TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER - gandalf.com.pl · Indonesian border on Kalimantan’s ... Dayak languages...
11
PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Borneo ....... 2 Map .................................. 4 15 Top Experiences ........ 6 Need to Know ................. 14 If You Like ........................ 16 Month by Month ............. 18 Adventure Borneo .......... 20 Diving Pulau Sipadan ..... 26 Itineraries ........................ 30 Regions at a Glance ....... 34 YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip UNDERSTAND BORNEO Borneo Today ................. 266 History ............................. 268 Peoples & Cultures ........ 273 The Cuisines of Borneo ........................... 281 The Land & Environmental Issues .... 287 Wildlife ............................... 295 2.5 million BC Borneo is attached to mainland Southeast Asia, aording plants, insects, animals and eventually people easy migration routes. 8000 BC Rising sea levels at the end of the last ice age submerge much of the Sundaland continental plate, transform- ing Borneo into the world’s third-largest island. 1st century AD Chinese and Indian traders detour to Borneo. By AD 500, Chinese are settling in coastal present-day West Kalimantan. Borneo Becomes an Island rneo was connected to mainland Southeast Asia – as art of a an mass known as Sundaland – from 2.5 million years ago unti some 10,000 years ago, when global deglaciation turnedit backinto an is an . Archaeologicalevidence suggests that human beings arrivedin Sarawa – overland– at least 40,000 years ago. More migrants arrivedabout 3000 years ago, probably from southern China, mixing with earlier inha itants to form some of Borneo’s indigenous groups. Traders from India andChina began stopping by Borneo – as a si e- show to their bilateral commerce – around the 1st century AD, intro- ducing Hinduism andBuddhism. From about AD 500, Chinese traders started settling along Borneo’s coasts. It is believed that the influence of the Sumatra-based kingdom of Srivijaya (7th to 13th centuries) extended to Borneo. During this time, Brunei emergedas a centre for trade with China; some historians believe that the first Muslims to visit Borneo came from China in the 10th century. The Arrival of Islam &the European Powers Islam was brought to present-day Peninsular Malaysia, including Melaka, by traders from South India in the early 15th century. Over time, diplo- macy, often cemented by marriage, oriented Borneo’s coastal sultanates towards Melaka andIslam. Archaeological finds in western Borneo include glass beads made in the Roman Empire. TRADE The Cuisines of Borneo Eatingin Borneo is never boring. Southeast Asia’s main trade, immigra- tion and colonisation routes are right nearby, which is why the island’s cuisines include dishes from various provinces of southern China, the Malay parts of both mainland and island Southeast Asia, and even south- ern India – in addition to delicious indigenous (Dayak) dishes, based on ingredients that grow wild in the rainforest. Throughout Borneo, nasi ( i rice) and mee(noodles) are the staples, and one or the other makes an appearance at almost every meal, including reakfast. Rice is eaten steamed, as nasi goreng (fried with other g ients) and boiled as bubur (sweet or savoury porridge very po r reakfast), or glutinous varieties are steamed and moulded into tubes or cubes and often wrapped with leaves. Noodles, in a variety of widths nd thicknesses, can be made from wheat (with or without e , rice b d d b il d i In B n n s f t Br ÀÁDeforestation makes for depressing head- lines, but signiÀcant parts of the Bornean rainforest – among the most ancient eco- systems on earth – remain intact, protected by conservation projects whose viability depends, in part, on income from tourists. Jungle Wildlife For many visitors to Borneo, their most memorable moment is a personal encoun- ter with a living creature: glimpsing a wild orangutan swinging through the jungle canopy, spotting an Irrawaddy dolphin in the shimmering waters of the South China Sea, or locking eyes with the reptilian gaze of a saltwater croc. Jungle animals are shy by nature, but a good guide can Welcome to Borneo “ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! ” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET PAGE 2 PAGE 265 GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see Sabah, in Borneo’s far north, brings together unspoilt rainforests – prime orangutan habitat – with some of the world’s most phenomenal scuba diving. More excellent diving awaits south of the Indonesian border on Kalimantan’s east coast, and there’s plenty of jungle adventure to be had inland, along and between Kalimantan’s major rivers. On the north coast, Sarawak is home to the island’s most accessible national parks – based in the sophisticated but laid- back city of Kuching, you can take day trips to see orangutans and (if you’re lucky) a 75cm-wide Rafflesia flower, hike in the jungle and visit longhouse communities. Tiny Brunei, with a tempo and culinary customs all its own, offers visitors pristine habitats and a modernising take on Malay traditions. Sabah Hiking & Trekking 333 Diving 333 Jungle Wildlife 33 Hiking & Trekking Novice explorers can take a night trek near the Sungai Kinabatangan or inch across a canopy walkway in Poring Hot Springs, while the fit can test their endurance at the limestone outcrops of Batu Punggul or on the icy peak of Mt Kinabalu. Diving & Snorkelling To say Sabah is known for its scuba scene is like sayin France is known for its cui- sine. The diving in spots lik Pulau Mantanani, Layang Layang and, of course, the famous Sipadan is – no exaggeration – some of the finest in the world. Jungle Wildlife Hornbills shriek in trees inhabited by pot-bellied proboscis monkeys, and slow-swinging through the canopy comes the ginger regions at a glance 34 Need to Know Currency »Malaysian ringgit (RM), Brunei dollar (B$), Indonesian rupiah (Rp) Language »Bahasa Malaysia, Bahasa Indonesia, Chinese dialects, Dayak languages such as Kadazan-Dusun, Iban, Bidayuh and Kelabit Year-round »No especially good or bad season to visit. »Lowland areas hot and humid. »Rain a possibility every day, all year (but without rain, as they say, it wouldn’t be a rainforest). ‘Wet’ Season (Oct-Feb) »Indistinct wet season October to February; can affect boat links to islands and diving visibility. »Rains can render Kalimantan’s dirt roads impassable (October to April). High Season (Jul-Sep) »Accommodation and trekking guides may be booked out in some areas in July, August and perhaps September. When to Go Balikpapan GOyear-round Banjarmasin GOyear-round Kuching GOyear-round Bandar Seri Begawan GOyear-round Kota Kinabalu GOyear-round Pontianak GOyear-round Tropical climate, rain year-round Your Daily Budget Budget less than US$30 »Dorm bed: US$4–7 »Meals at food stalls, self-catering at fruit and vegie markets »National park admission: US$3 »Almost all museums are free Midrange US $30–80 »Air-con double with bathroom: from US$20 »Meals at all but the priciest restaurants »Taxis, chartered motorboats or tours to nature sites Top end over US$80 »Luxury double room: US$100 »Seafood dinner: US$8–20 per kilo 14 Diving Pulau Sipadan Best Times for Diving April–SeptemberThis is turtle time, when sea turtles come to the archipelago to lay their eggs in the soft sand. You’re unlikely to actually see turtles laying eggs, but you may spot them dancing their slow ballet beneath the waves. That said, turtles are always present in these waters – they’re just highly concentrated during this period. July–AugustVisibility is often stunning at this time of year, and clear views to 25m are common. You’ll likely have to deal with more crowds as well, as this is prime holiday time in the northern hemisphere. Book well in advance if you want to visit during this period. The waters off the island of Sipadan were declared ‘one of the world’s best diving sites’ by no less an expert than Jacques Cousteau. Every year, his assessment is confirmed by thousands of divers who come here to ex- plore Sipadan’s plunging sea wall, home and transit point for a staggering array of marine life, including green and hawksbill sea turtles, hammerhead sharks, parrotfish, manta rays and schools of fish so massive they resemble silver tornadoes or shimmer- ing walls of armour. But those same divers make it hard for Sipadan to remain ‘an untouched piece of art’, as Cousteau put it. Sipadan is many things, including one of Borneo’s most pop- ular tourism destinations, but untouched it is not. The Malaysian government has seen ISBN 978-1-74220-296-9 9 781742 202969 9 9 5 2 5
Transcript of TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER - gandalf.com.pl · Indonesian border on Kalimantan’s ... Dayak languages...
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Borneo ....... 2Map .................................. 415 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like ........................ 16Month by Month ............. 18Adventure Borneo .......... 20Diving Pulau Sipadan ..... 26Itineraries ........................ 30Regions at a Glance ....... 34
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND BORNEO
Borneo Today ................. 266History ............................. 268Peoples & Cultures ........ 273The Cuisines of Borneo ........................... 281The Land & Environmental Issues .... 287Wildlife ............................... 295
2.5 million BC
Borneo is attached to mainland Southeast
Asia, a ording plants, insects, animals and
eventually people easy migration routes.
8000 BC
Rising sea levels at the end of the last ice age
submerge much of the Sundaland continental
plate, transform-ing Borneo into the
world’s third-largest island.
1st century AD
Chinese and Indian traders detour
to Borneo. By AD 500, Chinese are settling
in coastal present-day West Kalimantan.
Borneo Becomes an Island rneo was connected to mainland Southeast Asia – as art of a anmass known as Sundaland – from 2.5 million years ago unti some10,000 years ago, when global deglaciation turned it back into an is an . Archaeological evidence suggests that human beings arrived in Sarawa – overland – at least 40,000 years ago. More migrants arrived about 3000 years ago, probably from southern China, mixing with earlier in ha itants to form some of Borneo’s indigenous groups.
Traders from India and China began stopping by Borneo – as a si e-show to their bilateral commerce – around the 1st century AD, intro-ducing Hinduism and Buddhism. From about AD 500, Chinese traders started settling along Borneo’s coasts. It is believed that the influence of the Sumatra-based kingdom of Srivijaya (7th to 13th centuries) extended to Borneo. During this time, Brunei emerged as a centre for trade with China; some historians believe that the first Muslims to visit Borneo came from China in the 10th century.
The Arrival of Islam & the European Powers Islam was brought to present-day Peninsular Malaysia, including Melaka, by traders from South India in the early 15th century. Over time, diplo-macy, often cemented by marriage, oriented Borneo’s coastal sultanates towards Melaka and Islam.
Archaeological finds in western Borneo include
glass beads made in the Roman
Empire.
TRA
DE
The Cuisinesof Borneo Eating in Borneo is never boring. Southeast Asia’s main trade, immigra-tion and colonisation routes are right nearby, which is why the island’scuisines include dishes from various provinces of southern China, theMalay parts of both mainland and island Southeast Asia, and even south-ern India – in addition to delicious indigenous (Dayak) dishes, based oningredients that grow wild in the rainforest.
Throughout Borneo, nasi (i rice) and mee (noodles) are the staples, andone or the other makes an appearance at almost every meal, includingreakfast. Rice is eaten steamed, as nasi goreng (fried with other gients) and boiled as bubur (sweet or savoury porridge very porreakfast), or glutinous varieties are steamed and moulded into tubes
or cubes and often wrapped with leaves. Noodles, in a variety of widthsnd thicknesses, can be made from wheat (with or without e , rice
b d d b il d i
InB
nnsft
Br
Ancient Rainforests If you love tropical greenhouses and can’t wait to be enveloped by the humid fecund-ity of a real equatorial rainforest, Borneo will ful l your wildest dreams. The island’s jungles conjure up remoteness and peril, bringing to mind impenetrable foliage and river trips into the ‘heart of darkness’. But look a little closer – on a nature walk with a park ranger, for ins tance – and nuan-ces emerge: the pitcher plants, lianas and orchids of the lowland forest give way to conifers, rhododendrons and di erent kinds of orchids as you ascend the anks of Mt Kinabalu. The vegetation changes just as radically as you sail upriver from the mangroves along the South China Sea.
Deforestation makes for depressing head-lines, but signi cant parts of the Bornean rainforest – among the most ancient eco-systems on earth – remain intact, protected by conservation projects whose viability depends, in part, on income from tourists.
Jungle Wildlife For many visitors to Borneo, their most memorable moment is a personal encoun-ter with a living creature: glimpsing a wild orangutan swinging through the jungle canopy, spotting an Irrawaddy dolphin in the shimmering waters of the South China Sea, or locking eyes with the reptilian gaze of a saltwater croc. Jungle animals are shy by nature, but a good guide can
Welcome to Borneo
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
265GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Sabah, in Borneo’s far north, brings together unspoilt rainforests – prime orangutan habitat – with some of the world’s most phenomenal scuba diving. More excellent diving awaits south of the Indonesian border on Kalimantan’s east coast, and there’s plenty of jungle adventure to be had inland, along and between Kalimantan’s major rivers. On the north coast, Sarawak is home to the island’s most accessible national parks – based in the sophisticated but laid-back city of Kuching, you can take day trips to see orangutans and (if you’re lucky) a 75cm-wide Rafflesia flower, hike in the jungle and visit longhouse communities. Tiny Brunei, with a tempo and culinary customs all its own, offers visitors pristine habitats and a modernising take on Malay traditions.
Sabah Hiking & Trekking Diving Jungle Wildlife
Hiking & Trekking Novice explorers can take anight trek near the Sungai Kinabatangan or inch across a canopy walkway in Poring Hot Springs, while the fit can test their en durance at the limestoneoutcrops of Batu Punggul or on the icy peak of Mt Kinabalu.
Diving & Snorkelling To say Sabah is known for its scuba scene is like sayinFrance is known for its cui-sine. The diving in spots likPulau Mantanani, Layang Layang and, of course, the famous Sipadan is – no exaggeration – some of thefinest in the world.
Jungle Wildlife Hornbills shriek in trees inhabited by pot-bellied proboscis monkeys, and slow-swinging through thecanopy comes the ginger
regions at a glance
34
Need to Know Currency
» Malaysian ringgit (RM), Brunei dollar (B$), Indonesian rupiah (Rp)
Language » Bahasa Malaysia,
Bahasa Indonesia, Chinese dialects, Dayak languages such as Kadazan-Dusun, Iban, Bidayuh and Kelabit
Year-round » No especially
good or bad season to visit.
» Lowland areas hot and humid.
» Rain a possibility every day, all year (but without rain, as they say, it wouldn’t be a rainforest).
‘Wet’ Season (Oct-Feb)
» Indistinct wet season October to February; can affect boat links to islands and diving visibility.
» Rains can render Kalimantan’s dirt roads impassable (October to April).
High Season (Jul-Sep)
» Accommodation and trekking guides may be booked out in some areas in July, August and perhaps September.
When to Go
#
#
#
#
#
#
BalikpapanGO year-round
BanjarmasinGO year-round
KuchingGO year-round
Bandar Seri BegawanGO year-round
Kota KinabaluGO year-round
PontianakGO year-round
Tropical climate, rain year-round
Your Daily Budget Budget less than
US$30 » Dorm bed: US$4–7 » Meals at food stalls,
self-catering at fruit and vegie markets
» National park admission: US$3
» Almost all museums are free
Midrange
US$30–80
» Air-con double with bathroom: from US$20
» Meals at all but the priciest restaurants
» Taxis, chartered motorboats or tours to nature sites
Top end over
US$80 » Luxury double room:
US$100 » Seafood dinner:
US$8–20 per kilo
14
Diving Pulau Sipadan Best Times for Diving April–September This is turtle time, when sea turtles come to the archipelago to lay their eggs in the soft sand. You’re unlikely to actually see turtles laying eggs, but you may spot them dancing their slow ballet beneath the waves. That said, turtles are always present in these waters – they’re just highly concentrated during this period.
July–August Visibility is often stunning at this time of year, and clear views to 25m are common. You’ll likely have to deal with more crowds as well, as this is prime holiday time in the northern hemisphere. Book well in advance if you want to visit during this period.
The waters off the island of Sipadan were declared ‘one of the world’s best diving sites’ by no less an expert than Jacques Cousteau. Every year, his assessment is confirmed by thousands of divers who come here to ex-plore Sipadan’s plunging sea wall, home and transit point for a staggering array of marine life, including green and hawksbill sea turtles, hammerhead sharks, parrotfish, manta rays and schools of fish so massive they resemble silver tornadoes or shimmer-ing walls of armour.
But those same divers make it hard for Sipadan to remain ‘an untouched piece of art’, as Cousteau put it. Sipadan is many things, including one of Borneo’s most pop-ular tourism destinations, but untouched it is not. The Malaysian government has seen
I SBN 978 -1 -74220 -296 -9
9 781742 202969
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borneo-3-cover.indd 2borneo-3-cover.indd 2 5/03/2013 10:17:47 AM5/03/2013 10:17:47 AM
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Daniel RobinsonAdam Karlin, Paul Stiles
Sarawak(p121)
Sabah(p38)Brunei
(p196)
Kalimantan(p215)
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 300Transport ........................ 311Health .............................. 317Language ........................ 321Index ................................ 330Map Legend .................... 335
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
311
GETTING THERE & AWAY Most travellers arrive in Borneo by air, most often from the gateway cities of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur (KL) and Jakarta. Kalimantan has ferry links to Java and Sulawesi, and there are also ferries between Sabah and the southern Philippines.
Many of the regional and low-fare airlines do not sell tickets through the major online fare aggregators.
Flights and tours can be booked online at www.lonely-planet.com.
Air Sabah AirAsia (www.airasia.com) Kota Kinabalu (KK) to Pe-ninsular Malaysia (KL, Johor Bahru and Penang), Singa-pore, Jakarta, Clark (Philip-pines), Taipei, Shenzhen and Hong Kong; Sandakan to KL; Tawau to KL; and Pulau Labuan to KL. Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) KK to KL, Hong Kong, Tapei, Osaka and Perth. Silk Air (www.silkair.com) KK to Singapore.
Tiger Airways (www.tig-erairways.com) KK to Clark (Philippines).
Sarawak AirAsia (www.airasia.com) Kuching to Singapore, KL, Johor Bahru and Penang; Miri to Singapore, KL and Johor Bahru; Sibu to KL and Johor Bahru; Bintulu to KL. Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com.my) Kuching to KL and SIngapore. Silk Air (www.silkair.com) Kuching to Singapore. Tiger Airways (www.tig-erairways.com) Kuching to Singapore.
Brunei Royal Brunei Airlines (www.bruneiair.com) Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) to London, Dubai, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok, Manila, Melbourne, Singapore, Sura-baya, Jakarta and KL. Offers reasonably priced long-haul flights with a stopover in BSB. Flights are alcohol-free. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) BSB to KL. Cebu Pacific Air (www.cebupacificair.com) BSB to Manila.
Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) BSB to KL. Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) BSB to Singapore.
Kalimantan Flying to and around Kali-mantan is much safer than a few years ago. AirAsia (www.airasia.com) Balikpapan to KL. Batavia Air (www.batavia-air.com) Balikpapan to Jakarta, Surabaya, Jogjakarta and Manado; Banjarmasin to Jakarta and Surabaya; Berau to Surabaya; Pon-tianak to Jakarta, Jogjakarta, Batam (near Singapore) and Singapore. Garuda (www.garuda-indonesia.com) Balikpapan to Jakarta, Surabaya, Jogja-karta and Makassar; Banjar-masin to Jakarta; Pontianak to Jakarta. Kal Star (www.kalstaronline.com) Jakarta to various Kalimantan cities, plus intra-Kalimantan connections. Lion Air (www2.lionair.co.id) Balikpapan to Jakarta, Sura-baya, Jogjakarta and Makas-sar; Banjarmasin to Jakarta, Surabaya and Jogjakarta. Silk Air (www.silkair.net) Balikpapan to Singapore. Sriwijaya (www.sriwijayaair.co.id) Balikpapan to Jakarta, Surabaya, Jogjakarta and Makassar; Banjarmasin to Jakarta and Surabaya; Pontianak to Jakarta.
Sea Sabah Ferries link Sandakan with Zamboanga, on the Philip-pine island of Mindanao, twice a week; see p 77 for details.
Kalimantan Ferries run by Pelni (www.pelni.co.id), Dharma Lautan (www.dluonline.co.id) and Prima Vista connect Balik-papan, Samarinda, Banjar-masin and Pontianak with
Transport
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See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . . .38KOTA KINABALU . . . . . . . . . 40
AROUND KOTA KINABALU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park . . . . . . . . . . . .54
NORTHWESTERN SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 56Northwest Coast . . . . . . . . 66
EASTERN SABAH . . . . . . . . 71Sandakan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71Sepilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Sandakan Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Sungai Kinabatangan . . . . . . . . . . . 82Lahad Datu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Danum Valley Conservation Area . . . . . . . 88Tabin Wildlife Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Semporna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91Semporna Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93Tawau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Tawau Hills Park . . . . . . . . .101Maliau Basin Conservation Area . . . . . . .101
SOUTHWESTERN SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Beaufort Division . . . . . . . 106Pulau Tiga National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Pulau Labuan . . . . . . . . . . 109
SARAWAK . . . . . . . . . 121KUCHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
WESTERN SARAWAK . . . . 142Bako National Park . . . . . .142Santubong Peninsula . . . .146Kuching Wetlands National Park . . . . . . . . . . .148Semenggoh Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149Kubah National Park . . . . . 151Bau & Environs . . . . . . . . . .153Gunung Gading National Park . . . . . . . . . . .155Talang-Satang National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 157
CENTRAL SARAWAK . . . . . 159Sibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159Batang Rejang . . . . . . . . . .163Bintulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168Similajau National Park . .169Niah National Park . . . . . . . 171Miri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
NORTHEASTERN SARAWAK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Gunung Mulu National Park . . . . . . . . . . .180Kelabit Highlands . . . . . . . .186Limbang Division . . . . . . . .193
BRUNEI . . . . . . . . . . . 196BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
TUTONG & BELAIT DISTRICTS . . . . . . . . . . . . .209
TEMBURONG DISTRICT . . . 210
KALIMANTAN . . . . . . 215EAST KALIMANTAN . . . . .220Balikpapan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220Samarinda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Sungai Mahakam . . . . . . . 228Wehea Forest . . . . . . . . . . .237Berau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Derawan Archipelago . . . . 239
NORTH KALIMANTAN . . . 242
WEST KALIMANTAN . . . . . 242Pontianak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Sukadana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Sungai Kapuas . . . . . . . . . 249
CENTRAL KALIMANTAN . . . . . . . . . . . 251Tanjung Puting National Park . . . . . . . . . . .251Pangkalan Bun . . . . . . . . . 255Palangka Raya . . . . . . . . . 256
SOUTH KALIMANTAN . . . 259Banjarmasin . . . . . . . . . . . 259Loksado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
200m
500m
1000m
2000m
100m
0
ELEVATIONMaliau Basin
Truly untouchedrainforest (p101)
Gunung MuluNational Park
Hiking, caves and bats (p180)
Tanjung PutingNational Park
Amazing jungle cruise (p251)
Bako National ParkProboscis monkeys, pitcherplants and beaches (p142)
KuchingStylish, sophisticated
and multicultural (p124)
SemenggohNature Reserve
Semi-wild orangutans (p149)
SarawakDayak longhouses andtraditional life (p121)
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11°E
MALAYSIA
INDONESIA PulauBelitung
PulauMaya
TembelanArchipelago
AnambasArchipelago
JavaSea
KarimataStrait
SerasanStrait
S O U THCH IN AS E A
SARAWAK
SUMATRA
Kapuas Hulu Range
Schwaner Range
TelukSampit
TelukKumai
TelukSukadanaPulau
Karimata
PulauNatuna
TelukDatu
Pembuang
Igan
Kapuas
Batang Rejang
Equator (0°)
5°N
Belaga
Kabong
BauPemangkat
Benkayang
Kanowit
Sematan
NangaTayap
Rambai
Kendawangan
Sanggau
Telukbatang
Ketapang
Tanjung
Kudangan
Sintang
Tumbangjul
Sukamara
Tumbangsamba
Petakbehandang
Kasungan
Serian
PangkalanBun
AnnahRais
Semenggoh
Manggar
Pusa
Mukah
SarikeiBitangor
Bintulu
Dalat
Tandjungpandan
Sambas
Mempawah
Sampit
Singkawang
Pontianak
PalangkaRaya
Sibu
Kuching
Kuala Pembuang
Kuala Kuayan
Kuala Kurun
SriAman
LubukAntu
DanauSentarum
National Park
SimilajauNational Park
SemenggohNature
Reserve
Gunung GadingNational Park
Lambir HillsNational Park
BakoNational
Park
Tanjung PutingNational Park
SebangauNational
Park
Gunung PalungNational Park
Bukit Baka-Bukit Raya
National Park
Betung KerihumnNational Park
NiahNational Park
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› Borneo
Mt KinabaluBy far Borneo's
highest peak (p56)
Danum ValleyPrimeval jungle, pygmy
elephants, orangutans (p88)
Sepilok Orang-UtanRehabilitation Centre
Orangutans up close (p77)
Sungai KinabatanganRiver banks teemingwith animals (p82)
Kelabit HighlandsCool air, smiles, great
trekking (p186)
Derawan ArchipelagoUnspoilt tropical
islands (p239)
LoksadoMountain retreat (p263)
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11°30'E 12°E
NunukanTimurIsland
CagayanSulu
Island
Pulau Banggi
PulauJambongan
PulauBalambangan
DerawanArchipelago
TawitawiIsland
PHILIPPINESMALAYSIA
INDONESIA
PulauMalawali
PulauSipadan
PulauBunyu
INDONESIA
PulauSebuku
PulauLaut
KelabitHighlands
JoloIsland
Teluk LahadDatu
Balabac Strait
TelukBrunei
TidungEstuary
MakassarStrait
CelebesSea
SuluSea
PALAWANPALAWAN
PALAWAN
KALIMANTAN
BRUNEI
SABAH
PegununganMeratus
Sambaliung Mountains
Iran
Range
TelukSebuko
TelukSekatak
SULAWESITelukAdangTelukApar
LakeMelintang
LakeJempang
LakeSemayang
Ka
yan
Bara
m
Barito
SungaiKinabata
ngan
Mt Kinabalu(4095m)
GunungMulu (2337m)
Mt Trus Madi(2642m)
5°N
Batakam
Tenggarong
Kandangan
PelaihariPagatan
Rantau
Tanahgrogot
Semerut
Bontang
Sangkulirang
Longiram
Kotabaru
ParangTambunan
Keningau
TanjungBatu
Seria
Kalabakan
BeluranRanau
Tungku
KpgDatong
Tenom
KualaTomani
KotaBelud
Tutong
LimbangLabi
Papar
Lawas
Sipitang
Palopo
LahadDatu
Tarakan
Semporna
Kudat
Amuntai
Siasi
Palu
Tawau
Sandakan
Miri
Martapura
Samarinda
Berau
Kota Kinabalu
BANDARSERI
BEGAWAN
Loksado
Sepilok
Sapulot
Muara Wahau
Muara Teweh
Kayan MentarangNational Park
KutaiNationalPark
SebukuSembakung
National Park
Crocker RangeNational Park
GunungMulu
National Park
Turtle IslandsNational Park
Tunku AbdulRahman
National Park
Danum ValleyConservation
Area
Maliau BasinConservation
Area
Top Experiences ›
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – Jun 2013ISBN 978 1 74220 296 9© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Daniel RobinsonCoordinating Author, Plan Your Trip, Sarawak, Understand Borneo, Survival Guide Daniel has been covering Southeast Asia and its rainforests since 1989, when he researched Lonely Planet’s first, award-winning guides to Vietnam and Cambodia. On his many visits to Sarawak, he has developed a fondness for travelling ulu-ulu (way upriver) by longboat, tramping through the jungle in search of gargantuan Rafflesia flowers, and slurping Sarawak laksa. Daniel,
who holds a BA in Near Eastern Studies from Princeton University, writes on travel for a variety of magazines and newspapers, including the New York Times.
Adam KarlinDiving Pulau Sipadan, Sabah, Brunei Adam thinks Borneo is like a savage garden, which may explain why he loves it truly, madly, deeply. On this trip, his second exploring Sabah (and third exploring Malaysia) for Lonely Planet, he glimpsed primates, hiked jungle mountains, held his own in expat drinking games and floated on his back down a river through virgin rainforest a pretty good moment, that. He has written or contributed to some 30 titles for Lonely Planet.
Paul StilesKalimantan Paul specialises in islands, ecotourism, and adventure travel for Lonely Planet, so Kalimantan was a natural fit. For this book he completed the entire Cross-Borneo Trek, crossing the Muller Range in five days. His only regret is that he did not have his camera when a rare clouded leopard swam right in front of his boat. Guide: ‘I don’t know, looks like a wild cat… Oh my god, macan dahan!’
Read more about Daniel: lonelyplanet.com/members/daniel_robinson
Read more about Adam: lonelyplanet.com/members/adamkarlin
Read more about Paul: lonelyplanet.com/members/paulwstiles
Itiner-aries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
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Gunung GadingNational Park
AnnahRais
Kuching
SemenggohNatureReserve
BakoNational
ParkKuchingWetlands
National Park
Wind Cave&Fairy Cave
KALIMANTAN
SARAWAK
SOUTHCH INASEA
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One WeekKuching Excursions
Spend your first day in Kuching tuning into the vibe of the city’s kaleidoscopic mix of cultures and cuisines. Explore the narrow streets of Old Chinatown, ride a tiny passenger ferry to the English Renaissance–style Fort Margherita, and take a sunset stroll along the Waterfront Promenade. If it’s Saturday, head to the Satok Weekend
Market in the afternoon; if it’s Sunday, visit in the morning; and if a giant Rafflesia flower happens to be in bloom in Gunung Gading National Park, drop everything and rush over before it fades away. On the way back, explore the Wind Cave and the Fairy Cave. On other days, combine a daytime excursion with an evening enjoying Kuching’s fine eateries and chic but laidback nightlife. Spend a halfday spotting orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve, then drive further inland to the longhouse of Annah Rais, where you can stay overnight. Take a boat to Bako National Park, keeping an eye out for proboscis monkeys, macaques and pitcher plants as you hike around the peninsula. One day spend the sunset hour cruising around Kuching Wetlands National Park, alert for fireflies, crocs and proboscis monkeys.
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Area
Danum ValleyConservation
Area CELEBESSEA
SULU SEA
SOUTHCH INASEA
KALIMANTAN
SARAWAK
PHILIPPINES
SABAH
KotaKinabalu
TuaranKota Belud
PulauMantanani
Kudat
PulauBanggi
Sepilok
SungaiKinabatangan
SempornaArchipelago
Mt Kinabalu(4095m)
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Three WeeksAround Sabah
Arrive in Kota Kinabalu (KK) and give yourself two days to prebook accommodation in places like Sungai Kinabatangan, the Semporna Archipelago (if you plan on diving) and Mt Kinabalu – accommodation at the latter should ideally be booked before you get to Sabah. Whilst in KK, make sure to eat at the Night Market and take a
trip to the Mari Mari Cultural Village, Sabah Museum and Lok Kawi Wildlife Park – you can get a taste of the cultures, landscapes and animal life you’re about to encounter firsthand. Party on the KK waterfront your first night in town, but try to keep your head clear the morning you leave Sabah’s capital.
If you decide to climb Mt Kinabalu, it’s easiest to leave from KK. You’ll need to allow two to three days for the mountain – there’s the climb itself, and the day of rest you’ll need afterwards! Whether you climb the highest mountain in Borneo or not, give yourself a few days to explore northwest Sabah. In the vicinity of Tuaran you can visit a lovely water village, while in Kota Belud you can relax at Mañana guesthouse and see, if you time things right, the famous Sunday tamu (market). Heading north are the hidden beaches of Kudat, and offshore, the isolated, offthetouristtrail islands of Pulau Mantanani (easier to get to from Kota Belud) and Pulau Banggi. This area is great for homestays.
Now a little over a week into your trip, head east to Sepilok and its famous orangutan sanctuary. After watching our arboreal cousins being fed in a wildlife reserve, try to spot them in the wild during a river cruise down the Sungai Kinabatangan. There are great lodges and homestays out this way. Relaxing in these two spots could easily fill four days to a week. Now decide – do you want to finish by diving in the Semporna Archipelago? Or trekking in the Danum Valley or Maliau Basin? All of these options are possible, but to be practical and give these destinations the time they deserve, allow five days for each. If you want to both dive and see Danum or Maliau, cut out the days allotted above for exploring northwest Sabah.
31PLAN
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NiahNational Park
Gunung MuluNational Park
BRUNEI
SABAH
BANDAR SERIBEGAWAN
Miri
BatuNiah
Junction
Bintulu Orang UluLonghouses
Belaga
Kapit
Sibu
KuchingKALIMANTAN
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Three WeeksKuching to Brunei
Fly into Kuching and spend a few days exploring this multicultural minimetropolis, delving into its scrumptious cuisine scene for breakfast (Sarawak laksa), lunch and dinner. Take day trips to nearby national parks in search of orangutans, proboscis monkeys and exotic flora. Then hop on the daily express ferry to the mostly Chinese
river port of Sibu, where you can continue to eat well – don’t miss the Foochow specialities on offer in the vast Central Market.
Sibu serves as the gateway to the mighty Batang Rejang (Rejang River), the ‘Amazon of Borneo’. Board an earlymorning ‘flying coffin’ express boat and head upriver to Kapit, a bustling trading centre founded in the days of the White Rajahs. If the river level is high enough, continue on to backofbeyond Belaga, jumpingoff point for short treks to a number of fascinating Orang Ulu longhouses.
A bonejarring 4WD ride will get you down to the coastal city of Bintulu, Borneo’s natural gas capital. Avoid the lessthanfetching city centre and head straight to the beaches, rainforest trails and bungalows of oftoverlooked Similajau National Park, which stretches along the coast for 30km.
Hop on a bus heading northeast to Batu Niah Junction, situated just a few kilo metres from the vast caves, chirping bat colonies and prehistoric archaeological sites of Niah National Park. Next stop is the shiny petroleum city of Miri, home to a flourishing guesthouse scene that nicely complements the excellent dining options (especially fish). Chilling here amid mod cons is a great way to spend a day or two before flying into Borneo’s interior for a few days – travellers speak glowingly of both Gunung Mulu National Park, a Unesco World Heritage site, and the gorgeously green and amazingly friendly Kelabit Highlands.
After flying back to Miri, take a bus – or the newspaper delivery van – to Bandar Seri Begawan, the surprisingly laidback capital of the tiny, oilrich sultanate of Brunei. Several museums showcase Bruneian culture, and culinary creations can be enjoyed at BSB’s superb – and surprisingly inexpensive – hawker centres. End your Bornean odyssey back in the primeval rainforest by taking a speedboat, a car and finally a longboat to the pristine jungles of Ulu Temburong National Park.
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Pulau DerawanDerawanArchipelago
Pulau Maratua &Nunukan Island
WeheaForest
Samarinda
TenggarongJantur
Mancong &Longhouses
Balikpapan
Pegunungan Meratus(Meratus Mountains)
Loksado
Kandagan
Banjarmasin
PangkalanBun
Tanjung PutingNational Park
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SARAWAK
SULAWESI
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Three WeeksAround Kalimantan
Fly into Berau, preferably via hopping Balikpapan (where you can get your visa on arrival), and explore the nearby Derawan Archipelago, home to some worldclass diving. You can spend the night swapping stories with backpackers on Pulau Der-awan, or head to the littletouristed outer islands, like Pulau Maratua (backpacker
heaven) or tiny Nunukan Island, a resort perched on a blackened reef. Once back in Berau, head south to unspoiled Wehea Forest where you will find virgin rainforest at its very best. Look for rare wildlife and stay overnight in an ecolodge on a rushing stream. From there it’s on to exotic Samarinda, gateway to the Sungai Mahakam and home to an eyepopping mosque. Head upriver to Tenggarong, with its resplendent keraton (palace) and golden lembuswana (mythical winged creature with an elephant’s trunk); take a gailycoloured ces (longtail canoe) on an unforgettable journey through the marshes and waterways around Mancong; and overnight on a kapal biasa, a river ferry that acts like a floating hostel. Side trips to longhouses reveal local Dayak culture past and present. Don’t miss fascinating Jantur, a large town with riverside boardwalks on the edge of an enormous wetland. After returning to Balikpapan, take a bus to the pleasant village of Kandagan, gateway to the Pegunungan Meratus (Meratus Mountains), and then a car to Loksado, a charming mountain hamlet that will capture your heart, where you can equally enjoy trekking, bamboo rafting or doing nothing. Continue on to Banjarmasin, where you can catch the floating market in the early hours, then fly to Tanjung Puting National Park, where you can cruise the Sungai Sekonyer in search of wildlife and watch wild orangutans emerge from the forest to feed, in one of Indonesia’s most popular destinations. Then it’s onto nearby Pangkalan Bun airport, where you’ll wonder how you ever packed all that into three weeks.
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