Wine Road Burgundy

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La Route des Vins de Bourgogne

of Legend

T

he much-abused epithet of living legend for once really does apply in the case of the vineyards of

Burgundy. For over 2000 years, Burgundy has succeeded triumphantly in combining the generosity of

its soil with the ingenuity and toil of man to become a reference throughout the world.

As the writer Jean de la Varende so aptly puts it, The grands crus of Burgundy belong to both legend and history,

possessing the splendour of the former and the authenticity of the latter. Such a fabulous history and such fabled

wines flattering both palate and intellect surely deserve a road, a route, an itinerary of their own and a very

special itinerary at that! An itinerary taking you to the heart of Burgundy and Burgundy wines, for it is

impossible to conceive of the one without the other. Travelling to Burgundy without exploring its vineyards is

like travelling to Rome without visiting the Capitol. By the same token, every self-respecting wine connoisseur

should, at least once in his life, make a pilgrimage to the source of his pleasure, to the cradle of the worlds finest

wines. For travellers and wine lovers alike, the Region has devised and set up a road which is fully worthy of its

wines. It is a route of distinction, as fine as any to be found in the world; a route divided into five itineraries

embracing all the Burgundian wine areas, from terroirsof world repute to humble local plots and parcels. These

itineraries may be explored in your car, on your bike or even on foot, as and when you please.

This magical route brings the exceptional and the extraordinary within the reach of all. It opens the door to the

world of Burgundy wine, its heritage and poetry, its landscapes and villages, its cellars and winegrowers. In

short, the route is an open invitation to discover, learn and dream.

Follow the Wine Road and see legend become reality!

Welcome to a World


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Published by the Burgundy Regional Tourist Board (CRT Bourgogne).

Creation/Design: FTM.Presse (Fontaine-ls-Dijon, 21)TempsRel (Dijon, 21).Photographic Credits:Alain Doire (CRT Bourgogne), BIVB(pages 8, 14, 37, 38, 39) and Michel Joly (pages 33 and 35).Cartography: Latitude Cartagne.Illustrations: Bernard Deubelbeiss.Printed by Desmet-Laire (Belgium).Translation: Barnaby Capel-Dunn.

June 2007 - ISNN: pending.

Contents

Practical InformationPlanning your Trip

The 5 Circuits of the Wine RoadThe Burgundy Wine Road (Route des Vins de Bourgogne) is divided into five routes oritineraries, each corresponding to one of the great wine-growing area of Burgundy, and

each with its own description in the following pages:

- The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route des Grands Crus) the Cte de Nuits and the Cte de Beaune.

- The Grands Vins Wine Road (Route des Grands Vins) the Cte Chalonnaise.

- The Yonne Wine Road (Route Touristique des Vignobles de lYonne) the Yonne department.

- The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Route des Vins Mconnais-Beaujolais) the Sane-

et-Loire department.

- The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road (Route des Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre) theNivre department.

The Road of all the Pleasures!If there is one area where wine is an integral part of life,

that area must surely be Burgundy. As you explore the

vineyards you wil l at the same time drink in all the other

treasures of the region: heritage and history, nature and

landscapes, winegrowers and traditions, gastronomy and

the inimitable Burgundian art de vivre.


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Chteau du Clos de Vougeot


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History and Heritage

s the diplomat and writer Paul Claudel was fondof remarking, a great wine is not the work of man, but the culmination of a consistent and

sophisticated tradition. More than a thousand years of history

goes into the making of an old bottle of wine. Few parts ofthe world express this notion of wine civilisation as wellas Burgundy. Here, wine is a founding influence, respon-

sible for shaping many a landscape, building, traditionand mentality. So many beautiful things have beenpatiently built up around, by and for wine.In all probability introduced by the Romans, the vineis inextricably woven into the history of Burgundy, fromthe monastic communities of the Middle Ages to thesocial movements of the 19th century, not forgettingthe great Dukes of Burgundy who proudly proclaimedthemselves lords of the best wines in Christendom.History is present at every turning in this inspired land.From a little wine village in the Tonnerre area tothe Chteau du Clos de Vougeot, from a Cistercian

storehouse to a local heritage museum dedicated to wine,from a little dry stone cabotte, once used by winegrowersas shelter from inclement weather, to a Town of Artisticand Historical Interest the past will accompany youthroughout your journey, ceaselessly calling you back tothe roots of an-ever changing civilisation.

A

The Civilisation

of Wine


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ine is much more than a mere beverage,it is a culture lovingly handed down fromgeneration to generation. While Burgundy

has always attached great importance to the situation of aparticular vineyard or cru (there are about 100 appellationsin all), the winegrowers expertise remains a crucial element

in the complex alchemy which transforms vine into wine.The label does not attempt to disguise the part played byhuman endeavour in bringing out the best in the soil.

As you travel the length and breadth of Burgundy, a host ofwine properties and cellars will help you learn the languageof wine. The Burgundian winegrower will make it a pointof honour to transmit his passion for wine to you. Listento him speak of his love of the soil and the vine, of hisprofession (calling would be a better word), of the fruit ofhis labour which he extracts from the cask using a pipette.

At such moments time does indeed seem to stand still.Away from the underground sanctuary of the cellar scene

of the silent art of wine tasting the festive spirit oncemore asserts its place. Enjoy a convivial communal meal ina wine domaine or at a country fair splendidly organisedby a friendly wine confraternity, take part in the famousSaint-Vincent wine festival or a banquet marking thesafe gathering of the wine harvest. These are wonderful,not-to-be-missed opportunities to immerse oneself in thepopular imagery of Burgundy, festive occasions celebrated

with due Burgundian pomp!

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of MenThe Fervour

Of Vineyards and Winegrowers


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Gastronomy and Art of Living

n the words of Alexandre Dumas, Wine is theintellectual part of the meal and food merely its

material companion. This aphorism serves as anexcellent summary of Burgundian philosophy so far as theculinary arts are concerned. Here, gastronomy, no matterhow superb or generous, is at the service of the wine, hencethe marvellous Burgundian formula marking the beginningof the meal bon apptit et large soif, which translates ratherlamely as good eating and good drinking!

Over and above the regions amply merited reputationin this respect, wine and gastronomy form part of thevalues that you will regularly encounter in the course ofyour journey. In Burgundy, our chefs are also our wineambassadors, at one with the winegrowers in their love ofthe soil. They will take great pleasure in introducing you tothe world of wine, giving you the benefit of their adviceand conjuring up an old bottle reserved for a specialoccasion. In short, Burgundy is a land where good foodand good wine go hand in hand as you will have ampleopportunity to attest! A moment of pure happiness isguaranteed, whether in the shape of a good old country

snack (for example, a slice of parsleyed ham and a glassof red wine) in a wayside bistro, or a gastronomic feastaccompanied by a vintage wine recommended by the

wine waiter in a Michelin starred restaurant. And then ofcourse there is the atmosphere of conviviality and goodconversation without which no meal is ever complete.

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Feast forthe Mind


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The Grands Crus Wine Road (Route

touristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne)The Cte de Nuits, from Dijon to Corgoloin

The Yonne Wine Road (Route Touristique des Vignobles de lYonne)5 circuits around Joigny, Chablis, Auxerre,Tonnerre and Vzelay

The Coteaux de Pouilly-SancerreWine Road (Route des Coteaux dePouilly-Sancerre). From Pouilly-sur-

Loire to Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire

The Grands Vins Wine Road (Route touris-tique des Grands Vins). The Cte Chalonnaise,from Santenay to Saint-Gengoux-le-National

The Grands Crus Wine Road (Routetouristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne)The Cte de Beaune, from Corgoloin to Santenay

The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road (Route des VinsMconnais-Beaujolais). From Saint-Gengoux-le-Nationalto Romanche-Thorins


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One road, many vineyards...

Just like the localities through which it passes the Burgundy Wine Road has

many facets, consisting of almost as many circuits as there are winegrowingareas to explore. Where wine is concerned, there is much more to Burgundythan the famous names of the Cte dOr, and the Wine Road takes us through awealth of vineyards in the regions four administrative departments large and small,new and old, renowned or little known, on harsh plateaux or sunny slopes.Looking at the different itineraries one by one: the Grands Crus Wine Road leadsus to the famous slopes of the Cte de Nuits and the Cte de Beaune, with someenticing excursions to their respectivehautes ctesor back hills. As we continue southof the Cte de Beaune, we come to the Grands Vins Wine Road with the vineyardsof the Couchois and the Cte Chalonnaise. Pushing further south, we pass throughthe vineyards of the Mconnais before ending our journey in the first outposts of theBeaujolais. In the Yonne department, less than an hours drive from Paris, you canchoose between no fewer than five circuits to explore the wine areas of Joigny

(the Jovinien), Chablis (the Chablisien), Auxerre (the Auxerrois), Tonnerre (theTonnerrois) and Vzelay (the Vzelien). Last but not least, in the Nivre department,you will be able to explore the too-often overlooked vineyards of Pouilly and theCoteaux du Giennois, along the banks of the majestic river Loire.All these localities or terroirs, each with its distinctive character, await your visit.The Burgundy Wine Road, consistently and clearly signposted throughout, isliberally sprinkled with wine villages, sites of remarkable architectural beauty andwine cellars open to visitors. Burgundy requests the pleasure of your company:rpondez sil vous plat!

In search ofBurgundyin all its diversity




Vosne-Romane

from Lyon, making it the ideal departure pointfor exploring the Grands Crus Wine Road. Withits protected historical sector, much of it reservedfor pedestrians, buildings representing all eras,parks and gardens, museums, etc., the formercapital of the Dukes of Burgundy offers visitors a

wide choice of things to do and see.

AT THE GATES OF DIJONVines were once grown in the western part of thetown, on the hill which is in fact none other thanthe prolongation of the wine slopes. Nowadays,there is no longer a Cte Dijonnaise appella-tion, but the Town Council has kept a littlevineyard (42 ares) in the Marcs dOr localityabove the Fontaine dOuche quarter (near theParc de la Combe Persil marking the start of the

Grands Crus Long-Distance Footpath (Granderandonne des Grands Crus). This parcel wasreplanted with Chardonnay vines in 1981. Fromhere we drop down towards Chenve on thesouthern outskirts of Dijon. Tucked away behindthe concrete faade of the newer districts liesa very picturesque old wine village, home to the

old winepresses of the Burgundian Dukes: twosplendid screw winepresses dating from the early15th century housed in a prettily built storehouse.Marsannay-la-Cte, still in the Dijon area, marksthe official beginning of the Cte de Nuits.It is the only place in Burgundy where red, whiteand ros wines are produced under the samecommunal appellation.

As we make our way south along a little roadrunning parallel to the main Dijon-Beaune road

hile Burgundy is blessed with a largenumber of quality vineyards, thereputation it has built up over 2000

years ultimately rests with a thin strip of landstretching from north to south over a distance of60 kilometres between Dijon and the Marangesregion on the border between the Cte-dOr andSane-et-Loire departments. Here, we are in thevery heart of winegrowing Burgundy. The Cte,as it is called in these parts, faces east and

south-east and backs onto the Burgundianuplands overlooking the Sane plain. It is dividedinto two sections: the Cte de Nuits in the northand the Cte de Beaune in the south. The formerconsists of a narrow band of vineyards, 20 kmlong and a few hundred yards wide, situated at analtitude of between 230 and 300 metres and onoften steep slopes (up to 25%).TGV high speed train connections put Dijononly 100 minutes from Paris and 90 minutes

The northern part of the Grands Crus Wine Road Burgundys

Champs-Elyses is constituted by the Cte de Nuits, stretching

from the gates of Dijon to the village of Corgolin. The names of

the villages along the way read like a roll call of the greatest red

wines in the world and include 24 of Burgundys 33 grands crus:

Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Romane-Conti and so many

others. Welcome to the legend!

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Legendary Cte de NuitsTHE GRAND CRUS WINE ROAD


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Chteau du Clos de Vougeot

FROM LEGEND TO UNIVERSAL MYTHAt Vosne-Romane, 2 km to the south ofClos de Vougeot, we enter the holy of holies,for it is in this little village that Burgundysgreatest red wines are to be found.

There are seven grands crusincluding the mythical RomaneConti, the soul of discretion

with its 1.8 ha of vineyardsmarked by a wayside crossand producing little morethan 5000 bottles a year

with whic h the world willsomehow have to make do!

And so we com e to th eworld- renowned litt le town ofNuits-Saint-Georges, capital of the

Cte de Nuits. The wine of Nuits has travel-led through history and journeyed in space. It wasprescribed as a remedy to Louis XIV, the Apollo 15space mission named a crater on the moon after it(in honour of the heroes of Jules Vernes Around theMoon who opened a bottle of the nectar in theirspacecraft), and of course it is at the origin of theinternationally acclaimed Hospices de Nuits Wine

Auction. But this little town has more to offer thanits wine. Visitors will also be interested in the Muni-

cipal Museum, theexcavations at the

Gallo-Roman site of LesBolards and the Cassis-sium (a museum area

which is devoted to theblackcurrant and offersthe opportunity tovisit the Vdrenneliqueur factory. Youcan also make a littledetour via Chaux and

Villiers-la-Faye (15thcentury castle), the first stage

of a fascinating route through the verydifferent atmosphere of the Hautes Ctes.

Back once more on the Wine Road, we go past

Comblanchien, where stone from the quarries isexported throughout the world (pedestal of theStatue of Liberty, Pyramid of the Louvre, etc.),on the way to Corgolin, the last stop onour journey through the Cte de Nuits. Here weare transported back in time to the 18th centuryatmosphere of the Chteau de Cussigny (gaslighting, dovecote and forest railway line) as aprelude to our exploration of the Cte de Beaune(see circuit details on pages 16 to 19).

Chamboeuf and Vergy where, instead of retracingyour steps to Gevrey-Chambertin you can takeanother road and join up with the Grands Crus

Wine Road at Nuits-Saint-Georges.The Wine Road heads south through a sea ofvines, past a succession of low drystone walls and

walled vineyards complete with elegant gateways,

testifying to almost one thousand years of history.At Morey-Saint-Denis, the venerable Clos de Tartcan take pride in the fact that it has changed handsonly three times and has never been divided upsince it was first planted in 1142. This is in sharpcontrast with the world-renowned Clos de Vou-geot which we come to a little further on, back onthe RN74. The property belonged to the monksof Cteaux Abbey until the French Revolution.Its surface area has not changed since the 15th

century, but the number of its owners certainlyhas about one hundred at the last count! At thecentre of this exceptional vineyard stands theChteau du Clos de Vougeot, built during theRenaissance on the original 12th century winebuildings. The chteau still possesses a wine store-house containing four massive oak winepresses,

traditional kitchens and a vast cellar where thechapters of the famous Confrrie des Chevaliersdu Tastevin (Brotherhood of the Knights of theTastevin) are held. Not to be missed!On the other side of the main road, Gilly-les-Cteaux heralds the nearby presence of the abbey

which was to play such an important part in thehistory of wine in Burgundy and which thrivesmodestly to this day. It is only 10 km away and is

well worth a visit.

YOUR ITINERARYDijon-Corgoloin (29 km)

Via Chenve (km 6), Marsannay (km 9), Fixin(km 12), Gevrey-Chambertin (km 14),

Morey-Saint-Denis (km 17), Chambolle-Musigny (km 18), Vougeot (km 19), Vosne-Romane (km 21), Nuits-Saint-Georges(km 24) and Comblanchien (km 28).

Marking: the Grands Crus Wine Road (Routetouristique des Grands Crus de Bourgogne) is indi-cated by panels with a brown background showing awhite bunch of grapes and indicating the itinerary tofollow. The Wine Road runs parallel to the RN74main road between Dijon and Beaune, and whene-ver possible follows little country roads.

Walking and cycling: you can travel by car butalso on foot or mountain bike thanks to the GrandsCrus Long-Distance Footpath (Grande randonnedes Grands Crus) (21 km, 6 to 7 hours on foot, redand yellow marking, for experienced hikers) which

crosses the Cte de Nuits starting from Dijon (Parcde la Combe Persil) and finishes at Pernand-Vergelesses (where you can continue as far asSantenay along the GR 7 long-distance footpath).


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The grand crus wine road

Throughout the route

The St-Vincent Tournante(wine festival): on the lastSaturday in January each year, to

commemorate the feast of thepatron saint of winegrowers, aCte de Nuits village organises afestival which brings togetherwinegrowers and confraternitiesaround time-honoured rituals(procession with statues of thesaint, mass, banquets and tastingsessions).

The Marathon des GrandsCrus de Bourgogne: thispopular race is run in late October.

It starts in Old Dijon, follows theGrands Crus Wine Road as far asNuits-Saint-Georges and thenreturns to the Marathon Villageat Marsannay-la-Cte.

Dijon

To see: the old town and itsprotected sector (over 50 man-sions, numerous churches);Palace of the Dukes and States-General of Burgundy, the Towerof Philippe-le-Bon (viewpoint);

the Fine-Arts Museum and thetombs of the Dukes; the Well ofMoses, masterpiece of Flemishsculpture (14C-15C).

To do: visit the town at 6 kphon a Segway along itinerariesspecially devised by the DijonTourist Office.

Events: at the beginning ofSeptember, Dijon is aroused bythe International Folkloriadesand Wine Festival (music anddance from all parts of the world);in early November, the Inter-national Gastronomic Fair hasbeen a highlight of Dijon life foralmost 80 years.

Chenve

To see: the old wine villageand the winepresses of the Dukesof Burgundy (14C).

Events: on the third weekendin September, the Fte de la Pressecelebrates the end of the grape

harvest in the gaily-decoratedold wine village.

Marsannay-la-Cte

To see: the Heritage Centre(Maison du Patrimoine) and itsexhibition on the everyday lifeof winegrowers in 19th centuryBurgundy.

To do: a walk through thevineyards in the company of ageologist who explains the

fascinating story of how a terroiris formed (details from the TouristOffice).

Events: in March, the JournesGourmandes (tasting of winesand local produce); end of Septem-ber, the Rallye des Vendanges(cycling trek in the Hautes-Ctes).

Couchey

To see: viewpoint and viewpointdiagram above the village, at theentrance to the plateau.

Events: in October, Fte duVin Nouveau (demonstration oftraditional wine pressing andtasting of grape juice).

Fixin

To see: Noisot Park andMuseum, dedicated to Napoleon;village washhouse (1827); atthe hamlet of Fixey, romantic littleRomanesque church andcommunal lava-covered oven.

To do: share a tart baked inthe communal oven of Fixey;heated each year to celebrate thebeginning of the grape harvest.

Gevrey-Chambertin

To see: beautiful, sturdy chteau(15C and 16C fortified cellar);the strange pink colour of thechurch of St-Agnan (12C-13C);the house of the Burgundian writerGaston Roupnel (1872-1946);

townhouse of the wine merchantClaude Jobert (17C).

To do: nature and vineyardwalk in the Combe Lavaux area(specially prepared along thebottom of the coomb andsignposted path followingthe crest).

Events: in September,Chambertin Music Festival(concerts and wine).

Chambolle-Musigny

To see: lime tree (16C) andchteau (18C).

To do: a short trip on board theEscargot de la Cte, a littlevineyard tourist train.

Vougeot

To see: Chteau du ClosVougeot, headquarters ofthe Confrrie des Chevaliersdu Tastevin.

Nuits-Saint-Georges

To see: church of St-Sympho-rien; municipal museum (archae-ology, painting); the Cassissium, amuseum area dedicated to theblackcurrant; the Imaginarium,dedicated to sparkling wine.

To do: an excursion in theHautes-Ctes de Nuits (chteau atConcoeur-et-Corboin, church andmuseum at Reull e-Vergy, etc.).

Events: in March, Vente desVins des Hospices de Nuits (wineauction); in June, the Route duCassis (rally in the Hautes-Ctes);in July, Sons d'une Nuits d't(Nuits-Saint-Georges MusicFestival); in October, Fte du VinBourru (wine festival).

ON THE WAY...

FACTSAND FIGURESThe Cte de Nuits Wine Area

Surface area: about 3400 hectares spread over 16 communes, including 682

hectares for the Bourgogne Hautes-Ctes de Nuits AOC zone whichextends over a score or so of communes situated parallel to the Cte at analtitude of between 300 and 400 metres.

Production: 149,000 hectolitres, i.e. almost 20 million bottles per year, withred wine accounting for over 85% of production. The great Cte de Nuitsreds (Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, etc.)are reputed for their ageing qualities, their structure and their powerfulflavour which makes them a perfect companion for game or mature cheese.

Terroir: stony soil consisting of fallen rocks from the mid-Jurassic period mixedwith red earth torn from the plateaux. The peculiar aptitude for producing greatred wines may be attributed to these geological features together with the cli-mate, the orientation of the wine slopes and the absence of rivers and streams.

Grape varieties: Pinot Noir for reds; Chardonnay for whites and Aligotfor the Aligot white wines.

Crus: 24 grands crus (supreme accolade awarded to certain climats) are pro-duced in the Cte de Nuits, in other words all the red Burgundy grands cruswith the exception of Corton (in the Cte de Beaune). The bottle label givesthe name of the climat followed by the expression grand cru: Chambertin,Chambertin-Clos de Bze, Chapelle-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin,Mazoyres-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Latricires-Chambertin,Mazis-Chambertin, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos de laRoche, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Musigny, Bonnes Mares, ClosVougeot, Echzeaux, Grands Echezeaux, La Romane, La Romane-Conti,Romane Saint-Vivant, Richebourg, La Tche, La Grande Rue.




fter Corgoloin, the Grands Crus Wine

Road slides imperceptibly from the

Cte de Nuits to the Cte de Beaune,

continuing along the RN 74 main road at the

foot of a linear wine slope that remains

sublimely oblivious of administrative bound-

aries. It is a gentle transition on this modest

fault scarp wreathed in vine leaves, a sumptu-

ous slope cast haughtily and negligently by the

mountain towards the plain, in the words of

the Burgundian writer Gaston Roupnel.

SOURCE OF PLEASURESOn this stretch of the Grands Crus Wine Road,

the vineyards, which usually come to a halt

when they reach the main road, now spill over

to the other side. On the mountain side to

the west, we find the vineyards of Corton and

its grand crus; on the plain side to the east,

we see the lesser-known vineyards of Ladoix-

Serrigny which nevertheless produce pleas-

ant, fine, supple and aromatic red wines.

Taking its name from the Celtic worddouix, meaning source, Ladoix (attached

to the village of Serrigny since 1988),

boasts a fountain from which pour forth

the waters of the Lauve, a little river which

also supplies a washhouse and a 17th

century mill, before joining the river

Rhoin 8 kilometres downstream at

Ruffey-ls-Beaune. This is one of the

oldest villages of the Cte, preserving

intact a remarkable architectural heritage:

remains of the ancient sanctuary of La Douix at

the chteau (in actual fact a fortified house

restored in the 19th century by the Mrode

family), turrets of the fortified farmhouses

(14th and 15th centuries), etc. Enjoy a leisurely

stroll through a wine village steeped in history.Over the past ten years or so, Ladoix-Serrigny

has become known for its Balade Gourmand,

a gastronomic walk which each summer

attracts numerous lovers of good food: not so

much a sporting event, more a pleasant walk

punctuated with tempting halts at restaurants

of repute in the enchanting setting of such

premier cru plots as La Micaude, La Corve and

Le Clou d'Orge!

Prestigious Cte de Beaune

AFrom Ladoix-Serrigny to the vineyards of the Maranges, the road contin-

ues along the foot of Cte de Beaune which prolongs the Cte de Nuits

by a further 20 km to the south. Here, in the land where Chardonnay rei-

gns supreme, are to be found the greatest dry white wines in the world

(Corton-Charlemagne, Montrachet, etc.). Once past Beaune, the wine

capital of Burgundy, the countryside becomes takes on a gentler look as we

approach Santenay and the Sane-et-Loire department.

THE GRANDS CRUS WINE ROAD


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BeaunePernand-VergelessesKennedy and Guy de Maupassant who referred

to it as the king of bon viveurs in one of his

most famous short stories, Bel Ami. Corton-

Charlemagne, the fruit of a walled vineyard

ceded to the collegiate church of Saulieu by the

emperor Charlemagne in 775 AD, is a quite

exceptional grand cru white wine: at once

supple and sinewy, releasing aromas of cin-

namon, exotic fruit and amber, and blessed with

a concentration and balance allowing it to

mature for at least 10 years. Legend has it that

these south-facing parcels, originally consisting

solely of the Pinot Noir grape variety, were

planted with Chardonnay so as to prevent the

red wine from staining the white and hoary

beard of Charlemagne, increasingly prone to

trembling as he advanced in years!

At the foot of this exceptional locality, Pernand-Vergelesses is almost a picture postcard of a

Burgundian wine village, with its traditional

houses huddled around a church with

varnished-tile roof, its steep little streets and the

surrounding vineyards. Above the village, we

can explore the vineyards and woods of the

Hautes-Ctes de Beaune, heading for Magny-

ls-Villers, reputed for the typicity of its Aligot

for over a hundred years, or for Echevronne,

better known for its red fruit (raspberries,

redcurrant and black currant), which are here

transformed into creams, liqueurs and jams.

BURGUNDY WINE CAPITALThe Grands Crus Wine Road now eschews the

main road and reaches Beaune via small roads

running past the vineyards. Our route takes us

through the vineyards of Savigny-les-Beaune.

The sight of a fighter plane protruding between

the vines is not a figment of your (wine stimu-

lated?) imagination, but a foretaste of the

THAT MAN CHARLEMAGNE!On the other side of the road, the famous

Montagne de Corton, a gently rounded hill

situated above Aloxe-Corton (to the east),

Ladoix-Serrigny (to the north) and Pernand-

Vergelesses (to the west) attracts many an

admiring glance. The hill is topped by a woodfrom which rises the white statue of Notre-

Dame de Bonne Esprance (Our Lady of Good

Hope). The hill is encircled by magnificent

terroirs producing some of the greatest wines of

the Cte de Beaune: Corton and Corton-Charle-

magne, for the red and white crus respectively.

The former, originating from a stony parcel on

the sunniest part of the mountain, was

the favourite wine of Voltaire, John Fitzgerald

The Grands Crus Wine Road

WELCOME TO THE HAUTES-CTES

Pending the creation of specific itineraries, you

can enjoy a host of possible routes linking the

Grands Crus Wine Road to the very differentbut equally fascinating Hautes-Ctes: wilder

and more rustic, at times even harsh and

remote. Here, vineyards share the limelight with

farmland, deep coombs and wooded stretches

heavy with the scent of the juniper tree.

The expression Hautes-Ctes took the place

of Arrire-Cte in 1927, the result of pressure

from local agricultural and wine associations

anxious to share in the renown of the Cte and

its wines. The expression refers to the plateau

situated between the Cte and the Ouche Valley

at an average altitude of 300 to 400 metres. The

plateau is usually reached via rocky and woody

coombs, dry valleys carved at right angles to the

Cte and similar to the reculesor blind valleys

of the Jura. A distinction is made between the

Hautes-Ctes de Nuits in the north (the Vergy

area, accessible from Gevrey-Chambertin,

Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-Saint-Georges or

Comblanchien) and the Hautes-Ctes de

Beaune in the south (reached by Ladoix-

Serrigny, Beaune, Pommard and Meursault).

As far as wine is concerned, the Hautes-Ctes

have two regional AOC appellations

red (Pinot Noir) and white (Chardonnay):

Hautes-Ctes de Beaune (496 ha, 20,559 hl of

red wine; 4689 hl of white wine)* and Hautes-

Ctes de Nuits (682 ha, 22,957 hl of red wine;

5107 hl of white wine)*. The wines are for the

most part sturdy, firm and solid reds which need

to mature to give of their best.

*Areas in production in 2005; average annual yieldsover 5 years (2001-2005). Source: BIVB.




Nolay Auxey-Duresses

Beaune

impressive collection ofvintage vehicles (motor-cycles and racing cars

as well as aircraft) on

display at the castle.

Back in the village,we are once more

in the heart of

the Cte, as

testified by

the inscrip-

tions etched

on the pedi-

m e n t s o f

certain houses,

singing the praises

of the local wines as

being, for example, nourish-ing, theologicaland death-repellent!

We now move to the other side of the A6 motor-way, which climbs up towards Paris via the Col(pass) de Bessey-en-Chaule, on our way to firstBouze-les-Beaune and then the Montagne deBeaune. From here there is a marvellous viewover the carpet of vineyards stretching gentlydown as far as the outskirts of Beaune, with theramparts encircling and protecting the townbeyond. It was within these walls that most of thegreat wine merchants settled in the 18h century,

helping to develop and consolidate the potentialof the Burgundy wine business. In addition tothe cellars of the splendid wine houses (wheremillions of bottles are religiously stored) and ofcourse the Htel-Dieu (one of the most visitedmonuments in the country), we discover a townof great architectural and artistic interest. It is atown famous for the good things in life but para-doxically also a secret and mysterious place, fullof silent streets protected by high walls.

THE CTEDES BLANCS

South of Beaune,the Cte starts to

curve away, giving

way to a round er,greener, more open

landscape. As we drawnearer to the Sane-et-

Loire department, we leavebehind us the austere world of

Cteaux and gradually enter theless rigorous universe of Cluny.

Once past the charming villages ofPommard and Volnay, reputed for their

great red wines, we penetrate the Cte des Blancswhich, while it does not correspond to an official

appellation, nevertheless perfectly describes thegeological reality of the terroirs of Meursault,Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet,all particularly well suited to the Chardonnay grapeby virtue of their marly, limestone and gravellysoils. At Monthlie, considered by some as thecradle of Burgundy wines at the time of the Celts,the Grands Crus Wine Road splits into two

YOUR ITINERARYLadoix-Serrigny Santenay(38 km by the main itinerary)

By way of Aloxe-Corton (km 3), Pernand-

Vergelesses (km 5), Savigny-ls-Beaune(km 9), Beaune (km 15), Pommard (km19), Volnay (km 21), Monthlie (km 23),Meursault (km 25), Puligny-Montrachet(km 29), Chassagne-Montrachet (km 33).

At Monthlie, possible detour via Auxey-Duresses, La Rochepot, Saint-Aubin, thenreturn to the main itinerary a little beforeChassagne-Montrachet.

FACTS AND FIGURESThe Cte de Beaune wine area

Surface area: about 6400 hectares, including496 hectares for the AOC BourgogneHautes-Ctes de Beaune.

Production: 310,000 hectolitres, i.e. morethan 40 million bottles per year (55%)in red wine.

Terroir: marly limestone and marl fromthe middle and upper Jurassic period (general-ly younger than the soils of the Cte deNuits).

Grape varieties: Pinot Noir and (locally)Gamay for the red wines, Chardonnay andAligot for the whites.

Crus: apart from the Corton (red and whitegrand cru), the grands crus of the Cte deBeaune are all whites: Corton-Charlemagne,Btard-Montrachet, Montrachet, Bienvenue-Btard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet,Criots-Btard-Montrachet. The grands crusof the Montrachet bring together all thequalities of white burgundies: aromaticcomplexity, strength, firmness and mellow-ness combined with grace.



Santenay

branches, leaving you free to choose between theHigh Road and the Low Road. The High Roadtakes you to Saint-Aubin, at the frontier betweenthe Cte and Hautes-Ctes, via La Rochepot

whose famous chteau with its multi-coloured roof

has become a symbol for the whole of Burgundy.You can also make a detour by Saint-Romain, anauthentic village perched atop a spectacular cliff.The Low Road leads to Meursault, a charming

wine village which was the setting for the much-loved film La Grande Vadrouille, and whose cellarscontain a little matter of 800,000 bottles of wine!Next come the villages of Puligny-Montrachet andChassagne-Montrachet which hold the distinctionof possessing no fewer than five divine white grandscrus, at once structured, harmonious and blessed

with a wholly remarkable finesse. Their number

includes the Montrachet, considered by Burgundyfolk as the greatest white wine in the world.

Alexandre Dumas recommended that it should bedrunk on bended knee and bare-headed. Aunique, quasi-mystical experience to be savouredin one of the numerous cellars along the way. TheGrands Crus Wine Road comes to an end at Sante-

nay, a few kilometres further on. This bustling littletown possesses thermal waters and a casino as well asvineyards. After visiting the local sights (the largestplane tree in France, a chteau with its winedomain, an old restored windmill, the church of

Narosse, etc.), you might feel like journeying to thetop of the Mont de Sne where you can enjoysweeping views over the region in all directions.

After that you c an continue on your way to thedistinctive Maranges area which serves as the junction

with the Cte Chalonnaise. But that is another story and another wine road (see pages 20 to 23).

The Grands Crus Wine Road

Ladoix-Serrigny

To see: the Gallo-Roman steleon the farm of Neuvelle; the

chapel of Notre-Dame duChemin (11C, rebuilt in the15C); the church (13C) and its

Eucharistic oculus (16C); themill on the river Lauve (17C);

the washhouse at Le Buisson.

Event: 1st Sunday in July:Balade Gourmande (Gastro-nomic Jaunt) in the vineyards.

Pernand-Vergelesses

To see: the wine village, oldhouses, church, fountain and

washhouses, etc.To do: climb up to admire theview from the oratory of Notre-Dame de Bonne Esprance.

Savigny-ls-Beaune

To see: the chteau withits wine property and the

Motorcycle, Aviation and Racing

Car Museum; the Romanesquechurch (15C fresco);

To do: take part in a go-taillon (banquet) hosted by the

Confrrie de la Cousinerie deBourgogne in the village winecellar.

Events: 1st weekend in May,Welcome to Savigny (operationOpen Cellars); 3rd weekend

in October, the Foule des

Vendanges (foot race in theheart of the vineyards).

Beaune

To see: the Htel-Dieu; Notre-Dame collegiate church; the old

town and its mansions; the cellarsof the great wine merchants; thetraditional Fallot mustard factory.

To do: visiting the town in theVisiotrain (tourist train); learningabout wine at the Ecole des Vins deBourgogne (weekend sessions, winecourses, lectures with tasting, etc.).

Events:June to September,Cours, Eau, Jardins festival(music, dance and poetry); in July,International Festival of BaroqueOpera; 3rd weekend in November,Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction.

Pommard

To see: the olfactory itineraryof the Chteau de Meursault

and its domain (16C winepress,

vaulted 18C cellars).

Volnay

To see: the chapel of Notre-Dame de Piti (16C); the church

of St-Cyr (14C); the view fromNotre-Dame-des-Vignes, 2,25 m

cast iron statue(19C).

Monthelie

To see: the church of St-Ger-main (12C); the chteau (18C);the old houses in the village.

Events: in May, the Printemps deMonthlie (spring festival); early July,the Monthlie Festival (outdoor spec-tacles, cellars open, activities etc.).

Saint-Romain

To see: two cooperages,including one founded in 1910.

La Rochepot

To see: the chteau, one of the gloriesof Burgundian architectural heritage.

Meursault

To see: the town hall and itspolychrome roofs; the domain

of the Chteau de Meursault

possessing one of the largestwine cellars in Burgundy.

To do: a birds eye view of thevineyards from the vantage pointof a hot-air balloon with the

Ballons libres de Cte-d'Orassociation (Montgolfiades de

Meursault Festival in June).

Events: 3rd Monday inNovember, the Paule de

Meursault (banquet) and litera-ture prize (at the chteau); in

July, De Bach Bacchus festi-val (concerts and wine tasting).

Santenay

To see: the Sorine windmill (Wind-mill Festival in September); thechurch of St-Jean-de-Narosse (15C)on the Falaise des Trois-Croix (Cliffof the Three Crosses).

To do: try your luck with the one-armed bandits at the casino; attend achapter meeting of the Confrrie desGrumeurs (Brotherhood of Wine-growers) at the Chteau du Hardi.

ON THE WAY...

d d




Saint-Gengoux-le-National

he vineyards of the Cte Chalonnaise

date back to the Roman conquest and

developed in the Middle Ages largely

because the commercial centre of Chalon-sur-

Sane was situated on a navigable waterway.

Seemingly lost beyond repair as a result of the

phylloxera scourge in the 19th century, the

Cte made a belated recovery when noble

grape varieties were once more planted on the

best slopes. Recognition came in 1990 in theshape of the appellation d'origine contrle

(AOC) Bourgogne Cte Chalonnaise. Today

this new wine area is going from

strength to strength.

ROAMING AT WILLINTHE COUCHOIS AREA

Starting from Santenay, where we saidgoodbye to the Grands Crus WineRoad (see pages 12 to 19), we get off

to a good start with a loop in theMaranges area: charming and authenticvillages clinging to the sides of vine-cladhills, rustic winegrowers houses hiddenbehind old porches, a smiling country-side dotted with coppices and littlevalleys, cliffs perfect for rock-climbingand numerous viewpoints (Montde Rome, Mont de Sne), etc. Thequasi-monastic austerity of the Cte deNuits is now but a distant memory in

this land where a pleasant surprise awaits you atevery turning: Dezize-ls-Maranges on its hill,Sampigny-ls-Maranges on the banks of theCozanne and Cheilly-ls-Maranges on the riverDheune. These three villages, deep in the heart ofBurgundy, are responsible for seven Pinot Noirpremiers crus (AOC Maranges). This is the mostrecent appellation of the Cte de Beaune whichcomes to an end here, on the border of the CtedOr and Sane-et-Loire departments.

Out and About in the Cte Chalonnaise

TFrom Santenay to Saint-Gengoux-le-National, the Grands Vins Wine Roadprolongs the Grands Crus Wine Road towards the south: a signposted itineraryof over one hundred kilometres linking some 40 communes through the

vineyards of the Maranges, the Couchois and the Cte Chalonnaise.This varied

itinerary blends village and nature, vineyard and hedged farmland, Romanesque

churches and chteaux, and is yours to explore by car, on a boat along the Canaldu Centre, or on your bike along the Voie Verte (no motorised traffic allowed).

THE GRANDS VINS WINE ROAD



Mercurey

There are magnificent views to be enjoyed as youdrop down from Dezize- ls-Maranges towardsParis-l'Hpital. At this point you can choosebetween continuing on the main itinerary toSampigny-ls-Maranges, alongside the Cozanne

river with its little waterfalls, or making a detourthrough the Couchois area on the secondaryitinerary (20 km) before joining up with themain itinerary further south, between Aluze andMercurey. This is an excellent opportunity todiscover a little-known area, marked by history(Chteau de Marguerite de Bourgogne atCouches, Chteau de Dracy) and by theindustrial saga of nearby Le Creusot. For it washere in the 19th century that the Schneiderfamily found the iron ore they so desperatelyneeded. From 1840 to 1950, the exploitation of

this precious commodity was the economicbackbone of the region. In the process Coucheschanged its name to Couches-les-Mines, beforerecently becoming Couches-les-Vignes, theproducer of robust, sturdy wines reflecting the

character of the locality under the regional Ctesdu Couchois appellation. After Couches, wecross the Canal du Centre at Saint-Lger-sur-Dheune where you can try your hand at inland

waterway navigation (little house barges for hireat the marina) and travel down the canal toChalon-sur-Sane. If you prefer, you can alsocover this 35 km stretch on rollerblade or bicyclealong the Voie Verte, a tarmac route reserved fornon-motorised traffic and running along thecanal towpath between the two towns. In thiscase, we meet up with the main itinerary at

Chagny, the first major stop on the Grands VinsWine Road, a few kilometres after the departurepoint at Santenay. Chagny is a port of call on theCanal du Centre and the home of the great chefLameloise. It is also a pleasant holiday centre

noted for its many fine buildings.

THE OPULENT VINEYARDSOF RULLY AND MERCUREY

At this point you are free once again to leave themain itinerary and set off on one of thosedelightful little byways for which the CteChalonnaise is noted: a little country road lined

with low drystone walls and punctuat ed withwayside crosses, communal ovens and beautifullypreserved little churches and traditional houses.

A paradise for walkers! This little back road takes

you to Bouzeron, famous for the quality of itsAligot wines (as you enter the village, a signproudly announces A little village, a great

wine). Then you come to Chasse y-le-Cam p,celebrated for its archaeological site (from

which the t erm chassen, denoting a particularNeolithic civilisation, is derived). We come backto the main road at the hilltop village of Aluze,

where the houses seem to huddle for protectionaround the church, between Rully and Mercurey.

We now penetrate a more bourgeois part of theCte Chalonnaise where wine is the source ofboth its reputation and its wealth. Premiers crusfollow in quick succession and a host of wineproperties beckon you to their cool cellars orsummon you to taste their wines in the sublimesetting of venerable mansions, some of which areveritable little chteaux! Any list of fine winesmust include the name of Rully, a large village

which is equally at home in producing red, whiteand Crmant wines. Rully boasts one of the bestpreserved chteaux in the Cte Chalonnaise, the

The Grands Vins wine road

ONE WINE AREA, FOUR GRAPE VARIETIES

Four legendary grape varieties are to be

found in the Cte Chalonnaise:

Pinot noir which, right from the origins of

wine in Burgundy, has been instrumental in

establishing the reputation of its great red

wines . The vine produ ces purpl ish-b lack

bunches whose little berries contain an

abundant, colourless and sugary juice. It goes

into the composition of the Rully, Mercurey

and Givry appellations.

Chardonnayis to white wine what Pinot is

to red wine, and is the force behind the

great whites of Burgundy, particularly those

of the Cte Chalonnaise. It produces gold-

en clusters, as small as those of the Pinot

Noir but more elongated and thicker, giving

a deliciously sugary white juice. Chardon-

nay grapes are found in the Rully, Mercurey,

Givry and Montagny appellations.

Aligot goes back a long way in Burgundy.

Its grapes are larger and more plentiful than

those of the Chardonnay. They produce all the

Burgundy Aligots and, in the Cte Chalon-

naise, the Bouzeron (the first communal

appellation for this variety in Burgundy).

Gamaya fairly fertile young plant origina-

ting from the village of the same name in

the commune of Saint-Aubin in the Ctede Beaune. On the granite slopes of the

Mconnais and the Beaujolais, the white

juic e of the Gamay Noir prod uce s fine ,

pleasant red wines with a good bouquet,

whereas it gives a more brutish wine on t he

clay-limestone soil of the Cte-dOr. In the

Cte Chalonnaise it is sometimes used in

the making of Crmant de Bourgogne.

L R d Vi d B




property of Montessus family for the last fourcenturies and a match for the sumptuous 19thcentury mansions gracing the village. The affluentlittle town of Mercurey is also renowned for its red

wines , some of whic h bear comp aris on with

the grands crus of the Cte de Beaune. The long-standing wealth of the wine bourgeoisie is reflec-ted in the succession of winegrowers houses andattractive residences lining the principal street.

A TASTE OF THE SOUTHBetween Mercurey and Givry, we once moreturn our back on the main itinerary and setoff in search of one of the gems of the CteChalonnaise, the lush, green Valle des Vaux

which follows the course of the river Orbise.The valley is watched over by the Chteau de

Germolles (12C-14C), the only one of the for-tresses of the Dukes of Burgundy still standingtoday. One cannot fail to be overwhelmed by thesimple beauty of the wine slopes, the authenticcharm of the villages and the harmony of land-scapes combining vine and pasture, orchard anduntrammelled undergrowth. Givry leaves a moreimposing impression with its fortified buildings,its handsome circular market hall, its clock towerspanning the street and its monumental churchbuilt to an astonishing circular plan and crownedby an imposing dome. This captivating town isalso the point of departure for the Voie Verterunning from Cluny to Charnay-les-Mcon, 65kilometres to the south, following the track of adisused railway line. Running parallel to the VoieVerte (no motorised vehicles allowed!), theGrands Vins Wine Road continues on its

way towards the south, sometim es below andsometimes atop the vineyards. At Jambles, itpasses close to Mont Avril (421 m) and yetmore villages: the medieval castle at Moroges, the

fortified Neo-gothic church at Saint-Dsert, theRomanesque church covered with lava at Rosey,

etc. In short, even the smallest village hassomething of interest to offer. Make sure youfind time to visit Buxy and its beautifullyrestored town centre. The church, with amedieval tower linked to the clock-tower bya footbridge is particularly worthy of yourattention. A little further on, Montagny awaitsyou, its little streets laid with paving stones.

YOUR ITINERARYSantenay - St-Gengoux-le-National (75 km)

Principal itinerary via Cheilly-ls-Maranges,Sampigny-ls-Maranges, Dezize-ls-Maranges,

Chagny, Rully, Aluze, Mercurey, Mellecey, Givry,Moroges, Saint-Dsert, Buxy, Montagny-ls-Buxy,Chenves, Saint-Boil.

Variants

Ctes du Couchois: about 24 km betweenParis-l'Hpital and Charrecey.Bouzeron: about 10 km between Chagny and Aluze.

Valle des Vaux: about 12 km betweenMercurey and Jambles.

FACTS AND FIGURESThe Maranges, Couchois and CteChalonnaise wine areas.

The Maranges communal appellation occu-pies the southernmost tip of the Cte deBeaune, of which it forms part, covering thevillages of Dezize, Sampigny and Cheilly-les-Maranges. It produces red wines for ageingwith aromas of red fruit and hints of flowers.

The Couchois wine areahas more in commonwith the Hautes-Ctes de Beaune, producingrobust and coloured wines under the regionalBourgogne Ctes du Couchois appellation.

The Cte Chalonnaise wine area is thenatural prolongation of the Cte de Beaune,with identical geological features and grapevarieties. Such is the reputation of its wines

nowadays that many consider them to repre-sent the best value for money in Burgundy.- Surface area: about 4800 hectares of vines,covering a strip 25 km long and 7 km wide.- Terroir: clay-limestone soil dating fromthe Jurassic period (clay favourable forChardonnay); vineyard altitude varyingfrom 250 to 370 metres.- Grape varieties: reds - Pinot Noir andGamay (around Buxy and in the Couchois);whites - Chardonnay and Aligot (especiallyat Bouzeron).- Production: 237,000 hectolitres, i.e.over 30 million bottles per year, spreadroughly equally between red wines (55%)and whites including Crmant.- Wines: 5 communal appellations (Bouzeron,

Mercurey, Rully, Givry and Montagny) ofwhich 2 are for white wine only (Bouzeronand Montagny), the rest being regional appel-lations (the Bourgogne Cte Chalonnaiseappellation has existed since 1990). The mostcharacteristic reds (Mercurey, Givry) arewell-structured and fruity wines for ageing(reaching full maturity after 5 to 8 years) witharomas of morello cherry and blackcurrant.The best white vintages (Montagny, Rully) aredelicate, quality wines of a beautiful goldcolour with green tints.


23/40


Couches

Climb to the top of the village for a magnificentview of 300 hectares of vineyards producing itsfamous white wine. Saint-Gengoux-le-National isthe end of the line as far as this infinitely captiva-ting Grands Vins Wine Road is concerned. It is aquiet and flourishing shopping town, with themedieval district backing on to Mont Goubot, its

vast promenade lined with plane trees and enti-cing terraces. Here, the air is softer and balmier,the walls more colourful, the tiles on the roofsrounder. In short, the vineyards have an unmistak-able southern look about them. Indeed, if wecontinue towards the south we will very sooncome to the Mconnais (see pages 24 to 27).

The Grands Vins wine road

Throughout the itinerary

La Chasse aux trsors(treasure hunt): in April, theGrands Vins Wine Road organises

a weekend rally for motorists and

cyclists: a fun way to discover the

vineyards and meet the winegrow-

ers through a series of riddles.

In the Maranges

To see: views in all directionsfrom the top of the Mont de

Rome (545 m); the old wine-

growers houses in the villages

of Sampigny-ls-Maranges and

Dezize-ls-Maranges.

To do: rock-climbing on thecliffs of the Mont de Rome.

Event: early April, Du ct desMaranges (wine cellars open to

the public and various activities).

In the Couchois

To see: the Chteau deMarguerite de Bourgogne at

Couches; the little wine museum

on the property of La Tour Bajole

at Saint-Maurice-les-Couches.

Events: early August,La Ronde du Couchois (wine

cellars open to the public); early

July, jazz festival at Couches.

Chalon-sur-Sane

To see: the Old Town, the

square and the market of the

Cathedral of Saint-Vincent; the

Niepce Museum (dedicated to

the inventor of photography).

Event : early July, Chalon dansla Rue (street festival).

Chagny

To see: the old hospitalpharmacy.

To do: a houseboat outing onthe Canal du Centre.

Rully

To see: the medieval fortressof the Chteau de Rully and

its wine estate.Event: in April, Rully Mill-sime (wine tasting in the cellar

of Rully Producers Union).

Mercurey

To see: the little village ofTouches, its beautiful winegrowers

houses and Romanesque church.

To do: attend a chapter of theConfrrie Saint-Vincent et des

Disciples de la Chanteflte at the

Chteau de Garnerot.

Givry

To see: the Town Hall, built inthe old clock tower; the market

hall (19C); the church built to a

circular plan, masterpiece of late

18C architecture; the Chteau de

Germolles at Mellecey (14C).

To do: hiking on the MontAvril nature trail (departure

from Cercot near Jambles);

cycling or roller-skatingalong the Voie Verteas

far as Mcon.

Events: early July, LesMusicaves (music and wine);

early April, wine market under

the circular market hall.

Buxy

To see: the church (12C); theWine Museum; the medieval

houses (staircase turrets).

To do: sampling vintagewines in the converted cellar of

the Tour Rouge, a remnant of

the villages old castle.

Events: early July, Les Music-arires (street spectacles under the

aegis of the Montagny appellation).

Saint-Gengoux-le-National

To see: the old houses (Maisondu Prieur, Maison des

Concurs, Maison du Bailli,

etc.); the church built by the

monks of Cluny.

To do: an excursion to Culles-les-Roches (6 km to the north),

pretty, typically Burgundian

little village, situated at the foot

of a cliff.

ON THE WAY...

L R d Vi d B


24/40



Cluny

tarting at Saint-Gengoux-le-National,

we leave the vineyards for a while and

take the pretty little D67 minor road

which carries us from the Cte Chalonna ise

to the Mconnais via Chapaize at the

northern limit of the Cluny area. The

remarkable village church, built around theyear 1000, reminds us of the important role

played by religion in the vicinity. Indeed

Cluny, the old Light of Christianity, is no

more than 20 km to the south-east; the

ecumenical community of Taiz, where the

late lamented Brother Roger officiated,

is even nearer; Tournus and the abbey-

church of Saint-Philibert (s imilar in

architecture to the church of Chapaize) a

mere 15 km to the east as the crow flies.

These and other s i tes are well worth a

detour for all those interested in history,

particularly religious history.

Indicated by the Suivez la grappe panels

showing a smiling young girl wreathed in

golden clusters of grapes, one of the 8

circuits of the Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine

Road (Circuit 4, 90 km) takes you into the

heart of the Cluny area which has succeeded

in preserving i ts architectural heritage

although it has lost most of its vineyards.

The Call of the South

S

THE MCONNAIS-BEAUJOLAIS WINE ROAD

The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road prolongs the Grands Vins Wine Road

towards the south and constitutes the last stage of our long, uninterrupted

journey through the vineyards which started back in Dijon. The main itinerary

l eads more o r l es s d irec tl y through the v ineyards o f the Mconna is to

Romanche-Thorins in the Sane-et-Loire department, but there are eight

circuits in all taking you into the depths of the most southerly of the Burgundy

wine areas. Suivez la grappe- just follow the sign of the grape bunch!


25/40


Chanes

Blanot

of the hills. A few kilometres further on,

Bissy-la-Mconnaise confirms what we had

already half suspected: we have left Tournus

and the world of the Burgundian dukes behind

us, and have entered the very different world

of the Mconnais.From now on, the local patois has more

in common with the dialects of the south

(Languedoc, the language of Oc), the flat-tiled

roofs give way to the flatter tiles and less

steeply inclined roofs of the south, the fronts

of houses are now graced with a gallery

reached from an outside staircase under which

lies the entrance to a vaulted cellar, and so on.

BETWEEN CLUNY AND TOURNUSContinuing along the main itinerary, we

quickly make our way to Brancion. This

gateway to the Mconnais wine area is situated

at an altitude of 400 m on a rocky spur com-

manding the passage between the Sane valleyto the east and the Grosne valley in the west.

Echoes of this strategic position live on today

in the shape of a medieval village grouped

around the remains of the old feudal castle in

an exceptional setting. The view over the entire

region from the top of the keep gives a

very clear picture of the transition from the

winegrowing Mconnais in the south, with its

As elsewhere, it was expanded and developed by

monks, this time Cluniacs and not Cistercians.With the exception of the area around Lugny and

the southern part of the winegrowing sector, the

Mconnais was planted almost exclusively in

Gamay until the 18th century. But as from 1810,

the Chardonnay grape variety, taking its name

from a local village 6 km south-east of Martailly-

ls-Brancion, started to gain the ascendancy and

today accounts for 85% of plantations.

Apart from the predominance of white wines,

the Mconnais is notable for its long tradition of

cooperative cellars, thirteen of which are still

active today. These are mostly in the northern

part, in places like Lugny (3 km from Bissy-la-

Mconnaise, on Circuit 2) which has the largest

cooperative in the area. As is usually the case, its

members products (white, red and ros wines,

Crmant de Bourgogne) are available for sale

in a specially prepared tasting cellar. The wine

storehouse can be visited, and once a year a

special open day is organised. In short, a visit

to a cooperative is an excellent way to get to

vine-clad slopes and often bare hilltops (the

upland cras conducive to sheep farming), and

the greener more densely wooded relief of the

pastoral Cluny countryside to the west.

Once we get past Martailly-ls-Brancion, the

itinerary once again becomes more direct,

following little country roads south alongside

the Monts du Mconnais, parallel to the Sane

and the A6 motorway on the other side

In short, there is a definite air of the south, as

seen also in landscapes characterised

by mixed farming (winegrowing but also crop

and livestock farming).

CHARDONNAY COUNTRYLike most of its counterparts in other parts of Bur-

gundy, the Mconnais winegrowing area dates

back to the Roman era (the 3rd century AD).

The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

MAKING SENSE OF THEDIFFERENT APPELLATIONS

Its not always easy to find ones way about the informa-

tion contained on the labels of wine bottles. But inactual fact Burgundy wines are classified according to

very precise rules which are quite simple once you get

the hang of them. There are four appellation levels:

- The regional appellation concerns wines produced

in three departments (Yonne, Cte d'Or and Sane et

Loire). It may be followed by the name of the grape

variety (for example, Bourgogne Aligot) or a produc-

tion area (for example, Bourgogne Cte Chalonnaise).

There are 23 regional appellations in Burgundy (53%

of production).

- The communal appellation refers to the wines

produced on the territory of a wine commune (village)from which it takes its name (for example, Saint-Vran

or Beaune). There are 44 communal appellations in

Burgundy (35% of production).

- The premier cru designation is an additional

criterion of quality concerning the communal

appellations produced on a particular climat, that is to

say a precisely delimited parcel whose name may appear

on the label (for example, Beaune Premier Cru Les

Grves). There are 622 climatsclassified as premiers

crus (10% of production).

- Lastly, the grand cru appellation is the supreme

accolade for wines produced on the best climats (for

example, Montrachet, Corton, Chablis Grand Cru Les

Clos). There are 32 grands crus in the Cte-d'Or and 1

in Chablis (on 7 different climats) representing less

than 2% of wine production in Burgundy. In 2005

total production came to 176 million bottles, spread

over 101 appellations dorigine contrles (AOC)

and together representing the scope and richness of the

Burgundian wine area.



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the aptly named La Roche-Vineuse, we are ready to follow

in the footsteps of the poetAlp hons e de Lam art ine

(Circuit 5, 50 km): a lite-

rary and nostalgic pilgrim-age from the family house

of Milly to the chteaux hefrequented (Pierreclos, Saint-

Point, Priss-Montceau, and soon), not forgetting the villages

inhabited by his friends (Berz-la-Ville, Tramayes, etc.). Mcon withits Lamartine Museum, its olddistrict and its shops is no more

than 10 kilometres away.

GREAT WHITE WINESAND A WINDMILL!Bussires marks the entrance to thesouthern part of the wine area, home tothe finest vintages of the Mconnais.Prosperity came early to this areawhi ch is alm ost ent irel y devo ted towinegrowing and w here privat e cellars

k n o w t h ev a r i ou sappella-tions and

f i n d o u tmore aboutthe world of

winegrowing inthe Mconnais.Leaving to oureast the villageso f V ir a ndCless, produ-cers of a white

wine of repute( t he V ir -

Cless commu-nal appellationwas obtained in1997, the hun-dredth and lastbut one AOCfor Burgundy winesat the time of writing),the Mconnais-Beaujolais WineRoad continueson its leisurelysouthward

journey, buil-ding up animpre ss ivecollection of placenames ending with theletter : Saint-Gengoux-de-Sciss, Az, Ig, Verz, etc., not to mention cellars,estates, Romanesque churches, traditional housesand viewpoints at every turning. Once we get to

YOUR ITINERARYFrom Saint-Gengoux-le-National toRomanche-Thorins (about 70 km)

In addition to the signposting common to all theBurgundy Wine Roads (panel showing a white bunchof grapes on a brown background), the Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road is marked by a thousand Suivezla grappe (Follow the Bunch of Grapes) signs depictinga young girl with a bunch of grapes on her head.

PRINCIPAL ITINERARY

Via Chapaize, Brancion, Bissy-la-Mconnaise,Saint-Gengoux-de-Sciss, Az, Ig, Verz, La Roche-Vineuse, Bussires, Pierreclos, Serrires, Chasselas,Saint-Vrand, Saint-Amour-Bellevue, La Chapelle-de-Guinchay.

SECONDARY CIRCUITS

In addition to the main itinerary, there is a choice of8 tourist, cultural and gastronomic circuits with atotal of 64 stopovers:

- Circuit n1: 42 km between Tournus and Brancion.(10 stages)

- Circuit n 2: 60 km between Bissy-la-Mconnaiseand Fleurville on the banks if the Sane. (9 stages)

- Circuit n 3: 40 km between Verz and Mcon.(9 stages)

- Circuit n 4: 90 km between Chapaize and Cluny.(9 stages)

- Circuit n5: 50 km between La Roche-Vineuse andSaint-Point in the footsteps of Lamartine. (11 stages)

- Circuit n 6: 40 km between Chnes and Mcon.(9 stages)

- Circuit n 7: 25 km between Vinzelles, Vergissonand Solutr-Pouilly. (3 stages)

- Circuit n 8: 45 km between Romanche-Thorinsand Crches-sur-Sane. (5 stages)

FACTS AND FIGURESThe Mconnais Wine Area

Surface area: 6200 hectares (the largest wine area inBurgundy), over a stretch 35 km long (from Sennecey-le-Grand in the north to Saint-Vrand in the south) and 10

km wide (between the Grosne valley in the west and theSane valley in the east).

Terroir: clay-limestone of the Jurassic period. Limestoneor calcic soils for the Chardonnay; siliceous, clayey orsandy soils, often mixed with gravel (sandstone pebbles)for the Gamay.

Grape varieties: Chardonnay for white wines (85% ofplantations), Gamay Noir (white juice) for red Mconwines; Pinot Noir locally.

Production: 411,000 hectolitres, i.e. almost 55 millionbottles per year, including 85% in white wine and 20% incommunal appellations (Saint-Vran, Pouilly-Fuiss,

Pouilly-Loch, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Vir-Cless).

Wines: dry white wines characterised by floral and fruityaromas with typically Chardonnay traces of almond andhazelnut. The character of the Mcon rouge depends on thelocality. If it comes from clay-limestone soil, it will be fresh andlight and should be drunk young. On the granite or siliceoussoil in the southern part of the Mconnais it becomes fleshyand full-bodied, and should be left to mature for a while inorder to bring out its aromas of spices and cooked fruits.


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Roche de Solutr

letter d at the end, though no-one quite knowswhy), another white wine reputed for its finesseand elegance, signals the end of the Mconnais

wine area. Beyond this point , the Wine roadcontinues along the little strip of the Sane-et-

Loire that juts into the Rhne department. Thevineyards are still all around us but they are nowpart of the Beaujolais. Although the wines ofBeaujolais have been officially classified since1930 as part of the Burgundy wine area, they infact fall into a very different category, and areconsidered as foreign. Nevertheless thevintages of this Burgundian peninsula Chnas,

Juli na s, Sai nt- Amo ur, Mou lin -- Vent, etc . coexist peacefully with their northern neighbours.

After La Chapelle-de-Guinchay, the Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road comes to an end under the

haughty shadow of the windmill (moulin vent)which looks down on the vineyards producingthe grand cru wine to which it has bequeathedits name. You will be tempted to linger awhileat Romanche-Thorins, the last stage of our

journey, with its zoo, an amusement park anda large tourist centre dedicated to Beaujolais

wines and traditions.

predominate over cooperatives. In this land of thePouillys (Pouilly-Fuiss, Pouilly-Loch, Pouilly-Vinzelles), those beguiling ambassadors forMconnais white wine, the gently sloping hills,bathed in vines, lap against the craggy rocks ofVergisson and Solutr. The latter, described by the

writer R. Gouze as a sphinx with its claws plantedin the vines, is well worth a visit, not only for itsnatural beauty and the superb view from the sum-mit (493 metres) but also for its prehistoric his-tory, described in detail in the museum built inthe bowels of the rock.The village of Saint-Vrand, which has given itsname to Saint-Vran (the appellation has shed the

The Mconnais-Beaujolais Wine Road

Chapaize

To see: the Romanesque church(11C) and its 35 m high tower; the

workshops of the village craftsmen

(gilded wood, baked clay, jewels).

Cormatin

To see: the chteau (17C)known as the M con na is

Chambord (drama festival in

summer); the bicycle museum.

To do: a cycling or rollerbladeexcursion on the Voie Verte.

Brancion

To see: the medieval site (feudal

castle, Romanesque church, Renais-sance houses, market hall and 15C

inn) and the view over the Grosne

valley; in the vicinity: the distinctive

villages of Uchizy and Ozenay

(stone-roofed chteau and church).

Cluny

To see: remains of the abbey andthe Museum of Art and Archaeo-

logy; the numerous Romanesque

churches; the National Stud.

Event: in August, the GrandesHeures de Cluny (chamber

music festival).

Tournus

To see: the Old Town and theabbey church of St-Philibert (11C

and 12C); the Htel-Dieu and the

Greuze Museum (archaeology, fine

arts); the Perrin de Puycousin

Burgundian Museum (folklore).

To do: a river cruise on

the Sane.

Bissy-la-Mconnaise

To do: climb to the top of MontSaint-Romain (579 m) via the Col

de la Pistole, view over the Cluny

area and the Mconnais.

Az

To see: the caves (prehistoricremains, underground river);

archaeological museum (objects

from Prehistory and the Middle

Ages discovered in the region).

Berz-le-Chtel

To see: the medieval site (ram-parts, castle, fortified chapel, ter-

raced gardens, etc.).

Bussires

To do: the Lamartine trail,between Bussires and Milly.

Event: end of January, theSaint-Vincent Tournante du

Triangle d'or (wine festival

alternating between Bussires,

Pierreclos and Serrires).

Pierreclos

To see: the castle (12C and15C) dominating the Grosne

valley, and its wine estate.

Milly-Lamartine

To see: Lamartines house(18C); in the vicinity, the

Chteau de Saint-Point, modi-

fied by the poet, and theChteau de Priss-Monceau, his

winegrowers residence.

Solutr-Pouilly

To see: the DepartmentalMuseum of Prehistory, the

Atrium of Pouilly-Fuiss.

To do: climb to the top of therock of Solutr (493 m) or

its twin sister, the rock of

Vergisson (485 m), for a view

over the vineyards and well

beyond in both cases.

Mcon

To see: the Old Town and theSt-Laurent bridge (11C);

the marina; the Lamartine and

Ursuline museums (archaeology,

ethnology, fine arts); the

Htel-Dieu and its hospital

pharmacy; the Maison des Vins

(wine centre).

Romanche-Thorins

To see: Touroparc zoo (120 ani-mal species) and amusement park;

the Hameau du Vin, tourist site

of the wine merchant Georges

Duboeuf, devoted to Beaujolais

winegrowing and traditions.

ON THE WAY...


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Irancy

Auxerre

Pontigny

Jussy

town in pleasant, harmonious countrysidepunctuated with beautiful churches and cherrytrees which have partly superseded the vines. Theroad first runs through Escolives-Sainte-Camille(an archaeological site where a Gallo-Roman fresco

was dis cov er ed tes tif yin g to th e pr ese nceof vineyards as early as the 2nd century), Jussy,Coulange-la-Vineuse, etc., before crossing the

Yonne at Cravant on its way to Irancy via the Ctede Palotte. From Vincelottes, we move on to Bailly

and its cellars, reputed for their Crmant deBourgogne (see box), and then continue on our

way to Chitry and Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, two very

pretty villages of the Ctes-dAuxerre.

CHABLIS: GOLDEN GATEWAY OF BURGUNDYWe pass smoothly from the valley of the Yonne tothe romantic Serein valley, home of the famousChablis dry white wine - distinguished, lively,fruity, often copied but never equalled. With itscharacteristic mineral taste and gold-green colour,Chablis accounts for two-thirds of all wineproduction in the Yonne department. From thevantage point of Prhy, the eye takes in virtually the

whole of the Chablis vineyards, enabling us tovisualise the hierarchy of the various appellations:Petit Chablis (on the plateaux), Chablis (northernand eastern slopes), Chablis Premier Cru(both banks of the Serein) and Chablis Grand Cru(right bank of the Serein), all with the sameChardonnay grape variety.Breaking our journey at Chablis, we explore thetreasures of this little town (old district, collegiatechurch of Saint-Martin, wine cellars, etc.), and findtime to sample the localitys other claim to fame,

The Yonne Wine Road

CRMANT DE BOURGOGNEAlong with Rully in the Sane-et-Loire department

and the Chtillonnais in the north of the Cte-dOr

department, the Auxerrois is a bastion of sparkling

wines. The AOC "Crmant de Bourgogne" waslaunched in 1975 at the instigation of the SICA du

Vignoble Auxerrois(agricultural cooperative company).

This wine (white or ros) is elaborated according

to the so-called traditional method which is exactly

the same as that used in the making of champagne:

the basic wines are produced in the same way as any

still wine and then a sugar and yeast-based liqueur is

added for a second fermentation in the bottle known

asprise de mousse. The AOC, which covers the entire

zone of the "Bourgogne" appellation, carries certain

obligations and restrictions. For example, the grapes

must be harvested manually and transported in

pierced crates. Different white and red grape varieties

may be used in elaborating these dry or semi-dry

wines which are appreciated for their richness in the

mouth, finesse and persistent bubbles.

In the Yonne department, the immense cellars

of Bailly contain at any one time between four

and five million bottles. Another temple

of Crmant de Bourgogne is to be found at the

Imaginarium at Nuits-Saint-Georges an invitation

to take a sensory journey into the world of bubbly.



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Tonnerre

the deliciousa n d o u i l l e t t es a u s ag e , b e f o r emaking our way up to the

Air e des Clo s, at the top of the

Grand Cru vineyards: Vaudsir, Valmur,Blanchot, Grenouilles, les Clos, les Preusesand Bougros, seven gems clinging to thesteep and stony slopes of the right bank

THE TONNERREWINE AREA:LAND OF STONE ANDWATER

Even more so than its neighbours, theTonnerrois has come back from the brink.In the 19th century the winegrowing areacovered over 5000 hectares and the wines

were acclaimed by the high and mighty, from

Henri IV to Alexandre Dumas who rated theOlivottes de Dannemoine among the greatFrench red wines. But by the 1960s the recordsshowed only two winegrowers in activity. TheTonnerrois vineyards were given up for dead andfor the most part replaced by cereal farming. Andyet, following the example set by the pretty hillsidevillage of Epineul with its representative, very fruityand light red wines, the wine business started torecover in the 1970s. Since 1989, vines have been

YOUR ITINERARYOne route, five circuits

Situated just 90 minutes from Paris, the Yonne WineRoad is divided into five circuits covering all the

winegrowing areas of the department. An open invi-tation to discover, as the fancy takes you, picturesquevillages, tourist and cultural attractions, temptinginns and restaurants and to set off in search of wine-growers who will be only too happy to share theirlove of wine with you. There are 120 cellars open tovisitors, including 44 signatories of the FromVineyards to Cellars hospitality charter.

1- The Joigny wine area (Vignoble du Jovinien)30 km loop starting from Joigny, via Paroy, Tholon,Senan, Volgr and Chamvres.

2- The Tonnerre wine area (Vignoble duTonnerrois) Two loops starting from Tonnerre:- south bank of the Armanon (about 30 km)via Junay, Vzinnes, Roffey, Bernouil, Vzannes

and Serrigny.- north bank of the Armanon (about 10 km) viaEpineuil, Molosmes and Vaulichires.

3- The Chablis wine area (Vignoble duChablisien)Two loops starting from Chablis:- south of Chablis (about 20 km ) via Prhyand Courgis- on either side of the Serein river (about 70 km):south bank - Milly, Beine, Villy, Lignorelles,Pontigny, then on the north bank - Ligny-le-Chtel, Maligny, Fontenays-prs-Chablis, Fy,Fleys, Viviers, Bru, Poilly-sur-Serein, and thenback to the south bank - Chemilly-sur-Serein,Chiche and back to Chablis.

4- The Auxerre wine area (Vignoble delAuxerrois) 80 km loop starting from Auxerre viaVaux, Escolives-Sainte-Camille, Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Vincelles, Champs-sur-Yonne, Bailly,Vincelottes, Cravant, Irancy, Chitry, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Quenne and Nangis.

5- Vzelay wine area (Vignoble du Vzelien)20 km loop starting from Vzelay via Saint-Pre,Tharoiseau, Prcy-le-Moult, Pierre-Perthuisand Asquins.


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h d ll d


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M.

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Nevers Saint-Andelain

variety and, to a lesser degree, the Pouilly-sur-

Loire, the product of the Chasselas variety. Both

of these dry, fruity white wines acquired AOC

status in 1937. The former (not to be confused

wit h Poui lly -Fu iss (Ch ard onn ay) in the

M c o nn ai s) i s k n ow n a nd r e co g ni se dthroughout the world, indeed 60% of the wine

is exported. It owes its unusual name to the

grapes from which it is made. When they ripen,

the dense little berries of the Sauvignon Blanc are

covered with a grey bloom which is the colour of

fume or smoke. But the term also refers to the

characteristic flint-stone aromas conferred by the

Pouilly locality, in addition to the pronounced

fruitiness of the wine. Still keeping to the banks

of the Loire whose waters flow between little

islands, gravel and sand banks, we quickly come

to the quiet little town of Pouilly-sur-Loire whoseactivity has since time immemorial centred on

the river and the wine trade.

LITTLE VILLAGES AND GREAT CHTEAUXIn the town, now a much appreciated gastro-

nomic centre, the Clos de Chaumiennes and a

few old winegrowers houses stand as reminders

of Pouillys history as a wine producer. Along

the banks of the Loire, you can still see the

remains (quays, docks) of the port built by the

townspeople in the 19th century to facilitate the

wine trade. The metal bridge spanning the river,

built from 1899, is still used today. Continuing

on our way betwixt Loire and vineyards, we come

to the charming little village of Les Loges where

there are still many 19th century winegrowers

houses to be seen. They can be spotted by the

presence of an outside stairway straddling the cel-

lar and providing access to the ground floor. In

this part of the wine area, the half-buried wine

cellar was built first and the building was then

THE OTHER WINE AREAS OF THE NIVREAlthou gh the Nivre is less readil y associa ted with wine than the other three depart ments of the Burgun dy region,

it nevertheless has its fair share of little-known vineyards which are well worth getting to know. In addition to the vineyards we

have encountered on the Wine Road (Pouilly and the Coteaux du Giennois), there are three other little areas to look out for, if

only for their originality:

- Vignoble des Coteaux charitois: near La Charit-sur-Loire, and more Burgundian in atmosphere; produces a white wine, for

the most part in Chardonnay, and a red wine in Pinot Noir and on occasion Gamay.

- Vignoble du Rioussat: since 1993, south of Nevers and near Saint-Pierre on the banks of the Allier, this old wine area has taken on a

new lease of life thanks to the determination of the mayor of Livry and the backing of 580 shareholders. Over an area of

15 hectares, it produces red wines (Pinot Noir and Gamay), a white wine (Chardonnay), a bled ros (blend of Pinot and Gamay), a spark-

ling wine (Pinot and Chardonnay blend) and a vin gris(white wine made from red grapes, particularly Pinot Noir).

- Vignoble de Tannay: in 1990, in the Vaux d'Yonne (Yonne Vales), to the south of Clamecy, a handful of enthusiasts

decided to reconstruct the vineyards of yesteryear. Today, there are some forty hectares of vines shared between five

independent winegrowers. A collective wine-making cellar, situated at Tannay, produces white, red and ros wines.

The Coteaux de Pouilly-Sancerre Wine Road



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Clamecy

erected in function of the restrictions imposed by

the cellar. We now leave the riverside and climb

up through the vineyards to the village of Saint-

Andelain. From here there is a superb view over

the Loire valley on both the Nivre and Berry

sides of the river with the Donzy and Sancerre

hills beyond. Here, the Chteau du Nozet, rebuiltin the 19th century in the flamboyant

Neo-Gothic style, rises proudly from the middle

of the Ladoucette estate, one of the great names

in Pouilly-Fum wine.

ACROSSTHE RIVERAND INTO THE CHER DEPARTMENT

We pass under the motorway and arrive at Tracy-

sur-Loire and its chteau, fief of another great

wine property which has been in the hands of the

Estutt dAssay family for over four hundred years.

A wine tasting can be arranged in this prestigioussetting. A little further on, the road crosses the

Loire and we find ourselves in the neighbouring

department of the Cher and in another wine area

of repute, the Sancerre. The good relations exis-

ting between the Sancerre and Pouilly vineyards

are reflected in the motto of the Confrrie des

Baillis de Pouilly-sur-Loire: Water divides us but

wine unites us. Over an area of

2800 hectares and 14 communes,

this wine-growing area in the Centre-

Loire region produces white wines from

the Sauvignon grape variety, but also

Pinot Noir reds and ross that are quite

similar to the wines of Pouilly-sur-Loire.After 20 kilometres or so in the

Sancerrois, the road crosses

the Loire again and we

find ourselves once more

in the Nivre at Cosne-

Cours-sur-Loire at the

confluence of the Loire and

the Nohain. After you have

visited the town, you can

choose between taking the A77

motorway which will bring you back to

where you started, or climbing up to Saint-Pre-les-Cosne in the upper part of the town.

Here, you are in the heart of the Cosne vineyards

which produce white, red and ros wines under

the Coteaux du Giennois appellation. The

name is taken from the town of Gien, in the Loiret

department downstream on the Loire, which

marks the northern limit of the appellation.

YOUR ITINERARYPouilly-sur-Loire Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire(43 km)

Via Les Loges, Saint-Andelain,Tracy-sur-Loire, Saint-Satur,Sancerre, Les Fouchards.

Th C d P ill S Wi R d


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M.

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Pouilly-sur-Loire

Pouilly-sur-Loire

To see: church of Saint-Pierre (13C) underthe dual patronage of Saint Nicholas (for the boat-

men) and Saint-Vincent (for the winegrowers);

the Pavillon du Milieu de Loire (information

centre on the natural habitats of the river and

the Pouilly vineyards permanent exhibition:

Between Wine and Water); Les Moulins Vent

cooperative wine cellar.

To do:walking along the Milieu de Loire trails,footpaths for exploring the Val de Loire nature reserve

and the vineyards (3 circuits

Wine Road Burgundy

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