Pro beauty jan feb 2015

Jan/Feb 2015

www.probeauty.co.za

To the pointMicro needling

Way to goStandard Operating Procedures

The big piTch Retail selling tips

Durban callingShow Preview

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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015

In this issue...Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news

58 Hair news What’s hot and happening in the

hair industry

64 Product news All the latest launches

70 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP

Business13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa Tracking the industry with stats

14 That all important acronym – SOP

How to ensure tip-top service

20 The subtle art of prescription Retail selling tips

24 East meets West – what’s new Beauty trends in the East

26 The EU classification maze Defining the term ‘cosmetic

products’

Spa Focus19 Revamp for Arabella Spa How the Arabella refurbished itself

Medical Aesthetics68 Results with retinol The benefits of vitamin A

41

1 & 2 MARCH

2015

30 The phenomenon of black skin revision

Facts and myths

34 Treating darker hues Suitable products for

African skin

41 Treatment Reviews Body contouring

51 Focusing on eczema How to treat this skin

condition

55 Needlepoint The latest on micro

needling

Nails60 Fashion at your fingertips Nail art

Features28 Professional Beauty Durban

Show Preview What to look out

for at KZN’s biggest show

55

30

68

28

34

durban

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, RandburgPO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com and www.dreamstime.com

Jan/Feb 2015

www.probeauty.co.za

To the pointMicro needling

Way to goStandard Operating Procedures

THE BIG PITCH Retail selling tips

DURBAN CALLINGShow Preview

AFRICANSKIN

FOCUS

BLACKis beautiful

DURBAN

On the coverCover source:www.istock.com

Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 [email protected]

Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 [email protected]

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 [email protected]

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Printers House of Print 011 474 8750

So, here we are at the beginning of another new year – a year that will

hopefully see salons, spas, distributors and manufacturers thrive, despite

the threat of power cuts and the challenge of an unfavourable exchange

rate, which translates into ever-increasing prices for imported products.

In this issue we introduce a regular feature called Insider Salon/Insider

Spa, the purpose of which is to track how the industry is faring in terms of business.

For this inaugural instalment of Insider Salon/Insider Spa, we look at how 2014

compared to 2013.

We always start the year off with a focus on African skin, and this issue includes

a fascinating article by acknowledged skincare expert Danné Montague-King, who

conducted in-depth research on the subject in South Africa in the 1980s.

There are also articles on how therapists can prescribe products to clients in

a way that should ensure sales, the importance of having an SOP (Standard

Operating Procedure) manual in your salon or spa, micro needling as a

skin rejuvenation modality, and body-contouring treatment reviews.

The Professional Beauty team is looking forward to the Professional

Beauty Durban Show, which will take place at the Durban ICC in its

brand-new time slot of 1 & 2 March. This issue includes a sneak peek at

just some of the exciting products and innovations that will be on display.

Joanna Sterkowicz

Editor

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industry news

Said the EOHCB’s Mariska du Plessis: “We saw the need for

therapist training that meets the requirements of both the

industry and the consumer sector. The new qualification

will move us closer to the ideal of the aesthetic therapist.

“This is just the beginning – now comes the roll-out and

ensuring all the schools take up the qualification. In three years

we will have our first crop of aesthetic therapists.”

Du Plessis thanked the National Bargaining Council for

facilitating the process of drawing up the qualification, and

Centurion Academy for being part of the beauty task team.

The EOHCB, UASA and City & Guilds signed an agreement of

collaboration at the launch.

News in pictures

NewsAll the news and views

from the world of beauty,

spa and nails.

5

The internationally recognised Industry Beauty Qualification (SA) was officially launched in Johannesburg on 19 November by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology & Beauty), UASA (The Union) and City & Guilds.

New Industry Beauty Qualification

On 24 November Marine Spa Distributors (MSD)

held an event to commemorate the 50th anniversary

of premium French skincare brand, Thalgo, at

Camelot Spa Villa d’Este in Johannesburg.

Thalgo’s area manager for South Europe, Middle

East and Africa, Frédéric Crosaz, was present at the

event. He said: “Thalgo is a family-owned company

with strong values. We are in 90 countries, in 500

prestigious resort spas all over the world.

“Thalgo invents the beauty of tomorrow. We

invest in advanced research in order to push the

boundaries of ‘Marine Intelligence’. This includes

developing new massage techniques, creating

ever more effective formulas and making an even

greater commitment to excellence.

“MCeutics is Thalgo’s first demaceutical brand

and will launch in 2015. This is our medical-like

approach to correcting skin disorders. The MCeutics

range is made with a very high concentration of

active ingredients.”

The event also served as the launch pad for

the Prodige Des Océans Essence, and Thalgo’s

new device, the I Beauty Ingenious Skin Solution,

which uses three technologies (sounds vibrations,

sequential ultrasound and radio-frequency) to

offer a complete facial treatment menu.

Perfect 10 Bedford Centre became the first

South African salon to purchase an I Beauty, closely

followed by Orange Peel in Cape Town.Senior advisor to Danish

cosmeceutical skincare

brand Beauté Pacifique,

Tilde Orum Sauer, visited

South Africa recently

to demonstrate the

Dermascan ultrasound

device to the local

market. Dermascan allows

therapists to analyse the

layers beneath the skin.

Pictured are Sauer (right)

and Natalie Oosthuizen

from South African

distributor, Prana.

Mariska du Plessis, Paul Fox, Orenna Krut and Stephen Delport

Frédéric Crosaz and brand ambassador Johanna Mukoki

MSD celebrates Thalgo’s 50th birthday


Skin iD offers chemical peels

to correct the signs of ageing,

hyperpigmentation and acne.

Donker has 20 years of experience

in the professional skincare industry,

having worked for companies such as

Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International,

Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and

pHformula.

Says Donker. “My passion for

chemical peeling dates back to when

I conducted training on chemical

peeling aimed at doctors, nurses and

therapists for Conquest Aesthetics

several years ago.”

Skin iD is situated adjacent to

the rooms of reconstructive and

plastic surgeon Dr Anton Potgieter,

Building on the strengths and

experience gained from the popular

SpaGuru desktop application,

SpaGuru CC has launched its new

online product, ChiDesk.

Key features include appointment

scheduling, point of sale, and marketing

and employee management. Support

for multiple locations is seamless,

Peeling clinic opens in Sandton

who will refer

patients to Donker

for their peeling

requirements.

Donker offers the

Dermaceutic range

of peels. “These peels

are only available in a

medical setting so I

want to differentiate

myself by working with these types

of brands that are not available in a

normal beauty salon.”

Skin iD also consults to companies

in the medical aesthetic industry.

Services include staff training,

education curriculum development

and PR services.

New online business tool

Internationally qualified professional skincare therapist Sonette Donker has opened Skin iD, a peeling practice located at Johannesburg’s Sandton Medi Clinic.

6 industry news

■ Sorbet launches skincare range: Nail and beauty salon

chain Sorbet has launched

Sorbet Skin Care, developed in

conjunction with Clicks.

■ Anesi infiltrates KZN: Five

salons in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN)

have taken on Spanish skincare

and body care range Anesi,

following a successful launch

event in Umhlanga hosted by

distributor Exclusive Beauty

Solutions.

■ Dermalogica increases its ‘Tribe’: Perfect 10 in Honeydew

Village, Roodepoort, has taken

on the Dermalogica brand.

■ Snow Algae Powder honoured: Based on the extract

of a unique algae that is able to

grow on glaciers and permanent

snow, Mibelle Biochemistry’s

Snow Algae Powder has won the

Frost & Sullivan Best Practices

European Anti-Ageing Skin

Care New Product Innovation

Leadership Award.

■ MUD opens three new showrooms: Make-Up Designory

(MUD) showrooms have opened

in the Free State, Northern Cape

and Nelspruit, Mpumalanga.

■ DMK SA appoints ambassador: Danne Montague-

King South Africa (DMK SA) has

appointed popular TV presenter

Liezel van de r Westhuizen

(Idols, Expresso) as ambassador.

News in brief

allowing the user to control multiple

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A locally hosted version of ChiDesk

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due to international internet outages.

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8 industry news

different climate regions in South

Africa to use and test laboratory

samples on themselves, as well as

their clients. According to their

feedback and recommendations,

the Hannon laboratory samples were

adjusted and often reformulated

over a period of 11 years. During this

development stage the samples were

used and tested on individuals with a

range of skin sensitivities. No reports

of irritation to these products have

been reported to date.

Team celebrity tanner Darryn

Johnson has joined Vita Liberata

South Africa from the UK as sales

executive and head trainer.

Johnson will not only train

all Vita Liberata’s Western Cape

salons and spas, but will also be

the in-house private hire ‘Tanista’

for clients who wish to receive a

Vita Liberata home experience.

The company’s Hannon Bothma

describes himself as a ‘walking

experiment’ for the range,

which was developed in

association with cosmetic

and chemistry engineers

from the University of

the North-West and the

University of South Africa, as

well as a selected group of

beauty therapists.

“We have launched

Hannon Skin Care with 16 products,

including two cleansers, a toner, two

exfoliators, two serums, two masks

and a variety of moisturisers.

“The range is formulated with

the patented ingredient, Moist 24,

which reverses the ageing process

and remains active for 24 hours.

It is derived from an extract from

the roots of a plant called Imperata

Cyllindrica,” says Bothma.

He notes that he personally

selected beauty therapists from the

Celebrity tanner for Vita Liberata

Radiant Healthcare sponsored

prize packages of the Velashape

III and Cooltech Fat Freeze for

the winner and finalists of the

Rapport newspaper competition

News in pictures

South African hair and make-up brand Hannon has launched a professional skincare range – the result of 11 years of development.

New SA skincare range

Newdevelopmentat Babor

Babor South Africa has appointed

Nina Von Wielligh as its new sales

representative for Cape Town.

Before starting her journey with

Babor, Von Wielligh, who was born

and raised in Cape Town, worked as

a paramedical therapist and has a

strong passion for skincare.

“Nina’s extensive skincare

knowledge, coupled with a

meticulous work ethic, makes her a

valuable asset to every Babor client,”

says Leigh-Anne Wagner, Babor

South Africa’s brand manager.

for the new film, Leading Lady. Pictured are the Radiant

Healthcare team at the film’s

première with the winner Elsa

Doubell (in white dress).

Darryn Johnson

Nina Von Wielligh


10 industry news

The brainchild of Prana MD

Debbie Wolfendale and

business partner Nicola Tyler,

Prana & Co was officially launched

on 13 November. It offers beauty, nail,

nutrition and aesthetic treatments, as

well as alternative therapies.

Says Tyler: “Debbie and I wanted to

Dermalogica has announced that

two of its staff have been promoted

– Claudia da Silva (formerly

operations manager) is now general

manager, while financial manager

Aimee Hollis has been appointed as

a director of the company.

do something different with the Prana

name, realising that only through

collaboration would the business

succeed. We’ve been talking about

Prana & Co for the past three years.

It’s been a big shift to move from

distribution to a service and retail

business.”

Dermalogica staff upwardly mobile

Luzinda De Meyer has joined the

Poise Brands team as Mio Skincare

business development consultant for

Eastern and Western Cape.

Poise Brands has appointed

Barbara Meintjies as Juliette Armand

business developer for Gauteng and

Surrounds.

Tina Scholtz has been appointed as

president of SAAHSP (South African

Association of Health and Skincare

Professionals).

With over 40 years of experience in

the industry, Scholtz, who is owner of

the Potchefstroom Academy, has always

been actively involved with improving

industry standards. She has been on the

SAAHSP board on and off for the past 20

years, and served as vice-president for

several years.

Scholtz also held the position of

professional body coordinator and

Scholtz appointed SAAHSP president

She notes that Wolfendale

took a long time to identify the

people who would make up the

‘& Co’ part of the wellness lounge.

These include aesthetic doctor

Melissa Smith, chiropractor Debbie

Harmon, nutritionist Jocelyn

Thompson and Tamarin Barker,

who offers lesion/blemish removal

services with a radio frequency

device. Each of the above runs

their own business under the Prana

ethos.

Wolfendale has developed

several bespoke signature beauty

treatments for the wellness lounge

that are a mix of Eastern and

Western cultures.

The front of the wellness lounge

acts as the showroom for the range

of products distributed by Prana.

Poise team expands

chairperson for the committee,

developing the generic National

Diploma Health and Skincare.

In what is believed to be a unique concept, import company Prana has launched a wellness lounge at Planet Fitness Wanderers in Johannesburg,

Importer launches wellness lounge


13 business trends

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN 2014

COMPARE TO 2013?

Insider Insider is our new and exclusive business round-up. We polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Cape Town, East London, Durban and Port Elizabeth to gauge how 2014 panned out for the industry.

INSIdER SAlONIt is evident that salon owners

found 2014 a challenging year

due to the poor economy, the

weak exchange rate, power cuts

and petrol price increases. Yet

despite this, more than half of

you experienced a growth in

treatment business.

The biggest revenue generators

in terms of treatments in 2014

were waxing and pedicures,

while the most popular nail treatments were gel and

standard manicures.

Most respondents to the Insider survey cited sourcing

suitable staff as their biggest concern, as well as finding

new clients.

The year in numbers

PERCENTAGE OF BUSINESS GENERATED

BY RETURN CLIENTSIN 2014

81%

AVERAGE TREATMENT PRICE INCREASE IN 2014

9%

INSIdER SPAAll respondents to the survey reported a growth

in treatment business in 2014 – a sure sign that the

global wellness trend is alive and well in South Africa.

However, the growth in treatment business from

spa to spa varied quite considerably, with one spa

reporting a 1% increase, while another cited a 65%

increase. This vast disparity between numbers must

be taken into consideration when reading the figure

of average growth in treatment business quoted

below.

Only four spas did not increase treatment prices

in 2014.

As one would expect, the most overwhelmingly

popular treatment at spas in 2014 was massage.

The biggest problem currently experienced by spa

managers is finding suitably trained staff members

who are committed to the job.

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM

OCCUPANCY IN 2014

67%

58% BETTER

10% SAME

32% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN 2014

COMPARE TO 2013?

47% BETTER

21% SAME

32% WORSE

82% BETTER

18% WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN 2014

COMPARE TO 2013?

AVERAGE TREATMENT PRICE INCREASE IN 2014

9.4%

AVERAGEGROWTH IN TREATMENT

BUSINESS IN 2014 COMPARED TO 2013

20%

AVERAGE TREATMENT

ROOM OCCUPANCY

69%


business tips

14

Have you ever called a

salon to make a booking

and found that the

telephone is answered

differently all the time?

Have you ever had the same

treatment with a different therapist

and one treatment was amazing while

the other was absolutely awful?

Do you sometimes get offered

homecare advice and given a

professional product recommend-

ation, and sometimes not?

Is your facility sometimes spotless

and at other times a little messy?

I am 100% sure that you can relate

to at least one of the above.

One of the biggest challenges

faced by beauty salons and spas is to

standardise the level of service within

the business. This can ONLY be done

with a Standard Operating Procedures

(SOP) Manual which, in my opinion,

needs to be issued to each new staff

member, in conjunction with a full

training session of about three

weeks on these procedures.

Do you have an SOP manual in

your business? I won’t be surprised if

you say no, as this is a mammoth task

to complete. But I can assure you

that once you have a template and a

few procedures in place, you will see

how necessary it is to operate your

business from this manual.

DEFINITIONAn SOP is a written document

outlining the company’s policies and

procedures.

WHY DO YOU NEED ONE?

To standardise procedures, to

ensure consistency, to ensure that

the company expectations are

clear and precise, to maintain the

highest international standards,

and to upgrade service delivery

continuously.

With service and customer satisfaction a key element for sustainability and survival, Marisa Dimitriadis looks at what steps spas need to take to ensure tip-top service and make customers return.

That all important acronym – SOP

R

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business tips

16

HOW DO I GO ABOUT THIS?

It’s a huge task to decide what

procedures you want to standardise

in your business.

Here are some MUST HAVE’S:

• Taking a booking

• Confirming a booking

• Giving directions

• Answering calls

• Guest arrival and welcome

• Treatment room set-up

• Locker set-up

• Cancellation of bookings

• No appointment on arrival

• Payment confirmations

• Department checklists

• Receiving stock from a supplier

• Start of every treatment

• Treatment procedure

• End of every treatment

• Dealing with a complaint

• Guest check-out

• Sexual harassment

• Dealing with colleagues

• Therapist grooming

And the list continues. In our

business every time we have a

misunderstanding of how things

should be done, we implement an

SOP immediately. For example,

someone called in to our offices the

other day and asked for directions

and neither the receptionist or

accountant knew how to give

directions. Our general manager

immediately implemented an SOP

on ‘How to direct a client to our

office’. Now there can be no doubt as

the entire procedure is documented

step by step.

Above is a real example of an

SOP document.

Now your task is to first decide on

a list of SOPs and then take one at a

ANGEL SPA POLICIES AND PROCEDURES

Subject: Receiving of stock Code: AS6020

Division: Management/Front Desk/Therapists

Standard: Receive stock quickly and in a professional manner away from the reception area.

Policy: Stock to be placed in the storeroom and to be checked by management or receptionists only.

time and decide what you want your

business standard to be. Then discuss

it with staff and get their input and

create a final manual.

Implementation The next mammoth task is how to

implement and maintain the SOPs.

Some pointers below:

• Issueeachstaffmemberwitha

draft manual

• Allowtimetostudy

• Role-playEVERYsingleSOP

• Role-playasecondtimewith

different staff

• Allowstaffinteractionand

feedback

• Makefinalchanges

• Allowtimetostudy

• Writtenexamination

• MysteryguestreviewforALL

staff over a three-month period

The success of your SOP manual

lies in how often you refer to it,

meaning that when a staff member

makes a mistake or does something

that is not according to company

policy and procedure, a formal

reference to the SOP manual must be

made and all staff made aware of it.

This way the next time a staff member

is not sure, they will refer to the SOP

manual.

You also need to update your

manual at least once a year. Staff must

be retrained in full on the manual at

least once a year, even if they know it

off by heart.

It’s necessary to continuously add

to the manual as the need arises. The

second the need arises for another

SOP, don’t waste time and draw one

up immediately and implement. PB

Marisa dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on [email protected] for more information.

Procedure:

Receive stock through the front door and immediately move it to the storeroom.

Sign the delivery sheet

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS STOCK TO BE LEFT LYING AT THE RECEPTION AREA

Check stock quantity is correct and quality of packaging good in storeroom

Tick next to each and every product on the invoice to confirm that it is in the box

Discrepancies on invoice to be immediately reported to accounts department of supplier and noted on the invoice.

Date, name and sign on the invoice of the person who checked the stock

Place checked invoice in the INVOICES TO BE LOADED IN the system tray in store room

Price retail stock according to prices on the system

Place priced retail stock on the retail shelves

Place professional stock on relevant product tray or shelf

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19 spa focus

Opened in 2001, the

Arabella Hotel & Spa

nestles on the scenic

route from Cape

Town to Kleinmond,

between the majestic Kogelberg

Mountains and the Botriver Lagoon.

According to assistant spa manager

Jenny Kusel, the refurbishment of the

spa has resulted in four additional

treatment rooms.

“We now have a total of 17 treatment

rooms, as well as a couples’ room. As a

result of this expansion, we have taken

on more therapists to meet the high

client demand,” she explains.

Kusel also notes that the

gym at the Arabella Hotel & Spa

was upgraded this year. “This

upgrade correlates to the latest

trends in fitness centres, such as

the cardiovascular machine with

personal viewing and television

features, elliptical machines, etc.”

When asked how the Arabella

Spa, winner of the 2014 Les

Nouvelles Esthétiques Award for

Best Hotel Spa, differentiates itself

in the local and African spa markets,

Kusel responds: “The serenity and

ambience of the spa offers an oasis

of tranquility, enhancing the flow

of energy, bringing mind, body and

soul in harmony. The passion of

our team introduces the guest to a

journey of rejuvenation and good

health.”

She reveals that the most popular

brands at the Arabella Spa are Babor,

Six Sensational Skincare, Spalicious,

The spa at the Arabella Hotel in Hermanus recently underwent a six-month long refurbishment while still remaining fully operational throughout, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Revamp for Arabella Spa

SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Hospitality Property Fund (HPF)

Management: African Pride Hotels Group

Opened: August 2001

Size: 1 250m2

Number of treatment rooms: 17 and 1 couples’ room

Number of permanent therapists: 12

Hydro facilities: Rasul chamber, indoor heated hydro pool, steam rooms, saunas, cold stream showers

Mama Mio, OPI and Lilian Terry,

while the most requested

treatment is the full body massage.

Signature treatmentThe Arabella Spa is known for its

African Rain Forest Treatment, a

world first. Inspired by the African

rains, this is a two-hour sensory

water and steam treatment that

was created exclusively for the

spa, using African products. PB


20 business tips

The subtle art of prescription

Retail sales should tie in directly with the business strategy and planning of any spa or salon, writes Francisco Garcia.

For a day spa or a salon, with quite a

substantial amount of return clients,

retail sales should account for about

40% of total turnover, whereas 30%

is a good ratio for a resort hotel spa

or destination spa.

Therapists know in advance how their bookings

look for the next day, so they should plan their

retail sales the day before a client arrives for their

appointment.

The cornerstone of selling retail is consultation.

This assists in creating a conversation (ie. opening

the sale), which, in turn, leads to the therapist making

a recommendation and the client re-booking another

appointment. The therapist can then formulate an

ideal home care regime for the client.

business tips

21

Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015

Consultation I cannot stress enough the importance of the

consultation process and the power that it has.

Pre-printed consultation cards must be

available for each client to complete just before

their treatment. Ideally the therapist needs to read

the client card in full prior to seeing the client.

The therapist should then sit down with the client

at eye level and engage in a formal two-minute

consultation, so as to develop a rapport and thus

open the sale.

There is a lot of psychology and preparation

involved in a proper consultation. Some therapists

spend five full minutes doing a correct and thorough

consultation; they draw the physiognomy of the

muscle or skin on the back of the consultation

card for the client to

understand exactly what

they are going to do.

A study has been

done on the specific way

to sit the client – with

their back facing the

treatment room door to

ensure that they focus

only on the therapist

with no distractions. The

study also shows how

to sit the client back

up after the treatment

is finished; how to

put slippers/shoes on

when doing the retail

recommendation at the

end of the treatment;

and how therapists can be trained to ask questions

so that clients are compelled to reply ‘Yes’.

During the consultation the therapist must

confirm the treatment/s to be done and refer to

at least one item on the card. Make sure you write

down what the client says and ask: What is your

main concern? Where is your main concern? Why

is there a concern there? And the most powerful

question is: WHEN do you want to see results?

Remember that rapport is the most important

step to ensure a sale and client loyalty.

Recommendation The next stage is the all-important recommendation

– your suggestion of what should be done. You

could say something like: ‘Try to have a facial more

often’.

Following the recommendation comes the

prescription – this is the written instruction

(prescription sheet) officially telling someone

what they need and how to use it.

There is a lot of psychology and preparation involved in a proper consultation. Some therapists spend five full minutes doing a correct and thorough consultation.

R


business tips

22

In terms of the actual sale, focus on what your client

needs and what makes your client happy. Very often

therapists HARD SELL instead of HEART SELL. As

therapists are paid commission on the retail products

they sell, they sometimes think, ‘What products can I sell

to help me get closer to my retail target?’ instead

of ‘Which products does this client need

specifically?’ You need to ensure that

your client buys the product from you

and not from someone else.

Identify wants, needs, and

objectives. Talk less and listen more.

Ask relevant questions. Create the

need and suggest a solution in a

way that they have never thought

about before. For instance, you

could say: ‘Think of how much

money you spend on coffee each

day? Now, I can guarantee you that

this product will last you three months

and the cost per application is a quarter

of what you spend in coffee per day.’

Before you finish the treatment ensure your

client is in a comfortable position so that he/she can give

you her full attention. Tell the client that the treatment

is not finished yet and that you are going to get them a

glass of water and then when you return, you will discuss

their treatment recommendation.

Always offer two options for home care: Option 1 is

the biggest quantity of the product – ‘the ideal purchase’,

while Option 2 is the smaller size – ‘the one you can’t be

without’.

Mention the product’s name, price, size, what it

does and add a couple of ingredients. It is here where

the therapist needs to make sure she adapts her sales

pitch to the client’s personality. Hand the client the

prescription form with the products listed on it only at

the very end of the treatment, before the client is about

to walk out of the room, or tell them you will leave the

copy of the prescription inside the bag with the products

recommended.

And ask the magic questions: ’Would you like to take

the products? Can I put these in a bag for you?’

Francisco Garcia is the group spa operations director of Amani Spas and has been in the industry since 2008. He was formerly spa director of Arabella Hotel and Spa, and, prior to that, spa manager of Mount Grace Country House. Email: [email protected]

What not to forgetWhen selling retail use the power of smell and

texture. Sell the reasons why your client can’t live

without the products.

Makes sure you rebook your client’s next

appointment and make bookings as far in

advance as you can. Call them a maximum

of one week later and try to rebook

them.

For a resort hotel spa, find out

how long the client’s stay is and,

depending on the length, when

the client comes for a massage

they could actually rebook

another massage for the next day.

Too often therapists are obsessed

with removing knots in the back,

which can result in bruising the

muscle. Rather do as much as

you can without bruising and try to

rebook your client for another massage.

StrategyTherapists need to make a conscious effort to plan

and strategise their sales in advance to reach their

targets. A proper analysis and evaluation of their

daily performance must take place so they can adapt

their sales technique or approach.

Spa managers should assist their teams in starting

this process, but the rest is up to the therapists.

Following a step by step guide is recommended.

Remember – the therapist is in charge of their pay

cheque. The amount of commission they generate

is in their hands alone. They have to believe in the

process, and only they can make it happen. PB

Always offer two options for home care: Option 1 is the biggest quantity of the product – ‘the ideal purchase’, while Option 2 is the

smaller size – ‘the one you can’t be

without’.

HERE IS A STEP-By-STEP gUIDE FOR THE THERAPIST:1. Plan your month ahead;2. Set tough personal goals; 3. Plan your treatment upgrades and

your retail for the day;4. Plan each client that you will see for

the day;5. Set goals for every single client you

will see.

7 SUPER-CHARGED FACIALS. 5 TECHNOLOGIES. 1 MACHINE.

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business tips

24

Visiting Cosmoprof Hong Kong

was everything I hoped it would

be – exciting, stimulating and a

great learning experience.

I was excited to check

out what was new for our industry. It was

intriguing to see that the beauty market in

the East mainly supports French and English

cosmetic brands, rather than dominating

with its own products, as is done in so many

other industries.

One of the East’s cutting-edge brands that

did make big news was the product called Rice

Force. Derived purely from rice, it focuses on natural

fermentation technology.

A new French brand that caught my eye, Gemology,

was founded by Chrystelle Lannoy. The concept is

based on the cosmetic properties of 19 precious and

semi-precious minerals. It uses diamonds, jade and

sapphires, among others, and, through a chemical

process, transforms them into trace minerals, which are

just brilliant for the skin.

Micro needling was represented by many companies

and is big business today. The needles pierce the skin,

creating a natural healing and rejuvenating effect. If

you prefer something more commercial, there were

tons of sonic brush cleansing units and a wide range of

inexpensive vibrating facial massage apparatus. These

are less invasive and much more affordable.

Lash extensions are still very popular – lashes with

diamonds, glitter and even flowers!

And then there were stalls and stalls of body décor.

Stick-on tattoos are huge – funky or sophisticated,

ranging from glow-in-the-dark, to glitter, to traditional

dragons. They’re a great idea, pain-free and very hip.

Nail art has been around for a while, with a multitude

of ranges of jewels, stickers and even 3D nail options.

It’s wild, it’s big and it’s beautiful.

The East does dominate in one area, and that is with

equipment. There are so many options for

laser, slimming and rejuvenation machines

available there. Great machines, but the good

news is that we have lots of them in South Africa. The new

I Beauty device with a sound vibration spatula, sequential

ultrasound, and tripolar radio-frequency is a technological

and treatment ingenuity with absolutely amazing results.

On the spa front the Four Seasons, Landmark, Peninsula

and the Ritz Carlton wowed me. But I also realised how

lucky we are in South Africa – our spa treatments are

inexpensive in comparison, at almost a third of the price.

To end my stay, I had a two-hour spa treatment starting

at 9.30 pm. They work long hours in Hong Kong! The

standard and experience was exceptional. I felt like I had

gone to heaven and loved the idea of a night treatment,

where I could roll into bed in my hotel and carry on with

that heavenly sensation.

Pure deliciousness. Especially after all the walking I did

at Cosmoprof. Zzzzzz…PB

It wasintriguing to seethat the beauty

market in the East mainly supports

French and English cosmeticbrands.

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

East meets West – what’s new?Keen to compare the business of beauty in the East to that in South Africa, Debbie Merdjan attended the recent Cosmoprof Hong Kong trade show.

Calgel

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26 business tips

Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.

The term ‘cosmetic

products’ covers

a wide range of

products, but not

every product that

we may consider to be a cosmetic

in everyday life would actually be

classified as a cosmetic product in

the EU.

So, would your product be

classified as a cosmetic product

in the EU? In order to provide a

positive answer to this question,

your product has to fulfil certain

criteria. According to the current

cosmetics legislation in the EU

(regulation 1223/2009), the product

has to be a substance or a mixture

intended to be placed in contact

with the external parts of the human

body (epidermis, hair system, nails,

lips and external genital organs)

or with the teeth and the mucous

membranes of the oral cavity with

a view exclusively or mainly to clean

them, perfume them, change their

appearance, protect them, keep

them in good condition or correct

body odours.

Therefore, products that may

seem to be cosmetics, like nail

wraps, are not cosmetics even

though they are placed in contact

with the external parts of the human

body and their primary function is

to change the appearance of nails,

but they wouldn’t be considered a

substance or a mixture. Similarly, for

example, a comb or

a tooth brush are not

cosmetics.

Since products have to

be placed in contact with the

external parts of the human body

or with the teeth and the mucous

membranes of the oral cavity, any

product intended to be ingested,

inhaled, injected or implanted into

the human body would also not be

considered a cosmetic product in

the EU. Breast implants, therefore,

are not cosmetics, even though their

primary function is also to change

appearance.

ClaimsClassification of the product often

depends on the claims which

the manufacturer makes for that

product. This is especially the

case with the so-called borderline

products, where products have

characteristics of more than one

product category, and it is therefore

difficult to classify them. Cosmetic

products can be borderline with

medical devices, pharmaceuticals,

biocides, toys etc.

As explained above, cosmetic

products should have the function

of exclusively or mainly cleaning,

perfuming, changing appearance,

protecting, keeping in good condition

or correcting body odours. The

intended function does, among other

things, not include products presented

as having properties for treating or

preventing disease in human beings.

Therefore mentioning, or visually

presenting, any diseases on cosmetic

product labels is not allowed. Neither

is using words or phrases which

present a medicinal intent, such as:

cures, heals, treats, restores, prevents,

clears, protects against disease, helps

control the symptoms of, traditionally

used for treatment of, strengthens the

immune system etc. PB

The EU classification maze

Continuing our series on the challenges of entering the EU market, this time Tadej Feregotto looks at which products are classified as cosmetics in the EU.


professional beauty durban

28

APS will demonstrate how offering a

Studex ear-piercing service (for belly,

nose and ear) can increase income and

foot traffic into salons.

Discover Babor’s latest spa concept for

your professional beauty business. Find

out why over 150 partners have already

opened a Babor Beauty Spa, and what

makes them so profitable.

Beauty by Nature – Moyou Africa offers

high-quality, long-lasting nail designs and

nail decorations.

Best Lasers is proudly the sole Southern African

distributor of Alma Lasers, a global developer,

manufacturer and provider of laser, light-based, radio-

frequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and

medical applications.

Bio Sculpture Gel, inventor of the world’s first soak-

off gel and first colour gel, continues to create colour

ranges and exclusive manicure, pedicure and spa

products, combined with innovative accessories.

BTL Industries designs and manufactures non-

surgical machines for fat-dissolving, skin-tightening,

anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL

treatments.

Primary ingredients of Bo-D-VINE products are Shea

butter, ginseng root and activated charcoal.

Creative Glamour will launch new foundations,

powders, gel eyeliners and mascara and offer high-

quality, affordable brushes and accessories.

The EGN Shellac original vitamin-infused UV/LED

soak off 1 & 3 step gel is available in 426 trendsetting

fashion forward colours – no formaldehyde, no DBP

and no toluene.

ESP’s latest spa and salon software

includes major enhancements to

the loyalty system, multi-branch

integration with enterprise control,

group gift vouchers, Web browser

access (which also offers access

via smart phones and tablets),

new reports and new Business

Intelligence.

Sold to over 20 countries, eyeSlices

is an award-winning, relaxing, re-

usable eye treatment pad that

targets puffiness, dark circles,

tiredness, red eyes and anti-ageing

in just five minutes.

Graftobian HD Professional Make-up

will exhibit at the show for the first

time. Products include: professional

cosmetics, fantasy make-up,

airbrush make-up, Halloween make-

up, theatrical make-up and Moulage

make-up.

Gwenya Salon Organics is an all-

new natural range of affordable,

bulk body treatment products, from

scrubs to massage and masks.

Hitech Lasers will exhibit the Lumenis

M22 Multi-application Platform (IPL,

Nd:YAG, Q-switched Nd:YAG and

ResurFX), as well as the LightSheer

Diode pain-free hair removal laser.

Three LightSheer Diode Lasers are

offered in South Africa: LightSheer

Duet, Desire and Infinity. A 3-year

service plan is offered on all Lumenis

products.

Kryolan will offer a 20% discount off

all products.

Come and witness Lamprobe

instantly remove many different

types of lesions/blemishes at its

stand.

In its exciting new time slot of 1 and 2 March, the 2015 Professional Beauty Durban Show, which takes place at the ICC, will showcase a wealth of exciting new products and innovations.

1 & 2 MARCH

2015

durban’s top beauty days

business tips

29 29

Nature’s Essence will launch the Papaya range,

called TBC by Natures.

Pure Smile is the only 100% natural teeth-

whitening supplier in South Africa and will

offer a show special.

Rainbow Bath and Beauty will exhibit natural,

Beauty without Cruelty-endorsed products,

including natural soy massage candles,

aromatherapy bath salts, salt scrubs and lip

balms.

RégimA's cutting-edge range, The Zone,

utilises combinations of supremely advanced

technology for maximum anti-ageing. The

Zone Power Peels combine six natural acids.

Launching in KZN at Professional

Beauty Durban, Skinny Tan is a

natural self-tanning lotion that

immediately reduces the visual

effects of cellulite.

SkinTECH will launch Enerpeel

Chemical Peels and Akni Care

lotion and cream from Italy. PB

Lay’s Beauty will launch its hair

treatment oil (at a very affordable

price) and a treatment oil for muscle

pain and arthritic conditions. There are

show specials on Lay’s tissue oil spray,

essentials oils, Tantra-licious massage

oils, carrier oils, creams and soaps.

Lilian Terry International – creator of

homeopathic aromatherapy – will offer

a 10%-off show special and showcase

its LT FlexyCups, facial gels, toners and

massage oil complexes.

Make-Up Designory (MUD) will exhibit at

Professional Beauty Durban for the first

time since its launch in South Africa.

Cost-effective and award-winning Viora

body-sculpting and skin-rejuvenation

systems will be on offer at the Medilase

stand. The Viora V30 multi-application

platform with four hand pieces, including

Fractional RF skin rejuvenation for all

skin types, IPL, skin-tightening, RF and

Nd: YAG, will be showcased.

Nailsforu will offer massive discounts

on the full range of the award-winning

nailsforu product range and introduce a

polish range.


african skin

As far back as the 1980s, when I was researching Black skin treatments in Chicago, I became aware of many factors that went far beyond mere pigmentation, writes Danné Montague-King.

The phenomenon of Blackskin revision

30

business tips

31


Pigmentation is the least of the

differences between Black and

Caucasian skins, Black skin having a

superior cell structure and defence

mechanism.

In addition, Black skin cells proliferate at a

more rapid rate than Caucasian skin cells. This is

why when you place a 50-year-old White lady and

Black lady side by side, the latter lady will appear

years younger, with very few lines and wrinkles as

compared to the other woman. In the USA there

is an amusing term – ‘Black don’t crack’ – tossed

around by the community. I was quite surprised to

hear this same term used in South Africa during a

recent visit, and it’s true!

This rapid proliferation of cells has one

downside: it makes skin more susceptible to keloid

scars, a disorder very common to Black skin.

Rete pegs, the conduits of nutrients to the

underlying basal cells, are also stronger and

somewhat more numerous than those in Caucasian

and other ethnicities. Indian skin, for example, is

fairly fragile. The myth that deeper-toned Indian

skin should be treated the same as Black skin

has led to many problems for skin therapists and

dermatologists.

Pigment I believe it is totally false that Black skin has more

melanocytes than any other skin colour.

The number of melanin cells is approximately

the same for all races, but the pigmentation

inside the melanin cells is packaged differently.

Imagine melanin cells to look like jelly beans. Inside

the Asian jelly bean the actual pigmentation,

manufactured by the golgi apparatus organelle,

would be about 75% of the bean, with a lot of

natural beta carotene in it, which accounts for the

‘gold’ or ‘yellow’ undertone of people from Asia.

Caucasian skin’s jelly beans may contain about

66% of the pigmentation but Black skin’s jelly

beans would be full of pigmentation to the border

of the bean.

Distribution of the melanin cells over the body

is also quite different; Caucasian people’s melanin

is displayed in the ‘sub-epidermis’ area, while Black

people’s melanin is distributed copiously on the

entire epidermal surface and even down into the

pores. This creates a highly reflective surface that

bounces away much of the harmful radiation from

constant sun.

One might think that with all of these superior

‘positives’ Black skin could survive anything,

including skincare products for general use by all

ethnicities. WRONG!

Most Black clients will know what it means to

get ‘the ashy’s’ after using general use products.

This is a redundant group of cells – excess corneum

that builds up leaving the skin dull with a faint R


32

The same mind set

was also predominant

in the USA back in the

1950s, but when the

racial, social and economic

revolutions took place, all of

this changed.

Nowadays African-Americans

are proud of the tones they were born

with – whether it be the lightest café

au lait or the deepest ebony. People

glory in a rainbow of rich browns

in all the undertones, be they red,

yellow, gold or even olive. What they

do want is for these wonderful tones

to be even and smooth. And bright,

not white.

In South Africa a Caucasian beauty

therapist untrained in the science and

unique qualities of Black skin will not

be a trusted first. This will change as

more training is made available.

I appeal to all Black therapists,

dermatologists and even general

practitioners and nurses to seek out

specialised training in this field – and

realise that it is a specialised field. PB

african skin

greyish over-tone. Often misconstrued

as ‘dry skin,’ it is actually only very fast

cell proliferation that is still attached

to the underlying corneum barrier.

Treating black skinThe first step is a proper cleanser.

It should soften the excess cuticle

barrier but not strip the skin of natural

sebaceous oils that represent one half

of Nature’s natural moisturiser, the

acid mantle.

Contrary to popular belief, most

Black skin is not excessively oily or

lipid-rich. The ‘shine’ seen on persons

with deeper skin tones is merely a

reflection of light, not excess oils.

Herbal-based liquid cleansers are

best. There are many ‘soap’ plants,

such as white oak bark, which are

deep-cleansing without being sebum-

stripping. These types of herbs

(Burdock is another) help to soften

up the dead cells with a natural,

astringent surfactant action.

Enzyme-based masques,

professionally applied, totally remove

the excess cuticle, especially in the

case of pseudofollicultis (razor bumps)

suffered by many Black males.

Due to Black hair being oval in

configuration, the ends of the hair

are flat and sharp. Think of the excess

cuticle as being rather like shingles on

a roof as viewed under a microscope.

The sharp hair catches under these

‘shingles’ and is re-directed back

down into the living tissue, causing it

to become irritated and inflamed.

The new baby cells in that area

perceive this as an ‘unnatural’ situation

and try to encapsulate the problem by

forming new cells around it – forming

a type of ‘granuloma’ that results in

a visible and uncomfortable bump

on the surface of the epidermis. Men

with kinky textured hair are afraid to

shave this area with a normal razor,

which cuts through the bump and

results in bleeding, scabbing and

hyperpigmentation. Regular enzyme

treatments totally alleviate this

problem.

On female clients this type of

treatment not only removes all the

‘ashy’s’ but brightens the skin totally,

bringing out its even tone while lifting

away unsightly dark areas around the

mouth, across the forehead and

under the eyes.

Follow-up and daily

products should include natural

moisturising with a herbal spray,

a highly fractionated oil blend

that resembles sebum as closely

as possible (including a blend of

tocopherols and other anti-oxidants)

and crèmes that have an acidic base

as opposed to alkaline.

Alkaline crèmes and soaps

above pH5.3 dull the skin

and compound the ashy

appearance.

F e r m e n t e d

orange peel oil in

a transepidermal

crème base is

excellent at

b r i g h t e n i n g

up deeper skin

tones.

Mental attitudeDuring my early years of research in

South Africa on Black skins, dealing

with problems of acne (teen and adult

onset varieties), hyperpigmentation

and the hydroquinone poisoning

disease, ochronosis, I discovered the

mind set of ‘whiter skin is better skin’

to be rampant in the Black community.

This gave an open door to all kinds

of quacks, unscrupulous pharmacists

and ‘beauty experts’ to sell people

hideous concoctions with very high

percentages of hydroquinone and

even bird guano with household

bleach! I have seen skin so suppurated

with infection that cancer was one

stop away.

danné Montague-King has won international recognition and endorsement by the medical profession for pioneering a skin rejuvenation system that recognises the importance of offering skin cells a chemistry they recognise. He is founder of the DMK skincare empire.

Contrary topopular belief,

most Black skinis not excessively

oily orlipid-rich.

Pigmentationis the least of the

differences betweenBlack and Caucasian

skins, Black skinhaving a superior cell structure and defence

mechanism.

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White Cream Strip Wax100 ml universal cartridge. Large roller head, with plastic over-cap. Low operating temperature of 48 degrees Celsius. Leaves no sticky residue on the skin! No skin redness after a wax. Suitable for male and female clients. FDA approved raw materials.Fragrance free (and completely odourless)

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african skin

34

Among the main concerns of African skin are lack

of radiance, uneven skin tone, pigmentation,

blemishes and dark circles under the eyes.

Zone Pigment Perfector, the new anti-

pigmentation treatment from RégimA, draws on

the individual strengths of multiple skin-lightening actives.

Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “This product combines Lumiskin,

the latest in proprietary skin-lightening actives, together with

Sophora root extract, the enhanced lightening action of black

tea extract and the latest in stabilised Vitamin C technology for

unparalleled skin-lightening power.

“Added to this, kiwi fruit extract has been found to be particularly

beneficial for under-eye dark circles. Because African skins are

more prone to keloid scarring, it is important that a product

For therapists performing treatments on African skin, there is a wide range of products for clients with darker skin types to choose from.

Treating DARKER HUES

35


african skin

R

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provides anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin

and collagen fibres. This product is safe even for the

upper and under eye area.”

Also from RégimA, Zone Scar Repair Forté is a

unique super-strength serum which is recommended

for prevention and treatment of keloid scarring, helping

active acne and improving acne scarring.

“Actives, at their maximum strength, accelerate the

healing process, ensuring more rapid scar maturation,

with balanced collagen synthesis, preventing ugly

hypertrophic and keloid scar

formation, achieving the very best,

most aesthetically pleasing end

result. This product further acts on

older hypertrophic and keloid scars

(ugly, raised scars), promoting

their maturation, helping flatten,

reducing pain and improving

function,” explains Faucitt.

RégimA’s in-salon treatment

– Zone Power Peel – combines

six powerful natural fruit acids

including peach, raspberry and

apple, which have a lightening

effect superior to hydroquinone

with 100% safety. With the addition

of healing plants, renowned for

essential anti-inflammatory and

antioxidant action, this peel offers

a therapeutic action.

RadiancePhytomer has developed the White Lumination

Brightening Radiance Treatment

to reveal the radiance of the

complexion and diminish dark

spots through its main active

ingredients of sea lily, dictyopteris

and Vitamin C. This treatment

targets uneven skin tone, dark spots

due to skin ageing, sun exposure

or hormonal imbalances, as well

as dull complexion. It reduces skin

pigmentation for a more translucent

and radiant skin.

The complete treatment

consists of a one-hour facial, which

includes a double exfoliation and a

plasticising mousse mask, followed

by a white lamination serum and

cream to effectively boost radiance

and target dark spots.

Eye focusPriori’s Coffeeberry Radiance Eye

Serum incorporates an all-natural

formula fortified with Coffeeberry R

36 african skin

extra and nature’s most potent antioxidants to

fight free radicals and the causes of skin ageing.

This lightweight serum is designed

specifically for the delicate eye area to help

to reduce the appearance of fine lines and

wrinkles. It reduces dark circles and puffiness

and has a tightening effect.

Homeopathic aromatherapyLilian Terry International’s Aftersun is not

only great for repairing sun-damaged skin

– addressing symptoms such as premature

ageing, excessive dryness and high sensitivity to

solar radiation – but is also specially formulated

to both treat and prevent hyperpigmentation.

Studies done in Kiev, Ukraine, also showed that

Aftersun stimulates a remarkable improvement

in metabolic, hormonal and defensive activities

of the skin when applied on a daily basis.

Elastoderma – another complex from Lilian

Terry International – contains homeopathic

remedies and essential oils that assist with

repairing damaged skin due to stretching,

scarring or keloids, which occurs a lot with

African skins. Elastoderma promotes collagen

production so it also works wonderfully

to combat the signs of ageing as

it tones up the skin and acts on

deeper wrinkles.

Aftersun and Elastoderma

are homeopathic aromatherapy

massage oils, containing carrier

and essential oils combined with

specific homeopathic remedies.

They are completely natural and

self-regulatory and don’t affect the

action of any medication the person

might be on.

Physician-strengthDermaFix MD Prescriptives

SkinLite physician-strength

formula visibly diminishes

hyperpigmentation and

evens out skin tone.

This targeted treatment

contains a unique triple-

action formula which

works by inhibiting the

tyrosinase activity and

having inhibitory effects

on melanogenesis. SkinLite can be used on all skin types and

ethnicities.

Also from DermaFix, MD Prescriptives Intensive Scar Repair is

a rich emollient combining three copper peptides with a series of

clinically proven active dermaceutical ingredients that boost your

natural production of both collagen and elastin. It is a soothing

healing formulation for optimised results after laser resurfacing,

dermabrasion, chemical peels and any advanced treatments.

Universal day creamLuminescence Cream from Anesi Beauté is a

corrective treatment cream that evens skin

tone, reduces the synthesis of melanin and

lightens pigmented areas, while leaving

the skin soft and moisturised.

“Many people are unaware of the sensitivity of African skins not only to the sun, but also to certain active ingredients and in-salon treatments. Therefore the therapist needs to be very cautious when it comes to treating darker skins, as they could worsen the condition or cause hyper- or hypo-pigmentation in certain cases.”Dr Robert Gobac



37 african skin

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Face-SoniXFacial & Body cleansing system

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Hydrate

Massage

Exfoliate

Cleanse

It can be used as a universal day cream together with

any of the Anesi Beauté serums, especially Aqua Vital

Serum.

luminosityPevonia’s lumblanc is an intensive solution for

hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This is a dynamic

complex of highly active whitening and lightening agents.

Fused together into a state-of-the-art microsphere, this

Pevonia-proprietory formula enters the skin effortlessly,

delivering the actives directly to the target areas.

In tests, the natural ingredients in lumablanc

yielded greater results than hydroquinone at

four weeks. Key ingredients are undaria licorice

and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. They

inhibit tyrosinase and prevent dopaguinone

oxidation, as well as fading brown patches.

This cream evens the tone and texture

of the skin, while illuminating the face and

preventing hyperpigmentation. In addition it

stimulates the skin regeneration and synthesis

of collagen.R


38 african skin

SensitivityAccording to Dr Robert Gobac

of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals,

many people are unaware of

the sensitivity of African skins

not only to the sun, but also to

certain active ingredients and in-

salon treatments.

“Therefore the therapist

needs to be very cautious when

it comes to treating darker

skins, as they could worsen the

condition or cause hyper- or

hypo-pigmentation in certain

cases,” says Dr Gobac.

He recommends Dr Gobac

Lighten, a new-generation

skin-lightening product,

developed to target unwanted

pigmentation. It contains a

botanical extract high in arbutin,

a known skin-lightening agent,

as well as botanical extracts of

lemon peel and tilia cordata,

better known as small-leaved

lime, which not only reduce

pigmentation but also have a strong

anti-inflammatory effect on the skin.

This treatment is highly effective

and safe to use in the long term, as

well as during pregnancy.

Dr Gobac Sunscreen SPF25

is a lightweight, non-toxic sun

protection cream that has been

scientifically formulated for safe use,

even on babies’ delicate skin. It does

not contain any of the toxic organic

chemicals that have been known to

cause irritation to the skin. Instead it

contains the latest ‘buzz’ ingredient

– Zinc Clear – along with a number of

potent agents to effectively destroy

and eliminate free radicals in the skin. Ingredients such as Vitamin C,

brown algae extract, and ozone protection substances, have also been

included to reduce oedema (swelling) induced by sun exposure. This

product protects against UVA and UVB at a critical wavelength of

370nm – a requirement set forth by The European Cosmetic Toiletry and

Perfumery Association (COLIPA).

‘Master ingredient’A new active ingredient, O.D.A.white, has been selected as the ‘master

ingredient’ in Ericson Laboratoire’s lightening treatment. Another

innovative active ingredient, Lumiskin, has been integrated in the company’s

cosmetic formulas. It is designed to slow down the melanogenesis process,

and, therefore, slow down pigmentation.

The experts at Ericson Laboratoire say that many cosmetic products

use a traditional method which works on the upper layers of the skin. They

continue: “The innovation of our Perfection-White Expertise Treatment lies

in the fact that we go back as far as possible in the biological pigmentation

chain by acting at two levels. Firstly, we modify the genetic action prior to the

pigmentation process, and, secondly, we re-route the cellular messengers

which produce pigments.”

CoverageThe Deep Brown Corrector from MUD (Make-Up Designory) is creamy

in texture and pigment-rich, designed to conceal and camouflage skin

imperfections.

This Corrector can be blended with MUD’s Cream Foundations for

flawless, full coverage. It is perfect for use on medium-dark to very dark skin

tones to even out unwanted dark areas.

39


african skin

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For minor correction, MUD advises mixing the

Corrector into the Cream Foundation before applying

onto the skin. In cases of darker pigmentation, the

Corrector should be applied directly to the discoloured

area prior to the foundation and blended well.

Aesthetic treatmentsComfort and confidence are two of the most important

principles with a light-based aesthetic treatment,

particularly in the treatment of darker skin types (type

IV to VI). Fortunately, advances in the past decade

have given rise to a range of devices that can be safely

used on African skin. Longer wavelength lasers, such

as the 810nm Diode and 1064nm Nd:YAG, fractional

lasers and radiofrequency devices have all been used

safely for pigmentary abnormalities, resurfacing and

skin tightening in African skin, as well as hair removal.

Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers points out that only

two light-based technologies for hair reduction in

darker skin types are FDA-approved: the long-pulsed

Diode (810nm) and Nd:YAG (1064nm) lasers.

“These two types of lasers have longer wavelengths

and extended pulse durations and when combined

with active epidermal cooling, these lasers provide the

greatest efficacy with the lowest side-effect profile in

treating skin phototypes IV to VI,” she says.

Hitech Lasers has two Diode lasers – the LightSheer

Desire and LightSheer Duet, as well as the LightSheer

Infinity, a dual wavelength laser which combines the

two safe technologies (diode and Nd:YAG) in one

system. All three hair removal lasers are manufactured

by Lumenis and are clinically tested for safety, efficacy

and comfort in the removal of hair in dark skin types.

LightSheer Desire is a table top 805nm Diode Laser

for permanent hair reduction.

According to Dr Elliot Battle, an Afro-American

Dermatologist, the Nd:YAG, which emits a wavelength

of 1064nm, has been proven to be the safest to treat

the darkest skin types. This type of laser is able to

travel deep below the skin’s surface to reach the

melanin in the hair follicle without damaging the skin’s

superficial layer. The Nd:YAG is considered by many in

the industry to be the gold standard for performing

laser hair removal on Fitzpatrick skin types V–VI. PB

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41 treatment review – body contouring

I’d heard of Juliette Armand as

being a premium skincare brand,

and was interested to test the

effectiveness of their body-

contouring range.

My Elements Triple Action

treatment was performed by Meghan

Less, training manager at Poise

Brands, the exclusive distributor for

Juliette Armand in South Africa.

“As its name suggests, this is a triple

action body treatment for slimming,

cellulite prevention and firming,” said

Less. “It helps to increase circulation

and encourage lipolysis, a fat-

burning process, thereby

allowing the skin to regain its

normal shape and elasticity.”

The first stage of the

treatment was the detoxifying

peel, containing both

glycolic and lactic acids. Less

applied the Juliette Armand

Detoxifying Peeling Gel, while

explaining that this would remove

dead skin cells to ensure maximum

efficacy of the treatment to follow. The

peel was left on for four minutes and

my legs began to feel warm.

“You’re experiencing what is known

as hyperaemia – increased blood flow

to the treated area,” noted Less.

Next, without removing the peel,

Less applied Celluslim Slim onto my

thighs, with a massaging action.

She then mixed some Thermoslim

Gel together with the Celluslim Mud

Mask, which comprises mud from the

Dead Sea, as well as seaweed. This

was applied to my thighs. Following

application, each thigh was wrapped

in nylon and my lower half covered

One, two, three – go!Yolanda Knott opts for the Juliette Armand Elements Triple Action Therapy body contouring treatment to rid her thighs of that stubborn cellulite that even the most rigorous exercise won’t budge.

with a warming

blanket.

“This treatment is a

vasodilator – the combination

of heat and mud helps to get rid of

cellulite,” commented Less.

Fifteen minutes later, Less removed

the mask with tepid water and applied

the 10% Caffeine & Artichoke Serum.

Artichoke increases fat burning,

while caffeine is an effective delivery

mechanism. Less massaged my thighs

with a ‘rolling’ motion. As she rolled

I could actually feel the positive

effect on my cellulite. This serum is

compatible with aesthetic devices

such as ionizers, ultrasound and radio-

frequency.

The treatment concluded with the

application

of the Triple

Action Gel.

Less warned

me that my

legs would

be red for about 20 minutes after the

treatment, which turned out to be the

case.

As I got dressed I could definitely

see a difference in the texture of the

skin – it was much smoother, almost

as if Less had ironed out the bumps.

Overall the treatment is a pleasant

experience – there is no scrubbing and

no burning sensation. A course of 12

treatments is recommended.

For home care I bought the

Celluslim Serum, the 10% Caffeine and

Artichoke Serum and the Triple Action

Gel. PB

“Thistreatment

is a vasodilator – the combination of heat and mud helps

to get rid of cellulite.”Meghan Less

Contact: Poise Brands 011 033 0500


treatment review – body contouring

42

I’d recently experienced some

weight gain due to a hormonal

imbalance, and was keen to have

a body-contouring treatment to

firm up.

My treatment took place at the

Johannesburg offices of Anesi’s South

African distributor, Exclusive Beauty

Solutions (EBS).

Anesi brand and education

ambassador Yolandi Mestre told me

that Anesi’s well-known body range,

Parafango, has been around for a long

time, and is a combination of Dead Sea

mud and warm paraffin.

“Anesi recently launched its

new body treatment – the Haute

Performance Cellulite Rebelle

Treatment – in Europe. We’ve now

tried and tested the treatment and are

happy to bring it into South Africa,”

explained Mestre.

This thermal body-contouring

treatment was specially formulated to

reduce stubborn cellulite. It is a three-

stage treatment comprising a body

exfoliation, the application of a powerful

ampoule with active ingredients in roll-

on form, and a finishing cream.

Melinda Alevras ‘feels the heat’, so to speak, while experiencing the Anesi Haute Performance Cellulite Rebelle Treatment.

The power of the ampoule

Mestre applied the Cremfoliant

to my lower body; this is a dry body

exfoliator made up of peach grains

which eliminate dead skin cells.

Cremfoliant also contains Vitamin C

as well as folic acid for its anti-oxidant

properties. This exfoliant needs no

rinsing and smoothes the skin to allow

for deep penetration of the ampoule.

Said Mestre: “I’m now going to apply

the Concentre Chauffant Cellulite

Rebelle ampoule. This has a thermal

effect so the treated area will feel

hot. The three active ingredients are

Sensihot, which activates circulation,

while Regu-shape diminishes fat

accumulation and stimulates lipid

destriction. Regu-slim dramatically

reduces fat tissue.”

Mestre applied the roll-on ampoule

over the area and then wrapped it in

Anesi’s Osmotic Film and covered me

with a blanket. This was left on for 20

minutes and I could definitely feel a

growing sensation of heat.

In the meantime Mestre talked

about pricing. “Body treatments

are generally expensive, so if you

can come in with a cost-effective

treatment then you will capture the

main market share. The cost per

treatment to the salon is very low, so

salon-owners should be able to come

up with a really attractive price for

the client. Salons can combine this

treatment with Parafango for quicker

results.”

To finish off the treatment

Mestre applied the Crème Objectif

Minceur, a thermal active cream,

and performed a lymph drainage

massage. This product contains

guarana, caffeine, L-Carnitine and

retinol chromospheres.

For home care Mestre

recommended daily use of this

product as well as Crème Objectif

Fermeté to firm up the skin.

I could definitely see a difference

in skin tone after just one treatment

and was keen to embark on a course

of treatments. PB

Contact: Anesi 011 791 4027

GOAL:The perfect body

Remodels,reduces and toneseffectively.

Exclusive Beauty SolutionsTel: +27 86 112 6374or +27 11 791 [email protected]

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When I arrived at

Radiant Healthcare,

a Syneron

distributor in

Randpark Ridge, I

asked clinical trainer Danelle Landman

about the main differences between

the VelaShape II and the VelaShape III.

“Basically the VelaShape III has

a sophisticated closed-loop RF

(radiofrequency) feedback mechanism

and a built-in temperature sensor for

a precise treatment with increased

patient comfort and safety. The higher

RF power output will ensure that the

client requires fewer sessions.”

Like its predecessor, the VelaShape

III is powered by Syneron’s elos

technology and combines IR

(infrared), bi-polar RF, pulsed vacuum

and mechanical rollers. The device

heats the tissue up to a depth of

between 3mm and 15mm.

Landman explained: “It is the

combination of these technologies

that causes deep heating of the fat

cells (adipocytes), their surrounding

connective fibrous septae and the

underlying dermal collagen fibres.

“The optimal design of the

electrodes and the concurrent

application of vacuum allows for

deeper and faster heat penetration.

In turn, this promotes an increase

in circulation, lymphatic drainage,

cellular metabolism and collagen

depositing. It also stimulates fibroblast

activity and remodels the extracellular

matrix.”

All primed to ‘shape’ upHaving experienced the Syneron VelaShape II body contouring treatment exactly a year ago, Joanna Sterkowicz was keen to discover the technological advancements of its successor, the VelaShape III.

Landman commenced the

treatment on the back of my cellulite-

ridden thighs, using the VelaShape

III’s cellulite applicator. I was delighted

to discover that the vacuum and the

roller action was a lot more gentle

than the VelaShape II, where I actually

had to ask the operator to reduce the

intensity of the treatment, due to my

low level of tolerance. Conversely,

during the VelaShape III treatment, I

nearly dozed off.

Landman commented: “The

treatment protocol with the new

machine is completely different to

the VelaShape II, in that we perform

vertical and horizontal ‘stacking’ for

body contouring, to prevent the heat

from building up too quickly in one

spot, as well as a different ‘gliding

technique’ on cellulite. ”

The recommended duration of

treatment for each anatomical area

is 15 minutes.

Contraindications are varicose

veins, pregnancy and lactation,

pace-makers, diabetes, epilepsy,

thrombosis and open cuts.

Unique to the Velashape III (and

the industry) is the ‘Vela-Once’

treatment. This is a totally new

treatment for body contouring

and circumference reduction, and

requires only one ‘long’ single

treatment with very effective results.

The VelaShape III won the

trophy for the best Non-Invasive

Body Shaping Device at the 2013

Anti-Ageing Medicine European

Congress in Paris. PB

Contact: Radiant Healthcare 011 794-8252/3



Following a food-

filled Christmas

holiday I was

looking to reduce

the circumference

of my abdomen and thighs.

Best Lasers, the South African

distributor of the Accent Ultra

V selective lipolysis and body

contouring work station, arranged

for my treatment at the Kloof

Laser Clinic in Brooklyn, Pretoria.

Therapist Beauty Dlamini

explained that this would be a

three-part treatment, combining

the Accent Ultra’s V’s ultrasound

technology, which uses Shear

waves to break down the fat

cells, together with its UniForm

module. This targets cellulite with

a combination of Alma Lasers’ RF

UniPolar technology, in parallel with

a mechanical lymphatic drainage

technology.

“In addition, Best Lasers always

advises us to end this treatment

with a session of BiPolar RF for

skin-tightening,” said Dlamini.

She commenced the treatment

by rubbing Vaseline on the left

side of my abdomen and my left

thigh as a conductive medium in

preparation for the Accent Ultra

V’s Ultra module, for the ultrasound

phase of the treatment.

Dlamini continued: “The

ultrasound is made up of a ‘cold

mode,’ which targets the fat cells,

while the ‘hot mode’ compression

Ultrasound and RF to the foreBelinda Wewege experiences a non-invasive, pain-free body-contouring treatment courtesy of Alma Lasers’ latest device, the Accent Ultra V.

waves thermally enhance the

process. These two modes

help to destroy fat cells.

“With the Accent Ultra V

you only work on the areas of

the body with fatty pockets.

The machine is capable of

going up to 300 watts, while most

other machines on the market only go

up to between 50 and 70 watts.”

The ultrasound felt so smooth

and relaxing that I almost fell asleep

during the treatment.

Dlamini then applied some almond

seed oil onto the treatment area

before applying the UniForm hand

piece. As this is RF technology it

does feel hot on the skin, but the

heat is quite bearable and in no way

uncomfortable. The UniForm works on

the dermis of the skin and penetrates

to a depth of 20mm to reach the

subcutaneous fat layer.

Once this was completed, Dlamini

used the BiPolar RF hand piece, which

penetrates to a depth of 6mm to

work on the epidermis.

Throughout the RF treatment

Dlamini used a thermometer to

monitor my skin’s temperature

to make sure that it remained

between 38 and 44 degrees

centigrade.

When Dlamini finished the left

side of my body she requested

that I go to a mirror to see how my left

side compared to my right side. To my

delight there was a marked difference

– the treated side definitely looked

tighter and lifted, prompting me to

immediately book for a course of six

treatments.

Once she had completed the

treatment on my right side, Dlamini

emphasised that I should drink lots

of water and go for a brisk walk to

continue the process of lymphatic

drainage. PB

Contact: Best Lasers 012 998 9844



Prior to undergoing the

Sculpt Zone treatment,

which took place at the

newly opened Urban

Bliss Spa in Emmarentia,

Johannesburg, all I knew about

Phytomer was that is a premium

French marine brand.

On arrival, spa manager Lerato

Tlhame noted that Sculpt Zone is a

100% natural treatment incorporating

biotechnology.

“This is an intensive and localised

treatment for the abdomen, buttocks

and thighs that targets excess fat and

cellulite.

“Ideally we suggest a course of

four treatments over two weeks,

but if the client is short of time

they can opt for a one-week course

comprising two treatments. Clinical

test results show that you can lose

at least 1cm waist circumference with

Sculpt Zone,” explained Tlhame.

She then commenced the

treatment with a short relaxation

exercise, which involved taking

deep breaths and inhaling Oligomer

essence. Containing 104 trace

Contouring, the marine wayHeleen Wiese takes aim at her problem areas by experiencing Phytomer’s Sculpt Zone body contouring treatment.

elements, Oligomer is Phytomer’s

flagship marine ingredient and helps

to relax and feed the body.

For the exfoliation phase of the

treatment, Tlhame used the Phytomer

Toning Body Scrub, which also

contains Oligomer as well as marine

salt crystals. Lying on my side, Tlhame

started the exfoliation process on the

back of my abdomen before doing

the backs of the thighs and buttocks,

followed by the stomach and front

of thighs. The scrub felt nice and

warm and was removed with a damp

compress.

To mix the mud for the Thermo-

Sculpting Body Wrap, Tlhame mixed

400gm of powder to 300gm of

lukewarm water.

“The star ingredient of the mud is

Pepper Slimactiv,” continued Tlhame,

“which is derived from the pepper-

seed oil plant in South America.

It targets fat cells and inhibits the

genes that cause fat, thus stimulating

lipolysis. A big advantage of this wrap

for spas and salons is that it does not

clog the drains or stain towels.”

Tlhame applied the mud with

massaging movements. I could feel

the heat of the mud and actually

heard it bubbling and popping on

my skin. Once it was applied I was

wrapped in Phytomer’s Micron Foil

to increase the heat. The mud was

left on for 20 minutes, during which

time Tlhame performed a scalp

massage.

After the mud had been rinsed

off, Tlhame applied the Contouring

Massage Concentrate. She did this

with very strong and deep massage

movements which she referred to as

‘kneading, cupping and hacking’, to

encourage lymphatic drainage.

The final stage of the treatment

was the application of Celluli Attack,

to continue the lipolysis process.

At the end of the treatment,

what I refer to as ‘the hail effect’ (ie.

cellulite dimples) on my buttocks

and thighs had definitely diminished,

and my skin looked a lot firmer. PB

Contact: A&I Importers 011 486 4904

Johannesburg * Durban * Cape Town * Bloemfontein * Nelspruit * Port Elizabeth011 888 9044 * 031312 4962 * 021 522 6999 * 051 451 9071 * 013 741 2553 * 041 581 8106

Thank you for voting us as best supplier - Again!

FACE & BODYInnovative biotech ingredients combined with exceptionalmanual techniques for instant visible youth results.

WELLBEINGDeeply holistic, PHYTOMER protocols offer comprehensiveand relaxing care through a range of sublime signaturetreatments.

SUPPORTPHYTOMER offers partnership in the truest sense of theword: therapist training, marketing and promotionsalongside incomparable customer service all helping to meetthe needs of your business.

MORE EFFECTIVE MORE SENSORIAL MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY ENGAGED

A&I Importers - 0114864904 - [email protected] - www.ai-importers.co.za - www.phytomer.com

THE NEW FRONTIER OF SKIN CARE

PHYTOMER PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GB SIMPLE 12 2014_emotion spa 19/12/2014 10:59 Page1

TREATMENT CHALLENGES OVERCOME

Exilis wAs voTEd ThE BEsT skiN TighTENiNg PRoducT iN ThE usA.

fACiAL REjuVENAtiON

Before After two treatments

BTL-Vanquish+Elite_advertisement_A4_SA_v2.indd 1 3.3.2014 14:44:52


51

Fractious flare-upsThe term eczema encompasses a group of medical conditions that cause the skin to become inflamed or irritated. This troublesome and unsightly disorder requires special care.

To the max Epi-max is a highly effective, carefully formulated emollient cream.

Because it is not an aqueous cream, Epi-max locks moisture in the skin

and prevents it from evaporating. Tested by dermatologists, Epi-Max is

hypo-allergenic, perfume-free and not tested on animals.

011 545 9300

Dramatic creamRégimA’s Ultralite

Therapeutic Massage has

been seen clinically to have

a dramatic effect on eczema.

It combines the highly

moisturising ingredients

of phospholipids, jojoba,

marigold and sorbitan,

which have antiseptic, anti-

bacterial, anti-inflammatory

and anti-irritant properties.

011 615 2869

Rich formulaWith its rich hydrating

blend of natural waxes

and glycerol, DermaFix

Moisturiser Rx will enhance

the principal lipids in

the stratum corneum –

ceramides, cholesterol,

and free fatty acids. The

moisturiser’s occlusive

ingredients have been shown

to reduce water loss by 98%.

0861 28 23 23

product focus – eczema


52 product focus – eczema

Vitamin powerJuliette Armand’s Multi-B Vitamins

Serum contains Vitamins B5 and B6

for a powerful anti-inflammatory and

anti-irritant action. The B5 Vitamin

increases skin hydration by preventing

intradermal moisture loss. It accelerates

the healing of injuries and reduces skin

irritations and erythema.

011 033 0500

Specific rangePevonia’s RS2 range was specially

developed to treat eczema. The

range comprises a cleanser, lotion,

concentrate and cream. Ingredients

include green tea, which helps the

healing process, while French rose,

chamomile and liquorice extract

calm redness, desensitise and have a

vaso-constricting and cooling effect.

011 238 7080

Soothe awayDoctor Babor Neuro Sensitive

Cellular has an anti-irritant

effect, soothes itching and

feelings of tightness, while

restoring the hydrolipid mantle

that protects the skin. It does

not contain any ingredients

that could upset the skin’s

balance and it can even be used

during symptom-free periods

in the case of neurodermatitis,

psoriasis or eczema.

011 467 0110

53 product focus – eczema

Active cocktailDr Gobac Starter

Cream has shown an

improvement on skin

suffering from eczema

due to its cocktail of

active ingredients that

work synergistically

to nurture and protect

the skin. At the same

time the cocktail

stimulates the skin’s own

rejuvenation and repair

mechanisms.

011 314 9222


Clear awayAtopiclair is a new step in the management

of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis that

reduces the need for steroids. It has the anti-

inflammatory properties of glycyrrhetinic acid,

derived from liquorice root and provides calming

effects on the skin comparable to a cortico

steroid, without the side effects.

011 545 9300

The proof is in the pudding. Don’t just take our word for it, request your FREE eyeSlices® sample today!

eye opening results!

Photographs with compliments of

Waste Away Salon

AFTER

AFTER

BEFORE

BEFORE

After 1 use of 5 minutes


You and eyeSlices® – Doing life together www.eyeslices.com

A hydration metre measuring the before and after hydration levels in the skin post the use of eyeSlices®, shows an average increase of:

25% - 50% instant hydration to the skin within 5 minutes of use.


55 micro needling

Micro needling is built on

exactly the same concept of

using your body and skin’s

own intrinsic way of healing

itself to treat myriad skin

conditions and needs.

So says Gunther Dippenaar, managing

director and senior aesthetic therapist of

Sprout Medical Aesthetics. “The reason

I like to recommend micro needling to

clients is because it is a viable alternative

to plastic surgery. When combined with

other therapies, such as laser skin renewal,

or resurfacing, it can yield similar results,

without being as invasive, costly and time-

consuming as surgery.”

He points out that the micro needling

device, which consists of a number of tiny

needles, is gently worked along the surface

of the skin. “This creates a controlled

injury, which is caused at a micro level

and stimulates the skin’s inherent healing

processes. The skin realises that the old

and damaged cells cannot be repaired,

so it responds by releasing an enzyme to

remove the old and damaged cells, which

are now replaced with new collagen, elastin

and skin cells.

“The most dramatic results occur

between three and six months. Clients

are often amazed at the results they can

see from their fourth session,” explains

Dippenaar.

SafetyLate last year the DermaFix team attended

Dr Lance Setterfield’s dermal needling

workshop in order to measure the

methodology used.

Says DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt: “The

collagen induction produced by dermal

needling is now recognised as far superior

to most modalities offered in-clinic.”

The DermaFix options include the MT Microneedling

Needle Roller – a durable, high-quality precision tool,

the MT Microneedling Dermal Stamp and classic tattoo

devices for specialist procedures.

Hunt continues: “Safe practice is being aware of the

importance of blood-borne pathogens and adhering

to infection control precautions for minimising the

risk of exposure to blood or body fluids. It is vital to

reduce the risk of transmission of infection and disease

from client to client, therapist to client, and client to

therapist.

NeedlepointAn acknowledged skin rejuvenation technique, micro needling can treat a variety of conditions, including hyperpigmentation, scarring, broken capillaries and enlarged pores, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

Pic

: Env

iro

n

The proof is in the pudding. Don’t just take our word for it, request your FREE eyeSlices® sample today!

eye opening results!

Photographs with compliments of

Waste Away Salon

AFTER

AFTER

BEFORE

BEFORE



You and eyeSlices® – Doing life together www.eyeslices.com

A hydration metre measuring the before and after hydration levels in the skin post the use of eyeSlices®, shows an average increase of:

25% - 50% instant hydration to the skin within 5 minutes of use.

R


56 micro needling

“Purchasing micro needling devices

from reputable companies is advised, as,

through the Consumer Protection and

Vicarious Liability Acts, the consumer

has the power to enforce their rights in

cases of negligence.”

dermapenThe advanced skin-needling technology

of the Dermapen uses multiple needles

that vertically pierce the skin with an

automated vibrating function.

Says Genop Healthcare product

manager Glynis Watkins: “When moved

across the skin’s surface it stimulates

natural collagen reproduction, while

allowing fine channels to be created in

the skin. These can carry up to 80% more

topical nutrients, allowing for treatment

delivery deep into the skin’s fibroblasts

to feed the underlying cells in the

dermis and basal layer. This increased

absorption of active ingredients into the

skin creates stimulated repair and faster

resurfacing results.”

She notes that advanced skin-

needling promotes scar-less healing

and the deposition of normal woven

collagen, similar to fractional laser

treatments but without the side effects

and downtime.

“The Dermapen causes minimal

epidermal (skin) damage, therefore

reducing pain and discomfort, and

making it a safe and highly effective

treatment. It is even suitable for delicate

and hard-to-reach areas, such as around

the eyes, lips and nose,” concludes

Watkins.

RollersAccording to Yolandi Mestre of Exclusive

Beauty Solutions, distributor of Anesi

rollers, clinical studies have proven that

serum absorption is increased by as

much as 3000 times when applied with

a roller.

“They accomplish

the same or better

results as other

ablative treatments

by increasing the

production of collagen

with minimal damage

to the protective layer

of the skin. Rollers

are affordable and

safe, with very little

pain or discomfort,

downtime and risk

of complications,”

explains Mestre.

Not all skincare

ranges are suitable to combine with

micro-needling. Following intensive

research, Anesi has developed a set

of protocols adapted to combine

treatment with micro-needling.

Suitable Anesi treatments

are: Aqua Vital (hydration), Age

Rebellion (anti-ageing), DNA (anti-

ageing), Stem C3 (sun damage and

luminosity), Celestial Secret (Anti-

ageing with meteorite extract)

and Expression Ritual (eye and lip

treatment).

PioneerKnown as a global guru of non-

invasive skin needling, Environ

founder Dr Des Fernandes has

almost 20 years of experience in

the field. Today Environ has three

different types of needling: cosmetic

(needle length = 0.1mm), medical

(1mm – 1.5mm) and surgical (3mm).

Cosmetic needling is designed to

use daily, as part of a professionally

recommended home regime to aid

the absorption of Environ’s topically

applied, vitamin-enriched skincare

products.

Medical and surgical needling

is performed by trained skincare

professionals who work under the

supervision of a medical doctor in a

special environment. The client’s skin

needs to be prepared on Vitamins

A, C and E for at least three weeks

beforehand.

ProtocolJanine Thomson of The Skin & Body

Clinic, who runs a micro needling

course called Creating Healthy Skin,

notes that micro-needling can achieve

optimal results safely on all Fitzpatrick

Skin Types I to VI without the costs

and side effects of some ablative

modalities on the market.

Says Thomson: “Needling leads to

regenerative healing, as opposed to

cicatricial healing, as with most other

treatment modalities.

“The key to success is knowing

what you want to achieve and how

you will obtain these results. This

includes effective pre- and post-

treatments relative to the condition

you are treating. During the healing

cascade, collagenase peaks at

approximately day 14. Knowing at

what intervals to combine needling

with other modalities, like laser, IPL,

chemical peels, facials that address

corneotherapy etc, really is the trick of

the trade for optimal results.” PB

“The reason I like to recommend micro needling to clients is because it is a viable alternative to plastic surgery. When combined with other therapies, such as laser skin renewal, or resurfacing, it can yield similar results, without being as invasive, costly and time-consuming as surgery.”Gunther Dippenaar

Pic: Dermafix

Pic: Anesi

0.2mm 0.5mm

Scars a

nd S

tretc

h Marks

advanced pro

duct

penetration

1mm

Collagen

Indu

ction

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Stockist Enquiries: 0861 28 23 23www.dermafi x.co.za


58 hair news

Crowning gloryTress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Jonathan Lieman (Marica Salon Specialists) with Nutree Professional’s Renato Antunes and Brazilian celebrity hairdresser, Sergio Eloy

The Amazon Liss Anti-Frizz Treatment

System from Brazilian company Nutree

Professional regenerates the hair fibre

due to the hydrolysed keratin and

antioxidant properties of acai and

cocoa. These penetrate the cuticle,

rebuilding its structure, hydrating and

restoring damaged hair.

011 608-3153/54

Scalp sense

Honeyed hair

Fighting the frizz

Andjo Silicone Serum is a unique blend

of silicones that boosts the natural

shine of hair and hair extensions

without weighing hair down. Ideal for

daily use on human hair, Remy, Brazilian

hair weaves, wigs or extensions, either

on wet or dry hair, its lightweight

formula gives hair an oil-free, silky-sleek

finish.

011 326 3813

From Toni&Guy comes

the label.m Honey & Oat

Shampoo, which delivers

effective conditioning without

heaviness. It contains honey,

oat extracts, sea algae and

sea cabbage to remoisturise

the hair. Label.m’s exclusive

Enviroshield Complex actively

protects hair against heat

styling and UV rays.

021 448 8740

Scalp Magic Kit is a comprehensive

professional treatment kit that addresses

dry, itchy, flaky and dandruff prone scalp.

It sheds away old layers and removes

impurities from the hair follicles and

scalp. The unique formula is full of

antioxidant-rich argan oil, black castor oil

and essential oils of lavender, tea tree and

peppermint.

072 710 5279

Smart silicones

Smart silicones

Retreat to the peaceful harmony of nature.

Serene. Reflective. Lighthearted.

NEW Shades!

CND™ SHELLAC™

Brand 14+ Day Nail Color

VINYLUX™

Weekly Polish

CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc.©2014 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

Retreat to the peaceful harmony of nature.

Serene. Reflective. Lighthearted.

NEW Shades!

CND™ SHELLAC™

Brand 14+ Day Nail Color

VINYLUX™

Weekly Polish

CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc.©2014 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

Tel: +27 86 112 6374or +27 11 791 [email protected]

AUTHORIZEDDISTRIBUTOR


60 nails

Thanks to technological

advances, nail stylists

have a vast selection

of nail art materials,

techniques and methods

to choose from, offering you the

opportunity to experiment, explore your

artistic freedom and create designs that

will set your nail art services apart from

the rest.

It’s not just about creating way out,

wild designs that are sure to attract

attention; designs can also be subtle

and classy. In fact, they can be whatever

you want them to be. Nails have become

an important fashion accessory and

the perfect canvas to translate fashion

into fine works of art, dressing them in

the latest trends to complement and

enhance a particular style.

If you don’t think that you have the

creative flare or talent for nail art, why

not just give it a try and start with some

very basic techniques, slowly inventing

and creating new looks and intricate

effects as you become accustomed

to the different techniques. Once you

have put your skills to the test and feel

comfortable with your abilities, move on

to more advanced techniques and you

will be amazed at what you can achieve.

Basic designs can be created with

nail enamel, using two or even three

different shades to create a colour block

effect and dividing them with silver or

gold striping tape. Rhinestones, pearls

and studs can also be used to create

even simpler designs that don’t really

require much artistic skill but are great

for adding a little glitz and glamour

to your client’s nails. These can be

secured in the nail enamel or even

set inside acrylic or gel.

Many distributors of nail art

products offer nail art courses

that can assist you to get started

and learn the basics. There are

also plenty of step-by-step video

tutorials on the internet and

magazines, which provide you with

in-depth guides to nail art and how

to achieve a particular design and

look.

latest trends Each new year is accompanied by

new nail trends, colours, textures,

shapes and styles. While some

styles are forgotten, others are

taken to new levels. The inspiration

behind many of these designs

comes from the latest fashions

seen on the catwalks, which is why

it is so important for nail salons

and technicians to keep up to date

with the latest trends, which are

being demanded by women and

sometimes men.

Let’s look at some of the latest

trends and nail art designs that

have been spotted on the runways

for this year. Nail art seems to have

shifted into a different direction,

taking on a more sophisticated

look, from subtle barely there

designs – like the side swipes seen

at Prabal Gurung, with fine lines

lightly feathered across a nude

With fashion setting the latest trends for nails, from colour to shape and design, nail art is like haute couture for your nails, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

Fashion at yourfingertips

All pics courtesy CND Look Book


nails

61

nail – to more bright and bold, but

beautiful, flower power designs,

which models wore at Desigual.

A very popular look for

the season is the half-finished

manicure, which looks something

like distressed wood. A look that is

definitely not so cool is having half-

finished nail art on your nails when

you are meant to be one of the

sexiest men on the planet. Brad Pitt

was spotted recently with a strange

zigzag pattern on a few of his nails,

while handing over an award at the

Palm Springs International Film

Festival.

Each new year is accompanied by new nail trends, colours, textures, shapes and styles. While some styles are forgotten, others are

taken to new levels. R


nails

62

Where fashion meets art Jan Arnold, co-founder and style

director for CND, is well known for

her collaboration with designers

when it comes to styling nails for top

international fashion shows, heading up

an elite team of ‘artisans’. Arnold states

that new technology and elevated

thinking has taken ordinary nail art to

fine art. She maintains that nail art has

a connotation of humour and frivolity,

but that the new standard is precious,

calculated and architecturally refined.

In London, Arnold and her team

worked with award-winning designer

Michael van der Ham, whose fabric

is a study in couturier creativity and

old world craftsmanship. Van der Ham

understood the need for ‘painterly’

nails to enhance the effect of intricate

weaves of breathtakingly beautiful

patterns cut into day dresses. In New

York there was a collection of both

theatrical and wearable avant garde

designs, with futuristic references and

nails as precious jewels from another

universe.

TechniquesSome of the techniques in use have been

around for many years and are very

effective in creating beautiful works

of art. Nail art designs can be created

with the most unexpected of materials,

incorporating items with one another

like buttons, studs, and tape. Different

coloured nail enamels, acrylic paints,

glitters, rhinestones, coloured polymer

powders and gels can all contribute to

create amazing designs.

• Polishes – nail polish is one of the

most commonly used products with nail art

stylists, who have found so many ways to

create wonderful designs and effects.

• Timeless classic – the French manicure is

still one of the most classic and requested

services within manicures, pedicures

and nail enhancements. This look is

not just about using the classic white

and pink or beige colours; it can also

offer variations in shape and colour.

A look that presents itself on the

runways year in and year out in a

variety of colour combinations, and

which was perfectly showcased

at Sophie Thealett, is a two-

toned pastel French mani, which

complemented the classic flowing

pieces. Then there were the

gorgeous geometric diamond

designs in crisp white shown at

Azede Jean-Pierre.

• Marbling – a very effective

technique done with nail

enamel and a marbling tool

was worn by models at the

Degen show. Two or more

colours are applied to the nail

and gently swirled around and

mixed into one another to create

a beautiful unique marbled

effect. The design is never the

The first step is to get to know your client, their likes and dislikes, favourite colours, hobbies and career. Nail art should suit your client’s personality, style and fashion preference. These elements can be pulled together to create a custom design for a client. For those who are a little reluctant, introduce them to the idea of nail art gradually or else they could just end up feeling uncomfortable

wearing it and may never want to try it again. Let your clients be a part of discovering a

whole new dimension in nail art. Use their ideas

as inspiration for your creations. The internet

is also a great place to do some research, see

what’s trending and what top nail stylists are

up to. Create a portfolio of your work with

photographs or on actual nail tips, which can

be showcased in a box frame and shown to

your clients.

It can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to get your clients to take the plunge and wear nail art. How do you address this?

Turning clients onto nail art

Nail art designs can be created with the most unexpected of materials, incorporating items

with one another like buttons, studs, and tape. Different coloured nail enamels, acrylic paints,

glitters, rhinestones, coloured polymer powders and gels can all contribute

to create amazing designs.

63


nails

Leading Nail Care

same and can range from covering the entire nail to

only parts of it.

• Sponging– this technique can be applied with nail

enamels or acrylic paint. A base colour is applied to

the nail and then a second, or even third, colour is

sponged lightly over the surface to create a sponge

effect. This is very effective, especially when using

metallic colours.

• One stroke – water based acrylic paints can be

used to create elaborate hand painted designs.

The designs can be as simple as a few flowers or as

detailed as a landscape. For some extra sparkle, add

some glitter dust, foil or even bits of fabric and lace.

This technique is great for creating a layered effect

that can bring a design to life.

• 3D – creating nail art with enhancement products

such as liquid and powders, gels and even silk,

allows the nail stylist the opportunity to really

unleash their artistic flair and experiment on more

adventurous clients. Designs can range from very

basic to outrageous, some of which are definitely not

wearable and created specifically for photo shoots,

competitions or shows. These same designs can be

scaled down, making it possible to create the same

3D look that is wearable. The techniques are very

skilful, need a lot of time and patience, and must be

performed by a very experienced nail stylist. Additives

are still ever popular and a great way to bring colour

to your clients. CND offers an eye-opening collection

of pure pigments and lustrous effects, the additives

can be blended into sculpting powder or gel. This

breed of nail artistry brings together an array of

cosmetic grade pure pigments and effects for nails

in versatile dramatic colours, along with couture

effects.

There are many more amazing and exciting techniques

that can be explored and tried. With products and

techniques having evolved tremendously over the

years, there are no limitations to what you can

achieve, there is something to suit everyone’s

taste.

So why not move away from applying the

same old single shades on your client’s nails that

they so love to wear week in and week out, and try

something a little different for a change. If you have

never tried a little nail art and put your creativity to the

test, now is your opportunity to add a new dimension to

your nail business. PB

Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: [email protected] or tel: 076 585 4191

64 product news

In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products, innovations and devices.

Gentle cleanserDMK’s Milky Clean &

Pure is a milk-based

cleanser recommended

for reactive skin types.

It cleanses the skin

without the need for

harsh abrasive granules

and scrubbing, and

is ideal for delicate

skins. Milky Clean

& Pure is lauryl-,

laureth sulphate-,

artificial colorant- and

paraben-free.

011 262 6120

Primed and readyMUD Primer is the solution to

preparing the skin for make-up

application and lastability. This

silicon-based face primer was

designed to be used i n multiple

ways. You can prep the skin to

create a smooth surface or you

can mix it with MUD

foundations to create

a sheer coverage.

084 956 5285

New RF technologyThe Dermatrix device adopts non-invasive

fractional RF (radiofrequency) technology

that delivers heat energy deep into the

subcutaneous layers to regenerate collagen,

restore skin firmness and improve skin texture,

producing the maximum dermal effects, while

minimising the damage to the epidermis.

011 794 8252/3

In full viewWith the Anesi SkinView

device the therapist can have

a complete diagnosis of the

client’s skin in less than 10

minutes, with pictures and

graphics to compare with

the average population of

women in that age range. It

recommends the best Anesi

treatments based on its

results.

011 791 4027

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65 product news

Biphasic deliveryThe Booster Elixir Serum range from Six was developed

to comprehensively treat the significant signs of skin

ageing. Its biphasic gel delivery system transports the

specially developed active ingredients to the parts of the

skin where they are needed most.

011 312 7840

Regenerating elixir Thalgo’s Prodige Des Océans is an elixir

comprising 61 regenerating nutrients. The

formulation includes 15 minerals, seven

vitamins, 14 fatty acids, three glucides,

21 amino acids and one phytonutrient. It

makes the skin regain its original vitality and

radiance.

011 880 3850 r


66 product news

Fantasy polishMorgan Taylor Professional Nail Lacquer has launched its

Enchantment Collection 2015 – a limited edition palette

of six majestic hues. Clients will be mesmerised by six

whimsical shades – Hocus Pocus, Who-Dini, I’m the Good

Witch, Magician’s Assistant, Now You See Me, and Simply

Spellbound.

011 447 0659

Stable retinolAppropriate for all skin

types, especially normal

to oily, Scinderm’s

Medical Retinol 20 Cream

is free of fragrances,

preservatives and

surfactants. Micro-

encapsulation significantly

enhances the stability of

retinol by isolating the

molecule in the core of

a microscopic acrylic

matrix, protecting it from

light and oxygen.

011 486 4542

Potent trioDermalogica has announced the

launch of the PowerBright TRx

system, consisting of three highly

active products that incorporate

the newest technology in skin

brightening. The range replaces

ChromaWhite TRx, and represents

a streamlined approach to treating

hyperpigmentation.

011 268 0018

Everlasting beautyThe Forever Beautiful range by Infinity Skincare includes

PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica, which encourages stem

cell protection and Perfection Peptide P3 to induce

biomimetic peeling. Ameliox combats wrinkles and

glycation, Lipobelle Soyaglycone is for lifting, with

Delentigo the age spot solution.

076 240 3719

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Included:

590nm 22cm² - Worlds largest hairremoval applicator for large areas

610nm 5cm² - Hair removal for allskin types

515nm 1cm² - photo rejuvenation,treats light vascular and lightpigmented lesions, telangiectasias, rosacea and spider veins

A special RF skin tightening applicator

Revolution in age-reversal usingnanocurrenttechnology

Re-energizes cells inthe face and body

The feeling of a VIP facial treatment

No needles, no pain, no chemicals

Immediate results and long lasting effects

Unique patent pending vacuum delivery system

Measures vacuum level to skin, 20 times a second and makes minoradjustments to protectthe skin from damage

On screen training videos & help

User adjustable vacuum and various sized real diamond tips for different treatment options

Large touch screen display

Easy to operate

Advanced cooling system

Easy maintenance

Applicator spot sizes from 1cm² to 22cm²

Also effective on lightcoloured hair

www.sonicmedical.co.za+27 82 905 3438

Launch price

R72,000.00

Includes:

Electric Sterilizer tank

Full set of Diamond heads

Launch price

R69,600.00

Launch price

R220,000.00

Optional Extras:Nd: YAG laser attachment for treating: pigmented skin, spider veins, fungal toe nails, stubborn hair and Tattoo removal. R46,000

Professional heavy duty stand on wheels specially designed for the zeolite. R4,500

IPL/RF Machine

To become a City & Guilds approved centre, contact us on

City & Guilds is proud to present the new beauty qualifications for South Africa, developed for

industry by industry.

To find out more about these qualifications, how to recognise prior learning and

become a City & Guilds Approved Centre, email [email protected]

or telephone 011 544 4660


68 medical aesthetics

68

Retinol is known for its

versatility and can be

used to address many

skincare concerns

i n c l u d i n g

photo-ageing, coarse

texture, enlarged pores and

acne scaring.

“Vitamin A is known as

the ‘normalising’ vitamin,”

says Sonette Donker from

Skin iD. “Any skin type or skin

condition can benefit from vitamin

A, it just depends on the product

formula and the form of vitamin A

used, ie. retinyl palmitate, retinol or

retinoic acid. Vitamin A is mostly used

to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and

ageing.”

Retinol is derived from the

compound retinoid, which is a

derivative of vitamin A, and it

has been used by doctors and

dermatologists for the last century,

both orally and topically, to treat a

broad spectrum of dermatological

conditions.

Donker continues; “Retinol is

the fat-soluble, or alcohol, form of

vitamin A and it can cause irritation

on some skins. Retinyl palmitate, on

the other hand, is the least aggressive

form of vitamin A, making it more

suitable for delicate, sensitive skins.

Retinol, however, stimulates collagen

synthesis within hours compared to

retinyl palmitate, which takes days to

do so.”

Ursula Hunt, the founder of

DermaFix, elaborates: “Retinyl

palmitate is an ester or chemical

compound formed from the reaction

of retinol and palmitic acid, and is

commonly used as an anti-oxidant in

cosmetic products.”

diverse moleculeRetinol is a very diverse and

dynamic molecule according to

the team at optiphi.

“When combined

with other active

ingredients, retinol can

be used to effectively

treat a number of

d e r m a t o l o g i c a l

conditions, such as

inflammatory skin

disorders, skin cancers

and photo-ageing.”

The optiphi team

says that the daily application of a

retinol product on a normal, healthy

skin will have a preventative action,

as it will boost the skin’s immunity by

ensuring the skin is always functioning

optimally.

Potential side effectsDonker says that retinol can cause

the skin to become dry with visible

redness. “This normally happens within

two weeks of use,” she continues. “The

best is to push past the two weeks, as

Results withretINolIf you are serious about delivering dramatic results in your skincare clinic or aesthetic practice, retinol is an ingredient that you cannot be without, writes Karen Ellithorne.


69 medical aesthetics

your skin will start to look

amazing. If the skin is very

sensitive it is recommended

to use retinyl palmitate.

Normally retinyl palmitate

is 100% safe to use on even

the most sensitive skins, as it has no

side effects.”

The optiphi team adds: “Retinol

exfoliates your skin from the inside

out, and, during the process, your

skin can become extra-sensitive. It’s

advisable to start with small amounts

of the product, while building up a

tolerance for the active ingredients.

We caution against using the retinol

directly on the eyelids, but encourage

very careful use under the eyes.”

Hunt suggests that clients stay out

of the sun and wear sunscreen (SPF45

or higher) together with protective

clothing. Retinol products should be

used exactly as prescribed on the

package label.

Lastly, Hunt advises using a

moisturiser along with the topical

application of retinol, to prevent the

skin from drying out.

Regenerating propertiesClaudeen Krause, the educator for

Mesoestetic in South Africa, says

that vitamin A is well known for its

regenerating properties. She refers

to studies done by Varini et.al,

2000, (The Society for Investigative

Dermatology) that have proven a

significant increase in fibroblasts

in the skin after topical retinol use

and a significant decrease in

collagenase, the enzyme

responsible for collagen

breakdown.

Krause always suggests

applying Mesoestetic

Cosmeretin on the skin

during professional treatment

protocols. “Cosmeretin is

Mesoetetic’s retinol in sterile

ampoule form. It is suitable

for mesotherapy and for use

with any trans dermal delivery

systems/machines. It is 0,001%

strength, which may appear

weak, however the formulation

allows for maximum

penetration,” she explains.

Healthy doseDermaFix’s vitamin A

Propionate supplies your skin

with a healthy dose of vitamin

A, helping with vitalisation

of the skin and improving

the appearance of wrinkles

and hyperpigmentation, with actinic

keratosis reducing to zero after 48

weeks. This lightweight formula is

ideal for all skin types, including dry,

sensitive and acne.

Dr Babor Derma Cellular Ultimate

A16 Booster Concentrate promises

your client’s skin a fresh, and fast

‘reboot’.

“With Retinew A16 we have

raised the bar,” explains Andrea

Weber, who heads the research and

innovation centre at Babor. “In the

new product that contains Retinew

A16, the concentrate is 16 times more

concentrated than vitamin A. Retinew

A16 is a protein fraction extracted

from the seeds of the moth bean. The

ingredient speeds up skin renewal by

activating the skin’s growth factors

as well as the fibroblasts, which

produce collagen. At the same

time, it stimulates the keratinocytes

that are responsible for epidermal

regeneration.”

Babor’s Derma Cellular

Detoxifying Vitamin Cream SPF 15

also contains Retinew A16 and high-

dose vitamins C and E to strengthen

the skin’s immune defence system

and improve the skin’s natural ability

to protect itself against UV rays.

Pevonia Spa Clinica’s Micro-

Retinol product includes highly

active ingredients of retinol,

collagen and elastin, vitamins C and

E and hyaluronic acid to stimulate

cellular growth and speed up cell

turnover. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: [email protected]

ResuLTs

The known effects that a customer will experience from a retinol product are:

• Markedincreaseinepidermalcell turnover, resulting in smoother, plumper, more radiant skin.

• Improvedcirculation,reducinga sallow appearance on the skin and giving it a healthy glow.

• Decreasedmelaninsynthesis,which will even out and unify the skin tone and can improve actinic keratosis.

• Collagenproductionwillbe stimulated, therefore compacting and firming the skin.

• Anoticeablereductioninfinelines, wrinkles and expression lines.

Source: Ursula Hunt of DermaFix


70 saahsp

Cidesco Section South Africa Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

Representatives from CIDESCO’s South Africa Section attended the international CIDESCO congress, which took place in Athens, Greece, in October.

SA delegation at CIDESCO Congress

As the host for the 2015

CIDESCO World Congress

and Exhibition, South Africa

took the opportunity offered by

the congress in Greece to connect

with colleagues, friends and new

acquaintances to encourage

attendance for this year’s event.

For the past 62 years, CIDESCO

has hosted global congresses all

over the world. Attendees of the

2014 congress in Greece report that

it was a well-run and informative

event, offering valuable insight on a

number of key topics. The programme

provided a hands-on approach, with

demonstrations of various massage

techniques from around the world,

as well as specialised make-up

applications. It also looked at a variety

of treatment protocols and highlighted

the latest advancements in therapy

and skincare technology. Speakers

from all over the world shared their

expertise and knowledge.

South African representatives

Helene Bramwell (honorary CIDESCO

president and CIDESCO gold medallist)

and Karen Ellithorne (somatologist/

medical aesthetic seminar organiser)

were invited to talk on: ‘Aesthetics of

yesterday, today, tomorrow’.

Bramwell and Ellithorne focused

on the ever-changing nature of our

industry and the importance of keeping

up to date, particularly in line with a

more educated consumer. They looked

at how the South African industry has

South Africa will host the 63rd

CIDESCO World Congress

& Exhibition of Aesthetics,

Spa, Health and Beauty at the

Sandton Convention Centre in

Johannesburg from May 23 to 25,

2015.

The theme of this year’s

conference is: ‘Skin is Alive’ with

an emphasis on the important

therapeutic role therapists play

working beyond the epidermis,

looking at the science behind

current skincare practices. It will

provide practical knowledge

and insight, covering topics

such as skin peeling, hormonal

influences, light therapies, pH

imbalances and the latest anti-

ageing technologies.

evolved, and how certain synergies

are forming between doctor and

therapist. Bramwell and Ellithorne

maintained that the therapist needs

to remember that their role is central

to all medical professions, and, as

such, must remain connected and

informed about what is happening in

an expanding industry. This lecture

was well received and resulted in

lengthy discussions with delegates

and training institutions from other

countries.

Exchanging flags As part of being selected to host

the CIDESCO World Congress next

year, Bramwell and fellow South

African representative Menna Kleine

were invited on stage to exchange

flags with outgoing host, Greece.

The face of Mandela on the South

African flag was a huge hit, causing

great excitement in the audience.

In addition, South Africa

presented the CIDESCO inter-

national president, Anna-Cari

Gund, and the CIDESCO president

of Greece, Iro Koroneau, with

authentically crafted CIDESCO

friendship cups – a token that they

What to expect at the 2015 Congress in SA

Helene Bramwell, honorary CIDESCO president (South Africa), Dianne Miles, honorary CIDESCO member(Australia), Kyriacos Poupoutsis, honorary CIDESCO president (Cyprus) and Fanie Poupoutsis, CIDESCO president (Cyprus)

hope will become a tradition for years

to come.

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

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business tips

72

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