SHOP Holland SS15

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HOLLAND | ГОЛЛАНДИЯ | 荷兰 | BELANDA HOLLAND City Edition Spring/Summer 2015 Page 44 PRACTICALLY PERFECT: how the Dutch mastered day-to- night chic

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Transcript of SHOP Holland SS15

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HOLLAND | ГОЛЛАНДИЯ | 荷兰 | BELANDA

HO

LL

AN

D City

Editio

n S

prin

g/Su

mm

er 2015

Page 44

PRACTICALLY

PERFECT:

how the Dutch

mastered day-to-

night chic

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TAX FREE

Shop the world’s most exclusive brands, such

as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Burberry, Gucci,

Salvatore Ferragamo and Longines. Visit our

fl agship store in Amsterdam on Dam Square

and receive your Tax Refund on the 4th fl oor.

Find out more at deBijenkorf.nl/international

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EDITOR’S LETTER

8

Emma Cheevers

@shopcontent

/globalblue/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: IS

AA

C B

ON

AN

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Austrian Alps

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Nuremburg

Oslo

Paris

巴黎

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Seoul

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Tokyo

Vienna

Vilnius

Welcome to Holland

Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of Holland.

Read about the footwear brand that’s pushing

boundaries in design and manufacture (page

50), the country’s most innovative restaurants

(page 58), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax

Free Shopping market leader that helps you

save up to 16% when shopping in Holland. We

publish guides to over 40 destinations across

Europe and Asia. Our international insider

knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell

you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in

Holland. For the very latest information, visit

globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global

Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free

without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and

enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and

promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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globalblue.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Thomas Danthony

Thomas Danthony created this

season’s cover illustration for

SHOP Holland. His eye-catching

artwork has previously been

commissioned by Microsoft,

Nokia and M&C Saatchi, among

others. His clever compositions

make him a perfect illustrator for

this cover, inspired by our feature

about the versatility of Dutch wo-

menswear on page 44. It shows

a stylish woman in an outft that

can take her from casual daywear

to glamorous eveningwear with

a few well-chosen accessories.

Read more about our cover illustra-

tions at globalblue.com/covers.ILL

US

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ION

: TH

OM

AS

DA

NT

HO

NY

Verity Hogan

After working for a Mexican mag-

azine and reporting in Romania,

history graduate Verity Hogan

swapped writing about crinolines

and corsets for more contemporary

clothes when she moved to London

to pursue journalism. She is now

SHOP’s features editor.

Theresa Harold

SHOP’s fashion assistant Theresa

Harold studied creative writing

at Bath Spa University. Since then,

she has worked in Hong Kong,

Macau and London, covering the

latest in luxury living. She has in-

terviewed celebrities, designers,

CEOs – and, memorably, a prince.

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7forallmankind.com

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

SHOP FLOOR

14

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chief

Emma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

Publisher

James Morris

Online managing editor

Kirsty Welsh

Online production assistant

Marina Nelson

Online assistant

Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor

Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor

Junjie Dou

Chinese contributing editor

Qingya He

Chinese editorial assistants

Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang

Chinese translators

Xun Ji, Yin Shi,

Chenguang Yi

Russian editor

Anastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor

Daria Orlova

Russian translators

Diana Fitkulina, Teena

Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Translation services

Language Connect

Print

Dane Consultancy

Commercial editor

Gemma Latham

Commercial artworking assistant

Aaron Carline

AVP business development manager

Patrice Janet

Chief Executive Officer

David Baxby

Chief Traveller Officer

Craig Le Grice

SHOP is published by

Global Blue

Group headquarters

Global Blue SA,

Route de Crassier 7,

CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number

5565726923

globalblue.com

[email protected]

Head of digital

Eamonn Leacy

Digital campaign manager

Nina Kobalia

Digital marketing executive

Wenhan Zhang

Digital marketing intern

Anastasia Budieva

Product manager

Devesh Sankadecha

Digital intern

Sammy Ha

Advertising and partnership manager

Riccardo Canini

Managing editor

Sally McIlhone

Cover illustrator

Thomas Danthony

Contributor

Kate Moore

Production editor

Caterina Mazzolai

Acting production editor

Ruairidh Pritchard

Production assistant

Katie Muxworthy

Features editor

Verity Hogan

City guide and lifestyle editor

Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion editor

Ximena Daneri

News editor

Hannah Lewis

Fashion and news assistant

Theresa Harold

Fashion coordinator

Fani Mari

Fashion and news intern

Rebecca Fearn

Chief sub-editor

Hester Lacey

Copy editors

Katie Davis, Sue Flook,

Claire Gervat, Ann

Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Picture editor

Kirsty Andrews

Creative editor/ deputy picture editor

Sarah Beyts

Assistant picture editor

Grace Bird

Picture assistants

Mónica R Goya,

Sarah Walker

Art direction

Design by S-T

Artwork editor

Adam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants

Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala,

George Trinick

Artworking intern

Samantha Junak

GL OBA L BLU E

N E T H E R L A N DS

Head of commercial Benelux

Marja van Reijn

Marketing and sales manager

Kathy van Haaren

Sales and marketing support

Nikki de Graaf,

Regina de Neve

Key account manager

Peter Belang

Account managers

Arvind Gangapersadsing,

Astrid Maes,

Karish Resodikromo,

Irene Schermer

Global Blue Holland BV,

Leidsevaartweg 99-6,

2106 AS Heemstede,

The Netherlands,

+31 (0)23 524 1909

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Elegance is an attitude

Kate Winslet

Conquest Classic

Hobbemastraat 14

1071 ZB Amsterdam

+31(0)20 303 1218

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CONTENTS

18

Above: SuperTrash’s latest collection is a perfect example of the wearable yet innovative aesthetic of Holland’s womenswear brands

p.44

PRODUC TS

24 Check Out

SHOP selects a standout piece

from Holland this season

26 My Favourites

Jeweller Bibi van der Velden

reveals her top tips for spring/

summer 2015

28 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

N E WS

36 Shop Window

One store not to be missed

in Holland

38 News

Seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

F E AT U R E S

44 Cover Story:

Efortless Cool

Holland’s womenswear

designers ofer an inviting

blend of innovation

and wearability,

attracting international

attention in the process,

as Kate Moore discovers

50 Leading The Way

United Nude continues

to push boundaries

in footwear design

and manufacture.

Founder Rem D Koolhaas

talks to Verity Hogan

about the brand’s past,

present and future

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CONTENTS

20

E X PE R I E NCE

58 Table Talk

Dining out in Holland

is a rewarding experience,

says Theresa Harold

64 Perfect Day

Where to go and what to do

in Rotterdam and The Hague

GU I DE

69 Maps and guides to Holland’s

top shops and destinations,

plus SHOP’s unique view

of Amsterdam’s sights

E SSE N T I A L S

93 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

T R A NSL AT IONS

94 Русский Перевод98 美文翻译

100 Terjemahan Bahasa Indonesia

SOU V E N I R

106 The essential item

to bring home

Follow the Global Blue editors

on the move for up-to-the-

minute shopping tips and

insider information.

GET SOCIAL

@shopcontent

/globalblue

/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlueRu

COMPETITIONS

FASHION

ONLINE

ENGLISH | Р УС СКИЙ | 中文

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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.Footwear, Apparel &

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24 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

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FLYING HIGH

Inject a dose of colour into your

summer wardrobe with this strik-

ing scarf from Hermès, made from

hand-rolled silk twill. Designer

Laurence Bourthoumieux has de-

picted two famingos in their native

Florida, where they were once wide-

spread, with the exotic creatures

surrounded by lush vegetation.

This vibrant accessory is endlessly

versatile – simply knot it around

a handbag strap for a contemporary

twist on a classic look. Hermès has

become famous worldwide for the

quality of its scarves; each one

is woven from the best quality silk

and fnished by hand. th

Hermès silk scarf, €335,

De Bijenkorf, Dam 1,

1012 JS Amsterdam,

+31 (0)88 245 9176, hermes.com

* for map go to page 76

CHECK OUT

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26 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

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MY FAVOURITES:

Bibi van der Velden

Born in New York and raised in London and the

Netherlands, Bibi van der Velden has a lifelong

passion for art. She is a trained sculptor, which

directly informs the beautiful jewellery she cre-

ates for her eponymous accessories label.

Her pieces are inspired by nature and by materi-

als she fnds on her travels. Here she shares

some of her favourite products and places

in Amsterdam with Gemma Latham

bibivandervelden.com

1. ‘I love practi-

cally everything

Anya Hindmarch

makes and have built

up a vast collec-

tion over the years.

I defnitely have one

of her new bags high

on my wish list’

Anya Hindmarch, anyahindmarch.com

2. ‘There’s a new

generation of res-

taurants that serve

pure, good food and

where the interiors are

simple but just right.

The owners are fanati-

cal about what they do,

and their enthusiasm

is inspiring. Rijsel

is a good example’

Rijsel, Marcusstraat 52B, 1091 TK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 463 2142, rijsel.com

3. ‘I really love Aesop.

My skin is hyper-

sensitive, but it

reacts well to Aesop’s

products. I also like

the packaging and

the wildfower scents’

Aesop Primrose Facial

Cleansing Masque

60ml, €29, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, aesop.com

21

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SHOP | 27

4. ‘I love what

independent stores

are doing at the

moment; many are

pop-ups, but Hutspot

is a great concept and

is open all year round’

Hutspot, Van Woustraat 4, 1073 LL Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 223 1331, hutspotamsterdam.com

5. ‘My signature fra-

grance is Philosykos

from Diptyque’

Diptyque Philosykos

fragrance, 75ml, €98, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, diptyque.com

6. ‘Scarab wings are

a recurring element

in my work. I love

this ring’

Bibi van der Velden

Scarab ring in sterling

silver and 18-carat gold

with brown diamonds

and a scarab wing,

€2,495, White Space, Maarten Jansz Kosterstraat 18, 1017 VZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 9095, bibivandervelden.com

globalblue.com

63

4

5

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28 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

3. Hugo sandals, €249, Hugo Boss,

Leidsestraat 1-3, 1017 NS Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 422 1511, hugoboss.com

4. Cos printed silk coat, €135, Cos,

Venestraat 17-19, 2511 AR The Hague,

+31 (0)70 363 5773, cosstores.com

1. & Other Stories nail polish, €7,

& Other Stories, Heiligeweg 26-28,

1012 XR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 427 5139,

stories.com

2. Happy Plugs earbuds, €34.16,

Capi, Amsterdam Schiphol Airport

(Arrivals 2), 1118 CP Schiphol,

+31 (0)20 446 6310, happyplugs.com

RISE AND

SHINE

Wake up to the

dazzling possibilities

of metallic accessories

1

2

3

4

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ATTOLINI · ALESSANDRO GHERARDI · BRIONI · BRUNELLO CUCINELLI · CARUSO ·

CORNELIANI · ETRO · EMANUELE MAFFEIS · FINAMORE · FRAY · HERNO ·

JACOB COHEN · MONCLER · LORO PIANA · SANTONI · WOOLRICH

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 75-81 AMSTERDAM · KRUISKADE 63-65 ROTTERDAM ·

NOORDEINDE 6 THE HAGUE · LANGE GASTHUISSTRAAT 7 ANTWERP, BELGIUM ·

SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.OGER.NL

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30 | PRODUCTS

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Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

3. Lennebelle bracelet, €49, Groos, Schiekade 203, 3013 BR Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 414 5816, lennebelle.com

4. Jimmy Choo stilettos, €425, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 3333, jimmychoo.com

1. Byredo Bullion eau de parfum,

100ml, €140, Skins Cosmetics, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat 137, 3012 GT Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 214 2505, byredo.com

2. Marc Cain skirt, €129.90, Marc Cain, PC Hooftstraat 126, 1071 CD Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 6155, marc-cain.com

BLACK GOLD

Take a stroll on the dark side with accessories ft for a rock star

1

2

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globalblue.com

7. Swarovski necklace, €89, Swarovski, Spuistraat 12A, 2511 BD The Hague, +31 (0)70 360 4473, swarovski.com

8. Dolce & Gabbana watch, €5,950, Dolce & Gabbana, PC Hooftstraat 106, 1071 CC Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 470 6468, dolcegabbana.com

5. Mulberry backpack, €1,690, Mulberry, PC Hooftstraat 46, 1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 3222, mulberry.com

6. G-Star coat, €179.95, G-Star, PC Hooftstraat 24-28, 1071 BX Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 471 1117, g-star.com

SHOP | 31

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32 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

1. Marc O’Polo trench coat, €269.90,

Marc O’Polo, Hartenstraat 9,

1016 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 622 6416,

marc-o-polo.com

2. Lieke van Opstal snood, €90,

Damage Playground, Hillelaan 29,

3072 JD Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 751 1587,

liekevanopstal.nl

3. Acne trousers, €250, Acne,

Oude Spiegelstraat 8, 1016 BM Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 422 6845, acnestudios.com

4. Topman sunglasses, €34,

De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam,

+31 (0)88 245 3333, topman.com

WANDERLUST

Unleash your inner nomad with this travel-friendly

ensemble

1

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SHOP | 33

globalblue.com

5. Scotch & Soda iPhone 6 case,

€27.95, Scotch & Soda, Heiligeweg 34-36,

1012 XS Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 528 7661,

scotch-soda.com

6. Moleskine travel notebook, €22.90,

Scheltema, Koningsplein 20,

1017 BB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 523 1411,

moleskine.com

7. Lomography Diana camera, €119,

Urban Outftters, 31-33 Kalverstraat,

1012 NX Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 422 2981, lomography.com

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36 | NEWS

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SHOP WINDOW

IT’S A MAN’S WORLD

Founded by three young men from

Amsterdam (a designer, a curator

and an entrepreneur), Concrete

Matter began life as a small web-

shop in 2012. The trio brought to-

gether a selection of goods for men

that, as they describe, walked the

line between beauty and durability.

Moving to a bricks-and-mortar lo-

cation just a year later, Concrete

Matter is one of the more

interesting stores in Amsterdam,

with one of the most consistently

great selections around. You’ll fnd

nothing forgettable, as the team

strives against the culture of anon-

ymous mass-production, and each

piece is still chosen for that same

balance of beauty and durability.

All this and more is why it was

voted ‘best shop in Amsterdam’

by local guide NL Streets. hl

Concrete Matter,

Haarlemmerdijk 127,

1013 KE Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 261 0933,

concrete-matter.com

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250 BRANDS - 30-70% SAVINGS - 7 DAYS A WEEK

HUGO BOSS - GANT - GUESS - NIKE - LACOSTE - MARC O’POLO

G-STAR FOOTWEAR - LE CREUSET - ASICS - AND MANY MORE

WWW.BATAVIASTAD.COM

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Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

KEEP FIT, HAVE FUN

Exercise might not be everyone’s

favourite pastime, but even the most

gym-shy can agree that the right kit

can make you feel ready for any-

thing, and where better to stock up

on the latest in sports gear than the

Amsterdam Puma concept store?

Designed by creative architects Pla-

jer & Franz Studio, the colourful

ALL WOMAN Beloved by street-style pho-

tographers and fashion bloggers

alike, the efortless cool of Scan-

dinavian fashion is epitomised

by Danish brand Second Female.

Launched in 2010, the label has

garnered international acclaim

and is now sold worldwide. For

spring/summer 2015, look out for

Breton tops, leather biker jackets

and oversized silk shirts aplenty;

team them with tousled hair and

minimal make-up for a real Scan-

di-chic look. th

Second Female,

Prinsengracht 417-419,

1016 HM Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 420 4151,

secondfemale.com

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SHOP | 39

globalblue.com

store ofers a vast range of Puma’s

modern and stylish sportswear, with

a focus on the humble yet highly

fashionable sneaker. Look out for

interactive gadgets and tongue-in-

cheek design elements throughout:

Puma wants to put the fun into

shopping for sports gear. hl

Puma,

Singel 429-435,

1012 WP Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 528 6166,

puma.com

* for map go to page 78

A WELCOME ADDITION

Prada has opened its frst store

in Amsterdam, on prestigious

shopping street PC Hooftstraat.

Spread over two foors, the Italian

brand’s frst store in Holland has

been created by architect Roberto

Baciocchi, and takes inspiration

from both the historic building and

the urban landscape. The exclusive

boutique showcases the label’s

latest collections, including wom-

en’s ready-to-wear, leather goods

and women’s accessories, and has a

dedicated footwear space featuring

unique displays. The store also has

a small private area, dedicated to

the boutique’s special guests,

where the walls and ceiling are cov-

ered in green velvet. es

Prada, PC Hooftstraat 63H,

1071 BN Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 493 0510,

prada.com

* for map go to page 86

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love shared between two people.

When it comes to one of the most

important purchases of your life,

you can put your complete trust

in the experts at Tifany. mkh

Tifany & Co,

PC Hooftstraat 86-88,

1071 CB Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 305 0920, tifany.com

* for map go to page 86

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

WE LOVE TIFFANY

They say that diamonds are

a girl’s best friend, and Tifany

knows this better than most. Since

it created its (literally) trademark

Tifany™ Setting in 1886 – an ele-

vated, six-prong setting that dis-

plays the stone to perfection – the

brand has been at the forefront

of engagement rings. The beauty

and luxury of a Tifany engagement

ring serves as a lasting reminder of a

SNEAKER GIRL

The past few years have seen

a notable growth in the female

sneaker industry. Thanks to

stores such as No Boys Allowed,

all the major brands are fnally

starting to invest more time and

money in creating more technical

and interesting models for

women. No Boys Allowed cur-

rently has two stores, one in The

Hague and one in Amsterdam,

which are the frst dedicated

women’s sneaker stores in Eu-

rope. In addition to stocking a

variety of brands, they are among

the only stores in Holland to ofer

exclusive releases and limited-

edition models. Pay a visit to ei-

ther branch for the latest models,

well-informed and enthusiastic

staf and much more. dh

No Boys Allowed,

Prinsestraat 104,

2513 CG The Hague,

+31 (0)70 780 2310,

noboysallowed.nl

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Beauty and more … visit Europe’º

No. 1 perfumery!

WE WILL BE PLEASED TO WELCOME YOU

TO THE DOUGLAS WORLD OF BEAUTY:

Douglas is established in more than 100 cities in the Netherlands. For addresses see: www.douglas.nl

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

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42 | NEWS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

TIME FOR A CHANGE

‘Nobody really needs a clock’:

so says Lef Amsterdam, which has

been producing some of the most

inspiring since 2011. This unique

philosophy has led the team to de-

sign clocks that do more than just

count the seconds, minutes and

hours. For the tube clock, created

in collaboration with Dutch de-

signer Piet Hein Eek, Lef Amster-

dam took a tube and an extrusion

ring and created something simple

yet beautiful. The range comprises

a clock and a speaker, available

JEAN GENIUS

Fans of Dutch denim brand

Denham should make a bee-line for

the Denham Cofee and Concept

Store in Amsterdam’s De Negen

Straatjes (‘the nine streets’) area,

which opened last year. The store

ofers a revolving presentation

of special stories from the collection,

highlighting a diferent aspect of the

brand every few weeks, so you can

learn something new every time you

visit. The store also has a cofee bar,

where you can sip an espresso while

your favourite jeans are repaired. fm

Denham, Prinsengracht 531,

1016 HR Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 303 2825,

denhamthejeanmaker.com

* for map go to page 84

in copper, rose gold and gunmetal

colours, which can also be inserted

into a sleek wooden box, ofering a

diferent but equally elegant orna-

mental piece that just happens

to tell the time. th

Metz, Nieuwe Binnenweg 170,

3015 BH Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 436 4566,

lefamsterdam.com

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SHOP | 43

globalblue.com

HOME OF DESIGN

The story of Store Without

a Home began in an Amsterdam

suburb circa 2010 – in a large, un-

heated barn to be precise. Since

then, the company has moved

to various temporary locations

before fnally fnding its perma-

nent base in the city centre.

Selling distinctive products for

the home by little-known Dutch

and international brands, the

store is a curated haven for design

lovers. Best of all, if you happen

to fall for something too big for

your suitcase, your purchases can

be shipped anywhere in the world

for you. th

Store Without a Home,

Haarlemmerdijk 26,

1013 JD Amsterdam,

storewithoutahome.nl

Page 44: SHOP Holland SS15
Page 45: SHOP Holland SS15

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Page 46: SHOP Holland SS15

46 | FEATURES

Conceptual, innovative and

open-minded yet pragmat-

ic are all words that have

been used to describe the Dutch

fashion industry. These laudable

traits have meant that, since the

mid 1990s, the country’s ready-to-

wear labels have started to attract

increasing international attention,

with brands such as SuperTrash,

Scotch & Soda, Claudia Sträter

and Viktor & Rolf leading the

charge. Home to two of the world’s

most accomplished fashion acade-

mies, in Eindhoven and Arnhem,

and a varied programme of events

including Amsterdam Internation-

al Fashion Week, the Arnhem

Mode Biennale and the Dutch

Fashion Awards, Holland is rapidly

becoming one of Europe’s leading

womenswear destinations.

Occupying the space between

high-street and luxury labels, Su-

perTrash is one of the leading

brands to have emerged from the

Netherlands in recent years.

Its contemporary collections fea-

ture everything from luxe knitwear

and statement stilettos to printed

dresses and denim staples. ‘In the

digital era fashion is accessible to

everyone, but that doesn’t mean it’s

afordable for everyone,’ explains

Olcay Gulsen, the brand’s owner.

‘I hope that SuperTrash bridges the

gap and makes fashion a reality for

more women.’

The label, which recently cele-

brated its 10th anniversary, regu-

larly shows at Amsterdam Fashion

Week and is stocked in more than

2,000 boutiques worldwide as well

as having its own monobrand

stores. For spring/summer 2015,

the collection sees ‘street fashion

and urban chic united under one

roof – it’s a place where everyone’s

invited and anything goes’, says

Gulsen. Silhouettes are playful yet

glamorous and pieces range from

draped dresses and deconstructed

utility jackets to feminine peplum

skirts with sporty details. A fringed

leather skirt – the Stella – is a stand-

out item. ‘Dress it down with

a knitted sweater or opt for high

heels and a metallic top for the eve-

ning,’ Gulsen suggests.

The mix of statement pieces

and wearable basics ofered by Su-

perTrash refects the Dutch sense

of style. ‘I think Dutch women are

very practical when it comes

to dressing,’ says Gulsen.

‘That doesn’t mean we love com-

Previous: MLY spring/summer 2015 catwalk show, Amsterdam Fashion Week

/94 98

Lihat halaman 100 untuk terjemahan artikel ini

Page 47: SHOP Holland SS15

SHOP | 47

fort over style; we just know how

to combine the two into one

stylish look.’

Emily Hermans, the designer

behind emerging womenswear la-

bel MLY agrees, describing Dutch

fashion as ‘wearable, with innova-

tion in techniques and a unique

focus and concept’. MLY collec-

tions stand out thanks to their dis-

tinctive fabrics, many developed by

Hermans herself, featuring eco-

certifed yarns and natural, biode-

gradable fbres: the designer

is known for her artisanal ap-

proach. The result is a range of

pieces that tend to be united by

their strong, bold prints. ‘The typi-

cal MLY fan is a colourful person

who likes to be noticed,’ Hermans

concedes. ‘She likes graphic de-

signs and recognises quality.’

The designer became interest-

ed in developing her own materials

while studying at the Amsterdam

Fashion Institute (AMFI). ‘The

lesson was called textile styling and

we had to create our own textiles

from scratch,’ she explains. ‘Knit-

ting became my passion.’ For her

spring/summer 2015 collection,

the designer has been in a refective

mood, taking themes, designs, co-

lours and silhouettes from her pre-

vious collections to create a kalei-

doscopic fashion collage. The end

result is a multifaceted collection,

simultaneously ofering elegance

and streetwear accents, sturdy sil-

houettes with delicate detailing,

colourful graphic patterns and

more organic designs.

Despite this diversity, the

overall MLY aesthetic is typically

Above: SuperTrash spring/summer 2015 campaign featuring the Stella skirt

Page 48: SHOP Holland SS15

48 | F E AT U R E S

Above (from lef): MLY; Claudia Sträter, both spring/summer 2015

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Dutch: efortlessly wearable with

just enough added edge to make

it interesting. Adding to the brand’s

local credentials, its collections are

almost entirely produced in the

Netherlands. ‘The major part

of the production process takes

place here,’ Hermans confrms.

‘We’re environmentally friendly

and have a strong focus on keeping

knowledge and factories close.’

With its almost entirely Dutch

team, Claudia Sträter has become

one of the country’s more recogni-

sable womenswear labels. The

brand is adept at translating inter-

national trends for a Dutch audi-

ence, while its universally high

quality and eye for functionality

typically attracts women with

busy, active lives. Its designs have

a timeless sensibility, with clean

cuts and elegant lines throughout:

think easily co-ordinated sepa-

rates, printed daytime dresses and

relaxed tailoring in an appealing

palette of colours.

This focus on wearability and

versatility without sacrifcing style

may explain why Dutch fashion

brands continue to be embraced

both across Europe and further

afeld. From the chic separates

of Claudia Sträter to the luxe basics

of SuperTrash, Dutch designers of-

fer pieces that could take pride

of place in any wardrobe.

And as the baton is passed to the

next generation of designers – who

are committed to honouring this

aesthetic while testing its limits –

the Dutch international invasion

looks set to continue

supertrash.com,

mly.nl,

claudiastrater.com

Page 49: SHOP Holland SS15

The last remaining Delftware manufacturer from the

17th century. Take a journey through the world of Delft Blue

and enjoy the unique shopping experience in our showroom

with complete authentic and modern collection.

[email protected] | +31 (0)15 251 2030

WWW.ROYALDELFT.COM

T H E E X P E R I E N C E

Page 50: SHOP Holland SS15

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Above: United Nude store, Amsterdam

50 | F E AT U R E S

Rem D Koolhaas’s footwear brand United Nude continues to push boundaries in design and manufacture.

/96 99

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Page 51: SHOP Holland SS15

SHOP | 51

The designer talks to Verity Hogan about the company’s past, present and future, from special-edition collaborations to 3D printing

Page 52: SHOP Holland SS15

52 | FEATURES

United Nude’s fairy-tale suc-

cess story is one born from

romantic disappointment.

Rem D Koolhaas, the footwear

company’s creative director and

co-founder, was studying archi-

tecture when he broke his heart

over a girl, leading him to ‘scale

down architecture to its smallest

and most vulnerable size, that

of a woman’s foot’. The story has

a happy ending; Koolhaas’s initial

designs were praised by Miuccia

Prada and Sergio Rossi before he

met Galahad Clark, a seventh-

generation shoemaker and mem-

ber of the Clarks dynasty, and

launched United Nude in 2003.

Since then, the brand has be-

come known for producing some

of the world’s most technically ad-

vanced footwear, with designs

that are instantly recognisable

thanks to their clarity, ele-

gance and innovation. Koolhaas

(not to be confused with his archi-

tect uncle Rem Koolhaas) studied

architecture at TU Delft (Techni-

cal University of Delft), and this

training is evident in his sculptur-

al shoes. ‘For each design I always

start from a very clear and basic

concept that is either a play

on space or on gravity, which can

be defned as an architectural ap-

proach,’ he concedes.

United Nude’s designs have al-

ways pushed boundaries in the

footwear feld, even from the

brand’s inception. ‘Back then,

shoes in general were rather bor-

ing, so we saw a good opportunity

for presenting diferent shoes with

a new story,’ Koolhaas explains.

Happily, the past 15 years have

seen the industry start to take more

risks, a development Koolhaas wel-

comes. ‘I think that the sharing

of information through the Inter-

net has led to this massive cross

fertilisation in all creative felds,

including shoes,’ he confrms.

‘We were one of the front runners

in breaking the box, and I think

we still are.’

A number of high-profle col-

laborations have helped United

Nude stay ahead of the crowd.

Koolhaas has worked with Dutch

designer Iris van Herpen on nine

consecutive Haute Couture cat-

walk shows, created a bespoke de-

sign for Lady Gaga’s Fame per-

fume launch (with 12-inch heels),

Above (from top): Rem D Koolhaas, creative director of United Nude; Nova shoe, the brand’s

collaboration with Zaha Hadid

Page 53: SHOP Holland SS15

175 YEARS of CRAFTSMANSHIP

Paulus Potterstraat 2-6 | 1071 CZ Amsterdam | The Netherlands

Tel. +31 (0) 20 305 55 55 | www.costerdiamonds.com

Opening hours: 09.00 a.m. till 17.00 p.m. 7 days a week

Visit Coster Diamonds and see how diamond cutters turn a raw

diamond into a beautiful piece of jewelry.

Page 54: SHOP Holland SS15

54 | FEATURES

For Koolhaas,

innovation will

always go far

beyond new colours

and materials

and teamed up with architect Zaha

Hadid to create the distinctive

Nova shoe. ‘We work with people

who bring new things to the table,’

says Koolhaas. ‘People who are dif-

ferent enough from us while being

compatible enough to gain strength

by joining forces, people with great

talent, and people we inspire and

who inspire us.’

For spring/summer 2015, the

brand is continuing to innovate

and has launched several new con-

cepts, including the abstracted Lo

Res range. The Lo Res Earth san-

dal looks set to be one of the shoes

of the season; a unisex design, the

shoe features an ergonomically

shaped footbed, which conforms

to the wearer’s foot, while its

rounded toe and cleated rubber

outsole lend a sport-luxe feel. Suc-

cesses from previous seasons have

also been reimagined for spring:

note the Jacky boot with its bold

geometric heel now available

in new materials and colours.

For Koolhaas, innovation will

always go far beyond new colours

and materials. The designer

is known for pioneering new man-

ufacturing techniques and his

championing of 3D printing

is a prime example. Even so, he be-

lieves it will be some time before

printed pumps become the norm.

‘In the near future 3D printing will

probably only function as a more

exclusive and niche production

method for small quantities, say

Above (clockwise from top lef): Lo Res Earth sandal; Jacky boot, both spring/summer 2015; the brand is championing 3D printing

Page 55: SHOP Holland SS15
Page 56: SHOP Holland SS15

56 | FEATURES

for a catwalk show or limited-edi-

tion design.’ United Nude’s next

3D-printing project will be pro-

duced alongside the industry’s

market leader, 3D Systems, and

will see fve famous architects and

designers create shoes to be shown

at Salone del Mobile in Milan.

A line of watches and the

Lo Res car are the two upcoming

initiatives that Koolhaas is most

excited about at the moment. The

designer is also looking to intro-

duce a new shop concept. United

Nude stores typically feature dark

décor with light installations pro-

viding movement, atmosphere and

a spotlight for the shoes; in future,

he hopes to create something a lit-

tle less extreme and a little more

practical to refect a wider

product ofering.

Despite these difusions, the

Möbius shoe remains the design

for which United Nude is known

and its frst success. It marked

a new era in footwear manufacture

and was the frst to blur borders be-

tween industrial design and fash-

ion. Its use of a single strip to form

the sole, heel, foot bed and upper

led to the invention of new con-

struction methods and new materi-

als. It remains Koolhaas’s favou-

rite. ‘It’s perhaps my most iconic

design, but, besides that, it is also

the shoe that made me change

my profession, started my career,

made me change where I lived.

In other words, this was not just

a shoe that I made – it was also the

shoe that made me.’

unitednude.com

Above (from top): MÖbius shoe; the brand’s collaboration with Iris van Herpen for Lady Gaga’s Fame perfume launch

Page 57: SHOP Holland SS15

SAVE UP TO

16% WHEN

YOU SHOP

TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, find the best stores, and save up to 16% on everything you buy.

globalblue.com/join

Page 58: SHOP Holland SS15

globalblue.com

58 | EXPER IENCE

The Dutch Golden Age of the

17th century had an impact on ev-

ery part of life in Holland, includ-

ing what people ate. Trading ships

brought back spices, sugar and

other exotic ingredients, and the

country’s prosperous citizens de-

veloped a taste for lavish and rich-

ly varied meals – as shown in many

of the fabulous still life paintings

of the time. That willingness

to experiment, to embrace new

trends and to take a fresh look

at familiar dishes is still in evi-

dence today. Nowadays, the most

exciting chefs and restaurants are

pioneering creative uses of local

ingredients with an international

infuence, often in an equally in-

spired setting.

TABLE TALKFrom converted greenhouses to cooking

studios, the fne-dining experience

in Holland is nothing short of innovative.

Theresa Harold discovers that eating can

be a treat for all the senses

Page 59: SHOP Holland SS15

SHOP | 59

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This elegant gem in the smartest

part of Amsterdam is a culinary

treat for visiting foodies thanks to

chef Tommy den Hartog’s pas-

sion and creativity. Using the

highest quality products – most

of which have been sourced lo-

cally – den Hartog creates beauti-

ful dishes that never fail to im-

press, such as smoked eel with

beetroot sorbet, roast beetroot,

apple and foie gras.

Johannes,

Herengracht 413,

1017 BP Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 626 9503,

restaurantjohannes.nl

Page 60: SHOP Holland SS15

60 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

D E K A S

In 2001, well-regarded chef Gert

Jan Hageman stumbled upon

an old greenhouse belonging to

Amsterdam’s municipal nursery,

which was scheduled for demoli-

tion. Thanks to help from family

and friends, Hageman was able

to convert the stunning eight-

metre-high glass building, which

dates from 1926, into a thriving

restaurant and nursery. Using

herbs and vegetables grown

in the greenhouse and on the res-

taurant’s farmland, the chef cre-

ates a fxed menu based on the

daily harvest.

De Kas,

Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3,

1097 DE Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 462 4562,

restaurantdekas.nl

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F R E D

Fred Mustert is the head chef

of Michelin-starred Rotterdam

restaurant Fred. Sticking to the

‘less is more’ philosophy that has

proved so successful for Mustert,

Fred is an elegant dining space

with a menu of creative French

dishes. Everything, from the wine

list to the garnishes, has been

carefully considered and the re-

sult is a pleasing, unifed experi-

ence. Declaring that he is ‘not

a commercial cook’, Mustert hap-

pily invests in expensive ingredi-

ents in order to exceed his

guests’ expectations.

Fred,

Honingerdijk 263-265,

3063 AM Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 212 0110,

restaurantfred.nl

D E C U L I N A I R E

W E R K P L A A T S

De Culinaire Werkplaats is a work-

shop, cooking studio and gallery that

ofers unique adventures in gastron-

omy. The menu uses inspirational

concepts to explore new tastes, tex-

tures and creative ways of eating and

drinking. For example, themes could

be as vague as ‘honesty’ or as specifc

as ‘fowers’. Keep an eye on the web-

site for hints regarding its upcoming

fve-course ‘eat’inspirations’.

De Culinaire Werkplaats,

Fannius Scholtenstraat 10,

1051 EX Amsterdam,

+31 (0)65 464 6576,

deculinairewerkplaats.nl

Page 62: SHOP Holland SS15

KIPLING RETAIL STORES BELGIUM & NETHERLANDS

Century Center, De Keyserlei 58, Antwerpen 2018

Geldmuntstraat 41, Brugge 8000

Grasmarkt 26, Brussels 1000

Voldersstraat 58, Gent 9000

Heiligeweg 39, Amsterdam 1012 XP

Page 63: SHOP Holland SS15

KIPLING OUTLETS BELGIUM & NETHERLANDS

Maasmechelen Outlet, Zetellaan 100 - UNIT 42, Maasmechelen 3630

Messancy Outlet, 199, Route d’Arlon, Messancy 6780

Roermond Outlet, Stadsweide 2, Roermond 6041 TD

Page 64: SHOP Holland SS15

64 | EXPER IENCE

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

A dynamic city with an ever-changing skyline and

a fearless approach to reinvention, Rotterdam is an

ideal day-trip destination. This famous port town

ofers a wealth of shops, cultural attractions, festivals,

restaurants and parks. SHOP spends a day exploring

Rotterdam’s chic’s concept stores and tucking into

the city’s best burgers.

Ter Marsch & Co

A former butcher’s shop

is now one of the city’s best-

loved eateries. Appropriately,

its signature dishes are meat

based, whether it’s the juicy

rib-eye steaks from the in-

house dry-ageing cabinet

or Ter Marsch’s award-win-

ning Grande burger. Vege-

tarians are not left out: meat-

free dishes include the Dutch

salad, which combines goats’

cheese, beetroot and aspara-

gus with parmesan and

a poached egg.

PERFECT DAY: ROTTERDAM

Van Nelle Fabriek

Described as an ‘icon

of Dutch modernism’, and

a recent addition to the Unes-

co World Heritage list, the

Van Nelle factory used

to be known for its cofee, tea

and tobacco production, but

is now admired as an archi-

tectural masterpiece. Built in

the 1920s, the Van Nelle

building was years ahead

of its time thanks to its clever

use of space, light and air,

and the materials featured.

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SHOP | 65

Groos

Vying for the title of Rotter-

dam’s most stylish concept

store, Groos brings together

a chic edit of fashion, music,

art and lifestyle products.

Named after an old Dutch

word meaning ‘pride’, the store

is so called because it sells only

local products and proudly

showcases the work of the

city’s most talented creatives.

Expect an original and tempt-

ing array of men’s and wom-

en’s clothing, alongside acces-

sories, food and homeware.

DIRECTORY

Van Nelle Fabriek,

Van Nelleweg 1,

3044 BC Rotterdam,

vannellefabriek.com

Ter Marsch & Co,

Witte de Withstraat 70,

3012 BS Rotterdam,

termarschco.nl

Groos,

Schiekade 203,

3013 BR Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 414 5816,

groosrotterdam.nl

Delfshaven

For a glimpse of Rotterdam

as it was more than a century ago,

visit the picturesque neighbour-

hood of Delfshaven. Wander its

scenic streets, stopping of

at De Pelgrim, Rotterdam’s only

city brewery, and De Delft,

a painstaking reconstruction

of an 18th-century warship.

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Page 66: SHOP Holland SS15

66 | EXPER IENCE

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93

Gemeentemuseum

Designed by Dutch archi-

tect HP Berlage in the 1930s,

the Gemeentemuseum is

home to the world’s largest

Mondrian collection and is a

must for any art lover. Exhibi-

tions scheduled for this sum-

mer include Beautiful Hol-

land, which features paintings

by the Hague School that cap-

ture the country’s beautiful

yet changing landscapes.

The Hague combines all the amenities of an international

metropolis with the charm of a seaside resort town. Home

to the Dutch government and the royal family, the city

ofers an array of attractions, ranging from prestigious art

galleries to charming cafés. SHOP spends a day exploring

a selection of The Hague’s must-see sights.

PERFECT DAY: THE HAGUE

Bloem

Family-run Bloem is one

of The Hague’s most charm-

ing cafés. Prettily decorated

with antique foral paintings,

it’s the place to go for perfectly

made Italian cofee and show-

stopping cakes. Drop by for

a freshly made light lunch,

or treat yourself to a generous

slice of the lemon meringue

pie at teatime.

Page 67: SHOP Holland SS15

globalblue.com

SHOP | 67

Common Kin

Stocking everything from cool

Scandi designers to fashionable

streetwear brands, Common

Kin is known for its artfully cu-

rated menswear collections. The

store, with its minimalist white

interior featuring quirky card-

board shelving, has become a

magnet for style-conscious lo-

cals looking for anything from

an Alexander Wang T-shirt

to sunglasses from Sun Bunnies.

HanTing Cuisine

At his Michelin-starred res-

taurant, chef Han Ji produces

sumptuous fne-dining food

that’s also good for you. In-

spired by traditional Chinese

medicine and mindful eat-

ing, the Chinese Herbs menu

is designed to be perfectly

balanced in taste, presenta-

tion, texture, smell and its ef-

fect on the body. With dishes

including scallop and lan-

goustine with kumquat and

soy, and lamb with garlic,

Chinese seaweed and daikon,

you can be sure that it’s also

utterly delicious.

DIRECTORY

Bloem,

Korte Houtstraat 6,

2511 CD The Hague,

+31 (0)70 737 0589,

bloemdenhaag.nl

Gemeentemuseum,

Stadhouderslaan 41,

2517 HV The Hague,

+31 (0)70 338 1111,

gemeentemuseum.nl

HanTing Cuisine,

Prinsestraat 33,

2513 CA The Hague,

+31 (0)70 362 0828,

hantingcuisine.nl

Common Kin,

Papestraat 22,

2513 AW The Hague,

+31 (0)70 767 0092,

commonkin.com

Page 68: SHOP Holland SS15

购物时节省高达16%,享受退税购物的卓越。

免费加入环球蓝联,探索您的城市,逛最顶级的商店,每次购物节省高达16%消费。

globalblue.cn/join

Page 69: SHOP Holland SS15

GUIDE

GUIDE | 69

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most

of your trip to Holland with a look at the country’s

must-visit destinations, from the best cafés to the

coolest boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations

before delving deeper with expert guidance from

our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and

detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/holland.

Above: Amsterdam’s many canals are a defning feature of the city

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A GLIMPSE OF AMSTERDAM

Page 70: SHOP Holland SS15

70 | GUIDE

globalblue.com

SNAPSHOTS

OF A CITY

‘Amsterdam offers

a combination of historic

charm with avant-garde

artistic flair, and a visit

is always inspiring’ –

Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s

picture editor

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SHOP | 71

Follow our

team’s travels on

Instagram

@shopcontent.

Tag us in your city

pictures when

sharing them and

you might see

them in print!

Page 72: SHOP Holland SS15

72 | GUIDE

AMSTERDAM

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ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM

NEW CHURCHAMSTERDAM

ANNE FRANKHOUSE

NATIONAL MONUMENT

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM

AMSTERDAM THEATRE

PARADISO

VONDELPARK

THE RIJKSMUSEUM

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

THE STEDELIJK MUSEUMTHE NETHERLANDS

FILM MUSEUM

HEINEKENEXPERIENCE

MUSEUM

CONCERT HALL

FLOWERMARKET

DIAMONDMUSEUM

AMSTERDAM

HOUSE OF BOLS

MADAME TUSSAUDS

ZAZARE DIAMONDS

THE AMSTERDAM DUNGEON

AMSTERDAMBODY WORLDS

Suzy Wong

Supperclub

Jimmy Woo

Melk Weg

Litle Buddha

Nomads

Bo Cing

Place Of Interest

Tourist Information

Restaurant

Bar

page

84

page

88

page

85

page

86

page

76

page

82

page

80

page

78

Page 73: SHOP Holland SS15

SHOP | 73

KATTENBURGERPLEIN

GE

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SA RPHATISTR A AT

S

ARPHATISTRA AT

BEURS VAN BERLAGEAMSTERDAM

GASSAN DIAMONDS FACTORY

THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM

THEATRE CARRÉ

PASSENGER TERMINAL AMSTERDAM

MUZIEK GEBOUW AAN 'T IJ

CITY HALL & OPERA

NEMO

SCHEEPSVAARTMUSEUM

TROPENMUSEUM

HORTUS BOTANICUS

ARTIS

TOURS & TICKETS

CENTRALUNDERGROUND STATION

AMSTERDAMCENTRAL STATION

Sea Palace

Club Air

Skylounge

Train Station Underground Station

page

76

Page 74: SHOP Holland SS15

74 | GUIDE

MOMO

Momo is one of Amsterdam’s

foremost culinary hotspots,

known and loved for its Asian

fusion dishes, glamorous set-

ting and excellent cocktails.

Now, Momo’s owner Yossi Eli-

yahoo and executive chef Har-

iprasad Shetty have launched

the Momo Lifestyle Book, the

ultimate cofee-table book and

collector’s item, which is avail-

able to buy at the restaurant.

Featuring photography by Dan

Perez, the book includes plenty

of pictures of Momo’s mouth-

watering signature dishes

and chic interior, alongside in-

terviews with the people who

work behind the scenes and in-

sights into the success of one of

the city’s best known gastro-

nomic destinations.

Momo,

Hobbemastraat 1,

1071 XZ Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 671 7474,

momo-amsterdam.com

* for map go to page 86

PH

OTO

: DA

N P

ER

EZ

/DA

NP.

CO

.IL

globalblue.com

Page 75: SHOP Holland SS15
Page 76: SHOP Holland SS15

76 | GUIDE

Damrak, Dam & Rokin

SIN

GE

L

DAM

PALEISSTR A AT DAMSTRAAT

S

ING

EL

SINT NICOLAASSTRAAT

R

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I N

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IN

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PU

ISR

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AT

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SING

EL

RO

KIN

AMSTERDAM EXPERIENCE ●SUPERMARKT ●

TOURS AND TICKETS ●

BIG BAZAR ●

TOURS AND TICKETS ●OPTIONS ●

TULIP HOUSE ●ETNIES ●

DRAKE'S ●SUBZERO ●

CHOCOLATERIE NELISSEN●

TULIP HOUSE ●

C&A ●

JANSEN & JANSEN ●

DELIFRANCE ●DE WAAL ●

H&M ●SWAROVSKI ●

MEDIEVAL TORTURE MUSEUM

De Bijenkor f

Peek & Cloppenburg

MADAME TUSSAUDS

THE AMSTERDAMDUNGEON

ALLARD PIERSON

MUSEUM

Stock Fresh Coffee & Sandwiches

PAPILLON DANCE CLOTHES ●

● GASSAN DAM SQUARE● OPEN SHOP● BETSY PALMER SHOES● SENZA

E.N.R.G ●SOUVENIRS ●MANDARIJN ●MANGO ●URBAN OUTFITTERS ●JAN JANSEN ●SHARP GEAR ●SHOP ROKIN ●HARRY TROMP ●SOUVENIRS ●BELCOMPANY ●KPN ●CAVE ROKIN ●DUTCH FOODGIFT ●DOUGLAS ●J.M. SCHMIDT OPTIEK ●

WEEKDAY ●P.G.C. HAJENIUS CIGARS ●

PREMSELA & HAMBURGER ●

● SVNRS

● 100% HOLLAND

● DAM SQUARE SOUVENIRS

G-STAR ●

BOFB ●

MATHIEU HART ANTIQUITIES ●

HOGENDOORN & KAUFMAN●

AGNÈS B ●

WINKEL BRILLEN ●

CLAUDIA STRÄTER ●

GIFTS XXX ●

V&D ●

● THE MILL DIAMONDS

Magna Plaza

● PARFUMERIE MARJO

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store Place Of Interest

Café

Featured In This Issue

P.24

Page 77: SHOP Holland SS15
Page 78: SHOP Holland SS15

78 | GUIDE

Heiligeweg

H

EILIGEWEG

SIN

GE

L

SINGEL

KA

LV

ER

ST

RA

AT

SID

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P

FOO

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SEIK

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GLIS

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PIR

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AG

PU

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● LY

PP

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SC

HIP

PE

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● M

.A.C

.

● L'É

TOILE D

E SA

INT H

ON

OR

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● IC

E WA

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● D

IES

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XP

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IPLIN

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AN

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● A

LLSA

INT

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● K

IEH

L’S

● S

AB

ON

● H&M

● N

YC C

OLLEC

TION

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue Café

BAR ITALIA

Housed within an historic

building, Bar Italia is part res-

taurant, part café, part espresso

bar, which all helps

to make it as popular in the

daytime as it is after dark.

Enjoy light bites such

as smashed avocado on toast,

pancakes and burgers in the

café, or opt for authentic Italian

dishes from the restaurant

menu, including pizza, mush-

room risotto and tagliatelle

with lamb ragu. There’s also

a great selection of classic cock-

tails and DJ sets several nights

a week.

Bar Italia, Rokin 81-83,

1012 KL Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 620 2442,

bar-italia.nl

* for map go to page 80

PH

OT

O: I

VO

DE

BR

UIJ

N

P.39

Page 79: SHOP Holland SS15

Шоппинг на 16% выгоднее, когда вы совершаете покупки с Tax Free

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Page 80: SHOP Holland SS15

80 | GUIDE

Kalverstraat, Spui & Sint Luciensteeg

SPUI

NES

SINT LUCIEN

STEEG

ROKIN

SINGEL

GRIMB URGWAL

NIEUWEZIJDSVOORBURGWAL

KALVERSTRAAT

KALVERSTRAAT

ROKIN

KALVERSTRAAT

WATERSTONES ●

ALYSSA, 1 S ●

LOST B ●

VILA ●

SNEAKERS ●

HUNKEMÖLLER ●

VANS ●

MANFIELD ●

H.E. BY MANGO●

MONKI ●

SUPER DRY STORE ●

AKTIE SPORT ●

MISS SIXTY/ ENERGIE ●

LYPPENS &

SCHIPPER ●

SIX ●

THE LEATHER CLUB ●

FOSSIL ●

PIECES ●

H&M ●

MANFIELD ●

GEOX ●

HEMA BEAUTY ●

SISSY BOY ●

KALVERTOREN ●

SWATCH ●

AMERICAN TODAY ●

MARKS & SPENCER ●

ROXY ●

XENOS ●

ROYAL DELFT

● EXPERIENCE

● CAMPER

● DE TUINEN

● PRO

● KPN

● TIMBERLAND

● SKECHERS

● THE BODY SHOP

● SACHA

● BOOTS SHOES

● REUTER DIAMONDS

● LEVI’S

● VERO MODA

● VODAFONE

● INVITO

● CINDERELLA

● CLAUDIA STRÄTER

● NIKE AMSTERDAM

● ICI PARIS XL

● BART SMIT

● BAKKER BART

● SCAMM

● V&D

NEW ENGLISH

● BOOKSTORE

SIDESTEP ●Outmeyer Coffee Corner

Café Luna

CHRISTINE LEDUC ●

● KODAK

SOUVENIRS ●CLARKS ●

FRONT RUNNER ●

HI AMSTERDAM ●PEPE JEANS ●

SABON ●

LUSH ●FOOTLOCKER ●

ECCO ●COSTES ●

H&M ●LEDER PALEIS ●

VAN HAREN ●CROCS ●

DESIGUAL ●FOOT LOCKER ●

THE PHONE HOUSE ●O'NEILL ●SCORE ●

FLOMAR ●

ESPRIT ●

● BERSHKA

● DOUGLAS

● RITUALS

● WE

PERRY SPORT● + OUTDOOR

● STORE FOR BRANDS● KIDS FOOT LOCKER

CHEESE AND MORE ● BY HENRI WILLIG

● STEPS DRESSES● TAFT SHOES

● SWAROVSKI● MORGAN

● DOLCIS● SIEBEL

● H&M

FR

ED

DE

LA

BR

ET

ON

IER

E ●

LUC

IE'S

PA

LB

O ●

● L

AU

ND

RY

IND

US

TR

IES

● T

UR

QU

AZ

E C

ITY

BV

Bar Italia

P.82

P.78

Restaurant

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Featured In This Issue

Page 81: SHOP Holland SS15

Open 7 days a week

Behind the royal palace

www.magnaplaza.nl

magna plaza amsterdam

Page 82: SHOP Holland SS15

82 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Kalverstraat North

NE

S

NIE

UW

EZ

IJDS

VO

OR

BU

RG

WA

L

K

ALV

ER

ST

RA

AT

KA

LVE

RS

TR

AA

TPALEISSTRAAT

DAM

DAM

RO

KIN

● TRÉSOR

● FRONT RUNNER

● BJÖRN BORG

● POP CULT

● FOREVER 21

● PULL & BEAR

● PIECES

● MANFIELD

● VILA

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

● MANGO

● JAMIN

● BLOKKER

● PRO 02 0

● MCDONALDS

● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR

● CITY DIAMONDS

● SUPERSTAR

RALPH LAUREN ● DENIM & SUPPLY

● SIX

● BIJOU BRIGITTE

THE STING ●

DESIGUAL ●

DE TUINEN ●

STEVE MADDEN ●

PIMKIE ●

COOL CAT ●

SACHA ●

RIVER ISLAND ●

CHASIN’ ●

BAZAR ●

SABON ●

SCORE ●

CLAIRE’S ●

TOPSHOP ●

GEOX ●

DIDI ●

STEPS ●

ZARA ●

Peek & Cloppenburg

Department Store

RITUALS

Dutch cosmetics brand Rituals

produces luxurious beauty and

home products designed to make

everyday moments more special.

Inspired by ancient Eastern tra-

ditions, Rituals’ ranges have de-

lighted beauty enthusiasts the

world over, and more than 350

international stores have opened

since the Amsterdam fagship

was founded in 2000. New for

spring/summer, the Tao collec-

tion focuses on perfecting the

balance of yin and yang, with

massage oils, body scrubs, bath

foams, fragrance sticks and

more. Featuring calming white

lotus, refreshing Chinese mint

and soothing yi yi ren, the prod-

ucts are designed to induce peace

and tranquility.

Rituals,

Kalverstraat 73,

1012 NZ Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 344 9220,

rituals.com

* for map go to page 80

Page 83: SHOP Holland SS15

Purmerend

Haarlem

Zaandam

Schiphol

Amsterdam

Zaanse Schans

FREE ENTRANCE • FREE DEMONSTRATION • FREE MUSEUM

Wooden Shoes, how are they made?

Wooden shoes have been worn in Holland for more than a 1000

years and not only are they still being worn today, but over a million

pairs are still made and sold each year. A unique collection of clogs

is on display in our Clog Museum, giving additional insight into the

historical tradition of this fascinating footwear. Visit our Workshop

for a demonstration, try some on, take photo’s and browse around.

What a great way to experience historic Holland!

Wooden Shoe Workshop ’De Zaanse Schans’ www.clogs.nl • [email protected]

Find out at the Wooden Shoe Workshop

Discover Holland, visit windmill village the Zaanse Schans

Transport from AmsterdamBy train: From Amsterdam Central Station take the train to Uitgeest

as far as Koog-Zaandijk Station and follow the signs to the Zaanse

Schans. It will take approximately 10 minutes to walk from the station

to the Zaanse Schans.

By car: From Amsterdam ring road A10 in the direction of Zaanstad.

Exit A8 direction Zaandam and then A7, direction Purmerend. Take

the f rst exit and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans.

By bus: There is a bus service (bus 391) from Amsterdam (located in

front of Amsterdam Central Station) direct to the Zaanse Schans.

Page 84: SHOP Holland SS15

84 | GUIDE

The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes W

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SHOP | 85

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86 | GUIDE

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Page 89: SHOP Holland SS15
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90 | GUIDE

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Page 91: SHOP Holland SS15

SHOP | 91

THE HAGUE

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globalblue.com

Page 92: SHOP Holland SS15

globalblue.com

92 | GUIDE

DESIGNER OUTLET ROERMOND

10am

The clothing collections

at Daniel Hechter are ideal

for those with an active lifestyle.

2pm

Baldinini enjoys a prestigious

reputation for its shoes and

leather goods.

5pm

Pick up a pair of classic

American jeans at

True Religion.

7pm

Alongside its famed Swiss

Army knives, Victorinox

ofers a range of cutlery,

watches and fragrances.

Designer Outlet Roermond,

Stadsweide 2,

6041 TD Roermond,

+31 (0)475 351777,

designer-outlet-roermond.com,

mcarthurglen.com

Opening times

Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm

Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm

HOW TO GET THERE

By car

From Maastricht take

the A73 to exit 19 for

Roermond. Follow

the signs to Roermond

and then to the

Designer Outlet.

From Eindhoven take

the Dutch A2 to exit 40

for Roermond. Follow

the signs to Roermond

(N280) and then to the

Designer Outlet.

By train

Roermond is two hours

by direct train from

Amsterdam Centraal

station, with departures

every 30 minutes.

Designer Outlet

Roermond is 15 minutes

walk from Roermond

station. When you

leave the station, cross

Stationsplein and follow

the signs to Designer

Outlet Roermond. For

train times and ticket

prices, please visit ns.nl.

Page 93: SHOP Holland SS15

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE

97 /

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

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100Lihat halaman 104 untuk terjemahan artikel ini

93

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globalblue.com

94

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

TRANSLATIONS

Кейт Мур рассказывает о

голландских модельерах,

для которых практичность и

непринужденность одежды – не

повод забывать об элегантности.

Концептуальная, инновационная,

непредвзятая и практичная – именно

так можно описать голландскую

индустрию моды. Начиная с

середины 1990-х годов местные

бренды прет-а-порте, включая

SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Claudia

Sträter и Viktor & Rolf начали

активную экспансию на европейские

рынки. Сегодня Нидерланды

превращаются в одну из ведущих

стран Европы со стремительно

развивающейся индустрией моды,

что не удивительно – помимо двух

международных академий дизайна

в Эйндховене и Арнеме, здесь

проводится большое число выставок

и шоу-показов, таких как Arnhem

Mode Biennale и Dutch Fashion

Awards.

В последние годы на фоне

остальных заметно выделяется

марка SuperTrash, занимающая

промежуточную позицию между

общедоступными и люксовыми

брендами. Ее стильные коллекции

включают практически все: от

роскошного трикотажа и элегантных

туфель на высоком каблуке до

платьев с принтами и джинсовой

одежды. «В цифровую эпоху мода

доступна каждому, но это не значит,

что каждому она по карману,

– поясняет Олджай Гюльсен,

основательница бренда. – Я надеюсь,

что SuperTrash исправляет эту

ситуацию и делает моду доступной

для большего числа женщин».

В тот момент, когда бренду

исполнилось 10 лет, его коллекции

уже регулярно выставлялись

на показах Амстердамской

Недели моды, а продукция была

представлена в более чем 2000

бутиках по всему миру, включая

фирменные магазины марки.

Коллекция сезона весна-лето 2015

вобрала в себя элементы уличной

моды и городского шика. «Здесь нет

ограничений и нет строгих правил», –

говорит Гюльсен. Забавные и в то же

время элегантные силуэты присущи

всем вещам: от драпированных

платьев и деконструктивных

пиджаков до женственных юбок с

баской в спортивном стиле. Особого

внимания заслуживает кожаная

юбка с бахромой «Stella». «Ее

можно комбинировать с вязаным

свитером или туфлями на шпильках

и блестящим топом на вечер», –

советует Гюльсен.

Сочетание нарядной и

повседневной одежды отсылает

нас к голландскому чувству стиля.

«Мне кажется нидерландки очень

практичны в выборе одежды, –

говорит Гюльсен. – Это не значит, что

44: Efortless Cool

äилософия Элегантности

Page 95: SHOP Holland SS15

95

мы предпочитаем комфорт стилю,

просто мы знаем, как соединить и

то и другое в один стильный образ».

Эмили Германс, дизайнер

популярного бренда женской

одежды MLY, не жалеет эпитетов,

описывая голландскую моду:

«комфортная, новаторская,

уникальная и слегка авангардная».

Первое, что бросается в глаза при

взгляде на коллекции MLY – это

оригинальная ткань, зачастую

разработанная самой Германс

и состоящая из экологически

чистой пряжи и биоразлагаемых

волокон – дизайнер известна своей

тягой ко всему натуральному. В

дизайне одежды Германс делает

ставку на яркие оттенки и смелые

принты. «Девушка MLY – это

яркая личность, которая не хочет

оставаться незамеченной, –

утверждает дизайнер. – Она любит

графические принты и ценит

хорошее качество».

Желание создавать свою

ткань пришло к Германс во

время обучения в амстердамском

институте моды (AMFI). «У нас

был предмет "Дизайн текстиля", на

котором нам требовалось создать

свою собственную ткань с нуля,

– поясняет она. – С того момента

вязание стало моей страстью». В

коллекции сезона весна-лето 2015

дизайнер решила использовать

тематику, палитру и силуэты из

своих предыдущих коллекций,

чтобы создать дайджест своего

творчества. Ее многогранная и

контрастная коллекция объединила

элементы уличного стиля и

элегантной моды, слегка грубоватые

силуэты и изящные детали,

красочные графические принты и

природные узоры.

Несмотря на такое разнообразие

коллекциям MLY свойственна

типично голландская эстетика:

абсолютный комфорт с легкой

ноткой интриги. Стоит также

отметить, что все коллекции бренда

практически полностью создаются

на территории Нидерландов.

«Основные производственные

процессы осуществляются здесь,

– подтверждает Германс. – Забота

об окружающей среде является

для нас одной из приоритетных

задач, как и поддержка местной

инфраструктуры».

Марка Claudia Sträter недавно

была признана одним из самых

узнаваемых брендов женской одежды

в стране. Вряд ли во всей Голландии

найдется компания, которой бы

удалось с такой же легкостью

интерпретировать международные

тренды, адаптируя их к местным

реалиям, а безупречное качество

изделий и акцент на практичности

приходится по вкусу деловым

женщинам, ведущим активный

образ жизни. Коллекциям бренда

свойственна непреходящая

чувственность, утонченный

крой и элегантные линии: легко

сочетающиеся комбинации, платья с

принтами, а также непринужденные

костюмы приятных оттенков.

Акцент на практичности и

универсальности без ущерба

эстетике может объяснить тот факт,

почему нидерландские модные

бренды столь популярны в Европе

и за ее пределами. Нет сомнения

в том, что творения голландских

законодателей моды, от стильных

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96

комбинаций Claudia Sträter до

роскошных нарядов SuperTrash,

смогут занять достойное место в

гардеробе любой модницы. Если

модельеры продолжат развитие

индустрии в том же направлении,

нидерландская мода, не имеющая

границ и не идущая на компромиссы,

в скором времени сможет легко

покорить мир.

supertrash.com, mly.nl,

claudiastrater.com

50: Leading The Way

Впереди Всех

Обувной бренд United Nude,

возглавляемый Ремом Д Колхасом,

расширяет границы стиля и

производства. Верити Хоган узнает

подробности прошлого, настоящего

и будущего марки

История успеха United Nude

началась как в одной из сказок, – с

романтического приключения.

Креативный директор и

соучредитель обувной компании Рем

Д Колхас учился на архитектора, пока

возлюбленная не разбила ему сердце.

После этого он решил «покончить

с идеей проектирования зданий и

занялся проектированием женской

обуви». Как и любую сказку, эту

историю ждал счастливый конец.

Работами Колхаса заинтересовались

модельеры Миучча Прада и

Серджио Росси, а немногим позже он

познакомился с Галахадом Кларком,

наследником знаменитой обувной

династии Clarks, вместе с которым

основал United Nude в 2003 году.

С тех пор бренд производит

знаменитую на весь мир обувь,

отличающуюся простым, элегантным

и инновационным дизайном. Колхас

(не путать с его дядей архитектором

Ремом Колхасом) изучал

архитектуру в политехническом

университете Делфта TU Delf,

что не могло не отразиться на его

творчестве. «Дизайн новых моделей

я привык начинать с четкой и

ясной концепции, отражающей

определенную архитектурную

форму», – признает он.

С момента появления United

Nude, дизайнеры постоянно

расширяли границы возможного в

обувной сфере. «В то время обувь

была довольно скучной, осознав

это, мы решили не упускать шанс

и поделится с миром нашими

идеями», – поясняет Колхас. К

счастью, последние 15 лет принесли

в индустрию немало открытий и

революционных изменений. «Мне

кажется, что возможность быстро

обмениваться информацией через

интернет привела к буму во всех

креативных областях, включая

обувную индустрию, – считает

он. – Мы были в числе первых

производителей, решившихся

мыслить нестандартно, и я считаю,

что нашу позицию мы не утратили».

Ряд нашумевших коллабораций

помог бренду United Nude

выделиться из толпы. Среди главных

достижений Колхаса – совместная

работа с голландским дизайнером

Ирисом Ван Херпеном над девятью

коллекциями Haute Couture, создание

эксклюзивных туфель на шпильке 30

сантиметров для презентации нового

парфюма от Леди Гаги, а также

сотрудничество с архитектором

äаха Хадидом над дизайном туфель

Page 97: SHOP Holland SS15

97

Nova. «Мы работаем с теми людьми,

которые могут принести что-то

новое в нашу работу и дополнить

ее, – говорит Колхас, – людьми

с оригинальным мышлением и

идеями, людьми с большим талантом,

теми, кого мы вдохновляем и кто

вдохновляет нас».

В сезоне весна-лето 2015 бренд

продолжил радовать поклонников

инновациями, выпустив несколько

новых концептуальных моделей,

включая серию Lo Res. Сандалии

Lo Res Earth имеют все шансы

стать хитом этого сезона. Эта

обувь отличается универсальным

дизайном, обтекающей ногу

эргономичной подошвой, а также

закругленным носком и рифленой

резиновой подошвой в стиле спорт-

люкс. Популярные модели прошлого

сезона были переосмыслены и

также представлены в новой

весенней коллекции: туфли Jacky с

каблуком геометрической формы

теперь доступны в новых цветах и

материалах.

В понимании Колхаса понятие

инновация не ограничивается

новым материалом или цветом.

Дизайнер известен своей тягой

к передовым технологиям

производства, и 3D принтеры

один из ярких тому примеров. Тем

не менее, он сомневается, что эра

«напечатанной» обуви уже не за

горами. «В ближайшем будущем

3D принтеры, скорее всего, будут

применяться лишь частично для

создания небольших эксклюзивных

коллекций». Следующий проект

United Nude будет реализован

в сотрудничестве с лидером

индустрии 3D печати – компанией

3D Systems, а также пятью ведущими

архитекторами и дизайнерами.

Полученный результат будет

представлен на выставке Salone del

Mobile в Милане.

В планы дизайнера также входит

выпуск серии часов и машин Lo Res.

Кроме того, в скором времени будет

представлена новая концепция

фирменного магазина. Для бутиков

United Nude характерен темный

интерьер с индивидуальной

подсветкой для каждой пары обуви.

В будущем Колхас планирует сделать

его менее радикальным, более

практичным и подходящим для

расширяющегося ассортимента.

Несмотря на обилие успешных

проектов, самым главным

бестселлером бренда продолжают

оставаться босоножки Möbius. Они

ознаменовали собой новую эру

обувной индустрии, размыв границы

между индустриальным дизайном

и модой. Использование сплошной

пластины, соединившей подошву,

верх и каблук в одно целое, привело

к открытию новых техник и новых

материалов. Это любимая модель

Колхаса. «Пожалуй, это одно из

ключевых моих творений. Именно

ему я обязан своей профессией,

карьерой и местом жительства.

Другими словами – это не просто

обувь, которую я создал, но это также

обувь, которая создала меня».

unitednude.com

93: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру,

совершайте их с Tax Free

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping

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98

荷兰女装设计师们崇尚实用美学,创造出

44: Efortless Cool

酷感天成

美文翻译

позволят вам сэкономить на

покупках, совершенных в около

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мира.

Так почему бы не присоединиться к

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с Global Blue каждый год? Просто

найдите голубую звезду или

спросите о Global Blue и следуйте

нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине

Где бы вы ни совершали покупки,

попросите Tax Free форму Global

Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде

Возвращаясь домой, в пункте

отправления, пройдите к таможне

для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки

для получения возврата в одном из

наших офисов.

Контакты:

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+421 232 111 111

Потратьте минимум €50 и

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покупок. Пожалуйста, примите

к сведению, что конечная сумма

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комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

不失个性的休闲风格,吸引了来自国际的目

光,Kate Moore带您探索

荷兰时装常被形容为充满概念性、创新性、

开放且务实。这些令人称道的特点也意味

着,自1990年代中叶起,该国成衣品牌已开

始越来越多地引起国际关注,这股风潮由

SuperTrash、Scotch & Soda、Claudia

Sträter与Viktor & Rolf等品牌领衔。作为

全球最负盛名的两所时装院校——分别在

埃因霍温和阿纳姆——的所在地,并拥有阿

姆斯特丹国际时装周、阿纳姆时尚双年展和

荷兰时尚大奖等各项盛事,荷兰正迅速成为

欧洲领先的女装设计国度之一。

占据高街时尚与奢侈品之间的市场空

档,SuperTrash是荷兰近年来涌现的翘楚

品牌之一。品牌摩登的产品系列包含奢华针

织、气场高跟鞋、印花连衣裙与牛仔基本款

等。“在数字时代,时尚是向所有人开放的,

但这并不意味着人人都能担负得起,”品牌

所有者Olcay Gulsen解释道。“我希望Su-

perTrash能缩短这一差距,让时尚照进更多

女性的现实。”

这个最近迎来十周年纪念的品牌,时常

在阿姆斯特丹时装周上进行发布,在全球

2000多家精品店中有售,并拥有自己的品牌

专卖店。在2015年春夏,品牌展示的是“街

头时尚与都会风尚的融合——这里欢迎任

何人,期待任何事”,Gulsen表示。廓型设计

俏皮又冷艳,单品则包括褶皱连衣裙,解构

风格功能夹克,以及带有运动细节的女性化

郁金香裙。其中名为Stella的流苏皮裙脱颖

而出。“低调的搭配方法是将其与针织毛衣

组合,夜间穿着则可以搭配高跟鞋与金属元

素上衣,”Gulsen建议道。

SuperTrash将气场单品与实穿基本

款搭配在一起,体现了荷兰式的时尚品

味。“我觉得荷兰女性在穿着上非常讲求实

用,”Gulsen表示。“这并不意味着我们相较

时髦更爱舒适;我们只是比较擅长将两者融

合打造时尚造型。”

新兴女装品牌MLY的幕后推手,设计

师Emily Hermans深表赞同,她将荷兰时

装描述为“耐穿、善用创新技术、拥有独特侧

Page 99: SHOP Holland SS15

99

supertrash.com, mly.nl,

claudiastrater.com

重与理念”。MLY的服饰以独特面料而独树

一帜,这些面料许多是由Emily Hermans

亲自研发的,包括生态认证纱线和天然可生

物降解纤维:设计师以她的艺术触觉而著

称。成果就是一系列拥有强烈大胆印花的设

计系列。“典型的MLY拥趸都拥有丰富多彩

的人生,喜欢引起人们的注意,”Hermans

承认。“她们热爱印花设计也重视品质。”

设 计 师 在 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 设 计 学 院

(AMFI)学习期间,就对自行研发面料

十分热衷。“有门课叫做纺织物造型,我们

不得不从零开始创造自己的面料,”她解释

说。“从此我对织物产生了巨大热情。”在她

的2015年春夏系列中,设计师反思过往,从

之前作品中选取出不同的主题、图案、颜色

与轮廓,创造出一组千变万化的时尚拼贴。

最终成果是一个具有多面性的系列,同时带

有优雅风格与街头元素,包括装饰精致细节

的坚固廓型,色彩斑斓的几何图案与更为有

机的设计。

除去这份多元,MLY的整体美学还是

典型的荷兰风格:不造作与实穿的基础上,

平添几分个性使其更为有趣。品牌不仅在

理念上深植本土,其产品更几乎全在荷兰

生产。“生产过程中的主体部分都在这里进

行,”Hermans证实。“我们讲求环保,非常

强调就近选取技术和工厂。”

拥有几乎全荷兰班底的团队,Claudia

Sträter正成为该国最具认知度的女装品牌

之一。品牌善于将国际潮流介绍给荷兰观

众,同时其一贯的高品质与对功能性的关

注,吸引着拥有忙碌、积极生活的女性。品

牌设计风格隽永,裁剪干净,线条优雅:包

括极易搭配的单品、印花通勤连衣裙与配色

极具魅力的休闲西服。

在注重实穿与多功能性的同时不失时

尚,或许就是荷兰时装品牌持续在欧洲与世

界其他地区走俏的原因。从Claudia Sträter

的时髦单品,到SuperTrash的奢华基本款,

荷兰设计师奉上提亮大众衣橱的作品。随

着接力棒传递到下一代设计师手中——他

们将肩负继承发扬这一美学并将其推向极

致的使命——荷兰时尚进军国际的步伐势

将延续。

Rem D Koolhaas的鞋履品牌United

Nude继续创新鞋品设计与制造。Ver it y

Hogan独家访问,为您讲述品牌的过去、现

在和未来

United Nude传奇般的成功故事始于一

个浪漫的遗憾。United Nude品牌创意总

监及创始人Rem D Koolhaas在念建筑

系的时候被一位女孩伤透了心,这件伤心

往事让他移情别恋,“将建筑美学精缩于女

性纤巧的鞋品”。这个故事最终有一个美好

的结局,Koolhaas的首个设计为Miuccia

Prada 和Sergio Rossi所赏识。之后,他

遇到了Clarks家族的第七代传人Galahad

Clark,并与之一起在2003年创建了Unit-

ed Nude。

从那之后,该品牌生产出集优雅与创

意,时尚与舒适为一体的创新鞋履,并逐步

广为人知。Koolhaas在荷兰代夫特科技大

学学习建筑(不要将他同与他同名的建筑

师叔叔相混淆),他所设计鞋履外观也处处

体现着建筑学的理念。“每一双鞋子的设计

都始于非常简单的概念,或是空间概念,或

与地球引力相关,这其实也是建筑的设计方

法,”他说道。

United Nude从品牌创立之初便一直

在拓展鞋品设计的新疆界。“当时鞋子的造

型普遍枯燥乏味,我们从中看到了开创鞋履

新世界的机会,”他解释道。让人高兴的是,

在过去的十五年间,业界进行了多种尝试和

拓展,Koolhaas对这种探索非常赞赏。“

我认为互联网促进了信息共享,使得各个创

意领域交叉影响,鞋品设计也不例外,”他说

道。“我们曾是打破框架的领跑者,我想我

们现在依然是。”

诸多的高端合作让United Nude处在

行业前列。Koolhaas曾与荷兰设计师Iris

van Herpen连续合作了九次高定时装秀,

50: Leading The Way

捷足先登

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100

我设计的一双鞋,它也成就了现在的我。”

unitednude.com

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店

消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税

服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物

开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球

蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能

错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询

商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服

务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过程:

1. 消费购物

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关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后

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最低消费€50即可节约高达购买价格16%的

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93: When You Shop The World,

Shop Tax Free

畅购全球,尊享退税

Para perancang pakaian wanita di Be-

landa telah berhasil menciptakan estetika

yang layak sandang, yang menawarkan

kemudahan tanpa mengurangi mutu,

44: Efortless Cool

Keren Tanpa Repot

TERJEMAHAN BAHASA

INDONESIA

为Lady Gaga的Fame香水发布会专门定

制了一双12英寸的“恨天高”。他也曾与建

筑师Zaha Hadid合作,设计了著名的Nova

鞋。“我们喜欢与有着奇思异想的人合作,他

们才华横溢,将不同的想法带进来。我们相

异但不相斥,互相给予启发和灵感。”

在2015年春夏鞋品的设计中,该品牌已

经推出几个新的设计概念,其中就包括抽象

的Lo Res系列。Lo Res“大地”凉鞋似乎将

成为这一季的主推鞋品,中性的设计,符合

人体工程学的鞋床,加上圆润的鞋头以及借

鉴奢华运动鞋所使用的防滑鞋底,整个设计

为穿戴者提供完美的舒适感受。前几季的成

功元素也运用到这季新品中,比如Jacky靴

的几何粗跟在变换了色彩和材质之后重新呈

现在新品鞋履中。

对Koolhaas而言,创新不仅仅局限在

颜色和材料方面。他擅长开创新的制鞋技

术,他所推崇的3D打印技术便是最好的例

子。即便如此,他认为3D打印技术不会马

上为人们普遍运用。“在不久的将来,3D打

印产品仍将是针对小众客户的定制类利基

产品,比如说与时装秀合作,或是限量版设

计。”United Nude的下一个3D打印项目将

与该行业的领导者3D Systems合作,将五

位著名建筑师和设计师的鞋履作品在米兰

的Salone del Mobile展出。

生产系列手表和Lo Res汽车是Kool-

haas现在最期待的两个项目,他也期望为店

铺引入新的概念。United Nude的店铺通常

以黑色装饰搭配灯光装置为鞋品营造一种

移动的聚光灯效果,而在将来,Koolhaas希

望在店铺设计中添加一些冲击效果较小、更

能体现品牌各式设计的物品。

尽管涉猎广泛,Möbius鞋做为United

Nude的首个成功设计仍然是其立身之本。

它首次将工业设计与时尚相结合,标志着鞋

履制造业进入新领域。其所运用的将鞋底、

鞋跟、鞋床、鞋面一体成型的莫比乌斯带设

计为鞋品制造引入了创新方法和新型材料。

它仍然是Koolhaas最喜欢的设计。“他或许

是我最标志性的设计,除此之外,它也改变

了我的职业,让我投身到鞋品设计中,它改

变了我所生活的世界。换句话说,它不只是

Page 101: SHOP Holland SS15

101

tunggalnya sendiri. Untuk musim semi/

musim panas 2015, koleksinya menyaji-

kan 'gaya street fashion dan urban chic di

bawah satu atap - tempat yang bisa di-

kunjungi semua orang dan apa pun bo-

leh', kata Gulsen. Rancangan dengan

siluet yang hidup namun tampil glamor

dan beragam busana, mulai dari gaun

draperi dan jaket utilitas yang dirancang

ulang, hingga rok peplum feminin den-

gan detail yang sportif. Sebuah rok kulit

berumbai - Stella - menjadi koleksi yang

menonjol. 'Kenakan dengan sweter ra-

jutan atau sepatu hak tinggi dan atasan

metalik untuk acara di malam hari,' saran

Gulsen.

Gabungan antara rancangan yang

menarik perhatian dan busana biasa yang

ditawarkan oleh SuperTrash mencer-

minkan selera bergaya Belanda. 'Menu-

rut saya, wanita Belanda sangat praktis

dalam berpakaian,' kata Gulsen. 'Bukan

berarti kami lebih memilih kenyamanan

daripada gaya; hanya saja, kami tahu cara

menggabungkan keduanya menjadi suatu

penampilan yang modis.'

Emily Hermans, sang perancang la-

bel pakaian wanita MLY yang mulai ban-

yak digemari, sepakat akan hal ini dengan

menggambarkan mode Belanda sebagai

'pantas dikenakan, dengan inovasi dalam

hal teknik serta memiliki fokus dan kon-

sep yang unik'. Koleksi MLY tampil

menonjol berkat kain khas mereka, yang

sebagian besar dikembangkan oleh Her-

mans sendiri, menampilkan benang ber-

sertifkasi ekolabel dan serat alami yang

terurai hayati; perancang ini dikenal den-

gan pendekatan tradisionalnya. Kary-

anya berupa jajaran busana yang cender-

ung disatukan oleh motif cetak yang kuat

dan tegas. 'Karakter penggemar MLY

adalah orang yang senang dengan warna-

warni dan suka diperhatikan,' Hermans

dan menarik perhatian internasional

dalam prosesnya, seperti yang ditelusuri

oleh Kate Moore

Konseptual, inovatif, dan berpikiran

terbuka, namun pragmatis, itulah kata-

kata yang selama ini digunakan untuk

menggambarkan industri mode Belanda.

Karakter terpuji ini berarti bahwa, sejak

medio 1990-an, label pakaian siap pakai

dari negara ini mulai menarik perhatian

internasional, dengan merek-merek se-

perti SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Clau-

dia Sträter, dan Viktor & Rolf memimpin

pasar. Belanda yang merupakan tempat

berdirinya dua akademi mode ternama di

dunia, satu di Eindhoven satu lagi di Arn-

hem, serta beragam program acara yang

mencakup Pekan Mode Internasional

Amsterdam, Arnhem Mode Biennale,

dan Penghargaan Mode Belanda, telah

secara cepat menjadi salah satu destinasi

pakaian wanita terkemuka di Eropa.

Berada di antara label merek high-

street dan mewah, SuperTrash meru-

pakan salah satu merek terkemuka yang

muncul dari Belanda dalam beberapa

tahun terakhir. Koleksi kontemporernya

menyajikan beragam gaya, mulai dari

pakaian rajut mewah dan sepatu stiletto

ekspresi, hingga gaun kain cetak dan

pakaian berbahan denim. 'Di era digital,

mode dapat diakses oleh semua orang,

namun bukan berarti terjangkau oleh

semua orang,' papar Olcay Gulsen, pemi-

lik merek ini. 'Saya berharap SuperTrash

dapat menjembatani kesenjangan ini dan

menjadikan mode sebagai suatu kenyata-

an bagi lebih banyak perempuan.'

Label yang baru saja merayakan

ulang tahunnya yang ke-10 ini tampil

secara rutin di Pekan Mode Amsterdam

dan dijual di lebih dari 2.000 butik di se-

luruh dunia, selain memiliki toko merek

Page 102: SHOP Holland SS15

globalblue.com

102

garis elegan: bayangkan busana siang

dengan motif cetak yang mudah dipadu-

padankan dan jahitan santai dalam palet

warna-warni menarik.

Upaya untuk berfokus pada kelay-

apakaian dan keserbacekatan tanpa

mengorbankan gaya ini, mungkin men-

jadi alasan merek mode Belanda terus

berkembang di seluruh Eropa dan lebih

jauh lagi. Mulai dari busana chic karya

Claudia Sträter hingga busana standar

mewah dari SuperTrash, para perancang

Belanda menawarkan busana-busana

yang bisa menjadi kebanggaan di lemari

pakaian siapa pun. Dan ketika tongkat es-

tafet ini diserahkan kepada generasi per-

ancang berikutnya - yang berkomitmen

untuk menghormati estetika ini sekaligus

menciptakan terobosan-terobosan - inva-

si internasional Belanda tampaknya akan

terus berlanjut.

supertrash.com, mly.nl,

claudiastrater.com

menjelaskan. 'Dia suka desain grafs dan

mengerti kualitas.'

Perancang ini tertarik untuk

mengembangkan bahan kainnya sendiri

saat belajar di Amsterdam Fashion In-

stitute (AMFI). 'Pelajarannya disebut

dengan penataan gaya tekstil dan kami

harus membuat bahan tekstil sendiri dari

nol,' jelasnya. 'Merajut menjadi kecintaan

saya.' Untuk koleksi musim semi/musim

panas 2015, perancang ini menggunakan

suasana hati refektif dengan mengambil

tema, rancangan, warna, dan siluet dari

koleksi sebelumnya untuk menciptakan

sebuah kolase mode kaleidoskopik. Ha-

sil akhirnya menampilkan suatu koleksi

multiaspek yang menawarkan keanggu-

nan sekaligus aksen streetwear, siluet te-

gas dengan detail yang halus, pola grafs

penuh warna, dan rancangan yang lebih

organik.

Terlepas dari keragaman ini, estetika

keseluruhan MLY sangat khas Belanda:

pantas dipakai tanpa repot dengan tam-

bahan secukupnya untuk membuatnya

tampak menarik. Untuk menambah iden-

titas lokal dari merek ini, hampir seluruh

koleksinya diproduksi di Belanda. 'Bagian

utama dari proses produksi dilakukan di

sini,' Hermans menegaskan. 'Kami ra-

mah lingkungan dan memiliki fokus yang

kuat untuk terus mendekatkan pengeta-

huan dan pabrik.'

Dengan tim yang hampir seluruh-

nya dari Belanda, Claudia Sträter telah

menjadi salah satu label pakaian wanita

yang terkenal di negara ini. Merek ini

sangat mahir dalam menerjemahkan

tren internasional untuk publik Belanda,

sementara kualitasnya yang tinggi dan

perhatiannya pada fungsi, secara khusus

sangat me-narik bagi wanita sibuk dan

aktif. Rancangannya memiliki kepekaan

abadi, dengan potongan rapi dan garis-

Merek alas kaki United Nude milik Rem

D Koolhaas melanjutkan terobosan-

nya dalam hal desain dan produksi. Dia

bercerita tentang masa lalu, saat ini, dan

masa depan dalam wawancara dengan

Verity Hogan

Dongeng kisah sukses United Nude be-

rawal dari sepercik kekecewaan romantis.

Rem D Koolhaas, direktur kreatif dan

salah seorang pendiri perusahaan alas

kaki ini, berkuliah di jurusan arsitektur

ketika patah hati karena seorang gadis.

Kejadian ini membuatnya 'menurunkan

skala arsitektur ke ukuran yang pal-

ing kecil dan rentan, yaitu kaki wanita’.

Cerita ini berakhir bahagia; desain awal

50: Leading The Way

Memimpin Jalan

Page 103: SHOP Holland SS15

103

Koolhaas mendapatkan pujian dari Mi-

uccia Prada dan Sergio Rossi, sebelum

dia bertemu dengan Galahad Clark,

seorang pembuat sepatu generasi ketujuh

dan anggota dari dinasti Clark, lalu ked-

uanya meluncurkan United Nude pada

tahun 2003.

Sejak itu, merek ini dikenal meng-

hasilkan beberapa alas kaki yang paling

canggih di dunia secara teknis dengan

rancangan yang dapat langsung dikenali

berkat kegamblangan, keanggunan, dan

inovasinya. Koolhaas (orang yang ber-

beda dengan Rem Koolhaas, pamannya

yang juga seorang arsitek) mengambil

jurusan arsitektur di Universitas Teknik

(TU) Delft), dan ilmu yang didapatnya

di sana sangat jelas tampak dalam ran-

cangan sepatunya yang artistik. 'Untuk

setiap rancangan, saya selalu mulai dari

konsep yang sangat jelas dan dasar, yaitu

bermain dengan ruang atau gravitasi,

yang dapat didefnisikan sebagai suatu

pendekatan arsitektur,' akunya.

Rancangan United Nude selalu

menampilkan terobosan-terobosan di

bidang alas kaki, bahkan sejak awal la-

hirnya merek ini. 'Di masa itu, sepatu

secara umum agak membosankan, jadi

kami melihat peluang yang baik untuk

menyajikan sepatu yang berbeda dengan

cerita baru,' Koolhaas menjelaskan. Un-

tungnya, dalam 15 tahun terakhir, indus-

tri ini mulai mau mengambil risiko yang

lebih besar, sebuah perkembangan yang

disambut baik oleh Koolhaas. 'Saya pikir

kemudahan berbagi informasi melalui

Internet juga menjadi penyebab perkawi-

nan silang besar-besaran di segala bidang

kreatif, termasuk sepatu,' tegasnya. 'Kami

adalah salah satu perintis yang keluar

dari batasan-batasan ini, dan saya pikir

masih hingga sekarang.'

Sejumlah kolaborasi mencolok telah

membantu United Nude tetap me-

mimpin di depan. Koolhaas bekerja sama

dengan perancang asal Belanda, Iris van

Herpen, dalam sembilan pertunjukan

pentas busana Haute Couture secara ber-

turut-turut, menciptakan sebuah rancan-

gan pesanan khusus untuk Lady Gaga

dalam acara peluncuran parfumnya,

Fame (dengan hak 30 cm), dan bekerja

sama dengan arsitek Zaha Hadid un-

tuk menciptakan Nova Shoe yang unik.

'Kami bekerja dengan orang-orang yang

menawarkan hal-hal baru ke pasar,' kata

Koolhaas. 'Orang-orang yang cukup ber-

beda dengan kami, namun cukup serasi

untuk mendapatkan kekuatan yang lebih

besar melalui kerja sama, orang-orang

dengan bakat besar, serta mereka yang

terinspirasi oleh dan menginspirasi kami.'

Untuk musim semi/musim panas

2015, merek ini terus berinovasi dan

telah meluncurkan beberapa konsep

baru, antara lain jajaran Lo Res. Sandal

Lo Res Earth tampaknya akan menjadi

salah satu alas kaki populer musim ini;

dengan rancangan uniseksnya, sepatu ini

memiliki bantalan kaki ergonomis yang

sesuai dengan kaki pemakai, sedangkan

bagian jari kakinya yang membulat dan

sol karet bergerigi memberikan nuansa

sport mewah. Keberhasilan dari musim

sebelumnya juga telah digagas ulang un-

tuk musim semi: sepatu bot Jacky dengan

tumit geometrisnya yang tebal, sekarang

tersedia dengan bahan dan warna baru.

Bagi Koolhaas, inovasi tidak hanya

terbatas pada warna dan bahan yang

baru. Perancang ini dikenal sebagai pe-

rintis teknik manufaktur baru dan sistem

cetak 3D yang dipeloporinya menjadi

contoh utama. Meski begitu, dia meya-

kini bahwa perlu beberapa lama hingga

sepatu pompa cetak menjadi sesuatu

yang biasa. 'Dalam waktu dekat, cetak

Page 104: SHOP Holland SS15

globalblue.com

104

3D mungkin hanya akan berfungsi seb-

agai metode produksi yang lebih eksklusif

untuk ceruk pasar berskala kecil, misal-

nya untuk pertunjukan pentas busana

atau rancangan edisi terbatas.' Proyek

cetak 3D United Nude berikutnya akan

diproduksi bersama pemimpin pasar in-

dustri ini, 3D Systems, serta akan mem-

pertemukan lima arsitek dan perancang

terkenal untuk menciptakan sepatu-

sepatu yang akan dipamerkan di Salone

del Mobile di Milan.

Jajaran desain jam tangan dan mobil

Lo Res adalah dua prakarsa mendatang

yang saat ini paling membuat Koolhaas

bersemangat. Perancang ini juga ingin

memperkenalkan sebuah konsep toko

baru. Toko United Nude biasanya me-

nampilkan dekorasi gelap dengan in-

stalasi lampu yang memberikan gerak,

suasana, dan sorotan pada sepatu-sepa-

tunya; di masa mendatang, dia ingin

menciptakan sesuatu yang sedikit kurang

ekstrem dan sedikit lebih praktis untuk

mencerminkan tawaran produk yang

lebih luas.

Terlepas dari perbauran ini, sepatu

Möbius masih tetap menjadi desain Unit-

ed Nude yang paling dikenal dan meru-

pakan kesuksesan pertamanya. Sepatu

ini menandai sebuah era baru dalam

manufaktur alas kaki dan yang pertama

me-ngaburkan batas antara desain in-

dustri dan mode. Penggunaan lembaran

tunggal untuk membentuk sol, hak, ban-

talan kaki, dan lidah sepatu menciptakan

suatu penemuan metode konstruksi dan

material baru. Rancangan ini masih

menjadi favorit Koolhaas. 'Ini mungkin

rancangan saya yang paling ikonis, na-

mun selain itu, sepatu ini juga yang mem-

buat saya mengubah profesi, memulai

karir saya, membuat saya berpindah tem-

pat tinggal. Dengan kata lain, ini bukan

hanya sepatu yang saya ciptakan - namun

juga sepatu yang membentuk diri saya.'

unitednude.com

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Page 108: SHOP Holland SS15

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