Tim Atkin Wine Report Burgundy 2009

As it was in Bordeaux, the 2009 Burgundy

harvest has been hyped by wine merchants

desperate for much-needed turnover, but I think

the high praise is mostly justified. In 25 years of

tasting Burgundy, this is one of the greatest

vintages I’ve encountered. The best wines will

sell for exorbitant sums (and just wait for the

releases from Domaine Leroy and the Domaine

de la Romanée-Conti), but there are lots of

bargains, too.

Any serious lover of Burgundy (and especially

red Burgundy) will want a few cases of 2009 in

his or her cellar, but the wines deserve a wider,

less fanatical audience too. The best reds at every

price level are some of the sweetest, most

succulent Burgundies I have ever come across.

Anyone who enjoys good Pinot Noir will find

them difficult to resist. While less exciting, the

whites are good and sometimes delicious, too.

Now might not the best time to be spending

money on wine, but you won’t regret purchasing

such pleasurable bottles.

his 2009 Burgundy report represents the fruit of a month’s tasting, talking and writing in France and the UK. It’s my take on a very good and quite possibly brilliant vintage, although to paraphrase what Zhou Enlai said about the impact of the French Revolution, it may still be too early to tell. Following on from a well-received overview of 2009 Bordeaux, this is my first stab at an annual report on the most complex wine region on earth.

Page 01

2009 was a great vintage in Burgundy and

most of France, for that matter.

The wines are characterized by ripe, full-bodied

fruit flavours, low (or lowish) acidity and short-

to medium-term appeal. The very best wines will

age for longer than that, but this is a vintage to

drink and enjoy young.

This is a better vintage for red wines than

whites, although there are some wonderful

examples of the latter, especially from St Aubin

and Puligny-Montrachet, where the top wines are

sublime. For reds, my stand-out communes were

Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-St-Georges and

Vosne-Romanée.

Comparisons have been made, inevitably,

with 1999, but also with 2001, 1985, 1979

and 1959. The best wines are fantastic, but the

vintage is not uniform by any means. Is it ever in

Burgundy, where the structure of the vineyard

holdings and the multiplicity of owners militate

against generalisations? 2009 has a character of

its own, although it has things in common with

previous vintages.

This was a red wine vintage that was

equally good in the Côte de Beaune and the

Côte de Nuits. For the whites, the results were

more mixed, so much so that the crisper 2008s are

sometimes a better buy. The Côte Chalonnaise

performed well in 2009, but the Mâconnais and,

more surprisingly given its northerly location,

Chablis were less exciting. Beware of whites that

mature too quickly in bottle.

The vintageat a glance.

Page 02

TIM ATKIN MW 2009 BURGUNDY Special Report

This is a year when so-called lesser sites

(right down to generic level) often made

very drinkable wines, especially if they were

cooler and produced grapes with fresh acidity,

which was at a premium. In 2009, you can

afford to trade down and still drink well. There

are lots of really good wines under £20 a bottle,

the very territory where Burgundy sales have

been under threat from the likes of New

Zealand, Australia and Chile.

Compared with Bordeaux, prices are

reasonable; most producers increased

them by no more than 5-10%. You can buy

a case of Grand Cru red or white for less than

£1000 in bond, which is half to a quarter of the

price of the 2009 Bordeaux first growths and

super seconds. Quantities were bigger than in

2008 (and the red wines superior) so there

should be enough wine to go around, except

from the superstar domains. Speculation is less

rife in Burgundy than Bordeaux.

Some purists have sought to dismiss the

merits of 2009, arguing that the reds

lack complexity. They may not have the

structure of the 2005s, but they more than

make up for it in terms of sheer pleasure. Like

1982 in Bordeaux, these wines are deceptively

forward and have the power to age. That said,

this is a vintage for wine drinkers, not

Burgundy nerds. Pinot Noir at its best is all

about hedonism and 2009 provides it. Drink

your 2009s while you’re waiting for the 2005s

to soften in bottle.

You might choose to fill your cellar with

several cases of Bourgogne Rouge and

Hautes Côtes de Nuits, rather than a

six-pack of one Grand Cru. The difference

in quality is much narrower than in a cooler

year like 2004 or 2008, when well-exposed

sites generally made the best wines.

Dehydration and high alcohols were a

problem in some cases. Those who picked

early (or blocked the malolactic fermentations

on some tanks and barrels) generally made the

best wines. Over-ripeness is the Achilles’ heel of

2009, but that’s better than rot or green,

gum-stinging under-ripeness. And when I say

over-ripe, I’m not talking 2003, the worst

vintage of the last decade.

As ever, you should only buy from

merchants with a track record. Burgundy

doesn’t attract the same quantity of cowboys as

Bordeaux (partly because it doesn’t yield the

same easy profits), but it’s still worth pausing

before you part with your money up front. Most

of these wines will be shipped now or later this

year, so there is less of a time lag (and less

danger of someone absconding with your

money) than in Bordeaux. For UK punters, I

strongly recommend all of the 16 merchants

listed at the end of this report.

Page 03


These notes and scores need to be read for what they are: a snapshot in time. The wines that I tasted were young and, in many cases, unfinished wines, some of which won’t be bottled until later this year. Wines change in barrel, as well as bottle. It’s also worth remembering that, as in Bordeaux, the Burgundy en primeur extravaganza is a sales pitch. Producers would be crazy not to select their best barrels to show the press and the trade, although this is less prevalent than in the Gironde, partly because quantities are tiny.

There is also the small matter of human error.

Unlike some tasters, I am happy to admit that I

don’t always get things right, especially on days

when I’ve assessed more than 300 wines in

cramped London tasting conditions. That is one

of the many reasons I believe it is essential to

taste in the comparative peace and calm of

Burgundian cellars. For all its faults, this is an

honest appraisal of a very good vintage: a first

draft of history, if you like.

Inevitably, given the fragmentation of the

Burgundian trade, no one can taste everything

and visit everyone. Notable absentees in my

report are the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

(whose wines will be released in 2012), Domaine

Ramonet, Domaine Jean-Marie Raveneau,

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Domaine

Jean-François Coche-Dury, Domaine Leroy (I

only tasted the 2008s and two 2009s, but will

report on the rest in June) and Domaine Georges

Roumier. There’s always next year…

I tasted these wines in three tranches: in

Burgundy in September and December 2010 and

in London in January 2011 when I went to 16 en

primeur tastings put on by importers and

attended by growers. In some cases, I tasted the

same wine two, three or even four times over the

space of four months. Overall, I made notes on

more than 2,000 different wines.

Which ones do you need to know about?

Burgundy is infinitely more complicated than

Bordeaux. In the latter, a single château often

produces just three or four wines. In Burgundy, a

single domaine (not to mention négociant) could

easily make 20 or more. If I were to publish my

notes on 2,000 wines this report would run to

book length, which is not my aim. Instead I’ve

done the selection for you.

These are my favourite 200 wines of the vintage.

I’ve broken this down into 100 top reds, 50 top

whites and 50 wines under £250 in bond for

Burgundy lovers on a budget. Where I know the

exact price, or even prices, I have provided them.

Where the wine has no UK importer or has not

yet been shipped, I have used between one (£)

and five (£££££) pound signs to give you some

idea of what it will cost.

The UK importers of the 31 domaines and

négociants I visited in Burgundy as well as the

204 whose wine I tasted or retasted in London

are given in the list of producers, so your first

move should be to consult their websites. Prices

vary from merchant to merchant, so don’t be

afraid to haggle. Some of these wines will be in

very short supply and may even have sold out, so

be prepared to shop around to find the wines you

want. Trust me, it’s worth it.

Page 04


There is also the small matter of human error.

Unlike some tasters, I am happy to admit that I

don’t always get things right, especially on days

when I’ve assessed more than 300 wines in

cramped London tasting conditions. That is one

of the many reasons I believe it is essential to

taste in the comparative peace and calm of

Burgundian cellars. For all its faults, this is an

honest appraisal of a very good vintage: a first

draft of history, if you like.

Inevitably, given the fragmentation of the

Burgundian trade, no one can taste everything

and visit everyone. Notable absentees in my

report are the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

(whose wines will be released in 2012), Domaine

Ramonet, Domaine Jean-Marie Raveneau,

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Domaine

Jean-François Coche-Dury, Domaine Leroy (I

only tasted the 2008s and two 2009s, but will

report on the rest in June) and Domaine Georges

Roumier. There’s always next year…

I tasted these wines in three tranches: in

Burgundy in September and December 2010 and

in London in January 2011 when I went to 16 en

primeur tastings put on by importers and

attended by growers. In some cases, I tasted the

same wine two, three or even four times over the

space of four months. Overall, I made notes on

more than 2,000 different wines.

Which ones do you need to know about?

Burgundy is infinitely more complicated than

Bordeaux. In the latter, a single château often

produces just three or four wines. In Burgundy, a

single domaine (not to mention négociant) could

easily make 20 or more. If I were to publish my

notes on 2,000 wines this report would run to

book length, which is not my aim. Instead I’ve

done the selection for you.

These are my favourite 200 wines of the vintage.

I’ve broken this down into 100 top reds, 50 top

whites and 50 wines under £250 in bond for

Burgundy lovers on a budget. Where I know the

(Price, Importer - see page 40 for an explanation of the codes)A short tasting note and other pertinent information. Drink from date.

Have a look at the example below to see how I’ve organized the information for each wine.

exact price, or even prices, I have provided them.

Where the wine has no UK importer or has not

yet been shipped, I have used between one (£)

and five (£££££) pound signs to give you some

idea of what it will cost.

The UK importers of the 31 domaines and

négociants I visited in Burgundy as well as the

204 whose wine I tasted or retasted in London

are given in the list of producers, so your first

move should be to consult their websites. Prices

vary from merchant to merchant, so don’t be

afraid to haggle. Some of these wines will be in

very short supply and may even have sold out, so

be prepared to shop around to find the wines you

want. Trust me, it’s worth it.

Page 05

Producer Name, Region or Village, Vineyard


THE BEST OF THE BEST

Domaine Sylvain CathiardDomaine des Comtes LafonDomaine du Comte Liger-BelairDomaine Claude DugatDomaine FourrierDomaine Confuron-CotetidotDomaine de MontilleDomaine Jacques PrieurDomaine de la VougeraieDomaine Armand Rousseau

THE BEST VALUE PRODUCERS

Domaine Stéphane AladameDomaine Bertrand AmbroiseDmaine Robert ChevillonDomaine Françoise & Denis Clair Domaine Marc ColinDomaine Jean-Philippe FichetDomaine Pierre DamoyDomaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialDomaine Rossignol-TrapetDomaine Harmand-Geoffroy

TEN PRODUCERS TO WATCH

Olivier BernsteinDomaine Samuel BillaudDomaine David ClarkDomaine François FaiveleyDomaine Jean-Marc MillotDomaine Hudelot-Noëllat Domaine Frédéric MagnienDomaine Taupenot-MermeDomaine de la Pousse d’OrMaison Roche de Bellene

The bestof 2009.

Page 06


Winemakersof BurgundyPortraits by Tim Atkin

From left to right, top to bottom: Olivier Leriche, Pierre Vincent, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, Nadine Gublin, Claude Dugat, Dominique Lafon, Jean-Marie Fourrier, Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinière, Syvlain Cathiard, Kellen Lignier.

Page 07

From left to right, top to bottom: Frédéric Robert, Vincent Girardin, Patrick Landanger, Sylvain Pitiot, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Boris Champy, Eric Rémy, Jacques Seysses, Véronique Drouhin, Jacques Carillon, Richard Séguin.

Page 08

Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin(£££££, OWL; HR)I’ve no idea what the release price of this will be, but it’s worth it for perfection. Power, sweetness, silky tannins, seamless oak, vivacity, perfume and understated concentration. 5-10+ years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée (£9000, J&B) Sweet yet complex in the mouth, this hits you with wave after wave of flavours. Dense, concentrated, yet vibrantly fruity, with texture, tannin and smoky concentration. 10+ years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin(£895, C&B; £1005, Mo) Biodynamic viticulture and the use (for the first time) of one third whole bunch fermentation have contributed to the brilliance of this wine. Finesse, class and style. Beautifully balanced. 5-10 years.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de Bèze(£££££, OWL; HR)Darker and more structured than the Chambertin, with the oak more in evidence at this stage, but this is still a stunning wine: very fine and long, with good structure and velvety tannins. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin(£££££)The only Grand Cru in the Fourrier line up, this makes you wish he had more. Cinnamon oak and wild strawberry on the nose backed up by a savoury, spicy, structured, yet vivid palate. You wish he had more of them. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin(£££££, OWL; HR) There was no new oak on this 2009 to retain the freshness of one of the highest Grands Crus. This needs time, but has incredible persistence and elegance, with lovely savoury complexity. 5-10+ years

Page 09

Tim AtkinBurgundy 2009Top 100 Reds.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Romanée-St-Vivant(£3550, OWL)Cathiard only makes three barrels of this – which partly explains the price – but this is also his best wine: fresh, complex, structured, savoury, yet heart-stoppingly seductive. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Musigny(££££, BBR)All new oak, all de-stemmed (by hand) and an amazing result. Spicy and refined with restrained power, lovely poise and a finish that goes on for minutes. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Charmes-Chambertin, Les Mazoyères(£720, BBR)Inexpensive given the quality of the wine and the age of the vines (100 years), this is firm, sappy and powerful, with lots of whole bunch and a core of plum, chocolate and raspberry fruit. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin(£££££, GtW)Dense, concentrated and quite oaky from barrel (and there’s only one and half of them), this unfurls in the glass, with layer upon layer of flavour and a muscular, tannic finish. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin (£££££)Lalou Bize doesn’t want to show her 2009s until later this year, but she did let me sample this Grand Cru. Powerful, concentrated and tightly wound, but with incred-ible depth. 8-10+ years.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazis-Chambertin(£££££, OWL; HR)Aged in one year old oak, this is one of the most delicate Rousseau wines. Fresh and refined with wild strawberry and rose petal perfume, silky tannins and crisp mineral-ity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux (£1800, J&B)From the Vosne side of the cru, this is another spectacular wine from this rapidly improving domaine. Sweet, almost juicy red fruits, with violets on the nose and ripe, supple tannins. 5-10 years.

Maison Joseph Drouhin Griottes-Chambertin(£££££) Anyone who thinks of Drouhin as a white wine specialist should taste this. It’s quite muscular, but the liquorice, black fruits and sweet texture are beautifully balanced. 6-10+ years

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Chapelle-Chambertin (£650, C&B; £725, Mo)Another wonderful Grand Cru from this increasingly impressive domaine. The stemmy whole bunch character (20%) adds complexity and sap to the sweetness and purity of the wine. 3-8 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Charmes-Chambertin(£738, L&S)Typical of the very drinkable, sensuous wines from this domaine, this is succulent and complex with sweet Pinot fruit, understated oak and very fine tannins. Almost drinkable now. 1-7 years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée PC Les Suchots (£1150, OWL)Another outstanding wine from this brilliant domaine: intense, structured, vigorous with lots of smoky oak, fine tannins and sweet red and black fruits. Complex and long. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée-St-Vivant(£1850, Go; £2020, Lay)Essence of the refined H-N style, this is elegant, lightly oaked and very fine with silky, succulent raspberry fruit and gentle, sweet tannins. Utterly delicious and will improve in bottle. 3-10+ years.

Comte de Voguë Musigny(£££££, C &B) Just ahead of the Bonnes Mares in terms of complexity and perfume, this is a delicious Musigny, a wine that caresses the palate. Gentle fruit, seamless oak, lovely minerality and length. 4-10+ years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Chambertin (£££££) This old vine parcel has produced the best Prieur red, a herbal, aromatic, textured Pinot with grace and spice, fine tannins and layer upon layer of complexity and sweet fruit. 4-10+ years.

Domaine Faiveley Clos de Bèze (£1500, BBR)Youthful, racy and pure, this Grand Cru red exemplifies recent improvements at this producer. The wine is balanced, poised and complex, with amazing depth and palate length. 5-10+ years.

Clos de Tart (£££££, C&B) I tasted the six component parts of this wine from barrel, rather than the finished blend, but it’s potentially amazing, with real structure, perfumed oak and floral finesse. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St Georges PC Les Murgers (£900, BBR: £960, OWL; ££££, Go)One of the softer, sweeter wines in the Cathiard range in 2009, despite the low-yielding old vines. Soft, creamy and very fine with intense raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. 5-10+ years.

Olivier Bernstein Clos de Bèze (££££, BBR)Rich, aromatic, polished and textured, this marks a new high for this up-and-coming producer. Supple, summer pudding sweetness with fine-grained tannins and oak spice. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée PC En Orveaux (£897, L&W; Go) Old vines and 100% new oak, yet neither ponderous nor over-ripe, this shows supple berry fruit sweetness, complexity and freshness on the palate. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin PC Clos St Jacques (£1030, Mo; £1056, HR) The final blend has only 20% new oak, so as not to overwhelm the fruit. Fennel, red fruits, some cedarwood and ginger spice are all intertwined on the palate. Long and complete. 5-10+ years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée PC Petits Monts (£1300, J&B) This comes from a parcel next to Richebourg and is a great wine. Savoury, sweet oak, fine tannins, deep colour, red cherry and raspberry fruit, hint of smoke and haunting balance. 5-10 years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée PC Aux Reignots (£1450, J&B) Often a little closed in its youth, this is just beginning to display its wares: energy, bright fruit, crunchy acidity, silky concentration and lovely, supple length. 5-10+ years.

Olivier Bernstein Clos de Vougeot (££££, BBR) This mini-négociant in Gevrey is making some stunning reds at the moment. This is a big, strapping wine with lots of oak and luscious flavours of plum and spice underpinned by acidity. 6-10+ years.

Domaine Frédéric Magnien Bonnes Mares (££££)Very much a modern style, but this is an extrmely polished red, which carries its 80% new oak with ease. Youthful, black fruits, mid-weight tannins, fresh acidity and a firm finish. 5-10+ years.

Vincent Girardin Corton Renardes (£££, Bib) Vincent Girardin reduced the amount of new oak here in 2009 to allow the fruit to sing. It’s got good structure, with smoky oak, aromatic plum and black cherry fruit and fine tannins. 4-10 years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon PC Volnay Santenots (££££, BBR) One of a number of excellent Volnays from Dominique Lafon in 2009. Violets and red cherries on the nose, sweet fruit on the palate with crunchy acidity and plush tannins. 5-10 years.

Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée PC Aux Malconsorts (££££)From a vineyard on the edge of La Tâche, this is appealingly edgy, adding freshness to the sweet Vosne fruit. Silky, leafy and complex with crisp underlying acidity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux (£655, Lay; £700, Ar) An approachably-priced Grand Cru from a domaine that excelled in 2009. Elegant, toasty and beautifully-framed Pinot with length, balance, sweet fruit and grip. 4-10+ years.

Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons (£720, BBR) Deeply coloured, yet very aromatic and open with violets and plums on the nose. The palate is poised and well balanced, with smoky oak and intense raspberry and hedgerow fruits. 5-10 years.

Domaine L& A Lignier Clos de la Roche (£990, FW) A low-yielding triumph from Kellen Lignier that will take some time to come around. Strapping, smoky and very serious, yet with sweet, voluptuous red fruits and balancing acidity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays (£795, Lay; £843, L&S; £850, HH&C, Go)There’s no denying the slight stalkiness in this wine from partial whole bunch fermentation, but it’s a very complex Pinot, with masses of savoury depth and a smoky, nuanced finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Taupenot Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin (£750, Ar)One of the discoveries of my recent Burgundy visit, this organic domaine has made some great 2009s. This smoky, spicy, complex, brambly, concentrated Grand Cru is delicious. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Bonnes Mares (££££)Tasted from barrel in December 2010, this was the star wine at this revitalised domaine: slick, harmonious and scented with freshness, balance and an undertow of tannin. 4-10 years.

Domaine Dujac Clos-St Denis (££££)Very low yields in 2009 because of hail before flowering resulted in extra concentra-tion here. Sappy and stemmy but with silky, ripe fruit and complex earthy and animal undertones. 5-10 years.

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Clos de Vougeot (£785, Go)A wine with the structure to age well, this is quite dense at the moment with plummy black fruit and chocolate on the palate, toasty coffee bean oak and impressive texture. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin Premiers Crus (£££, GtW)A blend of two Premiers Crus, this is the wine to go for if you’re looking for a bargain chez Dugat. Elegant, balanced and nutmeg spicy, it’s fresh, sweetly oaked and very harmonious. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Clos de Vougeot (£720, Ar)Very pure and refined, especially for a Clos de Vougeot, with a lovely tension between acidity and juicy, lip-smacking fruit flavours. Very harmonious and long. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Taupenot-Merme Corton Rognet (£525, Ar)This is only the fifth vintage from this site, but it’s clearly a winner. Smoky and clothed in oak at present, but with sweet, wild strawberry and bramble fruit and fresh acidity beneath. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux (£840, HR)Sourced from two different parts of the cru (high and low), this is a powerful wine with plenty of tannin and extraction backed up by bright acidity and velvety, sweet fruit. 5-10 years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée PC Aux Malconsorts (£1290, BBR; £1390, OWL)Very closed when I tasted it from barrel, and again in London, this is dense, chewy and quite firm, especially for the vintage, but it has amazing depth and concentra-tion. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de Montille Pommard PC Pézerolles (£535, OWL; £540, BBR)Sourced from what can be one of the most tannic crus in Pommard, this is surpris-ingly pale and aromatic in 2009. It’s also very elegant, with sweet tannins, stylish oak and great length. 4-10 years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Latricières-Chambertin (£725, Mo; £732, BBR) A site that generally does well in warmer years, this is light, refreshing and refined with supple sweetness, lovely perfume and a complex, tapering finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot (£720, BBR)Pierre Vincent is making some fantastic wines at Vougeraie right now, typified by this sweetly-oaked Grand Cru. Pure, very fine, minerally and complex with very forward red fruit flavours. 3-8 years.

Domaine Géantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin (£775, Go)Very aromatic, with the ripe fruit flavours that are typical of the vintage. Lots of oak and structure too, with savoury depth and sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit. Still a baby. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin (£900, FW)This may not age for decades, but who’s counting? It’s so delicious right now that it’s irresistible: fleshy, harmonious and supple with sweet tannins and great length. 3-8 years.

Château de La Tour, Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (£1195, C&B)Firm and concentrated, with masses of underlying fruit power, opulent tannins, smoky oak and impressive old vine concentration. A Clos de Vougeot that is worthy of the name. 5-15 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne-Romanée PC Les Suchots (£475, OWL; £490, FW)Still a little backward when I tasted it in January, but there’s no denying the quality here: leafy, quite firm, with marked acidity for the vintage and a fresh, tangy finish. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Chambolle-Musigny (££)A third of this wine is made up of declassified Premiers Crus, which may well explain its quality. Stylish cherry and raspberry fruit, ripe tannins, subtle oak and a balletic finish. 2-6 years.

Domaine Duroché Latricières-Chambertin (£500, FW)Great value for a Grand Cru in such a good vintage, this is the best of Pierre’s wines in 2009. Stylish and concentrated, with savoury tannins and old vine fruit adding profundity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin (£580, GWe; £650, BI)A touch of reduction on the nose, but this deeply coloured wine needs time in bottle. It’s a complex red with fine tannins, considerable depth of fruit and impressive concentration. 5-10+ years.

Domaine L&A Lignier, Morey-St-Denis PC Romain Lignier (£650, FW)Eighty per cent new oak might sound like a lot for a Premier Cru, but this one can take it. Concentrated red and black fruits, lots of glycerol, a hint of stem and sappy freshness. 4-10 years.

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Volnay PC Clos de la Bousse d’Or (£480, HR)The signature wine from this Volnay domaine (and the Bousse is correct) is a wine for long ageing: serious, oaky, yet aromatic with rich fruit and structured, firm tannins. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Chambolle Musigny PC Derrière la Grange (£531, L&S)One of a string of deliciously approachable 2009s from this domaine, this is a little oak-dominated but has sweet raspberry and red cherry fruit in abundance. Elegant and complex. 2-6 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Gevrey-Chambertin PC Lavaut St Jacques (£475, OWL)Deeply coloured and concentrated, this wine is still holding something in reserve. It’s rich and powerful with firm black cherry and vanilla notes and plush tannins. 5-10 years.

Domaine des Lambrays, Morey St Denis PC Loups (£495, Go; £518, FW)Not far behind the Clos de Lambrays, but at just over half the price, this is savoury and slightly green with juicy, brambly fruit and some grip on the finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Humbert Frères Gevrey-Chambertin PC Estournelles-St-Jacques (£669, L&W)The pick of the wines from the Humbert brothers (Humbert Humbert, as it were) this is a very complete wine, approachable now, with sweet fruit and oak and smoky oak. 2-8 years.

Domaine de Montille Volnay PC Taillepieds (£575, OWL, BBR; £590, FW) The spiciest and most mineral of the de Montille PCs in 2009 (as it often is in other years), this is dense and spicy with some sappy, tomato leaf notes and a fresh, savoury finish. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay PC Champans (£480, Mo)A wine that really sings in 2009, this is one of the best Champans I’ve tasted from this domaine. Balanced, profound and opulent with sweet cherry and loganberry fruit and a fresh finish. 5-8 years.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay PC Clos des Angles (£395, Ar) The freshness of the d’Angerville style worked well in 2009, as it did in 2003. This is subtle, perfumed and almost transparent in its expression of terroir. Balanced and fine. 3-10 years

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny PC Charmes (£560, Go; £590, FW) Supple, fragrant, well balanced: the sort of thing that makes Pinot drinkers go weak at the knees. Elegant, finely balanced, complex and harmonious. Now-6 years.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin PC Les Cherbaudes (£450, Ar; HR)Sourced from rocky soils where “nothing grows” according to Jean-Marie Fourrier, this is silky and violet-scented with delicate fruit flavours, a touch of aniseed and fine tannins. 3-8 years.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin PC Cham-peaux (£570, Go) Darker and denser than many of the Fourrier 2009s, with more marked tannins than some, this is rich and opulent on the palate with well-integrated oak and a stylish finish. 5-10+ years

Domaine Anne & Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny PC Fuées (£450, Ar)Lovely, scented Chambolle – can one detect a feminine touch here? – with sweet, aromatic oak stitched into the texture of the wine. Savoury, complex and supple. 2-5+ years

Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits St Georges PC, Clos des Forêts St Georges (£468, HR, Go; £495, C&B)A little closed at the moment perhaps, but this is dark and brooding with succulent black fruits, marked whole bunch character, sweet oak and considerable depth and structure. 3-10 years

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée PC Les Beaumonts (£495, Go; £550, Bib)The best of the HN Vosne Premiers Crus, succulent and spicy, this is very fragrant and deceptively forward and silky. The perfume is lovely now, but will develop further in bottle. 3-10 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne-Romanée PC Suchots (£426, L&S)No apologies for choosing another Confuron-Cotetidot wine. This is sweet, seductive and slightly sappy with supple, easy-drinking fruit and the underlying structure to develop in bottle. 3-8 years.

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos de Bèze (£825, Lay; £835, Go; £860, J&B)A wine in which the quality of the vineyard really shines through, this is a bold, textured Grand Cru with ripe aromas, lovely cherry and raspberry fruit and polished tannins. 4-10+ years.

Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-St-Georges PC Clos de l’Arlot (£465, Go; £495, C&B)Open, appealing and attractive on the nose, this is delicate, elegant and aromatic, with notes of violet, wild strawberry and a savoury minerality. Very drinkable. 1-5 years.

Masion Roche de Bellène Bonnes Mares (£1250, Go)The best red from Nicolas Potel’s new négociant business, this is wild, dense and savoury with some stemmy whole bunch notes and smoky oak. Needs time to settle. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Daniel Rion Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Hauts Pruliers (£405, Mo) Pale in colour and comparatively forward, with the freshness that comes from a cooler site, this is stylish and refreshing with juicy berry fruit and a nip of tannin. 3-6 years.

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard PC Les Fremiers (£426, L&S)Arguably more Volnay than Pommard in style – but that’s 2009 for you in some ways – this is stylish and harmonious with balanced red fruits and wonderful palate length. 3-8 years.

Domaine de Courcel Pommard PC Grand Clos des Epenots (£474, L&S)One of the leading names in Pommard on stellar form. Quite tannic and sturdy at the moment, but still made in a modern style. One to tuck away for a few years as it develops. 5-10 years.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits-St-Georges PC Aux Boudots (£960, L&W) Made in a characteristically modern style, this comes from the border with Vosne and is very silky and seductive, with supple tannins, lovely balance and bramble and violet fruit. 3-8 years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (£265, Mo)Sourced from 45-year-old vines, this wine comes from the domaine’s most venerable parcels. It shows, too: a very serious village level wine, with plenty of body and texture. 3-7 years.

Domaine Joseph Voillot Pommard PC Rugiens (£455, Go) This Volnay-based domaine makes lovely Pommards, too. This is a little closed right now, but has real presence and depth with sweet, plump dark fruits and well-integrated oak. 3-10+ years. z

Maison Camille Giroud Corton Le Rognet (£510, BBR)One of a number of very well made wines from this small négociant house. This is which and full flavoured, with evident whole bunch character and lovely Pinot freshness and aromas. 3-8+ years.

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey-Chambertin PC La Boissière (£315, GWe; £325, BI)Intense, youthful and very well priced for a Premier Cru of this quality, this is rich and fruit packed with sweet oak and fine-grained tannins adding to the complexity. 3-8 years.

Domaine Louis Boillot Geverey-Chambertin PC Champonnets (£395, Go)An old vine Gevrey Premier Cru that encapsulates the ripeness of the vintage, but remains fresh and sappy at the same time. Aromatic, stylish and very pure, with understated oak. 3-8 years.

Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny Lès Beaune, Les Bourgeots (£225, Ar)There’s a freshness and purity to Patrick Bize’s wines that works really well in 2009, adding a raciness to the fruit. Elegant, light and delicate with purity and sweet fruit. 3-7 years.

Domaine des Clos Beaune PC Grèves (£220, Ar)This is certainly a gutsy, concentrated wine with quite a bit of tannin for the vintage, but the oak adds sweetness, while the underlying fruit is ripe, supple and textured. 5-8+ years.

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin PC Lavaux-St-Jacques (£288, HR)Like many of the wines from this cooler Premier Cru, there’s a lovely vivacity to this wine in 2009. Elegant, long and yet very plush with wild strawberry notes and a bright finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Volnay PC Caillerets (£315, OWL)Alex Moreau tried 25% whole bunch fermentation for the first time in 2009 and it worked. This is bright and slightly sappy with elegant tannins and appealing, brambly fruit. 5-8 years

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Chaignots (£450, HH&C)Extremely aromatic and polished for a NSG, with leafy elegance, stylish tannins and supple red fruits. The sort of wine you want to glug straight from the bottle. Now-5 years.

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny PC Les Baudes (£630, BBR)My favourite wine from this reliable domaine in 2009, showing more fruit and texture than other bottlings. Aromatic, elegant and refreshing, with fine tannins and appealing vivacity. 2-8 years.

Domaine Faiveley Volnay PC Frémiets (£305, HH & C)Typical of recent improvements at Faiveley. Bold and expressive on the palate with freshness, texture and hints of warm earth, black olives and sweet new oak. 3-5 years Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (£260, Ar; £270, HR)For Fourrier lovers on a budget (and they are growing in number by the vintage) this entry point Gevrey is a must: forward, elegant and silky with cherry and raspberry fruit. 2-8 years.

Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Vaucrains (£490, J&B)My favourite wine from this ever reliable domaine in 2009. Smoky, brambly and fruit forward with textured, underlying tannins, a hint of earthiness and intense black cherry and raspberry. 3-8 years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin PC La Petite Chapelle (£425, C&B) Yet another impressive wine from this Gevrey-based biodynamic domaine, with stylish oak, balanced, sappy red and black fruits and the underlying richness to age in bottle. 3-8 years

Domaine Pierre Labet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (£295, C&B)There isn’t much of this (300 cases) but if you can find some, buy it because it’s textbook Gevrey: rich, savoury and complex with spicy blueberry and strawberry fruit and plush tannins. Now-5 years.

Domaine de Courcel Pommard PC Les Rugiens (£578, FW)Pretty serious Pommard, especially at the price. This will need a little time to settle in bottle and lose its slightly firm edge, but it’s supported by ripe, plummy fruit and sweet oak. 4-10 years.

Domaine Jean Tardy Nuits St Georges Bas de Combe (£285, BI)The new generation has continued the fine work of the old here. This comes from a 60-year-old parcel and it’s deliciously aromatic, harmonious and silky with a touch of Vosne about it. 3-8 years.

Domaine Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny (£280, BI)A textbook Chambolle showing the village’s celebrated elegance and perfume. This is hauntingly sweet and perfumed, with supple wild strawberry fruit, subtle oak and fresh acidity. 1-5 years.

Domaine Daniel Rion Vosne-Romanée (£285, Mo)Great value village level Vosne from this NSG-based estate. A very pretty, aromatic wine with no obvious oak, sweet berry fruit and a pure, silky finish. 2-5 years.

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Volnay PC Caillerets (£453, L&S)The excessive oak that sometimes marred earlier vintages has gone to be replaced by a sure and confident touch. Minerality and freshness underpin the sweet, savoury fruit here. 2-7 years.








Page 10













































































































Page 11





































































































Page 12





































































































Page 13





































































































Page 14





































































































Page 15





































































































Page 16





































































































Page 17





































































































Page 18





































































































Page 19





































































































Page 20





































































































Page 21





































































































Page 22























































































Domaine Louis Carillon Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet(£1905, Mo; £££££, L&W)This domaine may be about to be split in two, but this is a fitting tribute to its last year as a single entity. Two barrels only, but a wine of celestial complexity, poise and minerality. 3-10+ years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Le Montrachet (£££££, BBR) Allocations will be tiny (ditto production at six barrels) but this is one of my whites of the vintage. Spicy, bone dry, elegant and minerally with a hint of green malt and amazing richness. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Chevalier-Montrachet (£1,650, Lay)Made from vines in the southern part of the cru, this is a stunning wine: savoury, tangy and mouth-wateringly fresh with understated toasty oak and almost feral complexity. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Le Montrachet (£3,310, Lay)Also wonderful, but twice the price of the Chevalier. This was a little more closed in December 2010, but with complex notes of lees, vanilla, cinnamon spice and untapped power. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots Bâtard Montrachet(£870, Ar; £890, OWL)Given the price of similar quality wines, this is one of the (comparative) bargains of the vintage. Complex, “matchstick” reduction, mineral purity and unbelievable palate length. 5-10+ years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault PC Charmes (£££, BBR)This isn’t far behind the quality of this domaine’s Le Montrachet in 2009. Sweet, powerful, spicy and succulently oaked with muscularity, minerality and tension on the palate. 3-8+ years.

Page 23

Tim AtkinBurgundy 2009Top 50 Whites.

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet (£2500, Lay; Ar)The best of the wines from this legendary domaine in 2009. It’s comparatively forward and ripe, with floral, honey and orange peel notes yet racy underlying acidity and texture. 3-8 years

Joseph Drouhin Le Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche (£3395, J&B; £3600, BBR)Produced in comparatively large quantities (36 barrels), this is one of a number of brilliant Drouhin whites in 2009. Smoky, textured, and with some grip for a white. Fresh finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard Montrachet (£920, Ar)The Grands Crus from this domaine are a thing of wonder in 2009. The Bâtard is complex and profound with masses of fruit and creamy oak and a teasing, chalky minerality. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Jean Noël Gagnard Bâtard Montrachet (£1490, J&B)The pick of Caroline Lestimé’s impressive range in 2009, this is mind-blowingly complex: rich, multi-faceted, with notes of butter, honey, nut and spice and a piercing, minerally finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Bâtard Montrachet (£1450, Go)Not cheap, but this is a very impressive Grand Cru, with layer after layer of flavour on the palate. Intense, focused, exotic but with lovely spine of fresh acidity. 3-10+ years

Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne (£830, Go; C&B)This can be a little closed when young, but it was a stunner from barrel. Powerful, quite oaky, with flavours of hazelnut and honey underpinned by taut acidity and focused minerality. 3-10 years

Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet(£1900, Lay; Ar; J&B)Very concentrated, with lime blossom and intense fruit on the nose. Lovely mineral-ity and tension on the palate, with flavours of peach, grapefruit and pear and plenty of power. 3-10 years.

Domaine Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne (££££)The best wine from Latour’s own vineyards in 2009. The nose is a little oaky, but there’s plenty of texture, honeyed richness and spice on the palate, even for a Corton-Charlemagne. 4-10 years.

Domaine Faiveley Bâtard Montrachet (£1560, BBR)Shows that the “new” Faiveley is equally adept at top whites as reds. An exotic white, with aniseed, a touch of tropical fruit, cashew nut and sappy, citrus-like freshness. 5-8+ years.

Domaine Rémi Rollin Corton-Charlemagne (£630, J&B) One of the best Corton-Charlemagnes I’ve tasted from this domaine: rich yet restrained with subtle oak, zesty acidity and notes of vanilla spice and stone and citrus fruit. 3-8 years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre (£££) The lieu dit around the cellar is one of the best in Meursault and 2009 was no exception. Jasmine-scented, with a hint of chalky limestone, vanilla oak and a minerally, fresh finish. 3-10 years.

Vincent Girardin Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet (££££) Acquired with the Henri Clerc domaine, this is Girardin’s best white in 2009: an approachable Grand Cru white with pear and citrus fruit, tangy acidity and a long, toasty finish. 3-8 years.

Joseph Drouhin Beaune PC Clos des Mouches (£560, J&B; £570, BBR)Given the choice between six cases of this or one of Le Montrachet, I know which I’d pick. Aromatic, almost rose petal notes, grapefruit and spice, with lingering mineral-ity. 3-8 years.

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet PC Les Perrières(£485, OWL; £459, HH & C; £500, J&B)The Sauzet wines are particularly good in 2009, typified by the length, minerality and seamless integration of this Premier Cru. Long and stylish. Now-7 years.

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet PC Champ-Canet (£545, OWL; £580, J&B)Another impressive PC, this time with a little more fruit expression, with some pear, citrus and floral notes. Once again, the finish is taut and elegant, giving the wine real definition. Now-5 years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Caillerets (£360, Ar; £415,Bib) This has some of the grace and minerality of the domaine’s Grands Crus, but at half the price. Elegant, slightly reductive style with chalky freshness and length. 2-8 years

Domaine Roulot Meursault PC Charmes (£850, Ar)The price may be a little steep – especially when you set it alongside Roulot’s Bourgogne Blanc – but there’s no denying that this a wonderful wine: rich, nutty, aromatic and very fresh. Now-5+ years

Domaine Jean Noël Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC Caillerets (£520, J&B; £540, BBR)Often the best value wine from this popular domaine, this is particularly good in 2009. Open and accessible with bags of concentration, subtle oak and nutty palate length. 3-8 years.

Domaine Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne (£810, L&S)Very focused, yet still powerful and concentrated, this is fresh and tangy with subtle notes of oak spice, citrus fruit and fresh cashew and a long, stylish finish. Very long. 3-8 years.

Domaine Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet PC Les Referts (£466, L&W)Fresh, crisp and taut, this gives the lie to the opinion that the 2009 whites won’t age. It’s dry and almost salty with honeyed spice, a touch of pink grapefruit and under-stated power. 4-10 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Tesson (£365, Go)The richest of Fichet’s lieux dits, this is all honeysuckle and pear on the palate, with taut acidity restraining its more exuberant tendencies. Fresh, stylish and integrated. Bargain. 2-8 years

Domaine Patrick Javillier Corton Charlemagne (£780, Go)A rich, powerful, well-upholstered Corton with lots of oak but the structure and concentration to soak it up. Ripe, honeyed, but not fat in any way. Finishes with tangy acidity. 3-10+ years

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne-Montrachet PC Chenevottes (£395, Go)Undoubtedly one of the superstar domaines of the vintage. This is chalky, refreshing and subtly oaked with pear and citrus fruit and a long, refreshing finish. A must buy at the price. Now-6 years

Domaine Jean Noël Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC La Boudriotte(£396, BBR)White flowers on the nose leading to a full, spicy, well-balanced palate with crunchy acidity, a touch of honey and a long, nuanced, lightly oaked finish. Very appealing. Now-8 years.

Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Les Clos (£498, HR; £510, Lay; £525, Ar)The most powerful of the Fèvre Grands Crus, this is a Chablis for the long term. It’s rich, oaky and slightly honeyed but with lovely underlying precision, length and minerality. 3-8+ years

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet PC Clos de la Mouchère(£480, L&S)A really well chosen négociant wine, with classic Puligny sap and minerality, this is beautifully balanced, with nuanced oak, tangy acidity and a smoky undertone. 2-7 years.

Château de Puligny-Montrachet Meursault PC Perrières (£498, BBR)Appropriately for a Meursault, there’s more richness than in the château’s Puligny wines here, but there’s also some Puligny freshness. Rich and creamy but with real zing and balance. Now-5 years.

Maison Alex Gambal Meursault PC Genevrières (£425, OWL)American ex-pat Gambal is making better wines with every vintage. This toasty, grilled hazelnut-scented Meursault is spot on, with a hint of struck match and well integrated oak. 2-6 years.

Domaine Philippe Colin, Puligny-Montrachet PC Demoiselles(£696, L&W)This vineyard is situated right next to Le Montrachet and has something of the Grand Cru’s power and depth. Lovely sweet stone fruit, spicy oak and a long, complex finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Chartron Puligny-Montrachet PC, Clos du Cailleret (£500, Bib)Owned entirely by the domaine, this is a little marked by oak at the moment, but very fine underneath, with focused vanilla and citrus fruit flavours and mouth-watering length. 2-6 years.

Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault PC Genevrières (£420, L&S)This is the best of Jobard’s 2009 releases, a Meursault that has considerable honeyed richness and weight, but is balanced by acidity and spicy oak. A delicious mouthful. 2-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet PC Champ Canet (£465, Bib)Named after a family that owned the vineyard in the 19th century, this vineyard often produces wines with concentration and structure. Stylish, sweetly oaked and long. 2-6 years.

Maison Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault PG Genevrières (£440, Ar)Undoubtedly the bargain wine in the Bouchard white wine line up, this is very floral and faintly exotic, with a honeysuckle perfume and a mealy undertone. Fresh, balanced and refined. 2-7 years

Domaine Michel Bouzerau Meursault PC Perrières (£492, BBR)A full-bodied, powerful Meursault that has more than enough peach, honey and pear fruit to soak up the new oak. Rich, concentrated, textured and long. 2-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Paul Droin Chablis GC Les Clos (£330, Go)Less oaky than they used to be, these wines are now some of the best in Chablis. This is typically bold and powerful, but with minerally acidity and mouth-watering length. 3-8 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet PC Grandes Ruchottes(£450, FW)One of an impressive line-up of wines from Alex Moreau in 2009, this is a very fine Chassagne, made from 80-year-old vines. Complex, intense and sweetly oaked with a fine, minerally finish. 2-8 years

Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray (£320, Lay)This is only a lieu dit (albeit a wholly owned one), but it punches above its weight. Savoury, wild yeast-derived aromas, a touch of grapeskin, some aniseed and honeyed spice. 2-6 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Chenevottes(£365, Mo)Ambitiously oaked, but with enough old vine concentration to cope, this is a wine to cellar. Rich and powerful, with considerable style and underlying complexity. 3-8 years.

Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault Le Tesson (£480, J&B)A lieu dit, as opposed to a Premier Cru, but still a really smart Meursault: focused, yet intense with spice, elegance and freshness and a creamy mid-palate. 2-6 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Le Meix sous le Château(£285, Go)For an entry level village wine, this is wonderful value. It’s surprisingly fresh for the vintage – all citrus fruit ping – with notes of fennel and aniseed and a fine, lengthy finish. 3-8 years

Château de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes (£239, OWL; £265, Lay)The château blocked the malolactics on a third of its production in 2009 and it certainly paid off in this wine. Honeyed and complex with lovely length and tangy acidity. Now-5 years.

Domaine Ballot-Millot Meursault PC Charmes (£410, FW)Definitely at the more refined end of the Meursault spectrum, this has a touch of Puligny minerality to it. It’s beautifully balanced with citrus and orange peel aromas and understated spice. 3-8 years.

Domaine Hubert Lamy St Aubin PC En Remilly (£270, BBR)Made from unusually low yields (for 2009), this is a delicious St Aubin, showing the freshness and minerality of the village in 2009. Elegant and refined with a hint of fennel. Now-5 years.

Domaine Henri Darnat Puligny-Montrachet (£265, C&B)A bio-dynamic estate that defied conventional wisdom in 2009 and picked late. Not that it shows in this floral, zesty, minerally, old oak-aged Puligny. Now-5 years


Domaine Louis Carillon Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet(£1905, Mo; £££££, L&W)This domaine may be about to be split in two, but this is a fitting tribute to its last year as a single entity. Two barrels only, but a wine of celestial complexity, poise and minerality. 3-10+ years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Le Montrachet (£££££, BBR) Allocations will be tiny (ditto production at six barrels) but this is one of my whites of the vintage. Spicy, bone dry, elegant and minerally with a hint of green malt and amazing richness. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Chevalier-Montrachet (£1,650, Lay)Made from vines in the southern part of the cru, this is a stunning wine: savoury, tangy and mouth-wateringly fresh with understated toasty oak and almost feral complexity. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Le Montrachet (£3,310, Lay)Also wonderful, but twice the price of the Chevalier. This was a little more closed in December 2010, but with complex notes of lees, vanilla, cinnamon spice and untapped power. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots Bâtard Montrachet(£870, Ar; £890, OWL)Given the price of similar quality wines, this is one of the (comparative) bargains of the vintage. Complex, “matchstick” reduction, mineral purity and unbelievable palate length. 5-10+ years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault PC Charmes (£££, BBR)This isn’t far behind the quality of this domaine’s Le Montrachet in 2009. Sweet, powerful, spicy and succulently oaked with muscularity, minerality and tension on the palate. 3-8+ years.

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet (£2500, Lay; Ar)The best of the wines from this legendary domaine in 2009. It’s comparatively forward and ripe, with floral, honey and orange peel notes yet racy underlying acidity and texture. 3-8 years

Joseph Drouhin Le Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche (£3395, J&B; £3600, BBR)Produced in comparatively large quantities (36 barrels), this is one of a number of brilliant Drouhin whites in 2009. Smoky, textured, and with some grip for a white. Fresh finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard Montrachet (£920, Ar)The Grands Crus from this domaine are a thing of wonder in 2009. The Bâtard is complex and profound with masses of fruit and creamy oak and a teasing, chalky minerality. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Jean Noël Gagnard Bâtard Montrachet (£1490, J&B)The pick of Caroline Lestimé’s impressive range in 2009, this is mind-blowingly complex: rich, multi-faceted, with notes of butter, honey, nut and spice and a piercing, minerally finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Bâtard Montrachet (£1450, Go)Not cheap, but this is a very impressive Grand Cru, with layer after layer of flavour on the palate. Intense, focused, exotic but with lovely spine of fresh acidity. 3-10+ years

Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne (£830, Go; C&B)This can be a little closed when young, but it was a stunner from barrel. Powerful, quite oaky, with flavours of hazelnut and honey underpinned by taut acidity and focused minerality. 3-10 years

Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet(£1900, Lay; Ar; J&B)Very concentrated, with lime blossom and intense fruit on the nose. Lovely mineral-ity and tension on the palate, with flavours of peach, grapefruit and pear and plenty of power. 3-10 years.

Domaine Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne (££££)The best wine from Latour’s own vineyards in 2009. The nose is a little oaky, but there’s plenty of texture, honeyed richness and spice on the palate, even for a Corton-Charlemagne. 4-10 years.

Domaine Faiveley Bâtard Montrachet (£1560, BBR)Shows that the “new” Faiveley is equally adept at top whites as reds. An exotic white, with aniseed, a touch of tropical fruit, cashew nut and sappy, citrus-like freshness. 5-8+ years.

Domaine Rémi Rollin Corton-Charlemagne (£630, J&B) One of the best Corton-Charlemagnes I’ve tasted from this domaine: rich yet restrained with subtle oak, zesty acidity and notes of vanilla spice and stone and citrus fruit. 3-8 years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre (£££) The lieu dit around the cellar is one of the best in Meursault and 2009 was no exception. Jasmine-scented, with a hint of chalky limestone, vanilla oak and a minerally, fresh finish. 3-10 years.

Vincent Girardin Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet (££££) Acquired with the Henri Clerc domaine, this is Girardin’s best white in 2009: an approachable Grand Cru white with pear and citrus fruit, tangy acidity and a long, toasty finish. 3-8 years.

Joseph Drouhin Beaune PC Clos des Mouches (£560, J&B; £570, BBR)Given the choice between six cases of this or one of Le Montrachet, I know which I’d pick. Aromatic, almost rose petal notes, grapefruit and spice, with lingering mineral-ity. 3-8 years.

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet PC Les Perrières(£485, OWL; £459, HH & C; £500, J&B)The Sauzet wines are particularly good in 2009, typified by the length, minerality and seamless integration of this Premier Cru. Long and stylish. Now-7 years.

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet PC Champ-Canet (£545, OWL; £580, J&B)Another impressive PC, this time with a little more fruit expression, with some pear, citrus and floral notes. Once again, the finish is taut and elegant, giving the wine real definition. Now-5 years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Caillerets (£360, Ar; £415,Bib) This has some of the grace and minerality of the domaine’s Grands Crus, but at half the price. Elegant, slightly reductive style with chalky freshness and length. 2-8 years

Domaine Roulot Meursault PC Charmes (£850, Ar)The price may be a little steep – especially when you set it alongside Roulot’s Bourgogne Blanc – but there’s no denying that this a wonderful wine: rich, nutty, aromatic and very fresh. Now-5+ years

Domaine Jean Noël Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC Caillerets (£520, J&B; £540, BBR)Often the best value wine from this popular domaine, this is particularly good in 2009. Open and accessible with bags of concentration, subtle oak and nutty palate length. 3-8 years.

Domaine Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne (£810, L&S)Very focused, yet still powerful and concentrated, this is fresh and tangy with subtle notes of oak spice, citrus fruit and fresh cashew and a long, stylish finish. Very long. 3-8 years.

Domaine Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet PC Les Referts (£466, L&W)Fresh, crisp and taut, this gives the lie to the opinion that the 2009 whites won’t age. It’s dry and almost salty with honeyed spice, a touch of pink grapefruit and under-stated power. 4-10 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Tesson (£365, Go)The richest of Fichet’s lieux dits, this is all honeysuckle and pear on the palate, with taut acidity restraining its more exuberant tendencies. Fresh, stylish and integrated. Bargain. 2-8 years

Domaine Patrick Javillier Corton Charlemagne (£780, Go)A rich, powerful, well-upholstered Corton with lots of oak but the structure and concentration to soak it up. Ripe, honeyed, but not fat in any way. Finishes with tangy acidity. 3-10+ years

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne-Montrachet PC Chenevottes (£395, Go)Undoubtedly one of the superstar domaines of the vintage. This is chalky, refreshing and subtly oaked with pear and citrus fruit and a long, refreshing finish. A must buy at the price. Now-6 years

Domaine Jean Noël Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC La Boudriotte(£396, BBR)White flowers on the nose leading to a full, spicy, well-balanced palate with crunchy acidity, a touch of honey and a long, nuanced, lightly oaked finish. Very appealing. Now-8 years.

Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Les Clos (£498, HR; £510, Lay; £525, Ar)The most powerful of the Fèvre Grands Crus, this is a Chablis for the long term. It’s rich, oaky and slightly honeyed but with lovely underlying precision, length and minerality. 3-8+ years

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet PC Clos de la Mouchère(£480, L&S)A really well chosen négociant wine, with classic Puligny sap and minerality, this is beautifully balanced, with nuanced oak, tangy acidity and a smoky undertone. 2-7 years.

Château de Puligny-Montrachet Meursault PC Perrières (£498, BBR)Appropriately for a Meursault, there’s more richness than in the château’s Puligny wines here, but there’s also some Puligny freshness. Rich and creamy but with real zing and balance. Now-5 years.

Maison Alex Gambal Meursault PC Genevrières (£425, OWL)American ex-pat Gambal is making better wines with every vintage. This toasty, grilled hazelnut-scented Meursault is spot on, with a hint of struck match and well integrated oak. 2-6 years.

Domaine Philippe Colin, Puligny-Montrachet PC Demoiselles(£696, L&W)This vineyard is situated right next to Le Montrachet and has something of the Grand Cru’s power and depth. Lovely sweet stone fruit, spicy oak and a long, complex finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Chartron Puligny-Montrachet PC, Clos du Cailleret (£500, Bib)Owned entirely by the domaine, this is a little marked by oak at the moment, but very fine underneath, with focused vanilla and citrus fruit flavours and mouth-watering length. 2-6 years.

Domaine Rémi Jobard Meursault PC Genevrières (£420, L&S)This is the best of Jobard’s 2009 releases, a Meursault that has considerable honeyed richness and weight, but is balanced by acidity and spicy oak. A delicious mouthful. 2-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet PC Champ Canet (£465, Bib)Named after a family that owned the vineyard in the 19th century, this vineyard often produces wines with concentration and structure. Stylish, sweetly oaked and long. 2-6 years.

Maison Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault PG Genevrières (£440, Ar)Undoubtedly the bargain wine in the Bouchard white wine line up, this is very floral and faintly exotic, with a honeysuckle perfume and a mealy undertone. Fresh, balanced and refined. 2-7 years

Domaine Michel Bouzerau Meursault PC Perrières (£492, BBR)A full-bodied, powerful Meursault that has more than enough peach, honey and pear fruit to soak up the new oak. Rich, concentrated, textured and long. 2-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Paul Droin Chablis GC Les Clos (£330, Go)Less oaky than they used to be, these wines are now some of the best in Chablis. This is typically bold and powerful, but with minerally acidity and mouth-watering length. 3-8 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet PC Grandes Ruchottes(£450, FW)One of an impressive line-up of wines from Alex Moreau in 2009, this is a very fine Chassagne, made from 80-year-old vines. Complex, intense and sweetly oaked with a fine, minerally finish. 2-8 years

Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray (£320, Lay)This is only a lieu dit (albeit a wholly owned one), but it punches above its weight. Savoury, wild yeast-derived aromas, a touch of grapeskin, some aniseed and honeyed spice. 2-6 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Chenevottes(£365, Mo)Ambitiously oaked, but with enough old vine concentration to cope, this is a wine to cellar. Rich and powerful, with considerable style and underlying complexity. 3-8 years.

Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault Le Tesson (£480, J&B)A lieu dit, as opposed to a Premier Cru, but still a really smart Meursault: focused, yet intense with spice, elegance and freshness and a creamy mid-palate. 2-6 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Le Meix sous le Château(£285, Go)For an entry level village wine, this is wonderful value. It’s surprisingly fresh for the vintage – all citrus fruit ping – with notes of fennel and aniseed and a fine, lengthy finish. 3-8 years

Château de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes (£239, OWL; £265, Lay)The château blocked the malolactics on a third of its production in 2009 and it certainly paid off in this wine. Honeyed and complex with lovely length and tangy acidity. Now-5 years.

Domaine Ballot-Millot Meursault PC Charmes (£410, FW)Definitely at the more refined end of the Meursault spectrum, this has a touch of Puligny minerality to it. It’s beautifully balanced with citrus and orange peel aromas and understated spice. 3-8 years.

Domaine Hubert Lamy St Aubin PC En Remilly (£270, BBR)Made from unusually low yields (for 2009), this is a delicious St Aubin, showing the freshness and minerality of the village in 2009. Elegant and refined with a hint of fennel. Now-5 years.

Domaine Henri Darnat Puligny-Montrachet (£265, C&B)A bio-dynamic estate that defied conventional wisdom in 2009 and picked late. Not that it shows in this floral, zesty, minerally, old oak-aged Puligny. Now-5 years


Domaine Marc Colin St Aubin PC Montceau (£210, Bib)Who says white Burgundy has to be expensive to be any good? This smoky, refined, almost chiselled St Aubin could be a Chassagne Premier Cru. Incredible value for money. Now-6 years.

Domaine Gérard Thomas St Aubin PC Les Murgers des Dents de Chien (£185 , Mo)It’s difficult to pick a favourite wine from this domaine in 2009, as they are all so good, but this one scores for sheer value. Minerally, matchstick notes, stylish oak and vibrant acidity. 1-5 years.

Domaine Marc Colin St Aubin PC Sentier du Clou (£210, Go)Hard to beat at just over £200, this is St Aubin at its best in 2009, a wine that could easily be mistaken for a Premier Cru Puligny: minerally, complex, aromatic and spicy. Now-6 years

Domaine Laurent Pillot Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets (£210, L&S)Beautifully restrained Puligny at a very affordable price, this is smoky and taut with minerally, matchstick notes, a dash of smoky oak and an elegant, subtle finish. 2-6 years.

Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis PC Vaillons (£170, Mo)So open that you could almost drink it now, this Premier Cru is sweet and honeyed, with a Meursault-like texture and refreshing length and minerality. Now-5 years.

Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis PC Fourneaux (£155, Mo)The first vintage from this new domaine is extremely promising. This Premier Cru is complex and stylish with no obvious oak, aromas of fresh flowers and a fresh, balanced finish. Now-4 years.

Tim AtkinTop 50Best Value

Domaine Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet (£240, Ar)Fantastic value Chassagne from a top domaine. Early picking retained acidity, but this is still a softish, sweetly-oaked white, with good acidity and stone and citrus fruit flavours. Now-3 years.

Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair St Aubin PC En Remilly (£199, HH & C)One of a number of impressive wines from this estate, this is riper than some St Aubin whites in 2009, but still has lovely freshness, minerality and a hint of smoky reduction. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Roulot Bourgogne Blanc (£138.50, HH & C; £144, HR)Jean-Marc Roulot's Bourgogne Blanc is one of the bargains of the vintage. This wine is all about finesse, with delicious, smoky minerality, understated oak and a crisp, citrus finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc, Vieilles Vignes (£145, Go) Jean-Philippe Fichet's wines are some of the most under-rated in Burgundy. This is chalky, elegant and lightly-oaked with hints of honey and fresh flowers and beautiful balance. Now-5 years.

Domaine Larue St Aubin PC Cortons (£159, OWL)More evidence of great value from a St Aubin Premier Cru, showing restrained power, subtle toasty oak, pear and citrus fruit and chalky freshness. 1-5 years.

Domaine Bertrand Ambroise Ladoix PC Les Gréchons (£190, Mo)A domaine that excelled in 2009. This is a rich wine, but the oak is sensitively done, and there’s more than enough acidity to balance the honeyed, almost exotic fruit flavours. Now-3 years.

Domaine Vincent Dampt Chablis PC Côte de Léchet (£170, C&B)This won’t age particularly well in my view, such is its abundant honey and stone fruit flavours, but there’s more than enough crisp, chalky minerality for balance. 1-5 years.

Domaine Gilbert Picq Chablis PC Vaucoupin (£126, OWL) Good value for a Premier Cru Chablis, with the emphasis on fruit rather than oak. This is zesty and fresh with hints of orange blossom and a creamy, yet minerally mid-palate. Now-5 years.

Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Blanc La Tuféra (£135, J&B; £150 Go)This may be only the generic white from Gérard Boudot, but it’s as good as many Puligny village wines. Minerals, aniseed, cinnamon spice and good length. Now-5 years. Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon St Véran (£138, BBR)Dominique Lafon’s Mâcon estate goes from strength to strength. This is ripe, but not over-ripe with well-integrated oak, peachy fruit and real zest and finesse on the palate. Now-3 years.

Domaine Jean-Paul Droin Chablis PC Montée de Tonnerre (£175, Go)Sourced from one of the best PCs in the appellation, this is still closed in on itself, but has a chalky, almost flinty presence on the palate, with notes of grapefruit pith and lemon zest. 2-8 years.

Domaine Philippe Colin Bourgogne Blanc (£108, HR)In with a shout as the best value white wine of the vintage, this generic white is a steal, with its vanilla oak balanced by sweet fruit, texture and a backdrop of zesty acidity. Now-5 years.

Domaine Pascal Prunier-Bonheur Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes (£155, OWL)From a vineyard close to the border with Meursault, this shows the quality of the old vine fruit. It’s racy and stylish with lively acidity and a crisp, well-defined finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Blanc (£110, FW)Like Alex Moreau’s village level and Premier Cru wines, this is characterised by freshness and poise. It’s a very serious white Burgundy at the price, showing taut minerality. Now-5 years.

Domaine Stéphane Aladame Montagny PC Vieux Château (£120, OWL)Aladame is one of the best growers in the Chalonnaise. This comes from an unusually chalky site and has all the racy freshness you'd expect, with stylish oak and subtle, textured flavours. 1-5 years.

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully Mazières Blanc (£129, OWL)Vincent Dureuil makes wines of Côte d'Or quality and this wouldn't look out of place in Meursault: perfumed, concentrated and stylishly oaked with a combination of richness and precision. 2-5 years.

White wines.

Bret Bothers Mâcon-Villages, Cuvée Terroirs du Mâconnais (£90, BBR)Made mostly from declassified barrels from smarter appellations, this is a very tasty generic white, with impressive zest for a Mâcon-Villages in 2009 and refreshing peach and citrus fruit. Now-3 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Bourgogne Blanc (£125, Bib)Jean-Marc Boillot made an impressive range of wines in 2009. This doesn't have the concentration of his top cuvées but it's fresh and minerally, with great style and palate length. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Baptise Ponsot Rully Blanc (£110, FW)An appealingly priced white from one of Rully’s most exciting domains. Fresh and harmonious, with subtle oak and vibrant, minerally fruit. Very elegant. Now-3 years.

Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard Beaune PC Clos du Roi (£200, Mo)This is the first release from this vineyard, and what a début it is. Stylish, elegant and refined with notes of kirsch and wild strawberry and sweet, textured tannins. 1-5 years.

Domaine Claude Dugat Bourgogne Rouge (££, GWe)The price of this hasn’t been released yet, but if it’s reasonable, fill your cellar with every bottle you can buy. Joyous, sweet, aromatic Pinot with good underlying structure and purity. 2-6 years.

Domaine Bertrand Ambroise Beaune PC Les Tuvilains(£205, Mo) A curiosity at this domaine (it’s the only red from the Côte de Beaune) but a stand out wine. Quite oaky, but with plenty of sweet black fruits and ripe, structured tannins to compensate. 3-6 years.

Domaine Eric de Suremain Monthélie PC Sur la Velle (£250, J&B) Smart, aromatic, well-balanced Chalonnaise red from a domaine that never lets you down. Sappy and complex with some stalky whole bunch notes and polished, sweet tannins. Now-5 years.

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Beaune PC Clos du Roy (£243, L&S) Sappy, leafy and appealingly aromatic, this is a modern style with a some whole bunch character. Textured, refreshing and well balanced, this is a mid-weight wine, not a blockbuster. 2-7 years.

Domaine Robert Chevillon Bourgogne Rouge (£130, J&B) Remarkably good value with berry fruit, complexity and great depth for a generic red. Watch out the rest of the world if Burgundy can make wines like this at these prices. 2-5 years.

Maison Camille Giroud Santenay PC Grand Clos Rousseau (£198, BBR) Densely coloured, vibrant and very youthful, this packs a big punch for a wine under £200. It’s on the oaky side, but there’s enough fleshy black cherry and strawberry fruit for balance. 3-6 years.

Domaine Jean Guiton Pommard (£228, FW) Made from three combined parcels, this is classic village level Pommard, showing density, structure and no little perfume. Sappy, savoury, appealingly rigorous. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean Tardy Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge (£130, BI)From vineyards situated just above Vosne-Romanée (and picked five days later), this is a brilliant entry point red from a domaine on the up. Light, elegant, balanced and fragrant. Now-5 years.

Maison Roche de Bellène PC Beaune Les Cents Vignes (£189, L&W)Impressive value for a Premier Cru, Nicolas Potel’s wine is full of ripe strawberry fruit, with a hint of tomato leaf, fresh acidity and well-integrated sweet oak. For the medium term. 2-5 years.

Domaine Didier Fornerol Côte de Nuits Villages (£120, HR)The perfume on this wine explodes out of the glass. Juicy, fresh and harmonious with breezy, easy-drinking red fruits and a balanced, mouth-watering finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Pierre Damoy Bourgogne Pinot Noir(£145, FW)It's hard to believe that this is only a Bourgogne Rouge, because it's as good as many growers' Gevrey-Chambertins. Stylish and quite powerful with texture, length and bags of fruit. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard Santenay PC Clos des Tavannes (£195, J&B)From a domaine that makes world famous whites, this is a very tasty red from a cooler site that did well in 2009. Elegant, fresh and spicy, with supple tannins and bright fruit. Now-4 years.

Domaine Stéphane Magnien Morey St Denis (£225, BI)Well-priced Morey that has more concentration than many village level examples. Aromatic violets and red fruits on the nose, with a nip of tannin adding backbone to the palate. 2-5 years.

Domaine David Clark Côte de Nuits Villages (£174, BBR)Scottish ex-pat David Clark has made a deliciously fruity, elegant generic red with a touch of whole bunch stemminess, stylish tannins and a lively, refreshing finish. Very gluggable. Now-5 years.

Domaine Bertrand Ambroise, Côte de Nuits Villages (£145, Mo)Like so many 2009 reds from cooler sites, this has an enticing freshness about it. Sweet, forward and juicy with crunchy acidity and spicy red fruits. A wine to share with friends. Now-5 years.

Domaine Hudellot-Noëllat Bourgogne Rouge (£96, HR)The gentleness that is apparent in this domaine’s grander bottling is in evidence here too. This is soft, aromatic and sweet, with tangy acidity and supple fruit flavours. Now-5 years.

Domaine Bachelet Monnot Maranges, La Fussière Premier Cru (£150, J & B)You can taste the old vine fruit in this wine (all 70 years of it). It's quite serious and tannic, but there's enough stuffing, minerality and spice for the wine to develop nicely in bottle. 2-6 years.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Marsannay (£215, Go)At the top end, the wines from Méo can be pricey, so why not buy a case of this entry point red instead? Stylish and aromatic with sweet raspberry fruit and a nip of tannin. Now-5 years.

Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair Santenay PC Clos de la Comme(£189, HH&C)There’s a little bit of Santenay rusticity here, but it’s fleshed out by spicy, aromatic red fruits, a touch of oak and elegant, mid-weight tannins. 1-5 years.

Domaine Thierry & Pascale Matrot Meursault Rouge (£205, C&B)Something of a curiosity (there’s not a lot of red wine in Meursault), but I love the freshness, lightness and spicy elegance of this medium-weight Pinot. Now-5 years.

Domaine Françoise & Denis Clair Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (£88, HH & C)If you want to put a case of quaffing Pinot Noir in your cellar, this is deliciously juicy red Burgundy, with fine tannins, a nip of acidity from the Hautes Côtes and supple red fruits. Now-5 years.

Domaine François Raquillet Mercurey Vieilles Vignes (£126, L & S)One of a number of enjoyable Chalonnaise reds I've tasted from 2009, this is aromatic and elegant with sappy tannin, red cherry and raspberry fruit and a supple, easy-drinking finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques(£150, Ar)A hint of reduction here, but given the quality of Millot's Grands Crus, I'm confident that it will disappear before bottling. Crunchy, perfumed, minerally Pinot with lots of fruit and charm. Now-3 years.

Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes (£150, C&B)Very drinkable Pinot produced from 45-year-old vines, with the exuberant fruit character that is so typical of the vintage. Sappy, crunchy acidity underpins the ripeness here. Now-3 years.








Page 31



















































Page 32
















90

90




































Page 33
















89Bret Bothers Mâcon-Villages, Cuvée Terroirs du Mâconnais (£90, BBR)Made mostly from declassified barrels from smarter appellations, this is a very tasty generic white, with impressive zest for a Mâcon-Villages in 2009 and refreshing peach and citrus fruit. Now-3 years.







89

89

Red wines.





























Page 34

















































































Page 35










90

90










































Page 36















90

89

89

89

89

Clos de Tart (C&B)Domaine Stéphane Aladame (OWL)Domaine de l’Arlot (HR, L&W, C&B, Go)Domaine Bonneau du Martray (C&B)Domaine Louis Carillon (L&W, Mo)Domaine Sylvain Cathiard (J&B, L&W, OWL, Go, BBR)Domaine du Comte de Voguë (C&B)Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (J&B)Domaine Claude Dugat (GtW)Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial (OWL)Domaine Faiveley (HH & C, HR, Ar, BBR)Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet (Go, BBR)Domaine Fourrier (HR, Go, Ar)Domaine Leflaive (Ar, Lay)Domaine LeroyDomaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier (FW)

Domaine Frédéric Magnien (Lay, Domaine de Montille (L&W, OWL, FW, Ar, BBR)Domaine Laurent Pillot (L&S)Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (HR)Domaine Jacques Prieur (Lay)Domaine Rousseau (OWL, HR)Domaine de la Vougeraie (BBR)Domaine Taupenot-Merme (Ar)Maison Bouchard Père et Fils (BBR, Ar)Maison Joseph Drouhin (BBR)Dujac Fils et Père and Domaine Dujac (HR, OWL, FW, BBR)Maison Louis Jadot (BBR, BI)Maison Louis Latour (BI)Olivier Bernstein (BBR)Vincent Girardin (Bib)

ProducersI visitedin Burgundy.

Benjamin Leroux (BBR)Bret Brothers (BBR)Château de Fuissé (OWL)Château de La Tour, Clos de Vougeot (C&B)Château Long Depaquit (UGCC)Château de Puligny-Montrachet (OWL, BBR)Domaine Stéphane Aladame (OWL)Domaine Bertrand Ambroise (Mo)Domaine Romain Arlaud (L&W, OWL, FW)Domaine de l’Arlot (HR, L&W, C&B, Go)Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux (HR, L&W, Ar)Domaine Bachelet-Monnot (J&B)Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet (BBR)Domaine Ballot-Millot (L&W, FW)

Domaine Daniel Barrauld (L&S)Domaine Ghislaine Barthod (J&B, HR, L&W, Go, BBR, Bib)Domaine de Bellene (BBR)Domaine Samuel Billaud (Mo)Domaine Billaud-Simon (Go, Mo)Domaine Simon Bize (OWL, Go, Ar)Domaine Marc-Antonin Blain (HH & C)Domaine Blain-Gagnard (HH & C, Ar)Domaine Bohrmann (Bib)Domaine Henri Boillot (L&S)Domaine Louis Boillot (L&W, Go, BBR)Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot (L&W, Go, Ar, L&S, Bib)

& tasted in London.

Please consult the codes listed after each producer to find a UK Importer. A key is provided on page 40

Domaine Adhémar Boudin (L&S)Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley (OWL)Domaine Michel Bouzereau (L&W, BBR)Domaine Chandon de Briailles (HH & C, L&W, Go, L&S)Domaine Michel Briday (HR)Domaine Buisson-Charles (FW)Domaine Louis Carillon (L&W, Mo)Domaine Sylvain Cathiard (J&B, L&W, OWL, Go, BBR)Domaine Jean-Pierre Chartron (Go)Domaine Jean Chartron (Bib)Domaine Alain Chavy (HR)Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy (OWL)Domaine Philippe Chavy (L&W)Domaine Robert Chevillon (J&B)Domaine Bruno Clair (J&B)Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair (HH & C)Domaine David Clark (BBR)Domaine Bruno Clavelier (HR, OWL)Domaine des Clos (Ar)Domaine Clos des Rocs (FW)Domaine Bernard Coillot (FW)Domaine Bruno Colin (Go)Domaine Marc Colin (Go, Bib)Domaine Philippe Colin (HR, L&W)Domaine Colin-Deleger (Go)Domaine Jean Collet (UGCC)Damine du Comte Armand (BBR, L&W, HR, L&W, Go, L&S)Domaine des Comtes Lafon (BBR)Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot (OWL, FW, L&S)Domaine de Courcel (HR, FW, L&S)Domaine de la Croix Senaillet (OWL)Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau C&B)Domaine Pierre Damoy (FW)Domaine Daniel Dampt (HH & C)Domaine Vincent Dampt (C&B)Domaine Vincent Dancer (J&B)Domaine Henri Darnat (C&B)Domaine Didier Darviot-Perrin (HR, L&W, Ar)Domaine Jean Defaix (Bib)Domaine Christophe Denizot (HR)Domaine Jean-Paul Droin (Go)Domaine Drouhin-Laroze (J&B, HH & C, Go, Bib)Domaine Dublère (HR)Domaine Dujac (HR, OWL, FW, BBR)Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot (Bib)Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial (OWL)Domaine Duroché (FW)Domaine Arnaud Ente (BBR)

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin (HR)Domaine Faiveley (HH & C, HR, Ar, BBR)Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre (UGCC)Domaine William Fèvre (HR, Ar, UGCC)Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet (Go, BBR)Domaine Follin-Arbelet (J&B, L&W)Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard (HR, L&W, OWL, Ar, Bib)Domaine Didier Fornerol (HR)Domaine Fourrier (HR, Go, Ar)Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard (J&B, BBR) Domaine Dominique Gallois (Go) Domaine Geantet-Pansiot (HR, OWL, Go)Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy (BI)Domaine Henri Germain (L&S)Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard (Mo)Domaine Henri Gouges (J&B, HR, OWL, FW, Mo, Bib)Domaine Jean Grivot (J&B, HR, L&W, Go, BBR, Bib)Domaine Anne Gros (L&S)Domaine Michel Gros (L&W)Domaine Franck Grux (HH & C)Domaine Jean Guiton (FW)Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat (HR, FW, Go, Bib)Domaine Paul Jacqueson (L&S, L&S)Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (FW)Domaine Patrick Javillier (J&B, L&W, OWL, C&B, Go, BBR)Domaine Antoine Jobard (BBR) Domaine François Jobard (Go)Domaine Rémi Jobard (L&S)Domaine Gilles Jourdan (C&B)Domaine Pierre Labet (C&B)Domaine Laborier-Chataignier (FW)Domaine Dominique Lafon (BBR)Domaine François Lamarche (J&B, L&W, BBR)Domaine des Lambrays (HH & C, HR, L&W, OWL, FW, Go, L&S, BBR)Domaine Hubert Lamy (L&W, OWL, FW, L&S, BBR)Domaine Laroche (UGCC)Domaine Larue (OWL)Domaine Latour-Giraud (Bib)Domaine Lebreuil (FW)Domaine Hubert Lignier (BI)Domaine Lucie & Auguste Lignier (FW)Domaine Maroslavac-Leger (Go)Domaine François Lumpp (L&S)Domaine Frédéric Magnien (Lay)Domaine Stéphane Magnien (BI)

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville (C&B, Ar, Mo)Domaine Martelot de Cherisey (J&B)Domaine Matrot (C&B, Bib)Domaine Méo-Camuzet (J&B, L&W, Go)Domaine Jean-Marc Millot (Ar)Domaine Christian Moreau (HH & C)Domaine Louis Moreau (UGCC)Domaine Moreau-Naudet (OWL, J&B)Domaine Morey CoffinetDomaine Louis Michel (OWL)Domaine de Montille (L&W, OWL, FW, Ar, BBR)Domaine Bernard Moreau (OWL, FW)Domaine Pierre Morey (J&B)Domaine Marc Morey (Ar)Domaine Thierry Mortet (L&S)Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg (HH & C, HR, L&W, OWL, L&S)Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier (J&B, HH & C, OWL)Domaine Michel Niellon (OWL)Domaine Sylvain Pataille (OWL)Domaine Paul Pernot (HR)Domaine Pernot-Belicard (FW)Domaine Perrot-Minot (L&S) Domaine Gilbert Picq (OWL)Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot (L&W, FW, Mo)Domaine Laurent Pillot (L&S)Domaine Paul Pillot (FW, Go)Domaine Patrick Piuze (Westbury Communica-tions)Domaine Denis Pommier (Go)Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot (FW)Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (HR)Domaine Henri Prudhon (Go)Domaine Pascal Prunier-Bonheur (OWL)Domaine François Raquillet (L&S)Domaine Louis Rémy (J&B)Domaine Daniel Rion (Mo)Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion (BBR)Domaine Robert-Denogent (Bib)Domaine Rémi Rollin (J&B)Domaine Nicolas Rossignol (L&S)Domaine Rossignol-Trapet (OWL, Mo, BBR)Domaine Roulot (HH & C, HR, Ar)Domaine Laurent Roumier (BI)

Domaine Armand Rousseau (HR)Domaine Roux (Bib)Domaine Marc Roy (OWL)Domaine Etienne Sauzet (J&B, L&W, OWL, Go, Ar)Domaine Serafin (Go)Domaine Servin (UGCC)Domaine Anne & Hervé Sigaut (Ar)Domaine Simonnet-Febvre (UGCC)Domaine Eric de Suremain (J&B)Domaine Jean Tardy (BI)Domaine Taupenot-Merme (Ar)Domaine Gérard Thomas (Mo)Domaine Tollot-Beaut (OWL, Go, Bib)Domaine Trapet (C&B)Domaine Cecile Tremblay (J&B)Domaine Laurent Tribut (J&B)Domaine Tupinier-Bautista (OWL)Domaine de Varoilles (C&B)Domaine A & P de Villaine (C&B)Domaine Joseph Voillot (Go)Domaine de la Vougeraie (BBR)Dominique Lafon (BBR)Dujac Fils et Père (HR, OWL, FW, BBR)Humbert Frères (L&W)Jean-Yves Devevey (BBR)La Chablisienne (UGCC)Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon (BBR)Maison Bouchard Père et Fils (Ar, BBR)Maison Camille Giroud (HR, BBR)Maison Champy (HH & C)Maison Joseph Drouhin (BBR)Maison Alex Gambal (OWL)Maison Louis Jadot (BBR, BI)Maison Louis Latour (BI)Maison Roche de Bellene (L&W, Go, Ar, BBR, Bib)M&M (Ar)Olivier Leflaive Frères (HH & C)Olivier Merlin (BBR)Patrick Piuze (Bib)Sylvain Loichet (BBR)Thibault Liger-Belair (OWL, L&S, BBR)Vincent Girardin (Bib)


Page 37







Page 38








Page 39


UK ImportersAr

BI

Bib

BBR

C&B

FW

Go

GtW

HH & C

HR

J&B

Lay

L&S

L&W

Mo

UGCC

Armit

Bordeaux Index

Bibendum

Berry Brothers & Rudd

Corney & Barrow

Flint Wines

Goedhuis

Great Western Wines

Haynes, Hanson & Clark

Howard Ripley

Justerini & Brooks

Laytons

Lea & Sandeman

Lay & Wheeler

Montrachet

Union des Grand Crus de Chablis

www.armit.co.uk

www.bordeauxindex.com

www.bibendum-wine.co.uk

www.bbr.com/burgundy

www.corneyandbarrrow.com

www.flintwines.com

www.goedhuis.com

www.greatwesternwine.co.uk

www.hhandc.co.uk

www.howardripley.com

www.justerinis.com

www.jeroboams.co.uk

www.leaandsandeman.co.uk

www.laywheeler.com

www.montrachetwine.com

www.grandscrusdechablis.com

RecommendedRestaurantsAuprès du Clocher, Pommard (03 80 22 21 79)Caveau des Arches, Beaune (03 80 22 10 37)La Part des Anges, Beaune (03 80 22 07 68)Le Bistro Bourguignon, Beaune(03 80 22 23 24)Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (03 80 21 30 06)Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune (03 80 24 22 20)Ma Cuisine, Beaune (03 80 22 30 22)Restaurant Chez Guy, Gevrey-Chambertin (03 80 58 51 51)Restaurant Le Beneton, Beaune (03 80 22 00 26)Restaurant Le Chassagne, Chassagne-Montrachet (03 80 21 94 94)

Further ReadingJasper Morris MW. Inside Burgundy. (£50, BB&R Press)Remington Norman MW. Grand Cru (£40, Kyle Cathie)Remimgton Norman MW and Charles Taylor MW. The Great Domaines of Burgundy third edition (£40, Kyle Cathie)www.burghound.com

I would also recommend many of the 2009 offers published by (and available free from) the merchants listed earlier. Many of them are available online as well as in printed form.


Page 40

All written content & photos 2011 © Tim Atkin. Sub-editing by Sue Wixley.Layout by Jonathan McKay.

Tim Atkin MW would like to acknowledge the help and support of the BIVB and Westbury Communications in organising and funding two indispensable fact finding trips to Burgundy in 2010.

Printed and bound colour copies of this report are available at £15 plus VAT and P&P from [email protected]

Tim Atkin Wine Report Burgundy 2009

Documents

Transcript of Tim Atkin Wine Report Burgundy 2009