Newspaper October 2008 part 2
14
www.patagoniablacksheep.com 15 Black Sheep e Green Pages. Backpack - Check. Sleeping bag - Check. Boots - Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses - Check. iPod - Check.Do you ever wonder where all this stuff comes from? Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made?What happens before it makes its way to the store?What happens when you’re done using it? The internet video ‘The Story of Stuff With Annie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line of consumption, from extraction to disposal.You need to check out this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do the same. Most of us are at least a little bit familiar with the gruesome statistics surrounding waste. In the Amazon, 2,000 trees are being cut down every minute. 80% of the world’s original forests are gone, kaput. The U.S. government admits to producing four billion pounds of toxic chemicals every year. Individuals produce 4.5 pounds of garbage a day.If everyone on Earth consumed as crazily as Americans, we would need 3-5 planets in order to survive.The statistics vary slightly according to source,but any way you look at them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed, they’re there. It’s easy to stay numb to the data, maybe because we already know it too well or we rely on our material items so much, we believe we can’t live without them. Plus, we only see the product part of production, the easy, consumable part. Ads glide across our televisions,telling us we need to buy more stuff, newer stuff.We eye what’s on the shelves in the stores, all so easy to buy, and so cheap, especially when you think about all the labor that goes into making the product. Metal mined in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. These days, the average American consumes twice as much more than they did 50 years ago.For a reason.We might think the consumer boom existed longer than we have, but it was, in fact, premeditated and researched.American post-WWII retail analyst Victor LeBeau said, “Our enormously productive economy… demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in consumption… We need things consumed, burned up, replaced and discarded at an ever- accelerating rate.” But the mad cycle that such consumerism calls for doesn’t make people happy. Think of the huge number of prescriptions for anti-depressants (another item to consume, of course). Work till you drop. Watch TV to relax. Feel low because of the pretty people on commercials suggest you be more like them. Buy more to be like the pretty people in those ads.Work more to afford to buy more, and so on. We shouldn’t think of this as a purely North American problem,however.The maniacal cycle pervades many countries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If people created the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate a more sustainable way to live with our Earth.To find out more, take 20 minutes to view ‘The Story of Stuff.’And recycle the information: Pass it on! As a traveler,do you ever wonder how the recycle programs work? Are there even programs to recycle? In Patago- nia, we’ve all noticed the lack of garbage bins, much less recycle bins. In many cities, it is up to the individual businesses to sort and save their recyclables in hopes that, by the end of the season, there will be some sort of system in place to pass their sorted items onto recycling plants. People have to get creative. Some businesses are known for sorting everything, even their organic waste, which is collected and fed to local pigs. Some restaurants in Chile rinse out and store their used tetrapak cartons (milk and juice cartons with the silver lining) all season long, before they ship them all to Santiago. Often, before the season is over, these recycling optimists run out of storage space.And when they do, they’ll be forced to start throwing away perfectly recyclable items.What happens when the season is over? Most places will produce less trash with fewer travelers passing through, but the chances that the folks who stay in their towns during winter will be able to recycle their recyclables, also become fewer, because the pro- grams all seem to fizzle and fade. Disposing of non-recyclable garbage is another stinky subject. Litter rustling around in the wind is a huge blight on the Patagonian landscape. And it accumulates every garbage day. In Chilean Patagonia, where plastic bags haven’t been banned as they have in Argentine places like Calafate and Chaltén, everybody puts garbage out to be collected at the same time, twice a week. On garbage day, residents hang their garbage bags, usually once-used, flimsy plastic grocery bags, from trees, or place them in holey raised baskets outside their houses.Then the mobs of hungry street dogs hunt down the town’s leftover grub, tearing open white bag after white bag.Trash spills every- where, just in time for the wind to swoop in and sweep it where it may. Not to put a damper on your trip, but if you’re wondering what you can do as a traveler,here are a few ideas. Express concern everywhere you go.Ask about recycling pro- grams. Don’t buy bottled water; the tap water in most of Pata- gonia is delicious and safe.Try to buy things that don’t don a lot of packaging waste. Refuse the plastic bags you’ll be given, and bring your own burlier, reusable bag.Take waste back home with you, especially little things, like spent batteries.These small acts may not seem like much, but every little bit helps. Chile Passes National Whale Sanctuary Law Patagonian garbage blowin’ in the wind. Work. Consume. Repeat. Metal mined in South Africa. Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic thrown in from China. Assembled in Mexico. Shipped to the United States. Shelved and sold as cheaply and as quickly as possible. The story of stuff. Mandala Andino Live your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch. phone 56 61 414143 • [email protected] • Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile b.zamora 732, puerto natales www.erraticrock.com 56 61 414317 puerto natales, chile erratic rock 2 bed & breakfast baquedano 719, puerto natales www.erraticrock.com 56 61 410355 erratic rock backpacker’s hostel hostels • equipment • information • guides On September 11, 2008, the Chilean Congress unanimously approved a bill declaring Chilean jurisdictional waters to be a whale sanctuary. Now, the bill heads to the desk of President Michelle Bachelet who originally submitted the measure to Congress. She is expected to announce the bill as a Law of the Republic shortly. Chilean conservation and fishermen’s groups praised the legislators for supporting the will of the Chilean people regarding conservation of the waters off Chile’s 3,400 mile (5,500 km) long coast.They said the final approval of the law will allow Chile to attend the intersessional meeting of the International Whaling Commission next week in Florida with a strong message of conservation and non-lethal use of cetaceans. “We are extremely happy with the consensus obtained in support of the law, including the national and international community, the legislative and executive branch and the Chilean Navy,” said spokesman.“We are extremely happy since this law will help us as a country to protect the marine biodiversity.It is our duty and obligation to do so.” Black Sheep online. Coming Soon...
-
Upload
tania-morales -
Category
Documents
-
view
228 -
download
2
description
Description
Transcript of Newspaper October 2008 part 2
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
15Black Sheep
The Green Pages.
Backpack-Check.Sleepingbag-Check.Boots- Check. Gore-tex jacket - Check. Sunglasses - Check. iPod-Check.Doyoueverwonderwhereallthisstuffcomesfrom?Sure, it’s from the store, but how is it made?What happensbeforeitmakesitswaytothestore?Whathappenswhenyou’redone using it?The internet video‘The Story of StuffWithAnnie Leonard’ (www.storyofstuff.com) explores the line ofconsumption, from extraction to disposal.You need to checkout this eye-opening video, and tell your friends to do thesame. Mostofusareatleastalittlebitfamiliarwiththegruesomestatistics surroundingwaste. In the Amazon, 2,000treesarebeingcutdowneveryminute. 80% of the world’soriginalforestsaregone,kaput.TheU.S.governmentadmitstoproducing four billion poundsof toxic chemicals every year.Individualsproduce4.5poundsofgarbageaday.IfeveryoneonEarth consumed as crazily asAmericans,wewouldneed3-5planetsinordertosurvive.Thestatisticsvary slightlyaccordingtosource,butanywayyoulookat them, even if you choose to do so with your eyes closed,they’rethere. It’seasytostaynumbtothedata,maybebecausewealreadyknowittoowellorwerelyonourmaterialitemssomuch,webelievewecan’tlivewithoutthem.Plus,weonlyseetheproductpartofproduction, theeasy,consumablepart.Adsglideacrossourtelevisions,tellingusweneedtobuymorestuff,newerstuff.Weeyewhat’sontheshelvesinthestores,allsoeasytobuy,andsocheap,especiallywhenyouthinkaboutall the labor thatgoes intomaking theproduct.Metalmined
inSouthAfrica.PetroleumdrilledinIraq.Someplasticthrownin fromChina.Assembled inMexico.Shipped to theUnitedStates.Shelvedandsoldascheaplyandasquicklyaspossible. Thesedays,theaverageAmericanconsumestwiceasmuchmorethantheydid50yearsago.Forareason.Wemightthinktheconsumerboomexistedlongerthanwehave,butitwas,infact,premeditatedandresearched.Americanpost-WWIIretailanalystVictorLeBeausaid,“Ourenormouslyproductiveeconomy…demands thatwemake consumptionourwayoflife, thatweconvert thebuyinganduseofgoods intorituals,thatwe seekour spiritual satisfaction, our ego satisfaction, in
consumption…We need thingsconsumed, burned up, replacedand discarded at an ever-acceleratingrate.” But the mad cyclethat such consumerism callsfor doesn’t make people happy.Think of the huge number ofprescriptionsforanti-depressants(another item to consume, ofcourse). Work till you drop.Watch TV to relax. Feel lowbecause of the pretty peopleon commercials suggest you bemorelikethem.Buymoretobe
liketheprettypeopleinthoseads.Workmoretoaffordtobuymore,andsoon. We shouldn’t think of this as a purely NorthAmericanproblem,however.Themaniacalcyclepervadesmanycountries. It’s time to hop off this hamster wheel. If peoplecreated the model of consumerism, surely, we can recreate amoresustainablewaytolivewithourEarth.Tofindoutmore,take20minutestoview‘TheStoryofStuff.’Andrecycletheinformation:Passiton!
Asatraveler,doyoueverwonderhowtherecycleprogramswork?Arethereevenprogramstorecycle?InPatago-nia,we’veallnoticedthelackofgarbagebins,muchlessrecyclebins.Inmanycities,itisuptotheindividualbusinessestosortandsavetheirrecyclablesinhopesthat,bytheendoftheseason,therewillbesomesortofsysteminplacetopasstheirsorteditemsontorecyclingplants.Peoplehavetogetcreative.Somebusinessesareknownforsortingeverything,eventheirorganicwaste,whichiscollectedandfedtolocalpigs.SomerestaurantsinChile rinseoutand store theirused tetrapakcartons (milkandjuicecartonswiththesilverlining)allseasonlong,beforetheyshipthemalltoSantiago. Often, before the season is over, these recyclingoptimistsrunoutofstoragespace.Andwhentheydo,they’llbeforcedtostartthrowingawayperfectlyrecyclableitems.Whathappenswhentheseasonisover?Mostplaceswillproducelesstrashwithfewertravelerspassingthrough,butthechancesthatthefolkswhostayintheirtownsduringwinterwillbeabletorecycle their recyclables, alsobecome fewer,because thepro-gramsallseemtofizzleandfade. Disposing of non-recyclable garbage is anotherstinky subject. Litter rustling around in the wind is a huge
blighton thePatagonian landscape.And it accumulates everygarbage day. In Chilean Patagonia, where plastic bags haven’tbeenbannedastheyhaveinArgentineplaceslikeCalafateandChaltén,everybodyputsgarbageouttobecollectedatthesametime,twiceaweek.Ongarbageday,residentshangtheirgarbagebags,usuallyonce-used,flimsyplasticgrocerybags,fromtrees,orplacetheminholeyraisedbasketsoutsidetheirhouses.Thenthemobsofhungrystreetdogshuntdownthetown’sleftovergrub,tearingopenwhitebagafterwhitebag.Trashspillsevery-where,justintimeforthewindtoswoopinandsweepitwhereitmay. Not to put a damper on your trip, but if you’rewonderingwhatyoucandoasatraveler,hereareafewideas.Expressconcerneverywhereyougo.Askaboutrecyclingpro-grams.Don’tbuybottledwater;thetapwaterinmostofPata-gonia isdeliciousandsafe.Trytobuythingsthatdon’tdonalotofpackagingwaste.Refusetheplasticbagsyou’llbegiven,andbringyourownburlier,reusablebag.Takewastebackhomewithyou,especiallylittlethings,likespentbatteries.Thesesmallactsmaynotseemlikemuch,buteverylittlebithelps.
Chile Passes National Whale Sanctuary Law
Patagonian garbage blowin’ in the wind.
Work. Consume. Repeat.
Metal mined in South Africa.
Petroleum drilled in Iraq. Some plastic
thrown in from China. Assembled in
Mexico. Shipped to the United States.
Shelved and sold as cheaply and as
quickly as possible.
The story of stuff.
Mandala AndinoLive your life to the fullest extent possible with bodywork based on gentle touch.
phone 56 61 414143 • [email protected] • Eberhard 161, Puerto Natales, Chile
b.zamora 732, puerto nataleswww.erraticrock.com
56 61 414317
puerto natales, chile
erratic rock 2bed & breakfast
baquedano 719, puerto nataleswww.erraticrock.com
56 61 410355
erratic rockbackpacker’s hostel
hostels • equipment • information • guides
On September 11, 2008, the Chilean Congressunanimously approved a bill declaring Chilean jurisdictionalwaterstobeawhalesanctuary.Now,thebillheadstothedeskof President Michelle Bachelet who originally submitted themeasuretoCongress.SheisexpectedtoannouncethebillasaLawoftheRepublicshortly. Chilean conservation and fishermen’s groupspraised the legislators for supporting the will of the Chileanpeople regarding conservationof thewatersoffChile’s 3,400mile(5,500km)longcoast.Theysaidthefinalapprovalofthe
lawwillallowChiletoattendtheintersessionalmeetingoftheInternationalWhalingCommissionnextweekinFloridawithastrongmessageofconservationandnon-lethaluseofcetaceans. “We are extremely happy with the consensusobtained in support of the law, including the national andinternational community, the legislative and executive branchand the Chilean Navy,” said spokesman. “We are extremelyhappy since this lawwill helpus as a country to protect themarinebiodiversity.Itisourdutyandobligationtodoso.”
Black Sheep online. Coming Soon...
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
16 October.08
Hosteria Fono: 56 61 412481Reservas Fono:56 61 220014 (Punta Arenas)
H o s t e r i a
L a g o d e l T o r oLaundry, Transfers, Horse riding
Río Serrano, [email protected]
Like home...
Torres del PaineNational Park
Ar
ge
nt
in
a
Cerro Castillo
PueblitoRío Serrano
Puerto Toro
Puerto Natales
Última Esperanza Fjord
Lago del Toro
Lago Sarmiento
Bernardo O’Higgins
National Park
Torred del Paine
National Park
Lago Nördenskjold
Lago Paine
Lago Dickson Lago Azul
Laguna
Amarga
Milodon
Cave
Lago PehoeLago Verde
Cam
po
de l
Hie
l o S
ur
-
Pa t
ago
nia
n S
ou
ther
n Ic
e F
ield
Lago Grey
to w n s
r o a d s
t r a i l s
r i v e r
c a m p i ng
G l a c i e rG r e y
del Paineional Park
Ar
ge
nt
in
a
t o w n s
r o a d s
t r a i l s
r i v e r
c a m p i n g
dtion
park entrance
Sierra del Toro
What’s the weather going to be like? That’stheforbiddenquestion.Butweputthisoneinjustforfun!...No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Planforeverything,butmostlycold.Theweatherchangesconstantly.
How long does the trekking season last?RoughlyfromOctobertoApril,butit’slastinglongereveryyear.Thetruthisthatit’sbeautifulhereallthetime,andtheParkisgreatinwinter.
How far is it to the Park from Natales?FromNatales,bybus,it’sabout2to2.5hours.
What time do the buses leave in the morning?Mostbusespickupandleavebetween7and8a.m.
What’sthelatestIcanstartatrekinthePark?
Inhighseason(Dec.-Mar.),thereisanafternoonbustotheParkat2p.m.,másomenos.
Can the buses to the Park pick me up from my hostel? Somedo.Itdependsonifyourhostelisfriendlywiththebuscompany.
What’s the Park entrance fee this month?
8.000clp(about$16greenbacksUSD).
How much does camping cost in the Park?Campingcosts3.500to4.000pesosperperson,notpertent,perday,attheprivatelyrunsites.TheCONAFsitesarefree.Intheoff-season(aboutApril-August),closedcampsitesarefree.
Which campsites are always free?LosGuardes,Italiano,Británico,Japones,LasTorres,Paso,Pingo,andLasCarretas.
How much money do I need to bring in the Park with me?8.000enterance+11.000catamaran+paidcampingnightsandminishuttleequalsroughly40.000clp.
Do I get a map when I enter the Park?Yes.Youcanalsobuyanicerwallmapintown.
Are the times on the trail maps accurate?ThetimesareprettyaccurateontheCONAFmap,dependingonyourphysicalcondition.Someofthebooksseemtobealittleoffthough.
What time is sunrise and sunset?
Itchanges,ofcourse,butyoucanfindoutthespecificsonthebackofthemaptheygiveyouwhenyouenterthePark.Duringsummer,fromroughlyDecembertoMarch,youhaveabout18hoursofdaylight.
If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the Towers first?
Anyexperiencedclimber,trekkerorhikerwilltellyoutomakeaplanandsticktoit,butaslongasyourlogisticsallworkoutthereisnothingwronginalittleimprov.
Is it better to trek the park clockwise or counterclockwise?
You’llfindthatoutdatedguidebookstellyoutogoclockwise,butmosttrekkersfindthatcounterclockwiseflowsthroughthe‘W’betterandmakesforamorescenicdayovertheJohnGardnerPass.
How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park?TheCatamarancosts11.000pesosperpersononeway.18.000roundtrip.Itshutsdownduringwinter.
Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and matress at the refugios?
Yes,butyoucan’ttakethemwithyouasyoutrek.Keepinmindthatmanyrefugiosstayclosed
duringthewinteroff-season.
Is food sold in the Park? Youcanbuyhotmealsintherefugiosaswellassomecampingfoodstaples.
Do I need to tie up my food in the Park?
MicehavebeenaproblemintheParkrecently,soitisagoodideatotieupyourfood.
Can you drink the water in the Park?Youbet!Bestwaterintheworld.Justmakesureit’sfreshrunoff,notlakewateroranythingdownstreamfromacamporrefugio.
Do I need sunscreen in the Park?YES!Theholeintheozonehoversrightoverusduringspringandsummer.Itcanandwillcauseproblemsafteramulti-daytrekinthepark.TheUVrayscomethroughthecloudstoo,sodon’tskimponthesunprotection.
Should I worry about bugs in the Park?Youwillseebugsonthebackcircuitifthereisnowindandsomewarmerweather.Bugrepellentisagoodidea.
Do I have to worry about making my reservation for the bus on my way back from Torres del Paine?
Yes.Fornow,inearlyseason,makesuretotalktotheofficeyouboughtyourticketat,andspeaktothedriver-justtobesure.Itbecomeseasierinmid-season.
How do I contact the Park’s Search and Rescue if something happens?There’snoofficialSearchandRescue,butanyoftheCONAFrangerstationscanhelpyou.
questions & answers
Torres del Paine, Chile Torres del Paine National Park is bordered by the SouthernPatagonianIceField,oneofthelargestglaciatedareasintheworldoutsideofAntarctica. Sister park toYosemite inCalifornia,Torres delPaine’s busy trailsystem,priceyrefugiosandthe200,000visitorsithostsperyear,maynotbeparadiseforthoselookingforsomethingremote.Thatsaid,it’ssopopularforareason.TheTorresandCuernosoccupypostcardsandbookcoversallovertheworldandtheyareasymbolforChile.“Paine,”bytheway,meansblue,andyou’llseebluesthatwillblowyourmind. Plus,itispossibletogetawayfromthecrowds,especiallyifyoustaylongenough,forexample,todothebackendofthecircuit,andnotjustthe
standardWtrek.Toventureeven furtheraway fromthemasses,visitLagunaAzulorPingo.Even if youdon’t stray from thewell-trodpartsof thePark,makesureyoucheckouttheicebergsonLagoGrey,andwatchtheNationalGeographicpumafilmattheAdministrationVisitorCenter. Humansettlementtracesbackto12,000yearsago.Estancias(ranches)were started by German and British colonists in the 1890s. More recently,truckloadsofbarbedwirefencinghavegraduallybeenremovedfromtheParkasthelandisconvertedfromestanciabacktoitsnaturalstate.
UNESCOBIOSPHERERESERVE:1978
TOTALAREA:242,242hectares
PAINEGRANDE:3,050meters
LOSCUERNOS:2,200mto2,600m
FOULWEATHERGEAR:Essential
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
17Torres del Paine
One-way ticket: $11.000 per person (one backpack allowed)Round-trip ticket: $18.000 per person
Los Arrieros 1517, Puerto Natales, Chile, Ph: 61-411380, Email: [email protected]
CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS2008-2009 Season Schedule
A comfortable & secure voyage across
Lake Pehoe...
Dates From Pudeto From Refugio Pehoe
October 1 - 15, 2008 12.00 12.30
October 16 - November 15, 2008 12.00 18.00
12.3018.30
November 16, 2008 - March 15, 2009 09.30*12.0018.00
10.00*12.3018.30
March 16 - 31, 2009 12.0018.00
12.3018.30
April 2009 12.00 12.30*No trips at 09:30 or 10:00 on the following dates: 25/12/2008 & 01/01/2009.
Fot
ogra
fia ©
200
8 D
anie
l B
ruhi
n W
.
AMA.ThewordmeansloveinSpanish.AndthisiswhattheAgrupaciónMedioambientalTorres del Paine (known as AMA for
short),isallabout.TheenvironmentalconservationorganizationcaresfortheareasinandaroundTorresdelPaineNationalPark.Theydotheirbesttomakesure the Park isn’t loved to death by the 128,000peoplevisitingiteachyear. Ecologist and director ofAMA, JulianaTorres, says, “The park is dealing with a hugenumberofvisitorseveryday.Ourbiggestchallengeistoinformvisitorsandmakesuretheyrealizehowimportantitistoleavenotrace,behaveproperlyandcare about the natural beauty ofTorres del Painewhilethey’reenjoyingit.” TorresplanstofocusAMA’soncreatingprogramsthateducatelocalsandvisitorsabouttheenvironmentanditsneeds.Shealsohopestoorganizeconservationprojects,suchastrailmaintenanceandrecyclingprograms,alongwithsupportingscientistsintheirinvestigationsofthePark’sfloraandfauna. OscarGuineo,aplantresearcherandparkrangersincethePark’screationin1975,collaborateswithAMA,performinginvestigationsofvegetationin areas burned by wildfire as well as a census oftheendangeredhuemul(Andeandeer).GuineoseesAMAasamuch-neededorganizationinTorresdelPaine, where the administration’s main priorities,thus far, have been promoting recreation andtourism,notconservation. Guineo hopesAMA can help to focuspeople’sattentionontheimportanceofprotectingtheplantsandanimals.“Workingtogetherwiththe
park administration and bringing experts in fromaround the world has the potential to benefit theParktremendously.Ifexpertsfromotherplacescomeandsaythingsarebadandtheyneedtochange,theymightchange.” This is what volunteers from aroundthe world do: they travel to Patagonia and helpAMA achieve its environmental and conservationgoals. JacobWagner,a23-year-oldnaturalresourcemanagement student from Colorado, participatedinawildfirevegetationstudy.Hejoinedabrigadein fighting a wildfire near Laguna Azul, helpedconstruct a new trail near Refugio Chileno, anddeliveredapresentationonLeaveNoTraceprinciplestotheguideswhoworkfortheLasTorreshotel.“SomanyofthepeoplewhocometoTorresdelPainedon’thavemuchexperiencebeingoutside,”Wagnersaid.“Tohaveagrouptoeducatevisitorsandbethevoicesaying,‘Takecareofthisplace,’iscrucial.” TorreshopesAMAcanstartworkingwiththenationalcorporationsthatruntheParkaswellas the various guiding companies, tour operators,andhotels thatworkwithin it.“Intheend,weallhavethesameobjectivesandmission:toprotectthisbeautifulplace.Weneedtoworktogether.Weneedcommitment,andweneedcooperation.” AMA is looking for volunteers withknowledge of and passion for the environmentto work 2-4-week stints. They are also seekingmonetaryhelptofundtheirconservationprojects. For information about how to donateyourtimeormoney,checkouttheAMAwebsiteatwww.amatorresdelpaine.org.
Torres del Paine. Volunteers Needed. By Christina Cooke
Pisco Sour, your post-trail cocktail In Chile, the food is not sophisticated,but it’s delicious.There’s awide variety ofmeats,includinglamb,pork,beef,fish,shellfish,andpoul-try.Youmighteven tasteguanaco,ñandu,boar,ordeer.(Yes,there’salotofmeat...goodluckifyou’reavegetarian!) Butyou’ll alsofindgood, strongdrinksand a pisco culture. Pisco is like awhiskeymadefrom grapes.There are many pisco-mixed drinksoutthere,piscola(piscoandcoke)beingoneofthemostcommon.Piscosouristhemostpopularpiscodrinkamongtourists.It’sagoodideatotrypiscosoursatdifferentplaces,becauseeachrestaurantorbar has their own touch or flavor. You can evenfinddeliciouscalafatesourbasedonthesamemix.Butyoucanalsomakepiscosouryourself,inyourhosteloronceyougethome.
Pisco Sour3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Powdered sugar 1 egg whiteIce cubes
Blendthepiscoandlemonjuice.Whileblending,addpowderedsugartotaste,theeggwhite,andtheicecubes.Inaminute,itwillbereadytodrink.Insomefamilies,it’satraditiontowelcomeguestswithatoastofpiscosour,sopuckerupandenjoy!
•••••
For any climbing expeditions in thePark you need to fulfill all the necessary condi-tions setbyCONAF(ChileanNationalForestryCorporation)andDIFROL(DirreccióndeFron-terasyLimitesdelEstado).Here’swhatyouneedtodo... GetDIFROLapproval.Youcanobtainitbeforeyouleavehome,andit´sfree.Checkouttheirwebsite(www.difrol.cl).Download an ap-plication form.You can apply forDIFROLper-missioneitherdirectly to a regional governmentoffice in Chile or via the Chilean Consulate inyourowncountry.IfyouarriveinPuertoNataleswithout DIFROL permission, visit the regionalgovernmentofficesintown,onEberhardandTo-masRogers,telephone:411423. Onceintheareainwhichyouwanttoclimb,youneed to report to theCarabinerosdeChile. In the Park, they’re atCerroCastillo andat theAdministrationCentre.They’llcheckyourauthorization and make sure you’re adequatelyequippedforyourexpedition. Thenyou’llneedCONAFpermission,which is also free. It is granted by theParkAd-ministrator.Makesureyoutaketheseitemstotheparkwithyou...
YourDIFROLapprovalPassportsofeverymemberofyourgroupInsurancepolicydetails,includingnameandaddress of the insurer, policynumber and acontacttelephonenumber
•••
Details of your route(s) and intended tim-escale.
PlanatriptotheAdministrationCen-tre.At theAdministrationCentre, youwill needtoprovidethenameofyourExpedition(soifyoudon’thaveanamealready,thinkupsomethingim-pressivebeforeyouarrive!)andallthedocumen-tationmentionedabove. Theinsurancedocumentsarevital.Youwillnotgetyourpermitwithoutthem.Theper-mitisrequiredforyourownprotectioninthecaseofanemergency.IfyouhaveanaccidentCONAFneedstoknowfirstlywhereyouare,andalsothatyou have the insurance cover in place to meetthe costs of any rescue operation needed.WhileCONAF Park rangers will assist anyone who isinjuredorotherwiseincapacitatedonthemarkedtrailswithoutcharge,itdoesnothavetheresourc-estorescuethosewhoundertakedangeroussportsoffthemarkedtrails.Youdothatatyourownriskandexpense. YouwillbegivenacopyoftheCONAFpermit,whichyouneedtotaketotherangersta-tionofthefirstsectorinwhichyouareplanningtoclimb.CONAFwillnominateaParkrangerasthemaincontactforyourexpeditionwithwhomyou should stay in contact through the durationofyour climbing, so that theycanmonitoryoursafetyandknowwhenyouleave.
•
TorresdelPaineClimbingPermitInformation
Fantastico Sur+56-61360361,[email protected] Cuernos & Torre Central are open. Chileno will open October 2.Seron will open mid-October. Torre Norte will open November 1.
[email protected] Paine Grande is open. Campamento Perros open mid-October. Refugio Dickson open mid-October. Refugio Grey open Oct 1st.
Torres del Paine Refugio Information
Prices are in U.S. dollars*
Breakfast $10.00 Dormbed $40.00
Lunch $14.00 Campsite $7.00
Dinner $18.00 Sleepingbag $9.00
Fullboard $80.00 2-persontent $14.00
Mattress $3.00
*Prices are approximate and may be slightly higher at some refugios.
Note:Schedulesoftenchangeatthestartoftheseason.Checkwiththerefugiocompaniesdirectlyforthelatestinfoforopeningsandclosures.
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
18 October.08
AQUANATIVA
www.aquanativapatagonia.cominfo@aquanativapatagonia.comEberhard161,Phone:5661414143
BELLAPATAGONIA
[email protected],Phone:5661412489
FORTALEZAEXPEDICIONES
www.fortalezapatagonia.clexplore@fortalezapatagonia.clT.Rogers235,Phone:5661613395
INDOMITA
[email protected],Phone:5661414525
LAMADDERA
[email protected],Phone:5661413318
ONASPATAGONIA
[email protected],Phone:5661412034
RUTASPATAGONIA
[email protected],Phone:5661613874
SENDEROAVENTURA
[email protected],Phone:5661415636
SERRANOAVENTURA
[email protected],Phone:5661410115
TUTRAVESIA
[email protected],Phone:5661415747
Pata
goni
a’s
Perf
ect
Spor
t.
PuertoNataleskayakdirectory
Kayaking.
Think of one thing you enjoy doingoutside.Nowthinkabouthowyougotintoit.Mostpeople have role models: parents, siblings, friends,teachers. Or they find role models through themedia.IworkfortheHeadlandsInstitute,anonprofitenvironmental education organization near SanFrancisco,California.We try tomakemulticulturalconnections in everything we teach, using diverseenvironmentalmodels,soourstudentscanrelateandbeinspired.Themoreyouseerolemodelswhoyoucanrelateto,themoreyoubelievethatyouhavethesamepotential. There are many ways that peoplemake connections to nature. I, for example, havedeveloped a deep connection to thenaturalworldthrough outdoor adventures like climbing, surfing,andbackcountryskiing.SoIreadmagazinessuchas“Climbing,”“Surfing,”and“Outside.”toseewhat’supwith these communities and activities. It didn’ttakemelongtowonderwhyalltheathletesalwayslook the same.They’re mostly all male. It’s evenharder to find female athletes of different origins,colors, abilities, ages, shapes, and sizes. Does thismean that we don’t have as many female outdoorathletes?Ordowejustnotseethem? These publications send an importantmessage,whetherintentionalornot,thatthesesportsare inaccessible tomanypeople, especiallywomen.Buttherearelotsofdiversewomenoutdoorathletesfromaroundtheworldwhoarewaitingtohavetheirstoriesbetold.I’mworkingasthatthatperson,theadventure photographer, who tracks down thesewomen and shares their images and their stories.Adventurerscomeintwogenders,inmanydifferent
colors, and from many different backgrounds.Andpeople fromallwalksof life shouldbe able to seethemselves in wilderness sports. I’m hoping todemystifyoutdooradventurestowomenandmen. IcametoPuertoNatales,Chile,tolookforwomen seakayakers. I askedaround town, andheardthename,CoteMarchant,fromseveralpeople.She is supposedly the only woman sea kayakingguideintown.IvisitedheratIndomita,thekayakingcompanywheresheworks.Shelistenedtomyprojectgoalscarefullyandasked,“HowcanIsupportyourproject?”IwassoonsignedupforadaytriptoFjordEberhardtoseeherworkforthenextday.Afewdayslater,Iwasonanothertrip,anovernightertoGlacierBalmaceda and Río Serrano.This provided me abiggerpictureofwhatit’sliketobeakayakingguide,becausethere’sawholeotherelementoftakingcareofpeopleoffthewater.Ilistenedtoher,asIhelpedhersetupacamp,preparemeals,washdishes,moveheavykayaks,andputawayequipment. “It’snotthatIcan’tdoit,Icandothesamething,butnotinasameway[asmen].”Herstoryistrulyinspiring,especiallyforthosewhogrewupinbigcitieswithlimitedaccesstooutdooradventures.“I’m not blaming my parents for not giving metheopportunity,”saidCote.“IfIeverhavemyownchildren,thefirstthingIamgoingtoteachthemishowpreciousitistohavethisbeautifulworldaroundus.Iwouldtellthemthatthisisthebestthingyouhaveandoneofthebestteachersinlife.” Cotetirelesslyworkedtobreakthemoldagainstwomeninoutdoorsports,whileestablishingherplaceasaseakayakingguideatIndomita.“Theways[women]dothingsisdifferent,”saysCote.“Our
thinkingprocessandlogicaredifferent.Womencanbetter understand how hormones and emotionsaffectyourdays,forexample.ThisisthereasonwhyIthinkitwouldbeeasiertoworkwithwomen.” Not only would it make Cote’s workeasier, but I also thinkwomenguides canconnectwithwomenclientsatadifferentlevel,providingasafeplaceforthemtomakemistakesandchallengethemselves without feeling intimidated by a malepresence. (Though, of course, many of you ladieshavenoproblemwiththis!)Myfriend,Erik,whohastaught many climbing courses at NOLS (NationalOutdoor Leadership School), once told me thatwhenevertherewasafemaleclimbinginstructor,heobservedthatthefemalestudentsclimbedbetter.Hethinksit’sbecausepeoplelearnbetterfromsomeonewho’s like them, someonewhomoves, thinks, anddoesthingssimilarly,andwhoshowsyouhow. “Iamtryingtostartsomethingtomotivatewomen to join me in the guiding community bytalkingtotheAsociacióndeGuíasÚltimaEsperanza(aguideassociationofÚltimaEsperanzaProvince).Kayaking might be difficult because it is suchdemandingwork.Youhavetobecertified,takecareof people, always dealing with weather and liftingweight.ButIwanttoseemorewomenjoinme,andIwanttocreatesomesupportforthosewhowanttotry,”saysCote.Justasmanypioneeroutdoorathletes--womenandmen--havepavedtheroadforthosetofollow,Cote has certainly created a path for otherwomentofollowherhereinPuertoNatales.WhenIcomebacktoPuertoNatalestopaddlewithherinthefuture,IhopeI’llfindherwithmorewomeninthefield.
Breaking Through: Women Outdoor Adventurers By Miho Aida
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
19Calafate
Lago Argentino
Arroyo Calafate
Calafate, Argentina
Coronel Rosales
Lost Pioneros Rio Gallegos
Ushuala
Calle 1
Av. Lib
ertador G
ral. S
an Martí
n
15 de Febrero Perioto Moreno
C. Tomás Espora
25 de Mayo
7 de Deciembre
Automovil C. Argentino Calle 15
Cacique Bigua
C.L. Piedra Buena
Buenos Aires
Calle 11
Comodoro Py
Calle 17
Calle 43
Calle 12
1 de Mayo Ezequiel Bustillo
Julio A. Roca
Campaña del D
esierto
Av. Juan D. Perón
José Pantin Los Gauchos
9 de Julio
How do I get to Calafate from Puerto Natales?
It’saboutfivehourswithbordercrossingonbuslinesCootraorZaajh.YoucanalsoarrivebyplanetoElCalafateAirportfromothercities.
What can I do in Calafate?
Glaciersarethemainattractions.PeritoMorenoGlacieristhefamousone.Andthereisafull-dayboattriptovisitsixotherglaciersinthearea(Upsala,Spegazzini,Onelli,Bolados,Agazzis,andHeim).
How do I get to/from the Calafate airport?
Bytheairportshuttle,whichcostsaround$18ARSperperson.Bytaxiit’s$50ARS.
How do the taxis (remises) work?
Therearedifferentremiscompanies,andyoucan’tjuststopthemonthestreetlikeothertaxis.Youhavetocallthemfromyouraccommodation,orgotooneoftheremisstops.
Where is the information center in Calafate?
Theinformationcenterisinthebusstation.
Can I drink the tap water?
InCalafate,youCANNOTdrinkthewater.YouCANdrinkthewaterinChaltén,everywhereexceptfromLagunaCapri.Useyourbestjudgment,though.Trytocollectyourwaterfromareaswheretherearen’ttoomanypeople.
Do I need to bring my own bag to the grocery stores?
Yes!!!Thesupermarketsdon’tgiveyouplasticsbags,astheyhavebeenoutlawed.Yay,progress!ThisgoesforCalafateandChaltén,sobringyourownclothbagorbackpack.Otherwiseyou’llbecarryingyourgroceriesaroundinacardboardbox.
When are the stores open, anyway?
InCalafate,they’reopenfrom9.30a.m.until10p.m.inhighseason.Inthewinter,they’reopenfrom10a.m.until8p.m.
What’s the weather like in these parts?
It’sPatagonia.Theweatherchangeseveryfiveminutes.Andit’ssuperwindyinthesummer.
How can I visit Perito Moreno Glacier?
Therearetoursthatincludepickupandguide.Theregularbusentrance.Youcanalsotakeoneoftheremises,thoughthisisamoreexpensiveoption.
What about ice hikes on the glacier?
There’sabigolemonopolytodotheicetrekonPeritoMorenoGlacier,throughHieloyAventura.Theyoffertwodifferenttreks:MinitrekkingandtheBigIce.TovisittheUpsalaandotherglaciers,youalsohaveonlyoneoption:afull-daytrip(from7a.m.till6p.m.)Bringyourownlunchfortheexcursions.TheParkhasrestaurantsbuttheycostaprettypenny,andeverybodygoestoeatatthesametime!
Who was Perito Moreno?
FranciscoMorenowasanArgentineexplorer,whoexploredmuchofthesouthernAndesandseveralPatagonianrivers.Peritomeans‘expert’inSpanish.
Is it safe at night?
Totally,butit’salwaysgoodtokeeparockhandy.
Where can I camp in El Calafate?
Thereareafewdifferentcampsites;allarecleanwithgoodfacilities,andallaroundARS$18perperson.ThebestoneisElOvejero.
Are there any cheap eating options?
Calafateisprettyexpensive,soifyoureallywanttoeatcheap,yourbestbetistopickupsomethingfromthesupermarket,orlookforempanadasinoneofthepanaderías.Also,somehostels,likeAmericadelSur,offertheirguestsall-you-can-eatasado(barbecue)dinners,withvegetarianoptions,andbeerorwineforareasonableprice.
What does Parque Nacional de los Glaciares include?
LagoRoca,PeritoMoreno,Upsalaandotherglaciers,andChaltén(FitzRoy,LagunadelDesierto,CerroTorre).
How do I get to El Chaltén from El Calafate?
Bybus.Ittakes4.5hourstogettoChalténfromCalafate.Inwinterthere’sonlyonebusinthemorning.
Can I get to El Chaltén directly from Puerto Natales?
Notreally.ThebusesleavingPuertoNatalesgetyoutoElCalafateby1.30p.m.Then,ifyou’reinahurry,youcancatchthenextbustoElChalténat6.30p.m.
How many people live in El Chaltén?
200peopleliveinArgentina’strekkingcapitalandyoungestcity,foundedin1985.
What services are in El Chaltén?
Therearen’tanyATMs,banks,orplacestochangemoney.Someplacesacceptdollarsoreuros,butnotChileanpesos.Also,fewplacesacceptcreditcards,soyoubetterbringArgentineanpesoswithyou.
Is there a Park entrance fee from Chaltén?
No.Eventhecampsitesarefree.TheirphilosophyisbasicallythattheParkbelongstoeverybodybecauseitisanaturaltreasure.Itisuptoallofustohelppreserveitforgenerationstocome.Asavisitor,youareexpectedtohelpcareforthepark,packoutyourtrash,keepallwatersourcesclean,andfollowallcommonsenseleave-no-traceprinciples.
Where is the Tourism Center in El Chaltén?
InElChaltén,youshoulddefinitelystopatthevisitor’scenterofParqueNacionalLosGlaciares(100metersacrossthebridgefromtown).MostofthestaffspeakEnglishandwillgiveyouthelowdownonhowtomakethemostofyourtimeinChaltén.TheyalsohaveagoodexhibitontheclimbinghistoryofCerrosTorreandFitzRoy.
Where can I find a free map of Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre?
IntheParkadministrationoffice.AllbusesstopthereandtheofficegivesyouamapandanorientationaboutthePark,includingabriefingonleavenotraceprinciples.
What if I don’t have lodging reservations?
Thetouristoffice,ComisióndeFomento,ProvinciaSantaCruz,canhelpyoulocateabedatahotelorhostel,whichcansaveyoufromgoingdoortodoor.Theofficehasflagsoutsideandisnearthebridgeon
thesamesideofthevillage.
Where can I camp in El Chaltén?
Inthemountains!Therearevariouscampsitesandallarefree,exceptforPiedradelFraile,whichisonprivatepropertyandcostsARS$25.CampPoincenotisagoodoptionforthosejonesin’togetapeekofFitzRoyatdawn.Inthevillage,MadsenattheendoftownrightnexttotheFitzRoyTrail,isfree.Therearealsoafewpay-forcampsiteswithrealbathroomsandhotshowers.
Can I find rental equipment?
Yep,fromavarietyofstoresonthemaindrag.
How many days should I plan to spend hiking?
Youatleastneedtostayonenightthere.Iftheweatherisgood,youcanspendthreenightsorsodoingsomeofthemorefamoustrailsandthenvisit
otherplaceslikeLagunadelDesierto.
Will my cell phone work in Chaltén?
Nope.Butwhatareyoudoingtravelingwithacellphoneanyway?
El CalafatE
El Chaltén
questions & answers
Calafate, Argentina LocatedonthesouthernshoreofstunningturquoiseLagoArgen-tino,ElCalafateisthejumping-offpointforvisitingPeritoMorenoGlacierandthegraniteneedlesofFitzRoyandElTorrenearElChaltén(Argentina’strekkingcapital). OfthehundredsofglaciersthatdrainfromtheSouthernIceField,PeritoMorenoisoneoffewthatisnotreceding.Itsaccessibilitymassivesizeareitsdraw,withawallofjaggedblueicemeasuringabout4,500metersacrossand60metershigh. Thetowntakesitsnamefromthemodestcalafatebush,knownforitsbrightyellowflowersanddeepvioletfruit,whichisusedtomakesweets
andliqueurs.Legendhasitthatifyoueatthefruitofthecalafatebush,youwillreturntoPatagonia. ThecenteroftownconsistsofabouteightblocksalongAvenueLib-ertador.EnjoyagoodbookandacupofhotchocolateatCaféLiterarioBorgesyAlvares.Forsomedeliciouslocalfarewithhome-cookedflare,likecazueladecordero,pasteldepapas,guisodelentejas,andfresh-bakedbreadthatislikelytodriveyounuts,headovertoPuraVida.StopbyLaBoutiquedelLibroforagoodvarietyofbooksinSpanishandEnglish.Ifyou’relookingfornightlife,therearetwopubsopendailyinthesummer:LaTolderiaandDonDiego,alargehousewhichhasservedasabarformorethan20years.
POPULATION:20,000
FOUNDED:1927
WHAT’SGROOVY:
BikingtheLagoArgentinoshoreline
JUSTINCASE:101(police),
107(hospital),105(firedept.)
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
20 October.08
Did you know?
El Chaltén Funky is the best word to describeChaltén,asmallvillagecreatedin1985andgrowingfast.Withnolessthanfourpanaderias(bakeries),itsownmicrobrewery,achocolateria,twobookstores,plusahostofhostels,hotels,andrestaurants,ChalténmanagestoretainitsWildWestfeel,bummingalongadustyroad. ThisiswhereLosGlaciaresNationalParkinvitesyoutoitsnorthernsector.Geologicallyit’sasisterpark toTorresdelPaine,butLosGlaciares isverydifferent,especiallyinitsphilosophy.TheParkisyoursand,whileyouvisit,it’syourjobtoprotectit.Parkentranceandcampingarefree,andfacilitiesarekepttoaminimum.Basicallytheonlyservicesarepit-stylelatrinesateverycampsite.Hikingoptionsrangefromaone-hourhiketoLosCondoresoverlook,tofiveorsixdaysinthebackcountry,passingglaciers,pristinemountainlakes,leafylengaforests,androckspireslikeFitzRoyandCerroTorre.
While in Chaltén, check these spots...
Super Mercado:Catering to theroadweary, thisshop has camping gear, trail grub, warm clothes,books, and souvenirs. Calle Lago del Desierto near Guemes.
Josh Aike Chocolatería: Established about 14years ago, this is the first stop for many climberscelebratingorbemoaningtheireffortsonthetowers.Calle Lago del Desierto.
Capilla a los Escaladores: Small chapel built inhonor of climbers who have died here. Built byAustrians,ofmostlyAustrianmaterials,inhonorofToniEggerwhodieddescendingCerroTorrewithItalian Cesare Maestri in 1959 (the disputed firstascent).Costanera Norte at Rio de las Vueltas.
Hostel Rancho Grande: The first hostel inChaltén, at the north end of the village. Showersavailable(checkforhoursandprices),agreatserviceifyou’recampinggratisatMadsen,justtothenorth.
Marco Polo Books:DecentselectionofbooksinSpanish,maps,andregionalbooksinEnglish.Calle Andreas Madsen 15.
Bodegon El Chaltén: Local microbrewery andrestaurant.Centrallylocated,afavorite.
El Calafate With its variety of food and lodging,Calafate is a town designed for tourism.You canrentacar,buygroceries,andvisitthefamousPeritoMoreno Glacier. For a broader view of Calafate,veer off the main road to quieter streets, such asMoyanoorGregores.You’relikelytostumbleuponinteresting shops, such as that of Raul Martinez and Paula Maza, who gather objects from natureto make original art (Calle Ezekial Bustillo, highseason). There’s no shortage of restaurants inCalafate,butthepricesareanythingbutcheap.La Minaisopenearlyforbreakfastuntillateatnight.With an ecclectic mix of music and rustic oldmining photos, you might find yourself lingeringthere longafteryour last sipofwineorcoffee.AtbustlingCasablanca,sinkyourteethintosomethinghealthy,likeabrownricesaladwithcolorfulveggies.Viva La Pepa boastsbrightdécor,freshflowers,andashadysetting,arefreshingplacetoenjoysweetorsavorycrepes,crisp salads,or fresh-fruit smoothies.Tosavoratraditionalmeal,visit La Tablita,servingPatagoniasince1964.Theirasadoscan’tbebeat,andtheyofferplentyofvegetarianoptionstoboot. For lunches that won’t break the bank,swingbythedeliatAnonimo Supermercado,whichoffersready-to-gogrub.Il Postino,on9deJulio,hasmeatandvegetarianempanadasaswell asquiches,agreatmealtosplitwithafriend,ortakewithyoutrekkingtoElChaltén. There are also a few things to do thatbreakawayfromthetouristyvortexofmainstreet.Plusthey’refree,ordarnclosetoit.Laguna Nimezeco-reserve,hometolocalbirdlife,includinguplandgeese, black-faced ibis, and flamingo, is about sixblocks north of town, across theArroyo.There’s asmall entrance fee.To get a closer gander ofLago Argentino, rent amountainbike (hourlyanddailyrates available) and head north onAvenida 17 deOctubretotheAvenidadelaCostanera,thecoastalroad.Pedalout anhour to reachPuntoSoberano,where the road ends and you can walk along theshoreanddrinkintheturquoisewatersofthelake.Just southeast of town, stroll to the Cañadon del Arroyo Calafate.There’sacreekthatrunsintoLagoArgentino,andfromhereyoucanscrambleupthecanyon. For so-close-yet-so-far views of the townandlake,hikeupCerro HuilicheorCerro Calafate. Askaroundforthebestrouteup.
The Dynamic Duo
Cauquenes de Nimes - Manzana 363 Calafate, Arg Tel 492306
www.cauquenesdenimez.com.ar
Si tu destino es El Calafate,Cauquenes de Nimez Lodge te espera...
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
21Bariloche
E.O. Connor
B.Mitre
MorenoJuramentoTucuman
BelgranoJJ Pasco
España
Av de los Pioneros
Av Gallardo
20 d
e Fe
brer
o Mor
ales
Qua
gia
Ville
gas
Rola
ndo
Pala
dos
O’C
onno
r
O’N
eil Ru
iz M
oren
o
Sarm
ient
o
Riva
davi
a
Albarracin
Anasagasti
Tiscorinia
Baily Willis
Tiscorinia
Marchiori
Luis Beltran
Monseñor Esandi
L a g o Na h u e l Hu ap i
San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina
How did Bariloche get its name?
Barilocheinterestinglyenoughgotitsnamefromatypo.Attheendofthe19thcenturyanEnglishpioneeroftheNahuelHuapiarea,EnriquePaterson,wrotealettertoasettlerofthesoutheastsectorofNahuelHuapi,CarlosWiederholdPiwonka.PatersonmistakenlyreferredtoMr.PiwonkaasSanCarlosinsteadofDonCarlos(Donbeingapolitewaytorefertoanownerofpropertyoracompany,andSan,referringtoasaint.).ThenamenotonlywasacomplimenttoMr.Piwonkabutitalsostuckasthearea’sname.OnJuly26,1927thenamewasofficiallydecreedthetitleofBariloche.
When is fishing season?
TheLimayRiver,oneofthelargestriversinthearea,drainsintoNahuelHuapi.Itisthebestbodyofwaterforcatchingbigfish.ThiseasternflowingriverisnotoriousforlargerainbowtroutinNovemberandDecemberandlargebrowntroutinMarchandApril.
How can I check airline status?
Gotowww.aa2000.com.artofindoutifyourplaneisontime.
Where can I get the best steak?
ElBolichedeAlbertoisBariloche’s“it”placeforsucculentsteak.Therearethreelocations,therestaurantatBustillokilometer8havingthebestreputation.
How far is the airport from the city center?
Approximately15minutes.
What is the usual ski season?
Theskiseasontypicallyrunsfrommid-Junetomid-October.
Where do the boat cruises leave from?
FromPuertoPañuelo,25kmwestoftown,acrossfromtheLlaoLlaoHotel.
Can I drink the water?
Absolutely!Itmaybethebestyouevertasted.
How many people live here?
Therearebetween85,000and150,000full-timeresidents,dependingonwhoyouask.
How far is El Bolsón from here?
ElBolsónisaboutanhourandahalfsouth.It’sagorgeousdriveandwellworththetripifyouhaveanextradayortwo.
How far is it to the Chilean border?
TheChileanborderisabouttwohoursawaybycar,travelingthroughVillaLaAngostura.
How do I communicate with the world?
Lookforalocutorio,manyhavebothinternetandtelephoneboothsavailable.
Where can I change money?
ThereisacasadecambioonAvenidaMitre,oneblockfromtheCentroCivico.
Where can I find a good trail map and information on the hiking trails?
ClubAndino,onthecornerof20deFebrero,
number30,kiddy-cornerfromtheYPFgasstationhasthemapsandinformationyouarelookingfor.
Can I hike year-round?
Yes,thelowerelevationtrailsaregenerallyfreeofsnowallyear.ThehigherelevationtrailsareavailablefromNovembertoMay.
What’s up with the siesta?
Argentinesneedtocatchupontheirsleep.Withdinnerstartingaround10p.m.,itissafetosaytheArgentinesarenightowls.Storesinelcentroaremoreapttostayopenduringtheday.Grocerystoresandlocutoriostendnottogoonsiesta.Normalsiestahoursarefrom12:30to4:30(giveortakeahalfhour).
Do I need a reservation for the refugios (mountain huts)?
No,buttheyareonafirst-come,first-servebasis.
Is it worth renting a car?
Absolutely.Manyofthetreasuresoftheareaarenotaccessiblebybus.Alsowiththefreedomofacaryoucancomeandgoasyoulike.
Is there a monster en Lago Nahuel Huapi?
Yes,theLochnessmonster’sdistantrelative,Nahuelito,livesinthelake,butheisveryfriendly.
What are they looking for at the traffic stops?
Wearen’tsure,butwehavefoundthatthelessSpanishyouspeak,thebetter.
What’s with all large groups in matching outfits?
It’sthelatestthing,grabafewfriends,startateamandpickyourowncolors.No,seriously.Bariloche
isahotspotforgraduatingclassestocomeandcelebratetheirnew-foundfreedom.Theycomeinhugegroupsandallwearthesamerentedoutfitsaskindofarah-rahthing.TheBraziliansdothesamethinginthewinter.
What’s with all the Saint Bernards and their owners?
Theseguyssellyoutherighttotakeapictureoftheirdog.Bewarethough.Ifyoutakeapictureofthecaninewithoutpayingforit,chaosmayensue.
Where should I go to get the best sandwich?
Morfy’s,sidestreetnexttotheciviccenter.
Where can I find the best ice cream?
There’sarainbowoficecreamshopsinthearea,butJujuaishandsdownthefavorite.Findtheminthecitycenter,inthekilometersaswellasinElBolsón,VillaLaAngosturaandSanMartín.
What year did the first car show up in Bariloche?
ThefirstcarmadeitswaytoBarilochein1910.ItwasaMercedesBenzandwasknownasthe“carofthegovernment”duetoitsfamouspassengers.AFordTwasbroughtinabitlater.
When did the Bariloche’s chocolate fascination begin?
ThefirstchocolatestorewascreatedonthecornerofMitreandBeschtedtin1928.TheSwisspioneer,CarlosTriberholn,isthegrandfatherofSouthAmerica’sbestchocolate.
Bariloche, Argentina SanCarlosdeBariloche isArgentina’sgateway toPatagonia.Thecity’snameoriginatedfromatypoonaletteraddressingamajorEnglishsettleroftheareaasSanCarlosinsteadofDonCarlos.Despitetheerror,thenamestuck.Thecitycenterisaneclecticmixofshopping,delectablechocolatestores,accommodationforeverybudget,livelybarsandpackeddanceclubs.Beyondthecenter,you’llcatchviewsrankedbyNationalGeographicassomeofthe‘worlds’best.’Feastyoureyesonthehand-carvedlogandstonearchitectureandthelakeandmountainsbeyondit. Trailheads to the area’smain attraction,ParqueNacionalNahuelHuapi,areeasilyaccessible.Createdin1934,theParkboastsruggedmountains,
suchasMountTronador,flourishingValdivianrainforestsandthewide-open,windblown steppe. Fromday hikes to expeditions, visitors can enjoy everystyle of mountaineering and trekking is available.The single tracks lead tomannedhuts offeringbeds, hotmeals and, sometimes, home-brewedbeers.CheckwithClubAndinoformaps,trailconditionsandotherinquiries. BarilocheisalsohometoSouthAmerica’slargestskiarea,Catedral.Asmallvillageinitself,Catedraloffersover30chairlifts,120kilometers(74miles) of groomed runs and 1,200hectares (2,965 acres) of skiable terrain.Catedral’s base area is also a summer activity centerwithmountainbiking,hikingandoutdoorconcerts.
POPULATION:150,000
WHAT’SGROOVY:ParqueMunicipalLlao
Llao,eXtremoSur(Morales765)forkayaking,
CarolJones(M.Victoria5600)forguided
horsetours
JUSTINCASE:101(police),100(fire),
107(ambulance)
questions & answers
October.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
22
By Shanie Matthews
Bariloche is aland with many faces.It is a city of 150,000.Most Argentines visit
Bariloche as a rite of passage after high schoolgraduation.Themajorityofitsgeographyisoccupiedbyprotectednationalforest.Thethrivingparksareinterlacedwithmanicuredtrailsleadingtoinvitingmountainhuts.Bariloche’schocolateandhomemadebeerisequivalenttoGermany’sexcellentcreations.Theprevalent logand stonearchitecture is a localhandcraftedspecialty.And,crazyenough,Barilocheservedas refuge forbothNazi soldiers and JewishsurvivorsofWWII. The city is a mixture of active mainstreets, tasty restaurants, energetic bars, livelynightclubs and every type of accommodation. Beyondelcentro,thecityhugsthesoutherncoastofLakeNahuel Huapi, dispersing out into suburban andrural villages. Although the intense beauty andworthytrailsoftheareaarefoundoutsideoftown,thoselookingtobeclosetobarsandnightlifeshouldstayinstumblingdistancefromthehustleandbustleofthecitycenter. Accommodation in Bariloche rangesfrominternationalhostelsinthemiddleofthecityto the award-winning Hotel Llao Llao, outside oftown.Thehosteloptionsarenumerous.Theyrangeinpriceandcleanlinessfrombottomofthebarreltodecentrooms.Mostofthehosteriasandhostelsareopentolongerstays,especiallyifonlyforamonthortwoandthetimeperiodisduringslowseason.Thequietertimesofyear,knownasshoulderseasons,areOctobertoChristmasandmid-MarchtillJune.Thehostelsandhosteriasrangeinprice,startingaround$20anight.Itisbesttocontactvariousplacespriortoarrivingandlettingthemknowwhattimeperiodyou’rethinkingabout.Manyplacesofferadiscountif they’re informed of your plan ahead of time. Ifstaying inaprivaterental ismoreyourcupof tea,check out www.welcomeargentina.com or www.ruta0.com with long lists of possibilities for yourhome away fromhome.Apartments and rooms inthecitycentercanbedifficulttofindduringhighseason,soplanahead. The city’s main shopping district islocated on the avenues of Bartolomé Mitre andPeritoMoreno.MitrestartsoffatCentroCivico,aclassic log and stone building, built by the famedarchitect Alejandro Bustillo who constructedmany of the older Bariloche buildings.The streetcontinuesbeyondthemainplaza,linedwithshopsfilledwithchocolate,knickknacks,sweaters,T-shirts,handicrafts and a few“fast food” dining options.Bariloche isknownfor itschocolateand the localfavorite,Mamushka,islocatedonMitre.Anoutdoorartandcraftsfairislocatedinthecitysquare,kiddy-cornerfromCentroCivico.Thefairoperatesyear-roundexceptforMondaysandbadweatherdays. One block up and parallel to Mitre isPerito Moreno and San Martín. The street callsitself by both names, the two being split by theYPF gas station and Morales street. It’s home to
Bar-iloche... not Bear-iloche.
the most popular tourist bar in town,Wilkinney(594SanMartín),whichisalsothecity’sbestplacefor Argentine folk music.You’ll also find one ofBariloche’s movie theaters here. (The MorenobranchislocatedleftoftheYPFgasstation,theotherisinsideShopping,themallcomplexonO’Nelli). BelowMitreablock,onJuanManueldeRosas,isasmall,indooriceskatingrinklocatedaboveapopularlivemusicvenue,PuertoRock.Therinkis locateddirectlyontheshoresofHuapi,offeringspectacularviews.PuertoRockisslowlybecomingfilled with well-knownArgentine musicians, withfrequentweekendconcerts. Bariloche also hosts several educational
and cultural museums, with a few in the citycenter,thekilometers,andColoniaSuiza(thelittleSwisscolony locatedoffofCircuitoChico).Fromchocolate to Mapuche Indians, from trout to thegaucho’slife,northernPatagonia’shistoryiscovered.Themajorityofthemuseumsaresmallmom&popoperations.Others,liketheMuseodeChocolate,arelargebuildingsthatencompassanentirefactory. Dining options also abound. Somehigher-end restaurants are located outside of thecenter, in the kilometers of Bustillo. Some of therestaurantswithinthetouristshoppingareaofMitreareprettybasicandarenotthecity’sbestchoices. Argentina is known for its beef, and
Barilochehasoneofthebestparrillas(bbqrestaurant)inthecountry:ElBolichedeAlberto(Villegas347,Ph:431433).Albertoisactuallyaseriesofrestaurants,both in thecenter andout in thekilometers.Therestaurant has been around for over 30 years.Thelocal familywhoowns it still interactwithguests.Dependingonwhoyouask,theparrillalocatedatkilometer8hasbettercutsofbeef,butbothservefantasticmeals.Alberto offers the full spectrumoftheArgentine asado.The bife de lomo, ordered apunto, is highly recommended.The portions arehealthyandservedfamilystyle.Duringhighseason,expecthugelinesduringnormalArgentinedinnerhours(21:00onward).Albertoalsohasaclusterofpastarestaurantsinandaroundtown. Ifyouarelookingforaromantic,uniquedining experience with a little Indian fusion, tryNaan (Campichuelo 568, Ph: 42 1785). Locatedwithinaprivatehome,thefamilyhaschangedtheirlivingroom,withanexpansiveviewofthecity,intoagourmetdiningexperiencewithasmallnumberof tables.The ambiance is elegant and perfect forendearing couples or double dates. Reservationsrequired. RestaurantVirtuosoyTarquinoshouldbeputonyourlistfortworeasons.First,thebuilding’slogandstonehand-craftsmanshipisoneofthetown’sbestexamplesofarchitecturalart,withahobbit-likearcheddoorwayandahand-carvedwoodenteapotasthedoorhandleandtwotreesgrowingthroughthemiddleofthediningarea.Second,theyhavethemostdiverseandtastysaladbarintown.Themenualsoincludesawiderangeofparrillachoices,pastasandGermandishes. (Located at24deSeptiembreandSaavedra,Ph:434774.) Barilochenightlifeishoppinginthecitycenter.ThecombinationofthousandsofArgentineyouth celebrating graduation and a multitude ofinternational travelers creates a city ready to havea good time. It’s a fun and crazy mix that oftenleads to hilarious conversations involving multiplelanguages. Thelargedanceclubsaremainlylocatedon the road parallel to the lake, Juan Manuel deRosas,eachofferingtheirownatmosphere.Thefivelarge discos (Grisu, Cerebral, Roket, By Pass andGenux)rotateonwhatagegrouptheyarehosting.Thedoormanwill letyouknow ifyourpeers areinsideorcongregatingatthediscodownthestreet.Therearealsosmallerbarsandnightspots, liketheRoxy,RoxburyandElSueño,onparallelingstreets,EspañaandSanMartín,locatedoneandtwoblocksuphillfromthelake.Bereadytostayuplatewhenpartying Argentine-style.The real fun gets goingaround3a.m.andcontinuesonwaypastsunrise. ThenortherngatewaycitytoArgentina’sPatagonia is an active metropolis, with fun sportactivities, gourmet dining, boisterous nightlife andlotsofculturaloptions.Justdon’tforgettoventurebeyondthecluster-zoneofthecitycenterandintothekilometers,tocheckoutthetruebeautyofthisregion.
There are no bears here.
Bariloche’s cathedral, built in 1946, lies just south of Mitre. Opposite the cathedral is a huge erratic rock, carried there by a glacier in the last Ice Age.
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
23
museums“Francisco P. Moreno” Museum of PatagoniaOpenedbytheNationalParksservicein1940,thePatagoniamuseumislocatedontheeastsideoftheCentro Cívico. Its name is after theAndean andPatagonianexplorerMoreno,whodonatedmuchofthelandthatisnowParqueNacionalNahuelHuapi.Theareasnaturalsciences,ethnography,prehistory,and regional and local history are covered in themuseum.Thereisalsoalibraryandbookstore.Address:CentroCívico.Telephone:(02944)422309MondaytoSaturday10:00-13:00TuesdaytoFriday10:00-12:30&14:00-19:00“Rosendo Pascual” Geological and Paleontological MuseumLocation:BosquePetrificado367,VillaLosCoihues,LagoGutierrez,Bariloche.Telephone:(02944)467578Everyday09:30-12:30&15:00-20:00Otto Meiling MuseumLocation:CerroOttoTelephone:(02944)422266Everydayfrom10:00-12:00&15:00-20:00Salon Cultural de Usos Mutiples y Paseo de los Artesanos (Muti-use cultural hall and craftsdisplay)DisplayandsaleoflocalcraftsLocation:MorenoandVillegasstreets.Monday to Friday: 09:00-17:00; Saturday 10:00-13:00&17:00-20:00;Sundayafternoons.Casa Museo de los Viejos Colonos(Thehousemuseumoftheoldsettlers)Location:ColoniaSuizaTelephone:(02944)423379/448330Wednesdayfrom3:00p.m.to7:00p.m.SaturdayandSundayfrom10:00a.m.to7:00p.m.Cerro Otto Art GalleryDisplayofMichelangeloreplicas(originalsize)Location:MtOttoTelephone:(02944)441035Everyday10:00-18:30Indoor Feria Artesanal Municipal(localartandcraftfair)DisplayandsaleoflocalcraftsAddress:MorenoandVillegasstreets.Openeveryday,10:00-20:00La Casa del Acuarista(aquariumhouse)50aquariumswithPatagonianfish,trout,ornamentalandrarespecies.Address:GallardoandRolandostreet,1°floor.Telephone:(02944)423077/15604346MondaytoFriday10:00-13:00&16:00-21:00Saturday17:00-20:00.Centro de Salmonicultura (Salmon FarmingCenter)RoadtoMtCatedral(Kilometer11)Telephone:(02944)461021MondaytoFriday11:00-16:00Fenoglio Sacifia Museo de ChocolateBustillokm1Telephone:(02944)439204Factoryhours:Monday-Thursday11:00-15:00.Museum and chocolate shop hours: every day11:00-19:30.
Bariloche
Did You Know?
ElBolsónArtsandCraftsFair: LaFeriaElBolsón is a special tripthatallvisitorstotheregionshouldexperience.The town, inundated by hippies in the ‘60s,packsquitetheflower-powerpunch.Thecraftfair really brings folks out of the woodwork.Atanelevationofabout1,000feetaboveandtucked between the Andes to the west andsomedecentlysizedmountainstotheeast,ElBolsónhasitsownmicroclimate.Theweatherisperfectforthecultivationoffinefruits,andit’s a great getaway from Bariloche when itrains. On Tuesdays, Thursdays andSaturdays from around 11 a.m.-4 p.m., theyhost a big craft fair in the central plaza. Inadditiontoallsortsoffruitproducts,therearemany talented local artists making wood andleather products aswell asfine jewelry.Greatfoodandevenbetter locallybrewedbeeraddtothemix.Onpeakdaysinthesummer,therecanbeupwardsof300differentvendors.
The frosted mug and homemadebeer had to be a dream. I was six hours into thedense, flourishing forests of the PatagonianAndes.A wandering--yet perfectly manicured-- single-track trail led me to a beautiful, rustic log cabin.It was my sanctuary, restaurant and place ofentertainment for a few nights, until I decided itwas time to hike on to the nextAndean refuge. WelcometotherealityofthetrailcircuitsofnorthernPatagonia.The trail system, created inthemid1900s,flows throughmilesofuntouched,virgin bamboo forest. Glaciated mountains, thicktimberland and crystal clear rivers intensify thebeauty of the pristine playground.The paths areinterlinkedbyfullystockedandmannedhuts.Here’sthe lowdownonfivehikes in thevirgin forestsofParqueNacionaldeNahuelHuapi.
1. Refugio Frey to Refugio San Martín.
The grand daddy of them all, RefugioFreyissurroundedbyasurrealsetting.ThemountainsareruggedlikeababyChamonix,thedenseforestresemblesAlaska,andtherockclimbingandwinterbackcountrydescentsareworld-class.ThelaborioushiketothehutcaneitherbeginbychairliftfromtheCatedralskiareaorbytrail.Eitherismoreorlessafour-hourexcursion.Thelogandrockrefuge,builtin 1957, has the capacity for 40 people, includingmattressesandblankets.FromFreyyoucancontinueon through thick forests to Refugio San Martín,where emerald-green Lake Jakob awaits you.Thehut,built in1952, isoutfitted for30people. It’s afive-to-sevenhourhikebetweenthetwohuts,withan elevation gain of 3,000 feet.The hike out is afive-to-seven hour stroll, following the clear, bluewaterofRucacoRiver.
2. Refugio San Martín to Laguna Negra.
If your wanderlust is still strong, thencontinue to Refugio Italia, which is based out ofLagunaNegra.Thisisamoredifficulthike,requiringcompassworkandagility.Ittakesabout6-9hourstoconnectthetwohuts.You’llventurethroughdenseold-growth woods and the open steppe offeringclear views of the mountains and class-three rockclimbing.FromRefugioItaliait’sanotherfivehoursofeasyhikingbacktocivilization.
3. Refugio Lopez to Laguna Negra.
This popular trailhead tends to bebusy at the entrance and near the small kiosco,which incidentally has great choripan (breadwithchorizo).Thetrailstartswithasteepclimbofferingpanoramic viewsof theLakesDistrict.Walk threehourstoarrivetoapink-stucco,sixty-personrefuge.FromRefugioLopezitisafive-to-seven-hourhikeof medium difficulty to Refugio Italia, with anelevationgainof2,500feet.
4. Laguna Negra to Pampa Linda.
AnotheroptionfromRefugioItaliaistocontinue on toward the glaciated faces of MountTronador. This is considered one of the world’sprimehikingtrails,setwithinthegiganticAndesandcloseTronador’s immense icefields.Theexcursionisabout3-5days,anditendsinTronadorNationalParkatPampaLinda.Therearecampsitesalongtheway and a hotel in Pampa Linda.To attempt thisjourney, you should have camping and trekkingexperienceandknowhowtouseacompass.
5. Lago Mascardi to Laguna Llum.
Thiseasy,two-to-three-hourhikeclimbs
Top 5 Nahuel Huapi treks
about 500 vertical feet.The trailwanders throughrainforest-like terrain, full of Patagonian bambooandnativecypressandcoiguetrees.You’llvisitsoftsandbeaches,whichframetheemerald-greenwaterofLagoMascardi.The trail continues to a hiddenlagoon where it is said the forests are magical.AtLagunaLlum,you’llfindanabandonedhut,RefugioVivac.FromLagunaLlum,youcanalsocontinueontoPampaLindaat thebaseofMountTronador.Atentisvitalforthisexcursion. Thereareafewdifferentwaystolocateinformation on these and other hikes, like ClubAndino Bariloche, an organization created outof the mantra to interact, enjoy and spread theknowledgeofthemountainshasofficesthroughoutArgentina.Theyoffermapsandinformationaboutthe various trails, access and current conditions.ThemainBarilochehubisanon-descriptbuildinglocatedinthecenteroftown,acrossthestreetfromtheMorenoYPFgasstation.Lookforagreensignthat says‘InformacióndeMontaña.’Anotherplacefor thebestmaps and local guidebooks is a littlefishbowl of a place on the corner ofVillegas andMoreno.There are two different book series thatcovertheBarilocheLakesregion:InfoTrekkingdelaPatagoniaandGuíaSendasyBosques.TheNahuelHuapieditionsofbothbooksaremust-haves. Hiking through theworld’s longest andsecond highest mountain range is a life changingwaytogetintouchwithnature.Barilochegivesthe
adventurousmanychoicestolosethemselvesintheantiqueforestsandtoweringgranitemountains.Andwith so many hiking choices, you’re sure to findyourownpieceofparadise.
Bariloche’s old growth forests
Refugio to Refugio
October.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
24
Wood Fire Grilled Steaks Chilean Wines
Fresia 135a Pucon, Chile
El Barroso
What are the local indigenous people called?
Mapuche,andtheyareveryproudoftheirheritage.TheyreallygavetheSpanisharunfortheirmoneybackintheday.
Are there hostels close to the bus station?
Youcan’tpitchacatwithouthittingahostelinPucón.
What if I need a doctor or dentist?
PucónhasasmallhospitalwithanX-raymachine,andthereareafewdentiststochoosefrom.AnythingseriousistreatedinTemuco,aboutanhourandahalfawaybycar.
Is there a nice beach on the lake to relax and swim?
Justafewblocksfromthecenter,youcansoakupalltheUVyouwant,justdon’tforgettheSPF!
Is there a golf course nearby?
Thereisanine-holecourseonthepeninsula,andyoucanrentasetofclubsintown.
Is there a night life in Pucón?
Absolutely,therearenumerousbarspackedwithpeoplefromallovertheworldallsummerandduringtheheightoftheskiseason.
Can I rent gear in town?
Mostoutfittershaveeverythingyouneedfortheactivityyouwanttoparticipatein,andthegearisusuallyincluded.
What is the winter like?
Superchill.It’sagreatsceneforwintersportswithfewercrowds,andit’ssuchanincredibleexperiencetoskiorboardonanactivevolcano.
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Plenty,withsomegreatviewsofthevolcano,justaskaroundaboutwheretogo.
When can I climb the Villarrica Volcano?
Allyearround,butwinteristhebesttimeifyouwantsmallercrowds.
Is the volcano active?
Youbet,it’ssmoking24-7,notunlikesomepeopleweknow,butthatisagoodthing.Itmeansthevolcanoisventing.Ifitstopssmoking,thenit’stimetostartworrying.
When was the last time it erupted?
In1984,butthatwasnothingmajor.Thetimebeforethatwas1974,and24peoplewerekilled.
Can I get a good map of the trails in Villarrica National Park?
Therearemapsintownforjustafewbucks.CheckthecornerofO’HigginsandAnsorena.
Is there an entrance fee to the Park?
Yep,it’sabout$8bucks.
Do I need a permit to camp in the Park?
No,there’snocampingfee,butit’srestrictedaroundthevolcano.Remember,itisanactivevolcano!
Is transportation to the trailheads available?
Ifyouuseaguide,tranportationisincluded,buttaxiscangetyouthere,too.It’sabout$5USDtogobytaxitotheparkentrance.
Can I drink the water in the Park without treating it?
Yep!Enjoytheexperience.
Is there a search and rescue outfit in the area?
Incaseofabackcountryemergency,contacttheCarbiñerosdeChile.Theywillorganizethe50ormoreguides,wholiveinPucónandarealwaysreadytolendahandtotheirfellowoutdoorenthusiasts.
Where is the best white water rafting?
Therearethreeruns,themostexcitingbeingtheupperRíoTrancura,withclassIIIandIVrapids,dependingonthetimeoftheseason.ThelowerTrancuraistamerbutstillclassII-IIIinmostplaces.YoucanalsodoalongertripofacoupledaysonBíoBíothroughvariouscompaniesintown.
When’s the best time to go rafting?
Italldependsontheweatherandamountofrainfall,butgenerallyspeaking,theseasonisfromlateSeptembertoearlyApril.FortheupperTrancura,you’llhavetowaittillaroundDecember.Andrememberduringtheheightoftheseason(aboutDecember-February),therapidscangetprettycrowded.
What else can I do around here?
AsidefromvisitingtheVolcanoandrafting,youcanenjoytheamazingsceneryonhorseback,paragliding,orparachuting.Flyfishingisalsoverypopularhere,andyoucanbookboatfishingtours.Keepinmindthatallfishingiscatchandrelease.
Museo MapuceCapitaniade Puerto
Iglesia ParroquialSanta Cruz
IglesiaJesus deNazaret
Pucon Centro
MonasterioSanta Clara
Cemetario
HospitalSan Francisco
Playa Grande
Calle Peatonal
Ramon Quezada
La P
oza
L a g o Vi l l a r r i c a
Pedro de Valdivia
Calle Holzapiel
Geronimo de Alderete
General Basilio Unutia
Brasil
Uruguay
Eschoroenle
L.A. Ulloa
Zacarias G
Ramon Guinez
Av L
as A
rauc
aria
s
Ara
uco
Palg
uin
Ans
cren
a
Fres
ia
Linc
oyan
Caup
olic
anCostanera
Roberto G
eiss
Colombia
Av Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins
Colo
Col
o
Who should I be tipping here?
Yourwaiterwouldappreciatea10%tip,ifyou’rehappywiththeservice.Thekidwhobagsyourgroceriesatthemarketworkssolelyontips.Anddon’tforgettotipyourguideifyouhaveenjoyedaparticularlygoodexcursion.Mosttaxiswouldbehappytoacceptanysmallchangeleftoverfromthetransactionaswell.
Where is the closest airport?
DuringJanuaryandFebruary,LanandSkyAirlinesflydirecttothePucónairport.Bookingonlinehasbeenproblematicinthepast,especiallywithaforeigncreditcard.You’rebetteroffbookingyourflightlocallyatoneofthecarriers’offices.
Alternatively,youcanflytoandfromtheinternationalairportinTemuco,abouttwohoursawayfromPucón,bybus.
What options are there for public transport?
BusesbetweenthenearbytownofVillarricaandPucónrunevery15minutesthroughBusesJac.BusesfromPuertoMonttrunfourtimesaday,andfromTemuco,everyhalfhour.Taxisandcolectivosareavailableallovertown.But,ifyouwanttogetoffthebeatenpathorhaveatimeconstraintandwanttoseesomemoreinlesstime,rentacar.ThereareacoupleofcarrentaloptionsonColoColoStreet.Youcanalsorentabikeforabout10bucksaday.
questions & answers
Pucón, Chile Pucón, a quaint townbuilt in the style of aGermanvillage, hassomethingforeveryone,fromthethrillseekingadrenalinejunkietothecouplelookingforaromanticgetaway.Alongwiththingstoseeanddo,you’llfindaccommodationforallbudgets,buthoponlineandbookearly,becausemostplacesfillupfastduringthesummermonths. Pucón explodes with life during the summer months (October-March),whensunnydays,greenforestsandblueskies,alongwiththealways-activeVillarricaVolcanolurethemasses.Whetheryouarelookingforaguidedascentofthevolcano,trekkingintheVillarricaNationalPark,raftingorkayak-ingtheClassIIIandIVrapidsoftheTrancuraRiver,oranafternoonhorse-
backridingormountainbiking,you’llgetyourfillofthrills. Visit theMapucheMuseumonCaupolicán and learn about theculture of the indigenuos people.Take a cruise onVillarricaLake aboard asteam-poweredvessel,or just relaxononeof themanyblack sandbeaches.Shop for locally made handicrafts, and dine in one of more than 50 localrestaurants,beforeendingthedaywithalongsoakinoneofthegeothermalpools.Pucónalsohasagreatnightlifeandisrelativelycrime-free.Thewell-litstreetsbeckonnightowlstohitthetownafterdarktodancethenightaway,ortrytheirluckatthecrapstablesinthecasino.
POPULATION:21,000FOUNDED:1883WHAT’SGROOVY:Hotsprings,lotstochoosefromonthemaindrag.JUSTINCASE:131(ambulance),132(fire),133(police)
Good People, Handmade Organic Food and
Real Coffee
organic food, wine and real italian coffee
O’Higgins 311, Local 5 Pucón • [email protected]
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
25Pucón
Eating properly while on the trail will not only keep your energy up, but also keep the team happy and postive. Planning the amounts and types of food is one of the biggest challenges of any backcountry trip. If you’re traveling in a group, find out if anybody has any food restrictions (vegetarians, food allergies?). Discuss the menu before you head to the store. Make a day-by-day list of meals and snacks, complete with ingredients, for the exact amount of people in your group. Breakdown how many scoops of oatmeal you’ll need, the number of dry soup packets and and chocolate bars. Try not to plan for too much food. If you come home with enough grub to last you another day or two, it means you carried an extra 1-2 kilos in your pack. It’s best to shoot for 3,000 calories per day. Light eaters can get away with less (maybe 2,500) where a big eater might want to bump it up to around 3,500. Dehydrated meals are all the rave, but they often taste like cardboard. Sure, they might save some weight in your pack, but they take away some of the fun of preparing meals at camp. If you can cook it at home, there is a way to cook it on the trail. Prepping spices and cut veggies at home also makes packing and consumption easier. After the big meal shop, remove all packaging and excess garbage that you won’t need on the trail. This step will make more space in your pack and leave you with less to carry out later. Repack all your food into doubled and labeled, resealable plastic bags. Consider it a fun challenge to eat well and pack light. When packing your tools for cooking, try to not bring any piece of gear that only serves one purpose. Don’t bring a cutting board, for example. Something like the lid to your cooking pot can double as a cutting surface.
PlAnninG meAls for The TrAil
Trekking and climbing through boulder fields, talus and scree means dealing with possible rockfall or other hazards. In such areas, make intentional, confident steps, and keep your balance and agility in tact. Always be aware of others trekking beneath you, in the fall line. Walk side by side, instead of in a single file line, to reduce the chances of knocking a rock loose and hitting a trekker below. In confined areas or gullies, where spreading out isn’t possible, walk directly behind the person in front of you, so loose rocks don’t have the time or distance to build speed before they hit someone. Traveling up gulleys one-by-one to safety zones, out of the way of possible rockfall, is another option. Should you ever rap a rock loose, of any size, yell “ROCK!” so others can take cover or move out of the way. Discuss this system with your group in advance. Typically, people’s first reaction to “ROCK!” is to raise their heads up to see what’s going on. A good way to get your teeth knocked out. The proper response is to look Hawaii and burrow your head downward, using your backpack to protect your back, neck and head. Climb with your eyes. Take moments to pause and plan your next step, before you take it. Use you hands for balance. Don’t be afraid to work your way up a boulder field scrambling with all four limbs. Walk on the tops of large, stable boulders, when you can. It’s easier on the knees and gives you the best vantage point to plan your next steps. Do not walk in loose sand under boulders. Doing so can shift the balance of the huge rocks and cause them to roll onto you.
roCkfAll, sCree& Boulder fields
Before undertaking a multi-day trek consider this: new socks, old shoes. It’s not a good time to see if those new shoes work. SOCKS: It’s amazing how important sock selection is when engaged in an long day hike or multi-day trek. The coarse threads of hiking socks eventually begin to dig into your skin causing discomfort and blisters. Avoid this by wearing a thin nylon liner sock as a first layer. Any pair of light socks will do in a pinch. Bring an extra pair for replacement half way. There’s something refreshing about putting on a pair of socks half-way through a killer hike. Waterproof socks can do more damage than good. These unbreathable socks will hold all the sweat and moisture against your skin, giving you blisters and hot spots. SHOES: The success and enjoyment of a serious trek is directly related to your shoe selection. Choose light, flexible shoes over stiff, heavy hiking boots. Every pound of shoe is the equivalent to carrying 7-9 pounds on your back. Minimize shoe weight by selecting a cross-trainer with ankle support, a trail-running shoe, or one of the lighter hiking shoes that are readily available. When you go shopping for “hiking” shoes, you’ll likely be encouraged to buy something with “great ankle support” and a steel shank so you won’t “feel the rocks.” This makes sense if you’re planning to carry a 60-pound pack and trekking through scree (small rocks) or other rugged terrain. However, if you’re staying on established trails, lighter, more flexible shoes are fine.
soCks & shoes
On the trail it’s important to have a plan for that special time of the month. A change in environment, physical exercise and the stresses attached to these things can sometimes lead to changes in a woman’s cycle, including early or late cycle start, cessation or a heavier flow. While there is no permanent worry in either case, it’s a good idea to be prepared. Experienced female guides typically carry extra sanitary material, just in case. In general carrying one-third more tampons or pads is a safe bet, even if you’re not expecting your cycle to come while you’re in the woods. For disposal, the same rules of waste apply: Pack it in. Pack it out. Do not bury tampons or pads! Aside from the fact that they take a long time to biodegrade, they also present a fire hazard if they become unburied. A doubled, resealable plastic bag works well. Place this bag system into a small stuff sack to keep it private. If you’re worried about smell, try crushing a regular aspirin and sprinkling it into the bag. As far as peeing in the woods is concerned, men may not need to worry about toilet paper, but women take such things into consideration. Carrying a constant supply of toilet paper, always ready and handy, can be inconvenient. Plus, it’s more weight to carry. Consider reusing a bandana or special cloth as a pee rag. It may sound gross, but when it will dry out when you lay it in the sun or tie to the back of your rucksack on a warm day. The rag will be sterilized and dry enough to reuse until you get it to camp for a wash.
feminine hyGiene
The Mapuche people are theindigenous inhabitants of central and southernChileandsouthernArgentina.Theyareknownfortheir closeness to the land and its resources.TheverymeaningofMapucheis“peopleoftheland,”whichreallysaysalotaboutwhotheyareandwhattheybelievein.Theyareproudoftheirtraditions,manyofwhichtheystillpracticetoday. There is one tradition, trafkintü,however that stands out among the others forits simple beauty and usefulness. Trafkintü wasbornefromnecessityintheMapuchecultureandbasically means to share or exchange.This canmeantoexchangenews,ideas,knowledge,animalsor anything else of use. Each spring a ceremonyis held to give thanks to the sun, the earth andwaterforthelifetheynourishonthisplanet.TheMapuchecommunitygettogetherandsharewhatseeds and plants they have with others, down toadviceonhowtocarefortheplants,sothattheymaygrowandbenefitthecommunityasawhole. Imagine, if you will, a world wheresharingandcooperationwasthenormratherthan
competing with one another to get ahead. Sure,great things have come about from competitionandthedrivetomakeabettermousetrap.Perhaps,though,wecanfindahealthybalancebetweenthetwo.Ratherthanbuyingmoreandmoreitemswemightonlyuseonce,borrowfromyourneighborand vice versa. Rather than competing with themythicalJoneses,sharewhatyouhavewiththem.Youmayjustfindthatthequalityoflifeimprovesabitforbothparties. We could learn a lot from a culturethatwasconsideredbytheconqueringSpanishtobe uncivilized and lacking in refinement.WhilevisitingPucónandenjoyingallthatthisareahastooffer,takealittletimetolearnabouttheoriginalinhabitants of this enchanting part of Chile.Talktothelocalartisanssellingtheirhandcraftsinandaround town. If you get to know a little aboutthem, you may find you share a lot in commonwiththem.VisittheMapucheMuseumlocatedintheHotelAraucanianon the roadentering townfromVillarica, Caupolicán 243. It all starts withyou.
TrafkintüA Mapuche Tradition
Chile’s street smarts by Thomas S Daly
AsyounavigatethevariousChileancitieswithyourtrustystreetmaps,youmaywonderwhymostofthestreetnamesaresurnamesandwhothesepeoplewere?PastChileanpresidents inhabit someofthenames,butthestreetsalsohonorpeopleandplaceswith great significance in the area’s historicdevelopment. Here are a few common streetnames...• LADRILLEROS.JuanLadrilleroswasaSpanishsailor who, in 1557, was sent by the Spanishgovernment to find a sea exit from the MagellanStraits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food,energyandthe lossofmanymen,hedecidedthatthe voyage into the body of water that surroundsPuertoNataleswouldbetheirlasthopeinreachingtheirgoal. (Hence thenameÚltimaEsperanza,orLast Hope. Incidentally the Spanish governmentkeptthisblunderasecretforover300years!• O´HIGGINS. The Liberator BernardoO’Higgins,togetherwithJosédeSanMartín,crossedfrom Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army andfinally drove out the Spanish.He restoredChile’sindependenceandbecameChile’sfirstPresidentin1818.• BLANCO ENCALADA. ThefirstCommanderoftheChileanNavy,ManuelBlancoEncaladawasborninBuenosAires(1790),butlaterchosethelandofhisChileanmotherashishome.Agreatpoliticalfigure,hewasPresidentoftheRepublicforameretwomonthsin1826.• BULNES. Manuel Bulnes’ military victoryover theBolivian-Peruvianconfederation in1839,securedhispersonalvictoryofbecomingPresidentoftheRepublic(1841-1851).• ARTURO PRATT. A valiant naval captainwhodiedattheBattleofIquique(1879),whenheboarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (The Huascar),accompaniedbyonlyonesergeant.• ESMERALDA. The name of Captain ArturoPratt’sshipintheBattleofIquique. • TOMAS ROGERS. Juan Tomas Rogers, anEnglishCaptain serving in theChileanNavy,wasthefirstvisitortoarriveatPeritoMorenoGlacier.Onarrival,henameditFranciscoGomazinhonoroftheexpedition.ManyyearslatertheArgentineansrenameditinhonorofPeritoFranciscoMoreno,an
Argentinehydrographer.• BAQUEDANO. General Manuel BaquedanodefeatedPeruat theBattleofLosAngeles (March1880),capturedArica(May1880),andlatercapturedLima(Jan1881).• CHORRILLOS. Thesiteof thefirstbattle inthewavetotakeLima,Peru(Jan1881).• BALMACEDA. José Balmaceda, leader of aliberalanticlericalgroup,preventedArgentinafromenteringthewarofthePacificin1878.AsPresidentof the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a widereformprogram,whichledtocivilwar.HelaterfledtoArgentinawherehecommittedsuicide.• EBERHARD.CaptainHermannEberhardwasanexplorerandfirstsettleroftheProvinceofÚltimaEsperanzainChile.HenamedthehillthatoverlooksPuertoNatalesafterhisfirstdaughter,Dorotea.LagoSofíaisnamedafterhisseconddaughter.In1892,itwasactuallyoneofhisworkerswhodiscoveredthefamousMilodonCave,wheretheremainsofvariousprehistoric animals were found, including saber-toothedtigers,camels,deerandofcoursethegiantslothmilodon.Today,theEberhardfamilystillliveson their estancia at Puerto Consuelo, just outsidePuertoNatales.• KRUGER. Ricardo Kruger was a governmentofficial posted at Puerto Consuelo when theArgentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in1896 to claim the area in the nameofArgentina.Krugerdeclinedto lowertheChileanflagandtheArgentineans left without fuss. Due to this eventtheChileangovernmentpopulatedPuertoPrattasawarningstationforfutureattemptsbytheArgentinenavy.• PILOTO PARDO. Captain Luis Pardo wasa sailorwho riskedhis life, and thoseof hismen,to rescue the 22 castaways from the Endurance(ShackletonExpedition1915-16).Histugboat“TheYelcho,”hadnodoublehull,noheating,noelectriclight andno radio.Despite thecourageous actsofPardo and his crew, Shackleton only mentionedPardo’s nameonce inhis 386-pagebook-- in thepreface!• PEDRO MONTT.SonofthePresidentManuelMonttTowers.HehimselfbecamePresidentoftheRepublicbetween1906-1910.
by Anthony Riggs
October.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
26
La Quebra
daAconcagua
Imperial
Mirador
Maipo M
Itala
Bio-Bio
Tronador
Rosario
Puerto Varas
L a g o L l a n q u i h u e
Baqu
enda
no
San Ig
nacio
Hospita
l
Purisim
a
Florid
a
A.Pr
at
Esta
cion
Rick
e
Turis
mo
San Bernard
o
San Francisco
San Pedro
Sta Rosa
Sta R
osa
Decher
Klenner Certo Phillipi
Los Tiloa
Portales
MonteCalvario
San Jose
W.Martinez
GranadoDel Salvador
Del Salvador
SantiagoR.R. Rosa
A.Bello
ColónGarcía Moreno
A Ruta o Sur La Paz
A Puer
to M
ontt
A Ensenada
Av.V. Pérez Rosales
How do I get to Puerto Varas?
Ifyouchoosetofly,you’llneedtoflyintoPuertoMonttandthentakeabusfromtheairportintothecity.Fromhere,you’llgrababustoPuertoVaras.BusesleaveforPVeveryhour.FromPuertoNatales,youcantaketheNavimagshiptoPuertoMontt,cruisingthroughthefjords,northforfivedays.ThemosteconomicaloptiononNavimagisasharedcabin,whichwillcostyouabout$400USD.InPuertoMontt,you’llcatchoneofthebusestoPuertoVaras.
Where can I stay without breaking the bank?
Thereareahandfulofhostelsnearthecenteroftownandyou’llfindboardinghouseswithinwalkingdistanceofthecenter,offeringoptionssuchasmatrimonialroomsandroomsforgroupsofuptofivepeople.
How should I dress for the climate?
Inspringorsummer,bringalongsomelightclothingforgoodweather,butbesuretohaveawoolsweaterandrainparkafortheinevitablerainthatthisareaisfamousfor.Inwinter,bringeverythingyouhaveforcoldandwindyweather.
How do you pronounce the name of the lake?
ThelakeisLlanquihue,anditispronouncedas“Yawn-key-way.”
Will I have any problems with drinking water or food?
Ingeneral,thewatersupplyissafe,butbeuseyourbetterjudgment.InthePark,you’llbefine,butintownyoumightwanttoboilthewater.Ifyouare
notusedtoeatingalotofseafoodorshellfish,takeiteasyforthefirstfewdays.
What’s the nightlife like?
Therearesomehoppinglittlebarspackedwithpeoplefromallovertheworldallsummerandduringtheheightoftheskiseason.Nottomention,thecasinowhereyouwillhaveachancetopartwithallyourtravelmoney,orifyou’relucky,winenoughtopayforthewholetrip.
How is the fishing in this area?
Incredible,withabundantopportunities,fromlakestoriversandstreams,allteemingwithvariousspeciesoftrout,includingChileantroutandtwointroducedspecies:rainbowtroutandbrowntrout.
What do you call the enormous volcano on the other side of the lake?
ThatisOsorno(2,661m).Therearethreemorevolcanoes,alllocatedwithinVicentePerezRosalesNationalPark:PuntiagudoVolcano(2,490m),Picada(1,710m),andthebigdaddyofthemall,Tronador(3,491m).
Are there any good day hikes in the area?
Definitely.PasoDesolaciónTrail(12km),RincóndelOsornoTrail(5km),theSolitaryTrail(6km),andtheMargaritaLagoonTrail(8km),justtonameafew.
What else is there to do?
ThereisfishingintheEnsenada,Petrohué,andPeullasectors,swimmingintheEnsenadaandPetrohuésectors,skiinginthePicadasector,whereyouwillfind“LaBurbuja,”,mountaineeringinthePicadaandOsornovolcanosectors,trekkinginthePicada,Ensenada,andPeullasectors,wildlifeobservationinallareasofthepark,andhorsebackridinginPeulla.
What kind of wildlife can I see in the park?
Thereareover100differentspeciesofbirdsandmorethan30differentspeciesofmammals,suchasthepudú(theworld’stiniestdeer),puma,greyfox,nutria(atypeofsemi-aquaticotter),andtwoChileanmarsupials:thecomadreja trompudaandthemonito del monte(mountainmonkey),whichisn’tamonkeyatall.
How can I get around without a car?
InPuertoVaras,attheintersectionofSanBernardoandMartìnez,you’llfindminibusesthatgotoEnsenada,Petrohué,andLagoTodosLosSantoseverydayat09:15,11:00,14:00and16:00,withscheduledreturns.
Is Puerto Montt safe?
Forthemostpart,Pto.Monttisaquietcitywithfewincidentsofurbanviolence,butbesmartandleavethebling-blingathomeandusethebuddysystemwhenheadingouttoenjoythenightlife.
PuErto Varas
PuErto Montt
Hospedaje Carla Minte
Private bathroomsGerman breakfastCable TVCentral heatingWiFiMan spricht deutsch
••••••
Maipo 1010, Puerto Varas, ChilePhone: 65-232880
www.interpatagonia.com/carlaminte
Is it easy to change foreign currency?
Yes,mostbankswillchangedollarsand/oreurosandtherearemanyexchangeshopscalled“cambios”whereyoucanchangeyourforeigncurrency.
Can I use my travelers checks or ATM card?
Youbet.Travelerschecksareagoodwaytogoandcanbecashedatallthebanks.ATMcardsareanotheroption,sincemostbankshaveamachineontheCirrusnetworkandmakethecurrencyexchangeforyouautomatically.
What times of the day are the shops and restaurants open?
MostshopsareopenMonday-Fridayfrom09:00to13:30andthencloseforlunchuntilabout15:00,andthenremainopenagainuntilaround19:00.Saturdays,from09:00to13:00.BanksareopenMonday-Friday,09:00to14:00.
Where can I buy handicrafts?
About2km.fromthecitycenter,youwillfindCaletadeAngelmo,hometoavarietyofhandmadeitems,includingwoolsweaters,alpacaclothing,andleatheritems.
Can I take a tour by boat?
Sure,youcanvisitanislandnaturepreserveintheareaofCaletadeAngelmo.JustaskaroundneartheNavimagdockfortimesandprices.
Where can I get the best seafood?
You’llfindavarietyofrestaurantsintheareaofCaletadeAngelmowithgreatseafoodselectionsatreasonableprices.
Is it customary to tip?
InChile,ingeneral,itiscustomarytotip10%ofthetotalofthebillatrestaurants.Whenusingataxiitisokaytoleavethesmallchange.
What about calling abroad or home?
Therearecallcentersthroughoutthecitywheretheyhaveinternetandthecityhasapublicphonenetworkthatenablesyoutomakelocalandinternationalphonecallswithcoinsandspecialphonecards.Also,mosthotels,forasurcharge,willletyoumakeinternationalcalls.
Who do I contact in case of an emergency?YoucanfindthepolicestationatGuillermoGallardo519,ordial133.Tocallanambulance,dial131.
questions & answers
Puerto Varas, Chile EasilyreachedfromPuertoMonttbylocalbusortaxi,PuertoVaraswasfoundedbyGermansettlersinthe1800s.ThisinfluencecanbeseenineverythingfromtheGermanClubinthecenter,thetown’sarchitecture,andtheubiquitouskuchen.ManylocalsspeakGermanasasecondlanguage. The tourist center (onLakeLlanquihuenear theplaza) isopenyear round, and cangive adviceon a rangeof activities, fromhorsebackridingorguidedclimbsorskitripsupOsornotowhitewaterraftingorkayaking.ConsiderahikeupCerroPhilippi,andenjoythe
iews.OrtakethelocalbustoFrutillar,30kmaway,andvisittheTeatrodelLago,whichhousesartexhibitsand,insummer,liveconcertsandtheater. StopbyoneofthelocalguideservicesforinfoontrekkinginCóchamoValley,(nicknamedLittleYosemite).Rentabikeandexploretheareaforanafternoon.VisitVicentePerezRosalesNP,andcheckoutthewaterfalls.Attheendofyourdays,relaxandwatchthesunset,whileeatingdinnerorsippingadrinkatoneoftheseveral lakesiderestaurantsorbars.
POPULATION:22,500FOUNDED:1854WHAT’SGROOVY:Hiking&ClimbinginCóchamoValleyJUSTINCASE:131(ambulance),132(fire),133(police)
w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
27Puerto Varas
Santiago
www.andeshostel.com (56-2) 632 9990 - 632 9173
Chiloé es uno de los lugares másinteresantes para visitar en la Región de LosLagos, por sus bellos paisajes, coloridas ypintorescasciudades,yespecialmenteporlafuerzaysingularidaddesucultura,únicaporelcarácterdeisla,quedealgunamaneralamantienealejadadeinfluenciasforáneas. En esta ocasión, la recomendación esvisitar la Isla en bicicleta y recorrer Castro, unadelasciudadesmásantiguasdeChile,yelParqueNacionalChiloé,ubicadoenelsectordeCucao,a60kilómetrosde la ciudad, en la costa abiertahaciaelOcéanoPacífico.Elviajequerelatamosacátieneunaduraciónde3días,ycomienzaenPuertoVaras,puntodepartidayorganizacióndetodaslasactividadesinteresantesdelaregión. Enlamañanadelprimerdía,cargamoslas bicicletas en nuestro transporte, y nos vamosdirectoaCastro,paraevitarpedalearenlaprimeraparte del camino, que tiene bastante tráfico,camionesprincipalmente. Una vez en la isla, luego de cruzar elcanal de Chacao en un ferry de 45 minutos deduración, la opción es ir a Castro y recorrer enlas bicicletas los mejores lugares de la ciudad,comolosmercados,museos,palafitos,suiglesiaydisfrutardelossaboresdelaislaenalgunadelascocineríasdellugar. Para el alojamiento, la recomendacióneselnuevoHostalPalafito,ubicadoenlazonade
En bicicleta por Castro y Parque Nacional Chiloé
Gamboa. Funciona en un palafito tradicional, elcualfuerestauradoyadecuadopararecibirgente,loquerepresentaunaexperienciainolvidable,yaqueserecreayseviveunacostumbreancestraldeestelugar.Excelentevistadelabahía. Para el día siguiente, nos subimos ala bicicleta temprano en la mañana y tomamosdirecciónsurporlaruta5.AlasalidadeCastro,sepuedevisitarlaiglesiadeNercón. A los 20 kilómetros y a la altura delpueblodeChonchi,estáeldesvíohaciaCucaoyelOcéanoPacífico.Enelcamino,loslagosHullincoyCucaoentreganunpaisajedeensueño. Luegode38kilómetros, llegamos a laentradaalParqueNacional,ubicadajuntoalmar.Lamajestuosidaddellugarnosinvitaaquedarnos,y la opción para pasar la noche es el ParadorDarwin, conunexcelente servicioyunacocinaparanoolvidar.Tambiénhayopcióndecampingen los sectores del Parque Chanquin y Cole-Cole. Para lamañanadel terceryúltimodíadeesteviaje,visitamoslosprincipalessenderosyplayasdelParque,lasqueaunmantienenlaimagendelChiloéprofundo,conbosquesantiguos,grancantidaddeavifaunay laculturachilotasiemprepresenteencadadetalle. Si el tiempo lo permite, está laposibilidad de visitar la comunidad indígena deQuilque,ubicadaenestesectoryalaquepodemosaccederpreviaconsultaconlosloncosojefesde
lacomunidad.EnestelugarsepuederealizarunacaminataporunarutacompletamentenuevadelParque,alaquellegamosluegodecruzarelLagoCucao.Finalmente y luego de disfrutar los últimosmomentosenelParqueNacional,está laopciónde regresar a PuertoVaras ese mismo día, o siprefieres puedes continuar en Chiloé y seguirconociendolossecretosymitosdelaIsla.
Photos and text by Ernesto Palm Del Curto
ristorante italiano
Puerto Montt, ChileCalle Rengifo 815 • (65) 282812 Puerto Varas, ChileAv. Costanera, Puerto Chico • (65) 310583 www.dalessandro.cl
FIND MORE THAN A GOOD HOSTEL!
Great location - tips & travel infoAirport service – internet Wi-fi - kitchen facilities
Phone/fax: 65-232044 mobile: (9)[email protected] www.compassdelsur.cl
klenner 467 Puerto Varas – lake district
Don´t forget to book in advance !* highly recommended during High Season *
Italian cuisine at the bottom of the world.
October.08w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
28
The view of Los Cuernos from the view point, above Campamento Italiano.Painting by Julieta Canepa
FindingtouristinformationonChile’smostSouthern town, PuertoWilliams, is not an easy job.EspeciallyinformationontheInternetisscarce.Thisisapity,sincePuertoWilliamsanditssurroundingshavemuchtoofferfornature-lovingtourists. Enviu,aChilean/DutchNGO,hascurrentlybeenworkingon improving the information supply.Throughaprojectdirectedtowardlocalentrepreneursinthetourismsector,Enviuhasfacilitatedthecreation
Sought after Isla Navarino infoby Marieke den Nijs
The new Patagonian Etnonatural Parkrecently opened to the public. Itsmain attractionis the sculptural representation of the indigenousMagellanpeoplesetagainstbeautifulnaturalscenes.The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45minutes and consists of nine displays in whichyou can see depictions of the first inhabitants ofthese lands:The Kaweskar,Yamanas,Aonikenk andSelknam.Inadditon,thereisasmallcaveinsidethepark,whichwasonceused as a refugebyhunters.On its walls you can see cave paintings of simpleshapesbutwithgreatsymbolicmeaningandpower.Manyofthesearegeometricaloutlines,animaltracks,human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animalfigures. Alongthepath,youcanfeelthesecretsofthe spirits in the air, and among the ancient treesof the wooded areas images of the steppe huntersofTierradelFuegocometomind,nomadicpeopleandtheaustralrivers. TheEtnonaturalParkisoutsideofPuertoNatalesneartheMilodoncaveatKm23.Theparkisopeneverydayduringtheweekandcosts$3.000perperson.
Cave paintings near Puerto NatalesEtno Natural Park
There are people that have spent yearsworking in the park and never saw a puma. Butthen therearealso thoseday tripperswho takeastrolls on Lago Grey’s beach, and suddenly comeeye to eye with a puma. But what to do if youactuallygettoseeapuma?
1. Most important, don’t run!The puma mightthinkyou’reajuicy(andeasytocatch)boxedlunchtogo.Withapuma, the slogan“act likeavictim,becomeavictim,”holdstrue.
2.Makeyourselflookbiggerandmoredangerousthanthepumainfrontofyou.Thepumawillleaveif it’s not sure it’s going towin.One small, evennon-lethalwoundtoapumamayinhibititsabilityto hunt properly. Make a lot of noise, too. Usejackets or bags (or whatever else you may thinkof at this moment) to hold over your head forappearance’ssake.
3.Andlastofall,butnot least important…smile.(Thismaybedifficultdependingonyourproximitytothepuma.)Takeamomenttorealizehowluckyyoureallyareforwinningthelottery.
Puma Lottery by Marjan Alkema
of various web sites. During a two-month periodEnviucarriedoutpracticalworkshops, inwhich theentrepreneurs learned how to make and maintain awebsite.The result of this project is that recently, inaddition to the websites that yet existed, four newwebsiteshavebeenputonline. Ifinterested,checkoutthesenewwebsitesand learn more about the various tourism servicesavailableinPuertoWilliams...•www.turismoshila.com-guiding&tours•www.refugioelpadrino.com-Accomodation•www.hostalpusaki.com-Accomodation•www.albatrospub.com-Food For more information on the work ofEnviu,visitwww.enviu.org.
Campamento Italiano got its name longago from an Italian climbing expedition to climbthe Cuernos. In 1980, after being only a climber’scampsite for years, Italiano became an official freeCONAF campsite. In 2002 the first park rangerswherestationedthere,mostlytopreventbackpackersfrom starting forestfires.Theyguarded the area, butwithout facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004, theybuiltaguardhutthere;allmaterialsarrivedcarriedbyhumans. The number of people spending thenightatItalianohasbeengrowingeversince.Inhighseason,you’llfindupto100tentspernight.UsingthiscampsiteisagreatwaytovisitValledelFranceswithfewer time constraints.Waking up in the morninginItalianoprovidesampletimetoseetheValleyandmoveontoyournextcampbeforesunset. For a long time the only facilities inItaliano are restrooms.The campsite is situated in aLenga beech tree forest, offering trekkers protectionfromwindandrain.ValledelFrancestendstoattractbadweather.ThedisagreeableweatheralongwiththegrowingnumberofpeoplestayingatItalianohasputanewprojectinmotion.Mostrecently,they’vebuiltahuttoprotectcamperswhilecookingandrelaxing,inoutofthestorm.
Torres del Paine spotlightFree campsite Italiano
TravelingtroughPatagoniaoftenincludesstrongwinds,rain,andfrostytemperatures.Butthereissomethingtowarmandcomfortyou.Goodcazu-elasoup.Chileanslovethismeal,whichbelongstotheir cocina criolla (tradicionalcuisine). It’saperfectcombination of rice, potatoes, seasonal vegetables,includingpumkin, corn, andcarrots aswell asbigchunksofmeat,likechickenorhen.CazuelahasitsorigininatypicalSpanishmeal,theolla podrida.ItwasfirstservedonChileanterritoryin1826totheSpanishadmiralBlancoEncalada. Other typical Chilean main dishes in-clude pastel de choclo (corn pie with mincemeat,chicken, and egg), empanadas (with mincemeat,cheese,orseafoodpies),charcicán(aChileanstewofmincemeatandvegetables),andhumitas con ensalada chilena(flavoredmashedcornservedinitsownleafwithatomato-onionsalad). To sate the sweet tooth, there are alsoverylovelydesserts,suchasmote con huesillos (sweet,canned peacheswithwheat) or semola con salsa de vino tinto(semolinastewedinaredwinesauce).¡Provecho!
What Patagonia Tastes LikeBy Sandra Pendelin
