US PATENT No. 7,101,538

Formulating Clear ConditioningShampoo

Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

Asian Hair Care:• Evolving market, with 2-in-1 still the preferred form• Clear, conditioning, silicone-free formulations• Cost/benefit important for new consumer class

Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

High-End Hair Care• Focus on safety and sustainability,

yet maintaining performance• Consumers attracted to silicone-free, sulfate-free

and quat-free claims

Other Requirements of Formulators

• Globally approved ingredients

• Cost targets

• Ease-of-use ingredients

• Compatibility with surfactants

• Ecological standards (sustainability, biodegradability)

Typical Formulation

Function % (w/w)

Cleansing and FoamingPrimary & Secondary Surfactants 10.0 – 30.0

Texture and Sensorial FeelPearlescence Wax, Thickeners & Effect Pigments 0.1 - 6.0

Conditioning AgentsCationic Additives, Oils, Polyquats,

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride0.1 - 5.0

AuxiliariesPerfumes, Claim Actives 1.0 - 3.0

Microbiological StabilityPreservatives 0.7 - 1.2

Water Q.S. to 100.0

Desirable Claims and Functions

• Superior conditioning

• Increased shine and softness

• Improved sensorial experience during application

• Broad compatibility

• Mild and biodegradable

• Silicone-Free claims

Novel Active Polymer

INCI • Polyester-11

Unique Chemical Structure • polyesteramine

Patented

Market examples

Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

Conditioning Effect • Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling

Sensory Assessment during Application • Lathering and Slip• Foaming Degree and Stability

Effect on Dry Hair • Softness and Shine• Manageability and Volume• Build-up

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Phase Ingredient (INCI) #624-091% (w/w)

#624-090% (w/w)

ADeionized Water 68.22 68.72

Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50 0.50

BSLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86 7.86

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67 16.67

C Citric Acid (25%) Q.S. Q.S.

DCocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 3.50

Polyester-11 0.50 0

E Preservative 1.00 1.00

F NaCl Salt 2.25 2.25

Total 100.0

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Sensory Assessment: During Application

Polyester-11 improved overall sensory experience after application.

-2

-1

0

1

2Distribution

Flash Foam

Foam VolumeFoam Stability

Slip

0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark Control

Polyester-11 improved overall conditioning performance.

* Chosen Benchmark is leading silicone-free China market brand for 2-in-1 shampoos.

Control had no conditioning attributes.

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

Wet Combing Wet Detangling Dry Combing Dry Detangling

% F

orce

Red

uctio

n

0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark*

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Polyester-11 improved overall sensory experience during application.

Sensory Assessment: Dry Hair

-2

-1

0

1

2Silkiness

Moisturization

Shine

Volume

Manageability

Overall Appearance

0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark Control

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Treated Tress

SEM of Tress Treated With Test Formulation vs. Control

Polyester-11 tress had cuticles with flatter scales. This reduces friction when combing and holds in moisture for improved hair strength.

Control

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Phase Ingredient (INCI) A% (w/w)

B %(w/w)

C %(w/w)

ADeionized Water 68.52 68.52 68.52

Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.25 0.25 0.25

BSLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86 7.86 7.86

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67 16.67 16.67

C Citric Acid (10%) Q.S Q.S Q.S

D

Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 3.50 3.50

Polyester-11 0.20 - -

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - 0.20 -

Polyquaternium-10 - - 0.20

E Preservative 1.00 1.00 1.00

F NaCl Salt 2.00 2.00 2.00

Total 100.0

(#624-112)

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

Polyester-11 is significantly clear compared to formulations containing commonly used conditioning agents.

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

Polyester-11 provided a comparable conditioning effect on wet hair compared to current popular conditioning actives.

Conditioning Assessment – Wet Hair

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

Wet Combing Wet Detangling

% F

orce

Red

uctio

n

0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

Polyester-11 surpassed Guar and PQ-10 in softness, shine and overall appearance of dry cleansed hair.

Sensory Assessment – Dry Hair

0.00

0.40

0.80

1.20

Softness Shine Overall Appearance

Sens

ory

Asse

ssm

ent

0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10

Silicone-Free Shampoo - build up evaluation Phase Ingredient (INCI) (w/w)%

A67.72

Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50

BSLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67

C Q.S.

D

Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50

2.00

Glycol Distearate 1.00

1.00

E

Polyester-11 0.50

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20

Polyquaternium-10 0.15

FSodium Xylenesulfonate 1.50

Neopentylglycol Diheptanoate (and) Isododecane 1.00

G Preservative 1.00

H NaCl Salt 2.20

Total 100.00

Silicone-free shampoo with Polyester-11

(#624-118F)

1INOLEX 2Tri-K 3Ashland 4Solvay Novecare 5Stepan 6AkzoNobel

Silicone-free formulations with Polyester-11 had no build-up on hair after repeat application.

Build-up Evaluation

Instrumentation• Minolta Chroma Meter CR-300 with Data

Procedure• Immerse shampooed tresses into 200ml of

0.1% solution of red 80 Dye for 60 seconds• Take out tresses from solution and remove

excess dye with #2 and #3 fingers• Rinse the dyed hair in 300ml DI-water for

10 seconds• Hang hair tresses to dry overnight• Read color index0.00

0.10

0.20

0.30

0.40

0.50

0.60

0.70

0.80

0.90

1.00

dE

0.460.38

Col

or In

dex

Cha

nge

of W

ashe

d H

air

1 Wash w/0.5% Polyester-11 5 Washes w/0.5% Polyester-11

Silicone-Free Shampoo - build up evaluation (#624-118F)

INGREDIENTS (INCI Name) %w/w

A Deionized Water 48.17

BDecyl Glucoside 11.00

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 11.00Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 13.00

CPEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.00

PEG-150 Distearate 3.00

D

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.00

Polyester-11 0.33

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 0.67Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol 1.50

E Fragrance 0.33

Total 100.00

Sulfate-Free and Silicone-Free Clear Conditioning Shampoo (#638-120)

Superior Performance

• Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling

• Lathering and Slip• Foaming Degree and Stability

• Softness and Shine• Manageability and Volume• Build-up

Formulating Tips

1. Choosing the right thickener.

2. Use polyesteramine as a conditioning agent, either alone, or combined used with Guar, polyquats, etc. for the optimizing effect.

3. When using oils or essential oils, mix well with polyesteramine before adding into the surfactant mixture.

4. Polyesteramine will also help to bring fragrance into the formulation with improved clarity.

5. Adjust the salt level after adding polyesteramineto optimize the viscosity of SLES/SLS or ALES/ALS system.

6. Suggested use level of 0.1~2% for clear conditioning shampoo.

Summary: New Technology, Feel and Performance

• Superb performance in clear shampoos.

• Superior anti-static and combability performance.

• Benefits evident even at low active (0.2%) levels.

• Synergistic effects with other conditioning agents.

• Improves the performance of economy formulas.

• Easy to incorporate.

• Use level: 0.2 – 2%.

Polyesteramine:

Patented