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Support local creatives with a visit to the Hong Kong Arts Centre art shop, which sells pieces designed by alumni of the Hong Kong Art School. These specially commissioned tote bags by Kenny and Bo Law map out the city life cycle, tracing iconic buildings and the urban landscape.

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For most people, a 24-hour stopover in Hong Kong means one thing: shopping. But this King Kong of retail is not for economisers or those who enjoy browsing in unique independent boutiques. With its luxury mega-malls dripping in high-end labels and multi-level Louis Vuitton stores on every corner, Hong Kong is generally for shoppers with a healthy bank account.

Except in Wan Chai, which is a rabbit warren of cool fashion boutiques, bars and eateries manned by edgy 30-somethings, o!ering an alternative to the city’s frenetic pavement crowds and glossy premium stores. Ditch the map and simply wander the alleys of St Francis Yard and Sun, Moon and Star Streets, near the busy Queens Road, for a di!erent Hong Kong story.

SHOP The narrow, pedestrian-only Sun Street is lined with lovingly tended greenery on one

side and a row of small shops on the other. Kapok, which features an expertly curated mix of emerging international men’s and women’s designers, has a few stores in Hong Kong, but its Sun Street outpost features a co!ee bar and gallery. The latter taps into the local creative community with an impressive list of collaborations and a series of rotating exhibitions.

Adding to the area’s street cred is the hybrid retail and o"ce space of ultra-cool Monocle magazine, which is located on St Francis Yard. The store was the first of

its kind and personifies the publication’s high style with a selection of stationery, leather goods and chic travel accessories.

A couple of doors up is Nlostnfound — a treasure-trove of industrial, vintage and antique homewares and collectables. Everything is hand-restored by the owner Shirley Yu, who also runs the shop. Check out Vein next door for Scandinavian brands such as Muuto, Filippa K, Swedish Hasbeens shoes and Rebekka Rebekka.

EAT There are endless Italian restaurants and delis favoured by local expats, but for something a little di!erent, head to 22 Ships. With a no-reservations policy and only 38 seats, you may have to wait a while but it’s worth it. Headed by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton, this accessible eatery is part of a new wave of Spanish tapas joints sweeping the city.

Wan ChaiHong Kong doesn’t have to be all about big brands and designer labels. Head north to the Wan Chai district for more unique shopping, dining and cultural experiences.

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LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Amical 1 Sun St; amicalco!ee.intimex.hk. Brickhouse 20A D’Aguilar St; www.brickhouse.com.hk.Comix Home Base 1–11 Mallory St and 6–12 Burrows St; www.comixhomebase.com.hk. Hong Kong Arts Centre 2 Harbour Rd; www.hkac.org.hk.Kapok 3 Sun St; www.ka-pok.com.Life 50C Johnson Rd; www.lifecafe.com.hk.Monocle 1–4 St Francis Yard; www.monocle.com. Nlostnfound 3 St Francis Yard. Rabbithole 3 Landale St; www.rabbitholeco!ee.com.Ted’s Lookout 17A Moon St.Vein 2 St Francis Yard; www.bvein.com.Wan Chai Livelihood Museum 74 Stone Nullah Ln.2/3 Dolci 2E Star St; www.2third-dolci.com.22 Ships 22 Ship St; www.22ships.hk.

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{hong kong} TRAVEL

For heavenly morsels of gourmet pastries and gelato, visit 2/3 Dolci. The cafe tailors to the Asian palate by o!ering desserts that are two-thirds the sweetness of the original Italian recipes (hence the name).

At the opposite end of the spectrum is Life, an organic takeaway deli favoured by the yoga set because of its gluten-free, dairy-free, sugar-free products.

DRINK Tucked away at the end of Moon Street is Ted’s Lookout, a cosy spot with exposed pipes and subway tiles that wouldn’t look out of place in New York. Take advantage of happy hour and order a cocktail, then move on to the pub-style menu.

For those who prefer co!ee over alcohol, Hong Kong’s cafe culture is on the up. Get a ca!eine fix at Rabbithole, or enjoy a proper barista-brewed latte on the balcony at Amical. Not particularly well-signposted (which is probably intentional), it’s in a small alcove on Sun Street.

While there’s no shortage of wine bars in the area, for something more adventurous, head to Mexican taqueria Brickhouse — a foodie favourite with plenty of tequila. Hidden down an alley, it’s industrial chic with a relaxed vibe. Technically in Central, it’s a short drive from Wan Chai.

CULTURE The Hong Kong Arts Centre is a not-for-profit organisation celebrating the region’s

contemporary arts scene. A huge supporter of emerging talent, it’s a buzzing hub of theatres, cinemas, galleries and performance spaces

with a roster of exciting exhibitions and events on rotation throughout the year. Nearby, the a"liated Comix Home Base — featuring a gallery, shop, cafe and work spaces — is an ode to Hong Kong’s thriving comics and animation industry.

Housed in the historic Blue House, the Wan Chai Livelihood Museum celebrates and preserves local contemporary and traditional life. Heritage walks of the area must be booked in advance and are hosted by long-time residents. It’s a refreshing experience that touches on the origins of Wan Chai as a humble fishing village and explores its richly layered fabric of culture, commerce, tradition and small-scale production.

GETTING THERE To book your flight to Hong Kong via our codeshare partner Singapore Airlines/SilkAir, visit www.virginaustralia.com or call 13 67 89 (in Australia).

(opposite) 22 Ships. (clockwise from this

image) Brickhouse restaurant; Monocle’s

shopfront; a Muuto design at Vein; Kapok;

tacos at Brickhouse.