Vietnam: The Miracle Decade

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Transcript of Vietnam: The Miracle Decade

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    I N G L O B A L T R A N S I T I O N

    Walking the streets of Vietnam we experience vibrant, colorful, horn-honking, life, with families of four piled on motorbikes and sma

    businesses crammed into every possible inch of sidewalk. The Vietnamese have entrepreneurialism in their blood, and can

    seemingly make a business out of anything. On any given street corner you ll witness women in conical hats selling everything from

    fruits to fish to silk to SIM cards, while men collect mountains of recycled cardboard and Coke bottles piled on a bike; others sit atop

    their motorcycles offering xe om (taxi rides). Makeshift sidewalk restaurants consisting of plastic

    stools offer BBQ pork, shrimp spring rolls, and the national dish of Phobeef noodle soup. All part o

    a neighborhood made up of tall skinny houses (built tall rather than wide, as taxes were once base

    on the width of the facade).

    Entering the countryside, youll witness stunning marble mountains, beautiful beaches, spa villas,

    and 19th Century French architecture. This is not the Vietnam of Apocalypse NowIn fact, beyond a

    few abandoned bunkers sitting awkwardly amid rice paddies,

    signs of the Vietnam War are all but absent. Left isolated by

    the U.S. embargo in 1979, followed by a decade of rigid

    communist central planning that left them bankrupt and

    starving, the Doi Moifinally made a breakthrough in 1986with market reforms, opening their country to the broader

    world. It was then that the Vietnamese characteristically put

    the painful past aside and oriented themselves to the

    future. With unmatched determination they have turned

    Vietnam into a growing, active, hip, place de la centralethat is anything but communist today,

    despite its continued single-party rule. In the mid 90s Vietnam signed a bilateral trade agreemen

    with the U.S. and later became an active member of the WTO. Since then, one American

    interviewee living and working here described it as a "miracle decadewith unprecedented growth

    unlikely to be repeated ever again.

    Vietnam is not only an economy in transition, but

    also a nation in transformation. Evidence of this

    economic and social growth is visible in every

    corner. The countrys 87 million people have new

    levels of wealth and freedom, and there is an increasingly prevalent middle class

    buying everything from condos, to motorbikes, from iPhones to entertainment

    systems.

    Despite its many successes, however, the Vietnamese government still has a bit of

    work to do to encourage transparency, business investment, and opportunity. Most

    describe the government as well-meaning, with a big difference between the law

    on the books and the law in implementation, the latter suffering from lack of

    experience and an unfortunate tendency toward practicing Frank Sinatras mantra:

    Ill do it my way.

    VIETNAMThe Miracle Decade

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    P R O G R E S S

    Vi

    The two juxtaposing images of Vietnams transition are the motorbike and the rice paddy.

    Rice paddies pervade and are a symbol of traditional Vietnam. Agriculture still accounts for

    one fifth of the economic output and over half the work force,1 with Vietnam being the

    second largest exporter of rice in the world. Rice paddies stretch for miles along the

    highway and surround each city. But while most of the population still lives in rural and

    agricultural areas, they are moving to cities at a rapid pace. Motorbikes flood every street

    in every city, with traffic lights and lanes considered a mere suggestion, thus intimidating

    pedestrian tourists at every intersection. Where Americans turn to pick-up trucks or semis

    to haul large loads and heavy boxes, the Vietnamese ingeniously pile them on the back of

    a motoand drive with one arm navigating horrendous multi-lane traffic.

    Much like the rise of the automobile in post WWII America, the motorbike has become the symbol of increased economic

    opportunity and personal freedoms in this modernizing country. With 70% of it

    population under 35 and of working age, Vietnam needs to create one million jobs per

    year. An impressive 93% of the population is literate, but only 32% are skilled, and

    four out of five still work in agriculture. This will change as foreign investment

    continues to create the vast majority of new jobs, particularly in Vietnams garment

    and tourism industries as well as higher-skilled sectors: Intel recently announced a

    new plant for chip manufacturing just outside of Ho Chi Minh city, and companies like

    First Solar are investing as much as US$1BB into Saigons Industrial Parks. That said,

    many of our interviewees did not hold high hopes for the immediate future for the high

    tech sector. Vietnams competitive advantage is still in low-cost labor, and that does not necessarily mean good value. The lack of

    skilled workers, and a deficiency of local experts to train them in these skills, means that neighboring Thailand, Cambodia and

    China remain more attractive to investors looking for higher tech production.

    The government does not as yet seem committed to overcoming this skill gap. Though most agree the Party has its peoples best

    interests in mind, the lack of emphasis on education is troubling. Approximately five percent of the country is university educated,

    with only another few percent attending technical schools. Even among those lucky enough to

    access higher education, the emphasis in curriculum seems to be on following orders and

    memorization rather than management, initiative taking, or innovation, and every company we

    spoke with cited the need to train their employees starting at absolute zero. In high growth areas

    like tourist-central Mui Ne, jobs are more plentiful than workers, and retention past one or two

    years is unusual, with management level

    workers often poached from competitors.

    The Vietnamese are, nonetheless, an

    incredibly industrious and hardworkingpeople. Eager to help, learn, and succeed,

    everyone we encountered was willing to go

    the extra mile to ensure customer satisfaction.

    In Hoi An we ordered custom-made shoes

    from a young woman named Chung. At age

    24, Chung garnered a bank loan of

    VND25mm (just over $1250) to buy a shoe-

    making store in touristy Hoi An, a one hour

    commute from her village house. As a result her husband quit working to take

    care of their toddler. Despite the late hour on a Saturday evening, Chung drove 30 minutes each way - not once, but twice - to our

    hotel, to ensure our shoes fit perfectly before returning home to her family. We found Chung's work ethic to be the rule, not the

    exception in Vietnam.

    Although some basic infrastructure like telecommunications, high speed

    internet, and power, are better than most emerging economies, public services

    continue to be sorely lacking as the government struggles to play catch up.

    Motor highways are few, slow, and inconsistently maintained, often with two

    lanes of traffic and numerous potholes. Traveling a mere 70 miles in an urban

    area along the highway can take as long as four hours in normal traffic. Trash

    collection is limited to big cities and tourist sites; piled high on riverbanks and

    burned in heaps on roadsides in smaller towns and side alleys; Recycling is

    collected in straw baskets and on the back of bicycles by private citizens.

    Power outages are not uncommon even in larger cities, and privately owned

    back-up generators are a must for any business.

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    Private industry, however, seems to have no such distribution problem. Beer and soda are delivered to remote areas on

    motorbikes, and cell phone SIM cards are available at every kiosk. A small portion of Vietnam is getting very rich; 200 Bentleys

    were registered in Hanoi last year. Private banks are sprouting up everywhere, to serve the rising middle class and while the

    majority of the economy still operates on cash, credit cards have been introduced and

    heavily marketed over the last few years, and private equity is available even for local

    business. Great opportunity in Vietnam comes from introducing proven foreign brands and

    concepts and distributing them for the local market, and laws against nationalization protect

    foreign investment with no tax on foreign profit extraction.

    From a foreign investment and business perspective, "the system is still the system", and

    the government still plays a large role in planning. Connections, inside understanding, anda willingness to work with the ruling party to facilitate the permit process are a must. As

    many industries are still new and untested, pioneering entrepreneurs must not only blaze

    the trail for the government in the way of building local infrastructure (water treatment and

    power systems for a hotel, for example), but also retrofit after-the -fact to suit the

    government regulations when the latter party gets around to catching up.

    Indeed, the national government seems to be

    continually behind the curve, though they are

    well intended. Evidence of growth and

    expansion are everywhere, flirting with edge of

    overdevelopment. Where ten years ago foreign entrepreneurs built the first hotels on

    virgin secluded beaches along Vietnams 2,000 miles of coastline, each of those hotels

    has now been surrounded by unmitigated and usually unfinished competing resorts, inmany cases creating a Cancun-type ambiance where there was once an oceanfront

    oasis. Beaches are frequently bejeweled with trash and abandoned construction

    materials. Where the National Party has succeeded in encouraging investment and

    private sector growth, it has failed in regulating the standards of that growth to ensure

    sustainability or ecological standards.

    Vietnam is not yet a modern nation, but it is well on the way. The country is pulling

    itself out of poverty and into the modern economy quickly, without leaving behind its

    traditional culture. The number of people living below the national poverty line has

    dropped by 13% over ten years, and by as much as 26% in rural areas. With an

    improved education system come higher value jobs; with better infrastructure,

    investment and industry will follow. Vietnams risks are in ignoring the inflationary

    pressures, identifying their role in the manufacturing value chain, and mismanaging

    their vast natural resources. We hope it can continue to move without losing the rice

    paddies to concrete and conical hats to more motorbike helmets.

    We came to Vietnam with open eyes and ears, in this land freed by Ho Chi Minh and rebuilt by our generation. We leave a far

    more peaceful and prosperous place to be carried even further by this next generation. Well miss wandering the ever-inspiring

    streets of this driven populace that rises each day to create life and opportunity for itself despite all odds.