Who's Hungry? Magazine | Fall 2012 | No 4

f a l l 2 0 1 2 N O 0 04

FEATURES

28 Weather Permitting:Winter Squash

2 C O N T E N T S

18 Portrait of a ChefTony Priolo

34 High Spirits:Man About Town

8 5 Favorite Comfort Food Dishes

20 In Season: Beyond the Usual Bird

4 Contributors

5 Letter from Steve

6 Stylist’s Corner

8 5 Favorite Comfort Food Dishes

14 The Art of the Steam Shot

16 Out of the Bag

18 Portrait of a Chef

20 In Season: Beyond the Usual Bird

28 Weather Permitting: Winter Squash

34 High Spirits: Man About Town

36 Tally Ho!

54 How We Did It

56 Recipe Index

CONTENTS

CONTACTS

3C O N T E N T S

media inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]

Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com

[email protected] | 312.432.1702

stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607

www.stephenhamilton.com

54 How We Did It

36 Tally Ho!

cover image: I originally photographed Floriole Cafe

& Bakery’s luscious fig tart as part of The Restaurant Project,

a series in which I recreate and photograph restaurant dishes

in my studio.Topped with ripe purple figs and a drizzle of

golden honey, it’s the perfect fall treat—and the perfect image

to welcome you our fall issue of Who’s Hungry? Magazine.

4 C O N T R I B U T O R S

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost

seven years and helps to lead the editorial

concept and execution of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine. An award-winning former creative

director for major ad agencies such as Leo

Burnett and J. Walter Thompson, Judith sweats

the details, pens Weather Permitting and

literally hand writes How We Did It.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine with meticulous attention to detail and

typography, and helped turn static images into an

interactive experience. His award-winning design

work has been featured in the pages of Print,

Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

Deirdre O’Shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,

you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15

years of experience in managing photography

studios, Deirdre has a hand in nearly every

aspect of Stephen’s business. She’s been

instrumental in organizing the magazine’s

shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always

keeping production on schedule.

a special thanks to: Tony Priolo, Melissa Clark, Laura Calder and HarperCollins Canada,

Gramercy Tavern, Molly White, the Piedmont and Orange County Hunt Clubs, CeCe Campise,

Ruth Siegel, Josephine Orba, Andrew Burkle, Raymond Barrera, Sara Cruz, Paula Walters, Tom Hamilton

Walter Moeller, Brittany Culver, Lissa Levy, Juliette Pope and Paul Michel

kathryn o’malley | Associate Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her

passion for writing about it; as the newest

addition to the Who’s Hungry?™ team, she

indulges in a bit of both. Her popular food blog,

dramaticpancake.com, garners more than 40,000

unique viewers per month and highlights the

people and stories behind great recipes.

molly sorge | Writer

A lifelong lover of all things equine, Molly Sorge

found a way to unite her greatest passions when

she began writing and photographing for the

weekly equestrian magazine The Chronicle of the

Horse fourteen years ago. When she isn’t traveling

or scooping up a story, Molly can be found

galloping across the countryside on her own

steed, the inimitable Elf. For Who’s Hungry?™

Magazine, she recounts the thrill of a Virginia

foxhunt and the delectable breakfast that follows.

c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 0 4

Dannielle Kyrillos | Writer and Television Commentator

A series judge on Bravo’s “Top Chef Just Desserts,”

Dannielle is an expert on stylish entertaining,

food, fashion, and travel. She appears regularly

on NBC’s “Today” and “The Nate Berkus Show,”

as well as on “E! News,” BetterTV, CNBC, CNN,

and local morning programming in New York

and Philadelphia. For Who’s Hungry?™

Magazine, Danielle clued us in on the most

comforting dishes from across the country.

5

Fall is a time for change. With the weather transforming all

around me, the change I like best is cozying up and relaxing

after a fun-filled summer. I also enjoy that it feels new each

autumn when the kids go back to school and we change the

way we cook and entertain.

L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E | D A N N I E L L E K Y R I L L O ’ S P O R T R A I T B Y P E T E R H U R L E Y | P O R T R A I T S B Y A N D R E W B U R K L E

LETTER FROM STEVE

Something new I’m particularly excited

about is the addition of Dannielle Kyrillos

to our Who’s Hungry? family. Dannielle,

a Top Chef Just Desserts series judge

and a regular on NBC’s “Today”, will be

sharing some of her favorite finds in each

issue. In this issue she provides us five

comforting dishes by chefs such as Marcus

Samuelsson and John Bess.

Change is a way of life at WH magazine.

We’ve done things different from the start.

We’re a publication that leads visually

and beyond that there are no rules––we go

the way the wind blows. We develop each

issue by gathering around a big table and

sharing our ideas. As the ideas fly, I am

constantly thinking, how can I make this

work visually?

In one of our discussions someone

brought up fox hunting in Virginia and

the traditional breakfast that follows.

I instantly knew that “Tally Ho!” was a

story I wanted to photograph. I traveled

to Middleburg and enjoyed two hunts,

gregarious people, great food––and not a

single fox was harmed.

For a fresh approach on what to serve this

Thanksgiving, in “In Season” we shake

up tradition with game bird recipes from

Melissa Clark and Laura Calder. And in

“Weather Permitting” we offer some heart-

warming ideas for meatless mains made

with winter squash.

Now, “Who’s Hungry?™” for fall?

STEPHEN HAMILTON

6 S T Y L I S T ’ S C O R N E R

7P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | S T Y L E D B Y PA U L A WA LT E R S

paula walters

The Fall Harvest

To create her harvest-inspired

table setting, prop stylist Paula

Walters turned to nature for

easy, elegant embellishments.

Speckled quail eggs, velvety

feathers, and ruffled kale lend

a touch of the exotic, while

décor like pumpkins and wild

corn maintain a link to the

traditional and familiar.

When recreating this look for your table, Paula

says, begin with a color scheme. A modern

palette of smoky purples, tawny neutrals, and

verdant greens offers the perfect backdrop

for the rich, warm hues of an autumnal feast.

Then, look for ways to work in varying tones

and textures, and don’t be afraid to get creative.

Favorite items from around the home—like a

vintage wooden drawer and ceramic pottery—

are a perfect match for a rustic, organic setting

like this one.

STYLIST’S

b y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

CORNER

8 5 FAV O R I T E C O M F O R T F O O D D I S H E S

b y

D A N N I E L L E K Y R I L L O S

Dannielle Kyrillos, a series

judge on Bravo’s “Top Chef Just

Desserts” and expert on all things

food and entertaining, shares her

five favorite comfort food dishes

from around the country.

Portrait by Peter Hurley

FAVOR

ITE

COMFORT FOOD DISHES FROM RESTAURANTS A R OU N D T H E C OU N T RY

9

TIM LOVE’S POSOLE

THE WOODSHED SMOKEHOUSE

3201 RIVERFRONT DRIVE

FORT WORTH, TX 76107

817. 877.4545

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

At this time of year, craving something

different from the roasty, smoky goodness

they’re cooking up at The Woodshed is like

wearing a seersucker suit to Thanksgiving

dinner—it’s just not right. Meat cooked

outdoors with hickory and pecan wood

kicks at our most primal urges, the very

ones governing the whole idea of comfort

food. Tim Love’s take on posole (also

spelled “pozole”), the sultry Mexican soup

of hominy, chili peppers, broth and flesh,

is usually inspired by the previous day’s

spit-roasted meat. He’ll use pork, turkey…

it’s all good, as long as it’s really, really spicy.

Posole is not just a mouthwatering use of

leftovers, it’s a “gangster hangover cure,”

according to the chef. Perhaps it’s because

I first tried this elixir after a morning spent

swearing off ever drinking again, but I can

attest that he’s quite right.

When three of your downtown restaurant’s

walls are glass-paned industrial garage doors

that offer the best people watching in all of

Manhattan but less in the way of coziness,

putting beautifully wrought comfort on the plates

inside is key. Jonathan Waxman’s earthy Italian

cooking envelopes you like one of the shaggy

fellow’s hugs, and his gnocchi, soft nuggets of

perfection snuggling with some brown butter

and seasonal produce such as nutty, golden

squash, for me epitomizes autumn in New York:

somehow exciting and invigorating and soothing

and nourishing all at once. To eat this at the bar

with a glass of the Pio Cesare Barbera is to feel

like a superhero restoring her powers. “The world

revolves around pasta,” Waxman has written.

Truer words…

JONATHAN WAXMAN’S GNOCCHI

BARBUTO

775 WASHINGTON ST.

NEW YORK, NY 10014

212.924.97002


11

Every culture on the planet has a

dish that its grandmas have been

cooking for hundreds of years to

make everyone feel better about just

about anything. No one blends the

soothing power of so many different

grandmas as elegantly as Marcus

Samuelsson. Every once in a while at

his Harlem hotspot Red Rooster and

at special events, he concocts a potion

he likes to call Ramen Afrique. The

MARCUS SAMUELSSON’S RAMEN AFRIQUE

RED ROOSTER

310 LENOX AVENUE

NEW YORK, NY 10027

212.792.9001

3 noodles are made specially for him

with teff, the gluten-free Ethiopian

grain used in injera; raw shrimp

and scallops cook a bit in the miso

broth, and a poached egg lends extra

lusciousness. “I love having ramen

when the temperature drops and

this version I can call my own,” says

Samuelsson. The mark of a winning

comfort food is intense flavor, and his

creation has three continents’ worth.


There’s a whole chapter in John Besh’s latest

cookbook, My New Orleans, called “Gumbo

Weather,” so you know the guy believes in the

power of that lusty stew at this time of year to

warm up anyone from buddies at his hunting

camp to New Orleanais brunchers. He loves

making it with the spoils of a duck hunt, but the

seafood version he serves at his brasserie, Lüke,

is so rich with oysters, shrimp, sausage, and okra

JOHN BESH’S SEAFOOD GUMBO

LÜKE

333 ST. CHARLES AVE.

NEW ORLEANS, LA 70130

504.378.2840

4

that once you’ve had it, nothing else feels

as restorative. Its base is a roux cooked to

chocolate-brown—Besh has said he no longer

believes the old Louisiana credo that would have

one brown the flour in the fat for as long as it

takes to down two longneck beers or to listen to

both sides of an LP, but each warm bite of layered

flavor tastes like someone spent his whole life

perfecting it.


13

MICHELLE BERNSTEIN’S SHORT RIBS FALLING OFF THE BONE

MICHY’S

6927 BISCAYNE BLVD.

MIAMI, FL 33138

(305) 759-2001

5 Even skinny, half-clad Miamians crave more

substance when the months start to end in

“r.” Naturally, they turn to the lady who’s

described her whole style as “luxurious

comfort food,” Michelle Bernstein. Does it

go without saying that nothing sticks to

your ribs like actual ribs? In this case, the

Short Ribs Falling off the Bone at Michy’s,

luxuriating in their jus, on a cozy saffron

blanket of potato and corn mousseline, are

what to eat when it’s time for a real meal,

one that will make you smile and feel like

all is right with the world when you wake

up the next morning. About now she’s doing

them with roasted root vegetables, which

make partaking in this treat feel even more

like being in a bubble bath with a bottle of

red wine.


14 T H E A R T O F T H E S T E A M S H O T

»

DARK BACKGROUNDContrast is crucial. Since steam is

light and somewhat transparent,

it needs to be set against a dark

background in order to make it pop.THE ART

of the

b y

K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

Few elements in food photography

elicit a visceral reaction as

powerfully as steam rising up from

a dish. We’ve come to associate

those seductive plumes with heat,

freshness, and comfort—and that’s

enough to rev our appetites almost

instantly. But creating and capturing

steam is no easy task; it has to swirl

in just the right way, and it has to

be visible to the camera. Thankfully,

we’ve got some tricks up our sleeves

that help make this possible. Click

the bullets to the right for more on

our methods.

STEAM SHOT

15

» »

BACKLIGHTINGLighting directed towards the

camera, from behind the food,

shines through the steam and

enhances its visibility.


ARTIFICIAL STEAMReal steam fades quickly, and it can be tough

to control exactly where it goes. Alternative

methods range from the simple (a micro-

waved, water-soaked tampon) to the complex

(a custom-built steam and helium rig).

1

2

3

16 O U T O F T H E B A G

17

4


The Feds raid criminal hideouts.

Teenagers raid their parents’ liquor

cabinets. And food stylists? Well,

they’ve been known to raid the

pantry. Turns out everyday items

like Crisco® and cornstarch make for

some unexpected, but useful, styling

tools. Read on to learn more about the

humble styling stars that may already

be stashed in your pantry—just waiting

to be discovered.

1. hungry jack® potatoesMashed potatoes, meat’s faithful

sidekick, can be tucked under a bed of

greens or the filling of a pie to give the

dish shape and height.

2. kitchen bouquet®

A browning agent adds deep, rich color

to everything from meat and stews to

sauces and gravies.

3. cornstarch This powdered sugar look-alike

doesn’t dissolve or melt when

sprinkled atop baked goods.

4. crisco®

The stuff behind tender-flaky pastry,

shortening also does a great job of

binding together food crumbs.

OUT of the

BAGb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

T O N Y P R I O L O

P O R T R A I T O F A

C H E Fb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : T O N Y P R I O L O18

19

what do you eat on your days off?

On my days off, I try and cook for my lovely wife Sarah

something that she requests in the morning so it is ready

when she gets off work. Something like chili or matzo ball

soup. Or, if I am not cooking I try and go out to dinner with my

friends who are also chefs. Sometimes we like to go to ethnic

neighborhoods and eat food from other cultures, such as in

Chinatown or on Lawrence Avenue for Korean food.

have you spent a lot of time in italy?

I have spent a lot of time in Italy, I try to go at least once a

year. It is hard to get away for any longer but I do occasionally

sneak in a second trip.

what are your favorite food regions?

I have to say that in all my travels to Italy, my past trip last

January to Sicily was by far the best. The food, the culture, the

setting and the people really make it the best. In Sicily you can

get the most simple of foods in the Palermo market from fried

panelle to arancini, to a mystery meat basket of all kinds of

steamed innards and assorted meats. My favorite is Sfincione,

a flatbread pizza baked with tomatoes ground with pecorino

and anchovies.

what is your favorite childhood food memory?

One of my best childhood memories (I must have been six

years old) was with my Grandmother Priolo. She was an avid

cook and would travel all around Chicago by bus to get the

best ingredients and food products. I remember one trip I took

with her to Little Italy, which was at least three bus rides away

from the Northwest side of Chicago where I grew up, to get a

part for her meat grinder that was broken from overuse.

who would you want to cook for if you could

chose one person dead or alive?

There is only one, my grandmother, Fay Priolo. I would like to

show her how she influenced my whole life.

best question, what is your favorite movie?

LOL, this is a hard one. I have two: first it would be Shawshank

Redemption and second The Rookie (I am a baseball fanatic).


Chef Tony Priolo brings an authentic slice of Italy

to the Chicago culinary scene with his popular

restaurant Piccolo Sogno and sister hot-spot,

Piccolo Sogno Due. While the latter carries with

it an added emphasis on seafood, Tony’s clean

and rustic cooking style, focus on high quality

ingredients, and masterful preparation make

both dining experiences truly exceptional. We

invited Stephanie Izard, the subject of last issue’s

“Portrait of a Chef,” to ask Tony anything she

wanted…and Tony was happy to oblige.

One of the many standouts on the menu at

Piccolo Sogno Due: the grilled veal loin with

summer squash, cured tomatoes, Tropea

onions and aged balsamic.

20 I N S E A S O N : B E Y O N D T H E U S U A L B I R D

May

Sep

tem

ber

Jan

uar

y

July

Nov

emb

er

Mar

ch

Jun

e

Oct

ober

Feb

ruar

y

Au

gust

Dec

emb

er

Ap

ril

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

21P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

Beyond the Usual Bird( Non-Turkey Alternatives to Celebrate Thanksgiving )

b y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

I N SE A SON

Turn to any list of foods that help you

fall asleep, and you’ll find turkey, with its

sleep-inducing amino acids, somewhere

at the very top. But the last thing you want

to do this holiday season is put your guests

to sleep. If you’re ready to try something

new and venture beyond the traditional

bird, we’ve got just the right alternatives

to liven up your dinner party. From Melissa

Clark’s Cider-Braised Pheasant with Pearl

Onions and Apples to Laura Calder’s

Roasted Quail with Grapes, each dish

makes for a wonderfully festive and deli-

ciously satisfying centerpiece to surround

with all your favorite fixings.

I N S E A S O N : B E Y O N D T H E U S U A L B I R D

Cider-Braised Pheasant with Pearl Onions and Apples

22

View Melissa Clark’s recipe on page 56 »


When it comes to cooking with game birds,

don’t be afraid to step outside your comfort

zone. As Melissa Clark, New York Times

food columnist and author of over 30

cookbooks, so aptly puts it, “A bird is a bird

is a bird—whether we are talking chicken

or quail or wild duck. Just follow the recipe

and then you’ll find that the hardest thing

about cooking game is tracking it down.”

Game birds can be found at many farmer’s

markets and high-end butchers, but be

sure to place your order well in advance to

ensure availability; alternatively, they can

easily be purchased online.

Nov

emb

er

Oct

ober

10 11

“Pheasant is very mild, like a cross

between chicken and turkey. It’s a

delicious and overlooked bird.”

– MELISSA CLARK


If you’re short on time and have a

smaller group to feed, quail might

just be the bird for you.

Not only does their dainty size make them easy

to handle and quick to cook up, but as Laura

Calder—television host and bestselling cook-

book author—describes to us, they are “festive

little things: the fact that they go so well with

deep flavors like fruits or braised mushrooms

makes them great for celebrations.”

Roasted Quail with Grapes

Nov

emb

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Oct

ober

10 11


Roasted Quail with Grapes Quail is an excellent option for small

gatherings where you can serve one bird

per person. The meat is tender, juicy and

non-gamey, pairing perfectly with fresh,

sweet grapes and other fruits.View Laura Calder’s recipe on page 58 »


Honey-Roasted Duck

A regular feature at fine-dining

establishments, duck is far easier to

work with than one might imagine.

Take a dip into fancy-pants waters with Melissa

Clark’s honey-lacquered duck, a deep golden roast

with rosy meat and crisp, burnished skin. Place your

favorite produce—think thick-sliced apples, onions

and potatoes—at the bottom of the roasting pan

and let it caramelize beneath the bird. Or, forgo the

fruits and veggies and save the rendered duck fat—

this stuff is pure gold. Refrigerate the fat in a clean,

sealed container and use it for frying extra-crispy

potatoes, working into tart crusts or making confit.

View Melissa Clark’s recipe on page 59 »


honey-roasted duckDuck isn’t reserved for reservations-only

restaurants. Melissa Clark’s Honey-Roasted

Duck is impressive and accessible.

duck saladLet’s be honest: No one likes cooking the day

after an elaborate dinner, but that doesn’t mean

your post-party meals have to suffer. Leftover

duck is great atop a simple salad of mixed greens,

vinaigrette, cannellini beans or plump dried fruit.

28

WEATHER PERMITTING

W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G : FA L L I N T O W I N T E R S Q U A S H

b y J U D I T H M A R A

Any time of year that you can grab a bunch of squash

blossoms, you won’t regret it. Stuff them with any soft cheese

such as goat or Telaggio, add fresh herbs, slivers of speck or

crabmeat. Coat with two beaten eggs, roll in panko bread

crumbs and lightly pan-fry.

FALL INTO WINTER

SQUASH


One vegetable family is the epitome of fall

and winter food. I’m talking about winter

squash. Not only do all the classics like

butternut, acorn and sugar pumpkin have

a comforting, sweet, earthy taste, they’re

probably one of the easiest vegetables on

earth to cook. Which is also comforting.

Farmer’s markets are brimming with all

kinds of exciting and new gold-green-

orange winter squash. Did I say exciting?

Yes, because each year more heirloom

varieties are being rediscovered and grown

by small farmers, most of which you can’t

find at a supermarket.

30 W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G : FA L L I N T O W I N T E R S Q U A S H

acorn squash

Acorn squash stuffed with rice, roasted

squash, dried cranberries and scallions. Bake

in a shallow amount of water (bain-marie) to

retain the shape of the squash.

31

It used to be easy to answer the question of what

the difference was between summer and winter

squash: Summer squash is thin-skinned and

winter is thick-skinned, hence better for winter

storage. Not so anymore. Two heirloom types

coveted right now are red kuri and delicata, and

both are so thin-skinned that the entire squash is

edible from seeds to skin.

One of our favorite characteristics of winter

squash is that you can create all kinds of hearty

meatless main dishes with it. A creamy au gratin

of butternut squash combined with cheese,

cream and bread crumbs is always welcome.

Acorn squash makes a wonderful container for

any kind of stuffing from rice to quinoa. Risotto, a

dish of creamy carnaroli rice simmered in broth

and flecked with roasted squash, is as mellow

and comforting as a warm fall day.


acorn squash

squash risottoA traditional style of squash risotto garnished

with shaved truffles.

32

risotto with cheez-it’sChef Graham Elliot elevated squash to new

heights with his Wisconsin Cheddar Risotto.

Creamy risotto with squash, apples, cheddar

cheese and Cheez-It’s make this dish more than

exciting.

W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G : FA L L I N T O W I N T E R S Q U A S H

squash tips for cooks

1. Just like pumpkin seeds, all winter squash

seeds can be cleaned and toasted for a healthy

snack. Just follow any recipe for toasting

pumpkin seeds. We recommend low and slow.

2. My grandmother kept winter squash (thick-

skinned) in the cellar all winter. But most people

don’t have a 45-degree cellar. Thankfully, there

are other steps you can take to ensure your

squash lasts as long as possible. Make sure there

are no bruises or cuts on the squash you buy,

then leave it on the countertop for one to two

weeks to thicken the skins. At that point, you

can keep the squash in the fridge (or a cellar)

for quite a while. Avoid the vegetable drawer,

however, as it is far too humid.

3. All cooked squash or pumpkin freezes well.

33

au gratin


Peel and slice butternut squash very thinly

and layer in a buttered ceramic dish with

shredded Gruyère cheese, thyme, salt and

pepper. Pour about 1 1/2 cups cream over the

top and sprinkle with grated Parmesan.

Bake at 375˚F for 40 minutes.

34 H I G H S P I R I T S : M A N ( A N D W O M A N ) A B O U T T O W N

View Gramercy Tavern’s recipe on page 64 »

man about town

There are cocktails and then there are the cocktails

that beverage director Juliette Pope’s team at Gramercy

Tavern in NYC create. Stylish and sophisticated, yet

carefully rooted in the classics, their latest addition,

the Man About Town, has a long pedigree.

M A N ( and woman )

A B OU T TOW N

HIGH SPIRITS

b y

J U D I T H M A R A


The name Man About Town was devised by

bartender Paul Michel who worked on the

cocktail—it is simply the translation of the

French Boulevardier and seemed appropriate,

given its sleek yet jaunty elegance.

The inspiration for the cocktail came

from the Negroni, a classic Italian cocktail.

While playing around with a different version

of the Negroni, the staff at Gramercy Tavern

made an older, lesser-known riff on the drink,

the French Boulevardier. It substitutes rye for

gin as a partner to the Campari and the

sweet vermouth—all in equal parts.

Upon tasting it, the team thought it was

great for autumn because of its orange-

gold hue, but they wanted to make it

more drinkable. They added sweeter

amaro, the classic Sicilian Cynar, upped

the proportion of rye and were thrilled

with the resulting cocktail—one that any

man or woman about town would love.

TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E 36

TA L LY HO !b y M O L LY S O R G E

37

Molly Sorge, an equine journalist from

Ruther Glen, Virginia and her horse, Elf,

often spend autumn mornings on a fox

hunt. Molly shares with us a story that

transports us into her world of hunts,

horses, hounds and a hunt breakfast.

Stephen Hamilton recently traveled

to Middleburg, Virginia to photograph

and experience first hand a traditional

fox hunt and all its trimmings. By his

photos you’ll see he didn’t go hungry.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N

38 TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E

Hunting mornings start early, drenched

in fog and spiked with light as the sun

makes its way through the trees. As I ready

my horse, I chat with friends, catching up

on all the news and sharing stories. After

swinging a leg over my horse and setting

off amidst the field of riders, I pause a

moment and close my eyes, smelling the

sharp, tangy sweat of my horse and the

smoky musk of the leaves underfoot.

The air has a piercing chill. We’ve stopped

at a check, which means we are waiting for

the hounds to pick up the scent of a fox. I

lay my hand quietly on my horse’s neck,

murmuring, seeking to calm him because

he lives to chase the pack. He chews on his

bit excitedly, creating a metallic music of

his own.

The 20 or so riders of the hunt field all

standing, waiting, listening. A friend hands

me a flask filled with liquid warmth and

courage. The huntsman in charge of the

pack of hounds urges them on with a

soft voice and short blows of his horn.

They’re looking for the fox.

39P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N

The huntsman in charge of

the pack of hounds urges them

on with a soft voice and short

blows of his horn.


The joyous voices of the hounds draw

us dashing through the woods and

leaping over stone walls, the thrill of the

chase giving wings to our horses’ feet.

41

A melodic cry splits the air—a hound has

caught the scent. The crisp fall air echoes

as the pack of hounds gives voice in tune

like a choir—not barking, but literally

singing their delight at giving chase. The

horses swing their heads high and pull

on the reins. We’re off, galloping over

the fields. My horse’s hooves beat out a

staccato rhythm as the wind whistles in

my ears and blood races through my veins.

The joyous voices of the hounds draw us

dashing through the woods and leaping

over stone walls, the thrill of the chase

giving wings to our horses’ feet.

The hunt flies by, hours of mad gallops

interspersed with quiet checks as the

hounds alternatively discover the fox’s

scent, then lose and have to search for

it again. The cry “Tally ho!” reverberates

across the field as a sleek, crafty fox darts

through the meadow, circling back on his

tracks in full view of all of us, but giving

the hounds the slip.



At the end of the day, the fox merrily

finds his way home, having given us

grand adventures, and we walk back

to the gathering of trucks and trailers,

sweaty, sated, and hungry. Sometimes

we eat right outside the trailers, but

today we will be at a beautiful home

in the hills. I untack my horse and

tie him to the trailer, leaving him to

contented hay-munching. It’s time for

the hunt breakfast.

As hungry as foxhunters are for thrills,

they’re just as ravenous for a fulfilling repast

after a hard gallop. One by one each of us

takes a turn scraping the mud off our boots

on the cast iron boot scraper. Then we clomp

loudly as we walk up the steps of our host’s

large frame farmhouse. The door swings open

and a gush of warm air touches our cheeks

and our fingers as we peel off damp leather

gloves. We rub our hands together to relieve

the numbness and in anticipation.

43

assorted artisan cheeses & fruit


45

Across from the stone fireplace an antique

table creaks under the platters of ham

biscuits—a must on any Virginia menu,

quiches, baked apples and a marvelous

cheese and fruit plate. It’s a feast fit for a

king, and our hosts have also included a

steaming hot stew and roasted vegetables

from their fields. The beguiling scent of

autumn and tradition surrounds us.

46

No hunt breakfast is complete without a

few sips from the flask; each foxhunter

has his or her own personal concoction for

the day. I am soon balancing a plate full of

decadent morsels on my lap, feeling the

adrenaline of the chase fade and a deep

sense on contentment flood over me.

View Josephine Orba’s recipe on page 60 »

boeuf bourguinonne

“That was quite a leap over that wall!

Did you need a parachute to land?”

jokes a fellow hunter. I wink at him

and ask how he’d been able to see me,

since his horse had been accelerating

rapidly, which looked unintentional.

TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E

47

Make biscuits according to your favorite

recipes. Heat and slice the ham. While still

warm, spread a split biscuit with whole

grain Dijon mustard, watercress and sliced

Virginia ham. Serve with cornichons.

Recipe courtesy of Josephine Orba

ham biscuits

View Michael Martin’s recipe on page 61 »

baking powder biscuits (cat head biscuits)



roasted vegetables


P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N 49

50

This breaking of bread is much like a family

dinner, with teasing and congratulations

flung about against the background of

camaraderie. The end-of-day banter lets us

relive each moment, laugh at each other,

and soak the experiences into our bones.

baked applesBaked apples are stuffed with chopped dates,

raisins, chopped pecans, butter, brown sugar,

and sweet spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves).

TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E


panna cotta with jelly

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N 51

The Virginia hunt breakfast is

actually served later in the day after

a full morning of fox hunting. By that

time, guests are ravenous and the

“breakfast” more closely resembles a

hearty feast. On our menu you’ll find

delightful autumn dishes from ham

to roasted vegetables to baked apples

to panna cotta. And of course, there

has to be some eggs.

hunt breakfast buffet menu

- assorted artisan cheeses and fruit

- classic quiche lorraine

- baked virginia ham and ham biscuits

- baking powder biscuits

- baked apples

- boeuf bourguinonne

- egg noodles, not shown

- roasted vegetables

- panna cotta with jelly

virginia hunt breakfast

53P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N

5454 H O W W E D I D I T


Deconstructing a shot

from Stephen Hamilton’s

The Restaurant Project

favorite dish

Cassoulet

Restaurant

Maude’s Liquor Bar, Chicago

food stylist

Josephine Orba

prop stylist

Paula Walters

HOW WE DID IT

b y J U D I T H M A R A

56

ingredients for marinade:

· 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

· 5 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

· 3 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves, whole

· 1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice (from 1 1/2 oranges)

· 3 tablespoons finely grated orange zest (from 1 1/2 oranges)

· large pinch kosher salt

· 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

· 3 (3-pound) pheasants, each rinsed inside and out,

patted dry, cut into 6 pieces

R E C I P E I N D E X

serves 8

By Melissa Clark

cider-braised pheasant with pearl onions and apples

57R E C I P E I N D E X

make marinade:In blender, combine olive oil, ginger, tarragon, orange juice, zest,

salt, and pepper and purée until smooth. In large bowl, combine

marinade and pheasant and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate

overnight or up to 48 hours.

braise pheasant:In very large Dutch oven over moderately high heat, heat olive oil

until hot but not smoking. Remove pheasant pieces from marinade,

scraping off excess, and sprinkle with salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Working in batches, sear pheasant pieces until well browned, about

5 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towel-lined platter to drain.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Skim off all but 1 tablespoon oil from pan,

leaving browned bits at bottom, and set pan over moderately low

heat. Add butter and heat until melted. Stir in onions, bay leaf,

fennel seeds, salt, remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and sugar.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are well caramelized,

30 to 40 minutes.

Return pheasant to pot. Add chicken broth, cider, and wine.

(Liquid should cover half of pheasant pieces. Add more chicken

broth if necessary.) Raise heat to high and bring liquid to simmer.

Add apples, cover, and transfer pot to oven. Braise, turning

pheasant pieces occasionally, until meat is cooked through

and tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

ingredients for caramelized onions & apples:

· 10 ounces pearl onions, root ends trimmed

· 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

· 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch cubes

· 2 teaspoons sugar

· pinch kosher salt

· pinch freshly ground black pepper

· 3 tablespoons apple cider

ingredients for braise:

· 1 teaspoon kosher salt

· 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

· 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

· 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

· 3 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 6 cups)

· 1 bay leaf

· 1 teaspoon fennel seeds

· 1 teaspoon table salt

· pinch sugar

· 2 to 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth, plus additional, if necessary

· 2 cups apple cider

· 1 cup dry white wine

· 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced

Using tongs or slotted spoon, transfer pheasant to platter and

cover with foil to keep warm. Set pot over high heat and bring

pan juices to boil. Boil, uncovered, until sauce is well reduced

and thickened, about 25 minutes. Taste and add additional salt

and pepper, if necessary.

while juices are reducing, prepare caramelized onions and apples:Bring medium pot of water to boil. Add pearl onions and boil,

uncovered, 1 minute. Drain and run under cold water until

cool enough to handle; slip off skins.

In small skillet over moderately high heat, heat oil until hot but

not smoking. Add onions, apples, sugar, salt, and pepper and stir to

combine. Sear, shaking pan occasionally, until onions and apples

are dark golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in apple cider, scraping up

any browned bits in pan. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until

onions are fork tender, about 2 minutes more.

serve:Spoon some of sauce over pheasant and garnish with onions,

apples, and chopped tarragon. Serve additional sauce alongside.

ingredients to serve:

· Fresh tarragon leaves, chopped

58

Rinse, pat dry, and truss the quail. Mix the oil with 1 tablespoon

with 1 tablespoon of the Cognac, and salt and pepper. Rub well

all over the hens in a dish, and set aside half an hour to marinate.

Heat the oven to 450 degrees.

Heat a roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat,

and brown the quail well on all sides, about 10 minutes total.

Spoon out any excess oil from the pan, and transfer the quail to

the oven to finish cooking, about 25 minutes or until the juices

run clear at the leg.

Transfer the quail to a serving platter, and cover with foil to keep

warm. Pour the fat off the pan, and discard. Over medium-high

heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons Cognac to the pan and

carefully light it. When the flames die out, add the stock and boil to

reduce by about half. Reduce the heat to low, add the grapes, and

heat for about 3 minutes to warm through and barely soften them.

Pour the sauce and the grapes over the quail, and serve.

ingredients:

· 8 quail

· 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil

· 3 tablespoons Cognac

· salt and pepper

· 1 cup chicken stock (homemade or low sodium)

· 1 pound seedless green and red grapes, halved

makes 8 servings


roasted quail with grapes

Recipe from French Taste by Laura Calder. ©2009 by Laura Calder. All rights reserved. Published by HarperCollins Canada.

59

Trim the excess fat from the duck; you’ll see lumps of it next

to the tail and around the neck opening. To brine the duck, in

a small bowl stir together salt, pepper, minced garlic cloves

and bay leaves. Rub the duck all over with the brine mixture,

including the cavity. Using a skewer or the point of a paring

knife, prick the duck skin all over, being careful not to pierce

the flesh. Place the duck in a plastic bag, squeeze the air out,

and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Fill a stock pot with water and

bring to a boil. Carefully, using a pair of tongs and a wooden

spoon to stabilize the duck, lower the duck into the boiling

water and blanch for 5 minutes. The blanching tightens the

skin and helps it crisp during roasting. Bring the pot next to

the sink; place a colander inside the sink. Carefully, using the

tongs and a wooden spoon, lift the duck out of the water and

into the colander to drain.

When the duck is cool enough to handle but is still warm,

stuff its cavity with the lemon and remaining 6 garlic cloves.

Place the sage and thyme in last so the herbs poke out of

the cavity–they will act as netting and prevent the stuffing

ingredients from falling out.

Place the duck on a roasting rack, breast side up, over a

roasting pan. Roast for 45 minutes; then using a wooden

spoon and a pair of tongs, flip the duck so it’s breast side

down. Roast duck for another 50 minutes. Brush the back

of the duck with 1 tablespoon of honey, flip the duck so it’s

breast side up again, and roast another 20 minutes. Raise the

heat to 500ºF, brush the duck breast with 2 tablespoons of

honey, and roast 15 or so minutes until the skin is crispy and

brown. Allow the duck to rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Serve warm.

ingredients for brine:

· 2 tablespoons salt, more to taste

· 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, more to taste

· 2 garlic cloves, minced

· 6 bay leaves, crushed

· One 5-pound Long Island (a.k.a Pekin) duck

ingredients for roasting pan:

· 6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

· 1 lemon, quartered

· 3 large sage sprigs

· 3-4 sprigs thyme

· 3 tablespoons honey

makes 4 servings


honey-roasted duck

by Melissa Clark

60 R E C I P E I N D E X

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Pat beef dry. On the top of the stove, brown the meat

in a little olive oil in a large skillet. Place into heavy

casserole dish and season with salt and pepper. Cook

onions and carrots in same pan until lightly browned.

Add the garlic and cook a few seconds and add the

vegetables to the meat. Deglaze sauté pan with wine,

then pour wine and stock over meat and braise in

slow oven for 2 - 3 hours.

While meat is braising, sauté mushrooms in a little

butter, set aside.

After the meat is tender, remove from oven add the

Beurre Manié to the pot. Stir well and return to oven.

Add mushrooms and heat through. Check seasoning.

Stir in fresh thyme and parsley.

ingredients:

· olive oil

· 4 - 5 pounds beef (top sirloin or top round) trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes.

· 4 carrots, peeled and thickly sliced

· 2 cloves of garlic minced (optional)

· 1 bag frozen white pearl onions

· 1 - 2 cups beef stock

· 2 - 3 cups red wine

· 1 pound button mushrooms, cleaned, cut in half if they are large

· salt, pepper

· Beurre Manié (equal parts flour mixed with soft butter,

added to thicken the sauce, you’ll need 1- 2 tablespoons)

· Chopped fresh thyme and parsley

makes 16 servings

boeuf bourguinonne

by Josephine Orba


Preheat oven to 450 degrees. In a large bowl combine

flour, baking powder and salt. Using fork, cut shortening

into flour until consistency of coarse meal. Add milk; stir

with fork until mixture leaves sides of bowl and forms a

soft, moist dough.

On floured surface, toss lightly until no longer sticky. Roll

out to 1/2 inch thick, and cut with 2-inch round, floured

cutter. Place on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 8 to 12

minutes or until light golden brown. Makes about 12 to

15 biscuits. ingredients for brine:

· 2 1/4 cups all purpose flour

· 3 teaspoons baking powder

· 1/2 teaspoon salt

· 1/2 cup shortening

· 1 cup milk

baking powder biscuits (cat head biscuits)

by Michael Martin

Michael Martin is an owner/rider/trainer from Franklin, TN. He has fox hunted for years in Virginia and Pennsylvania. They call these Cat Head Biscuits “Cause they’re as big as a cat’s head”.

makes 12-15 biscuits


Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Scrub carrots and parsnips

(cut into 2-inch pieces if large). Slice red onion in rings.

Peel and slice sweet potato into wedges. Trim Brussels

sprouts and cut in half. Peel garlic cloves and toss all

vegetables in generous amount of olive oil. Add salt and

fresh ground pepper to taste.

Spread onto a large baking sheet and roast, tuning

occasionally until cooked and browned, about 45

minutes. Sprinkle with fresh chopped parsley.

ingredients:

· 3 parsnips

· 6 carrots

· 1 red onion

· 1 large sweet potato

· 1 pound Brussels sprouts

· 3 cloves garlic

· olive oil, salt, pepper, fresh chopped parsley

makes 16 servings

roasted vegetables

by Josephine Orba


for the panna cottaSprinkle gelatin onto 1/2 cup cream to soften. Heat 2 cups

of cream with 1/2 cup sugar –do not boil. Combine hot

cream and cream with gelatin and cream. Add vanilla

and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Pour into small, clear

serving containers. Cool and refrigerate until set.

for the jellyMake raspberry Jello or add 1 1/2 - 2 teaspoons gelatin to

2 cups fruit juice. Allow to cool but not set. Place single

raspberry on surface of set cream and pour raspberry

Jello or gelatin over it. Return to fridge to set.

ingredients for brine:

· 2 1/2 cups heavy cream

· 2 teaspoons gelatin

· 1/2 cup sugar

· 1 teaspoon vanilla

· 2 cups raspberry jello or fruit juice mixed with gelatin

· fresh raspberries

panna cotta with jelly

by Josephine Orba


Stir until very cold in mixing tin filled with ice:

2 oz. rye (we use Rittenhouse but any good rye will do)

1 oz. Cynar (a specific brand of Italian amaro)

1 oz. sweet vermouth (we use Dolin)

Strain into coupe or martini glass. Optional garnish: a

brandied cherry in the bottom of the glass.

makes 1 cocktail

High Spirits: Man About Town

Recipe courtesy of Gramercy Tavern

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Who's Hungry? Magazine | Fall 2012 | No 4

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Transcript of Who's Hungry? Magazine | Fall 2012 | No 4