Who's Hungry? Magazine | Best Of Issue | No 12

b e s t o f i s s u e N O 0 1 2

2

FEATURES

2 C O N T E N T S

18 Portrait of a Chef: Stephanie Izard 86 Portrait of a Chef:

Guiseppe Tentori

74 The Cow and the Turkey

32 In Season:Sweet Shades of Gold

20 Bison is Back

46

88 Food Porn

Julia &The New Kid

72 The Art of the Champagne Cork Pop

54 Tally Ho!

6 A Day in the Life

3

CONTACTSmedia inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]

Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]

representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com

[email protected] | 312.432.1702

stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607

www.stephenhamilton.com

4 Contributors

5 Letter from Steve

6 A Day in Life

18 Portrait of a Chef: Stephanie Izard

20 Bison is Back

32 In Season: Sweet Shades of Gold

46 Julia & The New Kid

54 Tally Ho!

72 The Art of the Champagne Cork Pop

74 The Cow and the Turkey

86 Portrait of a Chef: Guiseppe Tentori

88 Food Porn

102 Portrait of a Chef: Rodelio Aglibot

104 Mustard Valley: Photo Essay

118 Stone Soup: Glamgaiting

136 Recipe Index

CONTENTS

N O 0 1 2

3C O N T E N T S

118 Stone Soup:Glamgaiting

102 Portrait of a Chef: Rodelio Aglibot

104 Mustard Valley: Photo Essay

4

kate bernot | Editor and Writer

A freelance food writer and editor, Kate Bernot has

contributed to NBC’s The Feast, Chicago Sun-Times,

Conde Nast Traveler, Serious Eats Chicago, and

BlackboardEats. She helped develop the editorial

vision of Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine and wrote about

mustard plants and Chef Giuseppe Tentori’s clam chowder for this issue.

David Sedaris | Humorist, Writer, and Radio Commentator

One of America’s greatest humorists, David Sedaris is

a master of satire and the bestselling author of Barrel

Fever, Me Talk Pretty One Day, Holidays on Ice, and many

more. He is also a playwright and regular commentator

for National Public Radio. For Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine, David treats us to a

holiday fable in which barnyard animals take on suspiciously human traits.

C O N T R I B U T O R S

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost seven

years and helps to lead the editorial concept and

execution of Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine. An

award-winning former creative director for major

ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter

Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and literally

hand writes How We Did it.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™

magazine with meticulous attention to detail and

typography, and helped turn static images into an

interactive experience. His award-winning design

work has been featured in the pages of Print,

Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

Molly Sorge | Writer

A lifelong lover of all things equine, Molly Sorge found

a way to unite her greatest passions when she began

writing and photographing for the weekly equestrian

magazine The Chronicle of the Horse sixteen years ago.

When she isn’t traveling or scooping up a story, Molly

can be found galloping across the countryside on her own steed, the inimitable

Elf. For Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine, she recounts the thrill of a Virginia foxhunt

and the delectable breakfast that follows.

c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 1 2

deirdre o’shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,

you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years

of experience in managing photography studios,

Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of

Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in

organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping

production on schedule.

kathryn o’malley | Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her passion

for writing about it; as part of the Who’s Hungry? ™

editorial team, she indulges in a bit of both and has

contributed various pieces of work for the magazine.

Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com, garners

more than 40,000 unique viewers per month and highlights the people and

stories behind great recipes.

Sara Moulton | Chef, Cookbook Author, Television Personality

One of the hardest-working women in the food

biz, Sara has hosted multiple Food Network shows,

served as Gourmet magazine’s executive chef for

23 years, and balanced it all with family life. She

has written three cookbooks, and hosts her own PBS show, Sara’s Weeknight

Meals. For Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine, Sara reflects on her long relationship

with Julia Child.

Bryan Olsen | Writer and Performer

Bryan Olsen is a writer and performer for Barely

Political’s “The Key of Awesome.” Additionally, he wrote

for Comedy Central’s Roast of David Hasselhoff, and

sold a screenplay to Paramount Pictures and Ivan

Reitman. As an actor, Mr. Olsen has appeared on

several episodes of Comedy Central’s Chappelle’s Show. For Who’s Hungry? ™

Magazine, Bryan gets dirty with some tantalizing food porn.

Inga Witscher | Dairy Farmer and Host of Around the TableAs a fourth generation dairy farmer, Inga isn’t afraid to

get her hands dirty. Tending cattle, plucking vegetables

from the garden, baking break, and making cheese: Inga

does it all, and makes it all look easy. Her new PBS series,

Around the Farm Table, focuses on the work of local farmers, seasonal ingredients

and what to do with them. For Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine, Inga shares her daily

adventures from a bustling farm, where the sound of cows in the morning is the

only alarm clock she needs.

Todd Womack | Comedian and Writer

Todd Womack is a Brooklyn-based comedian who

has been a writer/performer on the gigantic YouTube

series The Key of Awesome, since 2010. The series has

over 1 billion views to date, and can be found on the

YouTube channel “Barely Political.” His credits include

Good Morning America, 20/20, Chappelle’s Show; and appearances on Bravo,

VH-1, TNT, and in Esquire magazine. For Who’s Hungry? ™ Magazine, Todd

gets dirty with some tantalizing food porn.

5L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E | P O R T R A I T B Y AV E RY H O U S E

As we slip closer to the New

Year many people think back

and reflect on the past year’s

highlights. I took a similar

approach with this issue of

WH? and looked back through

all 11 issues to select my

favorite stories.

LETTER FROM STEVE

Since inception I’ve pushed the photography to reach

higher levels of food related “experiences”. I’ve been

swarmed by bees, participated in a Virginia fox hunt,

stood on a vast plain in Wyoming with a herd of

buffalo, seen the fabled golden corridors of mustard

in Napa Valley planted by a 19th century priest, and

photographed dairy cows at dawn then drank their

milk in my coffee.

Some other memorable moments were spent working

with amazing chefs. There are few chefs more

delightful to spend time with than Stephanie Izard,

Guiseppe Tentori and Rodelio Aglibot. I also got a kick

out of the story by famed chef and TV personality,

Sara Moulton, about her years as Julia Child’s

assistant. And no one writes a holiday tale better than

humorist David Sedaris.

These are the type of images and stories we are

committed to in WH? magazine. Which is why we

have taken a short hiatus in order to regroup and to

renew the creative juices for a fresh start in 2015.

Who’s Hungry™ for more? Happy New Year!

Stephen Hamilton

A D AY I N T H E L I F E6

“Red Sky in the morning sailors takes warning”…. That’s ok!

We need the rain. This time of year our pastures can benefit

from all the moisture they can absorb.

With my overalls tucked into my barn

boots, I head out into the field as the sun

rises over Wisconsin. Dragging my feet

through the morning dew, I take a mental

note of what’s growing in the pasture.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 7

A Day in the Lifeb y I N G A W I T S C H E R

There’s clover and plantain, crows foot

trefoil and a few pesky thistles ready to

bloom. Overall it looks good. We will be

able to move the cows into this pasture

after the weekend.

ST

. I

SID

ORE’S

ME

AD

Wisconsin

8

On our farm, St. Isidore’s Mead, we

practice Managed Intensive Grazing,

which means we move the cows to a

fresh strip of grass every 12 hours. The

cows are turned into a new pasture

after the morning and evening milkings.

A D AY I N T H E L I F E8

They spend that time eating a diverse diet

of native grasses and wild herbs which

give their milk a clean, grassy flavor. The

cows in turn fertilize the ground behind

them, improving the soils for the future.

9P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

S t. Isidore’s Mead

10

“Ca-boss, Ca-boss, come on ladies, let’s go”“Ca-boss, Ca-boss, come on ladies, let’s go,”

I call out to our 15 Jersey cows as, one by

one, they begin to rise. First is Hannah; she

stands up and immediately whips her long

brown tail across her back before going into

a downward dog-like stretch and then heads

off to the water tank. Next Jenny and Mae

stand up, arch their backs and file into the

line of cows heading towards the barn.

A D AY I N T H E L I F E

11P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 11

12 A D AY I N T H E L I F E


Back at the barn, my husband Joe sanitizes

all the milking equipment. Producing high

quality milk is extremely important to

us. We will never produce a large amount

of milk, but we work to produce the best

quality. To ensure that high quality, we

milk the old-fashioned way, using a bucket

milking system. The bucket milkers are

gentler on the cows’ udders, and also on

the milk. In a conventional/factory farm

system, milk is pumped dozens of times.

That pumping shatters the fat globules

of the milk. When handled gently, the

milk stays in its truest form, creating a

fuller flavored milk, perfect for making

St. Isidore’s cheese.

14 A D AY I N T H E L I F E

15

At the age of 61, my father, a third

generation dairy farmer, became a licensed

Wisconsin State cheese maker. Now, when

the cows are eating grass as the seasons

allow, we transform our grass-fed, organic,

high quality milk into a farmstead raw milk

cheese. Today is one of those days when

we can deliver the milk to him, still warm

from the morning’s milking.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N

16

After 8 hours of stirring, then adding

the rennet and cultures, the curd comes

together. The cheese is then pressed and

wrapped in butter-soaked cheesecloth,

then pressed again to form 20-pound

round truckles. A label is sewn into the

cheesecloth with the date, the name of

the pasture the cows were grazing in,

a description of the weather and the

names of the cows who produced the

milk. The cheese is then moved into a

cave with the correct temperature and

humidity. The truckles are turned and

brushed continuously throughout a

one-year hibernation in the cave. This

guarantees even moisture throughout

the truckle. Mold will grow on the cheese

which will provide flavor.

After the evening milking, Joe follows the

cows to the field and I make a pit stop

to make martinis and grab some curds

out of the fridge from this morning’s

cheese make. Sitting with Joe in the clover,

cocktails in hand, we listen to the cows

graze—this is a tradition my father started

when we first moved to St. Isidore’s Mead.

With the last sip of gin, the rain starts

to sprinkle, and we head for home.

A D AY I N T H E L I F E

S T E P H A N I E I Z A R D

P O R T R A I T O F A

C H E Fb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : S T E P H A N I E I Z A R D18

19

Izard’s laid-back style and swoon-

worthy flavors draw flocks of

hungry fans and food lovers from

across the country. Her cooking is

bold and complex, yet completely

unpretentious–much like the chef

herself. Izard’s infectious enthusiasm

and warm, no-fuss personality makes

her one of the most likeable culinary

rock stars you will ever meet.

We invited Giuseppe Tentori, the

subject of last issue’s “Portrait of a

Chef,” to submit questions he was

curious to ask Stephanie…and it

seems they both have a great sense

of humor.

what would you do if you weren’t a chef?

Scuba instructor.

what’s one of your funniest

moments in a kitchen?

Not sure if it was funny, but it was

awkward: When a guest started talking to

one of the male line cooks, thanking him

for the meal, convinced it was me. Do I look

that manly? Hmmm.

what do you look for in chefs who apply to work

in your kitchen?

We like line cooks that love what they do

and are also fun. 12 to 14 hours is a long

time to spend with people that are not fun.

what’s one ingredient that you’d

rather not ever cook with? why?

Green bell peppers. For no other reason

than they just do not taste good.

what do you miss the most

about your days on the line?

When I start to miss it I just go back

there and cook.


Stephanie Izard knows success.

She is the first female winner in

Top Chef history, owner of one

of Chicago’s hottest restaurants,

Girl & the Goat (inspired by the

Izard surname, which is French

for a Pyrenean goat-antelope),

and is about to launch a

spin-off restaurant-diner,

Little Goat, this October.

Quite possibly the most popular item on

the Girl and the Goat’s menu is Stephanie’s

Sautéed Green Beans with fish sauce

vinaigrette and cashews.

B I S O N I S B A C K20

BISONis back

b y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y


“This scenery already rich pleasing and beautiful was still farther

heightened by immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk and antelopes

which we saw in every direction feeding on the hills and plains. I

do not think I exaggerate when I estimate the number of buffalo

which could be comprehended at one view to amount to 3000.”

— Meriwether Lewis, September 17, 1804, near present-day Chamerlain, South Dakota

22 B I S O N I S B A C K22


BISON FACT

Once upon a time, the great American

bison—often mistakenly called

buffalo—flourished in the tens of

millions and covered the Great Plains

in a blanket of shaggy brown. By the

late 19th century, however, settlers

had killed some 50 million bison for

food, sport and to deprive Native

Americans of their most valuable

natural resource. Enormous herds

were reduced to near extinction.

Bison are the heaviest land animals in North

America, often weighing a ton or more and

standing 5 to 6 feet tall at the shoulders. They

have large heads, massive humps and sharp

curved horns that can grow up to 2 feet long.

Despite their formidable size and bulk, bison

can sprint at speeds up to 40 miles per hour.

24 B I S O N I S B A C K

25

Propelled by the efforts of early

conservationists, the bison population

began a slow bounce back in 1905.

Recent interest in the animals as a

healthy, sustainable alternative to beef


has only quickened their resurgence.

Today, bison can be found at parks,

reserves and ranches around the

country, as well as on the plates of

adventurous eaters.

Joe Ricketts, entrepreneur and

philanthropist, has played a powerful role

in returning the meat to our menus. In

2003, Ricketts founded High Plains Bison,

a retailer of natural bison meat and the

official bison vendor at Chicago’s Wrigley

Field. At Ricketts’s quiet Wyoming ranch,

his bison graze in lumbering herds, heads

bowed, with shoulders as broad and

jagged as the mountains that stand in the

distance. Though much has changed since

the days of Lewis and Clark, one thing

remains the same: the undeniable thrill

at seeing these majestic creatures at

home in their natural habitat.

B I S O N I S B A C K26


Bison has a delicious, delicate flavor—lighter

and somewhat sweeter than beef—and an

impressive nutritional profile. Bison-industry

regulations require that bison raised for

their meat are never treated with artificial-

growth hormones, chemicals or unnecessary

antibiotics. Moreover, bison meat contains

far less fat, calories and cholesterol than

beef, but higher levels of iron, omega-3’s

and other nutrients.

BISON FACT


Because bison is so lean, its preparation

requires a little extra care to ensure it doesn’t

dry out. This means that steaks should never

be cooked beyond medium, and tougher cuts

(such as chuck, brisket and short ribs) are

best cooked low and slow for the most tender

and flavorful results.

BISON FACT

32

IN SEASON

SWEET SHADES

OF GOLD

My mom’s brother was an accountant by day and a mad scientist

by night. He and his son conducted chemistry experiments as

entertainment, and their small Oklahoma garage doubled as a sewing

room for my uncle’s most prized invention, a ventilated beekeeping

suit. He was relentlessly curious and endearingly quirky, and after

years of backyard beekeeping, he created and marketed the kind of bee

suit he himself wanted to wear: one that was durable, protective, and

breathable—even at the height of an Oklahoma summer.

When my uncle passed away unexpectedly,

my mother took over the bee suit business

and has been running it ever since. Thanks to

a gift from my uncle, I also grew up sharing a

backyard with some 30,000 Italian bees. And

though the yellow-streaked stunners have

been circling my family for a while now, it

wasn’t until I set out to write about them that

B Y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

I realized how little I knew of their secret,

mysterious lives—and the remarkable

effort involved in creating just a single

spoonful of honey.

Stock your pantry with different varieties,

and let the following recipes help guide you

to your favorites.

I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D

34 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D

35

HUMBLE WORKERS

Bees work hard. Really hard. To make just

one pound of honey, bees must visit some

2 million flowers. We depend on them for

one of our favorite sweeteners, but they are

also responsible for over $16 billion worth of

agricultural product through pollination. Our

supermarkets would look much different had

honeybees not appeared on the scene more

than 100 million years ago.



Raw comb honey, courtesy of Heritage Prairie Farm in Elburn, Illinois

A forager honeybee stores nectar in a special

region of its gut called a crop. When fully

loaded, the bee returns to the hive and

transfers the nectar to the aptly named

receiver bees that are waiting on the front

porch for delivery. The receiver bees take the

nectar, now mixed with enzymes from the

forager’s special stomach, to the honeycomb,

where they complete the process of

transforming nectar to honey.

FROM

NECTAR

TO

HONEY



View recipe on page 136 »

honey nougatine by geovanna salas

I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D


milk honey pudding by meg galus

40


It’s easy to forget that honey is a seasonal

food since it lasts indefinitely. But honey is

entirely dependent on local climate and the

nectar of blossoming flowers, which influence

the color, flavor and aroma of honey much like

the sea shapes an oyster or a barrel impacts

wine. As a general rule of thumb, light honeys

are faintly sweet (clover), amber honeys are

richly mellow (blueberry), and dark honeys

are bold and robust (buckwheat).

A Seasonal

TREAT


View recipe on page 138»

honey mandeleines by sarah kosokowski



honey vanilla ice cream by sarah kosokowski

44


milk chocolate honey ganache by sarah kosokowski

One of the simplest and easiest ways to

enjoy honey is on its own—scooped up

by the spoonful—or stirred into a hot cup

of tea. The sweet, molten gold can also

be spread over buttered toast, drizzled

atop oatmeal and baked into breads. Or it

can be used to more decadent effect, as

evidenced in these desserts.

endless

applications


46

JULIA &the new kid

S T O RY & R E C I P E S b y S A R A M O U LT O N

J U L I A & T H E N E W K I D | S T O R Y & R E C I P E S B Y S A R A M O U LT O N

photo by Bill Adler

47

Think you’ve read or seen everything there

is to know about Julia Child? Well, there’s

always something new. Sara Moulton looks

back on her long relationship with Julia

and how she will always be influenced

by Julia’s natural thirst for new ways,

ingredients and gadgets.


48


rhubarb potstickers


49

How did I dream up these

spring desserts, presenting

seasonal fruits in unusual

new recipes?

I’m inspired by many things and many people:

eating out, traveling, cookbooks, online

information, and my family and friends… not

to mention my own personal lifetime of taste

memories. But nothing and no one was more

important to me than Julia Child, the first

person who taught me how to develop a recipe.

As the chef/manager of a catering operation in

Cambridge, Massachusetts in 1979, I happened

to be in the right place at the right time. One

day I was peeling a lifetime’s supply of hard-

boiled eggs when I started chatting with Berit

Pratt, one of my teammates, about Julia’s method

of cooking hard-boiled eggs (which is not to boil

them). Berit mentioned that she was a volunteer

on Julia’s PBS TV show. I wondered if Julia might

ever need another volunteer (namely me), and

Berit said that they were just about to tape

another season and she’d ask Julia.

The next day Berit told me that she’d talked to

Julia, and that Julia wanted to hire me. I was

astonished that Julia Child would even consider

offering me a paid job without having met me.

So I trotted down to the corner pay phone and

dialed her right up. She picked up the phone

herself, said she’d heard all about me, and asked

if I “food-styled.” In truth, I didn’t really have

any professional experience in food styling, but

I figured, heck, as a chef, I certainly take care to

land my food attractively on a plate. So what did

I say? “Yes, Julia. I’m very good at food styling.”

And I got the job.


50

That was the beginning of the most important

relationship of my career. I worked with Julia

on that show, Julia Child and More Company,

and on the cookbook that was published

with it. Afterwards, I assisted her at various

industry events. In the mid-eighties, I became

Julia’s prep cook/food stylist whenever

she appeared on Good Morning America. We

remained friends until she died, and I was

lucky enough to host a special on her for the

Food Network in the last year of her life.

But back to JC and More Company, for which

I was supposedly the food stylist. I learned

a ton on the job, mostly from Julia, but also

from the executive chef, Marian Morash. I

thought we’d just sit at the feet of a master

and be told what to do, but that wasn’t the

way Julia worked. We were all in it together.

Recipe development was a group effort,

although Julia of course always had the

last word.

She was endlessly curious about everything

culinary, including all new gadgets. When

Carl Sontheimer was developing the original

Cuisinart in the late seventies, Julia made a

point of using it on air so that home cooks could

learn more about it. I don’t know who first put

a blow torch in Julia’s hands, but it became her

weapon of choice for crème brûlée. She was

reliably fascinated by new ingredients, too. The

first time any of us tasted a sugar snap pea

was when someone brought it to Julia on the

set of her show. The same was true of spaghetti

squash and string cheese.


51


ORANGE JELLIES


52

Julia was also on a mission to introduce her

viewers to all of the wonderful ingredients

to which she’d first been exposed in France,

including monkfish, rabbit, and celery root.

I’d never cooked with any of them before and

each one was a real eye-opener. Julia never

hesitated using hard-to-find ingredients as long

as they were worth it. She encouraged home

cooks to become activists in pursuit of better

eating. I can still see her looking dead into the

camera and saying, “Tell your produce man

you need leeks and shallots, and he must carry

them. Tell your fishmonger that monkfish is a

delicious alternative fish to the usual options.”

This isn’t to say that Julia was merely trendy.

She always tempered her curiosity with a

strict reliance on the scientific method. Here’s

how she boiled it all down in Julia Child and

More Company:

Don’t take things for granted.

Keep searching for better

techniques, new applications,

new ways of combining

flavors. Try things out.

One’s imagination can play

one false—the only real test

is to taste.

I took that advice to heart a generation ago and

it continues to guide me today. It happens to be

spring again, the season of renewal. Why not try

something new in the kitchen?


TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E 54

TA L LY HO !b y M O L LY S O R G E

55

Molly Sorge, an equine journalist from

Ruther Glen, Virginia and her horse, Elf,

often spend autumn mornings on a fox

hunt. Molly shares with us a story that

transports us into her world of hunts,

horses, hounds and a hunt breakfast.

Stephen Hamilton recently traveled

to Middleburg, Virginia to photograph

and experience first hand a traditional

fox hunt and all its trimmings. By his

photos you’ll see he didn’t go hungry.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N

56 TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E

Hunting mornings start early, drenched

in fog and spiked with light as the sun

makes its way through the trees. As I ready

my horse, I chat with friends, catching up

on all the news and sharing stories. After

swinging a leg over my horse and setting

off amidst the field of riders, I pause a

moment and close my eyes, smelling the

sharp, tangy sweat of my horse and the

smoky musk of the leaves underfoot.

The air has a piercing chill. We’ve stopped

at a check, which means we are waiting for

the hounds to pick up the scent of a fox. I

lay my hand quietly on my horse’s neck,

murmuring, seeking to calm him because

he lives to chase the pack. He chews on his

bit excitedly, creating a metallic music of

his own.

The 20 or so riders of the hunt field all

standing, waiting, listening. A friend hands

me a flask filled with liquid warmth and

courage. The huntsman in charge of the

pack of hounds urges them on with a

soft voice and short blows of his horn.

They’re looking for the fox.

57P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N

The huntsman in charge of

the pack of hounds urges them

on with a soft voice and short

blows of his horn.


The joyous voices of the hounds draw

us dashing through the woods and

leaping over stone walls, the thrill of the

chase giving wings to our horses’ feet.

59

A melodic cry splits the air—a hound has

caught the scent. The crisp fall air echoes

as the pack of hounds gives voice in tune

like a choir—not barking, but literally

singing their delight at giving chase. The

horses swing their heads high and pull

on the reins. We’re off, galloping over

the fields. My horse’s hooves beat out a

staccato rhythm as the wind whistles in

my ears and blood races through my veins.

The joyous voices of the hounds draw us

dashing through the woods and leaping

over stone walls, the thrill of the chase

giving wings to our horses’ feet.

The hunt flies by, hours of mad gallops

interspersed with quiet checks as the

hounds alternatively discover the fox’s

scent, then lose and have to search for

it again. The cry “Tally ho!” reverberates

across the field as a sleek, crafty fox darts

through the meadow, circling back on his

tracks in full view of all of us, but giving

the hounds the slip.



At the end of the day, the fox merrily

finds his way home, having given us

grand adventures, and we walk back

to the gathering of trucks and trailers,

sweaty, sated, and hungry. Sometimes

we eat right outside the trailers, but

today we will be at a beautiful home

in the hills. I untack my horse and

tie him to the trailer, leaving him to

contented hay-munching. It’s time for

the hunt breakfast.

As hungry as foxhunters are for thrills,

they’re just as ravenous for a fulfilling repast

after a hard gallop. One by one each of us

takes a turn scraping the mud off our boots

on the cast iron boot scraper. Then we clomp

loudly as we walk up the steps of our host’s

large frame farmhouse. The door swings open

and a gush of warm air touches our cheeks

and our fingers as we peel off damp leather

gloves. We rub our hands together to relieve

the numbness and in anticipation.

61

assorted artisan cheeses & fruit


63

Across from the stone fireplace an antique

table creaks under the platters of ham

biscuits—a must on any Virginia menu,

quiches, baked apples and a marvelous

cheese and fruit plate. It’s a feast fit for a

king, and our hosts have also included a

steaming hot stew and roasted vegetables

from their fields. The beguiling scent of

autumn and tradition surrounds us.

64

No hunt breakfast is complete without a

few sips from the flask; each foxhunter

has his or her own personal concoction for

the day. I am soon balancing a plate full of

decadent morsels on my lap, feeling the

adrenaline of the chase fade and a deep

sense on contentment flood over me.

View Josephine Orba’s recipe on page 143 »

boeuf bourguinonne

“That was quite a leap over that wall!

Did you need a parachute to land?”

jokes a fellow hunter. I wink at him

and ask how he’d been able to see me,

since his horse had been accelerating

rapidly, which looked unintentional.

TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E

65

Make biscuits according to your favorite

recipes. Heat and slice the ham. While still

warm, spread a split biscuit with whole

grain Dijon mustard, watercress and sliced

Virginia ham. Serve with cornichons.

Recipe courtesy of Josephine Orba

ham biscuits

View Michael Martin’s recipe on page 144 »

baking powder biscuits (cat head biscuits)



roasted vegetables


P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N 67

68

This breaking of bread is much like a family

dinner, with teasing and congratulations

flung about against the background of

camaraderie. The end-of-day banter lets us

relive each moment, laugh at each other,

and soak the experiences into our bones.

baked applesBaked apples are stuffed with chopped dates,

raisins, chopped pecans, butter, brown sugar,

and sweet spices (cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves).

TA L LY H O ! B Y M O L LY S O R G E


panna cotta with jelly

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N 69

The Virginia hunt breakfast is

actually served later in the day after

a full morning of fox hunting. By that

time, guests are ravenous and the

“breakfast” more closely resembles a

hearty feast. On our menu you’ll find

delightful autumn dishes from ham

to roasted vegetables to baked apples

to panna cotta. And of course, there

has to be some eggs.

hunt breakfast buffet menu

- assorted artisan cheeses and fruit

- classic quiche lorraine

- baked virginia ham and ham biscuits

- baking powder biscuits

- baked apples

- boeuf bourguinonne

- egg noodles, not shown

- roasted vegetables

- panna cotta with jelly

virginia hunt breakfast

71P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y J O S E P H I N E O R B A & M I C H A E L M A R T I N

72 T H E A R T O F T H E C H A M PA G N E C O R K P O P

THE ART of the

b y

K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

The pop of a champagne cork

often signals one thing, and one

thing only: the celebration has

begun and it’s time to let loose.

And yet, photographing a cork

pop is a different story entirely.

The shot needs to look natural,

but controlling and capturing a

CHAMPAGNE CORK POP

split-second of action requires

careful planning, precision

timing, and a complex set-up

from special effects guru Geoff

Binns-Calvey. Needless to say,

this isn’t your average bottle of

bubbly. Click the bullets to the

right for more on our methods.

73

»

»

»

THE FLYING CORKA thin, stiff wire holds the cork in

a fixed place a few inches from the

bottle opening, ensuring it doesn’t

budge (and that no one loses an eye!).

The wire eventually disappears behind

the spray of champagne so it isn’t

visible in the final shot.


THE DROPLETSTake one part water, one part glycerin,

mix them together…and spritz! The

drops of liquid look just like beads of

champagne, but they don’t evaporate

as quickly or trickle down the bottle.

THE SPRAYAlthough you can’t see it here,

the bottom of the champagne

bottle is connected to an elaborate

set of pipes and tubes. With the

push of a button, compressed air

sends champagne rushing through

the bottom of the bottle and up

through the neck, erupting in a

splash of bubbles and vapor.

T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S74

In this allegorical tale from famed humorist David Sedaris, an

innocent turkey has the last laugh over the selfish, greedy cow

who didn’t get him anything for Christmas. But as most of us

(hopefully) know, the holiday season is less about taking and

more about sharing, connection and generosity. That means if

you’re serving dinner for family and friends, you’re probably

going to plan for too much food. And that, of course, means

plenty of leftovers just waiting to be reinvented.

The Cow

Turkeyand the

b y D AV I D S E D A R I S

intro and captions by Kathryn O’Malley

7676

The cow was notoriously cheap. So it

surprised everyone when she voted, yes,

for the secret Santa program. It was the

horse’s suggestion and she backed it

immediately saying, “I choose the turkey.”

“That’s not exactly the way it works,”

the pig explained. “It’s secret, see? So

we each draw a name and keep it to

ourselves until Christmas morning.”

“Why do you have to be like that?” the

cow asked.

And the duck sighed, “Here we go.”

“First you ask me to give someone a

Christmas present,” the cow continued,

“And then you tell me it has to be done

your way. Like, oh, I have four legs so I’m

better than everyone else.”

“Don’t you have four legs?” the pig asked.

“All right, just because you have a curly

tail,” the cow said. The pig tried looking

behind him. But all he could see were his

sides.

“Is it curly, curly?” he asked the rooster,

“Or curly, kinky?”

“The point is that I’m a little tired of being

pushed around,” the cow said. “I think a lot

of us are.” This was her all over. So rather

than spending the next week listening to

her complain, it was decided that the cow

would give to the turkey and that everyone

else would keep their name a secret.

There were, of course, no shops in the

barnyard, which was a shame as all of

the animals had money—coins mainly,

dropped by the farmer and his children as

they went about their chores. The cow once

had close to $3 and gave it to a calf the

farmer planned on taking into town.

T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S

7777

“I want you to buy me a knapsack,”

she told him, “Just like the one that the

farmer’s daughter has, only bigger and

blue instead of green. Can you remember

that?” The calf had tucked the money

into his cheek before being led out of the

barn. “And wouldn’t you know it,” the

cow later complained, “Isn’t it just my

luck that he never came back?”

She’d spent the first few days of his

absence in a constant, almost giddy,

state of anticipation. Watching the barn

door, listening for the sound of the truck,

waiting for that knapsack, something

that would belong only to her. When it no

longer made sense to hope, she turned

to self-pity then rage. The calf had taken

advantage of her, had spent her precious

money on a bus ticket and boarded

thinking, so long, sucker.

It was a consolation then to overhear

the farmer talking to his wife and learn

that taking an animal into town was a

euphemism for hitting him in the head

with an electric hammer. So long, sucker.


7878

Milking put the cow in close proximity to

humans, much closer than any of the other

animals. And she learned a lot by keeping

her ears open—local gossip, the rising cost

of fuel oil, and countless little things, the

menu for Christmas dinner, for instance.

The family had spent Thanksgiving visiting

the farmer’s mother in her retirement

home and had eaten what tasted like

potato chips soaked in chicken fat. Now

they were going to make up for it. “Big

time,” the farmer’s wife said. And with all

the trimmings.


80

The turkey didn’t know that he would

be killed on Christmas Eve. No one did,

except for the cow. That’s why she’d

specifically chosen his name for the

secret Santa program. It got her off the

hook and made it more fun to watch his

pointless, fidgety enthusiasm.

“You’ll never in a million years guess

what I got you,” she said to him a day

after the names were drawn.

“Is it a bath mat?” the turkey asked. He’d

seen one hanging on the clothesline and

was obsessed with it for some reason.

“It’s a towel for the floor,” he kept telling

everyone. “I mean really, isn’t that just the

greatest idea you ever heard in your life?”

“Oh, this is a lot better than a bath mat,”

the cow said, chuckling as the turkey

sputtered, “No way,” and “What could

possibly be better than a bath mat?”

“You’ll see come Christmas morning,”

she told him.


View recipe by John-Gustin Birkitt on page 147 »

twice baked potatoes


TWICE BAKED POTATOES

This isn’t your mother’s baked

potato. Chef John-Gustin Birkitt

incorporates everything good into

these stellar, twice-baked spuds:

crème fraîche, ricotta, eggs, bacon

and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

8282

NEW MEXICAN GREEN CHILE TURKEY

Justin Brunson drew on flavors like chile,

cumin and lime to create this Southwestern

spin on turkey, perfect for nestling into

warm tortillas and topping with cheddar,

sour cream and cilantro.


View recipe by Justin Brunson on page 148 »

new mexico green chile turkey


Most of the animals were giving food

as their secret Santa gift. No one came

out and actually said it, but the cow had

noticed them setting a little aside. Not

just scraps, but the best parts—oats from

the horse, thick crusts of bread from

the pig. Even the rooster—who was the

biggest glutton of all—had managed to

sacrifice and had stockpiled a fistful of

grain behind an empty gas can in the far

corner of the barn.

He and the others were surely hungry,

yet none of them complained about it.

And this bothered the cow more than

anything. How could they be so corny? She

looked at the pig who sat smiling in his pen

and then at the turkey who’d hung a sprig

of mistletoe from the end of his waddle

and was waltzing across the floor saying,

“Any takers?” Even to other guys. It was his

cheerfulness that irritated her the most.

And so, on the morning of Christmas Eve

she pulled him aside for a little talk about

the future.

“The farmer will be cutting your head

off at around noon,” she said. “His son

wanted him to use a chainsaw, but he’s a

traditionalist so we’ll probably be sticking

with the axe.” The turkey laughed, thinking

it was a joke. But then he saw the pleasure

in the cow’s face and knew that she was

telling the truth.

“How long have you known?” he asked.

“A few weeks,” the cow told him. “I meant

to tell you earlier, but what with all the

excitement, I guess I forgot.”

“Kill me and eat me?” The cow nodded. The

turkey removed the mistletoe from the end

of his waddle. “Well, golly,” he said, “Don’t I

feel stupid?”

Not wanting to spoil anyone’s Christmas,

the turkey announced that he would be

spending the holiday with relatives, “The

wild side of the family,” he said, “Just flew in

last night from Kentucky.”

When noon arrived and the farmer showed

up, he followed him out of the barn without

complaint saying, “So long everyone,” and

“See you in a few days.” They all waved

goodbye except for the cow, who lowered

her head toward her empty trough. She

was just thinking that a little extra food

might be nice when a horrible thought

occurred to her.

The rooster was standing in the doorway

and she almost trampled him on her

way outside shouting, “Wait, come back.

Whose name did you draw?”

“Say, what?” the turkey said.

“I said, whose name did you get?

Who’s supposed to receive your

secret Santa present?”

“You’ll see,” the turkey said, his voice

a little song that hung in the air long

after he disappeared.

84 T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S


THANKSGIVING PUDDING

Chef Tim Havidic is used to pushing

the boundaries at Chicago’s

renowned restaurant iNG—short

for “imagining new gastronomy.”

But when it comes to Thanksgiving

comfort food, his approach is a bit

more relaxed; all you need are a

few simple ingredients to totally

transform your leftover turkey and

dinner rolls.

View recipe by Tim Havidic on page 149 »

thanksgiving pudding

giuseppe tentori


C H E Fb y K AT E B E R N O T

P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : G I U S E P P E T E N T O R I86

87

An obsession with seasonal ingredients,

Italian technique, and fresh seafood has

earned him a Michelin star and the title

of Food & Wine’s Best New Chef 2008.

But it’s his warm hospitality that makes

each meal at his restaurants especially

memorable. We invited Sarah Gruene-

berg, the subject of last issue’s “Portrait

of a Chef”, to submit the questions she’s

been dying to ask Giuseppe…. and forced

him to answer them.

what’s your most embarrassing kitchen moment?

My most embarrassing moment happened

when I was working at Charlie Trotter’s in

1998. I was working the vegetable station,

and I was using white truffles. I just put

two pieces of shaved white truffle on a dish,

because they’re very expensive. I thought I

was doing the guy a favor. And I remember

Charlie yelling at me: “Are you Italian or

what?” I learned that if you’re going to use

something, you better really use it.

what ingredient do you cook with that would surprise people?

Licorice. At BOKA I used to do short ribs

braised in licorice—not even fennel, just

regular black licorice.

what’s the secret ingredient in your legendary clam chowder?

Really, Sarah? Okay. It’s bacon and

cornstarch.

when mentoring, what’s the trait you most look for in a young cook?

Their care and passion. The other night, I

had to yell at one of my guys on the line

because he put a dish up for the server and

he knew it wasn’t cooked right. I pulled

him aside and explained to him, it’s very

important that you do this right, because at

the end of the day, you have to be proud of

what you do. And he understood that.

if you were going to open another restaurant, what would the concept be?

An Italian steakhouse. That’s my dream.


From a childhood spent on his

grandmother’s farm in Italy to a

career at the helm of Chicago’s

BOKA and GT Fish & Oyster,

Giuseppe Tentori has always

let his passions guide him.

AT GT Fish & Oyster, Giuseppe Tentori

serves seasonal King Crab legs with clarified

butter and aromatic citrus wedges.

8888

Captions by Bryan Olsen and Todd Womack of the amazing web series The Key of Awesome. Find it at www.youtube.com/barelypolitical.

FOOD PORN

F O O D P O R N B Y T O D D W O M A C K & B R YA N O L S E N

8989

RAW Chicken

Trent Reznor’s Thanksgiving turkey, pictured here, was also featured in the film Saw 3.


90

Oh, god. This place is a total sausage fest.

RING BOLOGNA


92 F O O D P O R N B Y T O D D W O M A C K & B R YA N O L S E N

93

Enough with the tantalizing pictures! Can someone develop a machine which teleports that shit to the empty plate I have sitting in front of me already?? I mean, mmm, wow, those looks good.

BUTTERED Rolls


94

CREAMED CORN


95

This is the hottest soft corn food porn we’ve ever seen.


96

Prosciutto Mozzarella

Sweet. This is a total FMS. (Folded Meat Sanctuary )


98

Sashimi

Sally sells sashimi by the seashore, so send seven sheckles to Sally C. Shore for a sample.


100

POMEGRANATE


101

Oh, pomegranate, so intensely flavorful. If it did not take an entire sweatshop’s worth of work to separate the seeds from the good stuff, I would you eat you every day. Unless of course on that day I am wearing my white pants.


102


CHEFb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y

Rodelio Aglibot

102 P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F R O D E L I O A G L I B O T

103

do you have a culinary mentor and, if so, how has that person influenced you as a chef?My parents have both been instrumental in developing my style

and palate. My father was a cook in the U.S. Navy and he taught

me at a young age how to handle a knife and get around in the

kitchen. My mother is also an amazing cook. She taught me that

to cook for someone else is a gift—sort of like an edible kiss or an

“I love you.”

how would you describe your cooking philosophy?I draw a lot of inspiration from the Buddhist monastery, where

there is a person responsible for the cooking and nourishment

of the monks known as the tenzo (which translates to “heavenly

monk”). The tenzo accepts food and products with gratitude

and respect, nothing is ever wasted (even the water to wash rice

is used to water plants) and nothing is ignored. He cooks with

intention and is connected to each ingredient, and his hands—not

a machine—are used to prepare every dish.

what has been your best street food experience?Too many to share, but the one that stands out most was in

Cambodia on my visit to Angkor Wat in 2006. It was dawn and 100

degrees out with humidity to match. My friends (also chefs) and

I were about to start our hike through the temples but decided to

eat first.

We were warned the evening before to carry small bills, since the

kids from the village tend to ask for money or sell trinkets as their

way to help their families. So, we obliged and took out 100 one-

dollar bills. As we approached the food stalls, we were mauled by

some 30 to 40 kids asking for money. But, instead of handing out

cash, we decided to feed them. We approached a street vendor,

who let us take over his makeshift kitchen of propane burners,

warped sauté pans and tray of seasonings. And we killed it. I made

eggs scrambled with noodles and vegetables, enough to feed the

whole crowd. Definitely a great day.

where is your dream food location? Or, where would you go if you had one week to eat whatever you wanted?I’ve been fortunate to travel the world and have visited over 50

countries and counting—eating, learning and most of all living.

More travel to South America is in my near future, but quite

frankly, anywhere new is a dream location.

tell us about your new restaurant, Yum Cha. What was your inspiration?I’ve always loved going out for dim sum and, as a chef, have

been inspired many times by my experiences. So very I’m excited

to bring a refreshing and “food buddha” take on dim sum and

Cantonese cuisine.

Aglibot’s signature dessert Avocado Mousse.


Born in the Philippines and raised in Hawaii,

chef Rodelio Aglibot, aka “The Food Buddha,”

has opened over 40 restaurants across the

country, including Chicago’s acclaimed Earth +

Ocean and the stylish hotspot Sunda. Now, he’s

putting his passion for flavor and appetite for

innovation toward yet another delicious project:

a dim sum restaurant called Yum Cha, slated to

open early this April in Lakeshore East. We hear

the menu will offer an eclectic mix of traditional

Cantonese dishes—like sweet and sour pork and

shrimp with lobster sauce—in addition to more

playful, modern twists—such as coconut-stuffed

fried taro balls and crispy pumpkin fries with

salted duck egg.

Hungry for more details? Dive into Aglibot’s interview led by our

previously featured chef, Lars Kronmark.

M U S TA R D VA L L E Y104

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y R U T H S I E G E L 105

M U S T A R D VA L L E Y

While the grapevines sleep and the days gradually become

filled with more sunlight, the vineyards of Napa unfurl a

blanket of lush greens and golden yellows. It’s early spring,

and it’s mustard season in the Valley.

b y K AT E B E R N O T

The Biblical parable of the mustard seed speaks to the

enormous power of one of the world’s smallest seeds.

From a dot the size of a pinprick, a mustard plant can

grow nearly nine feet tall, cascading down the mountains

and hills of Napa in a blaze of brilliant yellow. But no one

understands the potential of the mustard plant like Napa’s

winemakers, who rely on the black mustard plant for much

more than just its chartreuse blooms.

Three months after the last of the

autumn’s rains, long after the last

grapes have been plucked from the

vines, the first shoots of mustard spring

from between the rows of brittle, empty

grape branches. Winemakers know

that these plants are as crucial to their

grapes’ health as proper rainfall or rich

soil; they help the grapevines absorb

nutrients and water, repel damaging

nematodes, and prevent soil erosion.

While the grapevines slumber, the

unseen roots of the mustard plants

work quietly beneath the earth.

106 M U S TA R D VA L L E Y

107

While the grapevines

slumber, the unseen

roots of the mustard

plants work quietly

beneath the earth.

California vineyards began to plant mustard

as a cover crop at the turn of the 20th

century, but the plant has an even longer

history in The Golden State. Locals tell the

story of Father Junipero Serra, a Spanish

priest who came to the coast in the 19th

century as a missionary. As he traveled

north across the sparsely populated

expanse, he scattered Spanish mustard

seeds behind him on the path. When

the Franciscan made his return trip the

following year, he needed no map, simply

following the bright swath of the blooming

mustard flowers. (continued on page 22)

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y R U T H S I E G E L

108

Most of you don’t think

about making your own

mustard from scratch.

Why not? It’s actually easy

if you are willing to wait

a couple days. The main

ingredients are mustard

seeds or powder and liquid

(water, beer, wine, cider,

vinegar). You let that soak

for a day or two, then add

your seasonings. Done.

mustard seedsThere are three primary types of

whole-grain mustard seeds: yellow/

white is the mildest and used mainly

in American-style mustards and for

pickling; brown, which is zestier and

used in European-style mustards, for

pickling, and in Indian cooking; and

black, which is also used in Indian

food. (Black mustards seeds are

interchangeable with brown.)

whole-grain beer mustard (makes 16 oz.)

1/2 cup brown or black mustard seeds,

1/4 cup yellow mustard seeds, 3/4 cup

dark beer, 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar,

2 tablespoons packed brown sugar,

1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

M U S TA R D VA L L E Y

Click to view complete recipe »

mustard powderIs nothing more than ground mustard

seeds. The most common brand is

Colman’s and is a blend of brown

and white seeds.

dijon-style mustard (makes 10 oz.)

2 cups dry white wine (such as Sauvignon

Blanc or Chablis), 1 large onion, finely

chopped, 2 cloves garlic, minced, 4 ounces

mustard powder, 2 tablespoons honey,

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

109



110

Now, those blooms guide not Spanish priests but tourists and photographers,

who flock to wine country in January, February, and March to witness the hills’

transformation. For vineyards, the mustards’ annual arrival is a sure portent

of spring, enriching the soil before the Merlot and Malbec vines snap to life for

another season. The mustards’ deep roots cling to the earth, preventing soil

erosion while improving water penetration.


111

duck breast salad with mustard vinaigrette(makes 2 servings)

mustard vinaigrette3 tablespoons minced shallots (about 2 medium shallots),

2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon or whole-grain mustard,

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons balsamic

vinegar, 1 clove garlic, minced, 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive

oil, sea salt, black pepper

salad1 tablespoon white vinegar, 2 quail eggs, 4 cups baby

spinach, 1 baby yellow beet, peeled and very thinly sliced,

8 ounces smoked duck breast, cut into bite-size pieces




For organic and biodynamic winemakers especially, mustard is worth

its weight in gold. The plants give nitrogen and other beneficial

nutrients back to the soil, reducing the need for chemically-based fertilizers.

The plants’ leaves and flowers also create an Edenic refuge for birds and insects

that eat harmful species among the grapes. In a seemingly wild burst of vine

and flower, an entire symbiotic ecosystem silently pulses, one plant supporting

the other, each playing a natural role in a delicate relationship.

113

A platter of cured meats, tiny spring

vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and capers

is the quintessential companion to just

about any type of mustard.



Of course, most people have no opportunity

to witness this silent cooperation. Mustard

reaches them in its edible form: the seeds left

whole or crushed, bruised, or ground into a

paste that adds a familiar tangy flavor.

More than likely, this mustard did not

come from a vineyard, but it could

have come from the same plant, the

Brassica nigra. The raw seeds come

to life with just the addition of salt,

vinegar, and sugar, lending a spicy

and sour counterpoint to richer

meat dishes, and subtly coaxing the

nuances out of lighter vegetables

when whisked into vinaigrette.

115P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y R U T H S I E G E L

mustard & honey pork tenderloin(makes 3 to 4 servings)

1 pound pork tenderloin, 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, 2 1/2 tablespoons honey,

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, fresh rosemary sprigs


116

two mustard cornish hen(makes 2 servings)

2 small lemons, 1 Cornish hen (about 1 1/2 pounds), 3 tablespoons

apricot preserves, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon whole-

grain mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, black pepper


facts for cooks

1. Cooking mustard significantly

reduces its pungency.

2. Mustard adds flavor to dishes

without adding fat or sugar.

3. Mustard seeds can also be fried or

toasted and added as a garnish.

4. All parts of the mustard plant are

edible, not just the seeds. Mustard

greens are exceptionally tasty.


117P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | R E C I P E S B Y R U T H S I E G E L

STONE SOUP118 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G

glamgatingb y

J U D I T H M A R A


Glamgating is what happens when

you add a dash of glamour to your

traditional tailgate—with sensational

results. It is also the latest twist on

our Stone Soup feature, a semi-regular

series based on the iconic tale of

villagers coming together to create a

grand meal that feeds the entire town.

S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G120

Rain and chilly weather was predicted,

but the Midwest likes its curveballs: The

sun came piercing through the skyline

at the very last minute, and it turned out

to be the kind of autumn afternoon that

Chicagoans can’t resist. It was a great day

for sporting newbies and football fans alike

to mingle together and enjoy the outdoors.

Because it’s tailgating season, a

“glamgating” party seemed to be the

perfect way to mix things up at our latest

Stone Soup gathering. Of course, it took

some planning to get that “glam” part

in place—we wanted to make sure this

tailgate was unlike anything our guests

had ever experienced. To that end, all

the stops were pulled: a gleaming new

Airsteam trailer; a roasted pig infused with

aged maple syrup; an amazing guest list

including eight of Chicago’s finest chefs;

over twenty side dishes and desserts

contributed by the chefs and other guests;

hot apple cider spiked with Buffalo Trace

Bourbon; and a surprise guest of honor––

the venerable TV anchor, Bill Kurtis.


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P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | G L A M G A I T I N G P O R T R A I T S B Y J U S T I N PA R I S

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S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G124


Friends of WH? came from far and near.

First to arrive was Tim Burton of Burton’s

Maplewood Farm. Tim came all the way

from Medora, Indiana, bearing the gift

of a 45-pound pig and his La Caja China

(pronounced la caha cheena) pig roaster.

With a three-hour head start on smoking

the pig, Tim filled the parking lot with the

warm, smoky scent of maple and pork.

Meanwhile, Bryan Kendall of Airstream

of Chicago in Joliet, Illinois, hitched up a

new International Serenity RV trailer—a

gorgeous silver backdrop for the feast that

was about to unfold.

126

We love to see the magic that happens

when chefs, food ambassadors and regular

cooks contribute a dish to the same table.

As always, the results were astonishing:

bulgur wheat and Brussels sprouts salads,

fresh spinach and artichoke dip, hot beef

and vegetable stews, red wine caramel

glazed apples, oatmeal cookies, banana

bread, baklava and a glorious apple,

persimmon and cranberry crisp. Slowly, a

fall food theme emerged that had nothing

to do with typical football fare.

S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G

128 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G

Introductions were made as soon as dishes

were handed off and cocktails were poured.

Chefs enjoyed reconnecting with other

chefs they don’t see very often. Everyone

was happy to see chef Rodelio Aglibot (TLC,

Food Buddha) and congratulate him on his

newest restaurant. It was also fun to see

chef Dale Levitski (Top Chef alum) the day

after he returned from a cooking-filled

summer in Montana. Plus, he brought the

most gorgeous vegetable market salad ever

seen in a concrete parking lot.


132

Chef Ina Pinkney (Ina’s, Taste Memories)

reigned over the crowd and treated

everyone to pumpkin cheesecake and

heirloom tomato bruschetta. New dad,

chef Giuseppe Tentori (GT Fish & Oyster,

BOKA), went super-casual with a creamy

and very cheesy shrimp mac and cheese

that appealed to the child in all of us. Chef

Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef) outdid

himself with his grandmother’s German

potato salad.


134

But the real showstopper—even in the

eyes of the seasoned professionals—was

the moment when Tim Burton and his

son pulled the golden, glistening whole

pig from its roasting box and carried it

ceremoniously to the carving table. The

pig was moist and juicy, the salted meat

blending flawlessly with sweet maple syrup.

Thirty pounds of tender pork disappeared

fast––snout, cheeks, ears and all.

We can’t do it every year—and at some

point we’ll have to settle for beer and

chicken wings—but that’s exactly what

made this glamgate so special.


135135

GLAMGATING MENU WHOLE ROAST PIG

Tim Burton (Burton’s Maplewood Farms)

CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES

Sam Jorden (graphic designer)

MARKET VEGETABLE SALAD

Chef Dale Levitski

(Sprout, Frog & Tail, Top Chef runner up)

BULGUR WHEAT SALAD

Carol Hojem Mackey

(The Suburban Epicurean, food editor Living60010)

BUFFALO TRACE HOT CIDER

Ashley Mastroianni (Buffalo Trace Bourbon)

and Taylor Ortiz

GERMAN POTATO SALAD

RED WINE CARAMEL GLAZED APPLES

Chef Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef)

OATMEAL COOKIES

Chrissie Mena (founder/president of Living60010)

HEIRLOOM TOMATO BRUSCHETTA

PUMPKIN CHEESECAKES

Ina Pinkney (Ina’s Restaurant, Taste Memories)

MINI BANANA BREADS

Meg Saherlie (owner of In Stitches)

MAC AND CHEESE WITH SHRIMP

Chef Giuseppe Tentori (BOKA, GT Fish & Oyster)

BEEF STEW & VEGETABLE STEW

Doug Wilson (foodie groupie and HR professional)

SPINACH AND ARTICHOKE DIP

BRUSSELS SPROUT SALAD

APPLE PERSIMMON AND CRANBERRY CRISP

The Who’s Hungry? Kitchens


136

Combine sugar and honey in a heavy sauce pot and bring

to a boil, stirring constantly. Stop stirring and bring syrup

to 360°F. Remove from heat and stir in butter and nuts.

Scrape the mixture onto baking sheet lined with lightly oiled

parchment paper. Spread evenly with an oiled spatula, or

press into the pan with a lightly oiled piece of foil. Be careful,

it’s hot! Let cool until set. Chop coarsely.

ingredients:

· 2/3 cup sugar

· 1/2 cup honey

· 1 tablespoon butter

· 1 cup toasted almonds or pistachios

honey nougatine

by Geovanna Salas, Pastry Chef at Table Fifty-Two

137137R E C I P E I N D E X

To bloom gelatin: Completely submerge gelatin sheets in ice water and wait

until they soften, about 5 minutes.

Bring the cream, honey and milk powder to a boil over high heat. Using a

whisk, slowly temper the hot liquid into the egg yolks, making sure not to

curdle the yolks in the process. Add to the cream mixture and cook until it

reaches 82°C or nappe, when the liquid is thick enough that when you run

your finger down the back of the spatula it holds a line.

Remove from heat and strain the mixture into an ice bath (an empty bowl

set over a bowl of ice). Add the bloomed gelatin after about a minute, and

whisk. Chill in the fridge until set.

Mix lightly and portion into cups.

ingredients:

· Egg yolks | 120g

· Local raw honey | 100g

· Cream | 500g

· Nonfat milk powder | 50g

· Gelatin sheets | 8g

milk honey pudding

by Meg Galus, Executive Pastry Chef at Park Hyatt Chicago and NoMI restaurant

138

Cream butter, sugars and honey until light and fluffy. Add

eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Mix in all sifted dry

ingredients until just combined. Pipe into Madeleine molds

and freeze until ready to bake. Bake at 325°F for 10 minutes,

turn, then bake 4 more minutes until golden brown. Unmold

and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

ingredients:

· Butter | 1440g

· Sugar | 1200g

· Light brown sugar | 160g

· Honey | 240g

· Salt | 16g

· Eggs | 1600g

· Cake flour | 720g

· All-purpose flour | 720g

· Baking powder | 40g

honey madeleines

by Sarah Kosokowski, Corporate Pastry Chef at Valrhona, Inc, Eastern Region

R E C I P E I N D E X


Combine milk, cream, vanilla extract, vanilla bean, and honey in a heavy

saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Combine sugar, glucose powder, milk

powder, salt and stabilizer in a mixing bowl. Add yolks to the powdery mixture

and temper into hot liquid. Over medium heat and stirring frequently with a

spatula, cook to nappe or until mixture thickens enough that when you run your

finger down the back of the spatula it holds a line. Remove from heat and whisk

in butter until melted. Strain with a fine strainer to catch any bits. Allow to chill.

*For orange ginger ice cream, to 3 liters of honey vanilla ice cream base, add:

· 1 teaspoon orange extract

· Ginger puree | 50g

· Fabbri mandarin delipaste | 170g

ingredients:

· Milk | 2700g

· Cream | 1430g

· Vanilla extract | 25g

· Vanilla beans | 3ea.

· Honey | 550g

· Sugar | 200g

· Glucose powder | 310g

· Milk powder | 170g

· Salt | 8g

· Stabilizer | 12g

· Egg yolks | 840g

· Butter | 225g

honey vanilla ice cream


140

Boil cream, vanilla, and honey in a heavy saucepan over

medium-high heat. Remove from heat and pour over milk

chocolate and mix until smooth. Add softened butter and

burr ??? and mix again until smooth. Pour into two ½ sheet

pans lined with silpat or aluminum foil, shiny side up; let set

overnight before cutting into small pieces.

ingredients:

· 1 cup sliced rhubarb

· Cream | 1400g

· Vanilla bean | 1 ea.

· Honey | 200g

· Milk chocolate | 2kg

· Butter, room temperature | 400g

milk chocolate honey ganache




Toss the rhubarb with the sugar and the orange rind in a medium bowl and let stand for 30

minutes. Drain and save the liquid separately from the rhubarb.

Spread out the wonton wrappers on a work surface. Place a small mound of the rhubarb in

the center of each wrapper. Brush the edges of each wrapper with water; lift two opposite

corners of each wrapper and press together above the center of the mound of rhubarb; bring

the other two opposite sides up and press them together. You should have shaped the wonton

into a little pyramid with the mound of rhubarb inside. Pinch the wrappers together very

tightly at the seams to make sure they are well sealed.

Heat the oil and butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until bubbly, then arrange

the pot stickers, seam sides up, in the skillet. Cook them 2 to 3 minutes or until the bottoms

are pale golden. Add 1/3 cup water, reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet with a lid, and

cook 5 to 6 minutes, adding more water if necessary to cook the wonton wrappers through.

Remove the lid and continue to cook until the bottoms of the pot stickers are crisp and golden.

Gently loosen the pot stickers, and lift them out onto a serving plate. Stir 1/4 cup water into

the reserved juice. Add the mixture to the skillet, bring it to a boil scraping up the brown bits

at the bottom of the pan, and drizzle the liquid over the pot stickers. Serve hot with a spoonful

of sweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if desired.

ingredients:

· 1 cup sliced rhubarb

· 3 tablespoons sugar

· 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated orange rind

· 12 wonton wrappers (3 ½ by 3-inches)

· 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil

· 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter

· sweetened whipped cream or

vanilla ice cream (optional)

Serves 4

rhubarb potstickers

by Sara Moulton

142

Cut the oranges in half crosswise and squeeze out the juice. Strain and measure. You

should have about 1 ¾ cups juice. Add more juice if you have less than this amount

and remove juice if you have more. Carefully scrap out and discard the pulp from the

navel oranges to form six half shells.

In a small saucepan combine 1/4 cup of the juice with the gelatin and set it aside

for 5 minutes to dissolve the gelatin. Heat the mixture over low heat, stirring

occasionally, until the gelatin is dissolved and the mixture is clear, 3 to 4 minutes.

Whisk in the remaining juice and the vodka, if using. Transfer the liquid to a

measuring cup or small pitcher so it is easy to pour.

Arrange the orange shells, cut side up, in muffin tins or ramekins and pour the

mixture half way up the side of each shell. Put the muffin tin holding the shells in

the fridge and finish filling them, carefully pouring the remaining orange mixture all

the way up to the top of each shell. (Note: depending on how large the navel oranges

were, you will be able to fill 5 or 6 shells.) Cover the filled shells with plastic wrap and

chill until firm, at least 4 hours and preferably overnight. Cut each half in 3 wedges

before serving.

ingredients:

· 3 navel oranges

· 2 juice oranges

· 1 envelope unflavored gelatin

· 1 ½ ounces vodka (optional)

serves 6

orange jellies

by Sara Moulton


Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Pat beef dry. On the top of the stove, brown the meat

in a little olive oil in a large skillet. Place into heavy

casserole dish and season with salt and pepper. Cook

onions and carrots in same pan until lightly browned.

Add the garlic and cook a few seconds and add the

vegetables to the meat. Deglaze sauté pan with wine,

then pour wine and stock over meat and braise in

slow oven for 2 - 3 hours.

While meat is braising, sauté mushrooms in a little

butter, set aside.

After the meat is tender, remove from oven add the

Beurre Manié to the pot. Stir well and return to oven.

Add mushrooms and heat through. Check seasoning.

Stir in fresh thyme and parsley.

ingredients:

· olive oil

· 4 - 5 pounds beef (top sirloin or top round) trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes.

· 4 carrots, peeled and thickly sliced

· 2 cloves of garlic minced (optional)

· 1 bag frozen white pearl onions

· 1 - 2 cups beef stock

· 2 - 3 cups red wine

· 1 pound button mushrooms, cleaned, cut in half if they are large

· salt, pepper

· Beurre Manié (equal parts flour mixed with soft butter,

added to thicken the sauce, you’ll need 1- 2 tablespoons)

· Chopped fresh thyme and parsley

makes 16 servings

boeuf bourguinonne

by Josephine Orba

144 R E C I P E I N D E X

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. In a large bowl combine

flour, baking powder and salt. Using fork, cut shortening

into flour until consistency of coarse meal. Add milk; stir

with fork until mixture leaves sides of bowl and forms a

soft, moist dough.

On floured surface, toss lightly until no longer sticky. Roll

out to 1/2 inch thick, and cut with 2-inch round, floured

cutter. Place on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 8 to 12

minutes or until light golden brown. Makes about 12 to

15 biscuits. ingredients for brine:

· 2 1/4 cups all purpose flour

· 3 teaspoons baking powder

· 1/2 teaspoon salt

· 1/2 cup shortening

· 1 cup milk

baking powder biscuits (cat head biscuits)

by Michael Martin

Michael Martin is an owner/rider/trainer from Franklin, TN. He has fox hunted for years in Virginia and Pennsylvania. They call these Cat Head Biscuits “Cause they’re as big as a cat’s head”.

makes 12-15 biscuits


Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Scrub carrots and parsnips

(cut into 2-inch pieces if large). Slice red onion in rings.

Peel and slice sweet potato into wedges. Trim Brussels

sprouts and cut in half. Peel garlic cloves and toss all

vegetables in generous amount of olive oil. Add salt and

fresh ground pepper to taste.

Spread onto a large baking sheet and roast, tuning

occasionally until cooked and browned, about 45

minutes. Sprinkle with fresh chopped parsley.

ingredients:

· 3 parsnips

· 6 carrots

· 1 red onion

· 1 large sweet potato

· 1 pound Brussels sprouts

· 3 cloves garlic

· olive oil, salt, pepper, fresh chopped parsley

makes 16 servings

roasted vegetables

by Josephine Orba


for the panna cottaSprinkle gelatin onto 1/2 cup cream to soften. Heat 2 cups

of cream with 1/2 cup sugar –do not boil. Combine hot

cream and cream with gelatin and cream. Add vanilla

and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Pour into small, clear

serving containers. Cool and refrigerate until set.

for the jellyMake raspberry Jello or add 1 1/2 - 2 teaspoons gelatin to

2 cups fruit juice. Allow to cool but not set. Place single

raspberry on surface of set cream and pour raspberry

Jello or gelatin over it. Return to fridge to set.

ingredients for brine:

· 2 1/2 cups heavy cream

· 2 teaspoons gelatin

· 1/2 cup sugar

· 1 teaspoon vanilla

· 2 cups raspberry jello or fruit juice mixed with gelatin

· fresh raspberries

panna cotta with jelly

by Josephine Orba


ingredients:

· 6 large Russet baking potatoes

· 1/4 cup crème fraîche

· 1/2 cup ricotta cheese

· 2 egg yolks

· 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

· 2 teaspoons garlic salt

· 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

· Juice of half a lemon

makes 6Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wash potatoes

well and pierce several times with a fork.

Season with salt and freshly ground black

pepper. Wrap in foil and place directly onto

oven rack for approximately 1 hour. When

potatoes are cooked through, you should be

able to easily pass a pairing knife into the

centers. Cut the top third off the potatoes,

scooping out approximately 80% of the

“flesh” and set aside. You should now have

canoe-shaped potato shells. Pass potato

flesh through a food mill into a mixing bowl.

Add all ingredients from the crème fraîche

to the lemon juice. Fold together until well

combined but without over-mixing. Reserve

one third of mixture and place in piping

twice baked potatoes

by John-Gustin Birkitt, The French Hound Chef and Owner

garniture:

· 6 scallions, sliced

· 6 strips of bacon, cooked and chopped

· 2 ounces grated cheddar cheese, divided

· 1 tablespoon lemon confit, minced

· 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

· 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

bag fitted with a large star tip. Add all

remaining ingredients: bacon, cheddar

(reserving half an ounce), scallions,

tarragon, lemon confit & garlic salt. Fold to

combine.

Using a spoon, fill each cavity of potato

shells a little past full. Now using the

piping bag with reserved potato mixture,

pipe the top of each potato. Sprinkle

reserved grated cheddar cheese on top of

each potato.

Baked stuffed potatoes for 15-18 minutes

or until a thermometer inserted into the

center reaches 155 degrees. Garnish with a

sprinkle of chives.


ingredients:

· 1 ½ pounds New Mexico green chile peppers, roasted, peeled,

seeded and diced

· 2 tablespoons grape seed oil or other clean-flavored cooking oil

· 4 pounds leftover turkey meat (dark meat is preferable)

· 3 cups yellow onion, peeled and diced

· 8 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced

· 2 tablespoons ancho or other dried chile powder

· 1½ tablespoons ground cumin

· 12 ounces green tomatillos, husks removed and finely diced

· 4 cups turkey or low-sodium chicken broth

· 1 cup canned tomatoes, drained

· 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

makes 8

Shred turkey into bite-sized pieces. Pour the oil in a

large, heavy pot; over medium heat sweat the garlic

and onions until translucent. Add the tomatillos

and continue to cook an additional 5 minutes before

adding all remaining ingredients except the turkey

and lime juice. Cook at a low simmer for 1½ hours.

During the last ten minutes, add the leftover turkey

and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place your favorite toppings in small bowls and serve

alongside the turkey.

new mexican green chile turkey

by Justin Brunson, Old Major Executive Chef

optional toppings:

· 8 eggs, poached, over-easy or sous vide

· 16 ounces grated cheddar or pepper jack cheese

· 3 limes, quartered

· 1 cup cilantro, chopped

· 3 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced

· 12 each corn and flour tortillas, warmed

· 8 ounces sour cream

149

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Make the custard base: In a

large mixing bowl, whisk together the half and half, egg

yolks, eggs, and salt. Set aside.

In a small sauté pan, add the butter, onion, garlic and

sage, and cook over medium-low heat until the onion

softens and becomes translucent. Remove from heat

and add the shredded turkey and cubed dinner rolls. Mix

together and divide into tall ramekins (for individual

portions) or a small hotel pan (for one large bread

pudding).

Pour the custard base over the bread pudding and press

down. Let sit at least one hour, but preferably overnight.

Cover with foil and bake in a water bath for 30 minutes.

Remove foil and glaze the pudding with cranberry sauce.

Return to oven and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes,

until slightly browned. Serve with leftover gravy, if

desired.

thanksgiving pudding

by Tim Havidic, iNG Executive Chef

ingredients:

· 2 cups half and half

· 4 egg yolks

· 2 whole eggs

· 1 tablespoon salt

· 1 tablespoon butter

· 1 small onion, diced

· 4 cloves garlic, minced

· 2 large sage leaves

· 1 cup turkey leg meat, shredded

· 4-5 small dinner rolls, cut into 1-inch cubes

makes 4


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