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    FormulatingFormulating

    Making cosmeticsMaking cosmetics&&

    personal care productspersonal care products

    Perry RomanowskiPerry RomanowskiMidwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic ChemistsMidwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

    10/0/0!10/0/0!

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    "genda"genda

    #aming Chemicals#aming Chemicals

    Raw materialsRaw materials

    Formula typesFormula types

    Creating and testing formulasCreating and testing formulas

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    Personal Care & CosmeticPersonal Care & Cosmetic

    ProductsProducts

    "ll of them are re$uired to ha%eist of 'ngredients ()'*

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    FormulatingFormulating

    #aming Cosmetic Chemicals#aming Cosmetic Chemicals

    Chemical #omenclatureChemical #omenclature '#C' +ictionary'#C' +ictionary (11th edition*(11th edition* egal names & cross referencesegal names & cross references

    SourcesSources

    RegulatoryRegulatoryinfoinfo

    "pplication"pplication

    infoinfo

    www,ctfa,orgwww,ctfa,org

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    FormulatingFormulating

    #aming Cosmetic Compounds#aming Cosmetic Compounds

    Chemical #omenclature SystemsChemical #omenclature Systems Semisystematic methodSemisystematic method

    -ses common names-ses common names

    ow molecular weight compoundsow molecular weight compounds '-P"C ('nternational* System'-P"C ('nternational* System

    .he one taught in college.he one taught in college

    ighly structuredighly structured

    Figure out chemical structure from nameFigure out chemical structure from name '#C' Con%entions'#C' Con%entions

    lends oth systemslends oth systems

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    Carons '-P"C '#C' '#C'Main Chain Stem name Fatty acids Fatty alcohols

    2 )ctane Caprylic Caprylyl

    3 #onane Pelagronic #onyl

    10 +ecane Capric +ecyl

    11 -ndecane -ndecanoic -ndecyl1 +odecane auric auryl

    14 .ridecane .ridecanoic .ridecyl

    15 .etradecanoic Myristic Myristyl

    16 Pentadecanoic Pentadecanoic Pentadecyl

    17 e8adecanoic Palmitic Cetyl

    1! eptadecanoic Margaric eptadecyl12 )ctadecane Stearic Stearyl

    13 #onadecane 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

    0 :icosane "rachidic "rachidyl

    FormulatingFormulating

    #aming Cosmetic Compounds#aming Cosmetic Compounds

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    '#C' is a little different than '-P"C'#C' is a little different than '-P"C Fatty "cids StemsFatty "cids Stems

    1 Caron; straight chain fatty acid1 Caron; straight chain fatty acid

    '-P"C it

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' System'#C' System Source +eri%ed StemsSource +eri%ed Stems

    Most ingredients are not pure utMost ingredients are not pure ut

    mi8turesmi8tures

    Coconut oil; palm kernel oil;Coconut oil; palm kernel oil;

    soyean oilsoyean oil"mmonium Coco9Sulfate"mmonium Coco9Sulfate

    Cocotrimonium chlorideCocotrimonium chloride

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    FormulatingFormulating

    Fatty "cid +istriutionsFatty "cid +istriutions

    Acid C Coconut Palm Soybean Tallow Sun Flower

    Caproic 6 0.5 - - - -

    Caprylic 8 7.0 - - - -

    Capric 10 6.0 - - - -

    auric 1! "8.0 - - - -#yri$tic 1" 1%.0 !.0 - &.5 -

    #yri$toleic 1" - - - 1.0 -

    Pentadecanoic 15 - - - 0.5 -

    Palmitic 16 %.0 "!.0 11.0 !5.& 6.&

    Palmitoleic 16 - - - ".0 -

    #ar'eric 17 - - - !.5 -Stearic 18 &.0 ".0 ".0 1%." ".1

    (leic 18 6.0 "&.0 !1.0 "0.8 !!.%

    inoleic 18 1.5 %.0 55.5 !.5 66.0

    inolenic 18 - - 8.5 -

    Arac)idic !0 - - - - 0.!

    *e)enic !!

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' system'#C' system +eri%ati%es+eri%ati%es

    :thers; name oth alkyls add ether:thers; name oth alkyls add ether

    an 12 C & 17 C linked y ) is Stearyl Cetyl :theran 12 C & 17 C linked y ) is Stearyl Cetyl :ther

    :sters formed y reacting alcohol with acid:sters formed y reacting alcohol with acid

    #amed in 4 parts#amed in 4 parts

    Myristyl Stearate = Myristyl alcohol reacted withMyristyl Stearate = Myristyl alcohol reacted with

    Stearic acidStearic acid

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    FormulatingFormulating

    "n e8ample"n e8ample

    CH3-(CH2)-14-CH2 - OH

    Cetyl Alco)ol Palmitic Acid

    HOOC -(CH2)-14-CH3

    O

    ||CH3-(CH2)14-CH2 O C -(CH2)14-CH3

    Cetyl Palmitate

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' system'#C' system "lkanolamides 9 "lkyl groups"lkanolamides 9 "lkyl groups

    reacted with amino groupsreacted with amino groups

    RC) > fatty acid radicalRC) > fatty acid radical

    ? > 9CR@C? > 9CR@C)) A > 9 or a lower alkyl groupA > 9 or a lower alkyl group

    :8amples:8amples

    +:" = diethanolamine+:" = diethanolamine.:" = triethanolamine.:" = triethanolamine

    Cocamide +:"Cocamide +:"

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' system'#C' system Buaternied materialsBuaternied materials

    Fatty acids linked to an ammonium ionFatty acids linked to an ammonium ion

    Maintain a positi%e chargeMaintain a positi%e charge

    add the suffi8 D9iumE depending on numer ofadd the suffi8 D9iumE depending on numer of

    sustitutionssustitutions

    Cetrimonium ChlorideCetrimonium Chloride

    Buaternium & Poly$uaternium denoted y aritraryBuaternium & Poly$uaternium denoted y aritrary

    numersnumers

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' system'#C' system Poly$uaternium955Poly$uaternium955

    %inylpyrrolidone and $uaternied imidaoline%inylpyrrolidone and $uaternied imidaoline

    monomersmonomers

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' System 9 Silicones'#C' System 9 Silicones Silicones 9 non9caron asedSilicones 9 non9caron ased

    ingredientsingredients

    +imethicone (+imethyl+imethicone (+imethyl

    polysilo8ane*polysilo8ane*

    +imethicone copolyol (has+imethicone copolyol (haspolyo8yethylene groups to impro%epolyo8yethylene groups to impro%e

    water soluility*water soluility*

    CyclomethiconeCyclomethicone

    Silo8aneSilo8ane

    Silica = Si)Silica = Si)

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    arieties of Siliconesarieties of Silicones

    +imethicone Copolyol

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    FormulatingFormulating

    '#C' System 9 Polymers'#C' System 9 Polymers

    PolymersPolymers

    P:G (Polyethylene glycol*P:G (Polyethylene glycol*

    PPG (Polypropylene glycol*PPG (Polypropylene glycol*

    #umer designates moles of ethylene o8ide#umer designates moles of ethylene o8ide"dapted from trade names"dapted from trade names

    CaromerCaromer

    #ylon97#ylon97

    #oteH Compounds are often referred to y#oteH Compounds are often referred to ytheir trade namestheir trade names

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    FormulatingFormulating

    ColorantsColorants

    6,6'-(1,4-anthraquinonylenediimino)di-m-toluenesuloni! a!id6,6'-(1,4-anthraquinonylenediimino)di-m-toluenesuloni! a!id

    disodium saltdisodium salt

    "reen # (C$ 61#%&)

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    FormulatingFormulating

    ColorantsColorants ColorantsColorants

    -nwieldy chemical names replaced-nwieldy chemical names replaced

    F+&C (Food; +rug & Cosmetic*F+&C (Food; +rug & Cosmetic*

    +&C e8t (+rug & Cosmetic e8ternal use*+&C e8t (+rug & Cosmetic e8ternal use*

    Recently changed to e more gloalRecently changed to e more gloaleg, F+&C Aellow no, 7 is now Aellow 7 (C' 16326*eg, F+&C Aellow no, 7 is now Aellow 7 (C' 16326*

    526 appro%ed colorants for cosmetics526 appro%ed colorants for cosmetics

    #atural 'ngredients#atural 'ngredientsIaterIater

    :8tracts use latin names ("loe aradensis eaf :8tract *:8tracts use latin names ("loe aradensis eaf :8tract *

    lanolin; menthol; eeswa8; tea tree oillanolin; menthol; eeswa8; tea tree oil

    Perfume is Just called FragrancePerfume is Just called Fragrance

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    FormulatingFormulating

    ist of 'ngredients ()'*ist of 'ngredients ()'*

    'ngredient aeling -S egal re$uirement

    -se standardied names

    Proper order

    'n order ao%e 1K

    elow 1K is aritrary e8cept

    Colors at the end

    Fragrance allergens

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    FormulatingFormulating

    :8ercise = ist of 'ngredients:8ercise = ist of 'ngredients

    'ngredient aeling

    Ihere is the 1K lineLIhere is the 1K lineL .ipsH.ipsH

    Fragrance is rarely o%er 1KFragrance is rarely o%er 1K

    "dJustment ingredients are low"dJustment ingredients are low

    #atural sounding ingredients are lower#atural sounding ingredients are lower

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    FormulatingFormulating

    Ihere is the 1K lineLIhere is the 1K lineL

    air Shampoo formulaair Shampoo formula Iater; "mmonium auryl Sulfate; "mmonium aureth Sulfate; SodiumIater; "mmonium auryl Sulfate; "mmonium aureth Sulfate; So