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ISSN 1853-9610

N70 DEC - JAN 2015MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

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Issue Dec - Jan 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613E-mail: amanda@wine-republic.comEditor: Charlie OMalleyWine Editor: Amanda BarnesPublicity and Publisher:Mariana Gmez Rus:publicidad@wine-republic.com,mariana@wine-republic.com

Design: Gimena Federici - Jona Conti.jona@circlan.com. Circlan.com.Printer: Artes Grficas UNIONContributing Authors: Luke McMahon.Illustrations: Donough OMalley,www.pencilrobot.netOpinions expressed in this magazine are notnecessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.www.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

CONTENTS

News Republic

Champion of Fizz.....................................................

The Mods are on a Wine Tour............................Water crisis ..............................................................

Simply Flyfishing

Argentina,, a premier destination for

flyfishing......................................................................

Slaugtherhouse Blues

The end of a golden era.........................................

Grape Shot

Do golf and wine go together?...........................

When the fog lifts

Wines in Casablanca............................................

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Coastal Escapade

Valparaso................................................................

ConCn. / Via del Mar.......................................Reaca / La Serena / Playa Luna......................

Festive Season Wishlist

Tis the season to be jolly.....................................

Out & Abbout

Dinning out..............................................................

Winery Guide..........................................................

Bars.............................................................................

Maps & More

Useful information................................................

Maps of Maip and Chacras de Coria.............

Map of Mendoza City Center............................

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can do the same in Mendoza. For as little as 300 pesosa day you can zip between wineries and fly past thosestruggling wine cyclists. All you need is a credit cardand a driving license. Helmet provided for free. Check

out mendozarentamotos.com.ar. San Martin 373, GodoyCruz. Tel 261 424 7018.

Water CrisisIf anybody ever needed proof of climate change, justpoint them to the wine industry. Because winemakersand vineyard owners have to plan ahead for decades,they are often the first to see future trends and oneof them is that the planet is getting hotter. The factthan many French wineries are now buying up land in

the south of England is a sure sign that something isamiss. Dom Perignon must be turning in his grave atthe thought that soon the finest bubbly will come fromKent. In Mendoza, there are also some disturbing trends,mostly concerning water supply. The huge dams thatsupply the city and vineyards are drying up. PotrerillosLake and El Carrizal are now ringed by naked mud thathave not seen sunlight in decades. No doubt they willbe somewhat replenished as the summer melt beginsbut river supply is estimated to be 65% less than whatwas normal. Lack of snowfall is the main reason andemergency action is required to confront the problem.This requires more investment and better controls.

Amazingly, considering some of the wettest countriesin the World have water meters, Mendoza does not andthis leads to much wastage of what is the provincesmost precious c ommodity.

NEWS REPUBLIC

Champions of FizzIts official. Argentines are the biggest Coke heads on theplanet. In one year they drink 44 litres of Coca Cola per

person man, woman and child. The figure is actuallya staggering 131 litres, when you take into account allfizzy drinks consumed, making Argentina the gassiestnation on Earth. Chile comes a distant second with121 litres and Mexico third with 119. Such revelationswill come as no surprise to all of us who live here andsee the industrial quantities of black, sugared waterconsumed at birthday parties, asados and family gettogethers. Coca Cola has 33.6% market share, comparedto a global average of 26%. No doubt such enthusiasmfor the American soda is piqued by the cocktail craze forFernet. If any of you have ever tried this Italian digestif

straight, its bitter taste (like liquid ear wax) warrantslashings of Coca Cola and ice and it is the drink de riguerin any nightclub across the country. The curious thingis there are numerous brands of Fernet but the mixermust always be Coca Cola a fortuitous coincidence forthe global corporation.

The Mods are on a

Wine TourThere is nothing like a scooter to add some spice andexcitement to a holiday. This writer has fond memoriesof hurtling around the Roman Coliseum with 300other scooters whilst on an Italian outing. Now you

Argentina is a premier destination for fly fishing, with30-pound brown trout in Patagonia attracting themost avid fishermen from around the World. Peoplepay up to $700 US a day for the privilege of sayingthey fished in Argentine waters as it is often private,in 4X4 vehicles with specialist equipment. Mendozas

local experts, Trout & Wine Tours (a sister companyof this magazine), have decided to devise a programwith a more accessible price. Simply Flyfishing cuts

SIMPLYFLYFISHING

away with the frills such as hearty lunches and luxurytransport. For the price of 1500 pesos per person (basedon 2 people), you can spend the day in beautiful UcoValley, fishing its mountain streams which this timeof year are hopping with brook trout. They may notbe the 30-pound Beasts of the Southern Wild but they

are alive and kicking and great fun to try and catch.Contact Trout & Wine Tours, Espejo 266. Mendoza City.Tel (0261) 4255613. www.troutandwine.com

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The holy

cow issacred nomore andthe beefindustry

is bust.CharlieOMalleylamentsthe end of

a goldenera inArgentina

The Belgians have their chocolateand the French have their cheese. Yetwhen it comes to beef, Argentina is in

a class of its own. Famous the Worldover, Argentine steak is renownedfor its tenderness and taste andcommands premium prices on foreignmenus. The locals consume some 118pounds per annum, man, woman andchild. To put that into context, beefconsumption in the States peakedat 89 pounds back in 1975 and hasdeclined since. This country runs onmeat grills. Anybody who has livedhere is familiar with the experience

of walking down an urban street andbeing stopped in their tracks by themouth-watering waft of a hiddenasado (Argentine barbecue). Im sureeven the occasional vegetarian hasinstinctively froze and raised hisnose in the air, twitched his nostrilsand tried to divine now where is thatcarnivore chow down.Those cattle are incow heaven

The asado is a national institution, theonce chance the typical Argentinecity dweller can step out of his urbanbubble, arm himself with a spatulaand food tongs and imagine he is onthe pampas, riding the plains and

herding cattle. Those cattle are incow heaven. They roam over endlessprairies, feed on natural grass in the

perfect climate, with no chemicals,no antibiotics and no stress. Whenthe time comes they merrily marchtheir tender loins off to the nearestabattoir and submit to the humandinner plate. The organic craze neverhappened in Argentina. By defaultand lucky coincidence, the meat isalready organic and everybody eats it from the tar-faced road labourer tothe po-faced lawyer. No doubt, manya local has consoled himself in recent

times, that despite the countrys manyproblems, they still have the best beefin the World and Argentines are thegreatest beef eaters.

Unfortunately, the reality isotherwise. Beef exports are down,consumption has plummeted, priceshave quadrupled and the nationalherd has dwindled. There has been aseismic shift in how beef is producedin Argentina over the past 20 yearsand perhaps the most fundamental of

these changes is the fact that the cowhas been pushed from the pampasand into the dreaded feedlot where itis not fed grass but grain. Only 20% ofthe beef on sale now has been raisedthe traditional way and most of

SLAUGHTERHOUSEBLUES

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that gets steered towards high-endrestaurants and upscale butcherswith more discerning customers.

One word can explain this disturbingchange soya. High demand fromAsia and windfall profits (despite ahefty 35% government tax) has seenthis crop invade the rich prairies ofEastern Argentina. There is a wellworn joke in farming circles:

Most of the soya inArgentina is planted inBuenos Aires

by telephoneThey call the soya plantation thefarmerless farm as it is quick andeasy to grow and requires little effort.Many traditional cattle farmers havesuccumbed to temptation as outsidecompanies offer hard cash up front tomove in, plow up their pastures andplant soya. The cattle are wanted nomore and the herds are slaughteredor moved to factory farms. Such amomentous change is difficult to

reverse and despite the recent fall insoya prices it is hard to see the cowreturn to its traditional dominance inthe countryside. Once land has beenconverted to crop growing it takesseveral years of no earnings for the

farmer to change it back to livestockpasture. Soya is just too easy. Theycan literally phone it in.

Instead the locals aregoing for chicken, porkand, God forbid, salad

In tandem with this development hasbeen a transformation in Argentineeating habits. Spurred by higherbeef prices, a desire for variety anda healthier diet, Argentines are nolonger the greatest meat eaters onthe planet. That laurel now rests on

Uruguays shoulders. Instead thelocals are going for chicken, porkand, God forbid, salad. Whilst theasado will never disappearm it isvery much a bromance with guysconverging around the parilla oncea week. Women now prefer sushi,or pasta. Even the vegetarian haslost his or her leper status and all-vegetable delis are becoming moreand more frequent.

Apart from the grumbling of

dedicated cattlemen, this revolutionhas been a silent one with littleprotest from the greater population.This is all the more surprisingconsidering the important place beefoccupies at the heart of the countrys

foundation. Remember, it wasnt theSpanish that conquered Argentina.They were routed by the Indians. No,

it was the humble cow. When thehalf starved and spear tormentedconquistadores eventually gaveup and fled the River Plate in 1541,they left behind some abandonedheifers and some lucky bulls. Leftto their own devices on the hugeand fertile pampas and free of anynatural predators, this community ofbovines must have thought they haddied and went to cow heaven. Theycopulated and multiplied, copulatedand multiplied, and grew into amammoth herd of 50 million, makingArgentina a republic of cows.

Of course the Spanish eventuallyreturned and exploited thisdevelopment. Such a prodigiousamount of a valuable resourcegave the Europeans an economicfoothold and ability to stay. Themeat trade became the backboneof the Argentine economy and thecountry became an Agricultural

powerhouse.

Soya just doesnt have the sameromance, nor the same mouthwatering taste. Nor does it go so wellwith Malbec.

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Illustrationsby

DonoughOMalley

www.p

encilrobo

t.net

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GRAPE SHOTWinston Churchill famously described golf as anineffectual attempt to direct an uncontrollable sphereinto an inaccessible hole with instruments ill-adaptedto the purpose. But the man who also said his absolutesacred right was the drinking of alcohol before, after,and if need be during all meals and the intervalsbetween them would surely have agreed that if you aregoing to play golf, then a vineyard is the best possibleplace to do it.

Mendozas dry arid plains and mammoth rock mountainranges may be the last place in the World youd thinkyou would find a golf course, but believe it or not, thereare several excellent places to take a shot at the grapes.

Algodon Wine Estates

Below I have listed the most accessible to visitors but Ishall start with the one that is the furthest away 3hours south of Mendoza city, in the provinces secondcity, San Rafael. Algodon Wine Estates is a 150,000 litrecapacity winery located in 300 hectares of grapevines,fruit orchards and a wine lodge with a 9-hole golf courseweaving its way through the finca. The course is carefullydesigned and exquisitely manicured field of dreams (ornightmares, depending on your skill level) replete with

water hazards, lakes, trees and dog-legs.

www.algodonwineestates.com

Club Andino

Easily the most accessible golf course in Mendoza, ClubAndino is a 30-minute walk from downtown, locatedin the magnificent Parque San Martin. It has 9 holeswith narrow fairways and fast greens bordered by talltrees with the Pre-Cordillera mountain range in thebackground. Built in 1926, it is one of the oldest coursesin Argentina and its 30s style clubhouse and restaurantadd to its pastoral splendour. Green fees are $50 US(approximately 400 pesos) and clubs and trolleys areavailable to rent. Reservations are not required on weekdays and the club includes facilities such as a pool, gymand basketball courts. Perfect for those with a sparemorning to pass.

Tel. 0261 4285410. www.golfclubandino.com.ar

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Atamisque Golf

Uco. Part of Atamisque Winery and Resort, this 9-holecourse is set in a splendid bucolic oasis with 80-yearold trees planted by the famous French landscapeartist Carlos Thays. With Par 3 fairways, this little golfgem is ideal for approach shots and putting. Next to the

secluded greens is a tiny clubhouse where the friendlyand professional management can provide veryspecial, intimate lunch events (reservations required).The gorgeous stone winery can also be visited andthere is a charming restaurant that specializes in troutprocured from the onsite trout farm. Perfect for groupsof players and non-players who want to relax and playin idyllic surroundings.

Tel. 0261 155 275336. www.atamisque.com

Club de CampoThe grand dame of Mendozas golf course, this expansive18-hole course is a 15-minute drive from the city center,located in the eastern district of Guaymallen. Openedin 1974, it has hosted International events and playerssuch as Eduardo Romero and Angel Cabrera have teedoff from its lush grounds. Its flat fairways and difficultgreens are bordered by tall pine trees and a snow-toppedAndean background. Its green fees are somewhat steep($100 US or approximately 800 pesos) but it does have

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Mendozas only driving range which is open to the public

and charges a very reasonable 30 pesos for a basket of50 balls. Other facilities include a large clubhouse andterraced restaurant, tennis courts, gym and sauna. Clubde Camp is for those who take their golf seriously. Clubsand trolleys are available to rent onsite.

Tel. 0261 431 5966. www.clubdecampomendoza.com

Tupungato Winelands

It was only a matter of time before Uco Valley got itsvery own 18-hole golf course. What makes Tupungato

Winelands stand out is the irrigation is limited to thefairways and greens and the course designers haveintegrated native plants and grass within the overalldesign. Add to this, 400 hectares of vineyard, ariddesert and dramatic rolling Andean landscape and youhave what must be one of the most unique golf projectsin South America. Located 90 minutes drive fromMendoza City center in the district of Gualtallary (closeto Tupungato), the complex also boasts a residential area,hotel, polo grounds and restaurant. This is country livingat its most deluxe and a must do for those lifestylers whowant golf, wine and gorgeous scenery.

www.tupungatowinelands.com

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When Summer reaches its peak in

Mendoza you either need to finda friend with a pool, or take a longweekend over the border to Chilesbeaches. If you are heading acrossthe Andes on the way to the beach (ajourney which on a good day mighttake just 6 hours, on a bad day mighttake closer to 10) then there is onewine region you really cant miss:Casablanca.

While the name might conjure upimages of Humphrey Bogart in far-

flung Morocco, Chiles Casablancacouldnt be more different. Bathedin a cool white fog every morning,Casablanca Valley 100kms west ofSantiago is quite unique to drive into.Coming from the smog of Chiles

WHENTHEFOGLIFTS

Of all thewine jointsin all theWorld,Amanda

Barneschecks outCasablancaChile.

capital city, green hills emerge andsunlight is ubiquitous until you hitCasablanca. The valley is literallyswamped in white fog which rollsin from the Pacific sea 30kms on theWest and doesnt usually clear upuntil the afternoon.

This unusual microclimate along withdangerous frosts, a water shortageand little vegetation at first scared offmany Chilean winery owners whousually plant in the sunny flat plains.Visionaries like Pablo Morande tookthe risk to plant there in the early1980s believing that the cool morningswould add greater complexity to wineswhile maintaining good sugar andacidity. When they started producinggood wines the rest of the industrytook notice and now Casablanca hasover 2,500 hectares of vines. It is bestknown for its cool climate SauvignonBlanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

A trip through wine country inCasablanca is full of variety from bigindustrial wineries to small, boutiqueoperations. As you drive throughthe valley there are a handful of bigwineries on the main Route 68 (all verywell signed)and nearby areas. Heres apick of some of the best to visit:

For families: El Cuadro

If you want to do some wine tastingwith your rug rats in tow, visit ElCuadro. Tucked into the countrysidenear the main road, there isnt actuallya winery on the property yet butthis vineyard draws in an impressivenumber of visitors and rightly so withtheir well honed tour and professionalstaff. There is plenty to amuse

you and the kids for a few hoursincluding: a tour through the cavawith its enormous barrels and homageto Bacchus;the incredible winemuseum which is decked out withold machinery and life size modelsdemonstrating how wine was madein years gone past; a horse drawncarriage ride through the vineyardsand a walk through a speciallyplanted vine garden where you cansee, learn about and taste (in growingseason) 26 different varietals; wine

tasting accompanied by chocolate,cheese and fruits; and a rodeo showlearning about the traditions of Chileand watching gauchos run with cattleon horses. Thats not even mentioningthe peacocks, royal carriage from

Versailles, chapel, restaurant andfantastic Sauvignon Blanc Sour. ElCuadro offers one of the best familydays out.www.elcuadro.cl, Camino La Vinilla

km 14

For wine lovers: Casas del

Bosque

This state-of-the-art winery set onsloping hillsides is one of the leadingproducers in the region with manyinternational accolades behind it. Atour of the winery reveals its modernapproach to precision winemakingand there is an attractive restaurantattached where you can enjoy thegreat wines with organic and locallysourced, contemporary Chileancuisine. Their part barrel fermented

Pequenas Producciones SauvignonBlanc is outstanding and all theirSyrah rocks.www.casasdelbosque.cl, Hijuela 2,

Ex-Fundo Santa Rosa

For a picturesque winerylunch: Matetic

Nowhere else quite beats Mateticsstunning location: a rolling estateand biodynamic farmland with vines

as far as the eye can see, a gorgeouswinery, and a restaurant on the middleof a lake. The best way to taste theirimpeccable wines is by indulging in alip-smacking lunch in their beautifulrestaurant. With views out into the

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colourful and aromatic garden, thesetting is picture perfect as is the

food: try the sweet crab gratin withsalty Sauvignon Blanc, or the richPatagonian lamb with spicy Syrah.Combine lunch with a visit to thewinery which is built into the side ofa hill in order to naturally control thetemperature and has an atmospheric,circular barrel room.www.mateticvineyards.cl, Fundo El

Rosario, Lagnunillas

For green lovers: Emiliana

Another biodynamic producer,Emilianas Casablanca vineyard(the winery is in Colchagua) offers apastoral setting with environmentallyfriendly and delicious wines.Tours begin with a walk around thevines learning how winemakingreally begins in the vineyard andguides teach you about the principlesof biodynamics as different farm

animals wander around the property.Interestingly you can visit a smallunderground chamber where theymake special preparations for the vinessuch as chamomile, flower extractsand quartz. Social Responsibility isalso a big part of Emiliana and a visitincludes seeing the local workers ownvegetable patch where they can growtheir own food while working on the

vines. The best way to finish withthe tasting is to try out their organiccheese and chocolate pairing option.www.emiliana.cl, Ruta 68, km 60.7

For convenience: Indomita

This large white Hollywood style castleon top of a hill overlooking the valleyis just meters away from the main roadand is an easy place to stop by en-route.A visit to the winery shows you the

large production scale and tours starton a platform overlooking the vineyardbelow learning about the vines andunique microclimate of Casablanca,carry on through the winery andfinish with a tasting on the blindinglywhite patio. An attached restaurantspecializing in Chilean delicacies isanother attraction for tourists.www.indomita.cl, Ruta 68, km 64

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Chile is the first resortforMendocinos who want sea

and beach in January. AmandaBarnes coasts its 6,500 km ofshoreline to give you the best.

COASTALESCAPADE

ValparasoThe Ying to Vias yang, Valpo Chiles primary sea port- offers a colorful, historical, charismatic alternative tothe sometimes tiresome pace of the beach resort towns.The coastline that inspired Neruda and the rolling hillscrowded with brightly painted houses make the settingidyllic albeit a little dilapidated. Out of over 36 beaches,only 5 are ok for a swim: Las Torpederas, CaletaAbarca, LasSalinas, Los Lilenes and Playa Amarilla. However, thesebeaches have steep drop-offs, something to keep in mind ifyoure venturing far from shore.

Beach bag essential:Umbrella or a brimmed hat, as shadewill be hard to come by.

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Via del Mar

Arguably Chiles premier beach resort, Via is a hotspot fortourists with cash. Though the icy water makes for a teeth-chattering swim, it also allows for a coastline brimmingwith delicious seafood restaurants and a good amount ofshoreline shopping.

Beach bag essential:Enough pesos to shop the boardwalkand come away with a Chilean treasure.

Concn

The coastal resort of Concn, just north of Via del Maris a leafy green escape from the urban vibe of Via. The10 Km route connecting the two cities not only makes foran interesting bike ride, it also is home to some of the best

stetches of beach in all of Chile. The three main beaches inConcnare Playa Negra, Amarilla and Boca. Playa Amarilla,a favorite among families with small children, offers calmwaters, fine sand and (mostly) free parking.

Beach bag essential:Food and libations, as there is not anample selection of restaurants and stores nearby.

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Playa Luna

Regardless of how earnest their argument, no onecomes to Playa Luna for the birdwatching. At least,it seems unlikely. This bird sanctuary is also the onlyofficial nudist beach in Chile. Tucked into a secludednook of coastline just north of Valparaso, Playa Lunais reachable by hiking the shoreline from the cove ofHorcn. Nude, partially nude, or bundled up in a parka,the atmosphere is relaxed and the waves are welcoming.

Beach bag essential:Ditch the beach bag and swimming

costume, just bring yourself and a strong SPF!

Reaca

This 1.3 Km stretch of beach resort coast line can scarcelyaccommodate the evenly-tanned prepsters that perch inits sands. If ever a beach could be hip, Renaca would be it.Though the waves are a bit too much to handle for actualswimming, beachgoers take quick dips in the chilly water

before continuing their rotisserie sun-tanning regimen.

Beach bag essential:Ashnazy pair of rip-off Raybans. Donthave any? Lucky for you, every stall along the boardwalkwill be happy to sell you a set for gringo prices, unlessyour Spanish accent is up to par.

La Serena

As the popularity of Via and Valpo beaches grow, somevisitors are breaking away from the herd and headingnorth to La Serena (conveniently located the other sideof a quieter border control at San Juan). Waves and ripcurrents make conditions dangerous for taking a plunge,however beach bars and loungers suit land lovers. Closerto Coquimbo and south of CuatroEsquinas, you can swimthe warmer waters and they are a hotspot for water sports.Beach bag essential:Surf gear.

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FESTIVE SEASON WISHLIST

Tis the season to be jolly. and a few good bottles

always helps. Heres Amanda Barnes pick of someclassic Argentine bottles to make the whole familymerry this Christmas and New Year.By Amanda Barnes

For Canaps and Parties: Mil Vientos Torrontes,

Merced Del Estero

For good value and a light and refreshing summer wine(the festive season is much hotter down here than it isin the Northern Hemisphere) you cant go wrong withTorrontes. This intense and floral white from San Juancomes with a great volume in mouth and a long finishfor its very attractive less-than-$100 peso price point.

For Christmas Dinner: Gran Corte, Recuerdo Wines

Christmas is all about making good memories with yourfamily, and this blend from the Uco Valley comes ready

to create a special moment at a big family dinner. A blendof Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, thiswine has plenty of dark fruit on the nose as well as blackpepper, coffee and a dash of sweeter vanilla from 22months in oak. Cork this open and the only argumentaround the table will be who gets the last drop.

To Ring in the New Year: DV Catena Nature,

Catena Zapata

If you really want to get your New Year off to a fabulousstart, this is the bottle to go with. One of the bestsparkling wines in the country, DV Catena Nature hasspent a whopping 30 months on the lees and is a complexand attractive sparkling wine made in the traditionalchampenoise method with Chardonnay and Pinot Noirfrom Tupungato.

For the morning after: Ramanegra Sidra

This apple cider is more than just your usual cider, it ismade with its second fermentation in the traditionalchampenoise method to make it sparkle and has a lovely

crunchy acidity and fresh fruit nose. This is the perfectmorning after tipple with just that gentle bit of hair ofthe dog at only 6% alcohol. Yummy!

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DINING OUT

MENDOZA CITY

ITUZAINGOFor an intimate, unusual and memorable

evening - Ituzaingo is one of the citys bestkept secrets. A closed door restaurantlocated in a historic house in the bohemianquarter, Ituzaingo has been receiving ravereviews from locals, expats and travellersalike who relish in the warm atmosphere,good company, unique art, and goodfood all accompanied by an eclectic musicmix. The maestro in question is GonzaloCuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45people in his attractive loft conversionhouse or leafy summer garden, and hischef Francisco can delight guests with aneight course menu of Argentine flavours

catered to an international palate, orsimply relax with a glass of wine. Thisis a real place to meet the wines, food,art, music and hospitality of Argentina. 8course menu of argentine cuisine with 3glasses of wine and a welcome drink, oryou can order sharing plates and wine bythe glass. For those who like to learn moreabout regional culture and gastronomyItuzaingo has the option of an ArgentineanCooking Class which is a lot of fun andeducational. Prices between 400 and500 pesos per person (wines included).Open Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat from 8.30pm.

Reservations essential. ItuzaingoResto, tel (261) 15 666 5778, cocina@ituzaingoresto.com.ar

GRILL QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q

serves up traditional regional cuisine ata five star level. Sit back in the chic parillastyle restaurant amongst the cowhidesand local artwork, pick from one of themany Mendocinean wines, make yourorder and watch the chefs at work in theopen kitchen. They are famous for theirgrilled meats and gigantic empanadas,and serve hearty Argentine classicssuch as locro - a stew which hailsback to the early independence days.Save room for the stunning desserts.The Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,offers a more gourmet evening menu

and the most exuberant lunch menuin town. With a gorgeous buffet spreadof starters like squid and basil stew,crispy calamari with cool gazpachoand mezze style tapas, youll need tobring your stretchy waistbands to fit inthe hearty and flavourful main optionsand the sumptuous dessert buffet ontop. Put aside an hour or two for thistempting lunch or make your way herein the evening to try the Mediterraneaninspired dishes including delicious pasta,fresh fish and some great cuts of meat.Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal GrillQ $240 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu$270 with starter buffet, main course,

dessert buffet and glass of wine.

PATRONAThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has acasual, rustic charm about it. A colourfulhub of activity on a quiet street, Patronaattracts a crowd full of locals every nightof the week who come for the honest,traditional Argentine food and friendlyand warm atmosphere. Classic dishes

like the hearty empanadas and sizzlingasado are worthy and popular fare butthe real star here is Patronas warm,open sandwiches We recommend theartichoke hearts and goats cheese;roasted vegetables with white wine andhoney; or the more traditional pick ofrich glands cooked in lemon. A decentwine list and some satisfying dessertscomplete the gastronomy experiencebut the key to Patrona is the cosy waythat they really make you feel at home.Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm

- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. mealcost: $140/(including starter, maindish, dessert+a glass of wine)

EL MERCADITOWith an attractive fairy lit patio and terrace

outside, this is the perfect spot for somelunch time sunshine or al fresco dining.Run by three friends, El Mercadito has acool vibe and relaxed music making it afavorite. Opened recently by three friends,El Mercadito is offering something a littlebit different to Mendoza. With a cool vibe,relaxed music and attractive waiting staff,this is quickly becoming a favorite hotspot for a coffee, bite to eat or eveningcocktails. Opening in the morning forhealthy breakfasts and antioxidant juices,El Mercadito stays open throughout thesiesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big

salads and some Argentine classic meals.Chow down to big healthy salads like theLangoustine with huge juicy prawns,fresh avocado and green leaves or tuckinto one of their big toasted sandwicheslike smoked salmon and cream cheese,or jamon crudo and arugula served withchunky chips and homemade BBQ sauce.As the sun goes down make sure to try outone of their yummy strawberry mojitos! ElMercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521,(261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150.Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te:4962267.

LA MARCHIGIANAAs the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza,La Marchigiana has plenty of history andtraditional recipes to whet any nonna`sappetite. Maria Teresa Corradini deBarbera`s family restaurant started offwith only six hearty Italian dishes but hasgrown into a popular local fixture whichis always busy despite its curious lack ofambience. The pasta is the best thing here,maintaining original recipes from over 60

years ago; we recommend the huge stuffedravioli. Check out the Brad Pitt photo forcelebrity credentials. La Marchigiana,Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261)4230751. Avg. meal price: $130

CEIBOOffering one of the most complete cookingand cultural experiences in Mendoza, thisintimate restaurant serves classic Argentinecountryside cuisine with a contemporarytwist as well as its daily cooking classes.Chef Mauricio and Sommelier Eugeniawelcome you into their converted familyhome and offer a 3 to 4 hour cooking classwhereby you learn the culture of cocina

Grill Q

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de campo as well as trying your hand attraditional cooking techniques like cookingin a mud oven, al disco and learning the

art of the perfect asado as well as makingempanadas, choripan, homemade breadand chimichurri sauce. Five courses oftraditional cuisine are paired with boutiqueArgentine wines and you finish off makingfresh herb cocktails from the patio gardenand can try rolling Argentine tobacco. A fun,cultural and culinary experience to enrichyour understanding of Argentina and itscuisine. The restaurant is also open everyevening (except Sundays) and serve classicArgentine dishes like a variety of empanadasand roasted meats along with signaturedishes from Mauricio and boast a fantasticwine list and warm environment. Ceibo, 25de Mayo 871 (in front of Plaza Italia), (261)420 2992. Avg. meal price $ 170, cookingclass from $100US

ANNA BISTROAnna Bistro has been an importantrestaurant on Mendozas food scenesince it opened 8 years ago, howeverthat doesnt stop it from renovatingitself each year. This year Jerome andhis team have started smoking their

own salmon and cheese to add a bitmore flavour to some dishes and youcan try the rich salmon on deliciousbrioche and go the whole hog with a potof delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.Along with a handful of salmon dishesthere are a host of different foods onthe menu including classic steak, richlamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighteroptions including big salads, sharingplatters and vegetarian dishes. Whilelunch and dinner is still its main game,the beautiful gardens and restaurant areopen for breakfast from 8am offering

unending treats from their own Frenchpatisserie and the late afternoon is

perfect for sipping your way throughthe extensive cocktail list or takeyour pick from the arm long wine list.

Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 4251818. Everyday 8am till late. Avg.meal cost: $190 pesos.

OUTSIDE CITYCENTER

LOS NEGRITOSRight in the middle of Las Vegas (inPotrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza) thisrestaurant stems from a story of afamily who came to live in here one ofthe first weekend houses constructedin the area. They named their homelos negritos a nickname of their twoyoung children. Many years later, oneof the negritos (Enrique) decided toleave the bustle of the city, movedto the mountains and opened arestaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas.The restaurant serves lunch anddinner every weekend and on publicholidays and the cuisine is flavourfuland typically Argentine with stews(such as Tomaticn and mondongo)

, milanesas, humita and homemadepasta - many of the recipes used are old

family recipes. The restaurant has beenrecognized as part of the gastronomicalroute and is noted for its quality of

cooking, architecture and landscape.Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.(261)155697431. Avg: $120

TERRUO-CLUB TAPIZTucked away among the sprawlingMaipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resortand its lovely restaurant Terruo. Thishandsome eatery boasts an elegantinterior, excellent service and a winelist that is sure to please even themost finicky of wine snobs. Theirchef compiles a tantalising menu thatincludes top notch lomo steaks, arotating range of salads and a savoryginger/honey chicken dish that issecond to none. If you like what yousee and taste, book a room in one oftheir seven Renaissance-style villas.Dont forget to call ahead for dinnerreservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517Maip. AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131.tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm- 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm-

11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg.meal cost: $370 pesos.

FUENTE Y FONDA

Taking over a beautiful space on the Plaza Italia is Pablo del Rios new restaurant,Fuente y Fonda. You might know the chef for his contemporary Argentine cuisineat Siete Cocinas, but the ethos behind his new venture is to forget the fancycrockery and edible flowers and serve it how his grandma would. Expectunpretentious dining and huge portions of lovingly-prepared Argentine homecomfort foods: milanesas topped with cheese and ham, huge dishes of stuffedpasta, and plates of meat for everyone to attack in the middle of the table. Thefood is honest and tastes great, the prices are excellent, the wine list is fab and

this place is sure to be one of your new mid-week favourites.

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LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of ChandonArgentina is a beautifully restoredbodega with well-appointed tastingroom. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames andCochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn deCuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Estrella de los AndesOn a leafy road in the middle ofLujan, this winery has a cool, retrodiner with well presented andtasty Argentine dishes that wontbreak your bank. Open all day anda relaxed atmosphere. Olavarria

225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190. www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royalfamily of Argentine wine and theirseat of operations is a handsomeand elegant 110-year old winery.Classical architecture, ancientatmospheric cellars and rich winessuch as the Finca Las Nobles rangemake for a fascinating visit. (0261)498 1974. San Martin 2044, MayorDrummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www.

luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery createsthe label Punto Final. Small, modernoperation with tour that includesa hands-on lesson in blending.Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses anew venture by the prestigious Chileanwinery Montes. Big and powerfulwines, destined for fame. (0261) 5243160. Roque Saenz Pea 5516, LasCompuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. www.kaikenwines.com

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like aMayan temple overlooking vineyardsand the Andes Mountains. Rich,complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunchesmake Melipal one of the most exclusivewineries to visit. (0261) 4790202 .R.N.7,1056km, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

THE WINERY GUIDEBonfantiA lovely winery in a pastoral setting.Up close and personal tours withthe owners themselves and atasting room set amidst the vines.(0261) 488 0595. Terrada 2024,Lujan de Cuyo.

Via CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbswas one of the first to recognisethe possibilities of Malbec and hisBramare label is possibly one of thebest examples of this varietal. (0261)479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.www.vinacobos.com

Belasco de Baquedano

Gleaming modern facility withfascinating aroma room andrestaurant with Andean view. (0261)524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan deCuyo. www.belascomalbec.com

PiattelliA lovely family owned winery donein a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch ona deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.piattellivineyards.com

CruzatA boutique traditional sparkling wineproducer with gorgeous bubbles thatcan be enjoyed from their terraceoverlooking vines. (261) 5242290,Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern andtraditional. Tasting includesdistinctive Torrontes or singlevineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujande Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

MendelAn old style winery ran by one ofArgentinas most famous winemakerdynasties the De La Motta family.(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863,Mayor Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo.www.mendel.com.ar

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery withclear views of the mountains and a

large terrace used for sunset wineevents after 6.30pm on Thursdays.Owned by the Spanish experts insparkling wine, Codorniu, they makefab sparkling wine under label Maria.(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujande Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and richcomplex wines make this a winerywith finesse and style. Fav. Wine:Cabernet Franc.(0261) 155 076426.Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.www.pulentaestate.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruo and aninstructive wine tour including barreland bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202.Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo,Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

NortonOld-style cellars contrast with a high-

tech production line. Tank and barreltastings,and jug fillings on Thursdaysare popular with the locals. (0261)490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovelyold bodega with lots of character.Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 4960794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmosphericold-style winery with a modernist,light-filled tasting room with excellentview of mountains and vines.(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. CallejnMaldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

Navarro CorreasThe closest winery to Mendoza city,easily accessible Navarro Correas isa modern winery with great sparklingwines and fun tasting options. (0261)4597916. San Francisco del Monte1555, Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery onthe main road to Chile just beforethe mountains and has a nicefamily feel to it. Fav. Wine: Rosado.(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

Nieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old wineryin Chacras, Senetiner was founded

in 1888 and makes a great rangeof wines and sparkling wines andoffers horseback riding in thevineyards and asado style lunches.(261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N,Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

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Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Lujn de Cuyo

Maip

Mendoza City

San Martn

Valle de Uco

Chandon

The original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been makinggreat sparkling wines in Mendozasince the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentinas most famous femalewinemaker Susana Balbo is creatingsome rich and complex wines inthe heart of Agrelo. Fav. Wine: BenMarco. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba7801 Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

LagardeOwner of the oldest white wine inSouth America. Try the hand-craftedsparkling wine made from 100 yearold vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.Lujn de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunch

make for an unforgettable culinaryexperience. (261) 5537164 .R.N.7, Km1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility withspectacular views of the mountainsfrom the cozy tasting room. (0261)524 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003,Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation withnice history. A five minute walk fromChacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. MonteLibano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Carmelo PattiMendozas most famous garagista.Carmelo Patti himself is often thereto show you around (in Spanish). Fav.Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from thebarrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin

2614, Lujn de Cuyo.DoliumA completely underground winerywith innovative design and top notchMalbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

NATURAL SELECTION

Searching for a unique, exquisitewine? Look no further that the one-off vintages of Cepas Elegidas. TerryTraynor talks to Mendozas mostexciting and maverick winemaker.

Almost 7 years ago Brennan Firthleft his home country and Californiabehind with a one-way plane ticket toArgentina. He had worked in Sonomaand Santa upon his arrival he workedat Via Cobos. In 2009 he started his

own brand, Cepas Elegidas. Or TheSelected Vines.

His project is based on sourcingvineyards with naturally low yields,sustainable fruit, and making uniqueblends that remain in oak barrelsfrom 11 months to 45 months. Hisapproach is very hands on but hefocuses on minimal interventionwinemaking. An important part of hisjob is scouting grape plantations andselecting particular vines he likes,

the sections of which he ties coloredribbons to mark the plants he wants towork with. For some wines he makesthis may mean selecting 500 plants tolater yield 300 bottles.

One of Mendozas real nomadwineries, Cepas Elegidas has a verylimited production of only 8,000bottles a year. Annually he makes fiveto ten different wines, meaning eachlabel is small production, limited andexclusive. In other words special.

Ive never made the same wine twiceand dont plan to. says Brennan.

Today Cepas Elegidas has over 20wines in bottle from only 3 vintagesand many of the wines have their ownbrand identity. Aside from each winebeing unique and a one-off, no twolabels are ever the same either.

Some local press have quotedBrennan as being loco for such

unorthodox methods to build hislabel and business. Not to mentionthe wines themselves, which aremade up of blends most peoplewouldnt dare to risk. One such labelis Black Noir a rich concentratedblend of Tempranillo and Bonarda.All of his wines are made usingindigenous yeasts and nativemalolactic bacteria that take place inthe barrel (for the reds).

The first release of his wines was in

2012 and now almost 3 years later heis exporting to the US and Switzerland.Some of Mendozas top restaurantsand wine shops are selling his winesand supporting his loco approachto winemaking. Those restaurantsinclude Azafrn, Siete Cocinas,Francis Mallmann 1884, Le Rot, Sol yVino and Cepas Winery.

To visit Cepas Elegidas call Brennan at

(261) 154671015 or by email Bfirth@

cepaselegidas.com.ar

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THE WINERY GUIDEAchaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendozariverbed. Big concentrated wines.(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601,Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wallis a subterranean cross section ofthe actual vineyard clay, roots androcks. Fab restaurant. Fav Wine:Petit Verdot. (0261) 498 9400. RoqueSaenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery in

a beautiful setting. Try the jasminetinted ros amidst the pastoralsplendour of the owners expansivegarden.Anchorena y Terrada. (261) 424 6301.www.familiacassone.com.ar

MAIPU

TrapicheArgentinas biggest winery is a mixof old and new, traditional andindustrial, and has the old train

tracks leading up to it. (0261) 5207666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip.www.trapiche.com.ar

FlichmanSteeped in history and tradition.Charming, pink-hued, colonial-stylebodega, set in the leafy vineyards ofsouthern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039.Munives 800, Barrancas, Maip.www.flichman.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftopterrace overlooks the vineyard.(0261) 481 3501. Perito Moreno 572,Maip. www.tempusalba.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation.Attractive restaurant amidst thevines, famous for its asado-stylelunches and generous wine pourings.(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with twomuseums on the wine. Restaurantoffers gourmet cuisine with apanoramic view. (0261) 497 6554.Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum with invaluableantiques like cowhide wine pressesand buckets. Giant oak tanks stand inlarge, cavernous halls.(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic andbiodynamic principles where youcan see the entire process from thebeautiful green vineyards to theminimal intervention winery.(261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu,www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-ownedwinery offering personal tours andwell-honed wines. Surrounded byvineyards and olive trees.(0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip www.carinaevinos.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real vinos de autor, US bornBrennan Firth makes his limitedproduction wines in a small winery inMaipu. Exclusive and ultra high end

wines, a visit and tasting is with thewinemaker himself.To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennanon (0261) 467 1015.

Familia Di TommassoOfficially the second oldest winery inMendoza and still run by Argentinehands. Their charming and rusticrestaurant looks onto the vineyard,just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.familiaditommaso.com

AMP CavaPremium wines made from differentterroirs but all by renownedwinemaker Karim Mussi Saffie.Technical tastings and a closeproximity to the city make it arecommended visit.Gmez Adriano 3602. Coquimbito.Maip - (261) 4813201/4668048

VALLE DE UCO

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting roomlooks upon dramatic views ofvineyards against mountains.(02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www.andeluna.com

Finca La CeliaOne of the valleys oldest wineries.They conduct excellent tours andtastings. (02622) 451 010. Av. deCircunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos,San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

La AzulSimple, small production winerywith not so simple Malbecs and asmall traditional restaurant. (02622)423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga,Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine,this ultra-concept winery includesa modern art gallery, lodge, and

chapel set high in the Andean valley.(02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan.www.killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7In the heart of gorgeous VistaFlores, you can visit premium Frenchowned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland,Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andesin one visit for tastings, horseriding,art and lunch. (0261) 156 687680.www.clos7.com.ar

O. FournierMost architecturally innovativewinery with rich, concentrated wines.Excellent lunches in the modernistvisitor center. (02622) 451 088. LosIndios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos.www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, partof the exciting Vines of Mendozaproject. This is a modern winery ina stunning setting. 0261-156317105/0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some greatwhite wines, a unique stony roof andthey breed their own trout which isserved in the charming restaurant.(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km30), San Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

SAN MARTIN

Familia AntoniettiA family winery in San Martin whereyou can have a tour with the owners,try some of their sparkling wines andstay for a homecooked lunch. (0261)4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/nesq. Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martn.

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INSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has some great bars but if youre looking tobrowse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlifestrip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and

is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars,restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to SanMartin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get yourshut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even getstarted until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all locatedout of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

THE VINES OF MENDOZAAs the first and only true tasting room in South America, TheVines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premiumboutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine noteswith one of their tasting flights or choose a glass from theimpressive list of limited production wines. Chatting with

their learned bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours makesfor a truly enjoyable afternoon. Belgrano 1194, Tel. 261 438-1031. Mon-Sat, 3pm-10pm www.vinesofmendoza.com

BELIEVE IRISH PUBOne of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter andhigh stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat anda smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in itsnotable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menuis a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try theWarsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screenshang in every corner airing hit music-video montages orfootball games. Monday night is International night and fortheir packed events DJs rock the house. Colon and Espaa241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

EL MERCADITOAristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and thisresto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El Mercaditois run by three friends and it lets the good times roll withhealthy meals including big salads, which are a rarity here antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh cocktails and atop music mix. Spend an evening here and youll hear a fewbeats from across the pond and leave with a light stomachand a few stars brightening up your vision.El Mercadito,Aristides 521.

BARSANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its ownmicro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer inthis respect with bars located across the country since before

it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displaystempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale andIrish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night andserves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153.

VELVETThis hip new club and bar is located 15mins away fromMendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails andgreat music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs clubroom, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a Fridayand Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961, Chacrasde Coria (261) 467 433.

BLACK SHEEPJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food likenachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken wings.While especially popular during sports matches, The BlackSheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday from 12till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like! Maipu 131,Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

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USEFUL INFORMATIONAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINEOrdinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at leastU$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most winestores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266.CRIMEBe alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPUThe mosteconomical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount

as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini,Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBSIn most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buyseveral drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper.Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am.MENDOZA EXPATS CLUBAn organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSEREnglish speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047.CHANGING DOLLARS- Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place togo if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check thecurrent rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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