8/14/2019 Menswear Shines at the Golden Globes, 2005

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14 International Herald Tribune Friday, January 21, 2005 **

Christopher Moore/Andrew Thomas

MENS F ASH ION

At Golden Globes, menswear comes into the limelight

pet can be seen in the outfit worn bythe young Dawn of the Dead starMeki Phifer. Wearing a classic blackdouble-breasted tuxedo and tie,the ac-tor made the outfit thoroughly modernby wearing shades of purple to accentthe ensemble. He personalized it fur-ther with a bit of bling bling in the formof a diamond-encrusted watch andpinkie ring.

He looked absolutely gorgeous,said Paster.

The men are doing more than justmaking a fashion statement. By creat-ing distinct looks within the confines of the red carpet, they convey a bit of whothey areto the world.This can be quitea revealing glimpse at the soul of a manand it is, without a doubt, very sexy.

Jessica Michault is on the staff of the International Herald Tribune.

Photos by Carlo Allegri/Getty Images; Kevin Winter/Getty Images;Carlos Diaz/NFGo ff.com; H ector Mata/Agence Fr ance-Presse ; Steve G ranitz /w i r e i m a g e .co m

Hollywoods male stars showed more sartorial independence at this years Golden

Globes. Clockwise from top, Clint Eastwood, Clive Owen; Johnny Depp, Orlando Bloom, Leonardo DiCaprio, Mekhi Phifer, Ewan McGregor with his wife Eve Mavraki s;Charlie Sheen and Denise Richards; Jamie Foxx with Leila Arcier, and Mos Def.

By Jessica Michault

Call it bow tie vs. no tie. The redcarpet battle lines were drawnat this years Golden Globes,as Hollywoods most hand-

some leading men took to the press linein their evening finest.

After years of playing arm candy towomen in gorgeous gowns, men haveentered the fashion stakes, creating anopportunity for high-profile menswearhouses to extend their reach and reapthe rewards of a celebrity endorsement.

The outfits they wore on Sunday ranthe gamut from the ultra-classic blacktuxedo with black bow tie, chosen bythe Closer star Clive Owens in an Ar-mani tuxedo that would make JamesBond proud, to the actor Jamie Foxxsopen-collarshirt and Versace Couturestriped suit in midnight blue worn withHarry Winston cuff links.

In-between, a multitude of variationspopped up at the Globes, revealing amenswear revolution: men are nolonger restricted by bygone definitionsof appropriate evening attire.

It is time for men to get their ownattention and not just be an escort,says Ozwald Boateng, the newmenswear designer for the house of Givenchy. He dressed t he Golden Globenominee, the rapper turned actor MosDef, in one of the houses black woolpolka dot motif tuxedos with a match-ing black shirt tricked out with a re-movable officer collar.

Boateng, who will show his sopho-morecollectionat Givenchyon Jan.31,sees more and more mentaking anin-terest in what they wear to theawardsshows. Men want to respect the his-tory, but now theywa nt to be differentand modern, he says.

The black tuxedo with matching bowtie has given way in recent years to amodern classicfavored bymany young

menwho wantto look good but arentready to take a fashion leap. This redcarpetuniform, whichtakes its inspir-

ation from movies like Men in Blackand Reservoir Dogs, is the blacktuxedo, white shirt, black tie combo.That was the choice for heartth robs Le-onardo DiCaprio (in Armani) and Or-lando Bloom (in Gucci).

What we are seeing is a little moreeffort from the men, says thestylist tothe stars, Jessica Paster, who dressedthe Garden State star Zac Braff andBloom along with Cate Blanchett andMinnie Driver for the Golden Globes.Men who go to these awards shows all

trasting fabrics to great effect, makingthe outfit look sleek and sophisticated.

Ewan has a very natural ease and el-egance. He stillwas doing his take onblack tie but with a lot of wit. I supposeyou need to be k nowing what works foryou, says Silmane, who has seen hisdistinctively cut suits worn by bothmen and women on the red carpet.

It is the inventive use of fabric, thechoice of accessories, and the little de-tails like the type of collar, shoe or lapelwidth that are the subtle rumblings of amens fashion continental shift. Ex-amples abounded at the Globes: Therewas the Spanish actor Javier Bardemsall-black ensemble with an open collarand velvet lapels, the singer Ushers dia-mondstud earring, and Johnny Deppsretro spats, pink tie and blue-tintedglasses to match his double-breastedsuit.

Even thebow tied tuxedo gotan up-date thanks to Sean (P. Diddy) Combswho donned a black velvet version, andClint Eastwood who traded in his black

bow tie for a metallic gold version (ared carpet trend).For Paster the future of the red car-

the time are getting tired of wearingthe same penguin su it over and over.

Another favorite option for men is towear an outfit that matches the dressworn by their date. Charlie Sheen worea silver metallic tie that complimentedhis wife Denise Richardss white chif-fon gown with crystal beading.

Ewan McGregor took the look onestep further by matching his wifesdresswith a black on black tuxedo. De-

signed by Hedi Slimane for ChristianDior, the skinny lapeled suit withmatching skinny black tie used con-

A surreal mix from Armanihair forf luffy sweaters. The story wastold as much in color asin fabric. Thedesigner Italo Zuchelli used wine redand a petrol green as a dark palette thatoverall gave a murky effect to a collec-tion whose original spirit was alwaysultra-clean. That was literally true of the shoes, which were deliberatelydusty, but count that as a touch of cool.

Zuchelli worked details into theclothes with a sheershirt marked witha streakof patternand ribbonsset intoa coat. But sparkling chains danglinglike a cheap fob watch from pants orlooped throughas a belt looked like anopportunist take on mens jewelry,rather than expressing the soul of theCalvin Klein brand.

TheLatin language hasa phraseforthe MiuMiu show: Rus in Urbis, orthe country comes to town. It sums upthe feeling of the 2005/06 autumn/ winterseason when sleek urban looksare in retreat and country checksandrusset colors rule the runways.

Of course, none of MiuMius peatbrown velvet pants, shearlingcoats thecolor of dried mud, nor th e narrow pol-ished leather shoes with a sunset blushacross the toes are destined for thecountry. Instead Prada gave an urbanedge to short tweed coats with leatherbelts marking the waist and to the ubiq-uitousknitted capswhich had an echoof Rastafarian style.

I wanted it to be elegant, slightlypretty and with a soul, said Prada.So a velvet shepherds smock hinted atagrarian labor while paisley printshirts and a blanket-patterned coatsuggested ethnic origins. But Pradaputs everything through her personalartistic blender and from the plush vel-vet briefcases, through the slim-linecardigans to the light and shade of agreen suede coat, she expressed a new

fashion mood more strongly in this linethan in the namesake Prada collection.Two intellectually stimulating de-

signers, whose clothes are produced byGibo, came up trumps. The designerduo Viktor & Rolf are taking tomenswear like their Dutch compatriotsto canals. Holland its sailors and itsroyal history was the joint inspira-tion of a fine collection in which acable crossed a sailors sweater like aknights sash and a sporty blazer car-ried the V & R crest. Named Viktor andRolfMonsieur, the line has always hadan elegant base which looks in sweetharmony with fashion now.

Hussein Chalayan is increasingly ad-ept at getting his cerebral thoughts intodesirable clothes. His theme was shad-ows , which not on ly f it wi thmenswears attraction to light andshade, but also offered intriguing vari-ations. Shirts with Venetian blind pat-terns or a gray shadow under the collarjust hinted at the fears of Big Brother IsWatching You that lay behind the col-lection. But it also brought witty shad-ow-play puppets printed on sweaters.

Expert tailoring and well-propor-tioned casual clothes make Chalayanan increasingly strong menswear de-sig ner.

Marnis artistic presentation fea-tured the Happy People world of thedesigner Consuelo Castiglione wheregraphic flowers and mushrooms sproutin a fashion Neverland. Two-dimen-sional cardboard cut-outs of flora andabstract heads for the fauna were cre-

ated by the British set designer ShonaHeath. The clothes were more down toearth, in their speckledtweeds in col-ors that the designer described asrope and mud. Bold scarves addedbrightness and the collection, follow-ing the general trend toward countrylooks, had a personality of its own.

Continued from Page 13

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

3/5, RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR PARISwww.dolcegabbana.it

TRENDS OF THE SEASON

Hats: Felt trilby, Rudolf Nureyev fur, knitted pul l-on. Tailoring: Short jackets, double-breasted suits, brief coats, formal wear,

wing collars. Pants: Narrow from low crotch, baggy with higher waist. Fabrics: Corduroy, velvet, pinstripes, plaid, tweed, camel. Colors: Dung brown, russet, ginger, mustard, Bordeaux, teal green, blue. Fur: Shearling coats, collars, scarves. Belts: Tooled, bold buckles, inset jewels. Jewelry: Sparkling lapel pins, gilt and silvered chains. Gloves: Elbow-length wool, cashmere and leather. Bags: Totes, briefcases, plaited leather, plush velvets. Shoes: Side-buckled, narrow-toed, fur-lined boots. Attitude: Elegant.

Suzy Menkes is the fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune.