Shampoo

How to formulate solutions

Lesson Topics

• Shampoo Market Overview

• Consumer Problems

• Surfactant Science

• Formulating a shampoo

• Testing

Lesson Objectives

• Shampoo Market Overview– Introduce the shampoo market

• Consumer Problems– Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix

• Surfactant Science– Discuss surfactant properties– How they are relevant to cosmetics

• Formulating a solution– Dissect a shampoo formula– Explaining what ingredients are used and why

• Testing– Explain how to test a shampoo

Shampoo

Shampoos

• Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and leave it a more manageable state

• Solutions - one of the simplest types of cosmetic formulas

Shampoo Market

• Overall Market– Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion

worldwide

– Amount of money spent in US on Shampoo/conditioner

• $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)*

*Does not include Walmart

US Top Brands

BRAND

• Pantene – P&G• Head & Shoulders – P&G• Herbal Essences – P&G• Suave - Unilever• Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal• Tresemme – Alberto Culver• Matrix (Biolage) – L’Oreal• L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal• Dove - Unilever• Private Label• John Frieda - Kao

$ MARKET SHARE

• 16• 7.6• 7.5• 6.9• 6.6• 4.0• 3.9• 3.8• 3.3• 3.3• 3.2

*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009

US Top Brands

BRAND

• Suave - Unilever• Pantene – P&G• VO5 – Alberto Culver• Herbal Essences – P&G• Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal• Head & Shoulders – P&G• L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal• Tresemme – Alberto Culver

Units sold (millions)

• 20.9• 19.5• 11.8• 11.5• 10.6• 7.5• 5.4• 5.2

*Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009

Shampoo Market

• Types of shampoo (marketing)– Normal– Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc)– Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore)– Strengthening– Curl– 2 in 1– Color treated– Color Enhancing– Baby (tear-free)– Natural

Shampoo Market

• Specialty– Anti-dandruff– Anti-lice– Hair loss treatments

• Significantly Different– Powdered shampoos– No-rinse shampoo– Co-washing

Consumer Problems

• Clean hair / oil removal• Moisturize• Easier to comb• Prevent frizz• Shine• Volume• Medicated

– Anti-dandruff– Anti-lice– Hair loss

Addressing the problems

Problem• Clean hair / oil removal• Moisturize• Easier to comb• Prevent frizz• Shine• Volume• Medicated

– Anti-dandruff– Anti-lice– Hair loss

Technology• Surfactants

• Conditioning agents

– Anti-dandruff agents– Acaracides– Minoxidyl

Surfactant Science

Surfactants

• Defined– Molecules compatible with water & oil– Surfactant = Surface Active Agent

Surfactant Molecule

Hydrophilic = Lipophobic

Hydrophobic = Lipophilic

Surfactant in solution

• Reduces surface tension

• Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil)

• Forms micelles to suspend particles

Surfactant

• Typical surfactant mixture– Surfactant is mixed with oil– Lipophilic tails orient with oil– Polar heads orient with water– Micelles are created

• Micelle formation

• Critical Micelle Concentration

Surfactant Solutions

• Depending on concentration different structures are formed

• Simple shampoos are basically surfactant solutions (no oils)

Surfactant Structures

Surfactant Functions

• Key in Shampoos– Cleaning / Detergency– Wetting– Dispersing– Foaming– Thickening– Conditioning

• Other functions– Emulsification– Solubilization– Penetration enhancement– Antimicrobial activity– Opacification

Detergency

• Two types of “dirt” in hair– Solid particulate– Oily deposits

• Solid particulates– From pollution, hair products– Adhere via Van der Waals forces– Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of

surface

Detergency

• How surfactants remove liquids– Remove dirt & grease from surfaces– Mechanism

• Surfactant orients along oil/water interface• This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution• Rinse water removes the oil micelle

Wetting

• Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water

• Water with surfactant can spread better on the hair

Without Surfactant With Surfactant

Dispersing

• Particles are suspended in the shampoo / water solution

• They are removed upon rinsing

Foaming

• Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium

• Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of liquid films

• Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal of dirt– Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really

mean the product cleans better

Thickening

• Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected by – Concentration of surfactant– Salt concentration– pH

Types of Surfactants

• Anionic – Negatively charged

• Amphoteric (Zwitterionic)– capable of both positive & negative charges

• Cationic– Positively charged

• Nonionic– No charge

Anionic Surfactants

• These are the primary shampoo surfactants

• Alkyl Sulfates– Examples - SLS

• Alkyl Ether Sulfates– Example – ALES

• Alpha – Olefin Sulfonates– Examples

Anionic Surfactants

• Other types– Sulfosuccinates– Alkylbenzene Sulfonates– Acyl Methyltaurates– Acyl Sarcosinates– Acyl Isethionates– Acyl Polypeptide Condensates– Monoglyceride Sulfates– Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates

Anionics

• Why use them?– Excellent detergency– Relatively inexpensive– Good foaming– Highly stable

• Drawbacks– Can be irritating– Drying to hair

Amphoteric Surfactants

• Can have a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the solution

• Zwitterionic

• Types– Cocamidopropyl Betaine– Cocoamphopropionate– Sodium Lauraminopropionate

Amphoteric Surfactants

• Why use them?– Good Detergency– Less Irritating than anionics– Helps thicken system– Helps improve foam

• Drawbacks– More expensive– Do not foam well enough on their own

Non Ionic Surfactants

• Surfactant molecules with no charge

• Types– Fatty Alkanolamides

• Lauramide DEA• Cocamide DEA

– Amine Oxides• Lauramine Oxide• Stearamine Oxide

Non Ionic Surfactants

• Why use them?– Foam enhancer– Reduce irritation– Increase viscosity– Conditioning effect– Anti-static effect– Solubilize fragrances– Baby Shampoos

• PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate

• Drawbacks– Safety issues– More expensive– Do not foam well on their own

Cationics

• Positively charged surfactant molecules

• Types– Cetrimonium Chloride– Stearylalkonium Chloride

• Not used for shampoos – Don’t clean as well– Don’t rinse as well– Don’t foam as well

Shampoo Formulations

Shampoo Characteristics

• Aesthetics– Appearance

• Clear• Pearlized

– Thickness (Viscosity)

• Foam– Creamy, rich to thin & loose

• Harshness• Conditioning effects

Basic types of Shampoos

• Normal

• Volumizing

• Moisturizing

• 2 in 1

• Baby

• Natural

Shampoo Type Comparison

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Extra

Body

Mois

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Baby

Natur

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Foam Quality

Conditioning

Harshness

Shampoo Performance

Shampoo Formula

• Water• Surfactant• Secondary Surfactant• Preservative• Conditioning agent• Color• Fragrance• Feature Ingredients• Specialty ingredients

Shampoo Formula

• Secondary Surfactant– Modify viscosity– Improve foam– Reduce irritation

• Aesthetic ingredients– Opacifying agent– Clarifying agents– Colorants

Shampoo Formula

• Conditioning agents– Silicones– Cationic polymers

• Preservatives• Fragrance• Feature Ingredients• Formula Adjusters

– Acid– Chelating agents

Cosmetic Formula sheet

Normal Shampoo Formula

Activity of Ingredients

• Many raw materials are sold diluted• % Solids = Raw material – water

• Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids

• 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9% solid ALS

• % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids

Volumizing Shampoo Formula

Volumizing Shampoo

• Higher level of surfactant

• Volumizing polymer (optional)– Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride

Moisturizing Shampoo Formula

Moisturizing Shampoo

• More gentle detergents

• Added conditioning ingredients– Polyquaternium-7– Dimethicone Copolyol

• Pearlized – (optional)– Glycol Stearate

2-in-1 Shampoo Formula

2 in 1 Shampoo

• Added conditioning ingredients– Dimethicone– Polyquaternium-10

• Pearlized– Glycol Stearate

• Stabilizing agent (optional)– Carbomer

Baby Shampoo Formula

Baby Shampoo

• More mild detergent system

• Compromise qualities for mildness– Foam– Detergency– Conditioning

• Minimize fragrance

Natural Shampoo Formula

Natural Shampoo

• Sulfate free detergent

• “Gentle” preservatives– No Parabens– No DMDM Hydantoin

• Natural extract ingredients

• Synthetic fragrance free?

Making the batch

Equipment

• Beakers• Mixers• Thermometer• Stand• Hot plate• Scale• Weigh boats• Plastic wrap

Formulating Equipment

Shampoo Batching tips

• Cover batch with plastic wrap

• Record time, temp, changes

• Pre-weigh ingredients

• Weigh container prior to making batch– Compensate for water loss

• Take specification readings at the end– Adjust as needed

–

Shampoo testing

• QA/QC Tests

• Performance Tests

Shampoo testing

• QA/QC Tests

• Specifications– Viscosity– pH– Appearance– Odor

Shampoo testing

• Use Tests– Try product yourself– Panel testing

Shampoo testing

• Tress testing– Combing– Feel / Softness– Shine

Shampoo testing

• Foam testing– Blender– Shake test

Shampoo testing

• Safety testing– Patch testing– Irritation tests

Shampoo Stability testing

Shampoo Summary• Shampoo Market Overview

– Big compared to other cosmetics

• Consumer Problems– Cleansing, conditioning primary problems

• Surfactant Science– Makes oil & water more compatible– Responsible for cleaning hair

• Formulating shampoos– 6 types of shampoos

• Testing– Use tests, lab tests, and QC tests

Shampoos