHas worked with Emma Stone,

Jennifer Lawrence, and Jennifer Garner

Kate YoungHas worked with Michelle

Williams, Natalie Portman, and Rachel Weisz

Check the label. “Look for

designs by Thierry Mugler and

Jean Paul Gaultier from the late

’80s and early ’90s—so many

recent collections hark back to

that period,” says Coulter, who

also snaps up anything by Zandra

Rhodes and Ossie Clark.

Mind the details. Don’t bother

with basics. “I’m always on the

lookout for unique prints,” says

Coulter, who goes for colorful

Pucci prints from the ’70s, Zandra

Rhodes floral dresses from the

’80s, and patterned Hermès pieces

from any era.

Grab bags. You can’t go wrong

with old bags from key designers,

says Coulter. “Chanel, Gucci, and

Yves Saint Laurent have always

made beautiful bags with great

hardware,” she says.

Watch your step. Be picky about

shoes. “Anything before the

’70s tends to look frumpy, and

you can’t tailor or modernize

shoes like you can clothing,” says

Coulter, who buys the odd

pair of spike heels from the ’80s.

“Otherwise, I’m into cowboy

boots. They look disgusting when

they’re new, but after two decades

of wear, they’re amazing.”

Cinch it. Coulter looks for leather

or exotic-skin belts that are

about an inch wide with heavy,

detailed buckles: “I recently

bought an incredible black suede

belt with a gold lion-head clasp—

for $25,” she says.

Fashion Advice

Great style is more democratic than it seems. “You don’t need to wear

head-to-toe designer,” says stylist Cher Coulter, who works with Kate

Bosworth and Nicole Richie. “In fact, that’s exactly what you don’t want

to do.” The secret to a truly cool outfit is mixing old and new, high

and low. It’s harder than it sounds (or stylists wouldn’t rake in the big

bucks), but some guiding principles make it a little easier. “Start with

well-fitting staples—jeans that elongate, a sharp black blazer, the perfect white shirt,”

says Coulter. Then add in a little of your own personality: “A worn vintage belt over a

floral sundress; a leather jacket you’ve had for years over a designer dress.” Here, top

stylists share their shopping strategies. The freedom of expression is up to you.

When someone says, “Oh, this? It’s vintage,” the subtext is clear: You will never own

this. And that’s exactly why stylists love vintage shopping. “We want pieces no one

else has,” says Coulter. “Plus, if you know how to spot a gem, you can save money.”

How to Shop for Vintage Clothes

1KNITS

“Cheap sweaters tend to pill within a few months,” says Coulter.

“Mainly because they’re not 100 percent wool or cashmere.”

2BOOTS

“For hard-wearing winter shoes like flat boots, spend more and

you’ll have them for years rather than months,” says Coulter.

3LEATHER

“You only have to buy a leather jacket once,” says stylist Kate Young. “The more you wear it, the better it looks and feels.”

3Things to Splurge On

Sarah Jessica Parker in a vintage dress

Michael Kors cashmere

sweater, $1,195, at select Michael

Kors stores.

Christian Louboutin

leather boots, $1,775, at Christian

Louboutin, N.Y.C. (212-396-1884). Reed Krakoff

leather bomber jacket, $2,990

(reedkrakoff.com).

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Fashion Advice

A great blazer can polish your look instantly.

According to Coulter, the most flattering cut

skims your arms so they look slim and nips in

at the waist. Stick to two buttons and one vent.

And hem it if need be: ÒThe jacket should end

at the bottom of your hip bonesÑjust an inch

longer, and it can look a little bulky,Ó she says. And donÕt for-

get comfort: ÒIt should look tailored but feel quite soft when

you handle itÑstiff fabric is the worst.Ó Coulter likes wool for

day and crepe for night. And buy a stand-alone blazer rather

than one half of a suit: ÒTheyÕre designed to be worn with a

variety of pieces, so the proportions are usually better.Ó

Three Ways To Wear It

1Sweetly does it. ÒI love a blazer

over a feminine chiffon dress,Ó says

stylist Nicole Chavez. ÒItÕs a nice

way to mix those two looksÑsomething

soft against something structured.Ó

2After 8. ÒIÕm a big fan of leath-

er pants worn with a black wool

blazer,Ó says Coulter, who likes

the ones from Elizabeth and James and

Isabel Marant. ÒIÕd wear them with black

pointy heels and chunky gold jewelry.Ó

3Showing leg. A classic blazer

makes shorts look more sophis-

ticated. ÒI like shorts that are tai-

lored and neat,Ó says stylist Lawren

Howell, who suggests wearing them

with a tucked-in silk blouse. ÒThe look is

pretty, but the silhouette is sharp.Ó

The Perfect

Black Blazer

Model Anja Rubik balances an oversize jacket with skintight pants and towering heels.

Style blogger Elin Kling’s leather pants help dress up her blazer for evening.

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Fashion AdviceHow to

Make Cheap Clothes Look

ExpensiveÒEveryone throws something

cheap in the mix,Ó says Howell. ÒThatÕs just how people

dress these days.Ó

1Add metal. “Gold accessories

make cheap clothes look good,”

says Howell. “If you’re going to

wear a statement piece, like a large

Céline choker, keep it to that. For

smaller accessories, you can layer.”

2Keep it simple. An outfit that

is clean and minimal is more

likely to look high-end because

“embellishment can look really cheap

if it isn’t done well,” says Lovell, who

likes to combine a simple black dress

with a thin leather belt and heels.

3Watch for static. “Let fabric be

your guide,” says Coulter. “I wear

a lot of Topshop, Asos, and Zara,

but I tend to stick to cotton. If a fabric

creates static, it will be uncomfortable

to wear and probably look cheap.”

4Do the milkshake. “Look at

it from all angles and make sure

you can sit comfortably in it,”

says Howell. “Watch it as you move.

If you’re still not sure, snap a photo

and send it to a friend whose opinion

you trust.” Coulter notes that well-

fitting tailored pieces are harder to

find: “Casual cuts, like a button-down

shirt, a simple tea dress, or slouchy

pants, are your best bet.”

TOPSHOP “My favorite cotton floral tea

dresses are all from Topshop,” says Coulter. “I have so many because the

prints are gorgeous.”

J.CREW “I’m in love with their

sharp wool blazer with gold buttons,” says Coulter.

“They do one every season, and it’s an instant classic.”

ZARA

“Their jeans, T-shirts, and tailored pants are well cut,

and no one knows they came from a chain,” says stylist

Penny Lovell.

GAP

“You can’t get better than their soft, thin cotton T-shirts—with quality this good, the

notion of a luxury T-shirt is absurd,” says stylist George Kotsiopoulos. Gap’s clothes can

run big, so try before you buy.

H&M

“H&M has some of the best T-shirts and buttoned shirts,” says Lovell. “They

use nice cotton, good colors, and flattering shapes.”

How to Shop at Chain StoresEven fashion-obsessed stylists don’t sink all of their hard-earned cash into

expensive clothes. They seek out cute, quality basics at chain stores.

Kate Middleton regularly wears clothes from chain stores, including Zara.

Model Karolina Kurkova in a miniskirt by Zara

H&M cotton-blend shirt,

$20, at H&M stores.

Gap cotton T-shirts,

$20 each (gap.com).

J.Crew wool blazer, $198 (jcrew.com).

Zara polyester-blend pants, $60, at Zara

stores.

Topshop polyester

dress, $92 (topshop

.com).

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When summer is over, you don’t

have to abandon self-tanning,

but you do have to change your

approach. A deep bronze looks

unnatural in the fall. Instead, a

sheer golden hue reveals the tex-

ture of your skin.

Layer it on. Gradual self-tanner gives

your skin color without depositing an

intense amount of bronze. To achieve

that translucent tone on your face,

smooth on a gradual self-tanner two

or three times a week. Choose one

with moisturizing ingredients, since a

self-tan lasts longer on hydrated skin.

Think head to toe. When you’re show-

ing less skin, it’s tempting to focus on

your face, but that looks unbalanced.

Color on your face fades more quickly

than on your body (because of cleans-

ing and the products you use), so rub

gradual tanner on your arms, legs,

and torso just once or twice a week.

Even out. Women with olive or dark

skin tend to battle splotchiness, rath-

er than paleness, as their tan fades.

If you need to even out light patches,

switch to a formula with more pig-

ment, like traditional self-tanning

cream or mousse. You need to be wary

of overdoing it, though. For your face,

apply moisturizer on the tricky areas,

like your hairline and eyebrows and

along the jawline. Then put a pea-size

amount of self-tanner on a sponge

applicator and gently blend it using

sweeping motions from the center

of your face outward and upward.

Finish by working the product down

the neck and around the ears. On

your body, avoid a bronze overdose

by using a mitt, which distributes

the product evenly while blend-

ing away some of the excess color.

—INTERVIEW BY SOPHIA PANYCH

How to Prolong Your Summer Glow

An Interview With Nichola Joss

Joss is the St. Tropez global tanning

and skin finishing expert. Her

celebrity clients include Kate Moss,

Katy Perry, and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Insiders’Guide

Advice from the experts on arranging your bathroom,

choosing chic flats, serving sweets, and more.

TipFor evening, a little

shimmer on your

arms, shoulders,

and shins enhances

a subtle self-tan.

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Bathrooms are too often generic

spaces that don’t reflect your per-

sonality. The best thing to do is to

look everywhere but a dedicated

bathroom store for what you need.

In my bathroom, I have a vintage

mirror, glass vases for storage, and

a bamboo hat rack for my towels.

Dry off. Drape towels on hooksÑthey

dry faster and look nice. If you do

have a bar, hang one towel or three;

odd numbers look best. I love the

solid-color towels from Abyss or the

printed styles from Porthault.

Be resourceful. I use colored vases,

jars, and ceramic pots for items like

my makeup brushes, cotton balls, and

tweezers. If you keep everyday items

in lovely containers, the room looks

functional, but pretty, too.

Tuck it away. I can’t stand toilet-roll

holders. I keep my toilet paper piled

in a basket or a canvas storage box

from Hable Construction. These are

also a good place to put bulky things,

like hair-dryers and curling irons.

Lose the novelty curtain. Hang a

simple white cotton shower curtain

(I like the quilted ones at Restoration

Hardware) and then a thin plastic one

on the inside. You can wash the cur-

tain whenever necessary and replace

it if it starts to look tired.

Ban the pump. Good soap has a lin-

gering scent that’s much nicer than a

diffuser. I use bar soaps, and I keep

them in a pretty dish.

Show off. It may sound obvious, but

shower storage looks better with

nice products. I don’t coordinate my

shampoo and body wash, but because

I don’t buy the supersaver shampoo,

the packaging tends to work together.

—INTERVIEW BY BROOKE LE POER TRENCH

How to Arrange Your Bathroom

An Interview With Rita Konig

Konig is a London-based interior designer and style writer.

The vanity in designer Betsey Johnson’s New York City bathroom in 2007

Insiders’ GuideAsk AllureQ: What is the best way to

strengthen my brittle, peeling

nails? —Kieran, Glendale, CA

A: Regular use of any

moisturizer will help

keep your nails pliable so

they bend rather than

break under pressure. A

moisturizer with alpha

hydroxy and beta hydroxy

acids is ideal—we don’t

actually know why, but

they help make nails

stronger. Also, research

shows that biotin can

strengthen nails, so a daily

supplement may help.

Ask your doctor for the

correct biotin dosage. Typically, water

absorption is one of the causes of soft

nails, so you can also try to prevent

that by wearing rubber gloves for wet

chores like dish washing. —Richard Scher

Scher is a professor of dermatology specializing in nail health at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City.

Sweet TalkMacarons are overrated; cupcakes are

played out. At a cocktail party or

brunch, serving candy is the perfect

way to be sweet—without being

twee. Rosie O’Neill, co-owner of online

candy shop Sugarfina (and sister

of Allure assistant editor Catherine Q.

O’Neill), explains how.

Dish it out. Simple bowls keep candy

from feeling childish. O’Neill suggests

dessert and compote bowls in a single

color, like white. Cluster diferent sizes

as a centerpiece.

Narrow it down. “Just as you wouldn’t

wear all your jewelry at once, don’t put

out dozens of types of candy,” says

O’Neill. Instead, go with five to seven

kinds, but stick to just two or three

colors of candy or wrapper—you’re

aiming for variety and visual interest.

Work together. All candy tastes good,

but not all candy tastes good together.

Chocolates and caramels are great

bases that work with unusual choices,

like champagne-flavored gummy bears

or mint chip malt balls.

Take it easy. Avoid serving anything too

hard or chewy that will make it dificult

to talk or that can’t be consumed in

one bite. —ALEXANDRA OWENS

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Insiders’ Guide

How to Wear Flats (And Not Look Frumpy)

An Interview With Tabitha Simmons

Simmons, who designs shoes under her own name, is a fashion stylist

for Vogue, Dazed & Confused, and AnOther Magazine.

Flats are having a big moment right now, and they can look every bit as

chic as a pair of heels. They’re also unexpected, especially in the evening.

Point it out. Round-toe flats can feel old-fashioned. When the toe is nice and

sharp, the shoes are more elegant since they elongate your legs. Look for ones

that are cut low on the foot—you want to see a bit of toe cleavage.

Live a little. I love the look of two-tone flats. You could go graphic with black-

and-white or have fun with brighter colors. If they’re for evening, I like one solid

color with several textures: black suede with a grosgrain bow or red leather with

an oversize red crystal. If there’s only one color, the shoes won’t be too busy.

Make it leggy. The key to looking stylish in flats is to keep the rest of your

outfit short or fitted. Try pointy flats with Capri pants, a shrunken T-shirt,

and a fitted jacket. If you wear a skirt, go for one that’s short. Since you’re not

wearing heels, it’ll look chic, not provocative. A chiffon tea dress that skims

your body is a pretty alternative if you want to be a bit more covered up. When

you wear jeans, make sure they’re fitted and that you can see the ankle. Pieces

to avoid: wide-leg trousers and big, loose skirts that hit at midcalf.

Get the right bag. If you’re doing a short skirt or dress with your flats, a tote or

oversize bag looks great—a tiny bag would look dinky. If you’re more covered

up, say in skinny jeans and a jacket, go for a clutch or a cross-body pouch.

Small outfit, big bag and vice versa. —INTERVIEW BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT

TipAvoid logos at

all costs—they’re

overdone.

Boasting about yourself can feel as

rewarding as eating a good meal,

according to a Harvard study. But as

anyone with a Facebook account

knows, too many people are guilty of

gluttony. Here’s how to share your news

the right way. —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL

YOU GOT A NEW JOBDon’t post: “Feeling sooooo blessed! I

have the best view from my new ofice.”

Do: Change your title and company in

LinkedIn and your Facebook About

Me section. It’s a less obnoxious way to

spread the news, says Stephanie Buck

of the tech-news site mashable.com.

YOU’RE ON VACATIONDon’t post: “So embarrassing,

there’s a special elevator to our suite.

Check it out. #VIPtreatment”

Do: Create a photo album with a few

simple details of the trip, rather

than posting a barrage of pictures one

by one. This lets people opt in or out

depending on their interest, says Buck.

YOU VOLUNTEEREDDon’t post: A picture of yourself raking

the local hurricane-ravaged park. If your

goal is just to tell people you did it,

you’ve missed the point of volunteering.

Do: Provide a link to a website

where people can donate their time

or resources.

YOU’RE GETTING MARRIEDDon’t post: “Today’s dress was a

disaster—no way I’m wearing sleeves.

#bootcamp” “Most people don’t want to

read every step of your wedding-

planning process,” says Meryl Weinsaft

Cooper, coauthor of Be Your Own Best

Publicist (Career Press).

Do: Give occasional updates—anything

genuinely hilarious. And after the big

day, upload a snapshot from

the reception and a quick thank-you

to people for their well-wishes.

YOU HAD A BABYDon’t post: A status update about

your baby genius’s every single

first—months ahead of schedule.

Do: Share your absolute favorite

photos. Upload the rest to a

Flickr account and email links directly

to close friends.

YOU LOST WEIGHTDon’t post: “My favorite pants are way

too big for me now. :(”

Do: Buy a belt. And just come right out

and say you met your goal. You’re

not getting away with the brag by trying

to make it self-deprecating, says

Harris Wittels, the author of

Humblebrag: The Art of False Modesty

(Grand Central Publishing).

Bragging Rites

Audrey Hepburn photographed by Cecil Beaton circa 1964

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Insiders’ Guide

Confessions From a Blowout Bar

I have a client who comes in every day. She doesn’t even own shampoo.

An Interview With Gregory Patterson

Patterson is the lead educator for Blow, the New York Blow Dry Bar.

Most hairdressers see their clients every six to eight weeks.

I see mine at least once a week—if not two, three, or even

four times a week. It’s the difference between asking

whether a client is seeing somebody and asking her how

the third date went. I have a client who comes in every

day at 8 A.M. for the most basic blowout. She doesn’t even

own shampoo. Those women freak out when they go on

vacation. They come in on the day of their flight, and I show them how to make

their blowout last with pinning techniques and dry shampoo. Recently, a client

came back to me after 17 days in Aruba and still had sand in her hair. I wish

more women knew how to communicate what they want. Fifty percent of my

clients sit down and say they want it messy but not too messy, straight but not

too straight, volume but not too big. One woman demanded so much volume

and movement that we actually had to cut her hair to get it the way she wanted.

That night she got engaged, and I like to think I had something to do with it.

I learn a lot about my clients’ private lives. More than once, I’ve had clients

purchase the blowouts on separate credit cards so their husbands don’t see

them on the bill. I get women ready for their dates—and I get them ready to go

back home to their husbands. I have to stay professional. I’ll ask, “Should we

do smooth with movement so you don’t attract too much attention? Or do you

want to stand out when you walk into the room?” —CATHERINE Q. O’NEILL

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The Hair Pro

The 1st arrondissement, Paris What’s not to like about a long, beachy, blonde ponytail? What strikes me about this one in particular is this woman is doing it in the middle of Paris, wearing a tough leather jacket that makes the basic style much cooler.

Snap HappyBy Chris McMillan

Paris streetsI always love boy hairstyles on girls, and this is one of the best examples. Her cut is different from my usual androgynous look because she has all those awesomely long layers on top—I’m already starting to play around with that.

London streets I call her Casual Kate Middleton. Her hair is naturally gorgeous, but anyone with some length and a curling iron could do this. I’m always looking for easy long hairstyles for my clients, and these waves are perfect.

I always have the insane urge to style women on the street.

Near the Park Hyatt hotel, ParisThis is a hostess at the Park Hyatt, and every time I’ve seen her she’s had this same horizontal chignon. What’s so great is that it’s incredibly elegant but not perfect—and I love any style that is done and undone at the same time.

High-street shopping, LondonThis is a standard lob (long bob), but what makes it work is that this woman is so classically styled. It’s good to be reminded that hairdressers don’t always have to do the new, trendy thing—classic cuts can look chic on the right person.

With my salons in

Los Angeles, movie

premieres in Lon-

don, and magazine

photo shoots in

New York City, I live on airplanes.

Over the years, I’ve learned that trav-

eling is a great way to get hair ideas,

so now I take pictures with my smart-

phone of women on the streets all around the world. These

are some of the shots that have inspired me the most.

Coachella music festivalI saw this model, Chloe Nørgaard, at Coachella and instantly fell in love with her hair. I follow her on Instagram, and she’s constantly changing her look. After I took this picture, I began experimenting with more colorful ombré effects.

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The magical transformations that have been

honed to a fine art began with one woman’s

ingenious, pleading letter to a magazine. The

origin of the before-and-after. By Virginia Postrel

The First

Makeover

In 1936, Barbara Phillips was

a 21-year-old nurse who

longed to change her life.

She’d gone to nursing school

not because she had any great

desire to help the sick, she

admitted, but because she

thought “nurses had only to

lift one languid finger to have

fabulous salaries forced upon them.”

Instead, she found herself working long

hours for “a rather small pittance” and

dreaming of a new career.

Phillips wanted to be an actress. But

she’d had no luck at any of her audi-

tions, and she realized she had a huge

problem. She was, by her own descrip-

tion, “as homely as a hedgehog.”

Then she had an inspiration. That

summer, she had read a series of articles

in Mademoiselle magazine about how

Paramount Studios makeup artist Eddie

Senz (“a Michelangelo of makeup”) and

other beauty experts made Hollywood

stars look their best. Called the “Make the

Most of Yourself ” campaign, the series

was supposed to give readers “a complete

course” they could follow at home.

Phillips had a better idea.

She wrote a letter to Mademoiselle

and begged for personal attention. Fear-

ing a future as “a frigid old maid with a

two-room apartment,” she appealed to

the editors’ sympathy and pride. “Don’t

you think it would be a feather in your

cap if you could be the one who changed

this very ugly duckling into even a pale

pink swan?” she wrote. “If you have any

of Pygmalion in you, please be a sport

and help me out.”

Her audacious proposal worked. In the

November 1936 issue of Mademoiselle,

Phillips appeared as the first-ever subject

of a before-and-after magazine makeover.

Model Bette Franke gets the full treatment backstage at the Rochas show in Paris.

Essay

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Styles have evolved and waist-

lines have grown, but the glamour

of those before-and-after shots

hasn’t changed that significantly in

three quarters of a century. You can

be instantly beautiful, a makeover

promises, and also truer to your

inner ideal. An outer change can

lead to a better life. All

you have to do is trust spe-

cialists who can see your

unique potential, know

the right tricks, and devote

their skills to revealing, or

creating, the new you.

That’s the difference

between getting a makeover

and just having a bunch of

beauty treatments at the

same time. On a normal

trip to the hairdresser or the cosmet-

ics counter, the experts ask you what

you want. With a makeover, they tell

you what you need. Their expertise

makes the new look seem effort-

less, like magic, especially when you

just see before-and-after photos in a

magazine or the “reveal” scene on a

TV show, and miss the angst, pain, or

complicated preparations.

Glamour always contains an ele-

ment of illusion; the word “glamour”

originally meant a literal magic spell

that made things look better than

they really were. In the case of make-

overs, what’s hidden are the conflicts

created by trusting your appearance

to someone else.

For most people, a

makeover isn’t a

real-life experi-

ence, but rather

an escapist fan-

tasy, enjoyed while

reading magazines

or watching movies

or reality shows.

Most of us don’t really want to trans-

form our appearance that radically.

Our identities are too wrapped up in

the way we look.

But Phillips yearned for some

bossy beauty instruction. On a hot

summer Saturday, she met with the

editors of Mademoiselle in New York

City and agreed to serve as a “human

guinea pig, a laboratory specimen to

be analyzed, dissected, polished up

piece by piece, and reassembled.” The

goal was to prove that the magazine’s

beauty tips really worked. “If Bar-

bara Phillips could be transformed,”

she explained in an article about her

experience, “so could anyone.”

A squadron of specialists spent

the following week remolding her

appearance. “We’ll do a job on you,

all right,” promised Senz, the makeup

artist. (At the end of World War II,

this master of transformation would

advise the U.S. government on how

Hitler might disguise himself to elude

capture.) After brusquely diagnosing

Phillips’s flaws, Senz resculpted the

planes of her long face with cosmet-

ics, plucked away her eyebrows and

drew in new ones, and gave her enor-

mous false eyelashes. Since there

wasn’t time to grow out her scraggly

bob, she also got a custom-made wig

in a stylish perm, adding fullness to

her narrow head.

A dentist capped her crooked

overbite, and she abandoned her

glasses. Designer Marie de Narde

(who later left fashion after marrying

actor Jack Lord, of Hawaii Five-O

fame) created an evening gown that,

with “some miraculous foundation

work by Best and Company,” a Fifth

Avenue retailer, disguised Phillips’s

lack of curves. She even had speech

lessons to improve her high-pitched,

“smothered” voice.

At the end of the week, Phillips

emerged looking less like a gawky

farm girl and more like an elegant

Hollywood star. “A stranger was gaz-

ing at me out of the mirror,” she

wrote. “Her face was full and round-

ed, her lips full and wide, her even,

straight teeth gleamed. I didn’t feel

like Barbara Phillips and certainly I

didn’t look like her.”

Her article ended with a resolution

to do everything necessary to keep

up her new look. “No midnight bell,

I hope, for this Cinderella,” she wrote.

As it turned out, however, her

adventures as a glamour girl were

merely an enjoyable interlude of

imagination and escape. Phillips

didn’t go on to become a star of stage

or screen. In fact, as the Mademoi-

selle issue hit newsstands, Time

reported that “Miss Phillips was

back in Boston, looking once more

the way God made her.” (Confirm-

ing the Time report, the 1940 cen-

sus records a 25-year-old Barbara E.

Phillips living in Boston.)

The makeover may not have

changed Phillips’s life, but it did alter

Mademoiselle’s fate. The story was a

phenomenal success, drawing enough

new readers to turn around the strug-

Phillips was, by her own description,

“as homely as a hedgehog.”

AFTERThe glamorous results of a week in the hands of Mademoiselle’s makeover team

BEFOREPhillips, the 21-year-old nurse, in 1936

Essay

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gling magazine, which

was barely a year old

when Phillips wrote

her letter.

Senz started writ-

ing regular columns,

each featuring before-

and-after photos of a

woman with a common

appearance problem.

In January 1937, for

instance, Senz trans-

formed an unnamed

woman whom he

described, accurately

but tactlessly, as “short,

fat, stocky, and missing

in attractive feminine

curves.” He reworked

her “round, moon-

like face” with make-

up and a new hairstyle,

gave her a corset that

took two inches off her

hips, and put her in a

dress with wide shoul-

ders and a V-neck to

elongate her shape.

How she reacted to the

makeover—or to Senz’s

blunt comments—we

don’t know.

Mademoiselle also

turned Phillips’s idea

into an annual con-

test. By 1938, Made-

moiselle’s circulation had quintupled,

and some 5,000 young women sent

in letters and photos, vying for the

chance to win a trip to New York City

and a complete beauty overhaul. Kal-

lie Foutz, a 26-year-old fashion copy-

writer from Salt Lake City and one of

Brigham Young’s great-granddaugh-

ters, was especially determined. To

make her “before” photo as ugly as

possible, she washed her hair in harsh

soap to remove all the curl and body,

stuck her newly lank locks behind

her ears, plucked out her eyebrows

and drew new ones in an unflatter-

ing shape, and, recalls her younger

brother, “carefully assembled a ward-

robe that was wildly out of fashion.”

In her contest entry, Foutz refer-

enced the same transformative fairy

tale Phillips had, writ-

ing about how she’d

loved “The Ugly Duck-

ling” when she was

a child, “because I

was an ugly duckling

and, with the incor-

rigible optimism and

blind hope of extreme

youth, dreamed of the

day when I too would

become a beautiful

swan.” Unlike Phillips,

she didn’t emphasize

changing her life, just

her looks. Her ulti-

mate goal: She want-

ed her appearance to

match her inner self.

“My soul fairly glit-

ters,” she wrote, “and

yet I am hastily passed

by for the glamour

girls who know how to

make the most of their

looks.”

As the contest win-

ner, Foutz got six

weeks in New York City

and makeover treat-

ments that included

plastic surgery and

speech lessons, along

with a new hairstyle,

makeup, and a whole

new wardrobe. When

she returned home, her little brother

didn’t recognize her. “Hoping they

were returning my sister,” he recalls,

“I was disappointed as one of the

most beautiful women I had ever seen

stepped out of the car.”

Unlike Phillips, Foutz kept her new

look and the show-business ambi-

tions it furthered. She worked a while

as a radio and TV host, then went on

to become a magazine writer and a

ghostwriter for celebrity memoirs.

She married a screenwriter and lived

in Hollywood and New York City. “My

great-grandfather went west in 1847

to change the map,” she said of her

makeover. “I’ve come east in 1938 to

change my map.” It worked. In Foutz’s

case, the “ugly duckling” really was a

swan inside. ◆

Essay

In her 1938 makeover, Foutz went from before (top) to after (bottom) with the aid of a plastic surgeon and stylists.

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Skin

Ray of LightBrown spots? Bzzz. Unwanted hair? Zap. Lasers are more effective

than ever—for nearly every skin issue under the sun. By Joan Kron

In the beauty world, only

one person provokes a big-

ger fight-or-flight reaction

than Johnny Scissor happy,

the hairstylist who strongly

suggests cutting ten inches

off your shoulder-length

hair—and that person is

Elena Zapitoff, the spa aes-

thetician who insists you would look a

whole lot better after a series of laser

treatments on your face. Thirty years

ago, when resurfacing lasers first

entered the realm of dermatology with

all the promise of a science-fiction

breakthrough, high expectations led

to mild disappointment. Doctors had

figured out how to direct a beam of

intense light at the skin to burn off the

top layer, allowing new skin to grow

in its place. But the first devices could

literally be a pain for patients, who

might end up with beautiful results but

only after what looked like a months-

long sunburn. For those with dark

skin, lasers were risky at best.

But since then, the technology—and

the results—have improved tremen-

dously, making lasers one of dermatolo-

gy’s most valued tools. “Lasers have rev-

olutionized what we can do for the aging

face,” says Jeffrey Dover, an associate

clinical professor of dermatology at

Yale School of Medicine. Dover himself

has dozens of the devices in his office

for erasing brown spots, fading lines

and wrinkles, smoothing rough skin,

removing unwanted hair, and deleting

that “Mon Amour” tattoo on a patient’s

wrist long after her love affair has died.

The field of laser medicine is more com-

plicated than ever, and so are the con-

cerns of patients about which device is

right for them, the cost of a laser treat-

ment, and how much it is likely to hurt.

We’ve rounded up the experts to answer

all of these questions and more.

Some lasers leave you red for a few hours; others, for a few weeks.

150 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

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How does a laser work? Unlike the

white light from a bulb that is a blend

of all the colors of the rainbow, a laser

is a focused beam of light that has

just one color. When its intense rays

target a problem area on the skin (a

brown spot, a scar, an unwanted hair

follicle), the laser’s light can destroy

that pigment or tissue while sparing

the skin around it.

Will doctors or spas suggest a par-

ticular laser just because they hap-

pen to have it? Sadly, yes. “If all they

have is one device, that’s what they

will offer,” says Dover, who practices

in Boston. “This is why you want to

go to people with multiple devices,”

advises Jason N. Pozner, a plastic sur-

geon in Boca Raton, Florida, who has

a large laser practice.

So how do I know if a doctor is using

the right laser for me? Ask a lot of

questions: What is your training?

How many patients have you treated

with my particular problem? What

are the risks and complications? Can

I see pictures —and are these yours,

or are they from the laser manufac-

turer? “If you have broken blood ves-

sels, you want a doctor who has done

scores of those procedures,” says

Dover. It’s not just a matter of how

many lasers you own, he says—it’s a

question of experience and skill with

those lasers. “It boils down to trust.”

Do I need to ask for the laser I need

by name? No, you don’t—and don’t

consider it. You may be tempted

to ask for the same treatment your

friend had, and your doctor may give

it to you rather than risk you walking

out the door. But leave that decision

Why are there so many different lasers? Just as a cook has many utensils, doctors have different

lasers for different skin problems. “A good laser physician should have three or four to treat a broad range

of problems,” says Dieter Manstein, an instructor in dermatology at Harvard Medical School and coinventor of

the fractional laser. There are lasers with different wavelengths, pulse duration, and energy for hair removal, skin resurfacing, blood-vessel treatments, brown spots,

redness, and tattoos (see “Type Casting,” page 154).

Recovery and ResultsWhat the healing process really looks like.

In a single treatment, dermatologist Robert Anolik used a Gemini laser to fade discoloration caused by broken capillaries and a Vbeam laser for ruddiness. “It didn’t sting, except a little around my nose,” says the patient.

With topical anesthetic, dermatologist Diane Berson resurfaced the patient’s face with a fractional laser. “It felt like a bad windburn,” she says. After a week, “I looked younger, my pores were smaller, and makeup went on more uniformly.”

“Between sun damage and pregnancy, my freckles had darkened, especially one on my right cheek,” says the patient. Dermatologist Brian Biesman treated her with a Q-switched alexandrite laser. By day 9, the darkest spots had sloughed off.

Reducing Redness

Whole-Face Resurfacing

Brown Spots

Before treatmentImmediately after treatment Day 2 Day 4 Day 8



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Skin

to a professional. “You need a doctor

who understands what she is looking

at, who prescribes the best treatment,

and who knows how to administer

that treatment,” says Brian Biesman,

a clinical assistant professor in oph-

thalmology, otolaryngology, and der-

matology at Vanderbilt University

Medical Center in Nashville.

Can you be too young for lasers?

Or too old? It’s a matter of the prob-

lem you want to fix, not your age,

says Tina Alster, a clinical profes-

sor of dermatology at Georgetown

University Medical Center in Wash-

ington, D.C. “Lots of young people

have rosacea, acne, sun spots, and

sun damage, and these conditions

are all treatable. We treat infants

with birthmarks who are only days

old,” she says. Still, less-intensive

therapies, such as chemical peels

or facials, may be enough to repair

young, relatively healthy skin.

What’s a Fraxel? Fraxel is a brand

name and common shorthand for

a whole class of lasers used for skin

resurfacing, which is another word

for smoothing rough patches, flatten-

ing wrinkles, and removing pigments

and scar tissue. The name comes from

the word “fractional,” which refers

to the way the devices deliver light.

Instead of a solid beam, they bom-

bard the target area with a polka-dot

pattern that damages less tissue and

speeds recovery. There are different

fractional lasers for a range of differ-

ent problems, from heavy-duty sun

damage to stretch marks.

How about Thermage and Ulthera—

are they lasers, too? Lots of devices

are mistakenly referred to as lasers

even though they technically aren’t.

Thermage uses radio-frequency

waves to generate heat that stimu-

lates new collagen and tightens the

skin. Ulthera uses another form of

energy, ultrasound, for somewhat

similar results. It’s FDA-approved

to lift sagging skin on the neck and

brow and under the chin. Cold tem-

peratures are also used cosmetically,

in CoolSculpting (a.k.a. Zeltiq), a

device that clamps onto the skin,

shrinking the fat layers underneath.

And Intense Pulsed Light, or IPL, is

polychromatic light, meaning each

beam contains a rainbow of col-

ors that doctors use to zap red and

brown spots and even out skin tone.

Microwaves are the latest entry into

the category, says Robert Anolik, a

clinical assistant professor of derma-

tology at Weill Cornell Medical Cen-

ter and New York University School

of Medicine. A new device called

MiraDry uses this form of energy to

destroy sweat glands in armpits.

How much do laser treatments

cost? That’s like asking, “How much

is a cashmere sweater?” You can find

one at Uniqlo for $49 and at Chanel

for $1,000. Prices vary widely.

How should I prepare for a laser session?

“If you’re having medium or deep skin resurfacing with

a fractional laser, you should stop using glycolic and

salicylic acid creams, retinoids, and hydroquinone a week

before treatment,” says Diane Berson, an associate clinical

professor of dermatology at Weill Medical College of

Cornell University. They can irritate the skin. “But don’t

stop sun protection.” If you take aspirin (which can

worsen bleeding) or other medications, make sure

your doctor knows in advance.

Type Casting The laser breakdown:

Fractional lasersTreat: Large pores, wrinkles, blotchiness, melasma, acne scars, sagging skinResults: Smoother skin, brighter skin tone, and smaller pores and wrinkles. Substantial improvement of most problems is seen after three or four treatments.Recovery: From four hours of pinkness after light treatments to weeks of swelling, scabs, and peeling skin after heavy treatmentsPrice: $300 to $5,000 per treatmentAvoid: If you have severe eczema, a skin infection in the area, or a deep tanFeels like: Warm prickles if the laser is mild. Numbing cream and painkiller

injections are given for the more powerful lasers.

Lasers for brown spotsTreat: Brown sun damage Results: Some spots disappear entirely after one to three treatments.Recovery: Spots turn darker brown for about a week, then fade or disappear. Price: $400 to $900 per treatment per area (face, hands, arms, legs)Avoid: If you have dark skin or a tan (even a spray tan)Feels like: A hot pinprick

Lasers for red veins and red spotsTreat: Facial redness and red blood vessels, including minor veins on legsResults: Up to 90 percent of redness can fade after three treatments, with less fading for leg veins.

Recovery: Redness and swelling can last several hours or days, with occasional bruising.Price: $400 to $1,000 Avoid: If you have dark skin or a tan (even a spray tan)Feels like: A pinprick with slight burning

Lasers for hair removalTreat: Unwanted hair on the face and bodyResults: Good to excellent after six treatments for face, legs, or arms and three to six for underarms and bikini area. (Each session reduces hair regrowth by about 20 percent.)Recovery: Redness for a few hours to a few days and occasional red bumpsPrice: $75 (upper lip) and $600 to $1,200 (legs)Avoid: If you have blonde or white hair. Patients with dark skin can be treated

with the long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser.Feels like: A pinprick, except on sensitive areas such as above the lips and on the chin, underarms, and bikini area, which may require a numbing cream

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) devices Treat: Freckles, sun spots, and rosacea on the face, neck, and chest. Not effective for melasma.Results: Subtle, gradual fading of discoloration and brighter skin tone after three to five treatmentsRecovery: Redness on the day of treatment. Brown spots will darken before fading within a week.Price: $400 to $900; may be discounted as a seriesAvoid: If you have dark skin or a tanFeels like: A rubber-band snap

154 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

Do lasers hurt? They certainly can.

Many laser treatments don’t require

numbing beforehand, but for deep

resurfacing, “we can use a topical

anesthetic or a combination of topical

and pain injections plus anxiety drugs

such as Ativan or Valium,” says Bies-

man. The only time he recommends

monitored sedation—a short-acting

IV anesthetic that puts a patient to

sleep—is for some forms of abla-

tive resurfacing, in which the laser

removes skin and can cause bleeding.

My doctor has suggested more

than one laser for different prob-

lems. Can I have them all at once?

Certain laser treatments are fine to

tackle in one appointment, but many

need a return visit. Skin tightening

and treatment for rosacea, each of

which requires a different laser, can

be done one right after the other. But

hair and tattoo removal from the same

area can lead to scars, says Biesman.

Should I have moles removed with

a laser? No. Since any mole has the

potential to become malignant, each

one should be examined by a doctor,

who may remove it with a scalpel and

send it to a pathologist to rule out

cancer, according to Biesman.

Do I need to stay out of the sun if

I’m getting a laser? It’s not a good

idea to be treated if you’re tan, even

if it’s a spray tan, says Eric Bernstein,

a clinical professor of dermatology at

the University of Pennsylvania. “The

laser’s function is to destroy targets

like freckles and brown spots, blood

vessels, and tattoo pigment. But if the

whole body is tan or dark, the laser

mistakes it for the enemy—one big

brown spot.” If used improperly, the

treatment can cause irritation, blis-

ters, and discoloration. Still, certain

lasers can be adjusted for patients

with dark skin.

After treatment, how many days

before I can leave the house? You’ll

have to be the judge of that. Some

devices, such as IPL and the lightest

fractional laser, can result in only a

few hours of redness. But full-face

resurfacing with a Fraxel Re:Pair can

cause two to eight weeks of redness,

plus weeks of pinkness (which you

can cover with makeup).

How do I know that I really need a

laser instead of a chemical peel or

microdermabrasion? For pigment

problems, don’t rush to lasers until

you try less aggressive treatments. “A

chemical peel can get good results,

similar to a laser,” says Pozner. He

starts his patients on a skin-care

regimen, then a light chemical peel,

and then, for those with extensive

sun damage—or a big event in a few

months—a laser. “We look at skin

color and the patient’s ability to

take time off. If you can’t spare the

time, we do a lighter laser peel. But if

you’re in your 50s, we do something

more aggressive, well in advance of

a major social engagement.”

How long do the results last?

“Nothing lasts forever,” says Berson.

After a few fractional resurfacing

treatments, you may want a mainte-

nance session once a year or every

few years. “It depends on how much

sun damage you have.” Sticking

to a skin-care regimen, including

sun protection and a retinoid, will

reduce the damage and may elimi-

nate the need for future laser treat-

ments, she says. ◆

Do I need a dermatologist or can

any type of doctor do this effectively? There’s no such thing as a

board-certified laser operator, and legal requirements

vary drastically from state to state. In some, only a

doctor can fire a laser, while in others, nurses and

technicians can operate them. To make things more

complicated, any doctor can legally wield a laser, even

with no specific training. “I am allowed to deliver babies,

but I don’t do that,” says Dover. “Yet an ob-gyn can

treat you with a laser. Is that really someone you want

to see?” The onus is on you to find a doctor with extensive

laser experience.

Skin

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Hair loss in young women could be related to a lack of two key nutrients. A

study involving 80 women, ages 18 to 45, who were diagnosed with thinning

hair found that they had 51 percent lower iron levels and 78 percent lower

vitamin D levels, on average, than 40 women of similar ages who did not

have excessive hair loss. Iron is known to be involved in hair growth; optimal

vitamin D may slow aging in general and also activates key genes related to

the hair’s normal cycle of growth and shedding, explains lead study author Rania Abdel Hay,

an assistant professor of dermatology at Cairo University in Egypt. She recommends that

women with thinning hair take supplements, particularly if blood tests reveal that they are

below the cutoffs of 30 micrograms per liter for ferritin (iron stores) or 70 nanomoles per

liter for vitamin D. She advises against boosting vitamin D levels by increasing sun exposure,

which itself causes damage to hair (as well as to skin).

Popping a nonprescription pill may be a solution for thinning hair.

allure.com: For more on hair and diet,

visit allure.com/go/body.

BODY NEWSBy Kristin Sainani

A new lotion holds promise for

reversing gray hair. Researchers

in Europe previously showed

that hair turns white as we age

due to a buildup in hair follicles

of the bleaching chemical hydro-

gen peroxide. A similar process

occurs in the skin of people who

suffer from the irregular patches

of depigmentation known as vit-

iligo, the same researchers found.

When the scientists treated vit-

iligo patients with a proprietary

enzyme that breaks down hydro-

gen peroxide, it restored natural

color to the skin, eyelashes, and

eyebrows. Whether the cream will

also cure gray hair remains to be

tested, says Gerald Weissmann,

the editor of the journal that pub-

lished the study and a research

professor of medicine at New

York University. But, he predicts,

“now that the principle has been

established, other people will

jump into the field and develop

material that will work on hair.”

Which is better to do first:

improve diet or increase

exercise? Trick question:

Prioritizing both appears to

promote long-term success.

For a study, some volunteers

improved the quality of their

diet first, then increased

exercise four months later;

others did the opposite; and

a third group made both

changes at the same time.

After one year, only the

simultaneous group had

levels of physical activity

and intakes of saturated fat,

fruits, and vegetables that

met all national standards,

says Abby King, a professor

of medicine at the Stanford

Prevention Research Center

in Stanford, California.

However, if you must focus

on only one at a time, she

suggests starting with

exercise, as it was harder

for participants to make

workout changes after diet

overhauls than vice versa.

Body Goals

Cure for Grays

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Know-It-Alls

Star Hair TipsBobby pins fall to the floor, ponytails droop, and

roots deflate —but they don’t have to. We asked top hair pros to share their tricks for mastering your

favorite styles without a hitch. You may never look at a bobby pin the same way again. By Catherine Q. O’NeillP

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165

Master a

TopknotWhen hairstylist Mark Townsend started giving his celebrity

clients topknots, the style went viral (there are now more

than 200,000 topknot tutorials on YouTube). We went straight to

the source for a step-by-step guide.

Prep Townsend mists flexible-

hold hair spray on a flat brush and glides it through the hair. To reach the bottom

layers, he sprays the brush again, flips the head over, and

brushes the underside. “Women put the majority of

product on the top layer, but when you’re doing an updo,

all that hair on the bottom is exposed,” he says.

Position It’s called a topknot for a reason. Townsend flips

the hair over and gathers it into a ponytail at the

very top center of the head. He twists the ponytail

around the base, tucks the ends under, and slides

in bobby pins. If you have thin hair, use a styling

donut to add bulk. (Try the Conair Bun Maker.)

Perfect If you want a flawless

ballerina knot, mist a clean spooley brush

with hair spray and skim it over stray pieces

around the ears and neck so they lie flat. To

get a messy, windblown look, let down your bangs or free a few

loose hairs around your ears and face.

Clockwise from left: Jennifer Lawrence, Elizabeth Olsen, and Rachel McAdams—all wearing topknots styled by Townsend.

1Bumps: A bumpy ponytail can

look cool and beachy, but on

days when you want a smooth,

sleek style, place a flat nozzle

on your blow-dryer and blast the

strands at your hairline straight

back, using your fingers as a guide.

This helps the roots lie flat, says

hairstylist Guido.

2A droopy tail: By the time

you’ve finished looping your

ponytail through an elastic,

it’s fallen three inches. To

keep it in place, try a bungee, says

hairstylist Yann Varin. This kind of

elastic, with a hook on each end,

wraps around the base of your

ponytail, meaning you don’t have to

let it go until it’s totally secure.

3Pinhead: It’s a fact: The

sleeker your ponytail, the

smaller your head appears.

You can get volume without

sacrificing smoothness by creating

two ponytails. Section off four inch-

es of hair from the front and pull

the rest into a ponytail at the back

of your head. Tease the underside of

the top section, brush it back, and

tie it all together with a second elas-

tic. The results will look polished,

with just a hint of lift.

Ponytail PointersHairstylists offer three solutions to your

perennial ponytail problems.

Know-It-AllsVersace couture Spring 2012

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Know-It-Alls

Half and Half-ishThe problem with most half-up styles

is that they’re literally half up, leaving

a skimpy-looking portion down

below. A more flattering ratio is

30/70, says Hawkins. To get it, draw

a line from ear to ear over the top

of your head—like a headband. That

front section is your 30 percent.

Ears: Wrap face-framing pieces around a

curling wand to create ear-obscuring

fullness. You can also back-comb

the hairs surrounding the ears so they

appear to stick out less, says Hawkins.

Hairline:If you have a low hairline or a

widow’s peak, wear a deep side part.

“It opens up the eye area,” says

hairstylist Garren. To soften a big

forehead, leave layers loose in front.

Wide part: Shade in a wide part with a dusting of

Toppik Hair Building Fibers or brow

powder. Hairstylist Adir Abergel uses

an eye-shadow brush to blend it in.

You Want to Tie Your Hair Back But

Hate Your…

Three Things You Didn’t Know About Bobby Pins

!The bumpy side should always

touch your scalp. “It keeps the bobby pin from

sliding out,” says New York City hairstylist Nathaniel Hawkins.

“When I teach hairdressers that, it’s the biggest aha moment. Like

they’ve been driving on the wrong side of the road.”

Braids With A Twist

1Get low. French braids look

uptight when they are...up and

tight. Instead of starting flush

against your scalp, begin braiding

a few inches down, around (or even

past) your ears. This is the biggest

difference between a sexy, laid-back

look and a playground style.

2Beef up. Increase the size of

your braid by gently massag-

ing it between your thumbs and

forefingers, says hairstylist James

Pecis. Avoid pulling it apart, which

might be faster but can loosen short,

spiky layers from the braid.

3Tie knots. You’ve mastered

French braids, inside out braids,

and fishtail braids (very impres-

sive!), but the simplest and coolest

new technique involves a series of

basic knots. Take a small piece of

hair from one side of the head, divide

it in two, and tie it into a square knot

(like the first step in tying a shoe-

lace). Continue all the way across,

creating a chain-link effect as you go.

Secure with a small elastic. Pecis likes

to apply this technique to the back of

the head, the front hairline, or even

the top of the head for a unique twist.

Fashion editor Joanna Hillman in New York City

Pieces of fabric toughen up a long braid in Paris.

Model Tilda Lindstam tops her side braid with a headband.

Model Ruby Aldridge in Paris in 2012

A long, loose braid outside the Jil Sander show in Milan

Model Frida Gustavsson after a 2012 Valentino show in Paris

"There is such a thing as

a bad bobby pin. When the two legs of a

bobby pin cross over themselves, throw it

away. “That pin is damaged, and it will never work right,”

says Hawkins.

#Bobby pins hold up hair—they

don’t defy gravity. “If you insert the bobby pin

going down, hair will slide out of it,” says Hawkins. “You’ll create a more secure updo if your bobby pin points up.”

Goody Colour Collection Blonde bobby pin

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Know-It-Alls

Keep It Cool?\�oek�mWdj�je�^[Wj�kf"�oek�^Wl[�je�Yeeb�Zemd$�¼J^[�Z_\\[h[dY[�X[jm[[d�

a blowout that wilts and one that stays perky all night is how long

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a round brush, wrap it around the brush handle and roll it up toward

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into place with a flat curl clip—this keeps the bends and volume

intact. In an ideal world, you’d wear your hair set all the way to work after

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(not your bathroom, which is too warm and moist) should do the trick.

You might assume a red-carpet updo requires teasing, two dozen pins, and a

full can of hair spray. But those are actually the three things Adir Abergel

avoids. The hairstylist, who works with Jessica Biel, let us in on his secrets.

The Art of the Messy Updo

� He starts with volumizer. Abergel

sprays a liquid formula, like Oribe

Maximista Thickening Spray, on roots

(wet or dry) before blow-drying to

give them a piecey, windblown texture

that you can’t get from back-combing.

� He uses only two pins to hold hair

up. You heard that right: two. First,

Abergel curls the hair and spritzes it

with dry texturizing spray (try Rene

Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo) to

create grip. “When you have traction

in your roots, it gives the pins some-

thing to hold on to,” he says. Then

he uses large, U-shaped hairpins

to secure the updo (he loves Gloria

Haarpfeil pins).

� He rarely, if ever, uses hair spray.

After all that prep work, he doesn’t

need it. On the rare occasion he does,

Abergel sprays L’Oréal Paris Elnett

Satin Hairspray on a toothbrush to

clean up flyaways around the hairline

and temples. No matter how messy

the style, those areas should always

look neat, he says.

Jessica Biel at the Golden Globe Awards

TipOffset lots of

height up top with

loose pieces in

front. That will

keep hair looking

soft and sexy, not

rigid or sculpted.

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Know-It-Alls

Root lifter John Frieda

Luxurious Volume Root Booster

BEST FOR: Medium hair that needs a

slight boost

TO USE: Direct the spray where you want

to see liftoff (hint: the front, the crown, and the sides of your part), and blow-dry those areas up and

away from your scalp.

Rough-drying is almost always the first step in any hairstyle because it removes excess moisture and adds lift before you start. But it isn’t nearly as rough as you’d think. The correct way to start drying out:

1Once you’ve showered, flip your head over and

squeeze out any water from your midlengths

and ends with a towel. Things you should never

do with your towel: rub hair (it causes split

ends) or wrap it on top of your head (it flattens roots).

2If you have a cowlick, bangs, or other

potential problem areas, dry them

with a round brush and a blow-dryer right

away. If you don’t, move on to step three.

3With your head still flipped over, massage

your roots while blasting them with warm air

for several seconds. “You want to get the

roots up and off the head as fast as you can

for lift,” says Fugate.

4If you want a big, bouncy blowout, finger-

comb hair upward and follow with the dryer

pointed at a 45-degree angle. If you want a

sleek, sexy blowout, apply the same technique

but in a downward motion. Continue this process all

over until hair is 80 percent dry (just slightly wet—

enough to style with a round brush). You are now free

to finish your blowout.

Get Crafty

A Word on Rough-Drying

Hairstylist Odile Gilbert

has a knack for turning

uncommon objects

into unforgettable hair

accessories. She’s worked

with clay, gold leaf,

and, at one Givenchy show,

even pieces of Murano

chandeliers. She regularly

looks into her craft

box for inspiration—and

you should, too.

Leather stringGreat for tying your shoes—

or tying off a loose braid.

Wrap five to six inches

around the elastic several

times before securing in

a simple knot. “It takes

a hippie look and makes

it more sophisticated,”

Gilbert says.

Satin ribbonLittle bows are for little

girls. Instead, keep the bow

big and let the two loops

flop casually.

Black chiffonThe crepe-y texture creates

an interesting contrast

in hair. At Jason Wu,

Gilbert twined strips of

chiffon around braids

before pinning them back.

Vintage jewelryYou can attach any small

piece of jewelry to a

hairpin using a clear elastic

or floral wire, says Gilbert.

Dry-Shampoo Surprises

Dry shampoo sops up

oil and preserves

blowouts, but that’s just

the beginning. Here,

three uses you might

not have considered.

1. Get a grip.

Coat bobby pins before

slipping them into the

hair, says Townsend. It

gives them a rough,

matte texture so they

won’t budge.

2. Fake lift.

Spray it on roots and

mist the rest of the hair

with salt spray for

amazing, tease-free

volume, says hairstylist

Chris McMillan.

3. Add bulk.

Tousle dry shampoo

through midlengths or

on a ponytail to create

fullness, says hairstylist

Serge Normant.

The Big LeaguesWant bigger, lusher hair? (Is that even a question?) The four volumizers you need now:

Mousse Kérastase Mousse

Substantive

BEST FOR: Medium to thick hair

TO USE: Squeeze a baseball-size mound into the

palm of your hand and work it in from roots to

midlengths, avoiding the ends

(which can turn stiff and crispy).

Volumizing spray

Pantene Volume Touchable Volume

Hairspray

BEST FOR: Fine hair

TO USE: As much as you want to marinate in the stuff, the spray

is lightweight for a reason. Mist sparingly

over wet hair from roots to ends—if you

apply too much, you’ll weigh hair down.

Volumizing spray + gel Pantene Volume

Touchable Volume Hairspray and Kiehl’s

Strong-Hold Styling Gel

BEST FOR: Thick hair

TO USE: Heavy hair falls flat. Mix a drop

of gel with a few sprays of volumizer and

massage into roots. The volumizer dilutes the gel (so it doesn’t feel tacky) and adds lift.

Jason Wu Spring 2011

Rene Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo

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Nail Report

Polished

Get

Glossy black manicures, matching lacquer-and-lipstick

sets, the season’s sexiest shades—we tip off fall’s top nail news.

By Meirav Devash

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Nail Report

Finger on the Pulse

1Prep and clean nails just as you would for a manicure with regular nail polish.

2Pick (or snip) a sticker to fit ev-ery nail. If you can find a sticker match for every nail, good for you.

If you’re like the other 99 percent of the population, trim them. Pick a sticker that’s larger than your nail. Before apply-ing, cut away the excess from the sides using nail scissors and make the rounded end straighter or more curved depend-ing on the shape of your nail. If you don’t have time to trim, err on the small side, since a too-wide sticker will bunch.

3Don’t skip basecoat—it helps nail stickers adhere. “Press them on before the basecoat completely

dries, and it acts as a glue,” says Hipp.

4Warm the sticker slightly by rub-bing it between your fingers to make it more flexible.

5Anchor the round edge at the base of the cuticle. Holding the tip, stretch it over the entire nail.

Seal down the middle and perimeter with your fingers, and flatten any wrin-kles or bubbles with an orange stick.

6To remove the excess length, gently skim a nail file—downward only—over the tip of the nail. Saw-

ing from side to side can tear the wrap.

7You’re technically done. Feel free to rummage through your handbag with abandon.

8 But here’s why you really should consider a topcoat: It locks in shine, keeps the edges from peel-

ing, and generally makes a quickie mani look a whole lot more groomed.

Mastering Nail Stickers

They eliminate smudges and dings (yay) but bring new issues like

misaligned edges and air bubbles (boo). Manicurist Jenna Hipp explains

how to nail them on the first try. Top Fall ShadesSweet tooths beware. Roasted cherry,

buttery caramel, candy-shell red—fall’s sexiest nail-polish shades sound

as delicious as they look.

TipTo protect a

chipped or

splitting nail, use

a nail sticker as

a barrier while

it grows out.

First century

Roman women use scissors to keep nails

“short and pared.”

1600s to 1900s

Noble women of the Qing dynasty wear

six-inch talon-like nail guards inlaid with

gold, silver, and gems as status symbols. 1700s to 1800s

The pointy oval shape known as the filbert

is popular in England; Greek women affix

pistachio shells over their nails.

1856

In Madame Bovary, Gustave Flaubert

describes his protagonist’s

nails as “cleaner

than Dieppe ivory, and

cut almond-shape.”

1896

The House and Home, Volume 2 declares, “The pointed nail

is an abomination” and suggests

“rounding the tips.”

1942

The New York Times reports that long

“pre-war” nails have given way to short, oval ones that don’t “interfere with work.”

Sit in a manicurist’s chair and you’re asked to choose square or round, sometimes squoval. But what about filbert, almond, and duckbill? A look back at nails’ shifting shapes.

7

8

6

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1. Essie nail polish in For

the Twill of It. Upon close

inspection, it’s gray with

iridescent olive; at arm’s

length, it looks almost like

a black pearl.

2. CoverGirl Outlast Stay

Brilliant Nail Gloss in

Vio-Last. This glossy purple

somehow manages to look

both bright and deep.

3. Givenchy Nail Lacquer

in Rose d’Exception. This

dusky rose with a beige

tint is feminine without

looking girlish.

4. Dior Dior Vernis in

Trafalgar. Red is hotter

with an infusion of pink

and a wet-looking finish.

5. Rescue Beauty

Lounge in Cerise Noire.

As appealing on nails

as poached cherries over

ice cream.

6. OPI Nail Lacquer in

A-Piers to Be Tan. Turns out

a buttery caramel color

makes a gorgeous neutral

for medium to dark skin.

7. Revlon Nail Enamel in

Urban. The perfect follow-

up to summer’s sky

blues, it’s as versatile as

dark-rinse denim.

8. Prabal Gurung for

Sally Hansen in Loden

Green. Thanks to

brown undertones, this

army green polish is

sophisticated enough to

wear to the office.

Allergy-Free Tips

Manicure lovers who are

sensitive to the chemi-

cals in polish used to

have to settle for simple

buffing. But in recent

years, most nail companies have elimi-

nated the potentially irritating dibutyl

phthalate, formaldehyde, and toluene

from their their formulas (OPI, Essie, Sally

Hansen, and CoverGirl are all “three-

free”). Now Clinique is upping the ante

with A Different Nail Enamel, a new line

of polishes that, in addition to the usual

offenders, are also free of camphor,

formaldehyde resin, and fragrance. All

12 shades were tested by dermatologists

and ophthalmologists to guarantee that

even the most Sensitive Sally won’t ex-

perience redness around her nail bed af-

ter applying polish or break out in a rash

if she scratches her skin with a lacquered

fingertip. “All of the ingredients omit-

ted from the Clinique polishes can be

irritants, depending on their concentra-

tion,” says Donald Waldorf, a dermatolo-

gist who specializes in contact dermatitis.

“Not having them in the product mark-

edly reduces the chance of an allergic

reaction on both the skin around the

nails and, consequently, the eyelids.”

Pretty in PunkWith black nail polish, there’s a fine line between fashionable

and fashion victim. To de-goth, manicurist Elle suggests

keeping nails short, squoval, and shiny. “Matte topcoats are

major right now, but they make dark polish look

unsophisticated,” she says. Or try one of fall’s superdark

shades as a gateway black. Our favorites: CoverGirl

Stay Brilliant Nail Gloss in Wine Stain, L’Oréal Paris Colour

Riche Nail in After Hours, and OPI Nail Lacquer in Here

Today...Aragon Tomorrow. “Anything that’s almost black—like

navy blue or dark green—still looks edgy,” says Elle.

1965

Cher starts the square-nail trend when she

asks her manicurist, Minni Smith, for

“something different.”

1974

Nails are (still) square. Vogue warns of “hazards that can

easily ruin a manicure—dialing..., typing,

demonstrating a point at a board meeting.”

1985

Lee Pharmaceuticals introduces Press-On

Nails, which adhere to fingers with double-sided tape. Most are over one centimeter

long and have square or squoval tips.

1988

Florence Griffith Joyner sets two

Olympic records wearing long, curved, and graffiti-covered

acrylic talons.

1992

“Her nails upstaged her performance,” says screenwriter Ellen Shepard of

Barbra Streisand’s French manicure in The Prince of Tides.

1984

California manicurist Paula Gilmore

reportedly coins the term “squoval”

(a hybrid of square and oval).

The glossy black manicures backstage at Kenzo’s fall 2013 show

2

3

4

5

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��I^Whf"�bed]"�fe_djo�dW_bi0 “I guess you think danger is attractive? And so is...vampirism? Well, put it this way: It’s attractive in the way imagining someone ripping out your still-beating heart is attractive.”��8bWYa�eh�ikf[hZWha�dW_b�feb_i^0 “See, now, this is just scary enough. Especially when it’s played against a buttoned-up exterior. That makes us think: Damn, this lady is more interesting than we originally thought.”

��9^_ff[Z�feb_i^0 “Maybe you’re not actually a woman who occasionally gets arrested for streetwalking, but there’s just something skeevy

about chipped polish. It’s a warning sign: Something is not right here.”��<h[dY^�cWd_Ykh[0 “You’re a woman who spends lots and lots of time on herself. Maybe you’re familiar with lap dogs. And maybe you own purses just to carry them in. Or perhaps you’re a wealthy native of the Carpathian mountains in Eastern Europe. One thing you’re not is low maintenance. And that’s perfectly OK with us!”

Testing, Testing

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Men on ManicuresWe like nail art. But maybe—just maybe—some men think the edgier nail looks have jumped the (teeny, grinning cartoon) shark. We asked the editors of GQ to explain what men really think of some of the more popular, if questionable, nail effects around. Ȏ:7D?;BB;�F;H=7C;DJ

39% of women have

tried DIY nail art.

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Ever since Revlon

introduced “matching lips

and fingertips” in 1940,

the look has gone from

classy to tacky to simply

uncool. But new sets from

Giorgio Armani, Dior, and,

yes, Revlon give us reason

to reconsider the matchy-

matchy thing. “It evokes

a discipline and glamour

that we’ve lost over the

years,” says makeup artist

Linda Cantello. “Just don’t

match your manicure,

pedicure, and lipstick—

that’s a bit too uptight.”

Cantello’s favorite shade

for coordinating lips and

tips? A supersaturated red.

“The pairing looks wildly

sexy and pulled-together

at the same time.” Below,

some of our favorites.

Perfect Pairs

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1994

In Pulp Fiction, actress Uma Thurman

wears black-red on short, blunt nails,

launching a craze for Chanel Vamp.

1996

Manicurist Tom Bachik files stiletto

nails—long and tapered with pointed

tips—for a CND ad campaign.

2005

With a greater focus on health and

natural products, the squoval shape

gains popularity.

2010

Rihanna, Lady Gaga, and Fergie

are all spotted flexing razor-sharp

stiletto claws on the red carpet.

2011

Snooki pushes the duckbill shape (wide

and flared) at the MTV Europe Music Awards.

2013

Adele wears a nude, elongated almond-shaped manicure at

the Oscars. Manicurist Kimmie Kyees

describes the shape as “rocket ship” nails.

182 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

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http://allure.com

By Ramona Emerson

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Health

Do It YourselfEven dentists who make their living

brightening smiles recommend the

at-home whiteners you can buy at the

drugstore. Here, the tricks to making the

most of DIY bleaching kits:

ʎ�Get a kit with 7 percent hydrogen

peroxide (or 22 percent carbamide

peroxide) that you leave on your teeth for

at least 15 minutes. Strips like Crest

3D White Intensive Professional Effects

Whitestrips and trays like Aqua Fresh

White Teeth Whitening System work

much better than pens. (The bleach from

pens is washed away by saliva.)

ʎ�Have your teeth cleaned before you

bleach—you want to whiten the enamel,

not the plaque. You should brush before

using strips or trays, and rinse really

well, since the fluoride in toothpaste can

prevent teeth from absorbing the bleach.

ʎ�Maintain your new smile by rinsing

your mouth with water after meals and

with a whitening mouthwash (such as

Colgate Optic White Mouthwash) twice a

day. Mouthwashes work better than

whitening toothpastes for this purpose,

according to one recent study.

When to Go ProNot everyone can whiten at home: If you’ve

got gray teeth, fake teeth, sensitive teeth,

or “my wedding is tomorrow” teeth, make

an appointment with a dentist.

ʎ�“If you have to take the ice out of drinks,

you shouldn’t do bleaching at home,” says

Jeff Golub-Evans, a New York City cosmetic

dentist. Sensitivity to cold means you’ll

probably be even more sensitive—if not in

real pain—after bleaching. A dentist or

technician can apply a protective coat of

wax to sensitive areas—fillings, receding

gums, and teeth that have been ground

down—so patients experience less pain.

ʎ�Whitening at home isn’t an option if you

have an event to go to, like, tonight. But

thanks to prescription-strength peroxide

(35 to 40 percent), a dentist can whiten

teeth in 45 minutes, says Golub-Evans.

ʎ�Veneers and ceramic replacements aren’t

affected by bleach, and bonded teeth can

only be restored to their original color.

But all of them can be polished to appear

brighter, says Jeffrey M. Cole, a former

president of the Academy of General

Dentistry. The same goes for gray teeth—

whiteners won’t work.

The next time you’re feeling frustrated by the indignities of a bleaching

tray—drool, how sexy!—consider this: Ancient Romans imported urine from

Portugal to whiten their teeth. A few millennia later, we’ll still do (pretty much)

anything for a beautiful smile. In a recent survey by the American Academy

of Cosmetic Dentistry, women said they were twice as likely to spend money

on improving the appearance of their teeth than making their wrinkles

disappear. From a fossing gizmo that trades string for a blast of vapor to

$100 shots of Botox that can reshape your smile, there are innovative new

ways to brighten up—none of which involve doing as the Romans did.

Great Whites

For basic health and sparkle, dentists recommend the following:

For sensitive teeth:Pearl Gentle White, $195

Strong whiteners can be a pain, but this FDA-cleared device uses a tiny ionic current

to boost the power of a relatively mild gel (6 percent hydrogen peroxide)—without increasing sensitivity. “You get the stain-lifting abilities of a much stronger bleach,” says Los Angeles cosmetic dentist Rene Dell’Acqua.

For those with no time:Crest 3D White 1 Hour Express, $54.99

The classic DIY whitening strip, Crest 3D now comes with a potent

gel (10 percent hydrogen peroxide) that you only have to wear once, for an hour. Period. The strips cling to teeth like a tight Band-Aid, with zero chance of slippage.

For the floss hater:Sonicare AirFloss, $90

Unlike the messy fire-hose approach of a Waterpik, this device uses bursts of water vapor (or mouthwash!) to blast away food

particles and plaque. “It’s great for gaps between teeth, where floss can actually push food down into the gums,” says New York City cosmetic dentist Emanuel Layliev.

For anyone and everyone with teeth:Sonicare FlexCare Platinum toothbrush, $199.99

Some of the scientists behind the Clarisonic skin-cleansing brush also helped develop this toothbrush with bristles that move at 31,000 strokes

per minute. The latest model has a tiny UV sanitizer to kill bacteria on the brush.

WA

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TipMany dentists and

some home-whitening kits

use light, presumably

to accelerate the bleaching,

but there’s no definitive

evidence the light makes

a difference, says Gigi

Meinecke, a spokeswoman

for the Academy

of General Dentistry.

At home, go with

light-free strips or trays.

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The (Im)perfect Smile

What makes the perfect smile? Being Jessica Alba certainly helps. Dentists

told us their patients requested Alba’s smile more

than any other. “Her smile is beautiful but looks real —

it’s not too bright, not too big. The central teeth are

longest and all of them are somewhat rounded, which

looks feminine,” says Golub-Evans. There are four ingredients in the perfectly imperfect smile, according

to the experts. And if you’re so inclined, they’re

all available for a price.

Whitening toothpastes restore some of a smile’s innocence: With pol-

ishing agents like silica (Rembrandt Intense Stain Toothpaste) or

baking soda (Arm & Hammer Advanced White Toothpaste With Stain

Defense), they scrub stains from wine, coffee, and tea. (Some have

bleaching gel, but unless you brush for 20 minutes, you will rinse it

out before it goes to work.) Layliev suggests waiting 30 minutes after a meal before

brushing with a whitening paste, since chewing food leads to higher acidity in the

mouth. “That environment, combined with the polishers in whitening toothpastes, can

mean a lot of erosion,” he says. If you’re adamant about getting a snowier, not just shin-

ier, smile from a tube, try an optical whitening toothpaste, such as Luster Now Instant

Whitening Toothpaste. Instead of scrubbing the surface of the teeth, the toothpaste

deposits microscopic blue particles and polymers that give the illusion of whiteness.

A Mouthwash You Don’t Have to Hide

From the Italian toothpaste maker Marvis comes

an antiseptic mouthwash that looks great on the

shelf. Mouthwash Concentrate in Mint has

natural germ fighters xylitol and propolis. It tastes

like a scary-strong mint and is superconcentrated,

meaning the bottle is small enough to pass for eau

de parfum. Dilute before use, or you may regret it.

Why So Sensitive?The reason whitening can leave your mouth feeling beset by mini lightning bolts is that teeth are riddled with tiny channels that run from the surface to the nerves below. When you bleach, the acidity of the gel forces minerals out of the channels and puts pressure on the nerves. But the discomfort is temporary. Once the pH in the mouth returns to normal (usually within a day), minerals reenter the channels and the problem disappears. Fleeting or not, though, the pain can be avoided:

1Wear protection.

A toothpaste with

potassium nitrate,

like Sensodyne Full

Protection, shores up

the minerals in teeth

and decreases pressure

on the nerves, says

Cole. Golub-Evans

recommends brushing

with one for at least two

weeks before whitening

and before and after

each treatment.

2 Take your time.

We understand—

you want a

blinding smile now. But

skipping a day of

whitening when your

teeth are aching won’t

impede your progress.

“You’ll have the same

result—doing it faster

doesn’t make teeth

whiter,” says Cole.

People with sensitive

teeth shouldn’t use

at-home treatments

that promise results in

fewer than ten days.

3Hot and cold.

Peroxide gel

makes teeth

sensitive to extreme

temperature, especially

cold. Stay away from

chilled food and drinks

immediately after

whitening, says Cole.

4Obvious but

effective. If you

experience

steady, allover

throbbing, take two

ibuprofen 30 minutes

before your next

whitening session

(but not Tylenol, since

acetaminophen

isn’t as effective, says

Golub-Evans).

Whose smile is this?

Answer: Jessica AlbaHealth

Wide span: A woman with a dazzling smile

typically flashes 10 to 12 of her top teeth. For

those who don’t, Salzer uses

Invisalign braces to widen the top

row, bringing more of the back teeth into view.

Good gums: “Ideally, you see one

to two millimeters of pink above the top teeth, max,”

says Meinecke. For $100, a dentist can

inject Botox into muscles along the nose that lift the

lip. The result: more focus on teeth,

less on the gums.

Brushing Tip Wait 30 minutes after a meal

to brush, since acid from chewing food boosts erosion

of the enamel.

Tooth shape: “As teeth wear, they start to

look straight across. A little rounding with a drill can

make someone look years younger,” says Cole. The

contouring is harmless and costs $100 to $300, he says.

Color: A smile should be a little

whiter than the whites of the eyes, says New York City

orthodontist Jennifer Salzer. For teeth that don’t respond

to bleaching, veneers are a (pricey) alternative.

They cost $2,000 per tooth.

Optical Illusions

96%of adults think a smile

is key to attracting members of

the opposite sex.—American Academy

of Cosmetic Dentistry

Skin bleaching in Jamaica provokes sharp reactions from those who call

it dangerous —and those who defend it as self-expression. By Katherine Zoepf

Beyond the PalePhenomenon

Asania Williams moves like a girl

who is comfortable turning heads,

with her chin held high and a speed

and confidence to her strut in high-

heeled sandals. Thin yet curvy, with

delicate features, the 17-year-old

nursing student is very pretty by

any measure. Her hair, dyed fire-

engine red, and her eyes, rimmed

with false lashes and a thick band of black eyeliner, earn

her double takes on any Kingston street. But the most

striking thing about Williams is her complexion. Her

arms, legs, and stomach—visible between a tight, midriff-

revealing T-shirt and a miniskirt—are black, like those of

most Jamaican women of African descent, while the skin

on her face is an astonishing shade of yellowish white.

Williams, as she explains matter-of-factly, is one of a

growing number of Jamaican women who bleach their

skin with outlawed products. At least once a week, she

combines several expensive black-market bleaching

creams containing skin-lightening agents, including ste-

roids and high doses of hydroquinone. She slathers her

face with the concoction and endures about 20 minutes of

stinging pain before rinsing off the creams. The bleaching

agents strain her budget, Williams says, and their strong

odor sometimes leaves her eyes and sinuses burning for

hours after she’s washed them off.

But the results, Williams believes, are well worth the

discomfort: dramatically lighter facial skin that earns her

attention from men and the envy of her female friends.

As for the monetary costs, Williams would rather spend

what she has on the creams than on a luxury such as a cell

phone, and though she hasn’t been able to find work lately,

she says that she hopes her nursing course will allow her

to get a job as a home health aide someday, perhaps even in

the U.S. Occasionally she borrows money from friends to

Bleached skin is just one of the extreme looks that has come out of Jamaican dancehall culture.

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buy her bleaching creams, which can

cost as much as $10 U.S. for a small

tube (per capita income in Jamaica

is around $9,100 U.S. per year, but

many people live on much less).

“When me start, them see I get

pretty and then some of them start,

too,” Williams says of her friends’

attempts to copy her. She has been

bleaching her face for about five

years, she says, though when she

was younger she had to stop periodi-

cally when she was suspended from

school for using the illegal creams:

“Them teachers say, ‘You have to go

home!’ Not all of them notice, but

some of them, they see the differ-

ence between your natural color and

your new face.”

Closely linked to

Jamaican dancehall

culture, the cur-

rent skin-lighten-

ing craze emerged

about a decade ago,

locals say, though

K i n gs to n - b a s e d

dermatologist Neil

Persadsingh says he first started see-

ing patients with skin damaged by

bleaching products in the 1990s. No

figures are available on the percentage

of Jamaicans who lighten their skin,

but it’s nearly impossible to walk down

any of Kingston’s chaotic, trash-strewn

streets without encountering at least a

handful of bleachers, as they’re known

on the island. The bleachers are,

frankly, hard to miss: Like Williams,

some female bleachers also wear arti-

ficial eyelashes and heavy eyeliner,

which looks dramatic and slightly

spooky against their pale skin.

The bleachers stand out in other

ways, too. The dancehall aesthetic is

deliberately bold and highly sexual-

ized, and some skin bleachers cut

panels of fabric out of their already

skintight clothing in order to reveal

a maximum of bare flesh. Against a

backdrop of obvious poverty, with

chickens and feral dogs wandering

freely a few feet away, it is especially

jarring to encounter people dressed

and groomed so theatrically.

In recent years, the Jamaican gov-

ernment has been actively fighting

the skin-bleaching trend, trying to

crack down on wholesalers and retail-

ers of lightening formulas, and run-

ning public-health campaigns about

the dangers of the creams. They warn

of complications ranging from burns,

stretch marks, and acne to far more

serious conditions, like ochronosis, a

permanent thickening and bluish dis-

coloration of the skin, and even kidney

damage. Yet aggressive public-health

efforts—a 2007 campaign by Jamaica’s

Ministry of Health was called “Don’t

Kill the Skin”—have gone unheeded by

most bleachers, who say that the prac-

tice is increasing every year.

Vendors operate openly on the

streets in Kingston’s market districts,

selling bleaching concoctions in

clear plastic bags tied off with rubber

bands, as well as packaged creams with

names like Dermo Gel and Immediat

Claire. Even in winter, the afternoon

sun is scorching. Sandwiched between

produce vendors hawking fruit out of

open crates, most of the sellers squat

in front of lotions arranged on plas-

tic bags—an arrangement that makes

it easy to sweep their wares quickly

into a bag and rush away at the first

sight of approaching police. Though

the ban on skin-lightening products

is sporadically enforced, and the sell-

ers could lose days of earnings in the

event of a raid, the demand for bleach-

es makes this a risk worth taking.

As for the health dangers, derma-

tologist Persadsingh says that most

bleachers see no ill effects: “A lot of

people who bleach stop bleaching for

a while and then go back and bleach

and have no medical problems—just

like the majority of people who take

cocaine don’t have medical prob-

lems.” Yet he still strongly believes that

bleaching must be discouraged because

side effects, even if they are rare, can

indeed be serious, and because there’s

such a wide and utterly unregulated

array of products available. Jamaican

skin bleachers purchase their creams

on the black market—and they rare-

ly have any idea what’s in them, he

explains. Active ingredients may be

anything from turmeric, which has a

mild lightening effect and appears to

be harmless, to topical steroids, which

can cause hormonal imbalances and

terrible acne, and even mercury, which

in large quantities can damage organs.

Skin bleaching is practiced in many

countries, including the United States,

where bleaching supplies are legal

but highly regulated. In New York

City, lightening creams are available

at drugstores, ethnic beauty-supply

stores, and even supermarkets.

Jeanine B. Downie, a dermatolo-

gist in Montclair, New Jersey, and

coauthor of Beautiful Skin of Color:

A Comprehensive Guide to Asian,

Olive, and Dark Skin (HarperCol-

lins), says that skin lightening isn’t

an uncommon request among Ameri-

can patients seeking a dermatologist’s

care. “A major problem for skin of col-

or is uneven tone,” Downie says. She

does prescribe bleaching creams to

patients suffering from dark spots and

pigmentation problems. Creams con-

taining hydroquinone are “good, safe

products” to treat these conditions,

Downie says, if the percentage of

hydroquinone doesn’t exceed certain

levels. (Over-the-counter creams sold

in the United States may contain up to

2 percent hydroquinone, according to

government regulations, and creams

prescribed by doctors typically con-

tain 4 percent.) The Jamaican gov-

ernment, on the other hand, doesn’t

attempt to regulate creams contain-

ing hydroquinone, or any other skin-

bleaching agent, instead choosing to

ban them across the board.

Phenomenon

Lisa Hyper backstage at a concert in Nassau, Bahamas

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Any discussion

of the govern-

ment’s stand

against bleach-

ing inevitably

leads to a dis-

cussion of col-

orism, a legacy

of Jamaica’s

colonial past. As Christopher A. D.

Charles, a lecturer in the political

science department at the University

of the West Indies who has studied

skin bleaching, sees it, a decision to

lighten the skin, he says, is not com-

parable to a straight-haired woman’s

decision to get a perm or a curly-

haired woman’s decision to straight-

en her hair. “There are these benefits

to having light skin,” Charles ex-

plains. “You’re thought to be beau-

tiful, sexy, intelligent, handsome.

That’s why people do it. They see the

privileges that people with light skin

have, and they think, If I lighten my

skin, I’ll get these privileges, too.”

In colonial Jamaica, under British

rule, sexual relationships between

white colonists and black African slaves

were common. Unlike in the United

States, where anti-miscegenation laws

were on the books in many states

until the late 1960s, intermar-

riage between blacks and whites in

Jamaica following the end of slavery

remained possible. The children of

these unions, known as mulattoes,

were given some of the same pro-

tections and privileges as whites.

For Jamaicans, a lighter complexion

wasn’t an indirect marker of prestige,

as it still is in many parts of Asia, but

a very tangible and direct one. Even

today, according to Charles, many

Jamaican businesses prefer to hire

light-skinned employees as reception-

ists, sales clerks, and other positions

that involve customer interaction.

In view of all this, Charles devel-

oped a hypothesis that darker-

skinned Jamaicans might decide

to bleach their skin because of low

self-esteem. But when, as a graduate

student at the City University of New

York, he devised a study to test it—

offering a psychological test designed

to measure self-esteem to a group of

skin bleachers as well as to a group

of nonbleachers —his hypothesis

was disproved. “It turns out the skin

bleachers had the same self-esteem

as people who didn’t bleach,” Charles

says. “I was shocked. My professor

at the time was shocked. These were

people of the same social group,

roughly, with the same levels of edu-

cation. I tried to control for that.”

“In Jamaica, naturally lighter-

skinned people are traditionally

considered to be prettier,” Charles

continues. But among Jamaican skin

bleachers, appearing to have natu-

rally lighter skin is usually no longer

the goal. The desired look is almost

defiant in its artificiality, explains

Winnifred Brown-Glaude, an associate

professor of African-American stud-

ies and sociology at the College of

New Jersey, who has written about

bleaching. She notes that many

bleachers come from Jamaica’s work-

ing class: poor and naturally dark-

skinned women who were previously

powerless or overlooked. According

to Brown-Glaude, skin bleaching and

the rest of the dancehall aesthetic are

a way of claiming the right to be seen.

“These women were historically dis-

missed. Now you see them bleaching

their skin, using dark eyeliner, wear-

ing bleached blonde or hot pink wigs.

They’re saying, ‘Here I am! I am beau-

tiful, and you are going to see me.’ ”

Most skin bleachers we spoke with

seem to roll their eyes at discussions of

Caribbean history or self-esteem. They

insist that they weren’t uncomfortable

with the way they looked before. They

bleach, they say, because their friends

do it, and because it’s in style. Lotrecia

Porteous, 21, says that she’s been

bleaching her face, and sometimes her

arms and legs, for about three years,

though she’s had trouble affording

bleaching creams since she lost her job

selling ice cream. “I’ll do it as long as I

can maintain it financially,” she says.

Perched on a bar stool in a Kingston

pub, Porteous seems confused as to

why lightening the skin might seem

so fraught to an outsider, why it might

touch on questions of racial identity

not raised by other beauty practices.

“Identity?” Porteous repeats, in

puzzlement. She notes, instead, that

it’s become almost impossible for a

girl who doesn’t bleach her face to

find a boyfriend. The government

and the media look down on bleach-

ers, she says, but in her circle, she

can’t think of anyone who doesn’t

bleach at least occasionally.

Lisa Hyper, a well-known Jamaican

dancehall artist, recorded a hit song

called “Proud Ah Mi Bleaching” in

2009 after some of her fans asked

her for a song defending the practice.

“People will always judge and make

negative comments,” said Hyper, who

is 24. “The government and some

people may see bleaching as a deni-

al of who you are—that you bleach

because you’re an unhappy person.

But I do what makes me happy,” she

says proudly. Echoing just about

every woman who has ever been criti-

cized for changing her appearance,

she continues: “I bleach to please me.”

After all, Hyper points out,

Ja maicans are hardly the only women

in the world to experiment with their

skin color—even at considerable risk

to their own health. “I see it like tan-

ning. You have people who tan because

they think it gives them a nice look,

not because they’re in some kind of

denial,” she says. “Why can’t bleaching

be the same kind of thing?” ◆

Phenomenon

Natural-looking lighter skin is no longer the goal.

The desired look is almost defiant in its artificiality.

194 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

This isn’t a diet story about cutting back or learning to go without: New

science can teach us how to feel satisfied with less. By Patrick Rogers

Sonya Thomas isn’t

like the rest of us,

which is probably

a good thing. She

can consume large

amounts of food—

obscene amounts—

and still maintain a

steady weight of 100

pounds. But what attracts the attention

of scientists is this: Thomas, a profes-

sional eater, does not experience the

sensation of fullness that most of us

reach after a satisfying plate of, say,

salmon and snow peas—the sensation

that makes us stop eating. “A normal

person would feel like they were go-

ing to explode after ten hot dogs,”

says Louis Aronne, the director of the

Comprehensive Weight Control Pro-

gram at New York-Presbyterian/Weill

Cornell Medical Center, who discusses

Thomas in his medical lectures. “So

how does somebody fit 45 hot dogs

in her stomach”—Thomas’s world

record—“and not feel full?”

If scientists can understand why

Thomas can eat so much and never

fill up, they might be able to help the

rest of us fill up by eating less. What

we do know about fullness, or sati-

ety, as experts call it, is that it’s not

simply triggered by the amount we

eat—and that fact alone should fill

us with hope. If you’ve ever stuck

to a juice cleanse through the first

agonizing 12 hours, you know the

welcome realization that you’re gen-

uinely less hungry. How did this hap-

pen? Probably not by shrinking your

stomach, says Susan Roberts, a pro-

fessor of nutrition at Tufts University

in Boston and the author of The “I”

Diet (Workman). “Whether it’s physi-

cal or psychological, certainly some

people come back to me and say,

‘Oh, my God, it was easy. I’ve done

it. I’m fine.’ ” And when was the last

time you heard that anything about

changing your diet was easy?

Researchers such as Roberts are

beginning to unwind the knot of

chemical signals—plus external forces

as diverse as the time of day you eat

and the prices on a menu—that define

the point at which you fold your nap-

kin and get up from the table.

No More Hunger GamesDiet

Sequined bracelet by Badgley Mischka. Makeup colors: Intense I-Color Bold Nudes for Blues and Color + Care Liquid Lip Balm in Apple a Day by Almay.

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The process may

look something

like the trajectory

of the ball in a

pinball machine.

Fullness begins

with the sight and

smell of food,

which arouse

smell receptors in the mouth and call

up memories of past meals. Ding!

One bite, then another, travels from

the throat to the stomach, where sug-

ar prompts a spike in insulin—ding!—

and fat and other nutrients send hor-

mones racing to the hypothalamus,

the brain’s clearinghouse for satiety

signals. Stretch receptors fire when

the intestines fill up, and neurotrans-

mitters speed along the nerves, until

the joy of eating turns to discomfort.

Ding! Ding! Game over!

That’s how satiety works for chil-

dren, anyway. As we mature, cultural

cues, emotions, an urge for vari-

ety, and even force of habit—which

explains why the typical person eats

92 percent of what is on her plate,

regardless of portion size—begin to

play a part in setting our threshold

of satisfaction. The feeling of fullness

is so sensitive to outside influence,

says Dana Small, an associate profes-

sor of psychiatry at Yale University,

that people felt more sated drinking

a milkshake described to them as

“indulgent” than one they believed to

be “sensible,” even when both shakes

were identical, according to research

conducted in 2011. The “indulgent”

milkshakes also led to a greater drop

in bloodstream levels of ghrelin, a

hormone associated with hunger.

Fullness is not all in your mind,

of course—what you eat matters,

too. Fiber remains bulky as it passes

through the body, firing off more of

those stretch receptors and signaling

to the brain that satisfaction is at hand.

(Yet another reason to get on the kale

bandwagon.) Studies have proved that

eating protein early in the day pro-

longs a feeling of fullness and leads to

lower total calorie consumption.

Your sense of smell may also play

an important role. To illustrate that

point, for three months research-

ers in Bavaria fed volunteers yogurt

mixed with olive oil. The volunteers

had higher levels of serotonin, a neu-

rotransmitter associated with satiety,

and slightly reduced body fat than

participants in the study who ate

yogurt with other types of added fat.

No one is suggesting you add olive oil

to your Chobani, however. When the

scientists continued the experiment

by adding just the aroma of olive oil

to yogurt, the results were largely the

same. “We wanted to design a product

that gave you the effect of the fat with-

out having the fat itself,” says Malte

Rubach, a researcher at the German

Research Center for Food Chemistry.

While it’s too soon for the (Smells

Like the) Mediterranean Diet, the

study does suggest how significant

odor is in tripping the body’s satisfac-

tion switch, he says.

Resetting your fullness threshold

often feels like a battle of wills with

your taste buds. There’s a food term

from the nation of Georgia: shem-

omedjamo. Loosely translated, it

means “I accidentally ate the whole

thing.” We could use that word here,

too, since we have all seen a cheese

plate or a favorite dessert and

thought, I’m full, but I’m going to

have another piece anyway. Good

food continues to taste good, even

when the body has signaled “game

over,” and in the world we live in,

there is almost always food in front of

us, or nearby. The trick is to draw

both your brain and stomach into the

conversation, says Linda Craighead, a

professor of psychology at Emory

University in Atlanta and an advo-

cate of Buddhist-inspired mindful

eating. It won’t work if you say to

yourself, I can eat until I don’t want

any more, Craighead says. You will

simply eat too much. “Instead,” she

continues, “we need to eat until that

inner voice says, ‘You may not have

had as much food as you want, but

you’ve had enough. You’ll be OK if

you stop now.’ ” New studies of both

the head and the gut can help most

of us heed that sensible inner

voice—and we’re happy to leave the

competitive eating to others.

Wait a MinuteStudents who ate 25 percent of a typi-

cal serving of snack food were just as

satisfied as those who ate the whole

thing—but only 15 minutes later,

according to research published

recently in the journal Food Quality

and Preference. “Your stomach isn’t

counting the chips; it doesn’t have a

memory. It just knows you had a sat-

isfying amount,” says Brian Wansink,

a Cornell University professor of con-

sumer behavior and the author of the

forthcoming book Slim by Design:

Mindless Eating Solutions for

Everyday Life (HarperCollins), who

was involved in the study. This trick

won’t work if you’re staring at the

bag of chips. Tuck it away and write

an email, but get your mind off food.

Size MattersScientists have observed for years that

people seem hardwired to eat what’s

in front of them. In an experiment

that could have been dreamed up by

the producers of Candid Camera,

scientists at the University of Illinois

served soup in “bottomless” bowls

that could be refilled without the

knowledge of the volunteers who

ate from them. Diners with the trick

Diet

“Your stomach isn’t counting the chips; it doesn’t have a memory. It just knows you had a satisfying amount.”

198 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

bowls consumed an astonishing 72

percent more soup than those who

sat in front of a normal bowl. So save

your ten-inch soup bowls for holidays,

and choose modest ones for weekday

dinners. “All these studies show that if

you put food on a large plate, people

will eat more than if you put it on a

small plate,” says Roberts. The reason

has to do with a neurological response

to seeing the larger plate. “Your stom-

ach relaxes, your blood glucose drops,

and that actually makes you hungry

for the food.”

Variety Is The Spice

With food, having more often leads to

bad choices. People who were offered

three different shapes of pasta ate

14 percent more than those who had

access to, say, linguine alone, accord-

ing to one study. Another established

that the average person will eat more

M&Ms out of a bowl that contains sev-

eral different colors versus just one or

two. Don’t fight facts—use them, says

Roberts: “If you like cookies but are

trying to eat more vegetables, stock

up on lots of different vegetables and

just one kind of cookie.”

The Value Proposition

When you’re trying to eat well, snob-

bery isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

In one experiment conducted by

researchers at Stanford University

and the California Institute of

Technology, wine drinkers who were

told they were sipping a $90 vintage

showed a spike of activity in an area

of the prefrontal cortex known as the

brain’s “value center.” When the test

subjects, who were hooked up to MRI

machines, learned that another wine

cost just $10, brain activity dropped

off proportionately. (By now you

can probably guess that the scien-

tists made up the wine prices arbi-

trarily.) That principle can be put

to work, says David Kessler, a for-

mer commissioner of the Food and

Drug Administration and the author

of The End of Overeating: Taking

Control of the Insatiable American

Appetite (Rodale). Tell yourself that

processed foods, which can overload

and desensitize the brain’s pleasure

centers, are not only bad for you, but

also just bad. People who care about

food quality are more likely to con-

sume healthier meals that fill them

up sooner, suggests Kessler, who

acknowledges that the theory has not

been directly tested. “It’s what we did

to tobacco; we changed its acceptabil-

ity, and it became a negative,” he says.

Time It RightWhen you eat is just as important

as what you eat. Take breakfast: In a

study at Boston Children’s Hospital,

a protein-rich serving of eggs kept

test subjects full for considerably lon-

ger than a calorie-equivalent serving

of sweetened instant oatmeal; in the

five hours after the meal, the oatmeal

eaters consumed more than the egg

eaters by an astonishing 80 percent,

probably because of spikes in insulin

levels prompted by sugar. For his part,

Aronne suggests a breakfast of Greek

yogurt, cottage cheese with berries, a

protein shake, or an omelet made with

a whole egg plus egg whites. For lunch

or dinner, he recommends a meal with

lots of salad first, a serving of protein,

and then, when you’re partially full,

a small serving of high-fiber carbo-

hydrates, like quinoa, corn, or even

a slice of whole-wheat bread, since

eliminating those foods from your

diet completely can leave you craving

them more. Avoid starchy and sugary

foods, which cause the rapid fluctua-

tions in insulin levels that make you

hungry, says Craighead. Foods with

high fiber and water content —whole

fruits rather than juices, whole-grain

breads rather than crackers, as well as

soups and stews—help you fill up fast.

Sweet SpotA common type of sugar can have an

odd effect on the brain—namely, none

at all. Using MRIs, Yale scientists com-

pared the brain activity of people who

drank a solution of water and glu-

cose with others who drank fructose.

(Glucose can be found in bread, pasta,

and cereal; fructose, which is sweeter,

is in fruits and honey and is often

added to packaged foods.) In the first

group, activity slowed in the hypothal-

amus, where food satisfaction is pro-

cessed, and the volunteers reported

feeling full. Just the opposite was true

of the group who drank fructose: They

were still hungry, and their brains

remained as active as before. “It was

as if they were still seeking out food,”

says Kathleen Page, an assistant pro-

fessor of medicine at the University of

Southern California’s Keck School of

Medicine in Los Angeles.

Know YourselfPeople on the island of Okinawa have

an unusually long life span, and one

reason may be the common practice,

called hara hachi bu, of ending a

meal when you feel just 80 percent

full. Craighead, the advocate of

mindful eating, says most of us can’t

accurately gauge how much we’ve

eaten, but consciously aiming for

moderation may help to rewire our

fullness mechanisms. In a method

she calls appetite-awareness train-

ing, she suggests beginning each

meal by asking yourself how hun-

gry you are on a scale of one to five,

from “starving” to “stuffed.” Then

eat slowly, savoring each bite, talk-

ing about the food—how it tastes,

the effort that went into preparing

it—and keep a hand on your stomach

to feel for the first signs of expan-

sion. It can take 15 minutes or more

for blood-sugar changes to register

in the brain, she says, but the physi-

cal feeling of a larger stomach can

be felt much sooner. “Everybody

can tell when they feel stuffed, when

they’re completely full. We want to

get people to pay attention to when

they’re comfortably full,” she says.

When practiced regularly as part of a

healthy lifestyle, attentive eaters have

moderate success maintaining a sta-

ble weight and feeling less deprived,

according to several studies. ◆

Diet

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Directory

OUR STAR RATINGS: Poor Fair Good Great Practically Perfect Blew Us Away

Winning Streaks

We tested colorists from New York City to Los Angeles. Here, the highlights. Get more

recommendations for salons and spas across the country at allure.com/salon-spa-reviews.

September 2013 ʎ Hair Color

http://allure.com/salon-spa-reviews

204 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

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New York CityIWbbo�>[hi^X[h][h� �:emdjemdDana Ionato

425 W. 14th St., 212-206-8700

It’s a simple request: Give

our medium brown hair a

boost. But too many colorists

respond by turning our shade

dark and inky, or light and

brassy. Not Ionato, a brunette

with an eye for natural color.

She mixed up a chestnut for-

mula and painted it on our

roots before squeezing it

through our ends—a cool trick

that distributes color while

also diffusing it, preventing a

flat, monotone effect. We

were out the door 40 minutes

later with the brunette shade

of our dreams. $175 and up.

IWbed�I9AMark Sweet

1845 Broadway, 212-265-1700

When you’re a brunette, get-

ting highlights is a lot like

gambling: There’s a fine line

between subtle golden streaks

and cheap coppery ones. But

Sweet leaves nothing to

chance. He placed slender

amber ribbons all around our

face and crown. The slivers of

light looked so natural, we felt

as though we’d won the hair-

color jackpot. Too bad our

revamped color didn’t cover

every gray. $285 and up.

BostonL_i[bb_�IWdjehe�IWbedTobey Van Orsdell

297 Newbury St.,

857-350-4856

Van Orsdell recommended

brightening our deep, dark

brown with dozens of caramel

highlights. But when the foils

came off, the streaks were

much lighter and chunkier

than we’d expected. To his

credit, Van Orsdell fixed the

hiccup with a toner that took

the blonde down a notch and

gave our hair a pretty, beachy

hue. $125 and up.

Washington, D.C.�?fiW�\eh�>W_hCaroline Weintzen

1629 Wisconsin Ave., NW,

202-338-4100

Weintzen listened patiently

while we bemoaned our

mousy brown shade and the

tendency for golden high-

lights to turn brassy on us.

That’s when she suggested

deepening our base, assur-

ing us the richer hue would

add oomph without oxidiz-

ing in the sun. She swiftly

applied a chestnut dye from

top to bottom. The new

shade covered up every lin-

gering hint of brass and

made our fine hair appear

fuller. $90.

Miami�8[Wkjo�IWbedi�e\�7c[h_YW�>W_h�IfWTimothy OÕLeary

7547 S.W. 88th St.,

305-663-9700

As a former colorist at the

posh Cutler South Beach,

O’Leary has a solid reputa-

tion for creating believable

highlights. So solid, in fact,

that we were willing to follow

him to his new salon, located

in the sprawling and not par-

ticularly sexy Dadeland Mall.

It turned out to be a good

move (on our part, anyway).

He first applied a base soft-

ener and a clarifying treat-

ment to brighten our natural

wheat color, then wove in

slender strips of gold. Our

effer vescent champagne

shade positively sparkled—

even under fluorescent lights.

$153 and up.

ChicagoIWbed�KTravis Ivan

2535 N. Lincoln Ave.,

773-327-2622

At heart we’re a natural

blonde, but try telling our

hair that. Keeping our dark

roots in check practically

qualifies as a full-time job.

Ivan suggested a warmer,

sandier tone with just a few

face-framing wisps of plati-

num to make regrowth less

@Wc[i�9ehX[jj�IjkZ_eJames Corbett, 25 W. 19th St., New York City, 212-388-1296

Corbett first gets to know his clients over a glass of wine from

his salonÕs generously stocked bar, then he prescribes hair

color. For us, he recommended an allover semipermanent dye

in deep espresso to cover our grays and add a healthy dose of

shine. He painted on the formula in broad strokes, somehow

re-creating the same glossy, blue-black sheen we had when we

were eight years old. Turns out Corbett knew us even better

than we thought. $150 and up.

The color bar at James Corbett Studio in New York City

Directory

allure.com: Get more recommendations for salons and spas across the country at allure.com/salon-spa-reviews.

September 2013 ʎ Hair Color

http://allure.com


206 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

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noticeable and buy us time

between salon visits. Eight

weeks later, our color still

looks fresh and glossy. $151

and up.

Houston�9[hed�>W_h�IjkZ_eJames Fojt

1180-12 Uptown Park Blvd.,

713-892-8330

Fojt went to beauty school to

meet girls. “I never had more

dates in my life,” he said.

Small wonder: He got our

own heart racing by recom-

mending golden highlights

with lighter, blonder pieces

in front to bring out our eyes.

Following a sex-kitten blow-

out, we were ready to melt a

few hearts of our own. $265.

SeattleI[l[d�IWbedRichard Drews

600 Pine St., 206-903-1777

Drews politely rebuffed our

request for Gisele’s hair color,

warning us the honey hue

would zap the life from our

complexion. As a compro-

mise, he agreed to a richer

cognac tint on just the middle

and ends. The flickers of

warmth peeked through our

deep brown and looked sur-

prisingly natural. Being told

no never felt so good. $105

and up.

San FranciscoIWcco�Eb_l[h�IWbedMichael Madalinski

555 Sutter St., 415-402-0111

“I’m sick of ombré,” Madalin-

ski confessed as he examined

our faded blonde ends, per-

suading us to embrace our

natural chestnut instead. He

swept on a warm chocolate

dye, giving our ends a mocha-

latte tint. The decadent hue

infused our hair with more

shine than we’d ever thought

possible and made our pale

skin glow with health. $100

and up.

Los AngelesD_d[�P[he�Ed[�IWbedRiawna Capri

901 Westbourne Dr.,

West Hollywood, CA,

310-855-9099

We crave a touch of sun-

kissed color as much as the

next Californian, but we told

Capri that we were tired of

our highlights always turn-

ing bright blonde outdoors,

lightening our natural medi-

um brown base. She offered

the ideal solution by paint-

ing on a deep auburn dye,

which darkened our existing

highl ights into warmer

threads of cinnamon and

copper. The results were so

stunning, we’ve been bask-

ing in compliments ever

since. $300 and up.

�9ebehbWX�J_[hhWiWbJuvencio Jimenez-Valdez

548 S. Spring St.,

213-537-0365

Jimenez-Valdez works from

home—a cool industrial

space that doubles as a hair

salon, which itself doubles as

an art gallery. Zeroing in on

the coppery remains of a

previous dye job, he pro-

posed single-process color

for a richer, more uniform

look. The burnished mid-

night hue had such intense

shine, our hair could have

doubled as a mirror. $125

and up.

�HWc_h[p�JhWd�IWbedJohnny Ramirez

8912 W. Olympic Blvd.,

Beverly Hills, 310-724-8167

Before scoring an appoint-

ment with Ramirez, potential

clients must fill out an exten-

sive questionnaire and submit

current photos of themselves,

as well as pictures of the look

they hope to achieve. Once we

landed in his chair (three

weeks later), Ramirez had

zero recollection of the

photos we’d sent. Even more

frustrating, our appointment

lasted a staggering five and a

half hours. The results, how-

ever, far outweighed the

annoyances. We left with the

most stunning, sun-drenched,

believable blonde shade we’d

ever received. $400 and up.

Reported by: Allure staff, New

York City; Nicole Boudreau,

Boston; Adrienne Wichard,

Washington, D.C.; Nikki Novo,

Miami; Nicole Pearl Kaplan,

Chicago; Holly Crawford,

Houston; Lisa Stasiulewicz,

Seattle; Cristina Mueller,

San Francisco; and Melissa

Magsaysay, Natalie Toren, and

Beth Whiffen, Los Angeles.

8kcXb[�WdZ�8kcXb[Zoe Wiepert, 146 E. 56th St., New York City, 212-521-6500

We gave Wiepert a tall (and slightly contradictory) order:

ÒBlonde but not too blonde, natural but also noticeable,

please.Ó She listened, then laid out her plan for us: highlights

in gold and champagne to echo our buttery base, followed

by extra-thin platinum threads for a cool surfer-girl vibe. The

gleaming, sun-drenched results were exactly what we wanted.

ÒGorgeous!Ó Wiepert gushed before we left, stealing the words

right out of our mouth. $250.

allure.com: Get more recommendations for salons and spas across the country at allure.com/salon-spa-reviews.

Zoe Wiepert brightens blonde hair with cool face-framing streaks at Bumble and Bumble in New York City.

Directory September 2013 ʎ Hair Color

http://allure.com


Beauty&theBeat

Double TeethSeen in: Tokyo’s Harajuku districtThe look: Young people in Japan prize a smile with crooked teeth—a slightly awkward quality that they consider kawaii, or adorably cute. Now, women there are intentionally altering their smiles with prosthetic teeth—both temporary and permanent caps—to create the desired snaggletooth effect. There’s even a female pop trio, TYB48, whose members all have yaeba, or “double teeth.”The cost: Up to $390 per tooth

Camel HumpsSeen in: Upscale malls in DubaiThe look: It’s tough to be stylish when you’re draped in a black abaya. But women in the Arab Gulf have begun stuffing fake hair and sponges under their head scarves to create volume at the back of the head—the more, the better, apparently, since some “camel humps” stand a foot tall. While the look attracts attention, it also complies with Islamic tradition, which discourages the display of women’s hair in public.The cost: Depends on the materials used

Eyeball JewelrySeen in: Nightclubs in AmsterdamThe look: Partygoers in the Netherlands are having tiny platinum charms—in the shape of hearts, stars, and dollar signs—surgically implanted into the corneas of their eyes. A doctor uses specialized scissors to make a tiny pocket in the clear conjunctiva before slipping in the wafer-thin charm. Interested? You’ll have to fly to northern Europe; the procedure is not performed here—and is forbidden by law in Illinois.The cost: $1,100 and up

FacekinisSeen on: Crowded beaches in ChinaThe look: In a nation where women carry umbrellas and wear long gloves to shield themselves from the sun, a new form of SPF is all the rage in Qingdao: The “facekini,” a face mask with holes for the eyes, nose, and mouth. Dark skin is associated with peasants in China, and city dwellers are willing to go to great lengths to avoid it. “Does it look like I care what people think?” one facekini-wearing bather at the city’s No. 1 Beach told The

New York Times. “The tourists dress skimpy, but we locals know how to protect our skin.”The cost: $2.50 to $4

Puffy Under-EyesSeen in: Seoul, plastic-surgery capital of the worldThe look: Koreans consider the pillows of skin under the eyes to be hallmarks of youth and sincerity. The effect is caused by the contraction of a tiny muscle called the orbicularis oculi, which atrophies with age, but it can be enhanced with surgery: A doctor places cadaver tissue through incisions just below the lower lids to create more volume there. Love bands, as they are called, also give the illusion of larger eyes. Cosmetics stores sell temporary do-it-yourself taping kits. (Above: Beauty expert Michelle Phan imitates the look with makeup.)The cost: $1,600 for surgery; $26 for temporary kits

Mad, Mad WorldIt’s hard to stand out on a planet of

more than 7 billion people, but

we tip our hats to these contenders:

Unusual beauty trends from

around the globe. By Grace Clarke

A doctor places tissue through incisions just below the eyelids to create more volume there.

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Left, on Edita Vilkeviciute: Bra and panties by Chantal Thomass. Makeup colors: Eyeshadow in Trace and Rouge Coco Shine Lipshine in Scénario by Chanel. Right, on Candice Swanepoel: Tulle-cashmere-and-plastic dress by Valentin Yudashkin. Makeup colors: Cream Blush in Destiny and Rouge Allure Lip Colour in Rouge Noir by Chanel. These pages: Makeup, Tom Pecheux; hair, Orlando Pita of Orlo Salon; manicure, Gina Viviano of Mizu Salon. Prop stylist: Jack Flanagan. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Chocolate LipsWhy play around with timid neutrals? A chocolate

brown lip color is like a “tougher, more intense version of nude,” says Pecheux. A sheer, creamy

finish keeps it from looking brutish.

GET THE LOOK: Pecheux tapped the bullet directly onto the lips until he built up the color to the desired intensity (which, at home, is entirely

up to you). Other factors to consider: shadow (a wash of taupe) and mascara (lots of it).

Plum LipstickSpiked with a dash of burgundy and a hit of black,

plum lipstick becomes “sophisticated in a twisted kind of way,” says makeup artist Tom Pecheux.

GET THE LOOK: “A badass shade like this deserves to be strong and sharp,” says Pecheux, so

layer lipstick on top of a matching lip liner to keep it in place, and use a stiff brush to get precise lines.

Keep your eyes simple with black mascara and your skin looking fresh with highlighter.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO

Autumn Noir

Typical fall colors, like burnt orange and maple red, are nice if you’re

packing up to go leaf peeping in Vermont. Otherwise, yawn. These makeup shades are made for the

cooler, sexier, and more adventurous side of September. By Sophia Panych

Garnet EyesA deep metallic red sounds intense—and that’s exactly how it’s meant to look. “It’s rich and luxurious,” says makeup artist Pat McGrath.

GET THE LOOK: No need to be precise; no need to be precious. Sweep it all over lids, smudge on a ton of black pencil liner along the upper and lower lashes, and call it a (smoking-hot) night.

Emerald ShadowIf you have a few minutes to get all wing-y and artsy with your shadow, let us suggest a metallic green hue.

GET THE LOOK: Rim eyes in black pencil and add a dash of emerald shadow along the lower lashes at the outer corners. “Lining the entire eye can make it look smaller, but a splash of color beneath opens it up,” says Pecheux.

Left: Corset by Tamzin Lillywhite. Leather shoes by Christian Louboutin. Makeup colors: Illuminance Crème Shadow in Moonlit Jewels and Super Lustrous Lipstick in Honey Bare by Revlon. Right: Angora-blend sweater by Balmain. Bikini bottom by Eres. Makeup colors: Illuminance Crème Shadow in Va Va Va Bloom and Super Lustrous Lipstick in Nude Attitude by Revlon. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Glossy LilacWhat shade of purple can you wear on eyes, cheeks, and lips? It’s not a trick question, or a recipe for crazy face—this purple is so glossy and silver-tinged, it works on every feature.

GET THE LOOK: A swipe of delicate lilac on the eyes and lips adds a faint flush of color. Vary the intensity—and opacity—by choosing an eye shadow that’s a touch darker than your lipstick.

Sheer TaupeOn eyes, cheeks, and lips, taupe (that’s brownish gray, to be exact) “has a surprising, understated sex appeal,” says Pecheux. That’s because it has the same undertones as skin. Naked skin.

GET THE LOOK: Dust a matte taupe powder under your cheekbones with an angled brush. Sweep the same shade across your lids in a winged shape. To keep things luminous, dab silver cream on the inner corners of your eyes and swipe on a sheer taupe lipstick. Choose a neutral color two shades deeper than your natural skin tone.

214

Left: Bra and panties by Atsuko Kudo. Makeup colors: Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Surreal Skies and Pure Color Lipstick in Spiked Toffee by Estée Lauder. Right: Sable-fur dress by Burberry Prorsum. Makeup colors: Pure Color EyeShadow in Iridescent Violet and Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Beige by Estée Lauder. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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Violet LinerMetallic purple with flecks of purple

shimmer: Sound a bit like Prince, the makeup collection? Not when it’s worn smudged along

the upper lashes. “It’s so much more interesting than a black liner,” says Pecheux.

GET THE LOOK: Draw a thick line of violet across lids and blur the edges with your fingers.

Purple can swing both ways: A hybrid of red and blue, it accentuates both light and dark eye

colors and works with a nude or red-hot lipstick.

Turquoise StreaksWe’re no strangers to blue eyeliner. Navy,

cobalt, aqua—you name it, we’ve tried it. But this supersaturated turquoise is so fresh

and unexpected, even we’d never worn it before.

GET THE LOOK: Turquoise liner is bright and shocking on its own, and that’s a

good thing. Make it even more so by applying it in a thick, unapologetic swoop that

extends past the corner. Pecheux diffused the tip of the wing with a cotton swab.

Left: Swimsuit by Eres. Makeup colors: Ink It Eye Pencil in Aquamarine Ink and Queen Collection Lipcolor in Temptation by CoverGirl. Right: Wool top by Balenciaga. Bikini bottom by Mikoh Swimwear. Makeup colors: Shadow Pot in 340 and Blast Flipstick Lip Duo in Stunner by CoverGirl. Tattoo artist: Sara Antoinette Martin. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Whether it’s a dose of plum or a

swipe of sheer lilac, you can update

your lipstick palette and still

recognize yourself in the mirror.

1. CoverGirl Queen Collection Lipcolor in Fine Wine 2. L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Lipstick in 850 3. Clé de Peau Beauté Lipstick in 107

Lips

1 2 3218

Lively shadows—metallic cranberry! vivid

turquoise!—replace the usual

autumnal shades, but look just as polished.

1. Revlon PhotoReady Shadow in Muse 2. Estée Lauder Eyeshadow in Sterling Plums 3. M.A.C. Eyeshadow in Eat, Love 4. Shiseido Makeup Eye Color in GR 412 5. Sephora Eyeshadow in Violet Smoky 6. Maybelline New York Color Tattoo Cream Shadow in Tenacious Teal 7. Dior Diorshow Eyeshadow in Tweed 8. Nars Eye Shadow in Yamal

EYES

1 2 3 4

TH

IS P

AG

E A

ND

OP

PO

SIT

E P

AG

E:

RO

GE

R C

AB

EL

LO

Glint-y, dark, glossy—

there is a nail polish

to complement every

makeup look.

1. Chanel Le Vernis in Taboo 2. Jinsoon nail polish in Epidote 3. OPI Nail Lacquer in It’s All San Andreas’s Fault

Nails

1 2 3

219

5 6 7 8

StylishHow to Be

Only fashion amateurs save

their best getups for going

out. The newest clothes for

fall are perfect for the office—

and chic enough to put

Saturday night to shame. By Elizabeth Siegel

This flinty gray coat acts more

like a dress—and it’s lightweight

enough that you can wear

it both inside and out for three

(maybe four) months a year,

depending on where you live.

Layer it over a sweater in the

winter or a short dress with

sleeves in the warmer months.

The color works with basically

any other solid shade.

The Coatdress

PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEBASTIAN KIM

If you want to look serious but not

severe, walk into a meeting wearing

an all-white outfit, especially one

in a luxurious fabric. Your safest

bets: a tailored wool jacket or fitted

cashmere sweater over straight-leg

wool pants or a pleated leather skirt.

Black boots add a level of cool.

The White Suit

221

Wool jacket, leather skirt and boots, and belt by Calvin Klein Collection. Gold plate ring by Laruicci. Rings by Jennifer Fisher. Lasting Finish by Kate Lipstick in 113 by Rimmel London. Opposite page: Cotton-blend coat by Marni. Leather shoes by Donna Karan New York. Gloves by Portolano Products. Pony-hair bag by Alexander Wang. Makeup colors: Eyes to Kill Eye Shadow in 8 and Lip Maestro in 202 by Giorgio Armani. These pages: Hair, Diego Da Silva; makeup, Yumi Mori; manicure, Tatyana Molot. Prop stylist: Lisa Gwilliam. Models: Nadja Bender, Jordan Stenmark, and Zac Stenmark. Fashion editor: Siobhan Bonnouvrier. Details, see Shopping Guide.

The Watch

A clutch at the office seems weird...and maybe a little walk of shame–y. But this one is so

simple and sophisticated, just think of it more like the world’s coolest briefcase.

The Clutch

Slim, grown-up, and

discreet, this stainless steel

watch is just as

sophisticated as the

season’s sharp clothing—

and won’t draw attention

away from it, either.

SHAPE Ladylike and classic—it’s inspired by vintage Chanel watches.

SILVER CHAIN Gutsy, plus it blends in with your bracelets.

FACE No numbers to mar the clean aesthetic. (Come on, you can tell time.)

Chanel stainless steel watch, $4,600, at Chanel stores.

“Shape and texture.” That’s

what you should look

for in your new fall heels,

says designer Brian

Atwood. “Fashion is so

minimal this fall, you want

pumps that make your

wardrobe pop.” According

to Atwood, there are

three things to look for.

The Pumps

CLASP Flat, so it won’t bang against your desk.

SOMETHING

CLEVER “The scalloped edge is unique, but clean. And because the toe isn’t too long, it flatters the foot.”

SLIM HEELS “Stilettos complement fall’s slim pants and skirts.”

CALF HAIR “The high shine makes the shoes work for the office or cocktails.”

SLATE GRAY The dark neutral looks especially smart with fall’s black, navy, and white clothes.

CLASP The gold piece gives

a little femininity to the utilitarian design.

FRONT POCKET Allows easy access to

slim items, like a smartphone or a mini tablet.

Chloé leather bag, $2,995, at Barneys New York stores.

Brian Atwood calf-hair heels, $865,

at Brian Atwood, N.Y.C. (212-415-4739).

DA

VID

CO

OK

The Wrap Skirt

Silk top, garbardine skirt, and leather satchel by Reed Krakoff. Gold-and-leather watch by Cartier. Makeup colors: The Eyeshadow in Desert and The Lipstick in True Monica by Dolce & Gabbana. Details, see Shopping Guide.

We’ve got two very good reasons for revisiting wrap

skirts: They’re sexy as hell, but completely office

appropriate. “A wrap skirt’s slit is suggestive, but it’s

covered up enough that it’s tasteful,” says designer Reed

Krakoff, who likes just-above-the-knee styles for work.

“When you take the shape of the classic wrap skirt and

make it in a body-hugging fabric with a monochromatic

outfit, you get something chic and new.” Tuck in a

soft blouse (you need a bit of volume for balance), add

black knee-high boots or heels, and you’re done.223

Viscose top and skirt, leather boots, and felt bag by Céline. Makeup colors: Photo Op Eye Shadow Trio in Cover Shoot and Be Legendary Lipstick in Cognac by Smashbox. Opposite page: Wool twill jacket and pants, silk top, and leather booties by Narciso Rodriguez. Crystal ring from Atelier Swarovski by Zaldy. Makeup colors: Warm Glow Natural Bronzer in Copper Glow and Lip Velvet lipstick in Pink Apricot by Burberry Beauty. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Button-downs tucked into pencil

skirts flatter exactly three

people. (And one of them just

gained a pound, so now it’s

down to two.) This pastel peach

skirt flares just below the knee, a

silhouette that’s elegant and

forgiving—a rare combination.

The structured shape and hint of

color call for a sleek sweater

(that means no cable knits) in a

neutral shade, like cream.

The Mash-up

The Suit“A loose-fitting jacket without a

collar or lapel makes a suit cooler,”

says designer Narciso Rodriguez,

adding, “Structured shoulders

are on trend for fall.” The strong

touch—call them shoulder pads

light—ensures the jacket is polished

and professional. Buttons are

optional: Rodriguez’s jacket doesn’t

have any, but it’s OK if yours

does. Just don’t fasten them all.

The finishing touches: a black

or cream silk blouse and slim pants

that taper at the ankles.

Tablet Extra: To watch a

behind-the-scenes

video with more

styling tips for

fall, download Allure

to your tablet.225

Show up to your next lunch in a deep

blue peacoat, and you’re going

to look commanding—just ask the navy.

The trick to looking like you’re not

actually a sea captain is to find a peacoat

that’s not too boxy, has a belted

waist and narrow sleeves, and isn’t

double breasted. The right one

looks particularly good with slim pants

and simple clutches; embellishments

are juvenile and just all wrong.

The Coat

Wool nylon coat, polypropylene elastane turtleneck, and wool-blend pants by Jil Sander. Faux-leather bag by Stella McCartney. Belt by Jutta Neumann New York. Makeup colors: 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Incognito and Rouge Dior lipstick in Grège by Dior. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Satin top and wool pants by Derek Lam. Gold bracelet by Chloé. Gold plate ring by Vita Fede. Makeup colors: Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Downtown Brown and SuperStay Lipcolor in Constant Toast by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.

You just know you’d never catch

this woman in a starchy cotton

button-down. Her blouses are pretty

and functional because they’re

slim, silky, and jibe with the rest of

the outfit. That means balancing

proportion—say, a fitted top with

wide-leg pants—and choosing

an understated color palette, which

is easy given fall’s monochromatic-

ish looks. And yes, three-quarter

sleeves are back—except that they

never really went away.

The Blouse

227

SIZE “The bottoms shouldn’t sit below the orbital bone. That’s when cat-eyes become comical.”

CAT-EYE FRAMES “They make your cheekbones look higher. But exaggerated cat-eyes are too retro. Ones with flat, tapered edges look modern.”

COLOR “Opaque frames contrast too much with your skin. Translucent deep black flatters blondes and brunettes.”

Linda Farrow glasses, $530 (lindafarrow.com).

You get one semiquirky accessory: cat-eye reading glasses. “But they’re not elongated,” says Tracy

Sedino, the marketing director at Linda Farrow. “They’re minimal with a little something special.”

The Glasses

1Stop using

jackets for

warmth. Their

function is to give

you swagger and

awesomeness. And

that awesomeness

comes from propping

a jacket on your

shoulders (pick one

with structured

shoulders and walk

a little slower, so it

doesn’t slide off and

make you look like a

tool). As far as you’re

concerned, it doesn’t

even have sleeves.

2Your feet

don’t get cold

anymore,

either. You wear

open toes in the

winter (OK, with

thick, completely

opaque tights). If

it’s snowing out, you

have permission to

wear boots, as long

as they’re leather

and look somewhat

equestrian. But not

Uggs, obviously.

3Carry every

handbag

as if it were

a clutch. Even if

there’s a shoulder

chain, don’t put it

on your shoulder.

Just trust us on this

one. (Handbags this

season are sleek and

minimalist, so this

is easier than you

think.) Your jacket

is taking up all of

the room on your

shoulders now,

anyway.

4Wear

sunglasses

everywhere—

especially when it’s

cloudy—except

the top of your head.

That’s way too

pedestrian. You know

what’s the opposite

of pedestrian?

Sunglasses that

could hide an Olsen

twin. The bigger the

frames and the

darker the lenses,

the better.

If you’ve ever longed to trade your

entire wardrobe for gray pantsuits

and white jackets and creamy coats

with big collars, we get it: We’re

obsessed with Scandal, too. The

show’s costume designer, Lyn

Paolo, reveals her secrets for mak-

ing Kerry Washington—sorry,

Olivia Pope—the most stylish glad-

iator in a suit.

Buy a large leather handbag, or

just borrow one for a few months.

“The first time I met Kerry was

at Warner Bros. Studio. She saw

my chocolate brown Prada hand-

bag and loved it, so she used it

in the pilot.”

Find one pair of gray trousers that

you love. “Olivia wears the same

classic Armani pants all the time,

and no one notices because we

switch up her tops. The pants are

high-waisted and wide-legged to

make her look taller. Ask your

tailor to hem your pants slightly

longer, wear them with heels, and all

of a sudden, you’re five seven instead

of five three.”

Then tuck in a silk blouse. Pref-

erably in white or cream. But soft

gray, soft pink, or soft pinkish

gray works, too. “Phillip Lim

makes beautiful blouses. And if

you stick to one color palette, it’s

easy to get dressed.”

Avoid excess like ruffles and

prints. “Simplicity is elegant. A

two-and-a-half-inch frill down the

front of a shirt is distracting.”

Oversize collars and big lapels

are mandatory. “If you’re petite,

like Kerry, strong shoulders give an

impression of confidence. Olivia’s

jackets at the moment are by Tom

Ford, Dior, Escada, and Armani.”

Slip on a long necklace—prefera-

bly with pearls—and a waist-

defining belt. “Ippolita and Wendy

Brigode make great necklaces—

they’re present but not flashy—to

wear over blouses. And try belts

from designers like Céline and Don-

na Karan over jackets. It gives a

strong silhouette.”

Olivia Pope, Fashion Idol

“Since clothes are sleeker this season, they look cool with hair and

makeup that’s a little rebellious—but still OK for work,” says Garren of the

Garren New York salon in New York City. Start with messy waves. All

you need is a large curling iron (hold it vertically, and twirl large sections of

hair around from ear height down) and a wide-tooth comb. “Running

a comb through the waves once or twice messes them up and makes them

look freer,” says Garren. The same relaxed approach applies to makeup.

“Defined brows and shimmery brown shadow make you look confident, in

a put-together and office-appropriate way,” says makeup artist

Fulvia Farolfi, who likes smudging dark brown along the upper lashes

with a sponge brush. Finish with lengthening mascara and a

sheer lipstick. “It’s flattering without being distracting,” says Farolfi.

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Lipshine in Boy

How to Dress Like a Fashion Editor Because looking cooler than everyone else is their job.

The Hair and MakeupD

AV

ID C

OO

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228

http://lindafarrow.com

Tweed skirt suits used to be all old-school

elegance. Then Proenza Schouler designed this

one out of woven leather, and we fell in

love with uniforms all over again. Whether it’s

wool tweed or leather tweed, look for a black-

and-white twill or herringbone pattern, and

wear it with fitted black pants and a solid black

or white blouse. The most modern jackets are

short and have no lapels or visible buttons.

The Tweed

Woven-leather jacket and skirt, chain-embroidered top, and leather-and-rubber shoes by Proenza Schouler. Gloves by Gaspar Gloves. Makeup colors: Palette City Drive in Classy and Rouge Pur Couture lip stain in 25 by Yves Saint Laurent. Details, see Shopping Guide.

Chop ChopDon’t call it a cute pixie. The hottest/coolest

haircut of the season may be short, but it’s not exactly sweet. By Meirav Devash

PHOTOGRAPHED BY TOM MUNRO

Silk cardigan by Nina Ricci. Makeup colors: Artliner eyeliner in Noir, Blush Subtil in Sheer Amourose, and Rouge in Love lipstick in Sweet Embrace by Lancôme. These pages: Hair, Garren of the Garren New York salon; makeup, Gucci Westman; manicure, Gina Edwards. Models: Jessica Stam and Chris Folz. Prop stylist: Lisa Gwilliam. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.

This ingenue look works for every day and is “beyond easy to style,” says Garren.

While the hair was still wet, he spritzed it with Garren New York Designing Spray

Tonic and combed it against model Jessica Stam’s head “like a little cloche,” with

the bangs swished slightly to the side. Once the hair air-dried, he used his fingers to

rake a smoothing serum through from roots to tips, making it “casual and piecey.”

Modern Sweep THE LOOK

231

1Adding volume at the crown.

Two words: Kate Gosselin. “When

you puff up the back and flatten

the front like a little Texas bouf-

fant, it looks old-fashioned,” Garren says.

2Excessive blow-drying. Lazy

women, rejoice and hit snooze.

“It’s better to blow a short cut

around 50 percent dry, run a lit-

tle wax or serum through it, then let it air-

dry on its own,” Garren says. “That gives

it natural-looking lift.”

3Getting too slick. When a woman

uses heavy gel to comb her hair

back like Dracula, the results can

indeed be monstrous. For some

chic James Dean swagger, rake it back

with a pomade or wax—Garren likes Rene

Furterer Vegetal Styling Wax—“but not

slicked to the head,” he says. “Keep some

height at the top and the sides really tight.”

4Overworking it. Too many prod-

ucts, too much heat styling, and

too much time spent perfecting

your hair in the mirror can result

in a dorky Zack Morris helmet. Hairstylist

Matt Fugate, who also styles Stam’s hair,

suggests a breezy trick involving a dab of

wax rubbed vigorously between the hands

and a move we’ll call the arcade claw: Nestle

the fingertips into the hair in a pitchfork

formation, then pinch the fingers togeth-

er and pull hair up through the ends.

5Battling your bangs. Hair that’s

longer at the crown than on the

sides is one of the keys to short-

haircut harmony; it makes Garren

crazy to see bangs being tucked behind

the ears or pinned over to one side. “Why

did you get bangs if you don’t want them?

Enjoy them, then move on,” he says.

(They’ll grow out soon enough.)

5 Short-Hair Styling Mistakes to Avoid

Styling the latest cool-girl

hair is easy; mustering

the guts to chop it all off is

the tough part. Well,

that, and actually getting

the right cut. (If you

have springy curls, this

isn’t it. “If your hair is

kinky-curly or frizzy, you’ll

always be fighting with

it, unless you chemically

relax it,” Garren says.)

First, go to a stylist you

trust. Second, bring a

photo of the hair you want.

Then have these talking

points handy.

For thick, medium, or wavy hair:

If you have bulky hair like

Stam’s, ask for the exact

cut Garren gave her,

a boyish crop pointed at

the nape of the neck,

with slightly more length

at the sides and a top

layer that’s long at the

crown with lots of snipped

bits that arc from the

eyebrows downward.

For fine hair: More weight at the ends

will keep them from

looking fluffy. Tell your

stylist you’d like the top of

your hair long and full,

with a few angled layers

starting at the brows.

There are several reasons a woman

might hesitate to cut her hair

short—chief among them, acciden-

tally being called “sir” and getting

locked into the practical-enough-

for-a-PTA-meeting look day in, day

out. But the new crop that Garren

of the Garren New York salon in

New York City gave model Jessica

Stam solves these issues. It’s cool, feminine, and sexy,

for starters. Then there’s the versatility factor: “This

cut incorporates elements of a shaggy blunt bob with

long bangs; if you comb straight down, it’s a very strict-

looking layered bowl,” Garren says—but the point is that

you can lift, swoop, and even rough it up a little. “There

are endless ways to wear it.” These are our top three.

Keeping Trim

It’s no secret: Short

styles require

maintenance. Miss a

haircut appointment,

and you may

unwittingly end up

with a Pat Benatar shag

or a mullet. Fugate

advises a trim every

four weeks for short

hair; otherwise, it

will “get heavy, lose its

shape, and grow

into a mushroom.”

Deconstructing The Cut

232

Makeup colors: Infallible the Super Slim Liquid Eyeliner in Black, Visible Lift Color Lift Blush in Nude Lift, and Infallible lipstick in Refined Ruby by L’Oréal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide.

This rough, sexy iteration began with the air-dry method. Garren then elevated

the hair all over with a blast from a blow-dryer and rubbed wax between his

palms before using his fingertips to rake it through the hair, concentrating on

the ends. “That makes it fuller and messier,” he says. He finished by holding his

fingers at the scalp and spritzing just the roots with hair spray, leaving the base

supported and the ends falling naturally.

Muss, No FussTHE LOOK

Evening hair needn’t always be sleek or accessorized—these big, soft curls “tap into the

’80s look in a cool way while still looking grown-up,” says Garren, who used a half-inch

curling iron to curl one-inch sections of hair back toward the crown. He ran pomade

through the hair with his fingers “to get all the little separations in it,” and haphazardly

pulled some pieces forward. “Using your fingers gives it a cooler look,” he says.

Retro GlamourTHE LOOK

TipMousy medium brown

can make short hair look

blah. “Go for a bright

blonde or a deep, rich

brown,” says Fugate.

Off-white cashmere ribbed sweater by Balenciaga. Details, see Shopping Guide.

TO ADD TEXTURE TO FINE HAIR:

Kérastase Nutritive Sérum Oléo-Relax

“Instead of heavy pomade, use

this serum and your fingers. Raking it

through the roots leaves groove

marks, so you can see all the layers,”

says Garren.

L’Oréal Paris Elnett hair spray

Lift the roots with your fingers and

mist them lightly “for a touch

of volume all over,” says Garren.

TO TAME THICK HAIR:

OriginalMineral K-Gravel Texture Clay

“It’s got ground-up pumice in it, so it

has a ton of hold without looking

shiny or greasy,” says Fugate.

Evian spray

Stow one in your purse for touch-ups:

“If your hair gets too dry-looking

or puffy, mist and run your hands

through it to tone it down

a bit,” says Garren. “But this only works

if your hair isn’t frizzy.”

Mane Lines

235

236

Surprise SKIN SINS

Are juice fasts and Instagram binges bad for you? Yes—but not necessarily in the way you might think. By Jolene Edgar

Bad skin habits have always

reflected the culture and

values of the time. A decade

ago—before the dawn of

Instagram—our complex-

ions merely had to cope with

such misdeeds as overzeal-

ous scrubbing and skipping moisturizer:

How quaint. But modern life has ushered in

a whole new pack of bad skin habits. And

stealthy ones, at that. Who would’ve guessed

that going on a health kick, complete with a

juice cleanse and daily Bikram yoga, could

mess up your skin? But there’s no need to

panic. Dermatologists, sleep scientists, and

exercise experts have antidotes for your

(modern) skin-wrecking ways. Follow their

advice as though it were Miley’s Twitter feed.

1Staying Up With

Your Screen“Too wired to sleep” used to be a met-

aphor; these days, it’s simply a fact:

Ninety-five percent of us use elec-

tronics within the hour before bed

at least a few nights a week, accord-

ing to a National Sleep Foundation

survey. “This cuts into sleep time

and alters our circadian rhythms,”

says Phyllis C. Zee, the director

of the Sleep Disorders Center at

Northwestern Memorial Hospital in

Chicago. Exposure to bright screens

after sunset suppresses melatonin,

the hormone that influences our cir-

cadian rhythms and makes us sleepy.

And what matters is not only how

much you sleep, but when—and how

consistently. “Irregular sleep patterns

deprive you of deep sleep,” which is

when the brain releases growth hor-

mones needed for cellular repair, Zee

says. “And circadian disruption is

associated with higher inflammation;

decreased ability of tissue, including

skin, to use energy; and decreased

regeneration of tissues.” Any woman

worth her undereye concealer knows

that even just a few sleepless nights

can tank your looks. A new study

conducted by Estée Lauder found

that people who slept fewer than

five hours a night experienced more

water loss (indicating a compromised

skin barrier that can’t hold moisture)

and took longer to recover from sun-

burns than those who logged more

than seven hours a night.

GOOD BEHAVIOR: Instead of

attempting to swear off technology,

make it work for you. Download

the f.lux app, which automatically

adjusts the color of your screen to a

mellower, less blue tone in the eve-

ning. “Our internal clocks are less

sensitive to the warmer red range of

light, so this can definitely help,” says

Zee. When you lose sleep during the

week, don’t try to catch up by napping

the entire day away on weekends. Zee

recommends extending weekend rest

by two hours a day, tops. To offset the

barrier-depleting effects of sleep loss,

drink plenty of water daily, and apply

a night cream with ceramides and

humectants before bed.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLAS MOORE

TipEighty-nine

percent of people

say their skin

sufers when they

pull an all-nighter.

—allure.com poll

All those energy drinks could be making your skin look tired.

Makeup colors: ColorStay Eye Shadow in Goddess, Powder Blush in Softspoken Pink, and ColorStay Lipstick in Private Viewing by Revlon. Hair: Rita Marmor. Makeup: Brigitte Reiss-Andersen. Manicure: Elle. Prop stylist: Mary Howard Studio. Model: Brooklyn Decker. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.

http://allure.com

238

2Overheated

WorkoutsExercise trends have gone from “Never

let ’em see you sweat” to “Harder, better,

faster, stronger” in what seems like a

heartbeat. But today’s extreme sweat is

often at least partly induced by outside

heat—like, say, a thermostat cranked

to 105 degrees Fahrenheit in a Bikram

shala or some Barre Method studios—

which has the potential to damage skin.

“Bodies packed in like sardines also

create a lot of heat,” says Traci D. Mitch-

ell, a personal trainer in Chicago. “Even

if your Spinning studio is 80 degrees,

your body is feeling close to triple dig-

its. The mirrors in my SoulCycle class

fog up completely.” A new study from

Avon found that exposing skin cells

to 107-degree temperatures generates

damaging free radicals. Recent research

also suggests that high heat can worsen

hyperpigmentation by stimulating

melanocytes, or pigment-producing

cells, says Jessica Wu, an assistant clini-

cal professor of dermatology at USC’s

Keck School of Medicine, who urges

melasma patients to avoid hot classes.

(Those with rosacea should already be

avoiding heat; it increases blood flow,

which can lead to a red face.)

GOOD BEHAVIOR: Bring a bottle of

mineral-water spray, like Evian Facial

Spray (the minerals are cooling), to

your next hot-yoga class. Mist your

face every ten minutes or so during

your workout to “cool off and dimin-

ish redness,” says Jeannette Graf, an

assistant clinical professor of derma-

tology at Mount Sinai Medical Center

in New York City. Immediately after-

ward, drink a glass of ice water to cool

your core, suggests Doris Day, a clini-

cal associate professor of dermatol-

ogy at NYU Langone Medical Center.

When you’re done, take a lukewarm—

not frigid—shower to lower your body

temperature gradually. Lightweight

serums, gels, or lotions with anti-

inflammatories, like green tea extract,

can help quell remaining redness (try

Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum).

Your Smartphone HabitImagine if your iPhone automatically “checked in” wherever it went:

It’s by the sink in the ladies’ room! Being tapped by your just-touched-the-

subway-pole fingers! And now…rubbing against your cheek. Ew.

A number of studies have looked at smartphones’ incredible germ-carrying

potential: In one, British researchers noted a bacterial count that

rivaled the average public toilet seat. Another, published in the Journal of

Applied Microbiology, found that 20 to 30 percent of viruses can be

transferred from fingertips to touchscreens. “All that dirt, oil, and bacteria

can quickly break you out,” says Joshua Zeichner, the director

of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Medical Center in

New York City, who sees cases of “smartphone acne” on either side of the

face, from the upper cheek to the jawline.

GOOD BEHAVIOR: The Violight UV Cell Phone Sanitizer is a favorite

of Ava Shamban, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology

at UCLA; it “uses UV light and ozone to fry bacteria in less than five

minutes,” she says. PhoneSoap, debuting this month, destroys

bacteria with UV light while simultaneously charging your device. And

antibacterial products made for electronics, like Wireless

Wipes and iKlenz Cleaner Solution, disinfect without harming delicate

screens. If the damage is done, apply a product containing

2 percent salicylic acid or 2.5 percent benzoyl peroxide twice a day

(try Philosophy Clear Days Ahead Spot Treatment) to eradicate zits.

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The consequences of being glued to your smartphone aren’t always pretty.

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4Getting Juiced

One thing is certain: Fruits and veg-

etables are healthy. So subsisting on

their juices for a few days could

only be extra-healthy, right? Well,

the first problem with most over-

the-counter juices is that they’re

really high in sugar: BluePrint’s

P.A.M. juice has 45 grams, and

Organic Avenue’s Royal Red drink

contains 30 grams (a can of Coke

has 39 grams). When you drink

nothing but juice, explains Wu, “you

get a spike in blood sugar and insu-

lin, which can trigger a cascade of

hormonal effects, including elevat-

ed androgens, the acne-causing

male hormones.” This can affect

skin in as little as seven days. Sugar

molecules in the bloodstream can

also latch onto and degrade colla-

gen and elastin fibers in a process

called glycation, which leads to

wrinkles and sagging. “This doesn’t

translate to a 20-year-old suddenly

looking 90,” concedes David Bank,

an assistant clinical professor at

Columbia Presbyterian Medical

Center in New York City. “But her

skin won’t glow as it should, and it

may show early signs of aging, like

lines and loss of plumpness.” A sin-

gle cleanse won’t wreck you; routine

sugar fluctuations will.

GOOD BEHAVIOR: Keep cleanses

short (one to three days) and infre-

quent (every other month, max).

Look for low-sugar vegetable-based

blends (LizzyJays makes a green

juice with only two grams of sugar;

Urban Remedy has several with sev-

en). Or make your own in a Vitamix

blender, rather than a juicer, so

you get the benefits of fiber. (“It

can slow the absorption of sugar

into your system, so there’s less of

an insulin effect, and in turn, less

acne and glycation,” says Wu.) Start

with greens and add only enough

low-sugar fruit, like berries, melon,

or apple, to make the drink palat-

able, plus almond or cashew milk

for protein, suggests Graf. The skin

needs protein to build new collagen

and elastin, and nut-derived milks

are also rich in good fats—essential

for a healthy, hydrated skin barrier.

5UV Amnesia

UV rays are bad for your skin: Duh.

So why are so many young wom-

en making a beeline for them?

“Millennials are tanning in droves,”

notes Boston dermatologist Ranella

Hirsch. The majority of women who

tan indoors are 18 to 25 years old.

As a result, “we’re seeing enormous

numbers of very young women with

advanced melanomas,” she adds. In

the past 40 years, melanoma rates in

women 18 to 34 have jumped 800 per-

cent. That’s not a typo: 800 percent.

And 31 percent of Americans say

they never wear sunscreen, accord-

ing to a Consumer Reports National

Research Center poll. “They don’t

realize sun damage is cumulative,”

says Karyn Grossman, chief of der-

matology at St. John’s Medical Center

in Santa Monica. “Bake in your teens

and 20s, and you’ll increase your

cancer risk and start seeing little

lines and dark spots by 30.”

GOOD BEHAVIOR: Nobody’s say-

ing you have to permanently

embrace being pale (although por-

celain skin is a good look—just ask

Scarlett Johansson). Pretty much

everything we once hated about

self-tanners—the orange tint, the

smell, the streakiness—is a thing

of the past, now that products like

Jergens Natural Glow (and, if you’re

a millionaire, La Mer The Face and

Body Gradual Tan) are available.

And how hard is it, really, to use a

face cream with SPF 30 every morn-

ing? (L’Oréal Paris Youth Code is a

nice, indulgent one.) Consider the

payoff: In a new Australian study,

participants who applied broad-

spectrum sunscreen daily showed

no measurable increase in skin

aging at the end of the four-and-a-

half-year trial.

6Cocktail Hours

Indulging in alcohol isn’t exactly

a new problem—no doubt there are

papyri buried somewhere showing

tiny figures stumbling and waving

as they walk like Egyptians. What’s

changed is how often we indulge.

According to a Gallup poll, nearly

half of white women are regular

drinkers. But all those (very) happy

hours can lead to (very) dry skin,

a sign of the number-one side effect

of excessive drinking: dehydration.

“When skin’s water level drops

below what’s optimal, it turns dull

and dusky,” says Bank. “And fine

lines become more evident when

skin isn’t plumped with moisture.”

A study in Skin Pharmacology and

Physiology also found that alcohol

decreases the concentration of

antioxidants in the skin, leaving it

more susceptible to sun damage

and premature aging. (No wonder

other studies have found that

drinking alcohol is associated with

an increased risk of sunburn and

melanoma.) Then there’s the fact

that alcohol is a vasodilator,

meaning it aggravates rosacea.

Oh, and cocktails with added sugar

can cause the same acne and

glycation we mentioned earlier.

GOOD BEHAVIOR: Did all of the

above make you feel like you could

really use a drink? Well, no one’s

going to tell you you can’t have one.

Just try to keep it to one when

possible, and choose wisely at the

bar, especially if you’re prone to

flushing or pimples. “Not all alcohol

is sugar,” notes Wu. “It contains

varying amounts of carbohydrates,

depending on the drink, but alcohol

alone won’t raise your blood-

glucose level.” It’s the sweet tonic

in your G&T you need to watch

out for. Wu orders mojitos made

with club soda and only half

the usual sugar syrup. And try to

follow each drink with a glass

of water to curb dehydration.

LEATHER SLIT SKIRT

Leather skirt and top, leather-and-mink shoes, leather bag, and sunglasses by Fendi. Necklace by Laruicci. Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Damask by Laura Mercier. These pages: Hair, Teddy Charles; makeup, Fulvia Farolfi; manicure, Sheril Bailey. Prop stylist: Todd Wiggins of the Mary Howard Studio. Models: Julia Frauche and Chris Whelan. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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VELVET JACKET

Velvet neoprene blazer and gloves by Emporio Armani. Viscose skirt by Oscar de la Renta. Fox- fur collar by Helen Yarmak. Makeup colors: Ink It eye pencil in Black Ink, Clean Glow Blusher in Roses, and Smoochies Lip Balm in Smooch by CoverGirl. Details, see Shopping Guide.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY NICOLAS MOORE

Hot Pursuits

Day looks for your darkest hour:

Plush wraps, power-hungry suits, slick

little shoes, and a good cover.

PERSIAN LAMB SUIT

Persian lamb jacket and skirt, goat-hair shawl, python clutch, and gloves by Gucci. Makeup colors: Infallible The Super Slim Liquid Eyeliner in Black, True Match Blush in Warm, and Colour Caresse Shine Stain in Eternally Nude by L’Oréal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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CUT-OUT FUR

Mink shawl, wool top and skirt, leather shoes, belt, silver necklace, and gloves by Michael Kors. Makeup colors: Luminizing Satin Eye Color in BK 915 and Lacquer Rouge lipstick in RD 215 by Shiseido Makeup. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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DEEP CUFFS

Wool twill jacket and skirt, leather shoes, and belt by Prada. Makeup colors: Mystikol Powdered Eyeliner in Onyx and Lipstick in Theresa by Jane Iredale. On him: Shirt and suit by Dior Homme. Leather shoes by Marc Jacobs. Tie by Calvin Klein. Details, see Shopping Guide.

PANELED SKIRT

Silk skirt and top by Sportmax. Fox-fur shawl by Vera Wang Collection. Gloves by Michael Kors. Crocodile clutch by Bottega Veneta. Belt by Jason Wu. Sunglasses by Fendi. Necklace by Chanel. Beautiful Color Moisturizing Lipstick in Beauty by Elizabeth Arden. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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OPEN JACKET

Wool jacket and skirt, python shoes, and fox-fur stole by Marc Jacobs. Crocodile-and-mink bag by Louis Vuitton. Makeup colors: Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Black Mystery and Color Whisper lipstick in Made-It Mauve by Maybelline New York. Details, see Shopping Guide.

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Wool felt coat, Shetland wool vest, leather skirt, belt, and silk-satin-and-leather shoes by Prada. Bra by Calvin Klein. MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Soft Raspberry by Neutrogena. These pages: Hair, Peter Gray; makeup, Tyron Machhausen; manicure, Ashlie Johnson. Prop stylist: Thomas Thurnauer. Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco. Details, see Shopping Guide.

248

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

A Life in FullJennifer Garner is a good girl whoÕs played badasses.

Now, she transcends her action pastÑand avoids becoming just the Òwife of.Ó By Judith Newman

Today, the woman who built her career wielding spies’

weapons is running around in something far more dan-

gerous: six-inch heels. By my count, Jennifer Garner has

sped like Secretariat eight times in the highest heels I’ve

ever seen. We’re on a college campus, and she’s filming a

scene in Draft Day, a movie about the Cleveland Browns’

fight to win the first draft pick in the NFL. The scene I’m

watching involves a spoiler, so all I can say is this: The

camera rolls, Garner is running, and when director Ivan

Reitman yells “Cut,” she’s hobbling.

“You can’t do anything but a bunny hop in heels like those,” she tells me

later in her trailer, where she’s traded her character’s A-line skirt and crisp

white shirt for sweats and moccasins. “Normally I try to be nice to my feet and

tendons when I jog.” The woman who kickboxed and nunchaku-ed her way to

stardom in the 2000s in Alias, Daredevil, and Elektra now has a slightly dif-

ferent attitude: The High-Heeled Dash is more her idea of action these days.

“I like the focus of getting in shape for those parts,” she says. “Except I don’t

know how I can do that with kids.”

After taking some time off from movies to be home with her three children,

Garner is rebooting her career—and to a certain extent reinventing it, too. Fans

will see her in a controversial and deeply felt role opposite Matthew McConaughey

in Dallas Buyers Club, at the Toronto International Film Festival this month and

opening nationwide in December. She talks about playing a doctor conducting

drug trials on dying AIDS patients. “It’s gritty. Sometimes it’s very tough to watch,”

Garner says. Also tough to watch: the physical transformation of McConaughey,

who became emaciated to play the part. “Matthew’s a very disciplined guy. He

didn’t just stop eating and fast. He was slow, methodical, thoughtful about it. And

consistent. He was functioning, but he cut his calories down to about 700 a day.”

Garner’s transfor-

mations, at this

point, aren’t phys-

ical; they’re in the

characters she’s

choosing. She’s

evolved from an

action star to a reaction star; her fin-

est moments are not the ones where

she’s chewing (or karate-chopping)

the scenery, but the ones where she’s

simply reacting to everyone around

her. Who can forget the moment in

Juno, in which she played an infer-

tile woman who desperately wants to

adopt a teenage girl’s unborn child?

Complaining about her pregnancy,

the girl thoughtlessly says to Garner’s

character, “Well, you’re lucky it’s not

you,” and the look on Garner’s face

would break your heart.

In that role, Garner was 35. But cer-

tainly these days, at 41, she is going

through what may be a rite of passage

for beautiful women over 40 in Holly-

wood: How do you keep the A-list career

while acknowledging and respect-

ing the passage of time? Although she

hasn’t partaken of anything needle- or

scalpel-related yet, she has no particu-

lar policy, pro or con, about plastic sur-

gery, she says, “because I’m old enough

to know policies don’t necessarily last,

so be careful what box you stand on.”

It may be time to try Botox, but she’s a

little scared “because I have a big fore-

head, and I don’t want it to be like this

slab, a big glacier.”

Her role model is Annette Bening,

an extraordinary actress whom

Garner has loved since The Grifters

and is about to work with in the

movie Imagine. A mutual friend told

them they were quite alike—“similar

sense of humor, same kind of pur-

pose.” And to Garner, Bening seems to

have done the impossible, or at least

the unlikely: maintained a large family

and a larger-than-life husband.

The demands of doing just that

made Garner slightly nuts on the set

of Dallas Buyers Club. “My baby was

with me,” she says. “I was trying to

pump and trying to nurse. I was try-

ing to be there and be home.” And

even though now she’s finally relaxed

about being back to work, there is still

the tug. While we talk, she’s texting

her husband, Ben Affleck, about their

kids’ schedules and proudly show-

ing me photos of daughter Seraphina

in full princess costume. Unlike so

many actors who are at the top of their

game, acting was never Plan A for her.

“I had a baby doll tucked under my

arm everywhere I went,” Garner says.

When she was a young teenager, “my

friend and I ran a babysitting service,

C&J Babysitting. I think we made $2 an

hour. If you’d said to me, ‘You could be

a mom or you could be anything else in

the world,’ I would have been a mom.”

Yet she was also a theater geek.

Garner grew up in West Virginia, the

middle of three sisters, with a moth-

er who was an English teacher and

a father who was a chemical engi-

neer; they saw every play that passed

through town. In addition to the baby-

sitting, she sold ice cream, poured cof-

fee at church brunches, worked at the

local men’s store, and taught ballet to

tots. “We had a clothing allowance of

$200 twice a year, and that had to buy

our winter coat, our underwear, our

shoes,” she says. To this day, Garner

is thrifty, through she prefers to call it

“having common sense.”

Though the Garner sisters were

beauties (Jennifer considers herself

the “odd, angular” one), looks and style

were not exactly a priority. “My mother

has the healthiest lack of vanity I’ve ever

known,” Garner says. Hair? “No layers,

no perms, no colors.” No ear piercings,

either. “Look,” she says, showing me

her unpierced lobes. So I take it, no tat-

toos? Garner looks like I slapped her

across the face. “Oh, my gosh, no! Gar-

ner girls don’t have tattoos.”

Garner moved to New York City

in 1994 and quickly began landing

roles in the theater, small TV parts,

and ultimately the role of Ashton

“People see paparazzi

shots of us together all the time.

There’s no mystery.”

Physical Education The highlights of Garner’s action-packed onscreen history.

In Alias “This was the first episode after the pilot, and I was still learning how to fight. I had stunt people teaching me. I knew choreography from dance, thank God, but to put power in it...it was intense.”

In Daredevil “I was in really good shape here! I had these weapons I had to hold. And from the impact of hitting them over and over, my hands were so swollen that for three days I couldn’t touch the tops of my fingers together.”

In Daredevil “We wanted the character to have a very superhero-y look. This was the most muscle I’ve ever put on. But it was too much. It took me a couple of years to lose it. It’s hard to lose muscle and still stay fit.”

In Elektra “This movie wasn’t very good, but it was the best shape I’d ever been in in my life. It was a spin-off of Daredevil, but I went for a different body type, just much more sleek and lean and toned. I should have just done this movie naked.”

2001 2003 2003

2005

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Wool flannel vest and dress, wool sweater, and belt by Lanvin. Makeup colors: Crease Proof Eye Shadow in Lasting Taupe and MoistureSmooth Color Stick in Warm Caramel by Neutrogena. Details, see Shopping Guide.

251

Kutcher’s girlfriend in Dude, Where’s

My Car? in 2000. A recurring part on

Felicity as the fresh-faced girlfriend

of her future real-life husband Scott

Foley (they divorced in 2003) led to

the hard-bodied quasi-superhero

Sydney Bristow in Alias and other

action roles that involved body trans-

formations. “There were times I had

to watch every calorie that went into

my body,” Garner says. “Doing some-

thing like that again...it’s not exactly

on the top of my list.”

Garner met Affleck

while working on

Pearl Harbor in

2001. But she was

still married to

Foley, and soon

after , Aff leck

became half of Bennifer; he and Jen-

nifer Lopez were paparazzi darlings.

After the ensuing flameout—and

when Garner and Affleck did become

romantically involved—Garner must

have seemed...well, like a Garner

girl: spirited and interesting yet not

given to overt drama.

What were her first impressions of

Affleck? “Well, he’s taller than you’d

expect and more handsome than

you’d think he could be,” Garner says.

“But I also was very aware during the

making of Pearl Harbor that every-

one was on their best behavior when

he was around. Because he’s a really

nice guy, and he leads by example. He

just quietly wouldn’t put up with any-

thing else. So in a movie that could

get a little bit hard, it wasn’t, if he was

there. I remember really thinking that

was pretty cool. I didn’t think I would

marry him, though.” She believed

that she’d end up “with a man like

my dad —somebody who wore a suit

to work every day.” Clearly Affleck

didn’t fit that mold. “My dad has this

quiet authority,” she says thoughtfully.

“They have that in common.”

Presumably, then, Garner and

Affleck will be in more movies

together? Garner furrows her brow.

“You know, it doesn’t make practical

sense. When’s he’s directing, especial-

ly, I need to be taking care of him. I

need to be taking care of our family.

Really, you don’t want to see a couple

onscreen.” Admittedly, it may not

have worked out so well when Affleck

was paired with Lopez onscreen, but

Spencer Tracy and Katharine Hep-

burn, Bogie and Bacall.... “Right,

but they weren’t exposed the way we

are now. People see paparazzi shots

of us together all the time. There’s

no mystery. People are sick of us.”

Garner and Affleck often don’t even

attend award shows together, though

she was there when Affleck’s movie

Argo won best picture at the Acad-

emy Awards this year and he gave his

Berkeley- therapist speech about how

“marriage is work.” (Amusingly, when

Affleck hosted Saturday Night Live

last season, Garner appeared with him

onstage. “What would you have called

it in a speech?” he asked sheepishly.

“A gift,” said Garner, jokingly tight-

lipped. “I would have said, ‘Thank you

to my wife, our marriage is a gift.’ ”)

“It’s a very conscious decision”

to not go to every Hollywood event

together, Garner says. “Sometimes it’s

a pain because my heels are so high

and it would be really nice to have his

arm. And he’s such a great date! But

it can be too much. I think especially

for women, they can really lose their

identity and just become ‘wife of.’ ”

While Garner may fear overexpo-

sure as a Hollywood “power couple,”

she also understands that in the

future she may have to be his perma-

date on the campaign trail. For years

there have been rumors that Affleck,

whose Eastern Congo Initiative brings

aid to one of the most war-ravaged

areas of the world, will be running for

political office. I thought when I asked

Garner how she’d feel about being a

politician’s wife that she’d pooh-pooh

the whole idea. She doesn’t.

“Right now he feels like he can do

more good for people politically from

outside the system,” she says. “Would

I be surprised if one day he did go

into politics? No. But not now.” She

considers him for a moment, with a

combination of admiration, love, and

bemusement. “I’m along for the ride.”

And her own ride? She is very hap-

py, at the moment, to be lending her

considerable talents to

pursuits beyond playing

with dolls and readings

of Where the Wild Things

Are. But she’s got no

grand plan. “Right now

what I look for is the size

of the role, not to be the

lead,” she says. Which is

not to say she’s not a driv-

en person. “Like, I can’t

play Words With Friends

with my mother,” she tells me cheerful-

ly. “If she beats me, I just get too mad.”

Garner may have traded in her war-

rior’s bodice for a doctor’s white coat,

but underneath still beats the heart of

an ass-kicking action hero. ◆

Beauty CallThe expression “natural beauty”

may be overused, but it’s

unavoidable when describing Garner.

Here’s how she gets that way.

What skin-care trick do you swear by?

“Skin has to be clean, and it has to

have sunscreen. And then everything

else after that is gravy. Sleep is

really important, too, but I don’t get

enough sleep for my skin.

I don’t know what woman does.”

What skin-care product can’t you

live without? “I’m starting to

use more stuff that has things like

alpha hydroxy [acid] or retinol.

But I really don’t believe that your

skin-care products have to be

the fanciest things in the world. I like

drugstore products, especially

sunscreen, because I use so much of

it—I like Neutrogena Ultra Sheer

Liquid sunscreen SPF 70.” [Garner is

a spokeswoman for Neutrogena.]

What about hair products? “I have

no idea how women who go to an

office in the morning do it. I don’t use

hair-care products, and I don’t

blow-dry. I don’t even know where

the blow-dryer is. So the thought

of having to incorporate that into my

morning just seems crazy to me.”

What’s the best trick you’ve learned

from a makeup artist? “Use

good brushes! And a nice lip balm.”

What’s your workout routine? “I’ve

been working out with Valerie Waters

for 13 or 14 years. I’ll do different

things. I did Spin for a little while, and

I like yoga. I’ve been doing Pilates

with this woman who was trying to get

my abs back in shape

after the last baby kind of did me in.”

What grooming ritual would you

never let your husband see?

“Well, no man needs to be around

when anything is getting waxed, ever.”

Tablet

Extra:

For a video

interview with

Jennifer Garner,

download Allure

to your tablet.

252

2011

Circa 1985

2000

2000

2001

With Scott Foley at the Hollow Man premiere in Los Angeles “Oh, he’s a great guy. We were full-on grown-ups, but looking back I’m aware we did not know what hit us. We didn’t have a shot. He’s a really good guy, and we just imploded.”

With Bradley Cooper in Alias “Laura Goldsmith did the clothes. She had specific looks for my casual look, my work look, and then I did a fancy wigged-out look every episode. And look at Bradley Cooper. Have you ever seen anyone cuter? They made him dye his hair blonde.”

With Michael Vartan in Alias “This is the last episode of season one. I love Michael Vartan. They loved the nightclub scenes in that show. I was always saying to them, ‘Guys, when I’m dressed up in a different outfit, make me a man. Make me a fat janitor or something.’ ”

2002

At the Golden Globe Awards in Beverly Hills “Oh, best ever. I liked this Vera Wang dress because it was athletic and simple. Chris McMillan did my hair. I think he was at my house for 15 minutes.”

With Colin Farrell, Michael Clarke Duncan, and Ben Affleck at the premiere of Daredevil in Los Angeles “Michael Clarke Duncan, what a wonderful guy. The dress was Cavalli. I don’t know if I’d choose that dress now.... It’s not structured, and it kind of washes me out, and my lipstick is too washed out, too. You evolve, don’t you?”

With Ben Affleck in Daredevil “Oh, I don’t really want to talk about that.... What is there to say? This is from Daredevil, and we shot all night. We shot all night and kept going. It was a 20-hour day. We shot until 2 the next afternoon. They had to block the sun out to keep the room dark.” With Reese Witherspoon at an

event for the Children’s Defense Fund in Beverly Hills “Reese is one of my go-to mamas. She has such a big heart and a good head on her shoulders. She’s one of the people I go to and say, ‘Hey, what do you do about X, Y, Z,’ and she always has an answer.”

2006

With Timothy Olyphant in Catch and Release “We were in Vancouver. It was freezing.”

2007With Anne Hathaway and Jessica Biel at the Valentine’s Day premiere in Hollywood “Two lovely ladies—ooh, look what I’m wearing! I don’t know where that came from, but va-va-voom! I wish I could wear that now.”

With Russell Brand in Arthur “Oh, this was so much fun. I knew I was going to have to ride a horse, so I practiced, but on a horse that you had to light a fire under. And then we got there, with this movie horse who was galloping and poor Russell was sitting bareback on it, holding on to me. And I am not an experienced rider, and it was not like anyone said, ‘Oh, take it easy.’ ”

With Jared Leto filming Dallas Buyers Club “He is so intense here. You can see I did not sit in the makeup chair. The clothing was very ’80s: printed dresses and high-waisted jeans.”

With Affleck on Saturday Night Live “This just happened. I didn’t know I was doing the show that night. Ben was like, ‘Can you come here a little early? We have an idea for something.’ I got there and I realized, Oh, no, this is happening.”

2013

Eighth-grade yearbook photo “Aw, look! And yep, I still look like that. My hair: I would sleep in pink sponge rollers every other night. Or curl the bangs with hot rollers.”

With Marla Sokoloff, Seann William Scott, and Ashton Kutcher in Dude, Where’s My Car? “I still love all these people. I keep in touch with Marla, and I still love Ashton. I’ve worked with him since.”

2003

2002

With Ellen Page in Juno “Part of the reason Jason [Reitman] is such a good director is that he knows when less works better than more. I remember him telling me, ‘You can get this emotional, and no more,’ like, ‘Don’t let anything spill over—stop here.’ ”

2007 2010

2012With Matthew McConaughey at the premiere of Ghosts of Girlfriends Past in Los Angeles “Matthew’s the ultimate leading man.”

With Affleck at the Vanity Fair Oscar party in Los Angeles “That was a good night. Good dress! Gucci.”

2013

With Affleck at the Screen Actors Guild Awards in Los Angeles “This was fun because Victor [Garber] was there—and because they won. And I was 100 percent sure they weren’t gonna win. And they did! And [Affleck] was so thrilled out of his mind.”

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Shopping GuideCover: Louis Vuitton silk-lace-and-feather dress, price available upon request. Select Louis Vuitton stores. Cover Look, page 62: Louis Vuitton silk-lace-and-feather dress, price available upon request. Select Louis Vuitton stores. Allure’s Face, page 76: Jason Wu silk gown, $4,990. Jasonwu studio.com. Joan Hornig cuff, $295. Joanhornig .com. Fashion Bulletin, page 101: Oscar de la Renta Jacquard gown, $7,490; silk sandals, $1,115; gloves, price available upon request; and crystal earrings, $295. Oscardelarenta.com. Fashion Cravings, page 102: Lanvin wool jacket, $4,240, and skirt, $2,080; leather shoes, $1,320; and belt, $790. Lanvin, N.Y.C. 646-329-0380. Lanvin leather bag, $2,210. Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-833-2200. Fashion Expert, page 108: Giambattista Valli wool-and-mink-fur coat, $18,000, and wool pants, $1,150. Saks Fifth Avenue, N.Y.C. 212-753-4000. Autumn Noir, page 211: Chan-tal Thomass bra, $115, and panties, $65. Chantal thomass.fr. Valentin Yudashkin tulle-cashmere- and-plastic dress, price available upon request. Yudashkin.com. Page 212: Tamzin Lillywhite corset, price available upon request. Tamzinlillywhite.co.uk. Christian Louboutin leather shoes, $625. Christian Louboutin, Costa Mesa, California. 714-754-9200. Balmain angora-blend sweater, $4,200. Barneys .com. Eres bikini bottom, $185. 888-656-ERES. Page 215: Atsuko Kudo bra and panties, prices available upon request. Atsukokudo.com. Burberry Prorsum sable-fur dress, $2,495. Burberry.com. Page 217: Eres swimsuit, $595. 888-656-ERES. Balenciaga wool top, $1,545. Balenciaga, N.Y.C. 212-206-0872. Mikoh Swimwear bikini bottom, $78. Revolveclothing.com. How to Be Stylish, page 221: Calvin Klein Collection wool jacket, $3,995; leather skirt, $3,295, and boots, $1,225; and belt, $745. Calvin Klein Collection, N.Y.C. 212-292-9000. Laruicci gold plate ring, $463. La ruicci.com. Jennifer Fisher rings, $140 each. Jennifer fisherjewelry.com. Thomas Pink wool suit, $1,400. Thomaspink.com. Uniqlo wool turtleneck, $39.90. Uniqlo.com. Grenson leather shoes, $385. Grenson .co.uk. Gucci cashmere turtleneck, $995. Gucci stores. Marni cotton-blend coat, $3,450. Marni stores. Donna Karan New York leather shoes, $1,095. Donna Karan stores. Alexander Wang pony-hair bag, $1,400. Alexanderwang.com. Portolano Products gloves, $200. 212-719-4403. Rag & Bone wool coat, $895. Neiman Marcus stores. Brioni cashmere silk turtleneck, $950. Brioni stores. Jil Sander wool pants, $1,090. Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-833-2200. Page 223: Reed Krakoff silk top, $990; gabardine skirt, $990; and leather satchel, $1,190. Reedkrakoff .com. Cartier gold-and-leather watch, $17,000. Cartier.us. Burberry London cotton trench coat, $1,695. Burberry.com. Michael Kors wool suit, $695. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Hamilton Shirts poplin shirt, $325. Hamiltonshirts.com. The Tie Bar tie, $15. Thetiebar.com. Hermès alligator-and-leather watch, $5,350. Hermès.com. Page 224: Céline viscose top, $2,350, and skirt, $1,550. Capitol, Charlotte, North Carolina. 704-366-0388. Céline leather boots, $2,890, and felt bag, $1,200. Céline, Miami. 305-866-1888. Theory wool polyamide coat, $695. Blooming-

dale’s stores. Paul Smith wool suit, $1,530. Paul Smith, N.Y.C. 646-613-3060. Bally cashmere turtle-neck, $1,295. Bally, N.Y.C. 212-751-9082. Paul Smith wool suit, $1,530. Paul Smith, N.Y.C. 646-613-3060. David Yurman stainless steel watch, $4,400. David yurman.com. Narciso Rodriguez wool twill jacket, $2,195, and pants, $1,095; and silk top, $895. Marios, Seattle. 206-223-1461. Narciso Rodriguez leather booties, $1,195. Barneys New York, N.Y.C. 212-833-2200. Atelier Swarovski by Zaldy crystal ring, $220. Swarovski, N.Y.C. 212-308-1710. Thomas Pink wool suit, $1,400, and poplin shirt, $185. Thomaspink .com. The Tie Bar tie, $15. Thetiebar.com. Grenson leather shoes, $380. Grenson.co.uk. Hamilton Shirts poplin shirt, $325. Hamiltonshirts.com. Page 226: Jil Sander wool nylon coat, $2,950. Jil Sander, N.Y.C. 212-925-2345. Jil Sander polypropylene elastane turtleneck, $790. Neiman Marcus stores. Jil Sander wool-blend pants, $830. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Stella McCartney faux-leather bag, $770. Stella Mc-Cartney, N.Y.C. 212-255-1556. Jutta Neumann New York belt, $210. Jutttaneumann-newyork.com. Calvin Klein wool coat, $295. Macy’s stores. Brunello Cuci-nelli cashmere turtleneck, $1,165. Brunello Cucinelli, N.Y.C. 212-813-0900. Paul Smith wool suit, $1,530. Paul Smith, N.Y.C. 646-613-3060. Page 227: Derek Lam satin top, $1,290, and wool pants, $990. Barneys New York. 212-833-2200. Chloé gold bracelet, $675. Chloé, N.Y.C. 646-350-1770. Vita Fede gold plate ring, $275. Vitafede.com. Michael Kors wool suit, $695. Saks Fifth Avenue stores. Hamilton Shirts poplin shirt, $325. Hamiltonshirts.com. Calvin Klein tie, $65. Calvinklein.com. Thomas Pink shirt, $185. Thomas pink.com. The Tie Bar tie, $15. Thetiebar.com. Page 229: Proenza Schouler woven-leather jacket, $9,000, and skirt, $9,500; chain-embroidered top, $7,365; and leather-and-rubber shoes, $945. Proenza Schouler, N.Y.C. 212-585-3200. Gaspar Gloves gloves, $235. Gaspargloves.com. Gucci cashmere turtleneck, $995. Select Gucci stores. Levi’s jeans, $64 to $78. Levi.com. Dior Homme technical-canvas trench coat, $2,350. Diorhomme.com. Uniqlo wool turtleneck, $39.90. Uniqlo.com. Calvin Klein polyes-ter jacket, $250. Macy’s stores. Chop Chop, page 230: Nina Ricci silk cardigan, $975. Barneys New York stores. Dior Homme cotton shirt, $590, and silk tie, $190. Diorhomme.com. Page 233: Gap cotton polyester spandex tank top, $16.50. Gap.com. Page 235: Balenciaga cashmere ribbed sweater, $495. Balenciaga, N.Y.C. 212-206-0872. Gucci silk cotton poplin suit, $2,150. Gucci.com. Dior Homme cotton shirt, $590. Diorhomme.com. Hot Pursuits, page 240: Fendi leather skirt, $2,300, and top, price avail-able upon request; leather-and-mink shoes, $1,990; leather bag, $4,000; and sunglasses, $395. Fendi, N.Y.C. 212-759-4646. Laruicci necklace, $625. La ruicci.com. Page 241: Emporio Armani velvet neo-prene blazer, $895. Emporio Armani stores. Emporio Armani gloves, $295. Select Emporio Armani stores. Oscar de la Renta viscose skirt, $1,690. Neiman Mar-cus stores. Helen Yarmak fox-fur collar, price avail-able upon request. 212-245-0777. Page 242: Gucci Persian lamb jacket, $16,900, and skirt, $14,000;

goat-hair shawl, $3,900; python clutch, $2,390; and gloves, $525. Select Gucci stores. Page 244: Michael Kors mink shawl, $9,500; wool top, $350, and skirt, $1,150; leather shoes, price available upon request for similar styles; belt, $450; silver neck-lace, $350 for similar styles; and gloves, price avail-able upon request for similar styles. Select Michael Kors stores. Page 245: Prada wool twill jacket, $1,995, and skirt, $1,315; leather shoes, price available upon request; and belt, $475. Select Prada stores. Dior Homme wool suit, $3,000, and cotton shirt, $590. Dior Homme stores. Marc Jacobs leath-er shoes, $695. Marc Jacobs, N.Y.C. 212-343-1490. Calvin Klein tie, $59.50. Macy’s stores. Page 246: Sportmax silk skirt, $750, and top, $795. Sportmax, N.Y.C. 212-674-1817. Vera Wang Collection fox-fur shawl, $2,495. Vera Wang, N.Y.C. 212-382-2184. Mi-chael Kors gloves, price available upon request for similar styles. Select Michael Kors stores. Bottega Veneta crocodile clutch, $8,600. Bottega Veneta stores. Jason Wu belt, $495. Jasonwustudio.com. Fendi sunglasses, $395. Fendi, N.Y.C. 212-759-4646. Chanel necklace, $2,795. Select Chanel stores. Page 247: Marc Jacobs wool jacket, $1,600, and skirt, $685; python shoes, $1,795; and fox-fur stole, $3,500. Marc Jacobs, N.Y.C. 212-343-2490. Louis Vuitton crocodile-and-mink bag, price available upon request. 866-VUITTON. A Life in Full, page 248: Prada wool felt coat, $3,100; Shetland wool vest, $710; leather skirt, $3,395; silk-satin-and-leather shoes, price available upon request; and suede belt, $375. Select Prada stores. Calvin Klein Underwear bra, $40. Bloomingdale’s stores. Page 251: Lanvin wool flannel vest, $4,280, and dress, $2,290. Berg-dorf Goodman, N.Y.C. 212-753-7300. Lanvin wool sweater, $900, and belt, $780. Net-a-porter.com.

PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITSBEAUTY REPORTER Page 80, clockwise from top right: John Manno; Nicholas Prakas; Thomas Scheuer; Noah Fecks; Wilson Lee; David Cook; Kenneth Willardt.BEAUTY REPORTER Page 90, clockwise from top: David Cook; Stephen Lovekin/FilmMagic; Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images; FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; GAB Archive/Redferns/Getty Images; John Manno; Splash News/Corbis.FASHION BULLETIN Page 101, clockwise from top left: Phil Oh/streetpeeper.com; David Cook (still lifes); Steve Granitz/WireImage; Fairchild Archive (runway).STYLIST SECRETS: SHOPPING LIKE A PRO Page 123, clockwise from top left: Said Elatab/Splash News; Splash News; CL/Splash News; Marcus/Zodiac/Splash News; Sharpshooter/Splash News; Splash News; JML/Splash News. Page 124, clockwise from top right: Terry Richardson; The Coveteur/Trunk Archive; Marko MacPherson/vogue.com; Naj Jamal; Brandon Harman; courtesy of subject; David Cook (still lifes); Ben Gabbe/Getty Images.RAY OF LIGHT Page 152: Courtesy of Robert Anolik (Reducing Redness); courtesy of Nancy Berson (Whole-Face Resurfacing); Jodi Richfield/courtesy of Brian Bies-man (Brown Spots).STAR HAIR TIPS Page 166, clockwise from top: Imaxtree .com; Harry Pluviose/Retna Ltd.; Jason LaVeris/Film-Magic; Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images. Page 168, clockwise from top left: Jason Jean/Citizen Couture; Tommy Ton/Trunk Archive; Craig Arend/Altamiranyc; Phil Oh/Streetpeeper.com (3).

GET POLISHED Page 176, clockwise from top: David Cook; George Strock/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Im-ages; no credit; courtesy of Bonhams; Maya Kovacheva/Alamy; Werner Forman/UIG/Getty Images; Gianni Da-gli Orti/The Art Archive at Art Resource, NY. Page 177, clockwise from top: David Cook; DPA/Everett Collec-tion; Tony Duffy/Allsport/Getty Images; no credit; Marc Royce; H. Armstrong Roberts/Retrofile/Getty Images; Dove Express/Getty Images. Page 182, from left: Mi-ramax/Everett Collection; courtesy of CND; Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images; Kevin Mazur/WireImage (2); Jason Merritt/Getty Images.BEAUTY AND THE BEAT Page 209, clockwise from top left: Courtesy of michellephan.com; AFP/AFP/Getty Images; Reuters/Michael Kooren; courtesy of Rabia Z; courtesy of PureCure.A LIFE IN FULL Page 250, from left: Craig Sjodin/ABC/Getty Images; Mary Evans/Ronald Grant/Everett Collec-tion; Moviestore Collection/Rex/Rex USA. Page 253, top row, from left: Seth Poppel/Yearbook Library; Ron Galella Ltd./WireImage; 20th Century Fox/Everett/Rex USA; Retna Ltd. Second row, from left: Mitchell Haaseth/ABC/Getty Images; S. Granitz/WireImage; Gregg Deguire/WireImage; 20th Century Fox/Everett/Rex USA; J. Vespa/WireImage. Third row, from left: Sony Pics/Everett/Rex USA; Snap Stills/Rex/Rex USA; Lester Cohen/WireImage; Warner Bros. Pictures/Newscom. Bottom row, from left: Deano/Breedo/Splash News; Michael Germana/Zumapress/Newscom; Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage; Elevation Photos/Sipa USA/Newscom; wenn.com.

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254 7bbkh[��I[fj[cX[h�(&')

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MOLLY SIMS

“Get on my computer and

read the latest gossip.”

AMANDA

SEYFRIED

“Reading my book, The Solitude of

Prime Numbers, will put me to sleep.

I can only read ten pages a night.”

CAMILLA

BELLE

“I watch the Food Network.

It makes me hungry, but it

helps me get to a really

nice place.”

KERRY

WASHINGTON

“When I can’t sleep, I take liquid calcium supplements. And

if I really can’t sleep, I get to my TiVo and catch up on

shows.”

ANNE HATHAWAY

“I wake my husband up and make

him talk to me.”

What do you do when you can’t sleep?

Photographed by Patrick McMullan

By Jeffrey Slonim

They can’t buy it, their publicists can’t book it, and designers can’t loan it to them:

Celebrities yearn for a good night’s sleep as much as the rest of us. At the Tony

Awards, the Variety Power of Comedy fund-raiser, and the Time 100 and 2013 Cinema

for Peace galas, we asked them what they do when insomnia strikes. Jennifer Lopez

enters a meditative state: “I close my eyes. I think good thoughts. I pray.”

Emmy Rossum likes to “check Instagram and look at people’s pictures,” while

Morena Baccarin prefers to “read a book.” Along the same lines, Seth MacFarlane

said, “A Twilight book puts me right out.” Blythe Danner turns to infomercials,

admitting, “I buy all of those exercise videos on television, and then I just put them

in my closet.” And Jeremy Piven relies on his imagination: “I pretend I’m an

extra in a war movie and that I’m lying dead,” he said. Mark Consuelos, glancing

at wife Kelly Ripa, was a bit saucier; he replied, “Isn’t it obvious?”

Private Eye

JULIANNA MARGULIES

“I learn lines.”

HELENA CHRISTENSEN

“I imagine that I’m a gymnast at the Olympics doing some crazy

performance. And then usually I fall asleep, or fall.”

ZOOEY DESCHANEL

“I love to watch Top Chef.”

BEN AFFLECK

“Take an Ambien.”

MEGAN FOX (with husband

Brian Austin Green)

“We watch something on television or I

make him bring me cookie dough.”

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Allure USA 2013-09

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