The Tea Book

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THE

BOOK


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Linda Gaylard

THE

BOOK


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DK UKProject Editor Kathy WoolleyProject Art Editor Vicky ReadUS Editor Rebecca WarrenUS Senior Editor Shannon BeattyManaging Editor Dawn HendersonManaging Art Editor Christine KeiltySenior Jacket Creative Nicola PowlingPre-Production Producer Dragana PuvacicProducer Jen Scothern

Deputy Art Director Maxine PedlihamDesign Director Phil OrmerodPublisher Peggy Vance

DK INDIASenior Editor Dorothy KikonEditors Seetha Natesh, Gopa PinchaArt Editors Neha Wahi, Sourabh ChallariyaManaging Editor Alicia IngtyManaging Art Editor Navidita ThapaDTP Designers Tarun Sharma,

Syed Md. FarhanPre-production Manager Sunil Sharma

Published in the United States by DK Publishing,345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014

A Penguin Random House Company

15 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1001 259432 July/2015

Copyright 2015 Dorling K indersley LimitedAll rights reserved.

Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above,no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in orintroduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted in any formor by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permissionof the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.

A catalogue record for this book is available fromthe Library of Congress

ISBN 978-1-4654-3606-1

A NOTE ON THE MAPS: See page 224DK books are available at special discounts whenpurchased in bulk for sales promotions, premiums,fund-raising, or educational use. For details, contact:DK Publishing Special Markets, 345 Hudson Street,New York, New York 10014 or [email protected].

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FOREWORD 7

WHAT IS TEA? 8Todays tea lover 10

Whats new in tea? 12

The plant that changed the world 14

Growth and harvest 16

Terroir 18

The production process 20Plantation to teapot 22

One plant, many teas 24

Matcha 28

Blooming tea 30

Health benefits of tea 32

THE PERFECT INFUSION 34

Tea bag or loose-leaf tea? 36How to store tea 38

Cupping like a professional 40

Getting the most from your tea 42

The science of flavor 48

Flavor appreciation 50

Water 52

Tea-making equipment 54

New ways to infuse tea 58Blending teas 60

TEAS OF THE WORLD 64China 74

Chinese Gongfu Cha 78

India 84

Sri Lanka 92

Japan 96Japanese Chanoyu 98

Taiwan 106

South Korea 110

Korean Darye 112

Turkey 118

Vietnam 120

Nepal 121

Kenya 122Indonesia 124

Thailand 125

United States of America 128

TISANES 130What is a tisane? 132

Roots 134

Bark 136

Flowers 138

Leaves 140

Fruits and seeds 142

Preparing tisanes 144Wellness tisanes 146

Wheel of wellness 148

THE RECIPES 150Green tea 152

Iced Tea 162

White tea 164

Oolong tea 169

Kombucha 174

Black tea 176

Masala Chai 182

Yellow tea 191

Bubble tea 192

Hot tisanes 198

Cold tisanes 204

FEATURESHistory of tea 66

Afternoon tea 72

Chinese tea culture 76

Indian tea culture 90

Tea customs around the world 94

Russian tea culture 104

Tea cups from around the world 108

Moroccan tea culture 126

Glossary 218

Index 219

Acknowledgments 224

CONTENTS


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FOREWORDThere are two questions that I am often asked when people learn that I am

a tea sommelier: first, what is a tea sommelier? and second, how did I become

so interested in tea?

I like to answer the second question first. While it might imply that there was

an exact moment in time when I abandoned the tea bags and elected to follow

the true path of tea, this was not the case. Rather, there was a gradualintroduction to loose-leaf tea that slowly and steadily changed my perspective.

Through study, experience, travelling to places where tea originated, and learning

from industry masters, I found myself immersed in the world of tea.

The nuances of other tea cultures were revealed layer by layer, as I came to

understand their unique styles of tea and their traditions of preparation and

serving. While formalities are to be respected with ceremonies and traditions, the

modern approach to tea encourages fresh experiences such as tea mixology, cold

infusions, latts, and much more. I enjoy discovering new ways to experience tea,

sometimes fusing the practices of one culture with those of another.

The first question still hangs in the air, and I hope that after answering the

how, the what begins to make sense. The tea sommelier has the challenging

task of convincing tea drinkers that there is much more to tea than a mug and

a tea bag. Beyond the bag there is mystery, history, travel, industry, culture,

and ceremony: a whole new world to explore.

I want The Tea Bookto be your entry into this vast and enticing universe.

Whether you are new to loose leaves or know your oolong from your Puer, you

will find something to interest you. I hope you will develop your own thirst for

tea, and the adventures it will provide.

Linda Gaylard


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WHAT IS TEA?


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10 WHAT IS TEA?

TODAYS TEA LOVERThere is more high-quality loose-leaf tea available to us, and more infusiongadgets to prepare it, than ever before. This is creating a culture of teafollowers with a thirst for knowledge and new tea experiences.

In the first half of the last century all of the tea that wasconsumed around the world was loose-leaf. As lifestyleschanged, and convenience became more important thanflavor and tradition, consumers were won over by the

ease of preparing tea using a tea bag. Now, discerningtea drinkers are returning to loose-leaf tea, honing theirtasting skills, and acquiring knowledge of a vast array ofhigh-quality teas that they are able to prepare and drinkin their homes as well as in restaurants and cafs.Curious consumers might want to discover more aboutglobal tea cultures, such as ancient tea ceremonies, orgo online to connect with tea growers and sellers, tea

specialists, and tea bloggers to share and accumulateinformation from the world of tea.

TEA GOES MAINSTREAMAn indication that this passion for tea is no passingfad is the increasing variety and availability of excellentquality tea. Walk into any supermarket and you will finda diverse selection of loose-leaf tea, as well as the

convenient new take on the tea bagthe cleverlydesigned silk pyramid sachet filled with high-qualityloose leaves, such as jasmine pearls, Chinese greens, andSilver Needle white tips. One doesnt have to travel very

far in most cities to find a teashop that is well stockedwith tea from the far corners of the globe. Cafs thatpreviously served only coffee or generic black tea havecleared shelf space for specialty loose-leaf tea with thelatest tea gadgets and knowledgeable staff to serve it.Improved tea lists are appearing on restaurant menus,and some tea bars are offering tea cocktails and teacuisine. Unique and exotic teas are entering our everyday

consciousness and all the signs tell us that this tea trend iscontinuing to grow.

With all this recent exposure to specialty and premiumtea, a new breed of tea-lover is developing: a tea-loverthat treks to countries of origin, studies tea customs,meets growers, and brings home rare Puer and little-known green teas to share with their tea-loving friends.

JAPANESE GREENGreen tea from Japan, such as thisSencha, is famous for its delicatesweetness and marine flavor.

MIXOLOGYMore than just a mixer,

the right tea can addlayers of flavor and

complexity to a cocktail.


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Sweet iced teahas been

consumed throughoutNorth America for morethan a century.


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12 WHAT IS TEA?

WHATS NEW

IN TEA?People may have started drinking tea hundredsof years ago, but a resurgent interest in thedrink has led to a thriving new tea scene,which takes the best teas, traditions, and

rituals from around the world and makesthem part of our everyday lives.

MUCH ADO ABOUT MATCHAMatcha is trending among health-conscious teadrinkers. This green tea-leaf powder can beconsumed in a shot glass for a morning jolt ofcaffeine and antioxidants, as a creamy latt, mixed

with fruits and ready to drink from the chiller cabinet,or in baked goods such as shortbread and macarons.

TEA MIXOLOGYMixologists have found teas rich and refreshingvariety of flavors a delectable addition to their stockof ingredients for cocktails. Teatinis, martinis madeusing tea, have arrived at upscale bars, and can beeasily prepared at home, too.

DESSERT TEAJust as mixologists are experimenting with cocktails,tea blenders are innovating with dessert tea (seepp6263)taking inspiration from the dessert menuand recreating those flavors in delicious teaconcoctions made using fruit, chocolate, and spices.

FERMENTEATIONKombucha, the fizzy and fermented tea with powerfulprobiotic properties, is popping up in stores, bottled inmultiple flavors, and in bars, as a cocktail ingredient, allaround the world. Although readily available bottled, itis fun to make at home (see p174).

GOURMET TREATGracing the tables of high-end restaurants, tea is fastbecoming a popular food ingredient. Why not try tearecipes such as Masala Chai scones, green tea saladdressing, and Lapsang Souchong meat rubs.


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GOOD HEALTH IN A CUPTea has long been consumed for its health properties,but the wealth of new research on tea is highlightingmore health benefits than the original tea pioneerscould ever have imagined. Green tea, with its healthhalo, is now so popular that it is being grown in

countries that didnt traditionally produce it, such asIndia and Sri Lanka, to keep up with world demand.

TEA ON THE GOReady-to-drink bottled tea is a great grab and gooption, and is available in numerous stores, cafs,and vending machines. Available au naturel or withthe addition of fruit, gelled coconut, and otherinteresting ingredients, bottled tea is becomingmore popular than ever.

BUBBLE TEAColorful and tasty, bubble tea (see p192) has takenthe world by storm since it first appeared in Taiwanin the 1980s. Everything about it, from the oversizedstraws used to drink the tea to the chewy tapiocaboba (the bubbles at the bottom) bursting with

flavor, makes it a fun experience.

BEST SERVED CHILLEDExtracting more natural sweetness than hot tea, andwith less caffeine, cold infusion (see pp5859), orinfusing leaves using cold water, is a growing trend.There is a wide variety of equipment available, fromeasy-to-use infusers to more elaborate teaware, tohelp you make and enjoy these chilled teas.

SPECIALTY TEAS ARE

TAKING OVER MOREAND MORESHELFSPACE IN THESUPERMARKETS

WHATS NEW IN TEA? 13


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14 WHAT IS TEA?

THE PLANT THAT

CHANGED THE WORLDCountless types of tea are produced and enjoyed globally, and although theymight look and taste very different, they are all made from the leaves of theversatile evergreen plant, Camellia sinensis.

CAMELLIA SINENSISThere are two main varieties of Camellia sinensis. Thefirst, Camellia sinensisvar.sinensis,produces teas withflavors ranging from bright and fresh to rich and malty. Itis a small-leaved plant suited to a cool, misty climate,such as on the higher elevations of mountainous regionsin China, Taiwan, and Japan. This variety can grow to

TEA CULTIVATIONA typical terraced plantation

on the slopes of the CameronHighlands in Malaysia (above).Camellia sinensisvar.sinensis

(right) produces nuanced flavorsbecause of its slow growth.

a height of 20ft (6m) if left undisturbed. The second,Camellia sinensisvar. assamica,is a larger-leaved plantthat thrives in tropical regions, such as India, Sri Lanka,and Kenya. Its leaves can grow as long as 8in (20cm)and, in the wild, it can grow to a height of 50ft (15m).This variety produces teas with flavors ranging frommellow and grassy to brisk and malty.

CULTIVARS: THECHARACTER OF A PLANTOne of the characteristics of the tea plant is its abilityto adapt naturally to its ambient conditions, making itwholly suited to the region in which it is grown. Growersoften build upon distinguishing traits of their tea plantsby creating cultivars, or cultivated varieties. They dothis by selecting plants with distinct qualities, suchas special flavor attributes or an ability to enduredrought or repel insects.

As a result of human intervention, as well as naturaloccurrence, there are now more than 500 hybrids of teaplant. Some of these are bred exclusively for a specifictype of tea, such as the Da Bai Hao cultivar for Silver

Needle white tea, or Japanese Yabukita, the mostpopular cultivar in Japan.


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THE PLANT THAT CHANGED THE WORLD 15

TEA SEEDSThese are brown, round, and about12in (1cm) in diameter, sometimeswith a flat side. They have a veryhard shell and therefore take 46

weeks to germinate. With propercare, the seeds can germinate

and grow into adult plants.

Flower buds are white incolor, and develop into

seed-producing flowers.

Tender leaf budsarevalued for spring greenand white teas.

Small twigsareused for Kukicha

tea in Japan, anda type of whitetea in Malawi.

Small white flowers

will eventually formtea seeds (see below).

Seed pods hold 15 seeds.Sometimes the seeds are

pressed to make tea oil.

The underside of theleaf is covered in fine

hairs called pekoe.

This indicates a highgrade of tea.

A stem with two

leaves and a leafbudis at the rightstage of growth tobe plucked.

More mature leavesare used for making

oolong tea.

Leaves are shiny,with serrated edges.

ANATOMY OF A TEA PLANTWith up to five harvests a year, the

Camellia Sinensisis a highly productiveplant. Every part of the plant is used,from the tender spring leaf buds to themature leaves and small twigs.


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16 WHAT IS TEA?

GROWTH AND HARVESTThe adult tea plant is hardy and can withstand a wide range of weather conditions,but it is slow to grow from seed. Tea growers, therefore, take special care of theiryoung plants while they wait for the seeds to sprout and mature.

FROM SEED OR CLONEThe tea plant is grown for its foliage rather than itsflowers or fruit (seeds). The ultimate aim is to have

abundant new growth as often as possible throughoutthe growing season to ensure a healthy harvest. Thereare varying opinions on how to produce new plantssuccessfully. Artisan growers often cultivate plantsfrom seed because they believe that the adult

GROWING FROM SEEDIt takes more than one year for a flower to seed.Flowers start to bud on the tea plant in summer,opening in early fall. The seeds fall when the weatherturns colder (OctoberJanuary) and aregathered from the ground soon after. In China,they are collected in late fall or early winter.

SPROUTINGAfter germination, seeds take severalmonths to produce a stem with leaves.At this stage, the plant requires shadeand should not be overexposed to the

sun, to prevent it from drying out.

FORMING ROOTSIt is essential that the youngplant establishes its taproot

to absorb nourishment andhold it firmly in place.

Tea seed

The taprootin amature plant

can go as deepas 20ft (6m).

plant will be stronger for having fought its way throughthe seed barrier and up through the ground. More often,

however, tea is propagated from cuttings, whicheventually grow into adult plants, called clonal plants.These are ready for harvest slightly sooner than seedlings,and their characteristics dependably represent those ofthe mother plant, so are a safer bet for many growers.

Several monthstoestablish taproot

34 leavesindicate thatthe root isgrowing well.

1in(2.5cm)deep

40 daysto germinate

PLANTING THE SEEDTea seeds are soaked for 24 hours beforeplanting to encourage the thin woodyshell of the seed to split, thus speeding upgermination. Seeds that sink when soaked

are chosen for planting and those thatfloat are discarded.


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GROWTH AND HARVEST 17

PLUCKED BUD AND LEAVESHand-picked leaves should conformto industry standards: stems with

23 small leaves and tender budsare preferred for manufacture. Thisis considered a fine pluck.

PRUNINGThe mature plant stands at 34ft (11.2m) high, andthe goal is to have around 30 branches on a plant tomaintain a good shape and height for plucking. Plantsreceive their first pruning after 2 years. This is done

during the dormant season. Light pruning is done oncea year thereafter, while heavy pruning, removing allthe leaves and the secondary branches to encouragerejuvenation, takes place every 34 years.

Single leaf

Cutting, 12in(2.55cm) long

After 57 years,the plantis ready for plucking

23 yearsto growto maturity

PROPAGATION FROM CUTTINGDuring the dormant, or dry, season, a cutting of 12in(2.55cm) with only one healthy leaf is taken fromthe middle portion of the primary shoot of theplant. (This is the shoot that grows directly out ofthe main trunk of the mother plant.) The stem iscut diagonally, with a sharp knife, about 14in (5mm)

above and 1in (2.5cm) below the leaf, then plantedin a pot. Cuttings should be kept out of direct sunlight

and the leaf sprayed with water daily.After 1215 months, the cutting will have grown roots

and is ready to be transferred to a planting field. It will beanother 1215 months before it is harvested for the firsttime. Overall, the time from cutting to harvest is 23years. Plants grown from cuttings have a life span of3040 years, while those grown from seeds canproduce leaves for several hundred years. There are

wild trees in Chinas Yunnan province estimated

to be 2,000 years old.


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18 WHAT IS TEA?

TERROIRAs with wine, each tea has its own character, and even teas of the same variety differ inflavor from region to region. This is due to the variation in interdependent conditions,known as terroir, or the ecosystem, in which the tea plant is grown.

LATITUDE AND ALTITUDETea bushes perform best in subtropical zones,between latitudes 40N and 30S of the Equator,which are neither too frosty nor too dry. Sometea-producing countries, such as Kenya, sit righton the Equator, but because the tea is grown inthe highlands, the temperatures are cool enoughfor the tea plant to thrive.

8,000FT(2,450M)

SEA LEVEL

RootsThe roots hold the

plant firmly in place onan incline, and absorb

water and nutrients.from the soil.

SoilLoose, acidic soil (pH4.45.5) witha layer of organic compost is bestfor the tea plant. Heavy clay soilwill inhibit growth of the taproot.

Growing on slopesPlants grown on slopes benefit

from good drainage. They willperish if left in soggy soil.

The specific conditions in which the tea plant is

grown play a big part in influencing its development

and quality. Natural factors, such as altitude,soil, and climatic conditions, influence the

flavor and character of the leaves, as well as

the amount of vitamins, minerals, and other

compounds contained within them. While tea growers

may hope for enough constants in the local environment

to influence and control their harvest each year, nothingin nature is predetermined. Extreme weather, low rainfall,

and poor soil may affect growth and, ultimately, the

choices made for processing the leaves.

ElevationTea can be grown at elevations as lowas 400ft (125m) and as high as 8,000ft

(2,450m) above sea level. The optimalelevation is around 6, 500ft (2,000m),where temperatures are cooler and sunlightless abundant than on lower elevations.


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TERROIR 19

CLIMATEThe amount of rain, wind speeds and direction,and fluctuation in temperatures are crucialelements that can be the deciding factors

for the success of a harvest.

MistTea plants benefit from beingshrouded in mist, as it providesmoisture as well as protectionfrom the sun.

CloudsCloud cover regulatesexposure to sunlight.

TreesDeciduous trees are often

strategically plantedthroughout a tea garden

to provide shade.

Slope orientationWhen tea is grown on aslope, the incline's directiondetermines the hours of

sunlight received.

ShadowsThe shadows cast bythe trees help to regulate the

temperature of the tea plants.

Sun exposureTea plantations thrivewhen they can baskin 5 or more hours of

sunlight per day.

A TEA PLANTATIONA plantation in Kurseong, Darjeeling,India where carefully placed talldeciduous trees provide shade for

the tea plants.

RainTea plants need a minimum of 60in (1,500mm)rainfall per year. Too much rainfall is harmful asthe tea bush requires a dry period of 34 monthsper year to refresh its inner systems before thegrowing cycle begins again.


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20 WHAT IS TEA?

THE PRODUCTION

PROCESSThe journey of tea from leaf to cup begins at the teaestate, where growers carefully nurture the leaf andprepare it for commercial production.

GARDENSCAPESSome gardens formstunning undulatinglandscapes, whileothers are instraight rows.

TYPES OF TEA ESTATESTea is grown on farms, or estates, that vary hugely insize, and range from small gardens, which are under25 acres (10 hectares), to plantations spread overthousands of acres employing a large number of workers.While the aim remains the same regardless of the sizeof the tea estate, the difference lies in the intensity and

scope of production. All estates tailor their tea to suitthe taste of the market they cater to, and this influencesthe way the tea is grown and produced. Larger estatessell their yield by the ton, at auction and throughbrokers, transporting it to its destination by containerships, while smaller estates often sell directly toimporters, wholesalers, and retailers.

INDUSTRIAL TEA ESTATESAs these estates grow tea mainly for commercialpurposes, the focus is on quick and cheap productionwith few deviations from the tried and tested cultivars.Hence, large industrial tea estates use chemical fertilizersand pesticides to ensure a good harvest, and factorymachinery to hasten the processing.

SINGLE ORIGIN ESTATESSome large tea gardens take immense pride in theirheritage. They are known for producing fine loose-leafteas that are not blended with leaves from other farms.Known as single estate teas or single origin teas, theseteas are valued for their unique flavor characteristics,which are particular to the terroir of the estate onwhich they are grown. As such, they dont strive tobe consistent in flavor year on year in the sameway as industrial tea estates.

ONE OF A KINDTeas from single origin estates aresought after for their signature style.

ARTISAN GARDENSAnother category of tea estate is the artisan garden,which is smaller than a single origin estate, usuallyless than 25 acres (10 hectares). The success of anartisan garden lies in the growers understanding ofthe tea plants natural responses to its habitat, andtheir expertise in manipulating its plucked leaves.From tending the plant to sharing a cup with a buyer,the artisan tea maker has a hands-on approachthroughout the entire process.

SINGLEORIGIN


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THE PRODUCTION PROCESS 21

GRANULAR TEACTC tea is almost always

destined for the tea bag

because its broken intovery small dustlike pieces,

known as fannings, that releasetheir flavor very quickly.

UNBROKEN LEAF

Whole, unbroken leaves are theaim of orthodox tea production.Dry leaves are fragile and maybreak during the last stages.

Whole leavesare fed intothe hopper.

The leavesarecrushed, torn, andcurled by large bladesinside the machine.

The processedleavescomeout of the otherend, readyfor oxidation.

ROTORVANE MACHINECTC factories usespecialized machines,such as the rotorvane,to process the leaves.

CTC METHODInvented in the 1930s, thismethod involves the useof industrial machinery toprocess tea leaves. Large, thickleaves of a lower grade are blade-sliced, crushed, and

bruised (to speed up oxidation), then machine-rolled intotiny grains of equal size before they undergo oxidation.This method is used exclusively in the production ofblack tea, and mostly for commodity tea (grown inindustrial gardens for commercial uses). The CTC methodis particularly prevalent in Sri Lanka, Kenya, and parts ofIndia, but not in China.

METHODS OF TEA PRODUCTIONWhen you make a cup of tea you will notice that some leaves resemble

little grains of soil, while others look like they were just plucked from thetea plant. This difference is largely determined by the method of productionused on the leaf. There are two methods for producing tea in a factory: theCTC (crush, tear, curl) method and the orthodox method.

ORTHODOX METHODOrthodox-style tea is wholly or partially handmade, and aims topreserve as much of the whole leaf as possible. It is the standardmethod of production for all teas, except commerical black tea, whichis usually produced using the CTC method. The whole leaf is regardedas superior in quality; leaves that break are ranked using the British

grading system (see p90) in India, Sri Lanka, and Kenya, andpriced accordingly. More tea producers are adopting this method

due to the increasing demand for this type of tea.There is an inverse relationship between quality

and quantity, and therefore price. Although the quantityproduced may be lower, higher prices

per gram make up the difference.


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22 WHAT IS TEA?

PLANTATION TO TEAPOTProducing tea is much more than just plucking leaves and drying them. The processinvolves a series of steps, each of them equally important, which take the leavesfrom the first plucking stage to the finished product.

Every country and region has a distinct way of producingtea. Handmade teas vary the most, from village to villageand from maker to maker. However, there are universally

accepted production processes that have been used for

centuries. During the height of tea production in China,India, Japan, and Korea, tea producers work around theclock. There is a very short window for plucking, and

once separated from the plant, the leaf starts to degrade.

PLUCKINGA tea plant is plucked over severalgrowing periodsin early spring(notably in Darjeeling), when the

first flush of young buds appear,again in early summer and, insome areas, in fall. In equatorialregions, such as Kenya, tea isplucked year-round. On slopingterrain, tea is still hand-pluckeda laborious task performed mostlyby women.

WITHERINGFresh tea leaves contain 75percent moisture, which must beremoved from the leaves to make

them pliable for further processing.Leaves are spread out, either inthe sun (white tea, Puer), or ontrays in a controlled, well-ventilatedfactory environment where thetemperature is kept at 6875F(20-24C). The average wither is 20hours, but varies from tea to tea.

FIXINGThis stage applies only to green and yellow tea, whichdo not go through an intentional factory withering,rather a short air drying to remove moisture. Theleaves are fixed quickly under high heat to destroyenzymes and prevent oxidation. Fixing, also known askill green, is done by pan-firing. This preserves thearomas and volatile oils in the leaves.

ROLLINGNow that some of the moisturehas left the leaf, the tea juicesare more condensed and the

leaf is ready to be shaped intorolled, twisted, or curled leaves.This stage breaks down the cellwalls in the leaf and sets the leafup for optimum oxidation foroolong and black teas, and bringsthe aromatics to the surface forgreen and yellow teas.

TEA PRODUCTION PROCESSNot all tea types go through the same stages ofproduction. Some have lots of steps, such as blackand oolong teas, while others, such as yellow tea, have

minimal production. Use the key opposite to find a particulartea type and follow left to right, starting with plucking andmoving through the various steps to completion.


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PLANTATION TO TEAPOT 23

FIRST FLUSHA tea plucker picking tender

new buds in early spring, whennutrients flush into the tips of

the plant after a dormant winter.

FIRING/DRYINGOriginally done in a basket orwok over charcoal, most tealeaves are now dried in tumble

dryers. Some teas, such asLapsang Souchong black tea andLong jing (Dragon Well) green tea,still use a traditional method as asignature of their style and favor.The finished leaf contains only3 percent moisture.

OXIDATIONDuring oxidation, enzymes in theleaf are transformed into theaflavins(informing taste) and thearubigins

(informing color). This is achieved byspreading the leaves on tablesin a humid environment. Theprocess takes several hours, lastinguntil the tea master decides thatoxidation has concluded (for blacktea), or that the desired level hasbeen reached (for oolong).

SORTINGOnce processed, leaves are eitherhand-sorted or machine-sorted.Some machines have infrared

cameras that can detect varioussizes of leaf in order to sort theminto grades and separate outunwanted elements, such asstems. A well-produced, orthodoxtea will have fewer small pieces ofleaf and more whole leaves, whichare considered a higher grade.

HEAPINGAfter fixing, yellow tea goes through a step known asheaping, or men huang. The leaves are laid out in pilesfor a prolonged resting wrapped in damp cloth. The mixtureof heat and humidity gives the leaves a yellow cast.

KEYWHITE TEA

BLACK AND OOLONG TEA

PUER

GREEN TEA

YELLOW TEA

FERMENTATIONAfter rolling, Puer tea is steamed and formed

into cakes ready for fermentation. There are twotypes of Puer: sheng (raw) and shou (ripe). ShengPuer is left to ferment naturally, culturingmicroorganisms slowly over many years, whileshou Puer is fermented, or aged, over severalmonths in humidity-controlled storage facilities.


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24 WHAT IS TEA?

ONE PLANT, MANY TEASMany types of tea are produced worldwide, all of which come from the same plantspecies. Each tea is produced differently and has unique features that affect flavorand strength. Here, they are grouped under the six main types. From sweet andfragrant to chocolatey and nutty, there is a spectrum of flavors to enjoy.

GREEN TEAGreen tea is unoxidized and most closelyresembles the original plucked leafa smallspringtime leaf bud that contains abundantnutrients and oils sent up from the rootsafter a period of winter dormancy. Greentea is admired for its freshness andfleeting nature (it has a short shelf lifeof 68 months). The most prized green

teas in China are referred to as pre-QingMing, or before the spring festival, whichfalls in early April. Green tea comes indifferent shapesflat, needlelike, curledlike a snail, rolled into balls, or in fine twists.

GyokuroJapan

Anji Bai ChaZhejiang province, China

Zhu Ye QingSichuan province, China

MatchaJapan

SenchaJapan

Long JingZhejiang province, China


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ONE PLANT, MANY TEAS 25

WHITE TEAProduced mostly in Chinas Fujian province, white tea

is the least processed of all teas. However, it takes along time to produce (23 days), and has a slight naturaloxidation from its long withering process (about 2 days),after which it is baked at a low heat, sorted, and bakedagain. There are several types of white tea. Some aremade from leaves and buds so tender they still have afine white fuzz, or pekoe, on them; others use largerleaves and are a little more oxidized. White tea isconsidered one of the healthiest teas, as it contains

antioxidants, such as catechins and polyphenols,concentrated in the bud that helpstrengthen the immunesystem.

OOLONG TEAOolong is also produced in Chinas Fujianprovince, especially in the Wuyi Mountains,and on Taiwans mountainsides. This semi-oxidized tea uses mature leaves that undergo arigorous production process. They are witheredfor a few hours, then rattled or shaken to

bruise the leaves and destroy the cell walls to aidflavor release during oxidation. The oxidationprocess can go on for hours, until the tea masterdecides that the tea has reached the correct levelof oxidation. The leaves are then fired to prevent

further oxidation, rolled, and then fired again,or roasted. Lightly oxidized oolongs are

shaped into small, shiny, dark-greenpellets, while the more heavily

oxidized oolongs becomelong, dark, twisted leaves.

Bai Hao Yin ZhenFujian province, China

Shou MeiFujian province, China

Bai Mu DanFujian province, China

Da Hong PaoFujian province, China

Tie Guan Yin

Fujian province, China


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26 WHAT IS TEA?

BLACK TEAA fully oxidized tea, black tea is produced in Kenya

and many Asian countries, including Sri Lanka,China, and India. Much of the worlds black teais grown for the tea bag industry, and it isoften mixed with other types of tea to makeblends, such as breakfast and afternoon, whichare enhanced by the addition of milk and/orsugar. The Chinese refer to black teas as redteas because of the color of the liquid. Blackteas are brisk, malty, full-bodied,

and bracing because of therich flavors thatdevelop during theoxidation process.

DarjeelingFirst FlushWest Bengal, India

AssamAssam, India

CeylonSri Lanka

DarjeelingSecond FlushWest Bengal, India


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ONE PLANT, MANY TEAS 27

YELLOW TEAYellow tea is produced in only a few areas of China,

such as the Hunan and Sichuan provinces. As aresult, very little is produced or exported, makingit fairly rare. As in the case of green tea, the bestgrades of yellow tea are produced from tea leavesharvested early in spring. Yellow tea is characterizedby its fresh and delicate flavor, and gets its namefrom the leafs slightly yellow cast, which is causedby the yellowing process it undergoes (see p23).

PUER TEAOften referred to as a post-fermented tea, Puer is named after

the town in which it is produced in Chinas Yunnan province.The tea contains microorganisms with probiotic properties, whichaid digestion and promote a healthy immune system, so is commonly

consumed to aid weight loss. After the leaves are processed, they aresteamed and pressed into cakes and aged for several years beforethey are sold; the tea is also available as loose leaves.

There are two kinds of Puer: Sheng (raw), which is allowedto develop and age naturally, and Shou (ripe), which undergoesan accelerated fermentation process. Similar teas are produced

in other provinces of China and are referred to as dark teaor hei cha. Post-fermented aged tea, particularly Puer,is highly sought-after by connoisseurs who store and ageit for decades, as the flavors (which vary from earthy,musty, and leathery, to chocolatey or woody) becomemore complex over time.

Sheng Puer Tuo Cha cakeYunnan province, China

Liu An Dark TeaAnhui province,

China

Mo Gan

Huang YaZhejiang province,China

Jun Shan Yin ZhenDong Ting Lake,Hunan province, China

Meng Ding Huang YaSichuan province, China


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28 WHAT IS TEA?

MATCHABrilliantly colored and packed with antioxidants, Matcha is growing in popularityworldwide. This green tea, which has been around for over 1,000 years, is being toutedas the espresso of the tea world for its strong, bold flavors and ability to perk you up.

THE WONDER DRINKMatcha powder is a throwback to the Tang dynasty

of China, when powdered tea was the norm. Itwas introduced to Japan by Buddhist monks whovisited China and brought it back with them.It eventually became an integral part of theJapanese tea culture, being used in theChanoyu tea ceremony. The best quality teaplants, destined to become Matcha are grownin the Uji region of Japan.

Matchas distinctive electric green color isa result of artificial shading for several weeks justbefore harvest, which stimulates the productionof chlorophyll. The leaves are then plucked,steamed, and dried, and the stems and veins areremoved. These leaves, known as tencha, arethen placed in a Matcha grinder and milled toa fine powder between the grinders two graniteplates. It can take up to one hour to grind 1oz

(30g) of Matcha.Matcha has high caffeine levels and is packed

with greater health-giving properties than regulargreen teas, as the whole leaf is consumed. Itcontains a number of antioxidants, including EGCg,which is known for its cancer-fighting properties,and L-theanine, which helps to calm the mindand improve memory and concentration.

There are two ceremonial grades of Matchaavailable: Usucha (thin) and Koicha (thick), as wellas a lower grade, known as confectioners grade.Usucha is the most widely available grade and isbest used for everyday consumption. Koicha ismostly reserved for use in the formal Chanoyuceremony. Confectioners grade Matcha is thelowest quality grade and is much cheaper to buy,making it ideal for culinary use in macarons, cake,and ice cream.

MATCHAS GREEN GOODNESSAs the whole leaf is consumed, thenutritional benefits of Matcha are

far higher than that of other teas.Matcha helps to detox the body,improves the immune system,and boosts energy and metabolism.

Chawan

Scoop


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MATCHA 29

MATCHA MACARONSMatcha-infused macarons

make a sweet snack with ahint of herbaceous goodness.

MATCHA LATTCreamy and frothy, the lattis a popular way to consumeMatcha, as the milk (either

dairy or plant) softens andsmooths the flavor. Seethe delicious recipe forWhite Chocolate MatchaLatt on page 159.

IN MEDIEVALJAPAN, SAMURAIWARRIORS DRANKMATCHA TO PREPARE

FOR BATTLE

MATCHA CAKEAdd Matcha powder to the dryingredients when making yourcake or icing. Just 23 tablespoons

will be enough to impart a brightgreen color, but be careful notto add too much as the flavor maybecome bitter.

Matcha powder

Chasen

HOW TOPREPAREWhisk up this rich and foamytea for a quick hit of energy.

YOU WILL NEED

Ingredients121 tsp Usucha grade Matcha

powder

1223cup water heatedto 170F (75C)

1 Place the Matcha powder ina chawan, or cereal bowl, andadd a small amount of the hotwater. Whisk the mixture tomake a thick paste.

2 Add the remaining water tothe mixture and whisk brisklyusing a W or N stroke, until

the tea is smooth and frothy.


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30 WHAT IS TEA?

BLOOMING TEABlooming teas, or flower teas as they are also known,consist of fresh flowers encased in white tea leaves. Whensteeped, the bloom unfurls to reveal the flowers within.

Originating in the Fujian province ofChina, blooming teas are made bynimble-fingered women, who can

make up to 400 blooms per day.With twists and turns of leaves,flowers, and thread, they producecompact balls of tea, about /in(2cm) in diameter.

White Silver Needle buds, whichhave been processed as green tea,are used for this process, as the

young leaves are pliable, easy towork with, and look good whileinfusing. First, the leaves are carefullytied together at the base. Then, driedflowers, such as osmanthus, jasmine,chrysanthemum, lily, or marigold, arethreaded together and bound withthe tea leaves. The order in whichthe flowers are arranged will

determine the style of the bloom.Some styles symbolize happiness,

prosperity, or love, while othersportray concepts, such as a flowerblooming in spring. The blooms are

then bound together at the top andwrapped in cloth to hold them untilthey are heated, at a very high

temperature, to secure their shape.When selecting blooming tea,

look for leaves that are whole, andflower colors that are not too pale.Blooming teas look best when theyare prepared in a glass teapot, butyou can also use a preheatedtall tumbler or glass pitcher. Place

the bloom in a teapot. Heat thewater to 170175F (7580C) andpour slowly over the bloom, fillingtwo-thirds of the teapot. After12 minutes, the bloom will beginto open and reveal the flowers andcolors within.

As the white buds have beenprocessed in the same way as green

tea, you can expect several infusionsfrom each bloom. Once you haveconsumed the tea, you can continueto display the flower for several daysin a jug of fresh, cold water.

AN EXPERIENCEDCRAFTSPERSON CANTIE MORE THAN400

BLOOMS A DAY


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32 WHAT IS TEA?


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32 WHAT IS TEA?

HEALTH BENEFITS

OF TEATea is packed with antioxidants and chemicals, such as polyphenols, L-theanine,and catechins that help to fortify the immune system. Of all teas, green andwhite are the most beneficial because they are made from young leaves fullof these chemicals, and are the least processed.

Tea was first used as a medicinal beverage in Chinato regulate internal body temperature and stimulate themind. When it reached Europe in the 17th century, itwas sold in apothecary shops as a tonic and digestive.It was only in the first part of the 18th century that itwas embraced as a social beverage. Tea has sincedeveloped into an everyday drink valued for itshealth-improving properties.

Many scientists have studied the health-givingqualities of tea, but there is still a great deal to discover.While all teas produced from the Camelia sinensisplantare good for health, many studies have looked at theeffects of green tea extracts in particular, and mostrecommend drinking at least three cups of tea per dayto gain the health benefits.

TEA AND YOUR BODYWhile drinking tea will contribute to overall healthand well-being, it is becoming evident that the manyunique compounds in tea target specific areas of thebody, providing protection from stress and disease,and strengthening the bones and the immunesystem. From oral health to digestive health, teais now valued as much for its beneficial attributesas for its delicious flavors.

SKIN DEEPThe detoxifying effects of the

antioxidants found in tea can help toregenerate and repair cells and protect

the skin from harmful free radicals(damaged molecules). Despite the

caffeine, tea is hydrating sinceit is mostly water.

DENTAL HEALTHThe antimicrobial qualities of tea

help to prevent dental cavities andbad breath caused by bacteria, while

the fluoride in tea strengthens theteeth. More mature leaves, suchas those harvested for oolongs,

contain higher levels of fluoride.

HEALTH BENEFITS OF TEA 33


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HEALTH BENEFITS OF TEA 33

ITS ALL IN YOUR HEADPolyphenols, found in all typesof tea, are believed to reduce

the risk of degenerative diseases,because they protect the sectionsof the brain responsible forlearning and memory.

HEART TO HEARTThe polyphenols in tea are a rich sourceof flavonoid antioxidants and neutralizethe toxic and mutating effects of freeradicals, helping to prevent cancer.Flavonoids, found in tea, help protectthe heart from cardiovascular disease.Drinking green tea may alsosignificantly reduce the risk of highblood pressure.

EASY TOSTOMACHTea, oolong in particular,has long been used as apost-meal digestive drink.Puer is particularly good fordigestion because of itsprobiotic properties, and

has been touted as a fat-burning tool. Green tea canhelp to stimulate metabolismand burn calories.

STRESS TESTTea is a powerful stress buster.Green tea, in particular, containsa unique amino acid, L-theanine,

which increases Alpha waves inthe brain, relaxes the mind,and, combined with caffeine,promotes alertness.

FEEL IT IN YOUR BONESTea drinkers are believed tohave higher bone density thannon-tea drinkers due to thehigh levels of fluoride in tea.

CAFFEINETea contains caffeine, a bitter compound that stimulatesthe nervous system. It is one of the various compoundssent from the roots of the plant to protect and nourish thebuds as they grow, and is known to repel insect attack.

There are similar amounts of caffeine in tea per dryleaf weight to coffee. However, the polyphenols (tannins)in tea regulate and slow the release of caffeine, so thatthe feeling of alertness it gives lasts much longer.Caffeine levels in tea depend on the type of tea used,the water temperature, the steeping time, and the time

of year the tea leaves are picked.

GREEN AND WHITETEAS CONTAIN

HIGHER LEVELS OFANTIOXIDANTS THANBLACK AND OOLONG


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THE PERFECT

INFUSION

36 THE PERFECT INFUSION


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LOOSE-LEAF OR

TEA BAG TEA?Since the invention of the tea bag, people have debated its merits over loose-leaf tea.While it is hard to contest the convenience of tea bags, when it comes to flavor, thescales tip sharply in favor of loose-leaf tea.

LOOSE LEAFPreparing loose-leaf tea may require a littlemore effort than a tea bag, but it is still verysimple, and makes a world of difference tothe quality of your cuppa.

CONVENIENCESpecial equipment, such as the mesh infuser,makes preparing and cleaning up loose-leaftea quick and easy.

FRESHNESS AND QUALITYWhole leaves have less exposed surfacearea than tea bag fannings or CTC leaf (seeopposite), so will stay fresher for longer, ifstored correctly.

FLAVORLoose leaf tea is made up of whole leaves, or largepieces of leaf, still containing aromatic oils, whichmake a complex, full-flavored cup.

VALUEA common misconception is that loose-leaf tea isexpensive. Making a cup of tea requires only smallamounts of loose leaf. It is also possible to havemultiple infusions of some teas, such as oolong,lowering the price per cup.

ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLINESSLoose leaves are biodegradable, and break downin the soil quickly, so are good for composting.

INFUSIONLoose leaves release their flavor slowly into the water.This means their strength isnt spent all at once, savingsome character for further infusions.

Tea leavesreleasemore aroma and flavorwhen they have ample

space to infuse.

You will be ableto pickout certain flavors ofthe tea from its aroma.

The infuser containsthe leaves and makescleaning easier.

LOOSE LEAF OR TEA BAG TEA? 37


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LOOSE-LEAF OR TEA BAG TEA? 37

TEA BAGThe tea bag was an accidental invention. In 1908, Thomas Sullivan,a tea merchant from New York City, sent his clients samples oftea in small silk drawstring bags. He expected them to remove theleaves from the bag before infusing them, but they brewed the teadirectly, in the bags, and were so pleased with the results that theyasked for more to be sent similarly packaged.

CONVENIENCEThe tea bag is convenient to use becasue it comesin premeasured packs, and eliminates the needfor a strainer, teapot, or infuser.

FRESHNESS AND QUALITYCommercial tea bags are filled with the smallest piecesof the lowest grade commodity black tea. This is one ofthe reasons why they infuse so quickly, but also whythey become stale, regardless of how they are stored,since their surface area is exposed.

FLAVORThe tea used in tea bags loses many of its essential oils

and much of its aroma during processing. As such, teabags have less complexity of flavor than loose-leaf tea.They also release more tannins when infused, which canresult in a bitter and astringent drink.

VALUEA large box of tea bags is relatively inexpensive, butthe price per cup is similar to that of loose leaf,especially when you consider that loose-leaf tea canbe used for multiple infusions and tea bags only once.

Tea bags also have a shorter shelf life.

ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLINESSAlthough some types of tea bag are fully biodegradable,the majority contain small amounts of plastic(polypropylene) that will remain in a compost pilefor years. Look for bags that are polypropylene-free.

INFUSIONTea bags are easy to infuse, even without a teapot,

but restrict the movement of tea leaves that isrequired to make a really good cup of tea.

Tea bags are available in round or squaresachets (above), which leave little room forthe leaves to infuse. The pyramid tea bag(left) is shaped to enable better infusion asthe water infiltrates it.

TEA BAG FANNINGS

Commercial black tea bagscontain fannings, or piecesof tea leaves consideredunsuitable to be sold loose.

The pyramid tea bag

has more infusing spacethan square or roundtea bags.



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HOW TO STORE TEALoose-leaf tea should be stored properly as it is vulnerable to light, air,and moisture. Teas spongelike dry leaves soak up any flavors and aromasthey come into contact with, so keep them airtight, cool, and dry.

SHELF LIFEEven though the tea leaf feels very dry, it contains 3 percent moistureand volatile oils, which are vital to its flavor. These oils will evaporate if

the leaves are not stored properly. Green tea has the shortest shelf lifeat 68 months, while oolong lasts 12 years. Black tea has the longestshelf life of over 2 years, but if it is flavored or has added spices or fruits,it may degrade more quickly. Follow these guidelines to ensure that yourtea stays fresh a little longer.

DO

BUY THISYEARS HARVEST

Always start with freshtea. If the purchase is

this years harvest, it hasa better chance of lasting

the full shelf life.

KEEP IT COOLStore in a cool, dry area,

ideally a low cupboard,but not in the fridge. It is

important to store theleaves away from spicesand any source of heat.

KEEP ITAIRTIGHT

Store in an opaque teacaddy made of tin, ceramics,

or stainless steel. Makingsure the container is airtight

will prevent any odorsfrom permeatingthe leaves.

CHOOSE FANCYSTORAGE

Celebrate your tea bystoring it in a special

container or tea caddy. Ifusing an antique, check the

lining to make sure it isnot made of lead.

BUY IN SMALLQUANTITIES

Large amounts of tea will probablybe sitting in the cupboard for a long

time. Take advantage of sample sizesor taster packs as this is the best

way to try a new tea without havingto dedicate space and storage

containers for something youmay not like.

SEAL IT UPIf storing the leaves

in a bag, make sure itcan be tightly sealed

after each use.

HOW TO STORE TEA 39


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HOW TO STORE TEA 39

STOREWITH OTHER

TEASDifferent styles or

flavors should not bestored together in one

container as theywill leach intoone another.

STORE ABOVE THEOVEN OR STOVE

The heat rising from theoven will weaken the

flavors of the tea.

KEEP WITHSPICES

Storing tea with spices couldspell disaster for your tea.Tea leaves are porous and

will suck in the otheraromas floating around

the pantry.

STORE IN THEFRIDGE

The tea leaves willabsorb moisture

through the processof condensation.

EXPOSE TO LIGHTAvoid storing in

a see-through container,as light will degrade theleaves more quickly and

lighten their color.

STORE IN UNLINEDWOODEN CONTAINERS

Always line a wooden containerbefore storing, unless the tea is

first put in an air-tight plasticbag. Loose-fitting lids willallow moisture into the teacausing it to become stale

or even moldy.

GO OVERBOARDCurb your enthusiasm

to try every new tea. Yourcupboard will be brimmingover with tea that you may

not get around to tryingfor several years.

BUY OLD TEAAlways find out how

old the tea is when you

buy it, and useit accordingto its shelf life.

IF STORED PROPERLY, BLACK

TEA WILL KEEP WELLFORTWO YEARS OR MORE

DONT



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CUPPING LIKE

A PROFESSIONALProfessional tea tasters practice tea tasting, known as cupping, to evaluatethe specific qualities of a tea. By training your sense of smell and taste, youwill begin to identify and appreciate the complex flavors of different teas.

Considered masters of their craft, professional tea tastersand blenders cup hundreds of teas every day. Havingdeveloped their senses of smell and taste over years ofexperience, they know which characteristics to look forand which to reject. This process of evaluating tea todetermine the best features and imperfections of theleaves is called cupping. Standard procedures are used

for every cup: 1 tsp of leaves is infused in 4 12fl oz (125ml)boiling water for 5 minutes, no matter what the type of tea.While non-professionals may find it unpleasantly bitter, thishelps the tasters to select leaves that will best match theprofile of their tea blend and determine a new formula ofblends for each harvest. Their goal is to achieve consistencyin a blend from an inconsistent tea harvest.

TASTING SETA professional tasting set consists of atasting bowl and a small lidded cup witha handle and groove on the rim to strain outthe leaves. Dry leaves are placed in the cup,and boiling water is poured over them. The

lid is placed on the cup, and the tea isallowed to steep for 5 minutes. Then the cup,with the lid still on, is tipped sideways intothe tasting bowl to let the tea flow into it.The used leaves are removed from the cupand placed on the inverted lid.

PROFESSIONAL TEA TASTERS

ALL FIVE SENSESARE INVOLVEDTHROUGHOUT

EVERY STAGEOF TASTING

CUPPING LIKE A PROFESSIONAL 41


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CUPPING LIKE A PROFESSIONAL 41

TASTING AT HOMEProfessional tasting is not done for enjoyment, but you can have fun exploring theflavors and characteristics of different teas in your own home. With an open mind,a tasting can allow you to discover new teas.

YOU WILL NEED1 tsp tea leaves per person,

such as green, oolong, andblack, or a flight of 3

types of tea, for example,Darjeeling

tea pot, or tea cup with a lidor small saucer to cover

almonds or pumpkin seeds,to neutralize your palatebetween tastings

Do notwear fragrance

when tasting tea, asit will interfere with

your sense of smell

when trying toisolate aromas.

1Examine the dry leaf and noteits color, shape, size, andfragrance. Place 1 tsp tea leaves foreach person into your tea pot or cup.Add 34cup water per tsp tea leaf, at

the appropriate temperature, coverwith the lid or small saucer, andleave to steep. Refer to pages 4247for guidance on the infusion timefor each type of tea.

2Remove the lid and put your

ear to the leaves. Noticethe slight popping sound of theleaves unfurling.

3The aroma should begin towaft as the water touches theleaves. To get a sense of how thetea will taste, lift the lid and hold

it to your nose once the infusion isready. Volatile oils will have startedto evaporate from the infusion.

4Strain the tea into tasting cups.Then examine the wet leavescarefully, and take in the aroma.

5Notice the color of the tea.Inhale, then take a quick slurpto draw the flavors to all thetaste receptors around the tongue.Notice how the tea feels; this isthe mouthfeel of the tea. Somekey flavors are shown on the flavorwheel (see pp5051) to help youdescribe the tea.



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GREEN TEAAt its best, green tea will bring a freshness reminiscentof open meadows or sea air. Start with a leaf less thanone year old, and pay attention to water temperature:too much heat will kill the gentle amino acids thatsweeten the tea, while water that is too cool will preventthe flavor from developing fully.

Steeping time is very important for green teas. As anoversteeped tea can be astringent and bitter, it is bestto start with a short steep, taste it, and increase thesteeping time by 30 seconds, until it suits your palate.

WET LEAVESDuring infusion,the tea unravelsto reveal budsand leaves.

DRY LEAVESGreen tea leaves may

be light or dark green,

and come in manyshapes and sizes, fromthin, twisted, and dusty

as in this example, toflat, shiny, and bud-like.

LIQUOR

The infused and strained tea, alsoknown as liquor, is pale green, witha hint of yellow. The brew is freshand bright, with soft, fruity flavors.

PREPARATION GUIDELINESTea shown here: Bi Luo Chun (Green SnailSpringtime), from Dong Ting mountain,Jiangsu province, China

Measure:1 tbsp for 34cup water

Water temperature:170F (75C) for Chinese

teas; 150F (65C) for Japanese teas. Usespring water, if possible.

Infusion: Test with a short steep, andincrease steeping time by 30 seconds foreach infusion. Can be used for 34 infusions.

GETTING THE MOST

FROM YOUR TEAEach type of tea has a distinct character, and displays a flavor, color, andaroma that is decidedly its own. The following guidelines will help youexperience the full flavor potential of the teas, but as enjoyment isparamount, feel free to adapt the guidelines to your taste.

GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR TEA 43


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WHITE TEAConsidered the most nuanced and subtle of teas,white tea contains a number of healthy compoundsincluding polyphenols. It is an early tea, picked justas the first buds appear, and therefore given highstatus in the Chinese tea world. It can be a challengeto appreciate this subtler tea with layered flavors,especially for those who prefer rich black teas.

There is only a handful of styles of white tea: BaiHao Yin Zhen (Silver Needles) is the highest quality,and is divided into even more refined groups, withpricing reflecting the quality. Bai Mu Dan (White Peony),a more affordable style, contains silver buds as wellas large leaves.

LIQUORLight golden in color, the infusionhas a sweet aroma, with flavors ofpine, corn, and burnt sugar.

WET LEAVESWhen infused, the tea displaysvelvety buds, large, green,multi-shaded leaves, and twigs.

DRY LEAVESWhite tea leaves have silverbuds with larger, brittle,dark green or brown leaves.PREPARATION GUIDELINES

Tea shown here:Bai Mu Dan (White Peony),from Fuding, Fujian province, China

Measure:2 tbsp for 34cup water

Water temperature:185F (85C).Use spring water, if possible.

Infusion: Steep for 2 minutes, and increasesteep time by 30 seconds for each infusion.

Can be used for 23 infusions.



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OOLONG TEAThere is a wide range of oolongs available, each withdifferent oxidation levels, aromas, and flavors. A greenoolong, such as Ali Shan from Taiwan, may have a 35percent oxidation level and a floral aroma, while a WuyiRock could have an 80 percent oxidation level and rich,roasted, earthy notes.

Oolongs are among the most difficult teas to produce,as their quality depends on the skill of their producer.Although this semi-oxidized tea literally takes abeating during processing, oolong is very forgiving,

and can be used for multiple infusions, presentingnew flavors each time.

PREPARATION GUIDELINESTea shown here: Ali Shan oolong, fromAli mountain, Nantou, Taiwan

Measure:2 tsp for 34cup water.

Water temperature:185F (85C) forlightly oxidized oolongs; 200F (95C)for heavily oxidized oolongs.

Infusion:Warm the steeping vessel first,and rinse the leaves with hot water before

steeping for 12 minutes. Increase steepingtime by 1 minute for each subsequentinfusion. May be used for up to 10 infusions.

DRY LEAVESThe medium to dark jade

green leaves of thislightly oxidized oolongare rolled into tightballs, some retainingtheir stems.

LIQUORThe bright yellow liquor is sweet and fragrant,and has slight citrus and floral notes. Eachsubsequent infusion reveals new flavors.

WET LEAVESWith each infusion, the leaves unfurlto reveal large, thick, shiny leaves withredness around the edges (indicatingwhere the oxidation occurred).



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BLACK TEABlack tea is the most well-known tea in the westernworld. Familiarity with black tea usually begins withtea-bag tea and famous blends, such as EnglishBreakfast. This familiarity might lead us to expect the

same character from all black teas, but there are manyvarieties with complex flavors and characteristics.Black tea is fully oxidized, its polyphenols having

converted to thearubigins (color) and theaflavonoids(flavor). Heftier varieties, such as Assam, can becomplemented with milk and/or sugar, but it is betterto taste a delicate tea, such as a first flush Darjeeling,in its natural state, before deciding to add anything. Historically, most premium black tea is produced

in India or Sri Lanka, but owing to its growing popularityamong the Chinese, black tea production is set toincrease in that region.

PREPARATION GUIDELINESTea shown here:First flush Darjeeling,from Darjeeling, India

Measure:2 tsp for 34cup water

Water Temperature:210F (100C)

Infusion:Steep for 2 minutes. Somewhole-leaf black teas, such as Darjeeing orChinese black teas, may be infused a secondtime. For these, add 12 minutesto the infusion time.

DRY LEAVESSome Darjeeling dry

leaves have a slightgreen color, and maybe whole or broken.

WET LEAVESWhile infused Darjeeling leavesappear brown and green, the wetleaves of other black teas maybe mahogany, walnut, or evengolden in color.

LIQUORThis golden liquor of Darjeeling tastes

of apple and spice, and has an aromareminiscent of muscatel grapes.



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PUER TEAPuer, or dark tea, is the only tea that containsprobiotics, or good microbes. It can beaged for many years, and increases invalue accordingly.

This tea is most commonly available incake or brick form, but is also available asloose leaves, sometimes aged in bamboo. Ifyoure using pressed Puer, try not to break theleaves when prying them from the cake, asthis will damage them, making the tea bitter.

Look for production dates on the wrapper.Puer continues to ripen and age over time,so can be kept for many years and tasted eachyear to experience the developing flavors.

PREPARATION GUIDELINESTea shown here:Shou Puer cake, 2010, fromYongde County, Yunnan province, China

Measure:1 tsp for 34cup water

Water temperature: 200F (95C)

Infusion:Rinse with hot water first, to softenthe leaves for steeping, then steep for 2minutes. Increase steeping time for 1 minutefor each infusion. Can be used for 34 infusions.

WET LEAVESAfter steeping, the wholeleaves may vary fromgreen to brown to black.

LIQUORThis rich, opaque dark brownor purple brew tastes of leather,and dark, dried cherries.

DRY LEAVESPuer in cake form has

long, medium to darkbrown and, sometimes,green leaves pressedinto shape.



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YELLOW TEARare, but well worth seeking out, yellow teais made from the youngest tea buds. It is grownonly in China and there are just a few types ofyellow tea available, such as Meng Ding HuangYa (Meng Ding Mountain Yellow Sprout) fromSichuan province and Jun Shan Yin Zhen ( JunMountain Silver Needle) from Hunan province.Yellow tea is rich in amino acids, polyphenols,

polysaccharides, and vitamins that are beneficialfor the spleen and stomach and aid digestionand weight loss.

PREPARATION GUIDELINESTea shown here:Jun Shan Yin Zhen, fromHunan province, China

Measure:112tsp for 34cup water

Water temperature:175F (80C). Use springwater, if possible.

Infusion:Steep for 12 minutes. Increasethe steeping time by an additional minute

for each infusion. Can be infused 23 times.

LIQUORThe yellow brew has an initialvegetal flavor, followed bya sweet finish.

WET LEAVESWhen infused, theleaves resembleminiature snow peas,with streaks of yellow.

DRY LEAVESYellow tea has small, light

green buds, with somegolden yellow touches,

and fine white pekoe.



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THE SCIENCE

OF FLAVORTo identify the flavor of the tea you are drinking,the brain calls on taste stimuli from receptors onthe tongue, olfactory stimuli from the nasalpassage, and the textural and thermal sensationsyou experience while drinking.

SMELLEven before you sip tea,you will notice its aroma.While it is hot, you will smellwafts of the teas bouquet in

the air near the surface of theliquid. As you bring your noseclose to the surface of the teaand sniff, you will engage theolfactory system. After inhaling,exhale through your nose.Aromas linger in the nasalpassage, preparing your sensesfor the experience of taste insideyour mouth.

There are hundreds of different flavorcompounds in tea, but the average person cancategorize only a few. With some concentrationand a little experience, it is possible to trainyour brain to identify them. Take a lookat the flavor wheel on pages5051 to identify some ofthe key flavors in tea.

SENSESWhen thinking aboutidentifying flavors, it isimportant to understandhow senses work with one another.The cup illustration, right, helps you to

understand how texture and taste worktogether to form your experience ofastringency in the cup. Likewise tasteand smell do not exist in isolation, butrather meet within the olfactory systemto give you the experience of flavor.

FLAVORFlavor is the combination

of smell and taste, and this iswhat we experience when eatingor drinking. Taste is closely tied tosmell75 percent of what we tasteis determined by smell. Volatile

aromatic oils in tea evaporateand rise into our nasal passages

as we sip, creating flavors thatcan only be detected when the

senses of smell and tastework together.

TEMPERATURETemperature plays an important role in the sensoryperception of tea. When tea is hot, aromas evaporatemore quickly and certain layers of flavor disappearfrom the cup as it cools. Studies have shown that thetongue detects more astringency in a hot drink than acool one, so it would benefit your experience of tasting

delicately flavored teas, such as white tea, to let themcool slightly before attempting to identify flavors.

THE SCIENCE OF FLAVOR 49


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TASTEThe tongues taste budscontain taste receptors thatfeed messages to the brain.When we sip tea, saliva issecreted and flavors arechanged and moderated.To taste and evaluate thecharacter of a tea, slurprapidly to spread the tea

over all the receptors onthe tongue.

TEXTUREYou will feel the texture oftea when it comes into contactwith the teeth and the mucousmembranes lining the inside ofthe mouth. This is often referredto as mouthfeel. The astringency,body, and smoothness of the tea

determine the texture. Teas withlow astringency might have asoft mouthfeel, while teas witha high degree of astringencymight have a fuzzy mouthfeel.

THE TONGUECovered with 10,000 taste buds, each containing 50100taste receptor cells, the tongue is capable of identifyingfive basic tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami(a Japanese term meaning pleasant savory taste), eachin a specific area.

The diagram below illustrates what is commonlyknown as the tongue map. It shows each distinct areaof the tongue with the receptors for sweet on the tip,receptors for salt on either side of the front of thetongue, sour receptors on either side behind this,

and bitter receptors at the back. Umami is detected inthe center of the tongue, which scientists had previouslythought to be taste blind. When tasting tea, itsimportant to make sure the liquor reaches each ofthe five taste areas of the tongue so you are ableto experience all of the flavors.

Bitter

Umami

SourSour

SaltSalt

Sweet

QUICKLY SLURP THETEA TO STRIKE ALLOF THE TASTE

RECEPTORS ONTHE TONGUE

ASTRINGENCYTaste and texture come together

to create astringency, an importantcharacteristic of tea. It is the puckering or drying

sensation in the mouth caused by the chemical reaction ofthe tea with saliva. Astringency occurs in varying degrees,

depending on the amount of polyphenols (tannins)released during the teas infusion. Tea

connoisseurs value astringency in the rightamount, but too much is unpleasant.



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FLAVOR

APPRECIATIONWhen drinking tea, it may be difficult to distinguishbetween flavors. The flavor wheel, a visual representationof the distinct flavors and aromas found in teas, is a handyguide that will help you to understand and appreciate theintricacies of flavor.

Evaluating tea using taste receptors in the mouth andnose opens us up to a world of broad flavor profiles, herecategorized into 12 groups. Each group can then befurther dissected into descriptors that allow you toanalyze facets of the teas flavors and characteristics.

Refer to the wheel after first smelling the aroma andthen sipping the liquid infusion of the tea. Your firstresponse will come from the inner wheel. For example:the green tea Bai Luo Chun (Green Snail Springtime) willimmediately evoke vegetal, sweet, and nutty flavors.

Take another sip or sniff the wet leaves and looktoward the smaller sections within this category. Youmay now detect the sweetness of corn in the vegetalcategory and the more specific flavor of chestnuts in thenutty section. Experimentation and experience will help

you identify the flavors in any tea.

NUTSNuts define roastedand sweet flavors in

all types of tea. They aregood descriptors for the

astringency of teas tannins.

THE MORE YOU TASTE,THE EASIER IT IS TOIDENTIFY FLAVORS

Cinnamon

Nutmeg

Tobacco

Clove

Custard

Cream

MilkBu

tter

IronChalkStoneBarbeque

Wetcharco

al

SmokeTar

AshGrass

AlfalfaSweetgrassBokchoy

LegumesCooke

dpeasHay

Corn

Artichoke

Asparagus

Thyme

Parsley

Mint

Seaweed

Ocean

air

Fish

Beach

Osma

nthu

s

Chrysanthe

mum

Orchid

Rose

Gerani

um

Hone

ysuck

le

Elde

rflow

er

Viole

t

Lil

ac

Ch

estnut

Hazeln

ut

Alm

ond

Pin

en

uts

Wa

lnuts

Pump

kin

see

d

Coconu

t

VEGETAL

SPICEDA

IRYMINERALFIRE

MARINE

FLORAL

N

UTTY

FLAVOUR APPRECIATION 51


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APPLESA characteristic flavor ofautumnal Darjeelings, apple

aroma also acts as an indicatorto the producer that a Darjeelinghas finished oxidizing.

HONEYLightly oxidizedoolongs from Taiwansometimes have asweet honey flavor.

CHOCOLATESome ripe Puer teas

have a distinct dark orraw chocolate definition.

ROSEThe floral scent of rose

may be picked up indark, roasted oolongs.

CLOVESA hint of clove may beapparent in Darjeelingand in some ripe Puer.

Prune

s

Black

curra

nt

Raisins

Waterm

elon

Cantaloupe

Honeydew

Lychee

P

ineapple

Kiw

i

Banana

Freshgrapes

Grapeskin

Blueberry

Blackberry

Raspberry

Strawberry

Pears

Apples

Peach

Apricot

Blackcherry

Plum

Bergamo

tGrap

efruit

Kumqua

tLem

onOran

ge

Caramel

Burntsu

gar

Dark

chocolate

Honey

Molasse

s

Butte

rscotch

Vanilla

Wetla

ndsWe

tsoil

Barnya

rd

Mushr

oomM

oss

Dampforest

Leath

er

Resin

Camph

orSa

pBark

Pin

e

Ce

dar

Oak

Li

quor

ice

SWEET

DRIED

FRU

IT

MELON

TROPICALFRUITS

GRAPES

BERRIES

TREEFRUIT

STONEFRUIT

CITRU

S

EART

HY

W

OOD

FRESHAND

DRIEDFRUIT



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WATERAccording to an ancient Chinese proverb, water is the mother of tea. Because it makes up99 percent of a cup of tea, there is some truth to this. The quality of water you infuse withhas a major impact on the flavor of your tea. To get the best out of your tea leaves, useclean and odorless water that has been heated to the right temperature.

Rainfall, pollution, and the local aquifer (porous undergroundrock from which groundwater is extracted) all affect your

local water source, whether rural or urban. These factorsinfluence the mineral and odor content of the water and itspHthe measurement, from 014, of acidity (at the low end)or alkalinity (at the high end) in liquids.

Generally, water has a neutral pH of 7, but sometimestap water can be a little too alkaline or acidic for tea. Tapwater also contains dissolved gases, which might haveodors, or could be highly mineralized, which canoverpower the delicate flavors in the infusion.

If you dont have a filter attached to your watersystem that dispenses pure water for tea, you can tryusing these alternatives:

Bottled spring water Not to be confused with mineralwater, which is unsuitable due to the minerals added;

look for spring water with 50100ppm dissolved mineralsalt content. Higher amounts will give a heavy mineralflavor to the tea.Filtered tap water Portable water filter jugs work wellto filter out unwanted odors and minerals from tapwater. Change the filter as recommended.Distilled water mixedwith tap water Distilled wateris flat and unappealing, but adding it to tap water thathas a high mineral content will make it suitable for tea.Experiment with various ratios depending on the qualityof your tap water.

WATER

TEMPERATURESBoiling point varies according to elevation.If you live in an area over 4,265ft (1,300m)above sea level, your water will not havereached 210F (100C) when your kettle turnsoff. To compensate for this, add an extra halfteaspoon of tea leaves per person and leavethe infusion for a few extra minutes.

THE RIGHT HEAT

If the water for the infusion istoo hot, the tea will be bitterand lose its aroma; if too cold,

the tea will not infuse properly.

WATER 53


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THE OPTIMUM WATER FOR TEA HASA NEUTRAL PH OF 7, LOW DISSOLVED

MINERAL CONTENT, AND NO CHLORINEOR OTHER GASEOUS ODORS

If you dont havea

variable temperaturekettle, boil the water and

let it sit in the kettle with the

lid open for 5 minutes forgreen, white, and yellow teas;

3 minutes for oolong; and 2minutes for Puer and

other dark teas.

FINDING THE RIGHTTEMPERATUREHeating the water to the correct

temperature is key to making a goodcup of tea. A fresh, fragile green leafwill be scalded if boiling water ispoured over it; partiallyoxidized teas,such as oolongs, will need hotter, butnot boiling, water, and fullyoxidizedblack teas will need boiling water torelease their flavors. Whatever the

desired infusion temperature, alwaysbegin with freshly drawn cool water.

Black210F (100C)

Puerand oolong200F (95C)

Whiteand yellow175F (80C)

Green170F (75C)



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GLASS TEAPOT WITHCOILED SPOUT FILTERA glass teapot has all the conveniences of other infuserteapots and the added benefit of enabling you to watchthe leaves swirl through the water, releasing theircolors. The stainless steel coiled spout filter stopsthe leaves escaping from the teapot as the liquid is

poured into the cup.

TEAMAKING EQUIPMENTTea shops offer a baffling array of teaware designed for a superlative teaexperience. Assuming that the tea will be prepared using loose leaves,and that they need room to expand, here are some of the bestchoices that are available.

Infuser

Lid

Spout

PORCELAIN TEAPOTSWITH INFUSERSThe classic teapot comes in a variety of sizes. A 3-cuppot will serve two people with a little extra for refills.Pouring the hot water into the pot from a height of about10in (25cm) will push the leaves a bit and speed up theflavor release. To avoid a bitter liquor, always remove theinfuser once the tea is ready.

Stainless steelcoiled spout filter

TEAMAKING EQUIPMENT 55


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Lid

Mesh

Panel with preset

temperatures

VARIABLETEMPERATURE KETTLESThese easy-to-use kettles have accurate temperaturesettings for each type of tea; simply select the tea typeand press the button. Others have temperature settings,

so it is necessary to know the optimal temperature foreach type of tea (see pp4247). Some models even allowyou to infuse the leaves in the kettle.

MUGS WITHSTAINLESS STEELMESH INFUSERSMug infusers are relatively easy to clean afteruse, so they are ideal for infusing tea without toomuch fuss. They function quite well, giving theleaves lots of room to deliver their flavor. Thosewith lids offer the best infusion because theypreserve the aromas released by the leaves.

TEA BALL INFUSERSThese come in many forms, ranging from the classicball, to a host of novelty shapes. Most hook onto the

sides of mugs or teapots. All do the job well, butsome inhibit the leaves from expanding, so makesure there is enough room in the infuser, anddo not fill it to the brim with dry leaves.



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DOUBLE-WALLED

GLASS CUPMade of hand-blown glass,these cups keep the liquidhot by trapping air betweenlayers of glass. Be carefulwith your first sip, though;the cup may be cool to thetouch, but the water inside

may be scalding.

GAIWANUsed in China to prepare tea, the gaiwan, orlidded bowl, comes with a saucer and holds

about 34cup of liquid, the same size as a classicchina teacup. To make tea, place the tea leavesin the gaiwan, add water, and leave to steep.The standard steeping times can be reducedbecause of the shape and size of the vesselthe domed lid allows good air flow andcondensation, while the vessel, wideningtoward the top, allows the leaves plenty of

room to release their flavors. Pour into a cupto serve, slightly tipping the lid so that theleaves remain inside, ready to be used for thenext infusion. In China, some people drinkdirectly from the gaiwan, leaves and all.

FRENCH PRESSA coffee classic, the French press is also commonly used

to infuse tea. The method of use is the same. Place thedry leaves in the press, pour the water over, leave for the

recommended infusion time, and plunge. Use a light touchwhile plunging. The plunger should separate the leaves fromthe liquor, but not squeeze them enough to damage them,

assuming that they will be used for another infusion. Pour allthe tea out of the press when the infusion is ready to avoidover-steeping the leaves.

Plunger

Inner glasslayer

Lid

Saucer

Bowl

TEAMAKING EQUIPMENT 57


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TRAVEL FLASKSThere is an assortment of travel flasksavailable to make drinking on the goeasy and convenient. Most flasks alsohave thermal insulation to keep the teahot. Some have glass interiors, but mostare made of stainless steel. The best oneshave infuser baskets that nestle into theupper part of the flask. These are a mobileversion of a teapot with an infuser. Place

the dry leaves in the basket and poursome hot water through it. Tightly fastenthe lid and invert the flask for infusion.

SMART INFUSERSUsually made from BPA-free plastic, this infuser is the

perfect size for single cups of tea. Place the leaves in theinfuser, pour the water over them, then place the infuseron top of a teapot or cup. Release the finished tea into thecup by pushing the button on the lid. Some infusersautomatically release the tea when placed on the cup.They are certainly convenient, and favored by tea roomsand tea shops, but no easier to clean than a teapot.

Infuser basket

Flask

Releasebutton

Lid

Built-in strainer



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HOT INFUSERSTraditionally, tea is infused with hot water, and

leaves are processed with this in mind. There are nowinnovative alternatives to the conventional teapot thatwork equally well for infusion.

THE TEA SHAKERThis is a simple but brilliant concept. Composed of twocompartments connected by a stainless steel filter, thetea shaker is similar to a classic hourglass. Place the tealeaves in the top compartment, add the hot water, andclose the lid. Flip the device so it is upside down, andleave to infuse. After infusing for the required time, flipthe device again and shake it from side to side to let thetea strain through the filter into the bottom compartment.

COLD INFUSERSThese devices are designed for a long steep, andallow the tea leaves to release their flavors slowly.While it may seem counterintuitive to the traditionalpractice of using hot water to draw out the teas finesttraits, cold infusion creates a lighter-bodied infusion,with a mellower, sweeter flavor. The method worksparticularly well with green and yellow teas, and is aninventive way of infusing Darjeelings.

SINGLE SERVEThis cold infuser comes in several shapes and is veryeasy to use. Place the dry leaves in the infuser and addcold water. Screw on the adapter with the built-in filter,and leave in the fridge to infuse for 23 hours. After that,pour the tea infusion through the adapter. Some infusers

come with a removable infusion strainer, which holds theleaves, instead of a built-in filter. In such a case, removethe strainer before pouring.

The leavesareleft to infuse incold water.

Built-in filter

NEW WAYS TO INFUSE TEAA number of innovative devices for infusing tea are now available.Some of them are simple and streamlined, others are eccentric, butthey all produce a good cup of tea, and are well worth trying.

The tea is strainedinto the lowercompartment

through a stainless

steel filter.

The leaves areinfusedin hot

water in the topcompartment.

The infusionis collected inthe lowercompartment.

Adapter

NEW WAYS TO INFUSE TEA 59


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INFUSER TOWERThe cold infuser tower has beakers and glass tubes, andit looks like a piece of laboratory equipment. Standing at

34ft (90120cm) tall, it is too big to fit in the fridge.Place the leaves in the middle beaker. Pour cold waterinto the top beaker and add ice cubes to keep theinfusion cold. The iced water will trickle through theleaves and follow a winding path to the bottom beaker.The whole process will take about 2 hours for white tea.Add another hour for green, yellow, and light oolongs,and increase to 4 hours for roasted oolongs. Puer and

black teas take the longest to infuse, at about 5 hours.

Use 50percent more

dried leaf than you

would use for a hotinfusion. Cold infusion

doesnt extract as manycatechins or as much

caffeine, which meansthe result will be

sweeter.

The water

tricklesthroughthe leaves in the

middle beaker.

Cold water andice cubes areplaced in the

top beaker.

The infused teais collected in

the lower beaker.

The infusiondrips down thewinding tubes.

COLD INFUSIONREQUIRES LESSENERGYAND

THEREFORE HAS ASMALLER CARBONFOOTPRINT



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There are two methods of blending tea: commericalblending and signature blending. Commercial blending

involves using as many as 3040 teas of various originsto create a consistent taste from season to season forthe commercial tea bag industry. Master blenders tastehundreds of teas daily from all the tea-growing regions tocreate a dependable blend. The goal is to create the sameflavors today that you had last year and the year before.

CLASSIC BLENDSMost tea lovers are familiar with these blends, and some of these classics have endured forcenturies. Other than Genmaicha, all can be served with milk. Try the blend recipes givenbelow, or experiment with the proportions to come up with your own signature blend.

GENMAICHA

Known as the peoples tea in Japan,Genmaicha consists of Sencha leaves and

roasted rice, which was traditionally addedas a filler to make the tea more affordable,

but is now appreciated for its flavor.Occasionally, there are a few grains of

popped rice in the blend, which is why it isalso called popcorn tea. Heres an easy

recipe to make your own rice forGenmaicha. Rinse short-grain white rice,

then dry-fry on low heat in a cast-ironfrying pan for 1015 minutes until the rice is

golden. When the grains have cooled,mix them with the Japanese Sencha.

BREAKFAST BLENDThere are many versions of this classic morning blend. The most

common is English Breakfast, which features teas from India,

Sri Lanka, and Kenya in varying proportions. Irish Breakfastuses Assam in its blend, and is therefore quite robust. Breakfastblends were often tailored to accommodate the hardness orsoftness of the water in the areas they were created for. Blendrecipes are a closely guarded secret, and no tea company ofrepute will give theirs away.

GENMAICHA

BREAKFAST BLEND

BLENDING TEASThe practice of blending began 400 years ago in the Fujian province of China, when loose-leaf teareplaced the solid, hard-to-blend brick tea, and jasmine and other flowers were added to enhanceflavor and fragrance. While the classic blends remain popular, there are new blending styles thatexperiment with fruit and flowers. Practice the art of blending your own tea with these recipes.

Sencha

31

2oz (100g)

Rice312oz (100g)

Kenyanblack312oz (100g)

Ceylon134oz (50g)

Keemun13

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