Project 90/4 30 July 1990

TRIP REPORT

VISIT TO CHRISTMAS ISLAND 11 TO 25 JULY 1990

Prepared by: John Harper Harper Environmental Services 10774 Derrick Rd, RR1 Harley, BC V8L 3R9

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Prepared for: SOPAC Technical Secretariat Private Mail Bag Suva, Fiji

SUMMARY

This report provides a summary of a visit to Christmas Is from 11 to 18 July 1990 by John Harper. The purpose of the visit was (a) to meet with local government officials to discusses potential assistance by SOPAC and (b) to identify logistical resources of the Line Islands. In addition to these primary objectives, a coastal reconnaissance of Christmas Island was conducted and is the subject of a separate report.

Meetings were held with the Minister of the Line and Phoenix Islands, Mr. Kaiarake Taburuea and his Senior Assistant, Mr. Retima Betaia.

The following areas of possible assistance were identified as a result of these discussions:

1. investigation of black coral resources in Christmas, Washington and Fanning Islands,

2. assistance in the development of coastal zone management guidelines, particularly in identifying areas of potential erosion,

3. assistance in the evaluation of aquarium coral exporting potential of Christmas Island.

4. possible assistance in nearshore bathymetric surveys around the wharf areas of London.

Logistical resources at Christmas Island are good but at Washington and Fanning Islands are very limited. Christmas Island is the logistical centre of the Line Islands and has weekly air service from Hawaii (and possibly Tarawa/Fiji), monthly container service via Honolulu and Apia, a hotel with reliable power sources, numerous small vessels up to 40ft, a work barge (5x10m), numerous trucks and rental vehicles, a large crane capable of lifting containers (10 ton?), welding machines and hardware supplies.

By contrast Fanning and Washington Islands have very limited resources. There is: no air service; inter-island vessel service about 4 times per year; islands guest houses for accommodation; limited electrical power; a few outboard-type skiffs; and only a tractor available for transport.

One reconnaissance-type project is outlined as an example of the type of combined program that might be conducted.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page No.

SUMMARY ....................................................................................... 2

TABLEOFCONTENTS ................................................................... 3

INTRODUCTION .............................................................................. 4

MEETINGS ...................................................................................... 4

POSSIBLE AREAS OF SOPAC ASSISTANCE ......................... 5

LOGISTICS ........................................................................................ 6

RECOMMENDED REFERENCES ...................................... 13

APPENDICES

A CHRISTMAS ISLAND SHIPPING SCHEDULE ............ A-1

B CAPTAIN COOK HOTEL BROCHURE ...................... B-1

C RECOMMENDED REFERENCES .......................... C-1

D TRIP LOG .......................................................................... D-1

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INTRODUCTION

The purpose of this trip was to (a) meet with government officials on Christmas Island to identify possible areas of assistance that could be provided by SOPAC, (b) inventory logistics that might be required to support a SOPAC field program and (c) conduct reconnaissance observations of the coastline of Christmas Island. The coastal reconnaissance observations are summarized in a separate report.

The visit was conducted from 11 to 18 July 1990, and coincided with the long weekend associated with the 12 July Independence Day celebrations. Meetings were formally held with two government officials, the Minister of the Line and Phoenix Islands, Mr. Kaiarake Taburuea and his Senior Assistant, Mr. Retima Betaia as well as numerous informal meetings.

The report summarizes the results of the meetings as well as of observation made during the visit.

MEETINGS

John Harper met with the Minister of the Line and Phoenix Islands on 11 July 1990. A principal concern of the Minister is the establishment of a cash-generating industry on Washington and Fanning Islands. At present Washington and Fanning Island residents have no means of earning cash except from copra, which is experiencing very poor market conditions. Black coral harvesting and carving was discussed as a possible resource development with carvings possibly sold to Christmas Island and Tarawa tourists.

The Minister also felt that a general understanding of the coastal processes operating on the islands would also be desirable so that planning could be conducted rationally and problems avoided.

Several other development projects were also reviewed with the Minister and include:

- an ongoing study of exotic biochemicals contained within algal mats of the evaporite lagoons of Christmas Is; this is a joint project between Hebrew University of Israel (Professor Yehuda Cohen) and the University o f Hawaii (Dr. Frank Samsone). The chemicals have potential application in pharmaceuticals.

a fishing resort is in the late stages of planning for the Phoenix Islands. The venture is dependent on the Christmas Island to Tarawa air route and will include a scheduled stop as Canton. The resort will target sport fisherman, include accommodation development in Canton as well as on a cruising accommodation vessel. The development is proposed by Alaska

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Sea Charters to provide better utilization of their Alaska-based cruise vessel, which normally operates only 3 months of the year (the developers were staying at the motel during my visit). The significance in the project is the greatly improved logistics to the Phoenix Islands that may be of interest to SOPAC.

- a tropical fish exportation business, currently using Kiribati nationals and

- the "Salt Project" which is continuing to be funded as a pilot project by

exporting fish weekly to Honolulu.

UNDP and is being run by a Burmese national.

Following the meeting with the Minister, further discussions with Mr. Retima Betaia, Senior Assistant to the Minister, were held. Addition concerns that were identified were (1) erosion occurring around the wharf areas of London (a tour was taken of the wharf area and (2) a request by the company presently exporting tropical fish to export one container per month of "aquarium coral"; the Ministry has apparently granted permission to export one container every six months.

POSSIBLE AREAS OF SOPAC ASSISTANCE

Based on discussions with the Minister and his Senior Assistant and my own observations, several areas of possible SOPAC assistance were identified. A preliminary list is included below:

1. Black Coral Investigations - black coral harvesting and carving is a possible industry that could provide cash for a few residents of Fanning and Washington Islands; however, a field program to these islands will be extremely difficult because of the infrequent ship service. A possible program might be as follows: (1) a field team conduct reconnaissance dives on Christmas Is to identify black coral resources, test diving techniques and train selected residents on black coral identification, (2) the field team travel to Fanning Is on the inter-island vessel and conduct a 1-3 day on Fanning Is while the vessel continues on to Washington Is, (3) return to Christmas Is on the return sailing of the inter-island vessel. This approach requires that the field survey coincide with an interisland vessel sailing to the Line Islands.

In that Washington and Fanning Islands are only about 100km apart, observations made on Fanning Is should be representative of Washington Is. The observations from Christmas Is and Fanning Is should provide an assessment of the black coral potential; depending on the results from that program, a more comprehensive follow on program could be designed. The Christmas Island component could be interfaced with other activities such as nearshore sounding surveys.

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2. Coastal Reconnaissance Maps - coastal reconnaissance maps would be useful to assist planners with ongoing developments of Christmas, Fanning and Washington Islands. The maps could be largely developed from airphotos prior to any field investigations. The maps would identify coastal types, typical nearshore gradients, sediment transport paths and coastal erosion areas. Field verifications might be conducted during the black coral reconnaissance survey.

3. Promotion of Coastal and Geological Research - ongoing promotion of research in the Lines Is is important and should be promoted by SOPAC. In particular, the evaporite lagoons of Christmas appear to be globally unique and may have practical significance in addition to the high grade gypsum and exotic biochemicals already identified.

4. Nearshore Surveys - the coastal areas of London are presently undergoing coastal erosion, in some areas threatening large buildings. The erosion problem appears to large man-made in that the critically eroding areas are largely dredged spoil/landfill creating during WWII dredging projects. Gradual replacement of threatened buildings is recommended rather than extensive revetments as the shoreline appears to be returning to its pre-development position. At the present time there is little vessel traffic - approximately monthly containership service and only a small, working wharf area is required. However, sounding of the inlets and nearshore around London would be helpful as even small vessels are prevented from anchoring inside the lagoon. Also such a survey would be helpful in the preliminary design stages of any new wharf development.

5. Aquarium Coral Collection - this program is apparently oriented to collection of hard reef corals. As such, it may be more appropriately handled by SPREP. In any case, the local authorities require some guidance as to: (a) what is the sustainable yield, (b) are their other potentially undesirable side-effects, and (c) should particular harvesting strategies be pursued. In that the Captain Cook Hotel is promoting Christmas Island as an untouched "diving" destination, this proposal should be viewed with considerable concern.

LOGISTICS

Logistics for Christmas, Fanning and Washington Islands are outlined in Tables 1, 2 and 3 respectively. Overall most field programs of the type undertaken by SOPAC could be easily supported on Christmas Is but with more difficulty on Fanning and Washington Islands. The problem with the latter is the approximately 3 month ship sailing cycle for these islands.

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TABLE 1 CHRISTMAS ISLAND LOGISTICS SUMMARY

TRANSPORTATION

Air: Weekly air service by Air Tungaru (using an ALOHA Airlines crew and plane). An expanded schedule was run on 11-12 July as follows: Wednesdays - Honolulu, Christmas Is, Canton, Tarawa, Nadi; Thursdays -Nadi, Tarawa, Canton, Christmas Is, Honolulu. This expanded service was temporarily suspended due failure of the Canton Air beacon but should be back on line before September. Air freight is $1/kg from Honolulu. No aircraft

Sea: are based in the Line Islands. There is monthly container service from the Hawaii Pacific Lines. The ship routing is:

Transhipment is via Apia. See appendix A for sailing schedule. Honolulu, Pago Pago, Apia, Vavau'u/Nuku'alofa, Rarotonga, Christmas Is, Honolulu.

Vehicles: Rental trucks are available at $60/day. The government motor pool has pickups and flatbed trucks.

F U E L : There are supplies of diesel, gas and Jet-A fuel available on the island.

BOATS: There are numerous locally-owned,small, outboard-type vessels less than 20ft (Fig. 1). The Hotel owns 15-20ft punts with canopies that might also be suitable for diving or surveying

38ft sport fishing vessel (Fig. 4); charter rates of the latter are listed at $500-600/day but (Fig. 2). There is a narrow beam, inboard Fisheries vessel (Fig. 3) and the Hotel owns a

the government might be able to secure better rates. A catamaran-type barge with a 5x10m deck area (Fig. 5) is powered by two 40hp outboards and would be available when not used as a container lightering vessel.

POWER: There is 24-hour/day 110VAC available at the Hotel. London has approximately 8hr/day (0900-1800) of 220VAC.

H A R D W A R E : Simple hardware, lumber, rope and pipe is available through government stores.

W H A R F : The only useable wharf is at London. A 80m long steel bulkhead is present; draft alongside is probably less than 3ft at low tide.

LODGING: The Captain Cook Hotel has about 30 room, some of which are air conditioned. Meals are served at the restaurant and there is a bar (APPENDIX B)

MAPS & PHOTOS: Topo maps of Christmas Is were available but Fanning and Washington Maps are

obtainable from Lands and Surveys in Tarawa. No vertical airphotos are available in the Line Islands and no WWII photos of the Line Islands are available from the Bishop Museum.

MEDICAL: There is a doctor on the island and a small clinic. Medical emergencies are evacuated to Hawaii by the USCG.

OTHER: Most bench marks appear to be in good condition around the island. The island was occupied by Us then British forces up to the mid 1960's so roads and runways are in good condition. There are acres of abandoned vehicles around -the island. Mr. John Bryden is a naturalized expatriate who rents trucks and also has the-freight handling contract for Air Tungaru/Aloha. He has a large crane ($200/hr rental), welding shop and a good contact for handling air freight and/or logistics. He has lived on both Fanning and Washington Islands.

COMMUNICATIONS: By radio, daily to Tarawa.

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TABLE 2 FANNING ISLAND LOGISTICS SUMMARY

TRANSPORTATION:

Air: No scheduled air service. Airport on Island is apparently serviceable.

Sea: The island is serviced irregularly (about 3 to 4 times per year) by the inter-island vessel. There is good anchorage int he lagoon.

Vehicles: There is apparently a farm tractor and trailer on the island; this is the only transport.

FUEL: There are limited supplies of gas (drums) on the island.

BOATS: There are a few locally-owned,small, outboard-type vessels less than 20ft.

POWER: There are apparently one or two gas-powered generators on the island

HARDWARE: Unknown.

WHARF: No wharf, lightering is done on the lagoon beach.

LODGING: There is apparently a government guest house.

MAPS & PHOTOS: None available in the Line Islands.

MEDICAL: There is a nurse on the island and a small clinic. Medical emergencies are evacuated to Hawaii by the USCG.

COMMUNICATIONS: By radio to Christmas Is once per day.

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TABLE 3 WASHINGTON ISLAND LOGISTICS SUMMARY

TRANSPORTATION:

Air: No scheduled air service. Airport on Island is apparently serviceable.

Sea: The island is serviced irregularly (about 3 to 4 times per year) by the inter-island vessel.

Vehicles: There is apparently a farm tractor and trailer on the island; this is the only transport.

FUEL: There are limited supplies of gas (drums) on the island.

BOATS: There are a few locally-owned,small, outboard-type vessels less than 20ft.

POWER: There are apparently one or two gas-powered generators on the island

HARDWARE: Unknown.

WHARF: No wharf; landing is through a blasted reef channel - the approach is locally described as a hair-raising experience.

LODGING: There is apparently a government guest house.

MAPS & PHOTOS: None available in the Line Islands.

MEDICAL: There is a nurse on the island and a small clinic. Medical emergencies are evacuated to Hawaii by the USCG.

COMMUNICATIONS: By radio to Christmas Is once per day.

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RECOMMENDED REFERENCES

SOPAC has a poor selection of reference materials for Christmas Island. I would recommend the references listed in Appendix C be acquired by the SOPAC library. In particular, the reference by Jenkin and Foale (1968) appears to incorporate a large amount of geology and soil survey data.

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APPENDIX A

Christmas Island Shipping Schedule

A-1

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APPENDIX B

Captain Cook Hotel Brochure

B-1

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APPENDIX C Recommended References for SOPAC Acquisition

Bailey, Eric, 1977. The Christmas Island story. Stacey International, 128 Kensington Church St., London V8 4BH, Captain James Cook Bicentennial Edition, copyright Gilbert Islands Government).

Hammond, T.T., 1969. The characterization and classification of the soils of Christmas Island. Unpublished MSc Thesis, University of Hawaii, 109 p.

Helfrich, P., J. Ball, A. Berger, P. Bienfang, S.A. Cattell, M.D. Foster, G. Fredholm, B. Gallagher, E. Guinther, G. Krasnick, M. Rakowicz and M. Valencia,1973. The feasibility of brine shrimp production on Christmas Island. University of Hawaii Sea Grant Technical Report TR-73-02, 173 pp.

Jenkin, R.N. and M.A. Foale, 1968. An investigation of the coconut-growing potential of Christmas Is. Ministry of Overseas Development, Resources Division, Directorate of Overseas Surveys, Tolworth, Surrey, England, Land Resources Study No. 4.

Northrop, J., 1962, Geophysical observations on Christmas Island. Atoll Research Bulletin 89:1-2.

Ritchie, G.S., 1958. Sounding profiles between Fiji, Christmas and Tahiti Islands. Deep-sea Research 5:162-168.

Roy, K.J. and S.V. Smith, 1970. Sedimentation and coral reef development in turbid water: Fanning Lagoon. Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Report HIG-70-23:61-76.

Valencia, M., 1977. Christmas Island (Pacific Ocean): Reconnaissance geological observations. Atoll Research Bulletin 197: 17p.

Warner, J.B. and A. Rossfelder, 1979. Reconnaissance of Christmas Island of the Line Islands, North Pacific 1979. Contractor report by GEOMAREX Geomarine Exploration Associates, Lajolla, CA to the Government of Kiribati. (Bruce Richmond has a copy of this!).

Wentworth, C.K., 1931. Geology of the Pacific Equatorial Islands. Bernice P. Bishop Museum, Honolulu, Occassional Paper IX, 15:3-25.

Wiens, H.J., 1962. Atoll environment and ecology. Yale University Press, 532 p. C-1

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APPENDIX D

Trip Log

9 July Departed Victoria 0640 an arrived in Honolulu about 1300. Met with Brendan Holden and family.

10 July Met with Karen Stockton' of Bishop Museum from 100-1230 to research WWII aerial photos; copied log book' (log book later given to Doug Rearic for return to SOPAC) and reviewed photos for coastal engineering workshop in Tuvalu and Tarawa. Prepared photo order.

11 July Departed hotel at 0230 - flight left Honolulu at 0600 after 2 hr delay; arrive Christmas Island at 0930 and met by Retima Betaia. Met with Minister at 1330 to discuss mission and identify problems where SOPAC can help. Stepped on spiny sponge!

12 July Independence Day - National Holiday. Attended Independence Day ceremonies at the Invitation of the Minister in morning. Reviewed geology reports in afternoon. Attended Independence Day Party in London that evening.

13 July Day off.

14 July Conducted coastal reconnaissance, Stations #1 to #13, northeast coast of Christmas Island.

15 July conducted coastal reconnaissance, Stations #13 to #23, southern and southwestern coast.

16 July picked-up government truck and survey equipment. Conducted beach profiles #1 to #9.

17 July conducted beach profiling, Profiles #10 to #12, reconnaissance Stations #25 to #30. Reported results to Ritema Betaia.

18 July departed Christmas Is at 1030 arrived Honolulu 1330. Met with doug Rearic at Hotel.

19 July additional meetings with Doug re air photo acquisition and workshop.

20 July gave Doug a ride to airport; departed Honolulu 1330 and arrived in Victoria 2330.

D-1

1 Karen Stackton, Geography and Map Collections, Bishop Museum, 1525 Bernice St., P.O. Box 19000-A, Honolulu, Hawaii 96817. Phone (808)848-4144.

2 "Shelf Guide for Air Photographs of Pacific Islands"

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