TE 402 Fabric Design

Fabric Analysis Example

Introduction

• In this study, the fabric analysis and necessary calculations to reproduce the fabric is presented.

• The process can be explained in two following titles:

Fabric analysis

Calculations

Fabric Analysis The Face of the fabric is determined. The warp and weft direction of the fabric is determined. The warp set and weft set are determined. The number of warp and weft yarns are determined in Nm. The crimp of the warp and weft yarns are determined. Pattern of the fabric is determined Drafting, denting and lifting report of the fabric is determined. If the fabric consists of many colors in warp and weft direction,

the color report is determined for both warp and weft yarns.

CalculationsThe yarn count is defined as Nm and it is used for weight calculation

L1= the stretched length of the warp yarn (without crimp)

L0= the length of the warp yarn in fabric.

gram

meterNm

Crimp of the warp and weft yarns

1 0

0

100K K

Weft crimpK

1 0

0

100L L

Warp crimpL

K1= the stretched length of the warp yarn (without crimp)

K0= the length of the warp yarn in fabric.

• n= number of the warp yarns • L1= the stretched length of the warp yarn (without crimp)

• c1= the weight loss of the warp yarn after finishing process (%)• mass= mass of the ‘n’ warp yarn (gr)

1n LWarp yarn count Nm

mass

• n= number of the weft yarns • K1= the stretched length of the weft yarn (without crimp)

• mass= mass of the ‘n’ weft yarn (gr)

1n KWeft yarn count Nm

mass

Yarn count calculation

)%1(1100

CNm

settwarpG

warpwarp

Calculating the warp weight per square meter

Calculating the weft weight per square meter

)%1(1100

CNm

settweftG

weftweft

( ) 100(1 % )warp

warp

warp sett width in meterG C

Nm

Calculating the warp weight per meter

Calculating the weft weight per meter

( ) 100(1 % )weft

weft

weft sett width in meterG C

Nm

Weigth of weft yarn in fabric (gr)

Re

weft

end fabric weft sett end fabric length ed widthweigth of weft yarn

Nm

10Re

( )

Warp seted number

n warps per dent

2Re 10 ( )( )

selvage endsTotal warp ends

ed width waste yarn cmreed number n warp per dent

Reed number and reed width

Length of the warp yarn and total weight of the warp yarns (gr)

[ . ( ) 100] ( )

[100 ( )]

end fab length mWarp length m

weaving crimp finishing shrinkage

[ . . ( )]( )

warp

warp length end fab warp sett end fab width cmTotal Warp weigth gr

Nm

Number of total weft yarns of end product fabric

( / ) ( )number of weft yarn end fabric weft sett picks cm end fabric length cm

. ( ) 100. ( )

100

end fab width cmRaw fab width cm

finishing shrinkageinwidth

Calculation of Raw fabric width and length

. ( ) 100. ( )

100

end fab length mRaw fab length m

finishing shrinkagein length

. . ( )

( )

end fab weft sett end fab length cmRaw fabric weft sett

raw fabric length cm

. . ( )

( )

end fab warp sett end fab width cmRaw fabric warp sett

raw fabric width cm

Calculation of Raw fabric weft and warp setts

)/()(

cmendscmlengthyarnwarp

endsweftTotalsettweftMechanical

Calculation of required parameters for weaving preparations

. . ( )( / )

( )

End fab warp sett end fab width cmwarp sett in reed ends cm

reed width cm

( ) . . ( )Total warps ends End fab warp sett end fab width cm

n: rotation speed of main shaft (rev/min)

b: working width of the weaving machine

µ: efficiency of the weaving machine

D: number of weft yarn in 10 cm fabric

( / min)100

n bproduction m

Calculation of Fabric Production

2 60( / )

100 10

n bproduction m hour

D

Example

• A fabric sample with 1.6 m width and 1500 m length will be produced. The warp yarns has count of 30/1 Ne and the weft yarns has count of 20/1 Ne. Design of the fabric is 10.0101.01.00(s).

• Assume that the shrinage of the warp and weft yarns because of finishing process are 12% and 10% respectively.

Fabric Pattern Analysis

4 03 0

2 0

1 0

1 2 3 4

4

3

21

1 2 3 4

Selvage of the fabric

43

2 0 0

1 0 0

4

3

21

1 2 3 4

Ground fabric

Color Plan

R

G

B

Bk

Bk

B

G

R

R G B Bk Bk B G R Bk W Bk W

Groun yarns color plan Selvage color plan

Warp yarns

Wef

t yar

ns

Selavge yarns

Color PlanPicking order

Warping order

colour Colour Order number

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Red 1 1 =2

Gold 1 1 =2

Blue 1 1 =2

Black 2 =2

Total = 8 ends

colour Colour Order number

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Red 1 1 =2

Gold 1 1 =2

Blue 1 1 =2

Black 2 =2

Total = 8 ends

Selvage order

colour Colour Order number

1 2 3 4

Black 1 1 =2

White 1 1 =2

Total = 4 ends

R

G

B

Bk

Bk

B

G

R

R G B Bk Bk B G R Bk W Bk W

• End fabic warp sett = 30 ends/cm• End fabric weft sett = 28 picks/cm

• Warp yarn count: Weft yarn count:

Length without cripm (cm) Length without cripm (cm)

1. 1.

2. 2.

3. 3.

4. 4.

5. 5.

6. 6.

7. 7.

8. 8.

9. 9.

10. 10.

30 1.693 50.79meter

NmWarpgram

20 1.693 33.86meter

NmWeftgram

Warp crimp (%): Weft crimp (%):

L1 (without cripm) L0 (with cripm) Crimp(%) L1 (without cripm) L0 (with cripm) Crimp(%)

1. 1.

2. 2.

3. 3.

4. 4.

5. 5.

6. 6.

7. 7.

8. 8.

9. 9.

10. 10.

______________________________________________________________________________________ Average: 9.7 % Average: 11.5 %

Calculation of Fabric Weight per Meter Square

100 1 30 100 (1 0.097)(1 % ) 64.79

50.79warpwarp

warp settG C gr

Nm

100 1 28 100 (1 0.115)(1 % ) 92.2

33.86weftweft

warp settG C gr

Nm

264.79 92.2 156.99 157 /fabric warp weftG G G gr m

Calculation of Fabric Weight per Meter

( ) 100 30 1.6 100 (1 0.097)(1 % ) 103.67 /

50.79warpwarp

warp sett width in meterG C gr m

Nm

( ) 100 28 100 1.6 (1 0.115)(1 % ) 147.53 /

33.86weftweft

weft sett width in meterG C gr m

Nm

103.67 147.53 251.2 /fabric warp weftG G G gr m

Calculations for Reproduction of The Fabric

10 100 15 x 2=30 warp yarns for one selvage

1.5 X 30 x 2=60 warp yarns for both elvages

____________

X = 15 dents for selvages

10 30 10Re 100 / 3

( ) 3

Warp seted number

n warps per dent

Ground warp ends = ∑ warp ends – selvage warp ends = 4800-60= 4740 ends

# of dents = 4740/3 =1580 dents for ground

1580 dents + 15x2 dents (for selvages) = 1610 dents

10 cm 100 dents

X 1610 dents

X = 161 cm => it is taken as 165 cm

165 + 3.5 x 2 (waste for weft yarns) = 172 cm reed width

Calculation of Weft YarnWeight

28 1500 172213.35

33.86weigth of weft yarn kg

Re

weft

end fabric weft sett end fabric length ed widthweigth of weft yarn

Nm

Calculation of Warp YarnWeight[ . ( ) 100]

( ) [100 ( )]

end fab length mWarp length m

weaving crimp finishing shrinkage

[ . . ( )]( )

warp

warp length end fab warp sett end fab width cmTotal Warp weigth gr

Nm

[1500 100] ( ) 1891.6

[100 (9.7 11)]Warp length m m

[1891.6 30 160]( ) 178.77

50.79Total Warp weigth gr kg

Raw fabric width and length

. ( ) 100. ( )

100

end fab width cmRaw fab width cm

finishing shrinkageinwidth

. ( ) 100. ( )

100

end fab length cmRaw fab length cm

finishing shrinkagein length

160 100. ( ) 177.7

100 10Raw fab width cm cm

150000 100. ( ) 170454.5 1704.5

100 12Raw fab length cm cm m

Raw fabric

End fabric

. . ( )

( )

end fab weft sett end fab length cmRaw fabric weft sett

raw fabric length cm

. . ( )

( )

end fab warp sett end fab width cmRaw fabric warp sett

raw fabric width cm

Calculation of Raw fabric weft and warp setts

30 160( )27.01 27 /

177.7 ( )

cmRaw fabric warp sett ends cm

cm

28 15000024.64 25 /

170454.5Raw fabric weft sett picks cm

Calculation of Raw fabric weight in one m2 and one m

2 2178770 213350( / ) 129.5 /

1.777 1704.5Raw fabric weigth gr m gr m

2( / ). ( ) . ( )

warpweigh wef tweightRaw fabric weigth gr m

raw fab width m raw fab lenght m

2( / ) . ( / ) .Raw fabric weigth gr m raw fab weight gr m raw fab widht

( / ) 129.24 1.777 229.7 /Raw fabric weigth gr m gr m

Calculations for weaving preparations

)/()(

cmendscmlengthyarnwarp

endsweftTotalsettweftMechanical

. . ( )( / )

( )

End fab warp sett end fab width cmwarp sett in reed ends cm

reed width cm

( ) . . ( )Total warps ends End fab warp sett end fab width cm

28 1500 10022.2 22 /

189160Mechanical weft sett picks cm

30 160( / ) 27.9 28 /

172warp sett in reed ends cm ends cm

( ) 160 30 4800Total warps ends ends

( / min)100

n bproduction m

2 60( / )

100 10

n bproduction m hour

D

Calculation of Fabric Production

n: rotation speed of main shaft (rev/min)

b: working width of the weaving machine

µ: efficiency of the weaving machine

D: number of weft yarn in 10 cm fabric

500 1.6 80( / min) 640

100production m m

It is assumed that the n=500 rpm and µ=80%

2 60 500 1.6 80( / ) 13.71

100 280 10production m hour