Pro Beauty Jan Feb 2016

Jan/Feb 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

Black is thenew black

Point of contactFront desk staff

Skills setState oF

trainingFuture watchSpa & Ma trends 2016

Tantalising teaserProfessional Beauty Cape town Preview

aFriCan Skin treatMentS

cape town

Cal-mo august 2014 Fp.indd 1 2016/01/19 11:38 AM

online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016

In this issue...

16

Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news

55 Hair news What’s hot and happening in

the hair industry

60 Product news All the latest launches

64 SAAHSP The latest news from

SAAHSP

Business15 Insider Tracking the industry with

stats

16 Ask the experts All your questions answered

19 The customisation of treatments

Services that ‘speak’ to the client

20 On the frontline Building a strong front

desk staff

23 An ideal blend The perfect mix of online

and offline platforms

Spa Focus24 Top 10 trends for 2016 What this year holds for the

spa industry

28 Glenburn Spa turns 10, changes name

Muldersdrift spa undergoes metamorphosis

Nails52 The perfect nail recruit Sourcing nail salon staff

Medical Aesthetics57 Medical aesthetics

trends for 2016 Experts give their predictions

Features33 Rosacea reality Treating a ‘rosy’ skin disorder

34 The return of the ‘apothecary’ Dr Gobac opens first skin clinic

36 Dark and really, really lovely African skin treatments

42 Curtain-raiser for Cape Town Professional Beauty Cape Town

Show Preview

46 Pure and simple Natural and organic products

48 A solid grounding Are our graduates good

enough?

48

36

46

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016 online at www.probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com

On the coverCover source:www.shutterstock.com

Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 [email protected]

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]

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Printers ABC Press 021 5343210

It’s time to take out the crystal ball and see what this year may hold for the

industry. In terms of the spa sector, owners and managers must ensure, first

and foremost, to keep the client’s spend budget in line with value for money

services. Another trend identified in our article on spa trends 2016, is the need

for spas to tap into the Generation Z market, previously not considered an

appropriate age group for spas.

On the medical aesthetics front, non-surgical anti-ageing treatments

such as toxins, dermal fillers and threads, are likely to grow in popularity

during this year. In terms of peels, the ‘less is more’ approach is proving

a trend, where milder peels that are performed frequently are preferred

to very strong peels.

This edition of Professional Beauty puts the focus on an important

issue that is threatening the industry – that of the move by the AHPCSA

(Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa) to take over ‘non-

therapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’. Should this

go through no therapist will be able to perform these services unless

registered with the AHPCSA and could only perform the services within

a registered practice. Think of the dire consequences such a ruling

would have on spas – where massage is far and away the most popular

treatment – and on graduates wanting to work on cruise liners. The

industry needs to stand together to fend off this threat.

Joanna Sterkowicz

Editor

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business tips

5

Located in the retail precinct of

Melrose Arch, Johannesburg,

the Harnn stores offers skin

and body care products, home spa

products, lifestyle fragrances, interior

sprays, diffusers, candles and herbal

tea infusions.

In an exclusive interview with

Professional Beauty, the brand’s

founder, Paul Harnn, said: “We are

confident that Harnn will do well in

South Africa. It is unique as it is 10%

natural and contemporary, as well as

being Asian-inspired.

“In addition, Thailand is a popular

tourist destination for South Africans

and many will already be familiar with

our brand and products.”

Harnn reveals that he had to submit

News in pictures

News

a comprehensive business plan to

Thailand, which included detailed

market research, before he was given

the exclusive rights for distribution in

South Africa.

“We aim to expand into the African

Market over the next two years,” says

Harnn.

The Harnn team researched many

different locations for their first

South Africa store before deciding on

Melrose Arch.

“It is a good fit for us as the entire

Melrose Arch precinct caters for

the more seasoned/well-travelled

shopper and offers many high end

luxury brands. We will also be opening

a Harnn Spa in the not too distant

future,” comments Harnn.

The Hitech Group

has announced that

Medilase is now the sole

distributor in Southern

Africa for systems

from Barcelona-based

company, INTERmedic,

a prestigious manu-

facturer of medical

light-based systems.

During a recent visit

to Barcelona, Hitech

MD Wicus Olivier (left)

was introduced to some INTERmedic systems by the

company’s Ricard Serra (middle) and Francisco Javier

Arcusa.

All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Expanding on the brand’s Asian

holistic approach, Harnn noted

that he believes in establishing the

natural balance between body, mind

and environment.

“We use natural active ingredients

to help restore that healthy balance

through the five-sense experience of

sight, sound, taste, touch and scent,”

he explained.

Originally an architect, Harnn

finds designing for the brand

much more exciting than being an

architect. “I spend most of my time

on the creative side of the business,

designing packaging, retail shops,

blending essential oils, testing

formulations and creating the menu

for our tearoom.”

Hitech takes on INTERmedic

Customer service was the focus of a lively and

interactive panel discussion at a Professional

Beauty Network Breakfast event held at 54 on

Bath in Johannesburg in November. Speakers

were Deena Govender (BMW South Africa (Pty)

Ltd.), Francisco Garcia (Amani Spas), Wesley

Grobler (The Saxon), Jade Kirkel (Sorbet), and

Diana van Sittert (Dermalogica).

Luxury Thai lifestyle brand Harnn has opened its first retail concept store in South Africa, making this the 14th country in which the brand is distributed.

Paul HarnnHarnn opens in SA

Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

6 industry news

News in brief■ Black Pearl launches in Florence: Michelle Roberts

of Black Pearl SA and brand

ambassador Candice Lavoie

visited the Four Seasons Firenze in

Florence late last year to introduce

the market to the Black Pearl

experience.

New MD for Environ Distribution SAWayne La Grange has been announced as MD of Environ Distribution South Africa (EDSA). La Grange was formerly EDSA general manager, having joined the company in 2014.

In his new position La Grange will

direct and control the distribution

company’s operations, and give

strategic guidance and direction to

the board to ensure that the company

achieves its mission and objectives.

“I stand firmly behind the conviction

that brands don’t make companies great.

Great people make brands that lead

companies to greatness,” says La Grange.

Face & Body Synergy, a medical

aesthetics clinic based in White

River, celebrates its 10th anniversary

on 1 April.

Run by Dr Hendrik Toerien and

wife Marinda, Synergy had humble

beginnings, with only a single

therapist and a hairdresser. Synergy

now offers medical aesthetics

treatments using devices such

as the Palomar laser, an IPL skin

rejuvenation and hair removal

system, as well as a Cooltech Fat

Freeze machine.

“Our passion is weight loss and

being able to assist people to feel

and look good, as well as building

He is passionate about what

Environ stands for, stating that it

is not a cosmetic company but a

company that markets a product

created by one of the world’s

leading aesthetic surgeons – Dr Des

Fernandes – who cares about the

health of people’s skin.

Medical aesthetics clinic turns 10

their self-esteem,”

says Marinda Toerien.

She notes that

Dr Toerien has won

the Slender Wonder

Doctor of the Country

four times in a row.

■ First Soprano Ice for Mauritius: Best Lasers has sold the first-

ever Soprano Ice in Mauritius, to

Geraldine Chasteau Fayd’herbe of

Samaya Beauty Lab.

■ 3D-Beauty lashes at Fairway Spa: The Fairway Spa at the

Fairway Hotel and Golf Resort

now offers 3D-Beauty Eyelash

Extensions. These FDA-approved

lashes are developed in the US.

■ Brow Bar takes on LoLa: The Brow Bar has added LoLa

Brows to its treatment offering.

This salon treatment uses semi-

permanent colour to achieve

three-dimensional brows, which

can last up to three weeks.

■ ESSE honoured for community support: Trevor Steyn, founder

and CEO of Esse Organic Skincare,

has received a Bioprospecting

Award for supporting local

communities through profit-

sharing, where indigenous

biological resources are utilised in

the brand’s products.

After months of

renovations, My Skin

Centre has relaunched

at the Clearwater

Mall, Roodepoort. The

aesthetic centre has

doctors and skincare

professionals on call

to offer anti-ageing

treatments.

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industry news

8

News in pictures Bezuidenhout joins Radiant

– Renaissance Day Spa; Business

Excellence KZN – Briget Filmer Spa

and Skin; and Up & Coming – Crystal

Clear.

Twincare lauds top achieversOn 27 October, Twincare International acknowledged its top achievers at the inaugural Twincare Gala awards ceremony held at Cantare, Montecasino, in Johannesburg.

“The purpose of this

glamorous event is to

inspire spa and salon

owners to continue elevating

standards of excellence, which raises

the bar for the industry and clients

alike,” said Twincare CEO Stav

Dimitriadis.

Natural Expressions won

Twincare’s Salon of the Year Award,

with the Loyalty Award going to

Face Value.

Winners in the Guinot categories

were: Salon of the Year JHB – Natural

Expressions; Salon of the Year KZN

– Brookdale Health Hydro; Salon of

the Year CT – Yemaya Spa & Hair;

Salon of the Year PE – Purebliss;

Top Retailer – Wendy’s House of

Beauty; Business Excellence JHB

Bianca Bezuidenhout

has joined Radiant

Healthcare as sales

representative.

On completion

of her Somatology

degree at Camelot

I n t e r n a t i o n a l

Houghton in

Johannesburg in

2012, Bezuidenhout

worked for Steiner

as an aesthetician on the Carnival Valor.

She subsequently fell in love with medical

aesthetics and result-driven treatments at

Sprout Medical Aesthetics.

“I’m excited to join Radiant Healthcare and

am up for the challenge of selling amazing

devices to the medical aesthetics industry,”

says Bezuidenhout.

Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt

Matis category winners were: Salon

of the Year JHB – Matis Institute

Rosebank; Salon of the Year KZN –

Pravina’s Hair and Beauty Centre;

Salon of the Year CT – House of

Freya; Salon of the Year East London

– The Beauty Clinic; Top Retailer –

Matis Institute Fourways; Business

Excellence – The Beauty Clinic; and

Up & Coming – Beauty by Chantelle.

RégimA won two awards at the prestigious Pharmaceutical

& Cosmetic Review Awards held in October – for Best

Product Range 2015 in South Africa and Best New

Product across five categories (Innovation; Formulation;

Packaging; Marketing; and Regulations). Pictured at the

awards ceremony is RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt (centre).

Salon of the Year

Loyalty Award

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10 industry news

BTL won two awards at the recent My

Face My Body UK Awards, namely the

Best Body Reshaping Procedure for

BTL Exilis Elite and the Most Innovative

Aesthetic Treatment for BTL Intima.

Exilis Elite also received a Highly

Commended in the Best Skin Tightening

Treatment category. In addition, BTL

made the Elle Beauty Treat List 2015.

Meanwhile, BTL Aesthetics South

Africa has introduced two country

managers to its growing team: Sylvia

Drake and Zama Chiliza.

Drake owned and managed a laser

and skincare clinic for seven years,

while Chiliza is a qualified somatologist

who has completed a New Managers

Programme for Wits Business School.

Says Best: “Being in the industry,

I could see how well our Alma

Laser devices were doing in

the market, particularly the laser hair

removal system. Before we opened GLO

in October, we travelled to London with

the aim of opening a salon there. But

we decided to get the first one up and

running in South Africa and then to offer

Beauty salon chain Amazi, which

only employs women from previously

disadvantaged communities, opened

its first-ever salon in Cape Town’s

Maynard Mall in December.

Spearheaded by businesswoman

Divya Vasant, Amazi was conceived

with a strong social purpose

and overarching attitude of

empowerment. The brand found a

natural synergy with the SEW (Sorbet

Empowering Women) Foundation.

Says Vasant: “Sorbet founder Ian

Fuhr has always wanted to build a

brand that would gave back in a real

BTL latestNew salon concept launched

it as a franchise model. Our second

salon will open in a few months.”

Best and Caldeira were at pains to

bring ‘a European feel and vibe’ to

GLO.

“Most salons have very subtle music

whereas we have upbeat music and

very happy, bubbly staff,” continues

Best. “Clients have commented to

us about how they really do love the

different vibe in our salon.”

For laser hair removal, GLO uses

Alma Lasers Soprano Ice and for body

contouring, Alma Beauty Reform. The

salon also offers beauty treatments

such as facials, massages and waxing.

In-house products include Lilian Terry

and Lamelle.

Andy Best and Claudio Caldeira have opened the GLO Laser and Beauty salon at the Parkview Shopping Centre in Pretoria.

GLO opens its doors

and tangible way. Ian met with

Tracey Chambers, the CEO of The

Clothing Bank (TCB) and, using

the experience of TCB, we came

up with the idea of home-grown,

micro-beauty businesses that

provide women with the skills and

tools to offer beauty services to

their communities. Amazi is to be

franchised.”

Zama Chiliza Sylvia Drake

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12 industry news

Over 30 beauty industry

stakeholders attended the

meeting, held at the Radisson

Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton.

Sandy Fuhr and Menna Kleine,

both board members of SAAHSP

(South African Association of Health

& Skincare Professionals), explained

how, should the AHPCSA succeed

in opening a sub-register for ‘non-

therapeutic massage, reflexology

and aromatherapy’, then all beauty

therapists, skincare therapists and

somatologists who perform these

skills would have to register with the

AHPCSA. They would only be allowed

to perform such services in registered

practices, and not salons or spas.

Said Fuhr: “Since 1972, the

beauty industry has been more or

less regulated by SAAHSP – we are

Beauty industry faces up to AHPCSA threatOn 9 December, Professional Beauty convened an industry gathering in Johannesburg to discuss the ramifications of the AHPCSA’s (Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa’s) aim to open a sub-register for ‘non-therapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’.

SAQA-appointed, but we are not a

statutory body. Today we accept nails

and medical aesthetics as part of our

industry. We believe that the AHPCSA

wants to usurp our business.

“The AHPCSA Act was originally

introduced for homeopathy. Anyone

who registers with AHPCSA is

assigned a practice number and your

client becomes a ‘patient’. You may

not retail any products from your

practice and you may not advertise or

use the word ‘clinic’ in your practice

name. Furthermore, you cannot hand

out gift vouchers and you can only

work with people who are registered.

“If this AHPCSA ruling goes

through, day spas and destination

spas will not be allowed to offer

massage treatments and beauty

school graduates won’t be able to

work on cruise liners.”

Broadcaster and former Services

Seta CEO, Ivor Blumenthal, suggested

the industry form a confederation

representing all the professional

designations. “You need to sell

these designations to your clients.

Your message to the public as a

confederation should be – don’t do

business with someone who isn’t

designated. If you want to fight the

AHPCSA – don’t bother sending letters

to ministers – get your customers

behind you, take the matter to the

courts and get everyone to register

with your confederation. You need

to speak to government in a unified

voice.”

Professional Beauty’s Phil Woods,

who moderated the meeting, stressed

that the underlying idea was for the

beauty industry to regulate

itself, rather than to be subject

to the AHPCSA.

“We need a mechanism

for broader engagement

with industry, the public and

government,” said Woods, “a

confederation that says – we

are the industry voice.”

Professional Beauty held a

follow-up meeting at its offices

in Ferndale on 15 January,

where it was agreed that Fuhr,

Woods and Mariska du Plessis

would meet with AHPCSA

chairperson Dr Craig Wright

before the end of January.

Menna Kleine, Phil Woods and Sandy Fuhr

After

Before

Fa l l i n l o v e w i t h y o u r s k i n & w a t c h y o u r b u s i n e s s g r o wFa l l i n l o v e w i t h y o u r s k i n & w a t c h y o u r b u s i n e s s g r o w

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HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN

DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH

DECEMBER 2014?

InSIDeR SAlOnWe asked you how

treatment business was

in December 2015 and

75% of you said it was

up; many attributed this

to the festive season as it seems people had more time

and money to spend.

Thirteen-percent of you reported that business was

down. Another 12% said that it was much the same as

the year before.

Regarding retail business, 63% of salons said sales

were up – many attributed this to new products

being introduced, as well as increased marketing and

advertising. Thirty-seven percent of you reported that

retail business was the same as the year before.

The average treatment room occupancy for the

month of December

was 83%.

We asked how you fill

in appointments when

business is slow, 62%

of you offer specials.

Of this percentage,

one salon SMS-es

clients with specials

and does mail drops in

the area. Another salon

offers value added

treatments.

We asked if you

offer skin peels in your

salon, 63% said yes and

37%, no.

The month in numbers

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

83%

37% BETTER

13% SAME

50% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN


DECEMBER 2014?

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN


DECEMBER 2014?

87% BETTER

0% SAME

13% WORSE

InSIDeR SPAAn overwhelming majority of spas reported an increase in

treatment business over December, as compared to the same

time last year. One destination spa experienced a large influx

of guests due to its hotel introducing self-catering units.

Another spa almost doubled its revenue because of extended

operating hours and therapists successfully upgrading most

of their treatments. One spa reported a 25% increase in

treatment business but had raised its prices by between 10

and 20%, while another spa offered guests complimentary

hydro facilities for treatments valued at R800+.

Half of spas polled experienced a decrease in retail

business. One spa noted that clients buy their retail products

before the holiday season commences. Conversely, another

spa had a number of foreign visitors, who proved easy to

retail to.

There was quite a variance in treatment room occupancy,

with some spas reporting 90% and others as low as 39%.

Only a small percentage (28%) of spas offer peels as

stand-alone treatments but some offer rejuvenations facials

that include an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) peel.

All of you actively fill empty slots in your

appointment schedules, by calling up

clients and working off cancellation

lists, and offering specials during

quiet periods. One spa has

therapists handing out promotional

pamphlets, while another has a

marketing team that focuses on

midweek groups.

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

68%

75% BETTER

12% SAME

13% WORSE

Insiderbusiness trends

15

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, east London and Port elizabeth to track business in December 2015.

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN


DECEMBER 2014?

63% BETTER

37% SAME

0% WORSE


Trevor Steyn is an organic chemist and the founder of Esse Organic Skincare.

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Ask the experts

What exactly does probiotic mean and why are probiotic ingredients beneficial for the skin?

The discoveries made by the

Human Microbiome Project

have remodelled our approach

to skin care and offer us new

techniques to slow the effects of

ageing on skin.

It is now clear that skin is an ecology,

with more than 10 microbes for every

human cell. These microbes are

essential to the optimal functioning

of skin and current skincare regimes

ignore this basic fact.

Probiotics are microbes that are

good for you and a prebiotic is a

'food' that favours the growth of

these microbes.

Probiotics can shift the skin’s

ecology to favour a diverse and

harmonious ecosystem that is

healthy enough to resist attacks from

pathogens and to reduce the impacts

of ageing on the skin.

Incorporating live probiotics into

conventional skincare products is

not generally feasible. Most products

contain water and preservatives are

required to prevent spoilage. These

preservatives, by definition, kill

microbes – so the probiotic cfu per ml

would be zero.

Claims in cosmetics are justified in four different levels:Level 4 – These products use the

‘broth’ from a microbial soup.

Microbes are grown on a substrate

(think of this as a watery solution

of microbial nutrients) and then the

probiotic microbes are filtered off.

The ‘broth’ is the remaining solution

(which has the byproducts of the

microbes in it – not the microbes

themselves). This is used as an

ingredient in a final cosmetic product.

Good skincare results can sometimes

be obtained using this technique, but

as a probiotic ingredient, this is a bit

of a grey claim.

Level 3 – These probiotic extracts are

called lysates because the probiotic

cells are ruptured – obviously killing

them in the process. In this technique,

the probiotics are again cultured in a

nutrient-rich substrate but instead of

filtering them off, the cells are broken

so that their cell contents leak out

before the mixture is filtered. This

method results in an ‘extract’ that

contains the cytoplasm (cell contents)

of probiotic microbes. Using this as

a probiotic claim is more acceptable.

Level 2 – In this technique, the

microbes are kept whole but they are

killed with heat. This process is called

tyndallisation and here the culture

of probiotics is heated to 60°C and

cooled again over three days. These

probiotics can still dock onto skin

cells but obviously can’t grow and

divide to significantly alter the skin’s

microbiome.

These three levels of probiotic

supplementation are the easiest

to incorporate into cosmetic

preparations. The ingredient is simply

added to the formulation with no real

change necessary in the preservative

system or in the rest of the product.

These three levels of probiotics cater

for the majority of claims in skincare.

Level 1 – This is the incorporation

of live probiotic microbes in the

final product. There are a number of

difficulties in this process. Firstly, the

use of a preservative system would kill

the microbes, so the product needs

to be preservative free. Secondly, it

is exceedingly difficult to ensure that

the probiotics are not killed during

the production process. Thirdly, there

are storage considerations for the

final product – if the temperature

drops too low, then the water in the

probiotic cells will freeze and the cell

membrane of these cells will break

and most of the cells will die. If the

temperature rises above 40 °C, the

enzymes in the live cells will start

to denature and, again, most of the

probiotics will die.

To date only one company has

made claims that include the use

of live probiotics in a skincare

preparation. Esse Organic Skincare

has overcome these challenges in its

Esse Plus Probiotic Serum and Esse

Sensitive Serum – both contain one

billion live probiotics per millilitre.

ask the experts

16


17 ask the experts

DO YOU HAVe AnY QUeSTIOnS TO PUT TO OUR eXPeRTS?Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to [email protected]

I’ve heard about oxygen (O2) infusion therapy – what exactly is it and what are the benefits for the skin?

Every cell of the body is living and breathing

and needs oxygen to survive. Inevitably the

oxygen levels within our skin cells fall as

we age, which can lead to loss of elasticity and

bounce, and the formation of lines and wrinkles.

O2 infusion therapy uses powerful bursts of

compressed air to infuse the skin with oxygen to

help visibly plump out fine lines and increase skin

firmness.

Whilst helping restore elasticity, O2 infusion can

also stimulate tissue repair, as well as heal and

rebalance the skin. When combined with high-

potency actives, the oxygen infusion facilitates

an increase in the depth of product penetration

and therefore the effectiveness of the active

ingredients is far greater. Nutrients, peptides, anti-

oxidants and essential oils are able to reach deeper

into the skin, providing intense nourishment and

allowing it to repair itself from the inside out.

I recently entered the permanent make-up industry and would like to know how I can ensure that the device I am using is hygienic.

A permanent make-up device should be designed

in such a way that there is no transmission of

possible blood-borne pathogens from one client to

the other. In the old days, machine parts were metal and

not disposable, and had to be sterilised by the technician.

Today there are cartridge systems available for cosmetic

tattooing that are for once-off use and disposable.

The most important factor is that every surface area

inside the machine that came into contact with a client’s

blood and the pigment should be disposable. This means

the outside casing, the outside needle cap, the needle itself,

the needle shaft and the bit behind the needle should all be

disposable and sealed off from the motor of the machine.

The best option is using a device that provides an integrated

cartridge system where everything is built-in and sealed-off.

Furthermore, the outside of the device should be covered

with barrier film and replaced between clients. Needles

MUST be disposed of in a responsible manner by using

a sharps container and having a medical waste removal

company dispose of it.

noella Gabriel is MD and co-founder of premium British skincare brand Elemis, which celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2015.

nikki van Gend of Image Division is a qualified somatologist and permanent make-up artist and trainer (Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional). Van Gend is a board member of PCASA (Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa) and is the authorised distributor for LiPigments in South Africa.

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Magazine Advert Garden Mint FOOT SOAK.pdf 1 2015/12/07 2:45:45 PM


business tips

19

I’ve just returned from a

whirlwind trip to Hong Kong

where I attended Cosmoprof

Asia, a leading trade fair for the

beauty and wellness industry.

I love Hong Kong – the efficiency,

pace, energy and excitement of the

city.

The first few days were spent

traipsing the aisles and stands of the

show where I met fabulous people

and learned new things, but also

landed up with a bad back and a

very tired body. Anyone who does

this show will know what I mean!

Luckily, part of my job is to check

out what’s new in the spa world

and to compare our South African

services to international services.

I was therefore forced (and not

reluctantly I might add) to do the

spa circuit of leading hotels.

I started at The Four Seasons

Spa, checking in online, a seamless

process. I’d booked a deep tissue

massage and was amazed at how

my therapist immediately zoned in

on my body’s needs. She customised

my treatment according to my

aches and pains. That was also my

experience at the Mandarin Oriental

and all the luxury spas I visited.

Customised treatments are the

new thing. Not a cheap thing (R2,500

for an hour treatment in a top Hong

Kong spa), but a good thing!

People are looking for a treatment

that ‘speaks to them’; something

personal. They want an authentic

experience, but much more than

the décor or the ambiance of the

spa, they want a high standard and

personal treatment.

The customisationof treatments

Debbie Merdjan reflects on her recent experiences of Hong Kong’s luxury spa circuit.

Personal touchThree key words describe the

experiences I had everywhere:

• Quality

• Personal

• Customised

Truthfully, any treatment should be

a little customised at the very least.

No-one wants a treatment where it

feels like the therapist is just going

through the motions. So whatever

the treatment is, the therapist should

always make it feel customised for

that particular client.

Be personal. Be aware. Pick up on

the client’s needs.

ConsistencyBut remember that consistency is

really important too. If you are one

of a chain, you cannot suddenly be

offering anything and everything. This

doesn’t mean you cannot be clever. An

option is to offer a standard treatment

but to allow the client to choose their

oils and perhaps choose which part

of the body needs more work than

others.

Another option is blocking out

a set time, talking to the client and

customising accordingly.

We have to continue to evolve

and offer our clients what they want

to buy, rather than expecting people

to buy what we want to offer. And

while we do this, we need to maintain

standards and be practical.

I learned so much during my trip to

Hong Kong. It was exciting, stimulating

and informative and I cannot wait

to put some of these new ideas into

practice. Watch this space! PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

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It is not only the receptionist’s

behaviour and customer service

that is summed up as soon as a

client walks in, but the surrounds,

ambience and appeal of your spa

or salon weigh in as well.

Building a strong front desk does go

back to hiring. We often transfer one

of our therapists to front desk, simply

because it’s a natural progression to

a managerial position, or perhaps the

therapist’s treatments are curtailed

due to carpal tunnel syndrome. But

have you ever stopped to ask yourself

whether this is the right reason for this

specific position?

Front desk staff require a very

distinct set of abilities; yes it’s a

bonus if they have a beauty therapy

background, but it is not the most

essential quality. Emphasis should

be placed on the following skills:

strength in both verbal and written

communication; good interpersonal,

organisational and people skills;

attention to detail; multitasker; can

work under pressure; able to deal with

customer complaints; tech-savvy; and

the ability to solve problems.

Look out for the following

personality strengths in front desk

staff – energetic person, approachable,

friendly disposition, flexible and a

team player.

AccuracyCorrect data capturing and mining

can broaden insight to various

factors affecting business, revenues,

operations and customer relationships.

simply put, your front desk can make or break you. The customer’s first real and last encounter with your brand is through your front desk. Ayesha Rajah reveals how to make your front desk excel and boost business.

On the frontline

business tips

20

Emphasise accuracy to front desk staff

when capturing data, as this will assist

in targeting specific demographics

and personalising promotions.

You can take it one step further and

have front desk staff ascertain drink,

snack, music and room temperature

preference, making the client’s

experience more special.

Implement a client record card

and follow-up system. A great way to

measure client satisfaction is to make

a follow-up call and ask very specific

questions related to service, ambience

and overall customer experience.

Training Yes, product training would be an

asset to have in the front desk position

but don’t stop there. Customer service,


business tips

21

Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

telephone etiquette and general

organisational skills are essential, so

send the person for the appropriate

training.

Write out SOPs (Standard

Operating Procedures) for the front

desk position to outline the standards

that should be maintained. This will

also streamline orientation for future

staff.

Front desk etiquetteWe live in a time-starved era of instant

gratification, so your clients expect

you to be available 24/7. The reality

is that your response time needs to

meet those expectations or clients will

go elsewhere.

Here are some tips on client

expectations and response time:

answer the telephone within three

rings; e-mail within the same day (24

hours maximum); Facebook in the

course of three or four hours maximum

(the usual expectation is an immediate

response).

Today clients receive SMS birthday

wishes from just about every company

with which they deal, like insurance

companies and large retail stores. So,

be memorable – instead of sending just

another cookie cutter text message,

rather have your front desk make a

personal call wishing the client a great

day, or send out a personalised e-card.

The grooming and appearance of

your front line staff says a lot about

your brand, so insist that uniform, hair,

nails and make-up adhere to the SOPs.

Clients want to feel validated, so put

a strong emphasis on acknowledgment

for every client that steps through

the door, by giving them a smile or a

simple head nod of acknowledgement

if you are on the telephone.

It’s all in the little details and

relationship-building starts as soon

as the client walks in. Have your front

desk staff prep every morning re

clients’ preferences (e.g. what drink to

offer when they arrive) and to enquire

and engage in conversation around

their wellbeing.

Boosting salesIf your front desk staff has never

experienced a treatment, they have no

insight on the treatment procedure.

Similarly, if they have never felt the

textures of the product, how are

they expected to upsell specialised

treatments or recommend correctly?

Give front desk staff talking points

to assist in retailing, like having their

nails painted in the latest colours,

lighting a massage candle, displaying

a tester of a newly launched product

and having your monthly promotions

visible in reception.

Front desk staff must be able to

handle customer complaints in a

prompt and efficient manner. With the

reach of social media, one customer

complaint can reach thousands of

potential clients and have a negative

effect on your brand.

Let’s face it; front desk staff are

always in the firing line, so enable

them with the tools to handle difficult

situations. Always acknowledge that

the client has a problem and escort

them away to a more private space;

listen to them and don’t interrupt,

repeat key phrases back to the client

to get to the root of the complaint, call

in a manager to resolve the problem,

or compensate by offering another

treatment.

Incentivising front desk staff keeps

up morale and they will work harder

to ensure business growth. They also

need to eat, live and breathe your

brand identity, not only to be the face

of your business, but for the rest of the

team to follow. PB

FRONT DESk STAFF ESSENTIALSEmphasis should be placed on the following skills:

• Strength in both verbal and written communication

• Good interpersonal, organisational and people skills

• Attention to detail

• Multitasker

• Can work under pressure

• Able to deal with customer complaints

• Tech-savvy

• The ability to solve problems.

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For your FREE entry, pre-register at

www.probeauty.co.za

unlock your options!

Educationail workshop Medical Aesthetics Conventions

Stock up on show specials Source new products

Focus on future and professional development

the key to your beauty business potential


business tips

23

As human beings we

like to embrace all our

senses when investing

in a purchase. We like

to smell subtle scents,

feel textures, taste or sample (if

possible), look at the object and make

a purchasing decision based on the

questions we subconsciously start

asking ourselves while deciding on a

purchase.

However, life has become busier.

Shopping, browsing and wandering

through malls is often seen as a luxury

due to the demands of work and life in

general. Today’s consumers live multi-

dimensional, multi-platform lives,

where the online and offline worlds are

complex and dynamic.

Although the online and offline

worlds are merging, business owners

need to remember that the two worlds

(online and offline) can support each

other and should be offered as a dual

service to your consumers. This should

be an ‘AND’ in your business and not

an ‘OR’.

Consumers enjoy both the brick

and mortar instore experience and the

online experience, depending on the

item they are looking to purchase and

how their buying habits are influenced

at the time. Having both platforms of

the retail experience offers the most

desirable options to your customers,

and attracts more footfall to both your

store and your online platform.

What they wantBut how do we know what our

customers want and how to balance

the online and offline mix for our store?You need to understand your

customers so as to offer the right

mix of online and offline and

hence the best service on both

platforms.

Due to the convenience

of online shopping, you

need to ensure your in-store

experience is one of the best

in the business. Employees

must elevate the customer

experience and treat each

consumer as an individual

with their own needs, buying

patterns and preferences.

This tailored service will make you

the ‘go to’ person in your field of

expertise.

Online consumers have erratic

shopping habits and this could

be due to lack of brand loyalty.

Consumers frequently switch

brands due to any online promo or

offer that they may come across. A

major focus is needed for creating

consumer loyalty online.

Increasing popularityAccording to Forbes Magazine, online shopping is predicted to

increase by 62% in 2016, due to

consumers feeling more confident with

online sales.

As a business offering online sales,

you need to ensure your website

has a simple, easy to use design and

call to action buttons to entice the

consumer. Alternatively, if you don’t

feel comfortable with this new online

world you can also rely on an expert or

specialist in the field who can coach and

guide you in the right direction.

If you don’t have the ultimate mix

of online and offline, you may be left

behind as our industry and the consumer

evolves. PB

An ideal blend

lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She recently joined the Cape Town team as the regional manager.

The perfect mix between online and offline platforms is required to speak effectively to the new age consumer, writes lauren Gibson.

Shopping, browsing and wandering through malls is often seen as a luxury

24 spa focus

In the past the under-16 age group was not really

spa-appropriate. This is no longer the case. Find

ways to include the tech-savvy Generation Z into

your spa business. They are the future and they

are going to set trends in our industry. Sit with

a Gen Z and find ways to include them into the

health and wellness movement. Remember that

the Gen Z mother is your current biggest spender,

so look for ways to keep mommy and kid happy

while in your space.

3Fitness, exercise, movement and blood

flow are all current buzz words and are

causing consumers to become more aware

of the time they spend on their physical

fitness. More than ever before fitness and

a healthy lifestyle are becoming integrated

into how people live their lives.

Find ways to merge beauty and wellness

into fitness and vitality, as they are all

connected and work together. As the spa-

owner you need to make this happen, as it

won’t just land in your lap.

This is the number one trend and must be

taken very seriously this year if you want

sustainability in your business. In 2016

wellness will be more of a spoil and a luxury,

so ensure that you keep the client’s spend

budget in line with value for money.

Make sure that you marry the value the

guest is receiving with the money they are

spending. Check that clients are able to get

measureable results from their treatments so

that they return month after month and that

these spa visits remain in their budget.

1 Value for money

Gen Z, yes please!

It’s that time of year when we look to the future with ideas that can make a difference and grow the spa industry over the next 12 months, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

According to over 300 industry

professionals, ranging from spa and

salon managers and beauty therapists

to The Spa Consultants team, the

following spa trends have been

identified for 2016.

As a spa-owner and/or manager, you should look at

any way in which your business can take advantage of

these trends and find a way to capitalise on the trend in

order to build loyalty for the future.

2 Fit for life

TOP 10 trends for 2016


spa focus

25

A good facial, a brilliant wax, a fabulous

pedicure are all at our fingertips today, but the

feeling of being genuinely appreciated, loved

and wanted is what the consumer is looking for.

This feeling goes far beyond any perfect

service or awesome massage. Of prime

importance is how the customer feels in

your business, whether the feeling is one of

belonging or a sense of family, want and need;

this is followed by how good the service was.

5It’s all about the feeling

Find your cause and drive it4

Consumers are loyal to a cause so, instead of

spending a huge amount of money building

your brand, rather spend it supporting a

cause that will attract the attention of the

target market.

Be sure to support and drive events

around causes that are part of our industry.

For example, reduce your carbon footprint

and include customers in the drive, and give

rewards to those who support the cause with

you. Breast cancer and world health days are

important causes to support and drive, as is

‘Say Yes to Wellness Day’.

TOP 10 trends for 2016

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016

As a spa-owner and/or manager, you should look at any way in which your business can take advantage of these trends and find a way to capitalise on the trend in order to build loyalty for the future.

10

This is all about how ‘well’ your team is. If your

team is well in terms of stress management and

healthy lifestyle, together with fitness, vitality and

wellness solutions, the staff absenteeism rate will

drop and the efficiency rate will increase.

Total body and mind wellness goes a long way

to delivering an efficient and productive team.

6

Return on investment (ROI) is of utmost

importance to both consumer and spa

owner. Both parties want to see the best

possible outcome for their investment.

From a small and quick service,

such as a pedicure, to a more specific

service, like facial peeling, ensure return

on investment is positive. Again, only

research and trials can guide you in the

right direction. Don’t get misled by false

advertising.

9

Workplace efficiency

7If you have a treatment that is revolutionary in

terms of skin solutions, such as pigmentation

or fine lines and wrinkles, make sure you under-

promise and over-deliver. There is nothing worse

than a consumer who expects a specific result

because it is promised and receives something

totally different.

To have a happy and loyal customer, make

sure their expectations are fully met and over-

exceeded with your services. Create needs and

deliver the solutions.

Over-promise, under-deliver

ROI

Building community

Look out for non-surgical anti-ageing treatments and

carefully research them. Take care not to get sucked

into the latest trends that are not real solutions. Find the

solutions that your clients are looking for. Measure and

track them and then be sure that they tell the rest of the

market place. Consumers are looking for quicker results

and less downtime.

There is a lot out there, so research, ask and try out

all the treatments before you decide on selecting any of

them for your spa.

spa focus

26

Non-surgical solutions to stay younger longer 8

Find ways to build community with wellness. The trend of

keeping communities closer together is gaining momentum.

Communities that include wellness and spa will feature this

coming year and grow stronger and stronger going forward.


Other trendsThe aforementioned are the strongest 10

trends for the South African market for 2016,

but I want to touch on a few trends that

started last year and are gaining momentum

and should not be ignored this year.

The menu-with-an-add-on culture is huge

in any industry. Starting with a basic service

and adding on smaller and more focused

services to improve the impact is really

important.

I would suggest a really simple service

menu with only a few services and then a

range of add-ons for the guest to choose

from. These add-on services need to be

promoted by the therapist and the staff

member taking bookings. This premise

works a bit like a basic cheese and tomato

pizza before all the toppings get added.

The toppings are the additional or add-on

services.

Lastly, I want to touch on the massage

service at spas. Massage is by far the most

popular service in the industry, yet many

consumers complain about the quality of

the massage received at many spas.

This year I would focus on improving

the delivery of the massage treatment and

ensuring that the guest is blown away by the

quality of the service, as well as the smaller

elements added to the massage to make it

more impactful. Take time with your team

to review the massage service and work

together to make it amazing. For example,

make the customer stretch before and after

the massage, or play specific music to start

the treatment, etc.

Your business will do as well as you want

it to this year, so get focused, get passionate

and get planning for the best year yet. PB

27 spa focus

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.



spa focus

28

Situated in the heart of

the Cradle of Humankind

within Glenburn Lodge,

Glenburn Spa opened

a decade ago and was

independently managed by Claudia

de Kock.

Christa Badenhorst, Group

Marketing & PR – Guvon Hotels & Spas,

continues the story: “Glenburn Lodge

provided the venue, décor, marketing

and hotel infrastructure to back up

the spa, while Claudia took care of

the daily running of the spa with great

success.

“Four years ago, Guvon Hotels

bought the remaining share of the

spa and it became fully owned by

Glenburn Lodge. With Glenburn’s

25th anniversary and the spa’s 10th

Leon Bosch (operations director, Guvon

Hotels); Nigel Peel, (GM Glenburn

Lodge); Kosie Pansegrouw (MD Guvon

Hotels) and Geraldine Veldman (spa

manager)

In addition to celebrating its 10th birthday on 20 October last year and changing its name to Chicama spa, the Glenburn spa in Muldersdrift has opened its own conference venue, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

birthday, it was only natural to take

the next step and merge the two

identities. The Glenburn Spa name

will be phased out over an extended

period to ensure that we don’t alienate

our loyal customers. Management, spa

facilities and treatments, as well as

quality of service, all remain exactly

the same. Thus far there has only been

a logo update.”

She notes that the spa has been

fortunate enough to have built up

long and lasting relationships with its

suppliers. “Most of them have become

friends over the years. The Matsimela

Home Spa and TheraVine brands have

been with us since day one.”

A ‘soft refurbishment’ of the spa

was undertaken to coincide with its

10th birthday. As to changes over

the past decade, the spa’s booking

systems have been updated and

operational processes streamlined. In

addition, the gym, which was part of

the spa, fell away as it was not utilised

often enough.

‘The Grapevine’Badenhorst reports that Guvon Hotels

MD Kosie Pansegrouw came up with

the name of ‘The Grapevine’ for the

spa’s conference venue.

“In keeping with the vineyard theme

Glenburn Spa turns 10, changes name


Care for Compromised Skin

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of the spa, the conference venue has beautiful vineyard

wallpaper, transporting conference delegates to their

own conference winelands during their meeting,” she

explains. “We introduced ‘The Grapevine’ to target

conference groups who want to include wellness in

their business meetings. ‘The Grapevine’ has its own

private entrance at the

side of the spa.”

Guests can book a half-

day ‘serious’ conference

and then move over to

the spa for treatments, or

the other way around.

“The fun option is to

make a day out of it –

to have breakfast in the

spa, go for a treatment,

then keep your robes

on to move to ‘The

Grapevine’ for your first

strategy session,” states

Badenhorst.

Hydro richnessGlenburn Spa has several hydro facilities for guests

to choose from, namely a jacuzzi, two hydrobaths, an

indoor pool and a steam room/rasul chamber.

“Glenburn Spa is very popular with couples and the

steam room, jacuzzi and hydrobaths particularly lend

themselves to quality together time. Our ‘Togetherness

Delight’ package, which includes the rasul chamber and

jacuzzi, is particularly popular,” comments Badenhorst.

The spa’s signature treatment is the Red Wine

Sachet Massage & Merlot Hydrotherapy Spa Bath. A

warm infusion of herbs, minerals and red wine is used

to create cell renewal through the guest’s skin. Every

sachet contains polyphenols, which slow the damaging

cell oxidation process. After the massage, guests enjoy

a Merlot hydrotherapy spa bath to complete their anti-

aging treatment.

Spa manager Geraldine Veldman reports that she

has between 25 and 30 regular local clients going back

as far as five to 10 years. “The Aromavine Anti-wrinkle

Facial is very popular amongst the locals, who tend

to make use of the Tuesday promotion, where a 30%

discount is offered for treatments over R500,” says

Veldman.PB

SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Guvon Hotels

Size: 345 square metres

Hydro facilities: Jacuzzi, two hydrobaths, indoor pool, steam room/rasul chamber

Number of treatment rooms: 8

Number of full-time therapists: 3

Brands: Matsimela Home Spa, TheraVine, Morgan Taylor, Spa Indulgence

about it

Let’s talk

2016staff | marketing | eco sustainability | sales

customer service | revenue management

2016

on: 30 & 31 August

at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

more info: www.probeauty.co.za

The International Spa Convention is Africa’s leading information exchange opportunity for all those working in the spa and salon industry. Don’t miss out, the future

of your business could depend on it!

BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASSCheck the website for online bookings and benefits: www.professionalbeauty.co.za

Who should attend:• Spaownersanddirectors

•Spamanagers,seniortherapistsandother key staff, eg. operations and accounts

•Healthandfitnessoperators

•Hoteliersandresortplanners

•Investors

•Architectsandconsultants

•Localandnationalgovernmentagencies

Delegates will be able to:

• Takehomepracticalideastoimmediately improve their spa operation

• Worktowardsasharedvisionbenefiting the industry and its clients

• Networkwithleadingspaandhotel professionals

• Shapeideasandinnovationsthatwill enable the industry and your business to prosper

• Customer serviCe:From first contact to feedback: Learning

what your spa clients really want.

Speakers will present their views on those issues which go to the heart of the spa industry and address live issues facing spa business development.

Let’s talkabout it...

• Great staff: Advice on how to put together

and retain a terrific team.

• marketinG maGiC:Learn about the essentials of an effective advert, the power of copywriting, and the impact of social media

and mobile marketing.

• eCo-sustainability:Ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly

practices for your spa

sales traininG

Workshop:Ensuring real results

• revenue manaGement:Operational and strategic principles

for financial success

spa convention ad.indd 2-3 2016/01/22 1:11 PM

With DMK Skin Revision for stretch marks.

BEFORE AFTER

Before and after images demonstrate the effects of DMK stretch mark treatments.

www.dmkskincare.co.za

DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES

+27 (0) 11 262 6120DMKSouthAfrica

Stretch marks most commonly appear after weight loss/gain or pregnancy, due to the skin being stretched beyond its capacity. This causes the skin to tear and form a scar.

DMK professional treatments effectively assist in remod-elling the scarred tissue with a specialised formula that dissolves and softens the damaged tissue topically. DMK then rebuilds the skin with its signature enzyme therapy to restore the skin’s tissue back to a healthy state.

The DMK difference is in the way the treatments and for-mulations are delivered, rather than working on the surface

of the skin. DMK uses a Transdermal delivery system that penetrates through the surface of the skin, allowing vital nutrients to reach new skin cells.

The DMK concept is based on science and the natural processes of the skin. By understanding how a condition is caused, DMK can then provide a remedial program that effectively works to revise this unwanted condition.

Similar to a personal trainer for your body, a DMK technician will take you through all the steps involved and most impor-tantly how you can achieve a life long solution.

To achieve a fantastic result at the skin surface you must fi rst regenerate the cellular structure of the skin.


33 rosacea

Rosacea reality

out capillaries in the skin that have

become pinched or congested at their

branch connections.

Cases not treatable by a beauty therapistThere is one symptom called

Rhinophyma that requires medical

attention – the nose is grossly swollen,

deep red and sometimes has actual

fissures in the skin and swollen veins.

Another symptom called

B-conjunctivitis should be avoided

as it deals with the eye tissue, thus

making any topical beauty therapy

treatment a risky option.

Can it be cured?Controlled remission of rosacea is a

preferable term to ‘cure’. Using the

‘cure’ word to a client suggests that

all problems will be sorted out forever,

which is totally unrealistic.

It’s vital to counsel a rosacea client

about the many irregular factors that

go into treatments that may determine

the outcome, such as genetic, lifestyle,

age and any mental attitudes about

their condition.

I believe that the root cause of

rosacea is the Demodex mite, a tiny

parasite living in the sebaceous glands.

Chronic conditions either are viral or

parasitic, not bacterial, bacteria being

easy to eliminate. The fact that we can

clear up rosacea with alkaline washes

and aggressive (rather than calming)

treatments has convinced me of this

reality. PB

Rosacea has probably been one of the most misdiagnosed and misunderstood skin disorders in the history of the human race, writes Danné Montague-King.

The symptoms of rosacea

are so variable that many

people have been treated

for it when they were in

fact suffering from some

other skin disorder. In fact, the term

acne rosacea was a common medical

diagnosis a few years ago and is no

longer considered a valid disorder

under that name.

Most severe skin disorders instil

fear into beauty therapists, who have

been taught to refer the client to a

dermatologist immediately. Rosacea

does not fall into this category. There

has been as much success in treating

various symptoms of rosacea by

advanced beauty therapists as there

has been by physicians.

TheoriesSeveral researchers have theorised

that rosacea is brought on by a species

of mite, the Demodex Follicuorum, (a

microscopic mite) or Helicobacter

Pylori (a type of bacteria).

Other skin experts claim facial

erythema is due to oedema, while

others say rosacea is pharmalogic

(such as in response to topical steroid

use). There is evidence that harsh

wind, sun exposure and dietary factors

exacerbate rosacea.

The therapist must be aware

that certain prescription drugs for

problems not related to rosacea

may cause flushing and redness.

Vasodilator drugs to watch out for can

include Griseofulvin, Chlorpropamide

and Antabuse.

Couperose skinThe correct medical term for

couperose is Telangiectasia and

therapists have for many years used

diathermy, schlerotherapy and other

methods to treat it. Now, there is a

nicotinic acid crème that will flush

Basic symptoms of rosacea Flushing (treatable by therapists);

Erythema (treatable by therapists);

Papules (treatable by therapists);

Pustules (treatable by therapists);

Oedema (treatable by therapists

unless chronic);

Rhinophyma (medical treatment only);

B/Conjunctivitis (medical treatment

only);

kerstitis (treatable by therapists unless

drug-related);

Comedones (treatable by therapists);

Scarring (treatable by therapists

trained in scar revision techniques).

Danné Montague-King, founder of the DMK skincare empire, has won international recognition and endorsement by the medical profession for pioneering a skin rejuvenation system that recognises the importance of offering skin cells a chemistry they recognise.

Pic

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urce

: htt

p://

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/tre

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Before

After


34 salon focus

The clinic’s name, Dr

Gobac Skin Body

Apothecary, relates to

the dispensing service

of the brand’s bespoke

remedies, whereby products are

mixed on-site according to the

client’s specific requirements and

concerns.

So says the brand’s founder,

Dr Robert Gobac, who adds that

the word ‘apothecary’ alludes to a

holistic range of treatments, as well

as to what he believes is a completely

new concept offered in a medi-salon

environment.

“We understand that each person is

unique, and, as such, we have created

an environment where all needs can

be met,” explains Gobac. “All bespoke

therapies and products are exclusive

to our salon.”

He notes that the company has

identified a gap in the market for a more

medically defined, yet non-aggressive

beauty salon concept. “Opening our

own clinic was always a part of the

brand strategy, but about three years

ago we made a firm decision that this

was what we wanted to do. Since then

we have been working on expanding

our professional and retail range of

products and treatments.”

Gobac plans to open more

strategically positioned clinics and is

already evaluating the next locations.

Unisex appealSomatologist Elzanne Nieuwenhuis is

the salon’s manager and previously

worked with Dr Gobac products for

many years at her own salon.

“We opened Dr Gobac Skin Body

Apothecary on 1 August 2015 and our

bookings have really escalated since

then. Being situated within an office

park (Summit Square on School Road

in Morningside) has helped to build

our client base, I believe.

“In terms of the salon’s décor, we

went for muted and unisex colours

to create a very quiet, calming and

exclusive atmosphere that appeals

to both men and women.

“The salon has a couple’s room

and two other treatment rooms.

Our reception area is devoted to

nail treatments – manis & pedis,

gel and tips. We use only Ice Box

colors, the nail brand created by Dr

Gobac,” says Nieuwenhuis.

TreatmentsSpecialised facial treatments and

body care treatments in the salon

have been developed to address a

number of skin concerns.

“We specialise in anti-ageing

treatments,” continues Gobac. “This

was always an important focus of the

brand.

“Recently, we expanded our

treatment services to include cellulite,

stretch marks, slimming and detoxing

treatments. Brand-new actives and

superior technology are available to

us and we strive to translate these

resources in the most effective and

accessible ways. It is very exciting to

see the results that can be achieved

after only a few sessions.” PB

The return of the ‘apothecary’Cosmeceutical brand Dr Gobac has launched its first-ever specialised treatment clinic, in Morningside, Johannesburg, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

The return of the ‘apothecary’


Dark and really, really lovelyWith the continued rise of the black middle class in South Africa, black clientele of salons and spas is steadily on the increase, requiring therapists to have specialised knowledge of how to treat African skin, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

There are several differences

between Caucasian and

African skins that are

important for the therapist

to know in order to treat

them successfully and to prescribe the

correct home care regime.

According to Jacqui Faucitt

of RégimA, African skin is thicker

than white skin due to the stratum corneum having more layers and a

more compact dermis, with larger,

more numerous fibroblasts, which can

lead to abnormal scarring and keloid

formation.

Says Faucitt: “This must be a major

consideration when choosing in-

salon treatments and recommending

home care so that aggressive

treatments are avoided. In addition,

black skins contain less glutathione,

which is known to inhibit epidermal

melanogenesis and leads to darker

skin. Melanocytes in black skin have

10 times more tyrosinase activity,

producing 10 times more melanin with

slower melanin degradation.

“When assessing an African skin,

if pigmentation occurs in the upper

superficial layers of skin, the patches

are a darker shade of brown, but, if

pigmentation is in the deeper layers,

an ashy grey discoloration appears.

“Prevention and treatment of

pigmentation, scarring (including

acne) and any inflammatory

conditions are at the top of the list

for African skins and most types of

reaction inevitably and quickly result

in darkened, scarred areas.”

‘Oily’ concernsSonette Donker of the Skin iD Clinic

in Sandton notes that most of her

black patients suffer from very oily

skin and are prone to breakouts and

hyperpigmentation.

“A dark skin scars very quickly, so

extractions must be performed with

exceptional care and no inflamed

lesions must be extracted, only

non-inflamed lesions. African skin

is also prone to post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentation, so inflammation

during the treatment must be

controlled. It is vital not to over-

stimulate this type of skin,” she

explains.

Donker’s first course of action is to

balance out excess oil production with

oil-absorbing clays like Bentonite, and

to increase the hydration of the skin.

“So often people with oilier

skin types strip and dry out their

skins, leading to the skin producing

more oil,” she continues. “I prefer

using hyaluronic acid and aloe vera

to increase hydration in the skin.

Balancing the skin’s oil production will

automatically keep breakouts at bay.

“A good pH-balanced cleanser is

vital, as well as is sun protection for

daily use. I like a cleanser that contains

exfoliating ingredients, which offer the

user cleansing and exfoliation in one

easy step.”

She advises her black clients to use

a cleanser containing glycolic acid to

remove the dead skin cells in a gentle

manner. Such cleansers also help to

keep the skin clear and maintain an

even skin colour.

“I would recommend using a clay

mask containing glycolic acid at home

not more than once a week, for two

minutes at a time, as the mask acts

like a mini-peel. This will remove

36 african skin


R

dead skin cells, absorb excess oil and

even out hyperpigmentation. A light

moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid

to hydrate the skin without increasing

the oil production is needed for the

day. For night time I prescribe an

active product that focuses on the

client’s main concern,” says Donker.

Uneven skin toneOver the past 20 years Ayesha

Rajah of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa in

Johannesburg has worked on a wide

range of African skins.

“Some of the skin conditions I have

come across include an uneven skin

tone predominantly localised to the

around the mouth and forehead area,”

says Rajah. “I’ve noticed that dark skin

blemishes very easily primarily due

to post-inflammatory pigmentation,

as the skin tends go very ashen or

grey in appearance when the client is

stressed, ill or on medication such as

Roactutane.

“Due to having more sebaceous

glands, I’ve found that African

clients put huge focus on drying out

their skin, which results in the skin

becoming severely dehydrated with a

dull appearance. This constant over-

drying also creates an environment

for comedones and further skin

complications.”

Vitamin AEnviron Skin Care founder and

pioneering Cape Town-based plastic

surgeon Dr Des Fernandes is of the

opinion that skincare professionals

would do their clients a great disservice

if they ignored the real differences

between those clients with Fitzpatrick

Type V or VI skin and treated them as

though they have Type I, II or Type III

skin.

“African skin is sensitive and needs

to be treated as gently as possible as

problems may leave permanent marks.

It’s true that darker skins that seem

dry are probably deficient in Vitamin

A. Dry skin shows up as grey flakes on

the skin and tends to be associated

with Vitamin A deficiency. You can be

sure that this is a deficiency of Vitamin

A if you notice follicular hyperkeratosis

on the arms or legs. These are dry

plugs of keratin surrounding the hairs

that look as though they could be

easily removed – but aren’t.”

He recommends treating such skin

with mild doses of Vitamin A as in

Environ’s Derma Lac Lotion, combined

with Environ’s Vitamin A, C & E Body

Oil.

“Dark skin is more likely than

light skin to make keloid scars, or

to produce hypertrophic (proud)

scars,” comments Fernandes. “The

37 african skin


african skin

hypertrophic scar may flatten in

time but will be very noticeable.

The use of Environ’s Intensive

Colostrum Gel is recommended

to promote healing. Intensive

Colostrum Gel is a regenerative,

skin energiser which supports

the production of healthy

collagen, elastin and growth

factors. It contains bovine

colostrum, which calms,

soothes and boosts distressed,

fragile skin.”

Fernandes warns against

harsh exfoliation, suggesting

that African clients opt for

micro exfoliation instead. Two

Environ products act as ultra-fine

exfoliants – the Original Balancing

Masque as well as the B-Active

Sebumasque. Both also improve

hydration and remove excess oils from

the surface of the skin.

“We need to feed the skin with

nutrients that thicken the skin, as

thicker skin is healthier skin. Nothing

approaches Vitamin A in its ability

to thicken skin – especially in the

gentlest form of retinyl palmitate.

Environ’s face serums such as the

C-Quence serums from the Ionzyme

range, the Retinol serum from the

Intensive range, and Sebugel A from

the B Active range, contain a tolerable

yet effective, fat-soluble version of

Vitamin A retinyl palmitate, in addition

to highly effective forms of Vitamins

C and E, peptides, antioxidants, and

growth factors as a base,” he states.

Sun threatFernandes points out that the African

epidermis is very sensitive to solar

damage. UVB rays in particular affect

the epidermis in dark skins.

“Environ RAD SPF 15 is a

revolutionary sunscreen containing

sun filters and sun reflectors that

protect skin from both UVA and UVB

irradiation. RAD also contains a free

radical scavenging system consisting

of antioxidant vitamins to combat the

effects of the sun and pollution on the

skin,” he says.

Faucitt does not believe that

black skins require higher sun

protection factors than Caucasian

skin. “Sometimes a high SPF on

black skin blocks the pores and

results in irritation with subsequent

pigmentation. It is also important not

to have too high an SPF, as black skins

are usually deficient in Vitamin D3.”

Interestingly, Rajah notes that her

black clients are often apprehensive

about using sunscreen, due to the

greasiness and whitening finish many

sunscreen products have.

PigmentationRégimA’s Zone Pigment Perfector is

a new anti-pigmentation treatment

that draws on the individual strengths

of multiple skin-lightening actives.

Lumiskin and the latest in proprietary

skin-lightening actives work in

synergy, providing a cumulative effect

with a visible and significant decrease

in pigmentation. With Sophora Root

extract, the enhanced lightening action

of black tea extract, and the latest in

stabilised Vitamin C technology, this

product combines the most cutting-

edge actives for unparalleled skin

lightening power. Added to this, Kiwi

Fruit Extract has been found to be

particularly beneficial for under-eye

dark circles.

“Due to having more sebaceous glands, I’ve

found that African clients put huge focus on drying

out their skin, which results in the skin becoming severely

dehydrated.”

Ayesha Rajah

38

39


african skin

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Diamond-peel Microdermabrasion

Viora’s Infusion™ is a unique, painless, needle free aesthetic procedure by

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“Because African skins are more prone to keloid

scarring it is important that a product provides

anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin and

collagen fibres. This is an added benefit of black tea

extract,” explains Faucitt.

She notes that hypertrophic and keloid scarring

is much more prevalent in black and Asian females

between the ages of 10 and 20 years old. Because of

this it is extremely important to help prevent scarring

where possible. Keloid scars rarely regress naturally

and are difficult to treat.

Scar Repair, also from RégimA, is a Super Strength

Serum which would be recommended for prevention

and treatment of keloid scarring, helping active acne

and improving acne scarring. The product further

acts on older hypertrophic and keloid scars (ugly,

raised scars), promoting their maturation, helping

flatten, reducing pain and improving function. Faucitt

recommends combining Scar Repair Forté with the

RégimA Zone Power Peel treatments.

‘Brighten’ upThe experts at Thalgo point out that,

in addition to sun exposure and sun

damage, pigmentation can also be

caused in darker skins by pregnancy,

hormone treatments, certain

medications and hypothyroidism.

They recommend Thalgo’s

Brightening Rejuvenating Range, which

includes Exfoliating Lotion; Unizones

Clearing Corrector (for localised

lightening for stubborn pigmentation

and evening out the complexion);

Brightening Regulating Essence;

Smoothing Brightening Fluid (lightens,

stimulates collagen production and

acts during and after melanogenesis);

Melt-In Smoothing Brightening Cream

(to add luminosity to the skin); and

Age-Defence Sunscreen Cream. R


african skin

40

HyperpigmentationMany darker Fitzpatrick skin types

struggle with the problem of

hyperpigmentation, especially post-

inflammatory hyperpigmentation,

according to Ursula Hunt of DermaFix.

“Products focused on skin-

brightening, such as DermaFix

MelanoDerm and MD Prescriptives

SkinLite, greatly assist to lighten and

brighten the overall appearance of

the skin, while DermaFix Vitamin C

Serum plays a supportive role in skin

brightening as it works against the

inflammatory triggers that stimulate

post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

production.

“Further inclusion of enzymes via

DermaFix DermaPolish and DermaFix

DermaBright Mandelic Acid will assist

to revive a dull, ashy-looking skin type

by stimulating a cell renewal response.

Sun Protection should always play a key

role in any skincare routine as it assists

to protect against further darkening of

the skin. DermaFix DermaShield SPF

50 is SANS 1557:2013 approved for

its ability to provide UVA/UVB high

protection,” explains Hunt.

From the ‘vine’ According to Lisa Smit, creator and

CEO of L.S. Enterprises, TheraVine

produces innovative skincare

products formulated to address skin

concerns related to pigmentation,

while promoting luminous, even

skin tone and effectively controlling

pigmentation caused by the natural

ageing process, sun damage,

excessive UV exposure and hormonal

imbalances.

Says Smit: “MelanoVine

addresses pigmentation in a three-

step approach by making use of two

cutting-edge peptides, five active

ingredients comprising advanced

hydrating systems and anti-oxidant

phyto-chemistry, as well as with the

nano-encapsulation technology of a

revolutionary bilayer liposome. This

combination leaves the skin brighter,

younger and clearer.

“Extensive research has

gone into mastering the

formulation of the cutting-edge

Chromabright (Dimethylmethoxy

ChromanylPalmitate) peptide

into the six products that make up

MelanoVine, which are specifically

aimed at diminishing dark spots,

lightening and brightening the

complexion, protecting the skin

against further damage and dark

spots, while also minimising the

appearance of fine lines and

wrinkles.”

Vitamin CFor African skin, DMK recommends

Fibromax C, a micro-encapsulated

20% liquid to powder serum. Previously

known as Fibreblast C, it contains

ethyl ascorbic acid, the purest form of

Vitamin C and the most bioavailable.

A strong antioxidant and free radical

scavenger, the product accelerates

collagen production. Liquid droplets

are encapsulated in silica particles to

form a dry, free-flowing liquid powder,

which remains stable under ordinary

temperature or pressure.

Silica Silylate is one of the most

abundant elements in nature; it is

present in almost all plants and in

almost every organ of the body and

is thus essential for healthy skin.

It has excellent barrier properties

and protects against denaturing by

oxidation and UV attack.

light-based treatmentsComfort and safety are two of the

most important principles with a light-

based skin treatment, in particular,

in the treatment of darker skin types

(Types IV to VI).

Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech

Lasers: “Fortunately, advances in the

41 african skin

past decade have given rise to a range

of devices that can be safely used on

ethnic skin. Longer wavelength lasers

such as the 810 Diode and 1064nm

Nd:YAG and fractional radiofrequency

devices have all been used safely

for hair removal, pigmentary

abnormalities, resurfacing and skin

tightening in ethnic skin, respectively.

“Because skin of colour is more

prone to hyperpigmentation,

discoloration and scarring, light-based

skin rejuvenation treatments on the

coloured skin should be evaluated

thoroughly.

“One of the most exciting advances

is the fractional radio frequency

treatments offered on the multi-

technology platform of the Viora V30.”

In ‘harmony’Best Lasers recommends the Alma

Lasers Harmony Lite/ XL/ XL Pro to

treat pigmentation on darker skin

types.

“Thanks to Alma Lasers’

trademarked In-Motion technology,

the operator can move the handpiece

freely over the skin. By exposing a

pigmented lesion to short pulses of

visible light, the temperature in the

highly concentrated melanin can be

raised sharply, enough to shatter the

cells containing the melanin. The body

then replaces these cells with new

cells generated by the surrounding

untreated area,” says Andrew Best. PB


42 professional beauty cape town 2016

Acu-sol (Dermacare) will

showcase a fantastic

range of Italian waxes

that are new to

South Africa.

Best Lasers helps

its clients to take

their businesses

to the next level

both financially

and technologically

by adding Alma Lasers to

their practice. The company

doesn’t just sell laser

systems – it provides

extensive training to clients,

as well as technical support

with local and international

backing. Best Lasers registers

the client with the Department

of Health & Safety and provides

essential information regarding all

the necessary precautions operators

must take when using a laser. Clients

can be assured that all avenues are

covered when buying a laser through

Best Lasers.

BTL Industries designs and

manufactures non-surgical machines

for the aesthetic medicine sector

that represent the best devices for

fat-dissolving, skin-tightening, anti-

cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage

and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light)

treatments.

Calgel invites visitors

to its stand to have

Calgel applied to

one of their nails

and to see the

brand’s live nail art

demonstrations.

Creative Glamour

will launch its first

cream foundation range.

As a show special, visitors

can receive up to 30% discount on

selected items.

Bio-Oil from Evolabs is a specialist

skincare oil that helps improve the

appearance of scars, stretch marks

and uneven skin tone. It is also

effective for ageing and dehydrated

skin. Bio-Oil has won 224 skincare

awards and has become the No.1

selling scar and stretch mark product

in 18 countries since its global launch

in 2002.

Lipidol is a range of six new oils for

daily skincare from the makers of

Bio-Oil. The range includes two wash-

off products, a Cleansing Face Oil

and Cleansing Body Oil, that remove

dirt without stripping the skin’s

natural oily layer, and four leave-

on products, an After Shower Oil,

Sunscreen Oil (SPF 20), Overnight

Face Oil and After Shave Oil, that

Curtain-raiser for Cape Town A brand-new year, a brand-new show – Professional Beauty Cape Town runs from 13 to 14 March at the CTICC and is set to showcase the latest products, devices and services from the exciting world of beauty, nails and medical aesthetics.

Visitors to the Acu-sol

(Dermacare) stand will be introduced to a magnificent range of cold waxes and the one and only

Elastique film wax.

Bio Sculpture Gel will launch the highly anticipated

EVO Gel, which will be available at the show along with many other show

specials.

Visitors can also discover more information about Calgel’s exciting

half-price education programmes in

Cape Town.

of decision makers agree that trade

shows provide the best purchasing

info

91%

Source: www.marketingprofs.com


professional beauty cape town 2016

supplement the skin’s oily

layer to help it retain its

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everything from Healing

Earth’s new High Performance anti-

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friendly and educational range of

children’s personal care products.

Generous gifts and exciting lucky

draw prizes will be up for grabs.

Every year, 200m Himalaya products

enter the homes of consumers

around the world. With a range of

over 300 healthcare and personal

care products, including brands

like Liv.52, Cystone, Bonnisan, and

Neem, Himalaya touches the lives

of millions of customers worldwide,

giving them products that help

them lead healthier, enriched lives

through a unique combination

of pharmaceutical expertise and

personal care technology. Himalaya

is a pioneer in the use of modern

science to rediscover, validate and

contemporise Ayurveda principles

into an effective, value for money

head-to-toe product range.

ikhokha allows you to accept

debit and credit cards securely

through your smartphone,

wherever you do business.

Lilian Terry International – creator

of homeopathic aromatherapy

– invites visitors to Stand E6 to

experience the brand’s massage

oil complexes, gels and toners,

wraps and LT FlexyCups, first

hand. The latest massage cup –

the ProCup for Body – will also

be showcased. This is the perfect

cellulite treatment tool. Live

demonstrations will be done on

the stand.

Get high-quality, long-lasting

nail designs and nail decorations

from leading brand Moyou Nails.

Beautiful and artistic designs can

be created at home using Moyou’s

easy to use nail kits and image

plates.

Don’t lose clients due to unanswered

calls. My Appointment’s software

and marketing portal allows clients

to book appointments online any

time, and is linked to the company’s

comprehensive salon management

system.

Nailsforu will offer an easy to remove

LED / UV cured Gel Top Coat applied

over your favourite brand of basecoat

and polish. It promotes a smooth gel-

like effect and improves performance

and longevity. In addition it provides

a protective, hard-wearing, durable

polish overlay. Providing a high-gloss

surface shine, the product is free

of toluene, formaldehyde and DBP

(dibutyl phthalate).

Nouveau Contour is

the industry leader in

permanent and re-constructive make-

up in 26 countries. The Nouveau

Academy now offers South African

clients the best pigments, equipment

and training and advises visitors to

Professional Beauty Cape Town to

beware of imitations.

Generous gifts and exciting lucky draw

prizes will be up for grabs at Healing Earth

Visit iKhokha to find

out how you can get started and

get R100 off.

R

43



Your nails need a break with Nuvanail.

Repaired nails. Renewed nails.

Nuvanail. Visitors are invited to Stand

C46 to learn more about the brand.

“Pure” Smile is the only 100% Natural

Teeth whitening supplier in Africa

for beauty salons, spas, hair salons

and dentists. Quick: 30min once-off

treatment. Efficient: gain up to nine

shades. Painless: no gum irritation –

no sensitive teeth.

There is always something

new and exciting at Radiant

Healthcare. Service is an

attitude that extends

throughout our

Radiant company.

Distributor of

Syneron, Cocoon

medical, GSD and

Ecleris.

Signature Health – HOCATT™ Ozone

Sauna – beauty, health

and healing all starts

with oxygen. Boasting eight

powerful and scientifically

proven therapies, the Hocatt

Plus Ozone Sauna

chamber provides all

this and so much

more.

Sparkle Cosmetics

(Gelish, Morgan

Taylor and Artistic)

launches Revolution

– the latest in long-

lasting nail colour.

Revolution wears up to

10 days and incorporates a

breakthrough crystal shine, 5-free

formulation, in 56 showstopping

shades.

Studex will

The mascara

revolution.

Enhance your

eyelashes by up to

300% with WOW 3D

Fibre Lashes. These

lashes are made from

100% natural

tree tea fibre

and beeswax.

Requiring only a five-minute

application, the lashes last all

day and can be removed with

facial cleanser and water.

All the products, tools, gels and tips in

the world mean nothing if you’re not

completely comfortable using them.

That’s why customer service at Young

Nails and the relationships they have

with their nail techs are truly the most

important thing for the company. PB

Join the revolution!

Retro Revolution has launched a first in South

Africa, Liquid Edge – Nail Tape. Show visitors are invited to the stand to get a free sample to

and see how easily this product

works.

demonstrate

to salon

owners how

offering a Studex ear-

piercing service can

increase both income

and foot traffic into their

business. Very easy to use

and extremely hygienic, Studex

systems can be used for belly- and

nose-piercing, as well as for ear-

piercing. Studex looks forward to

meeting both new and existing

customers.

Tammy Taylor is the trusted

brand of tens of thousands

salons worldwide. Visitors will

fall in love with the variety and

quality that this brand offers

them. From acrylic, gel polishes,

hard gel to spa ranges. This

will be the brand’s first product

awareness expo in Cape Town.

OFRA Cosmetics will

introduce its famous Long Lasting

Liquid Lipsticks, as well as the OFRA

exceptional skincare and

make-up line.

For more information about Professional Beauty Cape Town,

visit: www.probeauty.co.za.



Medical doctors, aestheticians and

therapists are sure to find many

sessions of interest at the MA

Convention, according to conference

director Karen Ellithorne. “As facial

rejuvenation is a really hot topic globally, we have included

a session called, ‘The 4D Facelift’,” says Ellithorne. “In this

session, plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr Nerina

Wilkinson, will talk about how treatment modalities, such

as lipofilling, fillers, threads and fractional resurfacing

lasers, can be successfully combined for natural facial

rejuvenation.

“Lip enhancement will also be a focus at the

convention. Dr Zak Schabort, founder of the nationwide

Cosmetic and Dental Emporium, will reveal why he thinks

that indirect methods of lip enhancement have become

superior in today’s medical aesthetics arena. Dr Schabort

will demonstrate how to restore the attractiveness of

an ageing mouth through the use of minimally invasive

procedures.”

A new technique in eye rejuvenation, called Soft

Surgery, will be unpacked by Dr Marisa Heyns in a

session devoted to non-ablative blephrophlasty. This

new treatment modality involves new and less invasive

aesthetic technologies and techniques that would

otherwise require cosmetic surgery.

“Clinical pharmacist, David Arthur (R.Ph), will present

what is sure to be an intriguing session, on the essential

co-ordinates that need to be in place for mitochondrial

skin repair. David, who was the first pharmacist in South

Africa to be board-certified by the American Academy for

Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine, will also present

another session called, ‘Nuts & Bolts of Stress Management’,

in which he will reveal what physiological steps can be

made to avoid ageing naturally.

“South African skincare legend and founder of Environ,

Dr Des Fernandes, will present a session on retinol and

how it can be used to address many skincare concerns,

including photo-ageing, coarse texture, enlarged pores and

acne scarring,” explains Ellithorne.

Dr Duncan Carmichael of The Anti-Ageing Clinic in

Sea Point will demonstrate how to combine PDO threads

and fillers for a superior result when performing mid-face

volumisation on a client. In another session he will talk on

how to treat menopause with bioidentical hormones, an

alternative to conventional HRT (Hormone Replacement

Therapy).

Other topics and speakers include: Facial and Hand

Rejuvenation (Dr Gerhard van Niekerk); Platelet-Rich

Plasma (Dr Kamlen Pillay); Translational Nutrigenomics (Dr

Yael Joffe); Laser Case Studies (Amy Bowie) and Managing

Vitamin D deficiencies (speaker to be confirmed). PB

To book your seat for the MA Convention visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Please note that the programme is subject to change.

Medical aesthetics in focuswith the theme, ‘Rejuvenate your practice’, the Medical Aesthetics (MA) Convention will run parallel to Professional Beauty Cape Town at the CTICC on 12 and 13 March.


Sensitive probioticsEsse, South Africa’s certified organic, export-ready

brand, has just launched a line formulated specifically for

sensitive, reactive skin types. Incorporating new probiotic

technology that regulates and normalises

sensitive skin, the products contain

mild, certified organic plant ingredients

to ensure an effective skincare routine.

033 212 3506

‘Zoned’-outA new RégimA Zone

product that contains

natural and organic

ingredients, plus high-

tech synthesised nature-

identical actives, is the

super-rich night product,

Zone Age Reversal Night

Complex. Designed to

specifically target the

mechanisms of skin ageing,

it provides protection and

repair from damage caused

by age-related stresses.

011 615 2869

product focus – natural and organic

46

with ‘natural’ products, it is intimated that the ingredients listed are all of natural origin (i.e. from plant or animal sources). ‘Organic’ denotes that the natural ingredient is, further, free from pesticides, synthetics and preservatives. Products claiming an organic status should always bear organic certification from a reputable source.

Pureand simple Fixed up!

DermaFix Argan 100% Organic

is both ECOCERT and NaTrue-

certified, as a 100% pure and

organic form of Argan Oil for

the benefit of skin, hair and nail

protection and moisturisation.

Suitable for all skin types,

including sensitised, eczema

and psoriasis-prone skin, it

protects against moisture loss

and oxidative damage.

0861 28 23 23


47 product focus – natural and organic

Garden of EdenNew to South Africa, the Skintopia

range is produced in a traditional

fashion. Using renewable resources,

the products are hand-crafted into a

range of healing and high-vibrational

combinations. All products are

produced in small batches to ensure

product quality, freshness and body

care efficacy.

083 325 5217

Complex complexesThe South African range of

Lilian Terry Homeopathic

Aromatherapy products for

body, face, hair, feet and nails,

is 100% natural and contains no

added preservatives, synthetic

colouring or fragrances, and is

not tested on animals. These

complexes are presented in eye-

catching coloured glass bottles

which are recyclable.

012 361 2606

Ear-candlingHandmade from 100% natural

ingredients, Biosun Traditional Ear

Candles offer a non-invasive therapy

for physical, emotional and mental

rejuvenation. The warm airwaves from

the pure ingredients massage your

auditory canal and increase alpha

brain wave activity, releasing serotonin,

dopamine and endorphins. Ear candles

are ideal for ear problems, headaches,

colds, sinusitis and hay fever.

011 803 5445

Aromatic purityCSpa Aroma Wellness is the new-generation

aroma wellness natural brand based on

aromatherapy purist principles. The fusions of

ancient aromatherapy philosophies combined

with simplistic and modern applications make

this range a high-performance olfactory

experience, with hints of Africa at various

levels.

011 880 3851

Cleanest everThe Mio and Mama Mio ‘‘No Nasties’’ policy is the company’s

assurance that these are the cleanest, most effective skincare

products possible, made and developed in the safest way possible.

Not only are the products free from all harmful ingredients, but they

also actually work on delivering the results they promise.

011 033 0500


48 training

When recruiting therapists for spas

and salons, owners/managers need

to look at CVs with international

and national examination

outcomes, for example SAAHSP

(South African), CIDESCO (Swiss) and ITEC (British).

So says Sandy Fuhr of the Beauty Therapy Institute,

who admits that one of the most difficult things to teach

students is attitude and ethics.

“All schools are compelled to teach and instil these

values,” continues Fuhr. “The new generation, however, has

a different way of approaching the workforce, especially in

our industry. We are working with ladies, so pregnancy and

babies are a big problem, as therapists have to work

long hours, including weekends and evenings.”

Eunice Bredenkamp, national education

manager for Nimue Skin Technology, adds: “We

must acknowledge that all accredited institutions

for skincare have a compulsory element that

teaches students about work ethics – both theory

and practical. Beyond that, one cannot rely on the

tertiary institutions to teach work ethics, as it is

something that is already moulded throughout the

12 years of school and before school by their parents.

Once students enter the workforce, it is up to their

employers and associates to reinforce the teachings

speak to spa- and salon-owners around south Africa and many will say that they struggle to find appropriately trained staff who are committed to their jobs. Joanna Sterkowicz investigates.

A solid grounding


from college in their early years of

working and ensure that they are

carried through. As a product house,

Nimue is very passionate about

education, ethics and education. It is

for this reason that we have included

‘work ethic’ talks in our educational

syllabus.”

Delusions of grandeurThere are reportedly many students

who have an air of superiority and

who think they are above certain

duties, such as cleaning chores in

the salon.

“Having just been involved in

the opening of salons in the UK,

I am impressed to see therapists

scrubbing floors, washing dishes

and doing all their own cleaning,”

comments Fuhr. “In South Africa we

joke at our colleges that the learners

will get certificates and diplomas in

beauty from their external examiners

and degrees from us in hygiene and

cleaning, however this doesn’t carry

through to the industry.”

RégimA educator Jocelyn Frick

concurs: “Unfortunately the youth

of today are a different species.

Training proves to be challenging,

with the students being disrespectful,

disruptive and unappreciative of your

time and effort.

“While we like to think that the

youth are the future of our industry,

and thus want to supply them with

the RégimA training early in their

careers, I do feel quite concerned, as

presently the majority of the youth

who are studying Beauty Therapy are

unenthusiastic, and motivated only by

money. I’ve found that the third-year

groups are the only ones who have

the maturity to grasp the information

that I am relaying to them.”

entry levelsMore than one educator in the

industry has been heard to say that

the level of students entering beauty

schools is not as high as in previous

years. Fuhr responds: “The entry

level for our schools is still grade

12 for a full qualification outcome.

However, the level 4 (matric) learner

is educated to a lower level than

previously. I believe the Department

of Education has had to lower the

Once students enter the workforce, it is up to their employers and associates to reinforce the teachings from college in their early years of working and ensure that they are carried through.Eunice Bredenkamp

Lecturers at government-subsidised learning institutions get frustrated because they have to

accept students if they comply with just the bare minimum criteria. Jacqueline Ferreira

““

{ {

training

49


50 training

standards in an attempt to bring

everyone up to one level.”

Jacqueline Ferreira, a RégimA

educator, elaborates further. “The

quality of the student entering into

the college is not on par with the

students of five years ago. In terms of

a medical skincare brand like RégimA,

we’ve seen that students sometimes

do not grasp the seriousness of

correct prescription, as they do not

see the difference between a cosmetic

and a cosmeceutical. Lecturers at

government-subsidised learning

institutions get frustrated because

they have to accept students if they

comply with just the bare minimum

criteria.”

Bredenkamp stresses that this

topic is a sensitive one. “However, I

can say that you will always have a

mixed bag of students. Today one

still finds really well-educated and

enthusiastic students, as well as

students who assume that beauty is

‘an easy career/course and

just something to do’ and

carry that attitude through in

their execution. I think that if

skincare education in general

is regulated, and entrance

into colleges and institutions

is monitored carefully and

taken more seriously, this

problem can be avoided.”

Ferreira notes that many

employers these days

who focus on relaxation-related

treatments choose to employ entry-

level therapists. “There are a few

skills development programmes

in the industry at present that

favour candidates from previously

disadvantaged backgrounds and assist

them to become massage therapists.

So, the employment of these ladies is

impacting on the employment market

for the more advanced therapists.”

Short vs longUrsula Hunt, managing director of

DermaFix, observes that there is a

strong tendency within the skincare

industry for institutions to offer

students short courses, or modular

training, for 12 days or less, rather than

having them complete a full two- or

three-year diploma course.

“These graduates often lack

knowledge in understanding the

fundamental basics of skin histology

on which the skincare industry is built.

Information is often committed to

short-term memory, rather than being

carried through with the graduates

into the working world.

“Practical experience further

comprises a large part of working

on the skin with confidence. Short

courses often lack the practical

experience leading to a ‘qualification’,

with the result that unconfident

skincare professionals are entering the

working environment,” explains Hunt.

Bredenkamp maintains that it

can be quite confusing for potential

students to know which course to

take.

“There are many training institutions

in South Africa which offer skincare

courses that range from two-month

short courses to three-year

diploma and degree courses.

I would recommend that

one contacts SAAHSP for guidance

on where to take courses that are

endorsed by them.

“With so many different training

institutions, it’s difficult to assess

which are recognised and endorsed

by the SAAHSP, and whether the

accreditation received is sufficient for

the workplace. The fees are incredibly

high for skincare and body therapy

courses. It is for this reason that

one finds different competencies in

therapists at beauty salons and/or

often aesthetic clinics too. Potential

students will question why they need

to do a three-year course if they can

do a two-month crash course and walk

into the same job/work environment?”

According to Fuhr, many colleges

in South Africa have closed down and

there are far less therapists training

these days.

Short course graduates often lack knowledge in understanding the fundamental basics of skin histology on which the skincare industry is built. Ursula Hunt

“ “


51 training

“The way of teaching

has also changed in

a big way from the

traditional teaching of

a full qualification, full-

time, to teaching parts

of the full diploma, part-

time. This helps the

working woman as well as the person

who only wants to focus on individual

or single-skill outcomes.

“Speciality salons are opening, for

example brow bars, nail bars, waxing

studios, etc. To find the full, all-

rounder therapist is hard. This is due

to the economic situation – fees are so

high for two or three years of study,

and then they come out and earn a

pittance,” concludes Fuhr.

CurriculaSusan Lockie, another RégimA

educator, thinks that curriculum-wise,

South African training schools are

trying to keep up to date with trends

and industry demands.

“They are also applying

standardisations based on NQF

(National Qualifications Framework)

levels and SAQA (South African

Qualifications Authority) so that

the qualification is recognised at a

standard level to compare to other

qualification across different faculties,

such as commerce, law, etc.

“I think the biggest challenge is

for Beauty Therapy/Somatology to

be recognised within the health/

medical industry, as the Allied Health

Professionals Council of South Africa

has stipulated restrictions across

various modalities of massage and

therapy-related treatments, which

is causing confusion and limiting

the scope of practice for therapists

as they are trying to make more

treatments medical in classification

so that individuals need to register

with them. In my opinion it would

be a great opportunity for therapists

to be recognised under the health

industry and for medical and beauty

to be under an umbrella of health and

wellness, where there are benchmarks

and parameters set for individuals

operating within this arena. This would

also separate the therapists who are

serious about the industry

from those that are just

interested in glamour.

“Due to declining health

globally the health and

wellness industry has been

earmarked as the next

economic growth sector,

generating trillions of rands

and dollars,” notes Lockie.

Brand powerFerreira has been witness

to how positively it can

impact on a brand if young

students are introduced to

it at college level.

“They seem to

remember the ones that

make an ‘impression’ on them and

often opt to work with such brands

once they embark on a career. So,

from a company point of view, it is

imperative to utilise any exposure

one can get or any opportunity to

allow students to make contact with

our product.”

Remuneration Fuhr believes that low salaries

have given the industry a dreadful

reputation. “Spa- and salon-owners

need to make a concerted effort

to start paying their employees

properly, firstly in order to find good

therapists, and, secondly, to change

the image of this industry as being

poor payers. Salon- and

spa-owners need to look

at their remuneration

percentage and adjust

the way they pay. This

will lead to therapists

wanting to stay in the

industry versus leaving

to work in banks or as

secretaries, which pays

double what therapists earn. My

guestimate is that the rate of fall-out

from the industry is as high as 90%.

The only die-hards are the salon/

spa and school-owners, due to their

outlay and commitment. ”

Bredenkamp has found that most

therapists stop working for a boss

approximately three years after

college. “From here the common

trend is to either open a salon or

do treatments from the comfort of

their home; or to follow a different

and more fulfilling career path

altogether.” PB

Therapist recruitment criteria•Didthetherapistreceiveher/hisqualificationthroughanaccreditedandregisteredtertiaryinstitution?

•Isthisinstitutionrecognisedinternationally?•Isthetherapistabletocommunicatewell?•Isthetherapistabletoexplaintoaclientwhatitisthattheyneedfortheirskininvarioussituationsanddotheyknowtheproductthattheyarerecommendingtoclients?

•Insistonapracticalsessiontoshowhowthetherapistwastaughttoconducttreatments.Thiswillalsodemonstratethetherapist’slevelofworkethicandcapabilities.

•Isthetherapistwell-groomed?Criteria by Eunice Bredenkamp (Nimue)

I think the biggest challenge is for Beauty Therapy/Somatology to be recognised within the health/medical industry, as the Allied Health Professionals Council of South Africa has stipulated restrictions across various modalities of massage and therapy-related treatments, which is causing confusion and limiting the scope of practice for therapists.Susan Lockie

The way of teaching has also changed in a big way from the traditional teaching of a full qualification, full-time, to teaching

parts of the full diploma, part-time.Sandy Fuhr

{ {

“

“


52

When I started out in the industry

more than 26 years ago, being

a nail technician was a highly

sought-after occupation, one

that you were very proud of and

passionate about. At that time there were very few places

you could go to attend a certified nail technology course.

Beauty schools only offered basic manicure and pedicure

courses and there was the odd distributor who offered

training in nail enhancement application.

Consequently most of us ended up doing a beauty

therapy course followed by a nail technology course

with a specific distributor. These courses encompassed

absolutely everything – from nail anatomy to diseases &

disorders of the skin and nails, hygiene & sanitation, salon

safety, consultation & communication, product chemistry &

knowledge, and retail skills. Only once you had covered

these topics could you progress to learning about the

different nail enhancement systems.

My best-ever learning experience was when I actually

started working in a nail salon and even more so when

I had my own salon. I never stopped learning and have

attended ongoing training and courses throughout my

career. This is what eventually drove me to become an

educator.

The industry has grown incredibly since, with more

and more salons opening, new suppliers bringing in

innovative products and so many more places that offer

training. This has led to an increase in the number of

people attending courses, creating an abundance of nail

technicians and manicurists in our industry. Yet finding

appropriately trained and experienced nail technicians

There are many elements to consider when opening a nail salon, the most important being your staff, who can either make or break your business, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

nails

The perfect nail recruit


53

R

nails

can be quite a challenge. Salons want qualified and

experienced nail techs who require minimal training,

and can just get on with the job as quickly as possible.

However, salon-owners need to accept that people

like that are few and far between. They will need to

invest in their techs by training and grooming them.

Techs must be fully au fait with the salon’s protocols,

procedures and products to provide the best possible

service to clients.

The right stuffHow do you, as a salon owner, know whether you are

employing the right person for the job? Staff can be

recruited through specialised employment agencies,

beauty schools, distributors, social media or through

advertising and even referrals. The big concern is

that you just don’t know what you’re going to get, no

matter which route you go. Applicants should produce

a CV with all their personal information, qualifications,

work experience and history, certificates, and possibly

even testimonials. However, even with all the paper

work and credentials, recruiting could turn out to be


54 nails

a fruitless exercise if you don’t know

what to look out for.

Do you employ nail techs fresh

out of training or more experienced

techs? Well, both options have their

pros and cons: ‘newbies’ that have

come from a reputable institution are

great, as you can mould them through

further advanced training. They can

also be more inclined to embrace new

techniques far more readily. But, if

they have not been correctly trained,

then problems will arise.

An experienced nail tech, on the

other hand, could start working in

your salon immediately with minimal

training. However, they could have

picked up bad habits during their

career and they might be a little more

stubborn in that they think they know

it all and could be reluctant to learn

further.

Don’t just look at a CV and take what

you read as verbatim, rather check out

the information. Ask the candidate

questions and call people who can

give references. Check whether the

certificates come from a reputable

and professional training institute. Let

the candidate perform the necessary

treatments or services you require to

assess their skills. Allow the candidate

to ask you questions so that they are

clear about your expectations.

InstitutionsIt seems that beauty and nail

technology training institutions are

popping up everywhere; some offer

extensive and accredited training,

while others produce nail techs who

are not able to do the job.

I recently came across a few nail

techs applying for a position; their

certificates looked fine and they

seemed to come from an accredited

training institution. However, when I

asked them some questions and to

perform a nail enhancement service, I

discovered that these candidates had

learnt six different

beauty modules (not

all in nail technology)

in just 12 weeks. Their

certificates were

sadly not even worth

the paper they were

printed on, and they

are definitely going

to have to go back

to the basics and be

retrained. I wonder

how many other nail

techs like this there are in the industry?

So, how do you know whether

a training institution is reputable

and professional? By finding out

whether the institution offers the

correct skills training and whether

they are accredited by an established

accreditation body. Likewise, ask

accreditation bodies for a list of their

accredited training schools.

StandardsLCN marketing manager, Yvette Nel,

an experienced nail technician and

previously an educator, believes the

standard of training has improved

over the years within the brands/

companies that offer training.

“Unfortunately for all the nail

professionals who work hard to make

a living, there are suppliers who sell

to untrained nail technicians. I often

come across ladies who are ‘self-

trained’, and their knowledge of the

correct handling of tools, equipment

and products is non-existent. They

often cause extreme damage to

natural nails, especially their own,”

says Nel.

She believes that the courses that

do not offer instant qualification

provide enough knowledge about

nail technology, relevant to the type

of training. “It is important to have

ongoing assistance from your supplier

and to attend classes regularly. It is a

known fact that when working actively

in a salon daily, nail technicians pick

up ‘bad’ habits, so they should attend

training courses at least every six

months. Educators should also receive

regular training.”

According to Nel, a tech applying

for a job must be able to show original

training certificates and provide

copies thereof. She must perform at

least one set of nails to show her skills.

If an employer is in any doubt about

the technician’s qualification they

should contact the training institute.

Similarly, nail techs should check out

the professional viability of training

institutions prior to signing up. PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: [email protected]

•TheoryonNaturalNailStructure & Anatomy, Diseases and Disorders

•NailBrandHistory/Background

•ProductKnowledge

•PracticalApplication

•ProductTechniques–Natural, French Manicure & Colour Application

RECOMMENDED TRAINING

Let the candidate perform the necessary treatments or services you require to assess their skills.

Allow the candidate to ask you questions so that they are clear

about your expectations.

hair news

55

Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news

from the hair front.


And the winner is…Lewis Thomas from Partners

Hair Design won the Best

Show and the Hairstylist of the

Year awards at the Twincare

International-hosted Hairstylist

of the Year 2016 – South African

Hairdressing Awards held at

Gold Reef City on 6 December.

Other winners were: Skye

Coutinho from Franco’s International (Young Blood category);

Maretha Van Wyk from Pasquale Hairstylists (Avant Garde

category); Rootz Hair Studio (The Team category); and Shawn

Odendaal from Paul James Hairdressing (The Boyz category).

011 305 1600

Inoar treatment centre opens Brazilian brand Inoar Professional recently opened its first-

ever South African treatment centre, in Waterkloof, Pretoria.

Designed as a space for professional training, the centre is

open to consumers for treatments, as well as cut and blow

wave services. All eight of the brand’s therapeutic in-salon

treatments are available.

012 346 1721

Chatting to MusyokaLocal hair brand Blk Sapphire recently hosted its

first-ever seminar in South Africa, in Midrand, with

IAT-certified Kenyan trichologist, Muli Musyoka, who

spoke about different types of hair loss, the different

treatment options and preventative measures.

Sageone was an event sponsor, with assistance from

Dr Barbara Keitumetsi Mashope-Potgieter.

061 479 4377

Awesome coverColor Wow, the winner of an unprecedented

30 beauty industry awards, is an easy-to-apply,

temporary solution to gray roots and dark

regrowth. Proprietary oil-based mineral powder

binds to hair without being sticky or oily. The

water-resistant formula stays in place until

shampooed out and comes in seven versatile

shades.

011 305 1600

• Receive a CPD certificate• Invaluable networking opportunities• Claim your share in a booming market • Gain top tips and advice from industry experts• Discuss the issues and challenges facing by the

industry today • Learn about cutting-edge technologies, new

products and services

Book online at www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

Why should you attend?

CONVENTION 2016

12 and 13 March 2016ICC Cape Town

Rejuvenate your practice

Earn

10CPD Points

Don’t miss the opportunity to gain knowledge about the latest treatments, procedures, treatment tips, marketing and business strategies – all delivered by leading experts in their respective fields.If you are a medical aesthetics practitioner, therapist or you think that aesthetic medicine could benefit your business, then this is a must attend convention.


57 medical aesthetics trends

Ten years ago, it was only celebrities

and the extremely wealthy who

opted for aesthetic injectable

procedures like toxins and fillers.

More and more we are finding

these treatments commonplace among everyday

people, with acceptance of this form of anti-ageing

intervention having dramatically evolved.

Dr Alek Nikolic, an aesthetic practitioner

based in the Cape, says that he expects to see a

continuation in the growth in the popularity of

toxins worldwide. He feels, however, that this will

be more gradual in the developed countries, but

foresees a big increase in growth in South Africa

in 2016.

“I feel that fillers are underutilised in South

Africa for a number of reasons, including, but not

limited to, unnatural results, lack of proper injecting

technique of some of our local doctors, and

consumer fear. With good training and education

Medical aesthetics trends for 2016Karen ellithorne surveys experts’ opinions on what the medical aesthetics sector has in store for the coming year.

R



Fat transfers,Taking out fat from the

abdomen and putting

the healthy fat back

into the face or breast

is a growing industry, says Dr Duncan

Carmichael from the Institute of

Healthy Ageing In Cape Town.

“This type of treatment can achieve

results that other treatments can’t

hope to copy. The new generation fat-

removal machines make fat extraction

easy and non-painful. Although you

are advised to take the day off from

work, this is almost becoming a lunch-

time procedure,” he says. “Fat that is

transferred back into the skin also

comes with growth factors and stem

cells.

“After two months the results

do not just plump up the skin but

give a glow to an older skin from

the transferred stem cells. This is a

treatment to watch in 2016,” states

Carmichael.

Surgery, perspective, “The new trend in my

practice is that younger

patients are requesting

facelifts. Patients aged 40 to 45

want to prevent major surgery later

by starting younger,” says Dr Nerina

Wilkinson, plastic surgeon from

Renaissance Body Science Institute in

Cape Town.

“Liquid facelifts have become very

popular for rejuvenating faces. Facial

soft tissues are lost through ageing

and need to be replaced through 3D

volumetric treatments,” continues

Wilkinson. “A conventional facelift

removes flaccid skin to achieve a

tightening around the lower face.

However, rejuvenating the skin

and restructuring the soft tissues,

without pulling the facial tissues,

achieves a more natural youthful

appearance,” says Wilkinson.

She notes that for patients

who require extensive volume

replacement, the trend is to combine

regular hyaluronic gel fillers with a

stem cell facelift of lipostructure,

nano fat grafting and skin tightening

with resurfacing lasers.

“Nano fat injection is the latest

advancement and concept in fat

grafting. Studies have shown that

stem cells in the nano fat solution

are responsible for skin rejuvenation

and are a great advancement in

wrinkle treatment. Nano fat grafting

is used in all surgical face and brow

lifting, crow’s feet, forehead lines,

smokers’ lines and acne scarring

treatments. This technique improves

the outcome of all facial treatments

and facial surgery can now be even

less invasive,” Wilkinson explains.

In some patients, where

volumising techniques are not

sufficient, then sub-dermal threads

can be placed to lift the tissues

in conjunction with the other 3D

treatments to achieve a 4D lift.

“In my opinion, threads should be

used with a volumising treatment

for an optimal result,” advises

Wilkinson.

programmes, the techniques will

improve and with it consumers’

results, thus resulting in a dramatic

increase in dermal filler treatments,”

predicts Nicolic.

Dr Melanie Lambrechts, of The

Centre of Wellness in Sandton, adds:

“Dermal fillers are being used in new

and exciting ways, such as in the

eyebrow and chin areas, as well as the

earlobes. Botulinum toxin injections

are increasing, being used in a gentler

and more subtle way that respects

the fact that natural expression is

desirable.”.

Threads,She goes on to say that

threads and sutures

of many kinds are

being added to these

treatments to augment the lifting and

tightening of areas such as the heavy

jowl and mid-face area.

“My prediction for 2016 is a sharp

upward curve in the use of these

resorbable threads, as more doctors

are trained in their use and see the

boosted effect that can be achieved

with these powerful threads,”

comments Lambrechts.

1. 2.

3.



Peels,Within the peels sector of

aesthetics there is a trend

to place stronger peels

(TCA medium depth

peels) deeper into the skin by flushing

them down the holes made by derma-

rollers, according to Carmichael.

“In the past this was seen as a bad

idea, as there was a fear that the TCA

peel in the dermis of the skin was too

much of an irritant and would cause

itching and hypersensitivity under

the skin. This fear seems to have

melted away and people are pushing

peels deeper and harder to stimulate

collagen strengthening reactions,” he

says.

“However, on the other hand, there

is a quiet movement that maintains

that less is more if done regularly. They

believe that regular, gentle skin peels

in combination with other stimulating

procedures are not only a pleasant

experience but will slowly rebuild an

ageing skin. I think this is the direction

in which the peel industry should be

moving,” advises Carmichael.

Mesotherapy, Carmichael feels that there

is still room for growth in

the mesotherapy sector,

however it has unfortunately been

flattened by the excitement around

needling techniques of the skin and

PRP (platelet-rich plasma) growth

factor injections.

Ana Engelbrecht from AnaClinical

says the use of pre-mixed, clever

combinations of active ingredients

in a sterile ampoule is the trend for

2016. “This will allow the professional

to save time, achieve better

results and, hopefully, re-ignite the

industry’s interest in the benefits of

mesotherapy.”

Skin needling in, conjunction, with peptides,Says Wilkinson: “When

collagen is broken down,

short segments called peptides are

formed. These ‘mini proteins’ are

active and help restore the skin by

sending a signal to your skin that it

is damaged and needs to make new

collagen.

“Applying peptides directly to

your skin is a way to trick your skin

into thinking that it has lost collagen

recently and needs to make more.

Therefore skin products that contain

signal peptides are effective in

improving the appearance of fine lines

by stimulating the formation of new

collagen and regenerating the skin.

This is a trend in cosmeceuticals that

I expect to see grow in 2016.

“For a supercharged effect of these

collagen-boosting proteins, they can

be applied in conjunction with pen-

needling, a trend that began in 2014

and continues to still be very popular,

for enhanced penetration of actives

and a noticeable more youthful and

brighter skin,” suggests Wilkinson.

Vitamin infusions,High-dose vitamin in-

fusions, as an alternative

to oral supplementation,

have become the rage and have

started to make their way to our local

markets.

“For an infusion, vitamins are added

to a solution containing the same salt

concentration as your blood to aid

absorption and take about 20 to 30

minutes to infuse,” says Dr Kamlen

Pillay of Wembley Clinic in Cape Town.

“The doctor will prescribe a cocktail

of vitamins indicated for the patients’

needs and it seems that people do get

an immediate dramatic effect after

the treatment. However, there are no

proper controlled studies on these

treatments as yet,” he cautions.

On the skincare front, Carmichael

says the main ingredient in vitamin

drips is Glutathione. “This will help

with pigment reduction, but, like any

pigment treatment, the results are not

permanent and you need to consider

how much you are spending and how

much benefit you are getting.”

The clients of 2016 are well informed

and have done their research with

regards to aesthetic treatments. They

are usually visiting an aesthetic clinic

on the referral of a friend or colleague

who has had a treatment with a good

result.

“It’s our role as trained clinician

to put it all together in a package

that makes both financial and

scientific sense, as well as bringing

in the aesthetic and artistic goal of

natural-looking facial enhancement,”

concludes Lambrechts. PB

4.

5.

6.

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: [email protected]

7.

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In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products.

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BLAVA final option 2.pdf 2 3/13/2015 6:37:10 AM

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64 saahsp

The relevant learning programmes include:

• NationalDiploma:HealthandSkinTherapy;

• CIDESCODiploma:HealthandSkincareTherapy;

• CIBTACDiploma:HealthandSkincareTherapy; and

• SAAHSPDiploma:HealthandSkincare

Therapy.

The SAAHSP Quality Assurance Partner

(QAP) Delegation Function is defined as

follows:

• Accredits providers for the qualification

58310 National Diploma: Health and

Skincare;

• Monitors the provision by providers of

learning programmes leading to the

qualification;

• Evaluates learner facilitation, assessment

and the moderation of learner

assessments by providers;

• Registers assessors to undertake

assessments for specified qualifications;

• Certifies learners in accordance with

the policy determined by the Minister in

terms of section 26F of the SDA;

• Maintains a comprehensive learner

information management system;

• Uploads learner data to the NLRD

according to the NLRD load

specifications;

• Performs functions consistent with

the NQF Act and the SDA.

Any school wishing to

apply for accreditation

as a training provider

must apply to SAAHSP at [email protected], whereupon the QAP

checklist will be sent to the school.

On confirmation of application

for QAP, an invoice will be sent

to the school and on receipt of

payment, a date will be set aside

for the inspection. The duration of

the site visit can take up to three

hours and a report will then be

compiled by the external verifier.

All successful schools will be

listed as provisionally accredited

until the first external moderation

has been completed for the

applied learning programme.

The school will be accredited

after the first successful external

moderation has been achieved.

SAAHSP QAP will monitor

the provision by providers of

learning programmes leading to

the qualification, and an external

monitoring and moderation

process will be followed. Learner

assessment and facilitation of

moderation of learner assessment

by providers will be evaluated.

Assessors will be appointed

to undertake assessment for

specified qualifications.

Staff offering the above

qualifications must have

completed the following unit

standard and show proof that

their registration is for the

specified qualification. Proof can

be provided in terms of showing

your personal qualification e.g.

completion of the SAAHSP, ITEC,

CIDESCO or Higher Education

Qualification with a Registered

Training Provider.

SAQA US ID

UNIT

STANDARD

TITLE

115753

Conduct

outcomes-based

assessment

Staff will be required to register

with SAAHSP as educators with

proof of the above unit standard

achievement. The fee for 2016 is

R530 if paid before 31/3/16 (normal

rate = R562).

Learners will be certified

in accordance with the policy

determined by the Minister in terms

of section 26F of the SDA. SAAHSP

QAP shall issue a statement of

result with all relevant information

regarding the qualification and

will maintain a comprehensive

learner information management

system. SAAHSP utilises the mBase

database system that will capture

all relevant information required

to keep records as per SAQA

standards.

Learners will register with

SAAHSP annually (2016 fee = R175

per learner). PB

For more information contact Joelette Theron at the SAAHSP office on [email protected]

Cidesco Section South Africa Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

sAAHsP Professional Body has been appointed by the Quality Council for Trade and Occupations (QCTO) to quality assure all schools wishing to offer any or all of the learning programmes listed under the Qualification 58310: National Diploma: Health and skincare.

Quality assurance of schools

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Documents

Transcript of Pro Beauty Jan Feb 2016