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Transcript of SHOP Holland SS15
HOLLAND | ГОЛЛАНДИЯ | 荷兰 | BELANDA
HO
LL
AN
D City
Editio
n S
prin
g/Su
mm
er 2015
Page 44
PRACTICALLY
PERFECT:
how the Dutch
mastered day-to-
night chic
TAX FREE
Shop the world’s most exclusive brands, such
as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Burberry, Gucci,
Salvatore Ferragamo and Longines. Visit our
fl agship store in Amsterdam on Dam Square
and receive your Tax Refund on the 4th fl oor.
Find out more at deBijenkorf.nl/international
EDITOR’S LETTER
8
Emma Cheevers
@shopcontent
/globalblue/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: IS
AA
C B
ON
AN
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Buenos Aires
Cologne
Copenhagen
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا德国指南
Руководство Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Istanbul
Italy
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Milan
Munich
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
巴黎
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Tokyo
Vienna
Vilnius
Welcome to Holland
Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of Holland.
Read about the footwear brand that’s pushing
boundaries in design and manufacture (page
50), the country’s most innovative restaurants
(page 58), and much more.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax
Free Shopping market leader that helps you
save up to 16% when shopping in Holland. We
publish guides to over 40 destinations across
Europe and Asia. Our international insider
knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell
you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in
Holland. For the very latest information, visit
globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free Global
Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free
without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and
enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and
promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
10
globalblue.com
CONTRIBUTORS
Thomas Danthony
Thomas Danthony created this
season’s cover illustration for
SHOP Holland. His eye-catching
artwork has previously been
commissioned by Microsoft,
Nokia and M&C Saatchi, among
others. His clever compositions
make him a perfect illustrator for
this cover, inspired by our feature
about the versatility of Dutch wo-
menswear on page 44. It shows
a stylish woman in an outft that
can take her from casual daywear
to glamorous eveningwear with
a few well-chosen accessories.
Read more about our cover illustra-
tions at globalblue.com/covers.ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: TH
OM
AS
DA
NT
HO
NY
Verity Hogan
After working for a Mexican mag-
azine and reporting in Romania,
history graduate Verity Hogan
swapped writing about crinolines
and corsets for more contemporary
clothes when she moved to London
to pursue journalism. She is now
SHOP’s features editor.
Theresa Harold
SHOP’s fashion assistant Theresa
Harold studied creative writing
at Bath Spa University. Since then,
she has worked in Hong Kong,
Macau and London, covering the
latest in luxury living. She has in-
terviewed celebrities, designers,
CEOs – and, memorably, a prince.
7forallmankind.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
SHOP FLOOR
14
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online assistant
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators
Xun Ji, Yin Shi,
Chenguang Yi
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Associate Russian editor
Daria Orlova
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena
Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Translation services
Language Connect
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Aaron Carline
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Chief Executive Officer
David Baxby
Chief Traveller Officer
Craig Le Grice
SHOP is published by
Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing executive
Wenhan Zhang
Digital marketing intern
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Digital intern
Sammy Ha
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Thomas Danthony
Contributor
Kate Moore
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Acting production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Production assistant
Katie Muxworthy
Features editor
Verity Hogan
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Fashion and news intern
Rebecca Fearn
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook,
Claire Gervat, Ann
Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/ deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya,
Sarah Walker
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Adam Dhaliwal
Artworking assistants
Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala,
George Trinick
Artworking intern
Samantha Junak
GL OBA L BLU E
N E T H E R L A N DS
Head of commercial Benelux
Marja van Reijn
Marketing and sales manager
Kathy van Haaren
Sales and marketing support
Nikki de Graaf,
Regina de Neve
Key account manager
Peter Belang
Account managers
Arvind Gangapersadsing,
Astrid Maes,
Karish Resodikromo,
Irene Schermer
Global Blue Holland BV,
Leidsevaartweg 99-6,
2106 AS Heemstede,
The Netherlands,
+31 (0)23 524 1909
Elegance is an attitude
Kate Winslet
Conquest Classic
Hobbemastraat 14
1071 ZB Amsterdam
+31(0)20 303 1218
CONTENTS
18
Above: SuperTrash’s latest collection is a perfect example of the wearable yet innovative aesthetic of Holland’s womenswear brands
p.44
PRODUC TS
24 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece
from Holland this season
26 My Favourites
Jeweller Bibi van der Velden
reveals her top tips for spring/
summer 2015
28 Products
Key looks for the season,
from fashion and footwear
to jewellery and accessories
N E WS
36 Shop Window
One store not to be missed
in Holland
38 News
Seasonal updates on shops,
services and new products
F E AT U R E S
44 Cover Story:
Efortless Cool
Holland’s womenswear
designers ofer an inviting
blend of innovation
and wearability,
attracting international
attention in the process,
as Kate Moore discovers
50 Leading The Way
United Nude continues
to push boundaries
in footwear design
and manufacture.
Founder Rem D Koolhaas
talks to Verity Hogan
about the brand’s past,
present and future
CONTENTS
20
E X PE R I E NCE
58 Table Talk
Dining out in Holland
is a rewarding experience,
says Theresa Harold
64 Perfect Day
Where to go and what to do
in Rotterdam and The Hague
GU I DE
69 Maps and guides to Holland’s
top shops and destinations,
plus SHOP’s unique view
of Amsterdam’s sights
E SSE N T I A L S
93 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving
money on your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
94 Русский Перевод98 美文翻译
100 Terjemahan Bahasa Indonesia
SOU V E N I R
106 The essential item
to bring home
Follow the Global Blue editors
on the move for up-to-the-
minute shopping tips and
insider information.
GET SOCIAL
@shopcontent
/globalblue
/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlueRu
COMPETITIONS
FASHION
ONLINE
ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
PH
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.Footwear, Apparel &
Accessories for Every Escape Timberland.nl
24 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
PH
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ST
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FL
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FLYING HIGH
Inject a dose of colour into your
summer wardrobe with this strik-
ing scarf from Hermès, made from
hand-rolled silk twill. Designer
Laurence Bourthoumieux has de-
picted two famingos in their native
Florida, where they were once wide-
spread, with the exotic creatures
surrounded by lush vegetation.
This vibrant accessory is endlessly
versatile – simply knot it around
a handbag strap for a contemporary
twist on a classic look. Hermès has
become famous worldwide for the
quality of its scarves; each one
is woven from the best quality silk
and fnished by hand. th
Hermès silk scarf, €335,
De Bijenkorf, Dam 1,
1012 JS Amsterdam,
+31 (0)88 245 9176, hermes.com
* for map go to page 76
CHECK OUT
26 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
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1) ©
GO
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MY FAVOURITES:
Bibi van der Velden
Born in New York and raised in London and the
Netherlands, Bibi van der Velden has a lifelong
passion for art. She is a trained sculptor, which
directly informs the beautiful jewellery she cre-
ates for her eponymous accessories label.
Her pieces are inspired by nature and by materi-
als she fnds on her travels. Here she shares
some of her favourite products and places
in Amsterdam with Gemma Latham
bibivandervelden.com
1. ‘I love practi-
cally everything
Anya Hindmarch
makes and have built
up a vast collec-
tion over the years.
I defnitely have one
of her new bags high
on my wish list’
Anya Hindmarch, anyahindmarch.com
2. ‘There’s a new
generation of res-
taurants that serve
pure, good food and
where the interiors are
simple but just right.
The owners are fanati-
cal about what they do,
and their enthusiasm
is inspiring. Rijsel
is a good example’
Rijsel, Marcusstraat 52B, 1091 TK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 463 2142, rijsel.com
3. ‘I really love Aesop.
My skin is hyper-
sensitive, but it
reacts well to Aesop’s
products. I also like
the packaging and
the wildfower scents’
Aesop Primrose Facial
Cleansing Masque
60ml, €29, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, aesop.com
21
1
SHOP | 27
4. ‘I love what
independent stores
are doing at the
moment; many are
pop-ups, but Hutspot
is a great concept and
is open all year round’
Hutspot, Van Woustraat 4, 1073 LL Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 223 1331, hutspotamsterdam.com
5. ‘My signature fra-
grance is Philosykos
from Diptyque’
Diptyque Philosykos
fragrance, 75ml, €98, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, diptyque.com
6. ‘Scarab wings are
a recurring element
in my work. I love
this ring’
Bibi van der Velden
Scarab ring in sterling
silver and 18-carat gold
with brown diamonds
and a scarab wing,
€2,495, White Space, Maarten Jansz Kosterstraat 18, 1017 VZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 9095, bibivandervelden.com
globalblue.com
63
4
5
28 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
3. Hugo sandals, €249, Hugo Boss,
Leidsestraat 1-3, 1017 NS Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 422 1511, hugoboss.com
4. Cos printed silk coat, €135, Cos,
Venestraat 17-19, 2511 AR The Hague,
+31 (0)70 363 5773, cosstores.com
1. & Other Stories nail polish, €7,
& Other Stories, Heiligeweg 26-28,
1012 XR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 427 5139,
stories.com
2. Happy Plugs earbuds, €34.16,
Capi, Amsterdam Schiphol Airport
(Arrivals 2), 1118 CP Schiphol,
+31 (0)20 446 6310, happyplugs.com
RISE AND
SHINE
Wake up to the
dazzling possibilities
of metallic accessories
1
2
3
4
ATTOLINI · ALESSANDRO GHERARDI · BRIONI · BRUNELLO CUCINELLI · CARUSO ·
CORNELIANI · ETRO · EMANUELE MAFFEIS · FINAMORE · FRAY · HERNO ·
JACOB COHEN · MONCLER · LORO PIANA · SANTONI · WOOLRICH
P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 75-81 AMSTERDAM · KRUISKADE 63-65 ROTTERDAM ·
NOORDEINDE 6 THE HAGUE · LANGE GASTHUISSTRAAT 7 ANTWERP, BELGIUM ·
SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.OGER.NL
30 | PRODUCTS
PH
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1) ©
BO
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& S
JÖST
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; (4)
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PH
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AP
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Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
3. Lennebelle bracelet, €49, Groos, Schiekade 203, 3013 BR Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 414 5816, lennebelle.com
4. Jimmy Choo stilettos, €425, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 3333, jimmychoo.com
1. Byredo Bullion eau de parfum,
100ml, €140, Skins Cosmetics, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat 137, 3012 GT Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 214 2505, byredo.com
2. Marc Cain skirt, €129.90, Marc Cain, PC Hooftstraat 126, 1071 CD Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 6155, marc-cain.com
BLACK GOLD
Take a stroll on the dark side with accessories ft for a rock star
1
2
3
4
5
globalblue.com
7. Swarovski necklace, €89, Swarovski, Spuistraat 12A, 2511 BD The Hague, +31 (0)70 360 4473, swarovski.com
8. Dolce & Gabbana watch, €5,950, Dolce & Gabbana, PC Hooftstraat 106, 1071 CC Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 470 6468, dolcegabbana.com
5. Mulberry backpack, €1,690, Mulberry, PC Hooftstraat 46, 1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 3222, mulberry.com
6. G-Star coat, €179.95, G-Star, PC Hooftstraat 24-28, 1071 BX Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 471 1117, g-star.com
SHOP | 31
6 7
8
32 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
1. Marc O’Polo trench coat, €269.90,
Marc O’Polo, Hartenstraat 9,
1016 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 622 6416,
marc-o-polo.com
2. Lieke van Opstal snood, €90,
Damage Playground, Hillelaan 29,
3072 JD Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 751 1587,
liekevanopstal.nl
3. Acne trousers, €250, Acne,
Oude Spiegelstraat 8, 1016 BM Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 422 6845, acnestudios.com
4. Topman sunglasses, €34,
De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam,
+31 (0)88 245 3333, topman.com
WANDERLUST
Unleash your inner nomad with this travel-friendly
ensemble
1
SHOP | 33
globalblue.com
5. Scotch & Soda iPhone 6 case,
€27.95, Scotch & Soda, Heiligeweg 34-36,
1012 XS Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 528 7661,
scotch-soda.com
6. Moleskine travel notebook, €22.90,
Scheltema, Koningsplein 20,
1017 BB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 523 1411,
moleskine.com
7. Lomography Diana camera, €119,
Urban Outftters, 31-33 Kalverstraat,
1012 NX Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 422 2981, lomography.com
PH
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36 | NEWS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
SHOP WINDOW
IT’S A MAN’S WORLD
Founded by three young men from
Amsterdam (a designer, a curator
and an entrepreneur), Concrete
Matter began life as a small web-
shop in 2012. The trio brought to-
gether a selection of goods for men
that, as they describe, walked the
line between beauty and durability.
Moving to a bricks-and-mortar lo-
cation just a year later, Concrete
Matter is one of the more
interesting stores in Amsterdam,
with one of the most consistently
great selections around. You’ll fnd
nothing forgettable, as the team
strives against the culture of anon-
ymous mass-production, and each
piece is still chosen for that same
balance of beauty and durability.
All this and more is why it was
voted ‘best shop in Amsterdam’
by local guide NL Streets. hl
Concrete Matter,
Haarlemmerdijk 127,
1013 KE Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 261 0933,
concrete-matter.com
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250 BRANDS - 30-70% SAVINGS - 7 DAYS A WEEK
HUGO BOSS - GANT - GUESS - NIKE - LACOSTE - MARC O’POLO
G-STAR FOOTWEAR - LE CREUSET - ASICS - AND MANY MORE
WWW.BATAVIASTAD.COM
38 | NEWS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
KEEP FIT, HAVE FUN
Exercise might not be everyone’s
favourite pastime, but even the most
gym-shy can agree that the right kit
can make you feel ready for any-
thing, and where better to stock up
on the latest in sports gear than the
Amsterdam Puma concept store?
Designed by creative architects Pla-
jer & Franz Studio, the colourful
ALL WOMAN Beloved by street-style pho-
tographers and fashion bloggers
alike, the efortless cool of Scan-
dinavian fashion is epitomised
by Danish brand Second Female.
Launched in 2010, the label has
garnered international acclaim
and is now sold worldwide. For
spring/summer 2015, look out for
Breton tops, leather biker jackets
and oversized silk shirts aplenty;
team them with tousled hair and
minimal make-up for a real Scan-
di-chic look. th
Second Female,
Prinsengracht 417-419,
1016 HM Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 420 4151,
secondfemale.com
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SHOP | 39
globalblue.com
store ofers a vast range of Puma’s
modern and stylish sportswear, with
a focus on the humble yet highly
fashionable sneaker. Look out for
interactive gadgets and tongue-in-
cheek design elements throughout:
Puma wants to put the fun into
shopping for sports gear. hl
Puma,
Singel 429-435,
1012 WP Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 528 6166,
puma.com
* for map go to page 78
A WELCOME ADDITION
Prada has opened its frst store
in Amsterdam, on prestigious
shopping street PC Hooftstraat.
Spread over two foors, the Italian
brand’s frst store in Holland has
been created by architect Roberto
Baciocchi, and takes inspiration
from both the historic building and
the urban landscape. The exclusive
boutique showcases the label’s
latest collections, including wom-
en’s ready-to-wear, leather goods
and women’s accessories, and has a
dedicated footwear space featuring
unique displays. The store also has
a small private area, dedicated to
the boutique’s special guests,
where the walls and ceiling are cov-
ered in green velvet. es
Prada, PC Hooftstraat 63H,
1071 BN Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 493 0510,
prada.com
* for map go to page 86
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40 | NEWS
love shared between two people.
When it comes to one of the most
important purchases of your life,
you can put your complete trust
in the experts at Tifany. mkh
Tifany & Co,
PC Hooftstraat 86-88,
1071 CB Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 305 0920, tifany.com
* for map go to page 86
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
WE LOVE TIFFANY
They say that diamonds are
a girl’s best friend, and Tifany
knows this better than most. Since
it created its (literally) trademark
Tifany™ Setting in 1886 – an ele-
vated, six-prong setting that dis-
plays the stone to perfection – the
brand has been at the forefront
of engagement rings. The beauty
and luxury of a Tifany engagement
ring serves as a lasting reminder of a
SNEAKER GIRL
The past few years have seen
a notable growth in the female
sneaker industry. Thanks to
stores such as No Boys Allowed,
all the major brands are fnally
starting to invest more time and
money in creating more technical
and interesting models for
women. No Boys Allowed cur-
rently has two stores, one in The
Hague and one in Amsterdam,
which are the frst dedicated
women’s sneaker stores in Eu-
rope. In addition to stocking a
variety of brands, they are among
the only stores in Holland to ofer
exclusive releases and limited-
edition models. Pay a visit to ei-
ther branch for the latest models,
well-informed and enthusiastic
staf and much more. dh
No Boys Allowed,
Prinsestraat 104,
2513 CG The Hague,
+31 (0)70 780 2310,
noboysallowed.nl
Beauty and more … visit Europe’º
No. 1 perfumery!
WE WILL BE PLEASED TO WELCOME YOU
TO THE DOUGLAS WORLD OF BEAUTY:
Douglas is established in more than 100 cities in the Netherlands. For addresses see: www.douglas.nl
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.
With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
42 | NEWS
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
TIME FOR A CHANGE
‘Nobody really needs a clock’:
so says Lef Amsterdam, which has
been producing some of the most
inspiring since 2011. This unique
philosophy has led the team to de-
sign clocks that do more than just
count the seconds, minutes and
hours. For the tube clock, created
in collaboration with Dutch de-
signer Piet Hein Eek, Lef Amster-
dam took a tube and an extrusion
ring and created something simple
yet beautiful. The range comprises
a clock and a speaker, available
JEAN GENIUS
Fans of Dutch denim brand
Denham should make a bee-line for
the Denham Cofee and Concept
Store in Amsterdam’s De Negen
Straatjes (‘the nine streets’) area,
which opened last year. The store
ofers a revolving presentation
of special stories from the collection,
highlighting a diferent aspect of the
brand every few weeks, so you can
learn something new every time you
visit. The store also has a cofee bar,
where you can sip an espresso while
your favourite jeans are repaired. fm
Denham, Prinsengracht 531,
1016 HR Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 303 2825,
denhamthejeanmaker.com
* for map go to page 84
in copper, rose gold and gunmetal
colours, which can also be inserted
into a sleek wooden box, ofering a
diferent but equally elegant orna-
mental piece that just happens
to tell the time. th
Metz, Nieuwe Binnenweg 170,
3015 BH Rotterdam,
+31 (0)10 436 4566,
lefamsterdam.com
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HOME OF DESIGN
The story of Store Without
a Home began in an Amsterdam
suburb circa 2010 – in a large, un-
heated barn to be precise. Since
then, the company has moved
to various temporary locations
before fnally fnding its perma-
nent base in the city centre.
Selling distinctive products for
the home by little-known Dutch
and international brands, the
store is a curated haven for design
lovers. Best of all, if you happen
to fall for something too big for
your suitcase, your purchases can
be shipped anywhere in the world
for you. th
Store Without a Home,
Haarlemmerdijk 26,
1013 JD Amsterdam,
storewithoutahome.nl
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46 | FEATURES
Conceptual, innovative and
open-minded yet pragmat-
ic are all words that have
been used to describe the Dutch
fashion industry. These laudable
traits have meant that, since the
mid 1990s, the country’s ready-to-
wear labels have started to attract
increasing international attention,
with brands such as SuperTrash,
Scotch & Soda, Claudia Sträter
and Viktor & Rolf leading the
charge. Home to two of the world’s
most accomplished fashion acade-
mies, in Eindhoven and Arnhem,
and a varied programme of events
including Amsterdam Internation-
al Fashion Week, the Arnhem
Mode Biennale and the Dutch
Fashion Awards, Holland is rapidly
becoming one of Europe’s leading
womenswear destinations.
Occupying the space between
high-street and luxury labels, Su-
perTrash is one of the leading
brands to have emerged from the
Netherlands in recent years.
Its contemporary collections fea-
ture everything from luxe knitwear
and statement stilettos to printed
dresses and denim staples. ‘In the
digital era fashion is accessible to
everyone, but that doesn’t mean it’s
afordable for everyone,’ explains
Olcay Gulsen, the brand’s owner.
‘I hope that SuperTrash bridges the
gap and makes fashion a reality for
more women.’
The label, which recently cele-
brated its 10th anniversary, regu-
larly shows at Amsterdam Fashion
Week and is stocked in more than
2,000 boutiques worldwide as well
as having its own monobrand
stores. For spring/summer 2015,
the collection sees ‘street fashion
and urban chic united under one
roof – it’s a place where everyone’s
invited and anything goes’, says
Gulsen. Silhouettes are playful yet
glamorous and pieces range from
draped dresses and deconstructed
utility jackets to feminine peplum
skirts with sporty details. A fringed
leather skirt – the Stella – is a stand-
out item. ‘Dress it down with
a knitted sweater or opt for high
heels and a metallic top for the eve-
ning,’ Gulsen suggests.
The mix of statement pieces
and wearable basics ofered by Su-
perTrash refects the Dutch sense
of style. ‘I think Dutch women are
very practical when it comes
to dressing,’ says Gulsen.
‘That doesn’t mean we love com-
Previous: MLY spring/summer 2015 catwalk show, Amsterdam Fashion Week
/94 98
Lihat halaman 100 untuk terjemahan artikel ini
SHOP | 47
fort over style; we just know how
to combine the two into one
stylish look.’
Emily Hermans, the designer
behind emerging womenswear la-
bel MLY agrees, describing Dutch
fashion as ‘wearable, with innova-
tion in techniques and a unique
focus and concept’. MLY collec-
tions stand out thanks to their dis-
tinctive fabrics, many developed by
Hermans herself, featuring eco-
certifed yarns and natural, biode-
gradable fbres: the designer
is known for her artisanal ap-
proach. The result is a range of
pieces that tend to be united by
their strong, bold prints. ‘The typi-
cal MLY fan is a colourful person
who likes to be noticed,’ Hermans
concedes. ‘She likes graphic de-
signs and recognises quality.’
The designer became interest-
ed in developing her own materials
while studying at the Amsterdam
Fashion Institute (AMFI). ‘The
lesson was called textile styling and
we had to create our own textiles
from scratch,’ she explains. ‘Knit-
ting became my passion.’ For her
spring/summer 2015 collection,
the designer has been in a refective
mood, taking themes, designs, co-
lours and silhouettes from her pre-
vious collections to create a kalei-
doscopic fashion collage. The end
result is a multifaceted collection,
simultaneously ofering elegance
and streetwear accents, sturdy sil-
houettes with delicate detailing,
colourful graphic patterns and
more organic designs.
Despite this diversity, the
overall MLY aesthetic is typically
Above: SuperTrash spring/summer 2015 campaign featuring the Stella skirt
48 | F E AT U R E S
Above (from lef): MLY; Claudia Sträter, both spring/summer 2015
PH
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TE
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TIG
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Dutch: efortlessly wearable with
just enough added edge to make
it interesting. Adding to the brand’s
local credentials, its collections are
almost entirely produced in the
Netherlands. ‘The major part
of the production process takes
place here,’ Hermans confrms.
‘We’re environmentally friendly
and have a strong focus on keeping
knowledge and factories close.’
With its almost entirely Dutch
team, Claudia Sträter has become
one of the country’s more recogni-
sable womenswear labels. The
brand is adept at translating inter-
national trends for a Dutch audi-
ence, while its universally high
quality and eye for functionality
typically attracts women with
busy, active lives. Its designs have
a timeless sensibility, with clean
cuts and elegant lines throughout:
think easily co-ordinated sepa-
rates, printed daytime dresses and
relaxed tailoring in an appealing
palette of colours.
This focus on wearability and
versatility without sacrifcing style
may explain why Dutch fashion
brands continue to be embraced
both across Europe and further
afeld. From the chic separates
of Claudia Sträter to the luxe basics
of SuperTrash, Dutch designers of-
fer pieces that could take pride
of place in any wardrobe.
And as the baton is passed to the
next generation of designers – who
are committed to honouring this
aesthetic while testing its limits –
the Dutch international invasion
looks set to continue
supertrash.com,
mly.nl,
claudiastrater.com
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T H E E X P E R I E N C E
PH
OTO
: XX
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Above: United Nude store, Amsterdam
50 | F E AT U R E S
Rem D Koolhaas’s footwear brand United Nude continues to push boundaries in design and manufacture.
/96 99
Lihat halaman 102 untuk terjemahan artikel ini
SHOP | 51
The designer talks to Verity Hogan about the company’s past, present and future, from special-edition collaborations to 3D printing
52 | FEATURES
United Nude’s fairy-tale suc-
cess story is one born from
romantic disappointment.
Rem D Koolhaas, the footwear
company’s creative director and
co-founder, was studying archi-
tecture when he broke his heart
over a girl, leading him to ‘scale
down architecture to its smallest
and most vulnerable size, that
of a woman’s foot’. The story has
a happy ending; Koolhaas’s initial
designs were praised by Miuccia
Prada and Sergio Rossi before he
met Galahad Clark, a seventh-
generation shoemaker and mem-
ber of the Clarks dynasty, and
launched United Nude in 2003.
Since then, the brand has be-
come known for producing some
of the world’s most technically ad-
vanced footwear, with designs
that are instantly recognisable
thanks to their clarity, ele-
gance and innovation. Koolhaas
(not to be confused with his archi-
tect uncle Rem Koolhaas) studied
architecture at TU Delft (Techni-
cal University of Delft), and this
training is evident in his sculptur-
al shoes. ‘For each design I always
start from a very clear and basic
concept that is either a play
on space or on gravity, which can
be defned as an architectural ap-
proach,’ he concedes.
United Nude’s designs have al-
ways pushed boundaries in the
footwear feld, even from the
brand’s inception. ‘Back then,
shoes in general were rather bor-
ing, so we saw a good opportunity
for presenting diferent shoes with
a new story,’ Koolhaas explains.
Happily, the past 15 years have
seen the industry start to take more
risks, a development Koolhaas wel-
comes. ‘I think that the sharing
of information through the Inter-
net has led to this massive cross
fertilisation in all creative felds,
including shoes,’ he confrms.
‘We were one of the front runners
in breaking the box, and I think
we still are.’
A number of high-profle col-
laborations have helped United
Nude stay ahead of the crowd.
Koolhaas has worked with Dutch
designer Iris van Herpen on nine
consecutive Haute Couture cat-
walk shows, created a bespoke de-
sign for Lady Gaga’s Fame per-
fume launch (with 12-inch heels),
Above (from top): Rem D Koolhaas, creative director of United Nude; Nova shoe, the brand’s
collaboration with Zaha Hadid
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54 | FEATURES
For Koolhaas,
innovation will
always go far
beyond new colours
and materials
and teamed up with architect Zaha
Hadid to create the distinctive
Nova shoe. ‘We work with people
who bring new things to the table,’
says Koolhaas. ‘People who are dif-
ferent enough from us while being
compatible enough to gain strength
by joining forces, people with great
talent, and people we inspire and
who inspire us.’
For spring/summer 2015, the
brand is continuing to innovate
and has launched several new con-
cepts, including the abstracted Lo
Res range. The Lo Res Earth san-
dal looks set to be one of the shoes
of the season; a unisex design, the
shoe features an ergonomically
shaped footbed, which conforms
to the wearer’s foot, while its
rounded toe and cleated rubber
outsole lend a sport-luxe feel. Suc-
cesses from previous seasons have
also been reimagined for spring:
note the Jacky boot with its bold
geometric heel now available
in new materials and colours.
For Koolhaas, innovation will
always go far beyond new colours
and materials. The designer
is known for pioneering new man-
ufacturing techniques and his
championing of 3D printing
is a prime example. Even so, he be-
lieves it will be some time before
printed pumps become the norm.
‘In the near future 3D printing will
probably only function as a more
exclusive and niche production
method for small quantities, say
Above (clockwise from top lef): Lo Res Earth sandal; Jacky boot, both spring/summer 2015; the brand is championing 3D printing
56 | FEATURES
for a catwalk show or limited-edi-
tion design.’ United Nude’s next
3D-printing project will be pro-
duced alongside the industry’s
market leader, 3D Systems, and
will see fve famous architects and
designers create shoes to be shown
at Salone del Mobile in Milan.
A line of watches and the
Lo Res car are the two upcoming
initiatives that Koolhaas is most
excited about at the moment. The
designer is also looking to intro-
duce a new shop concept. United
Nude stores typically feature dark
décor with light installations pro-
viding movement, atmosphere and
a spotlight for the shoes; in future,
he hopes to create something a lit-
tle less extreme and a little more
practical to refect a wider
product ofering.
Despite these difusions, the
Möbius shoe remains the design
for which United Nude is known
and its frst success. It marked
a new era in footwear manufacture
and was the frst to blur borders be-
tween industrial design and fash-
ion. Its use of a single strip to form
the sole, heel, foot bed and upper
led to the invention of new con-
struction methods and new materi-
als. It remains Koolhaas’s favou-
rite. ‘It’s perhaps my most iconic
design, but, besides that, it is also
the shoe that made me change
my profession, started my career,
made me change where I lived.
In other words, this was not just
a shoe that I made – it was also the
shoe that made me.’
unitednude.com
Above (from top): MÖbius shoe; the brand’s collaboration with Iris van Herpen for Lady Gaga’s Fame perfume launch
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58 | EXPER IENCE
The Dutch Golden Age of the
17th century had an impact on ev-
ery part of life in Holland, includ-
ing what people ate. Trading ships
brought back spices, sugar and
other exotic ingredients, and the
country’s prosperous citizens de-
veloped a taste for lavish and rich-
ly varied meals – as shown in many
of the fabulous still life paintings
of the time. That willingness
to experiment, to embrace new
trends and to take a fresh look
at familiar dishes is still in evi-
dence today. Nowadays, the most
exciting chefs and restaurants are
pioneering creative uses of local
ingredients with an international
infuence, often in an equally in-
spired setting.
TABLE TALKFrom converted greenhouses to cooking
studios, the fne-dining experience
in Holland is nothing short of innovative.
Theresa Harold discovers that eating can
be a treat for all the senses
SHOP | 59
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This elegant gem in the smartest
part of Amsterdam is a culinary
treat for visiting foodies thanks to
chef Tommy den Hartog’s pas-
sion and creativity. Using the
highest quality products – most
of which have been sourced lo-
cally – den Hartog creates beauti-
ful dishes that never fail to im-
press, such as smoked eel with
beetroot sorbet, roast beetroot,
apple and foie gras.
Johannes,
Herengracht 413,
1017 BP Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 626 9503,
restaurantjohannes.nl
60 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
D E K A S
In 2001, well-regarded chef Gert
Jan Hageman stumbled upon
an old greenhouse belonging to
Amsterdam’s municipal nursery,
which was scheduled for demoli-
tion. Thanks to help from family
and friends, Hageman was able
to convert the stunning eight-
metre-high glass building, which
dates from 1926, into a thriving
restaurant and nursery. Using
herbs and vegetables grown
in the greenhouse and on the res-
taurant’s farmland, the chef cre-
ates a fxed menu based on the
daily harvest.
De Kas,
Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3,
1097 DE Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 462 4562,
restaurantdekas.nl
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SHOP | 61
F R E D
Fred Mustert is the head chef
of Michelin-starred Rotterdam
restaurant Fred. Sticking to the
‘less is more’ philosophy that has
proved so successful for Mustert,
Fred is an elegant dining space
with a menu of creative French
dishes. Everything, from the wine
list to the garnishes, has been
carefully considered and the re-
sult is a pleasing, unifed experi-
ence. Declaring that he is ‘not
a commercial cook’, Mustert hap-
pily invests in expensive ingredi-
ents in order to exceed his
guests’ expectations.
Fred,
Honingerdijk 263-265,
3063 AM Rotterdam,
+31 (0)10 212 0110,
restaurantfred.nl
D E C U L I N A I R E
W E R K P L A A T S
De Culinaire Werkplaats is a work-
shop, cooking studio and gallery that
ofers unique adventures in gastron-
omy. The menu uses inspirational
concepts to explore new tastes, tex-
tures and creative ways of eating and
drinking. For example, themes could
be as vague as ‘honesty’ or as specifc
as ‘fowers’. Keep an eye on the web-
site for hints regarding its upcoming
fve-course ‘eat’inspirations’.
De Culinaire Werkplaats,
Fannius Scholtenstraat 10,
1051 EX Amsterdam,
+31 (0)65 464 6576,
deculinairewerkplaats.nl
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Century Center, De Keyserlei 58, Antwerpen 2018
Geldmuntstraat 41, Brugge 8000
Grasmarkt 26, Brussels 1000
Voldersstraat 58, Gent 9000
Heiligeweg 39, Amsterdam 1012 XP
KIPLING OUTLETS BELGIUM & NETHERLANDS
Maasmechelen Outlet, Zetellaan 100 - UNIT 42, Maasmechelen 3630
Messancy Outlet, 199, Route d’Arlon, Messancy 6780
Roermond Outlet, Stadsweide 2, Roermond 6041 TD
64 | EXPER IENCE
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A dynamic city with an ever-changing skyline and
a fearless approach to reinvention, Rotterdam is an
ideal day-trip destination. This famous port town
ofers a wealth of shops, cultural attractions, festivals,
restaurants and parks. SHOP spends a day exploring
Rotterdam’s chic’s concept stores and tucking into
the city’s best burgers.
Ter Marsch & Co
A former butcher’s shop
is now one of the city’s best-
loved eateries. Appropriately,
its signature dishes are meat
based, whether it’s the juicy
rib-eye steaks from the in-
house dry-ageing cabinet
or Ter Marsch’s award-win-
ning Grande burger. Vege-
tarians are not left out: meat-
free dishes include the Dutch
salad, which combines goats’
cheese, beetroot and aspara-
gus with parmesan and
a poached egg.
PERFECT DAY: ROTTERDAM
Van Nelle Fabriek
Described as an ‘icon
of Dutch modernism’, and
a recent addition to the Unes-
co World Heritage list, the
Van Nelle factory used
to be known for its cofee, tea
and tobacco production, but
is now admired as an archi-
tectural masterpiece. Built in
the 1920s, the Van Nelle
building was years ahead
of its time thanks to its clever
use of space, light and air,
and the materials featured.
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globalblue.com
SHOP | 65
Groos
Vying for the title of Rotter-
dam’s most stylish concept
store, Groos brings together
a chic edit of fashion, music,
art and lifestyle products.
Named after an old Dutch
word meaning ‘pride’, the store
is so called because it sells only
local products and proudly
showcases the work of the
city’s most talented creatives.
Expect an original and tempt-
ing array of men’s and wom-
en’s clothing, alongside acces-
sories, food and homeware.
DIRECTORY
Van Nelle Fabriek,
Van Nelleweg 1,
3044 BC Rotterdam,
vannellefabriek.com
Ter Marsch & Co,
Witte de Withstraat 70,
3012 BS Rotterdam,
termarschco.nl
Groos,
Schiekade 203,
3013 BR Rotterdam,
+31 (0)10 414 5816,
groosrotterdam.nl
Delfshaven
For a glimpse of Rotterdam
as it was more than a century ago,
visit the picturesque neighbour-
hood of Delfshaven. Wander its
scenic streets, stopping of
at De Pelgrim, Rotterdam’s only
city brewery, and De Delft,
a painstaking reconstruction
of an 18th-century warship.
PH
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.NL
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66 | EXPER IENCE
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Gemeentemuseum
Designed by Dutch archi-
tect HP Berlage in the 1930s,
the Gemeentemuseum is
home to the world’s largest
Mondrian collection and is a
must for any art lover. Exhibi-
tions scheduled for this sum-
mer include Beautiful Hol-
land, which features paintings
by the Hague School that cap-
ture the country’s beautiful
yet changing landscapes.
The Hague combines all the amenities of an international
metropolis with the charm of a seaside resort town. Home
to the Dutch government and the royal family, the city
ofers an array of attractions, ranging from prestigious art
galleries to charming cafés. SHOP spends a day exploring
a selection of The Hague’s must-see sights.
PERFECT DAY: THE HAGUE
Bloem
Family-run Bloem is one
of The Hague’s most charm-
ing cafés. Prettily decorated
with antique foral paintings,
it’s the place to go for perfectly
made Italian cofee and show-
stopping cakes. Drop by for
a freshly made light lunch,
or treat yourself to a generous
slice of the lemon meringue
pie at teatime.
globalblue.com
SHOP | 67
Common Kin
Stocking everything from cool
Scandi designers to fashionable
streetwear brands, Common
Kin is known for its artfully cu-
rated menswear collections. The
store, with its minimalist white
interior featuring quirky card-
board shelving, has become a
magnet for style-conscious lo-
cals looking for anything from
an Alexander Wang T-shirt
to sunglasses from Sun Bunnies.
HanTing Cuisine
At his Michelin-starred res-
taurant, chef Han Ji produces
sumptuous fne-dining food
that’s also good for you. In-
spired by traditional Chinese
medicine and mindful eat-
ing, the Chinese Herbs menu
is designed to be perfectly
balanced in taste, presenta-
tion, texture, smell and its ef-
fect on the body. With dishes
including scallop and lan-
goustine with kumquat and
soy, and lamb with garlic,
Chinese seaweed and daikon,
you can be sure that it’s also
utterly delicious.
DIRECTORY
Bloem,
Korte Houtstraat 6,
2511 CD The Hague,
+31 (0)70 737 0589,
bloemdenhaag.nl
Gemeentemuseum,
Stadhouderslaan 41,
2517 HV The Hague,
+31 (0)70 338 1111,
gemeentemuseum.nl
HanTing Cuisine,
Prinsestraat 33,
2513 CA The Hague,
+31 (0)70 362 0828,
hantingcuisine.nl
Common Kin,
Papestraat 22,
2513 AW The Hague,
+31 (0)70 767 0092,
commonkin.com
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GUIDE
GUIDE | 69
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most
of your trip to Holland with a look at the country’s
must-visit destinations, from the best cafés to the
coolest boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations
before delving deeper with expert guidance from
our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and
detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/holland.
Above: Amsterdam’s many canals are a defning feature of the city
PH
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A GLIMPSE OF AMSTERDAM
70 | GUIDE
globalblue.com
SNAPSHOTS
OF A CITY
‘Amsterdam offers
a combination of historic
charm with avant-garde
artistic flair, and a visit
is always inspiring’ –
Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s
picture editor
PH
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; GR
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; DIO
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ÈN
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SHOP | 71
Follow our
team’s travels on
@shopcontent.
Tag us in your city
pictures when
sharing them and
you might see
them in print!
72 | GUIDE
AMSTERDAM
LEIDS
ES
TRAAT
OVERTOOM
VONDELSTRAAT
MA
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TR
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SIN
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RO
KIN
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NB
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GR
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WILLEMSPARKWEG
NA
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AU
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DE
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HO UDERSK ADE
PR
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EN
GR
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PRINSENGR ACHT
MA
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TR
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WETER
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SC
HA
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DA COSTAK ADE
ROZENGRACHT
R AADHUISSTRA
AT
REESTR A AT
ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM
NEW CHURCHAMSTERDAM
ANNE FRANKHOUSE
NATIONAL MONUMENT
AMSTERDAM MUSEUM
ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM
AMSTERDAM THEATRE
PARADISO
VONDELPARK
THE RIJKSMUSEUM
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
THE STEDELIJK MUSEUMTHE NETHERLANDS
FILM MUSEUM
HEINEKENEXPERIENCE
MUSEUM
CONCERT HALL
FLOWERMARKET
DIAMONDMUSEUM
AMSTERDAM
HOUSE OF BOLS
MADAME TUSSAUDS
ZAZARE DIAMONDS
THE AMSTERDAM DUNGEON
AMSTERDAMBODY WORLDS
Suzy Wong
Supperclub
Jimmy Woo
Melk Weg
Litle Buddha
Nomads
Bo Cing
Place Of Interest
Tourist Information
Restaurant
Bar
page
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SHOP | 73
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UR
ITSK ADE
UT
RE
CH
TS
ES
TR
AA
T
V
AN
WO
US
TR
AA
T
SA RPHATISTR A AT
S
ARPHATISTRA AT
BEURS VAN BERLAGEAMSTERDAM
GASSAN DIAMONDS FACTORY
THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM
JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM
HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM
THEATRE CARRÉ
PASSENGER TERMINAL AMSTERDAM
MUZIEK GEBOUW AAN 'T IJ
CITY HALL & OPERA
NEMO
SCHEEPSVAARTMUSEUM
TROPENMUSEUM
HORTUS BOTANICUS
ARTIS
TOURS & TICKETS
CENTRALUNDERGROUND STATION
AMSTERDAMCENTRAL STATION
Sea Palace
Club Air
Skylounge
Train Station Underground Station
page
76
74 | GUIDE
MOMO
Momo is one of Amsterdam’s
foremost culinary hotspots,
known and loved for its Asian
fusion dishes, glamorous set-
ting and excellent cocktails.
Now, Momo’s owner Yossi Eli-
yahoo and executive chef Har-
iprasad Shetty have launched
the Momo Lifestyle Book, the
ultimate cofee-table book and
collector’s item, which is avail-
able to buy at the restaurant.
Featuring photography by Dan
Perez, the book includes plenty
of pictures of Momo’s mouth-
watering signature dishes
and chic interior, alongside in-
terviews with the people who
work behind the scenes and in-
sights into the success of one of
the city’s best known gastro-
nomic destinations.
Momo,
Hobbemastraat 1,
1071 XZ Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 671 7474,
momo-amsterdam.com
* for map go to page 86
PH
OTO
: DA
N P
ER
EZ
/DA
NP.
CO
.IL
globalblue.com
76 | GUIDE
Damrak, Dam & Rokin
SIN
GE
L
DAM
PALEISSTR A AT DAMSTRAAT
S
ING
EL
SINT NICOLAASSTRAAT
R
OK
I N
R
OK
IN
N
IEU
WE
ZIJ
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VO
OR
RB
UR
GW
AL
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S A
CH
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RB
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GW
AL
DA
MR
AK
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AM
RA
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D
AM
RA
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TU
RFMA
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WARM
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NE
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K
LOV
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SB
UR
GW
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UW
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OO
RR
BU
RG
WA
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TAKSTEEG
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HA
LVE
MA
AN
SB
RU
G
OU
DE
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VO
OR
BU
RG
WA
L
S
PU
ISR
AA
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SP
UIS
RA
AT
SP
UIS
RA
AT
SING
EL
RO
KIN
AMSTERDAM EXPERIENCE ●SUPERMARKT ●
TOURS AND TICKETS ●
BIG BAZAR ●
TOURS AND TICKETS ●OPTIONS ●
TULIP HOUSE ●ETNIES ●
DRAKE'S ●SUBZERO ●
CHOCOLATERIE NELISSEN●
TULIP HOUSE ●
C&A ●
JANSEN & JANSEN ●
DELIFRANCE ●DE WAAL ●
H&M ●SWAROVSKI ●
MEDIEVAL TORTURE MUSEUM
De Bijenkor f
Peek & Cloppenburg
MADAME TUSSAUDS
THE AMSTERDAMDUNGEON
ALLARD PIERSON
MUSEUM
Stock Fresh Coffee & Sandwiches
PAPILLON DANCE CLOTHES ●
● GASSAN DAM SQUARE● OPEN SHOP● BETSY PALMER SHOES● SENZA
E.N.R.G ●SOUVENIRS ●MANDARIJN ●MANGO ●URBAN OUTFITTERS ●JAN JANSEN ●SHARP GEAR ●SHOP ROKIN ●HARRY TROMP ●SOUVENIRS ●BELCOMPANY ●KPN ●CAVE ROKIN ●DUTCH FOODGIFT ●DOUGLAS ●J.M. SCHMIDT OPTIEK ●
WEEKDAY ●P.G.C. HAJENIUS CIGARS ●
PREMSELA & HAMBURGER ●
● SVNRS
● 100% HOLLAND
● DAM SQUARE SOUVENIRS
G-STAR ●
BOFB ●
MATHIEU HART ANTIQUITIES ●
HOGENDOORN & KAUFMAN●
AGNÈS B ●
WINKEL BRILLEN ●
CLAUDIA STRÄTER ●
GIFTS XXX ●
V&D ●
● THE MILL DIAMONDS
Magna Plaza
● PARFUMERIE MARJO
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Tourist Information
Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store Place Of Interest
Café
Featured In This Issue
P.24
78 | GUIDE
Heiligeweg
H
EILIGEWEG
SIN
GE
L
SINGEL
KA
LV
ER
ST
RA
AT
SID
ES
TE
P
FOO
TW
EA
R ●
DU
NG
ELM
AN
N ●
YO
RK
OP
TIEK
●
SE
AC
RE
T ●
YV
ES
RO
CH
ER
●
SEIK
O ●
IJSC
UY
PJE ●
DIV
A ●
L’OC
CITA
NE ●
& O
TH
ER
STO
RE
S ●
SO
UV
EN
IRS
●
MA
KE U
P ST
UD
IO ●
SC
OTC
H &
SO
DA
●
TH
E EN
GLIS
H
HA
TT
ER
●
INS
PIR
ED
BY
FAS
HIO
N ●
MA
G B
AG
●
PU
MA
●
● LY
PP
EN
S &
SC
HIP
PE
R
● M
.A.C
.
● L'É
TOILE D
E SA
INT H
ON
OR
É
● IC
E WA
TCH
● D
IES
EL
● E
XP
RE
SS
O
● S
TAT
E OF A
RT
● K
IPLIN
G
● U
NO
DE 5
0
● V
AN
LIER
● A
LLSA
INT
S
● K
IEH
L’S
● S
AB
ON
● H&M
● N
YC C
OLLEC
TION
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue Café
BAR ITALIA
Housed within an historic
building, Bar Italia is part res-
taurant, part café, part espresso
bar, which all helps
to make it as popular in the
daytime as it is after dark.
Enjoy light bites such
as smashed avocado on toast,
pancakes and burgers in the
café, or opt for authentic Italian
dishes from the restaurant
menu, including pizza, mush-
room risotto and tagliatelle
with lamb ragu. There’s also
a great selection of classic cock-
tails and DJ sets several nights
a week.
Bar Italia, Rokin 81-83,
1012 KL Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 620 2442,
bar-italia.nl
* for map go to page 80
PH
OT
O: I
VO
DE
BR
UIJ
N
P.39
Шоппинг на 16% выгоднее, когда вы совершаете покупки с Tax Free
Получите карту Global Blue,
наслаждайтесь путешествиями и
шоппингом в лучших магазинах,
экономя при этом до 16%
от стоимости ваших покупок
globalblue.ru/join
80 | GUIDE
Kalverstraat, Spui & Sint Luciensteeg
SPUI
NES
SINT LUCIEN
STEEG
ROKIN
SINGEL
GRIMB URGWAL
NIEUWEZIJDSVOORBURGWAL
KALVERSTRAAT
KALVERSTRAAT
ROKIN
KALVERSTRAAT
WATERSTONES ●
ALYSSA, 1 S ●
LOST B ●
VILA ●
SNEAKERS ●
HUNKEMÖLLER ●
VANS ●
MANFIELD ●
H.E. BY MANGO●
MONKI ●
SUPER DRY STORE ●
AKTIE SPORT ●
MISS SIXTY/ ENERGIE ●
LYPPENS &
SCHIPPER ●
SIX ●
THE LEATHER CLUB ●
FOSSIL ●
PIECES ●
H&M ●
MANFIELD ●
GEOX ●
HEMA BEAUTY ●
SISSY BOY ●
KALVERTOREN ●
SWATCH ●
AMERICAN TODAY ●
MARKS & SPENCER ●
ROXY ●
XENOS ●
ROYAL DELFT
● EXPERIENCE
● CAMPER
● DE TUINEN
● PRO
● KPN
● TIMBERLAND
● SKECHERS
● THE BODY SHOP
● SACHA
● BOOTS SHOES
● REUTER DIAMONDS
● LEVI’S
● VERO MODA
● VODAFONE
● INVITO
● CINDERELLA
● CLAUDIA STRÄTER
● NIKE AMSTERDAM
● ICI PARIS XL
● BART SMIT
● BAKKER BART
● SCAMM
● V&D
NEW ENGLISH
● BOOKSTORE
SIDESTEP ●Outmeyer Coffee Corner
Café Luna
CHRISTINE LEDUC ●
● KODAK
SOUVENIRS ●CLARKS ●
FRONT RUNNER ●
HI AMSTERDAM ●PEPE JEANS ●
SABON ●
LUSH ●FOOTLOCKER ●
ECCO ●COSTES ●
H&M ●LEDER PALEIS ●
VAN HAREN ●CROCS ●
DESIGUAL ●FOOT LOCKER ●
THE PHONE HOUSE ●O'NEILL ●SCORE ●
FLOMAR ●
ESPRIT ●
● BERSHKA
● DOUGLAS
● RITUALS
● WE
PERRY SPORT● + OUTDOOR
● STORE FOR BRANDS● KIDS FOOT LOCKER
CHEESE AND MORE ● BY HENRI WILLIG
● STEPS DRESSES● TAFT SHOES
● SWAROVSKI● MORGAN
● DOLCIS● SIEBEL
● H&M
FR
ED
DE
LA
BR
ET
ON
IER
E ●
LUC
IE'S
●
PA
LB
O ●
● L
AU
ND
RY
IND
US
TR
IES
● T
UR
QU
AZ
E C
ITY
BV
Bar Italia
P.82
P.78
Restaurant
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Café
Featured In This Issue
Open 7 days a week
Behind the royal palace
www.magnaplaza.nl
magna plaza amsterdam
82 | GUIDE
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Kalverstraat North
NE
S
NIE
UW
EZ
IJDS
VO
OR
BU
RG
WA
L
K
ALV
ER
ST
RA
AT
KA
LVE
RS
TR
AA
TPALEISSTRAAT
DAM
DAM
RO
KIN
● TRÉSOR
● FRONT RUNNER
● BJÖRN BORG
● POP CULT
● FOREVER 21
● PULL & BEAR
● PIECES
● MANFIELD
● VILA
● URBAN OUTFITTERS
● MANGO
● JAMIN
● BLOKKER
● PRO 02 0
● MCDONALDS
● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR
● CITY DIAMONDS
● SUPERSTAR
RALPH LAUREN ● DENIM & SUPPLY
● SIX
● BIJOU BRIGITTE
THE STING ●
DESIGUAL ●
DE TUINEN ●
STEVE MADDEN ●
PIMKIE ●
COOL CAT ●
SACHA ●
RIVER ISLAND ●
CHASIN’ ●
BAZAR ●
SABON ●
SCORE ●
CLAIRE’S ●
TOPSHOP ●
GEOX ●
DIDI ●
STEPS ●
ZARA ●
Peek & Cloppenburg
Department Store
RITUALS
Dutch cosmetics brand Rituals
produces luxurious beauty and
home products designed to make
everyday moments more special.
Inspired by ancient Eastern tra-
ditions, Rituals’ ranges have de-
lighted beauty enthusiasts the
world over, and more than 350
international stores have opened
since the Amsterdam fagship
was founded in 2000. New for
spring/summer, the Tao collec-
tion focuses on perfecting the
balance of yin and yang, with
massage oils, body scrubs, bath
foams, fragrance sticks and
more. Featuring calming white
lotus, refreshing Chinese mint
and soothing yi yi ren, the prod-
ucts are designed to induce peace
and tranquility.
Rituals,
Kalverstraat 73,
1012 NZ Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 344 9220,
rituals.com
* for map go to page 80
Purmerend
Haarlem
Zaandam
Schiphol
Amsterdam
Zaanse Schans
FREE ENTRANCE • FREE DEMONSTRATION • FREE MUSEUM
Wooden Shoes, how are they made?
Wooden shoes have been worn in Holland for more than a 1000
years and not only are they still being worn today, but over a million
pairs are still made and sold each year. A unique collection of clogs
is on display in our Clog Museum, giving additional insight into the
historical tradition of this fascinating footwear. Visit our Workshop
for a demonstration, try some on, take photo’s and browse around.
What a great way to experience historic Holland!
Wooden Shoe Workshop ’De Zaanse Schans’ www.clogs.nl • [email protected]
Find out at the Wooden Shoe Workshop
Discover Holland, visit windmill village the Zaanse Schans
Transport from AmsterdamBy train: From Amsterdam Central Station take the train to Uitgeest
as far as Koog-Zaandijk Station and follow the signs to the Zaanse
Schans. It will take approximately 10 minutes to walk from the station
to the Zaanse Schans.
By car: From Amsterdam ring road A10 in the direction of Zaanstad.
Exit A8 direction Zaandam and then A7, direction Purmerend. Take
the f rst exit and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans.
By bus: There is a bus service (bus 391) from Amsterdam (located in
front of Amsterdam Central Station) direct to the Zaanse Schans.
84 | GUIDE
The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes W
AX
WELL R
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D ●
PR
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EN
GR
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PR
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RUNSTR A AT HUIDENSTR A AT WIJDE HEISTEEG
REESTR A AT HARTENSTR A AT GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG
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Bagels & BeansConser vatorium Hotel
THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM
SELECTED STORES IN
CONSERVATORIUM
HOTEL:
BONEBAKKER
CULTI
HARTMAN EN HARTMAN
LA CASA DEL HABANO
SKINS COSMETICS
Place Of InterestHotel
86 | GUIDE
PC Hooftstraat
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90 | GUIDE
ROTTERDAM
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The Manhatan Hotel
Grand Hotel Central
Happy Sushi
CINEMA PATHÉ
SCHAAP& CITROEN
Place Of Interest
Restaurant
Tourist Information
Hotel
SHOP | 91
THE HAGUE
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globalblue.com
globalblue.com
92 | GUIDE
DESIGNER OUTLET ROERMOND
10am
The clothing collections
at Daniel Hechter are ideal
for those with an active lifestyle.
2pm
Baldinini enjoys a prestigious
reputation for its shoes and
leather goods.
5pm
Pick up a pair of classic
American jeans at
True Religion.
7pm
Alongside its famed Swiss
Army knives, Victorinox
ofers a range of cutlery,
watches and fragrances.
Designer Outlet Roermond,
Stadsweide 2,
6041 TD Roermond,
+31 (0)475 351777,
designer-outlet-roermond.com,
mcarthurglen.com
Opening times
Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm
Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm
HOW TO GET THERE
By car
From Maastricht take
the A73 to exit 19 for
Roermond. Follow
the signs to Roermond
and then to the
Designer Outlet.
From Eindhoven take
the Dutch A2 to exit 40
for Roermond. Follow
the signs to Roermond
(N280) and then to the
Designer Outlet.
By train
Roermond is two hours
by direct train from
Amsterdam Centraal
station, with departures
every 30 minutes.
Designer Outlet
Roermond is 15 minutes
walk from Roermond
station. When you
leave the station, cross
Stationsplein and follow
the signs to Designer
Outlet Roermond. For
train times and ticket
prices, please visit ns.nl.
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE
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100Lihat halaman 104 untuk terjemahan artikel ini
93
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94
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
TRANSLATIONS
Кейт Мур рассказывает о
голландских модельерах,
для которых практичность и
непринужденность одежды – не
повод забывать об элегантности.
Концептуальная, инновационная,
непредвзятая и практичная – именно
так можно описать голландскую
индустрию моды. Начиная с
середины 1990-х годов местные
бренды прет-а-порте, включая
SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Claudia
Sträter и Viktor & Rolf начали
активную экспансию на европейские
рынки. Сегодня Нидерланды
превращаются в одну из ведущих
стран Европы со стремительно
развивающейся индустрией моды,
что не удивительно – помимо двух
международных академий дизайна
в Эйндховене и Арнеме, здесь
проводится большое число выставок
и шоу-показов, таких как Arnhem
Mode Biennale и Dutch Fashion
Awards.
В последние годы на фоне
остальных заметно выделяется
марка SuperTrash, занимающая
промежуточную позицию между
общедоступными и люксовыми
брендами. Ее стильные коллекции
включают практически все: от
роскошного трикотажа и элегантных
туфель на высоком каблуке до
платьев с принтами и джинсовой
одежды. «В цифровую эпоху мода
доступна каждому, но это не значит,
что каждому она по карману,
– поясняет Олджай Гюльсен,
основательница бренда. – Я надеюсь,
что SuperTrash исправляет эту
ситуацию и делает моду доступной
для большего числа женщин».
В тот момент, когда бренду
исполнилось 10 лет, его коллекции
уже регулярно выставлялись
на показах Амстердамской
Недели моды, а продукция была
представлена в более чем 2000
бутиках по всему миру, включая
фирменные магазины марки.
Коллекция сезона весна-лето 2015
вобрала в себя элементы уличной
моды и городского шика. «Здесь нет
ограничений и нет строгих правил», –
говорит Гюльсен. Забавные и в то же
время элегантные силуэты присущи
всем вещам: от драпированных
платьев и деконструктивных
пиджаков до женственных юбок с
баской в спортивном стиле. Особого
внимания заслуживает кожаная
юбка с бахромой «Stella». «Ее
можно комбинировать с вязаным
свитером или туфлями на шпильках
и блестящим топом на вечер», –
советует Гюльсен.
Сочетание нарядной и
повседневной одежды отсылает
нас к голландскому чувству стиля.
«Мне кажется нидерландки очень
практичны в выборе одежды, –
говорит Гюльсен. – Это не значит, что
44: Efortless Cool
äилософия Элегантности
95
мы предпочитаем комфорт стилю,
просто мы знаем, как соединить и
то и другое в один стильный образ».
Эмили Германс, дизайнер
популярного бренда женской
одежды MLY, не жалеет эпитетов,
описывая голландскую моду:
«комфортная, новаторская,
уникальная и слегка авангардная».
Первое, что бросается в глаза при
взгляде на коллекции MLY – это
оригинальная ткань, зачастую
разработанная самой Германс
и состоящая из экологически
чистой пряжи и биоразлагаемых
волокон – дизайнер известна своей
тягой ко всему натуральному. В
дизайне одежды Германс делает
ставку на яркие оттенки и смелые
принты. «Девушка MLY – это
яркая личность, которая не хочет
оставаться незамеченной, –
утверждает дизайнер. – Она любит
графические принты и ценит
хорошее качество».
Желание создавать свою
ткань пришло к Германс во
время обучения в амстердамском
институте моды (AMFI). «У нас
был предмет "Дизайн текстиля", на
котором нам требовалось создать
свою собственную ткань с нуля,
– поясняет она. – С того момента
вязание стало моей страстью». В
коллекции сезона весна-лето 2015
дизайнер решила использовать
тематику, палитру и силуэты из
своих предыдущих коллекций,
чтобы создать дайджест своего
творчества. Ее многогранная и
контрастная коллекция объединила
элементы уличного стиля и
элегантной моды, слегка грубоватые
силуэты и изящные детали,
красочные графические принты и
природные узоры.
Несмотря на такое разнообразие
коллекциям MLY свойственна
типично голландская эстетика:
абсолютный комфорт с легкой
ноткой интриги. Стоит также
отметить, что все коллекции бренда
практически полностью создаются
на территории Нидерландов.
«Основные производственные
процессы осуществляются здесь,
– подтверждает Германс. – Забота
об окружающей среде является
для нас одной из приоритетных
задач, как и поддержка местной
инфраструктуры».
Марка Claudia Sträter недавно
была признана одним из самых
узнаваемых брендов женской одежды
в стране. Вряд ли во всей Голландии
найдется компания, которой бы
удалось с такой же легкостью
интерпретировать международные
тренды, адаптируя их к местным
реалиям, а безупречное качество
изделий и акцент на практичности
приходится по вкусу деловым
женщинам, ведущим активный
образ жизни. Коллекциям бренда
свойственна непреходящая
чувственность, утонченный
крой и элегантные линии: легко
сочетающиеся комбинации, платья с
принтами, а также непринужденные
костюмы приятных оттенков.
Акцент на практичности и
универсальности без ущерба
эстетике может объяснить тот факт,
почему нидерландские модные
бренды столь популярны в Европе
и за ее пределами. Нет сомнения
в том, что творения голландских
законодателей моды, от стильных
globalblue.com
96
комбинаций Claudia Sträter до
роскошных нарядов SuperTrash,
смогут занять достойное место в
гардеробе любой модницы. Если
модельеры продолжат развитие
индустрии в том же направлении,
нидерландская мода, не имеющая
границ и не идущая на компромиссы,
в скором времени сможет легко
покорить мир.
supertrash.com, mly.nl,
claudiastrater.com
50: Leading The Way
Впереди Всех
Обувной бренд United Nude,
возглавляемый Ремом Д Колхасом,
расширяет границы стиля и
производства. Верити Хоган узнает
подробности прошлого, настоящего
и будущего марки
История успеха United Nude
началась как в одной из сказок, – с
романтического приключения.
Креативный директор и
соучредитель обувной компании Рем
Д Колхас учился на архитектора, пока
возлюбленная не разбила ему сердце.
После этого он решил «покончить
с идеей проектирования зданий и
занялся проектированием женской
обуви». Как и любую сказку, эту
историю ждал счастливый конец.
Работами Колхаса заинтересовались
модельеры Миучча Прада и
Серджио Росси, а немногим позже он
познакомился с Галахадом Кларком,
наследником знаменитой обувной
династии Clarks, вместе с которым
основал United Nude в 2003 году.
С тех пор бренд производит
знаменитую на весь мир обувь,
отличающуюся простым, элегантным
и инновационным дизайном. Колхас
(не путать с его дядей архитектором
Ремом Колхасом) изучал
архитектуру в политехническом
университете Делфта TU Delf,
что не могло не отразиться на его
творчестве. «Дизайн новых моделей
я привык начинать с четкой и
ясной концепции, отражающей
определенную архитектурную
форму», – признает он.
С момента появления United
Nude, дизайнеры постоянно
расширяли границы возможного в
обувной сфере. «В то время обувь
была довольно скучной, осознав
это, мы решили не упускать шанс
и поделится с миром нашими
идеями», – поясняет Колхас. К
счастью, последние 15 лет принесли
в индустрию немало открытий и
революционных изменений. «Мне
кажется, что возможность быстро
обмениваться информацией через
интернет привела к буму во всех
креативных областях, включая
обувную индустрию, – считает
он. – Мы были в числе первых
производителей, решившихся
мыслить нестандартно, и я считаю,
что нашу позицию мы не утратили».
Ряд нашумевших коллабораций
помог бренду United Nude
выделиться из толпы. Среди главных
достижений Колхаса – совместная
работа с голландским дизайнером
Ирисом Ван Херпеном над девятью
коллекциями Haute Couture, создание
эксклюзивных туфель на шпильке 30
сантиметров для презентации нового
парфюма от Леди Гаги, а также
сотрудничество с архитектором
äаха Хадидом над дизайном туфель
97
Nova. «Мы работаем с теми людьми,
которые могут принести что-то
новое в нашу работу и дополнить
ее, – говорит Колхас, – людьми
с оригинальным мышлением и
идеями, людьми с большим талантом,
теми, кого мы вдохновляем и кто
вдохновляет нас».
В сезоне весна-лето 2015 бренд
продолжил радовать поклонников
инновациями, выпустив несколько
новых концептуальных моделей,
включая серию Lo Res. Сандалии
Lo Res Earth имеют все шансы
стать хитом этого сезона. Эта
обувь отличается универсальным
дизайном, обтекающей ногу
эргономичной подошвой, а также
закругленным носком и рифленой
резиновой подошвой в стиле спорт-
люкс. Популярные модели прошлого
сезона были переосмыслены и
также представлены в новой
весенней коллекции: туфли Jacky с
каблуком геометрической формы
теперь доступны в новых цветах и
материалах.
В понимании Колхаса понятие
инновация не ограничивается
новым материалом или цветом.
Дизайнер известен своей тягой
к передовым технологиям
производства, и 3D принтеры
один из ярких тому примеров. Тем
не менее, он сомневается, что эра
«напечатанной» обуви уже не за
горами. «В ближайшем будущем
3D принтеры, скорее всего, будут
применяться лишь частично для
создания небольших эксклюзивных
коллекций». Следующий проект
United Nude будет реализован
в сотрудничестве с лидером
индустрии 3D печати – компанией
3D Systems, а также пятью ведущими
архитекторами и дизайнерами.
Полученный результат будет
представлен на выставке Salone del
Mobile в Милане.
В планы дизайнера также входит
выпуск серии часов и машин Lo Res.
Кроме того, в скором времени будет
представлена новая концепция
фирменного магазина. Для бутиков
United Nude характерен темный
интерьер с индивидуальной
подсветкой для каждой пары обуви.
В будущем Колхас планирует сделать
его менее радикальным, более
практичным и подходящим для
расширяющегося ассортимента.
Несмотря на обилие успешных
проектов, самым главным
бестселлером бренда продолжают
оставаться босоножки Möbius. Они
ознаменовали собой новую эру
обувной индустрии, размыв границы
между индустриальным дизайном
и модой. Использование сплошной
пластины, соединившей подошву,
верх и каблук в одно целое, привело
к открытию новых техник и новых
материалов. Это любимая модель
Колхаса. «Пожалуй, это одно из
ключевых моих творений. Именно
ему я обязан своей профессией,
карьерой и местом жительства.
Другими словами – это не просто
обувь, которую я создал, но это также
обувь, которая создала меня».
unitednude.com
93: When You Shop The World,
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совершайте их с Tax Free
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping
globalblue.com
98
荷兰女装设计师们崇尚实用美学,创造出
44: Efortless Cool
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покупках, совершенных в около
270,000 магазинах, расположенных
в самых лучших шоппинг районах
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Так почему бы не присоединиться к
26 миллионам путешественников,
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с Global Blue каждый год? Просто
найдите голубую звезду или
спросите о Global Blue и следуйте
нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазине
Где бы вы ни совершали покупки,
попросите Tax Free форму Global
Blue и сохраните чеки.
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Возвращаясь домой, в пункте
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комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
不失个性的休闲风格,吸引了来自国际的目
光,Kate Moore带您探索
荷兰时装常被形容为充满概念性、创新性、
开放且务实。这些令人称道的特点也意味
着,自1990年代中叶起,该国成衣品牌已开
始越来越多地引起国际关注,这股风潮由
SuperTrash、Scotch & Soda、Claudia
Sträter与Viktor & Rolf等品牌领衔。作为
全球最负盛名的两所时装院校——分别在
埃因霍温和阿纳姆——的所在地,并拥有阿
姆斯特丹国际时装周、阿纳姆时尚双年展和
荷兰时尚大奖等各项盛事,荷兰正迅速成为
欧洲领先的女装设计国度之一。
占据高街时尚与奢侈品之间的市场空
档,SuperTrash是荷兰近年来涌现的翘楚
品牌之一。品牌摩登的产品系列包含奢华针
织、气场高跟鞋、印花连衣裙与牛仔基本款
等。“在数字时代,时尚是向所有人开放的,
但这并不意味着人人都能担负得起,”品牌
所有者Olcay Gulsen解释道。“我希望Su-
perTrash能缩短这一差距,让时尚照进更多
女性的现实。”
这个最近迎来十周年纪念的品牌,时常
在阿姆斯特丹时装周上进行发布,在全球
2000多家精品店中有售,并拥有自己的品牌
专卖店。在2015年春夏,品牌展示的是“街
头时尚与都会风尚的融合——这里欢迎任
何人,期待任何事”,Gulsen表示。廓型设计
俏皮又冷艳,单品则包括褶皱连衣裙,解构
风格功能夹克,以及带有运动细节的女性化
郁金香裙。其中名为Stella的流苏皮裙脱颖
而出。“低调的搭配方法是将其与针织毛衣
组合,夜间穿着则可以搭配高跟鞋与金属元
素上衣,”Gulsen建议道。
SuperTrash将气场单品与实穿基本
款搭配在一起,体现了荷兰式的时尚品
味。“我觉得荷兰女性在穿着上非常讲求实
用,”Gulsen表示。“这并不意味着我们相较
时髦更爱舒适;我们只是比较擅长将两者融
合打造时尚造型。”
新兴女装品牌MLY的幕后推手,设计
师Emily Hermans深表赞同,她将荷兰时
装描述为“耐穿、善用创新技术、拥有独特侧
99
supertrash.com, mly.nl,
claudiastrater.com
重与理念”。MLY的服饰以独特面料而独树
一帜,这些面料许多是由Emily Hermans
亲自研发的,包括生态认证纱线和天然可生
物降解纤维:设计师以她的艺术触觉而著
称。成果就是一系列拥有强烈大胆印花的设
计系列。“典型的MLY拥趸都拥有丰富多彩
的人生,喜欢引起人们的注意,”Hermans
承认。“她们热爱印花设计也重视品质。”
设 计 师 在 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 设 计 学 院
(AMFI)学习期间,就对自行研发面料
十分热衷。“有门课叫做纺织物造型,我们
不得不从零开始创造自己的面料,”她解释
说。“从此我对织物产生了巨大热情。”在她
的2015年春夏系列中,设计师反思过往,从
之前作品中选取出不同的主题、图案、颜色
与轮廓,创造出一组千变万化的时尚拼贴。
最终成果是一个具有多面性的系列,同时带
有优雅风格与街头元素,包括装饰精致细节
的坚固廓型,色彩斑斓的几何图案与更为有
机的设计。
除去这份多元,MLY的整体美学还是
典型的荷兰风格:不造作与实穿的基础上,
平添几分个性使其更为有趣。品牌不仅在
理念上深植本土,其产品更几乎全在荷兰
生产。“生产过程中的主体部分都在这里进
行,”Hermans证实。“我们讲求环保,非常
强调就近选取技术和工厂。”
拥有几乎全荷兰班底的团队,Claudia
Sträter正成为该国最具认知度的女装品牌
之一。品牌善于将国际潮流介绍给荷兰观
众,同时其一贯的高品质与对功能性的关
注,吸引着拥有忙碌、积极生活的女性。品
牌设计风格隽永,裁剪干净,线条优雅:包
括极易搭配的单品、印花通勤连衣裙与配色
极具魅力的休闲西服。
在注重实穿与多功能性的同时不失时
尚,或许就是荷兰时装品牌持续在欧洲与世
界其他地区走俏的原因。从Claudia Sträter
的时髦单品,到SuperTrash的奢华基本款,
荷兰设计师奉上提亮大众衣橱的作品。随
着接力棒传递到下一代设计师手中——他
们将肩负继承发扬这一美学并将其推向极
致的使命——荷兰时尚进军国际的步伐势
将延续。
Rem D Koolhaas的鞋履品牌United
Nude继续创新鞋品设计与制造。Ver it y
Hogan独家访问,为您讲述品牌的过去、现
在和未来
United Nude传奇般的成功故事始于一
个浪漫的遗憾。United Nude品牌创意总
监及创始人Rem D Koolhaas在念建筑
系的时候被一位女孩伤透了心,这件伤心
往事让他移情别恋,“将建筑美学精缩于女
性纤巧的鞋品”。这个故事最终有一个美好
的结局,Koolhaas的首个设计为Miuccia
Prada 和Sergio Rossi所赏识。之后,他
遇到了Clarks家族的第七代传人Galahad
Clark,并与之一起在2003年创建了Unit-
ed Nude。
从那之后,该品牌生产出集优雅与创
意,时尚与舒适为一体的创新鞋履,并逐步
广为人知。Koolhaas在荷兰代夫特科技大
学学习建筑(不要将他同与他同名的建筑
师叔叔相混淆),他所设计鞋履外观也处处
体现着建筑学的理念。“每一双鞋子的设计
都始于非常简单的概念,或是空间概念,或
与地球引力相关,这其实也是建筑的设计方
法,”他说道。
United Nude从品牌创立之初便一直
在拓展鞋品设计的新疆界。“当时鞋子的造
型普遍枯燥乏味,我们从中看到了开创鞋履
新世界的机会,”他解释道。让人高兴的是,
在过去的十五年间,业界进行了多种尝试和
拓展,Koolhaas对这种探索非常赞赏。“
我认为互联网促进了信息共享,使得各个创
意领域交叉影响,鞋品设计也不例外,”他说
道。“我们曾是打破框架的领跑者,我想我
们现在依然是。”
诸多的高端合作让United Nude处在
行业前列。Koolhaas曾与荷兰设计师Iris
van Herpen连续合作了九次高定时装秀,
50: Leading The Way
捷足先登
globalblue.com
100
我设计的一双鞋,它也成就了现在的我。”
unitednude.com
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店
消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税
服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物
开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球
蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能
错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询
商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服
务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过程:
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93: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
Para perancang pakaian wanita di Be-
landa telah berhasil menciptakan estetika
yang layak sandang, yang menawarkan
kemudahan tanpa mengurangi mutu,
44: Efortless Cool
Keren Tanpa Repot
TERJEMAHAN BAHASA
INDONESIA
为Lady Gaga的Fame香水发布会专门定
制了一双12英寸的“恨天高”。他也曾与建
筑师Zaha Hadid合作,设计了著名的Nova
鞋。“我们喜欢与有着奇思异想的人合作,他
们才华横溢,将不同的想法带进来。我们相
异但不相斥,互相给予启发和灵感。”
在2015年春夏鞋品的设计中,该品牌已
经推出几个新的设计概念,其中就包括抽象
的Lo Res系列。Lo Res“大地”凉鞋似乎将
成为这一季的主推鞋品,中性的设计,符合
人体工程学的鞋床,加上圆润的鞋头以及借
鉴奢华运动鞋所使用的防滑鞋底,整个设计
为穿戴者提供完美的舒适感受。前几季的成
功元素也运用到这季新品中,比如Jacky靴
的几何粗跟在变换了色彩和材质之后重新呈
现在新品鞋履中。
对Koolhaas而言,创新不仅仅局限在
颜色和材料方面。他擅长开创新的制鞋技
术,他所推崇的3D打印技术便是最好的例
子。即便如此,他认为3D打印技术不会马
上为人们普遍运用。“在不久的将来,3D打
印产品仍将是针对小众客户的定制类利基
产品,比如说与时装秀合作,或是限量版设
计。”United Nude的下一个3D打印项目将
与该行业的领导者3D Systems合作,将五
位著名建筑师和设计师的鞋履作品在米兰
的Salone del Mobile展出。
生产系列手表和Lo Res汽车是Kool-
haas现在最期待的两个项目,他也期望为店
铺引入新的概念。United Nude的店铺通常
以黑色装饰搭配灯光装置为鞋品营造一种
移动的聚光灯效果,而在将来,Koolhaas希
望在店铺设计中添加一些冲击效果较小、更
能体现品牌各式设计的物品。
尽管涉猎广泛,Möbius鞋做为United
Nude的首个成功设计仍然是其立身之本。
它首次将工业设计与时尚相结合,标志着鞋
履制造业进入新领域。其所运用的将鞋底、
鞋跟、鞋床、鞋面一体成型的莫比乌斯带设
计为鞋品制造引入了创新方法和新型材料。
它仍然是Koolhaas最喜欢的设计。“他或许
是我最标志性的设计,除此之外,它也改变
了我的职业,让我投身到鞋品设计中,它改
变了我所生活的世界。换句话说,它不只是
101
tunggalnya sendiri. Untuk musim semi/
musim panas 2015, koleksinya menyaji-
kan 'gaya street fashion dan urban chic di
bawah satu atap - tempat yang bisa di-
kunjungi semua orang dan apa pun bo-
leh', kata Gulsen. Rancangan dengan
siluet yang hidup namun tampil glamor
dan beragam busana, mulai dari gaun
draperi dan jaket utilitas yang dirancang
ulang, hingga rok peplum feminin den-
gan detail yang sportif. Sebuah rok kulit
berumbai - Stella - menjadi koleksi yang
menonjol. 'Kenakan dengan sweter ra-
jutan atau sepatu hak tinggi dan atasan
metalik untuk acara di malam hari,' saran
Gulsen.
Gabungan antara rancangan yang
menarik perhatian dan busana biasa yang
ditawarkan oleh SuperTrash mencer-
minkan selera bergaya Belanda. 'Menu-
rut saya, wanita Belanda sangat praktis
dalam berpakaian,' kata Gulsen. 'Bukan
berarti kami lebih memilih kenyamanan
daripada gaya; hanya saja, kami tahu cara
menggabungkan keduanya menjadi suatu
penampilan yang modis.'
Emily Hermans, sang perancang la-
bel pakaian wanita MLY yang mulai ban-
yak digemari, sepakat akan hal ini dengan
menggambarkan mode Belanda sebagai
'pantas dikenakan, dengan inovasi dalam
hal teknik serta memiliki fokus dan kon-
sep yang unik'. Koleksi MLY tampil
menonjol berkat kain khas mereka, yang
sebagian besar dikembangkan oleh Her-
mans sendiri, menampilkan benang ber-
sertifkasi ekolabel dan serat alami yang
terurai hayati; perancang ini dikenal den-
gan pendekatan tradisionalnya. Kary-
anya berupa jajaran busana yang cender-
ung disatukan oleh motif cetak yang kuat
dan tegas. 'Karakter penggemar MLY
adalah orang yang senang dengan warna-
warni dan suka diperhatikan,' Hermans
dan menarik perhatian internasional
dalam prosesnya, seperti yang ditelusuri
oleh Kate Moore
Konseptual, inovatif, dan berpikiran
terbuka, namun pragmatis, itulah kata-
kata yang selama ini digunakan untuk
menggambarkan industri mode Belanda.
Karakter terpuji ini berarti bahwa, sejak
medio 1990-an, label pakaian siap pakai
dari negara ini mulai menarik perhatian
internasional, dengan merek-merek se-
perti SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Clau-
dia Sträter, dan Viktor & Rolf memimpin
pasar. Belanda yang merupakan tempat
berdirinya dua akademi mode ternama di
dunia, satu di Eindhoven satu lagi di Arn-
hem, serta beragam program acara yang
mencakup Pekan Mode Internasional
Amsterdam, Arnhem Mode Biennale,
dan Penghargaan Mode Belanda, telah
secara cepat menjadi salah satu destinasi
pakaian wanita terkemuka di Eropa.
Berada di antara label merek high-
street dan mewah, SuperTrash meru-
pakan salah satu merek terkemuka yang
muncul dari Belanda dalam beberapa
tahun terakhir. Koleksi kontemporernya
menyajikan beragam gaya, mulai dari
pakaian rajut mewah dan sepatu stiletto
ekspresi, hingga gaun kain cetak dan
pakaian berbahan denim. 'Di era digital,
mode dapat diakses oleh semua orang,
namun bukan berarti terjangkau oleh
semua orang,' papar Olcay Gulsen, pemi-
lik merek ini. 'Saya berharap SuperTrash
dapat menjembatani kesenjangan ini dan
menjadikan mode sebagai suatu kenyata-
an bagi lebih banyak perempuan.'
Label yang baru saja merayakan
ulang tahunnya yang ke-10 ini tampil
secara rutin di Pekan Mode Amsterdam
dan dijual di lebih dari 2.000 butik di se-
luruh dunia, selain memiliki toko merek
globalblue.com
102
garis elegan: bayangkan busana siang
dengan motif cetak yang mudah dipadu-
padankan dan jahitan santai dalam palet
warna-warni menarik.
Upaya untuk berfokus pada kelay-
apakaian dan keserbacekatan tanpa
mengorbankan gaya ini, mungkin men-
jadi alasan merek mode Belanda terus
berkembang di seluruh Eropa dan lebih
jauh lagi. Mulai dari busana chic karya
Claudia Sträter hingga busana standar
mewah dari SuperTrash, para perancang
Belanda menawarkan busana-busana
yang bisa menjadi kebanggaan di lemari
pakaian siapa pun. Dan ketika tongkat es-
tafet ini diserahkan kepada generasi per-
ancang berikutnya - yang berkomitmen
untuk menghormati estetika ini sekaligus
menciptakan terobosan-terobosan - inva-
si internasional Belanda tampaknya akan
terus berlanjut.
supertrash.com, mly.nl,
claudiastrater.com
menjelaskan. 'Dia suka desain grafs dan
mengerti kualitas.'
Perancang ini tertarik untuk
mengembangkan bahan kainnya sendiri
saat belajar di Amsterdam Fashion In-
stitute (AMFI). 'Pelajarannya disebut
dengan penataan gaya tekstil dan kami
harus membuat bahan tekstil sendiri dari
nol,' jelasnya. 'Merajut menjadi kecintaan
saya.' Untuk koleksi musim semi/musim
panas 2015, perancang ini menggunakan
suasana hati refektif dengan mengambil
tema, rancangan, warna, dan siluet dari
koleksi sebelumnya untuk menciptakan
sebuah kolase mode kaleidoskopik. Ha-
sil akhirnya menampilkan suatu koleksi
multiaspek yang menawarkan keanggu-
nan sekaligus aksen streetwear, siluet te-
gas dengan detail yang halus, pola grafs
penuh warna, dan rancangan yang lebih
organik.
Terlepas dari keragaman ini, estetika
keseluruhan MLY sangat khas Belanda:
pantas dipakai tanpa repot dengan tam-
bahan secukupnya untuk membuatnya
tampak menarik. Untuk menambah iden-
titas lokal dari merek ini, hampir seluruh
koleksinya diproduksi di Belanda. 'Bagian
utama dari proses produksi dilakukan di
sini,' Hermans menegaskan. 'Kami ra-
mah lingkungan dan memiliki fokus yang
kuat untuk terus mendekatkan pengeta-
huan dan pabrik.'
Dengan tim yang hampir seluruh-
nya dari Belanda, Claudia Sträter telah
menjadi salah satu label pakaian wanita
yang terkenal di negara ini. Merek ini
sangat mahir dalam menerjemahkan
tren internasional untuk publik Belanda,
sementara kualitasnya yang tinggi dan
perhatiannya pada fungsi, secara khusus
sangat me-narik bagi wanita sibuk dan
aktif. Rancangannya memiliki kepekaan
abadi, dengan potongan rapi dan garis-
Merek alas kaki United Nude milik Rem
D Koolhaas melanjutkan terobosan-
nya dalam hal desain dan produksi. Dia
bercerita tentang masa lalu, saat ini, dan
masa depan dalam wawancara dengan
Verity Hogan
Dongeng kisah sukses United Nude be-
rawal dari sepercik kekecewaan romantis.
Rem D Koolhaas, direktur kreatif dan
salah seorang pendiri perusahaan alas
kaki ini, berkuliah di jurusan arsitektur
ketika patah hati karena seorang gadis.
Kejadian ini membuatnya 'menurunkan
skala arsitektur ke ukuran yang pal-
ing kecil dan rentan, yaitu kaki wanita’.
Cerita ini berakhir bahagia; desain awal
50: Leading The Way
Memimpin Jalan
103
Koolhaas mendapatkan pujian dari Mi-
uccia Prada dan Sergio Rossi, sebelum
dia bertemu dengan Galahad Clark,
seorang pembuat sepatu generasi ketujuh
dan anggota dari dinasti Clark, lalu ked-
uanya meluncurkan United Nude pada
tahun 2003.
Sejak itu, merek ini dikenal meng-
hasilkan beberapa alas kaki yang paling
canggih di dunia secara teknis dengan
rancangan yang dapat langsung dikenali
berkat kegamblangan, keanggunan, dan
inovasinya. Koolhaas (orang yang ber-
beda dengan Rem Koolhaas, pamannya
yang juga seorang arsitek) mengambil
jurusan arsitektur di Universitas Teknik
(TU) Delft), dan ilmu yang didapatnya
di sana sangat jelas tampak dalam ran-
cangan sepatunya yang artistik. 'Untuk
setiap rancangan, saya selalu mulai dari
konsep yang sangat jelas dan dasar, yaitu
bermain dengan ruang atau gravitasi,
yang dapat didefnisikan sebagai suatu
pendekatan arsitektur,' akunya.
Rancangan United Nude selalu
menampilkan terobosan-terobosan di
bidang alas kaki, bahkan sejak awal la-
hirnya merek ini. 'Di masa itu, sepatu
secara umum agak membosankan, jadi
kami melihat peluang yang baik untuk
menyajikan sepatu yang berbeda dengan
cerita baru,' Koolhaas menjelaskan. Un-
tungnya, dalam 15 tahun terakhir, indus-
tri ini mulai mau mengambil risiko yang
lebih besar, sebuah perkembangan yang
disambut baik oleh Koolhaas. 'Saya pikir
kemudahan berbagi informasi melalui
Internet juga menjadi penyebab perkawi-
nan silang besar-besaran di segala bidang
kreatif, termasuk sepatu,' tegasnya. 'Kami
adalah salah satu perintis yang keluar
dari batasan-batasan ini, dan saya pikir
masih hingga sekarang.'
Sejumlah kolaborasi mencolok telah
membantu United Nude tetap me-
mimpin di depan. Koolhaas bekerja sama
dengan perancang asal Belanda, Iris van
Herpen, dalam sembilan pertunjukan
pentas busana Haute Couture secara ber-
turut-turut, menciptakan sebuah rancan-
gan pesanan khusus untuk Lady Gaga
dalam acara peluncuran parfumnya,
Fame (dengan hak 30 cm), dan bekerja
sama dengan arsitek Zaha Hadid un-
tuk menciptakan Nova Shoe yang unik.
'Kami bekerja dengan orang-orang yang
menawarkan hal-hal baru ke pasar,' kata
Koolhaas. 'Orang-orang yang cukup ber-
beda dengan kami, namun cukup serasi
untuk mendapatkan kekuatan yang lebih
besar melalui kerja sama, orang-orang
dengan bakat besar, serta mereka yang
terinspirasi oleh dan menginspirasi kami.'
Untuk musim semi/musim panas
2015, merek ini terus berinovasi dan
telah meluncurkan beberapa konsep
baru, antara lain jajaran Lo Res. Sandal
Lo Res Earth tampaknya akan menjadi
salah satu alas kaki populer musim ini;
dengan rancangan uniseksnya, sepatu ini
memiliki bantalan kaki ergonomis yang
sesuai dengan kaki pemakai, sedangkan
bagian jari kakinya yang membulat dan
sol karet bergerigi memberikan nuansa
sport mewah. Keberhasilan dari musim
sebelumnya juga telah digagas ulang un-
tuk musim semi: sepatu bot Jacky dengan
tumit geometrisnya yang tebal, sekarang
tersedia dengan bahan dan warna baru.
Bagi Koolhaas, inovasi tidak hanya
terbatas pada warna dan bahan yang
baru. Perancang ini dikenal sebagai pe-
rintis teknik manufaktur baru dan sistem
cetak 3D yang dipeloporinya menjadi
contoh utama. Meski begitu, dia meya-
kini bahwa perlu beberapa lama hingga
sepatu pompa cetak menjadi sesuatu
yang biasa. 'Dalam waktu dekat, cetak
globalblue.com
104
3D mungkin hanya akan berfungsi seb-
agai metode produksi yang lebih eksklusif
untuk ceruk pasar berskala kecil, misal-
nya untuk pertunjukan pentas busana
atau rancangan edisi terbatas.' Proyek
cetak 3D United Nude berikutnya akan
diproduksi bersama pemimpin pasar in-
dustri ini, 3D Systems, serta akan mem-
pertemukan lima arsitek dan perancang
terkenal untuk menciptakan sepatu-
sepatu yang akan dipamerkan di Salone
del Mobile di Milan.
Jajaran desain jam tangan dan mobil
Lo Res adalah dua prakarsa mendatang
yang saat ini paling membuat Koolhaas
bersemangat. Perancang ini juga ingin
memperkenalkan sebuah konsep toko
baru. Toko United Nude biasanya me-
nampilkan dekorasi gelap dengan in-
stalasi lampu yang memberikan gerak,
suasana, dan sorotan pada sepatu-sepa-
tunya; di masa mendatang, dia ingin
menciptakan sesuatu yang sedikit kurang
ekstrem dan sedikit lebih praktis untuk
mencerminkan tawaran produk yang
lebih luas.
Terlepas dari perbauran ini, sepatu
Möbius masih tetap menjadi desain Unit-
ed Nude yang paling dikenal dan meru-
pakan kesuksesan pertamanya. Sepatu
ini menandai sebuah era baru dalam
manufaktur alas kaki dan yang pertama
me-ngaburkan batas antara desain in-
dustri dan mode. Penggunaan lembaran
tunggal untuk membentuk sol, hak, ban-
talan kaki, dan lidah sepatu menciptakan
suatu penemuan metode konstruksi dan
material baru. Rancangan ini masih
menjadi favorit Koolhaas. 'Ini mungkin
rancangan saya yang paling ikonis, na-
mun selain itu, sepatu ini juga yang mem-
buat saya mengubah profesi, memulai
karir saya, membuat saya berpindah tem-
pat tinggal. Dengan kata lain, ini bukan
hanya sepatu yang saya ciptakan - namun
juga sepatu yang membentuk diri saya.'
unitednude.com
93: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
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106 | PRODUCTS
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