International restaurants 24 06-2012- metro 14
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Transcript of International restaurants 24 06-2012- metro 14
Pankti Mehta■ [email protected]
Smriti Parekh was ecstatic whenher favourite London restau-rant opened up in Bandra-Kurla Complex, Mumbai’s poshnew business hub.
Yauatcha, a fine-dine dim-sum andtea house, set up its first-ever branchin Mumbai and is now modelling futureinternational outlets on the designused here.
“I go to Yauatcha whenever Londonpangs hit,” says Parekh, 25, an adver-tising professional who spent a yearin the UK as a student. “With its blueaquariums and edamame and truffledumplings, it’s like being back in Londonfor a couple of hours. And the dim sumshere are better-crafted than anywhereelse in the city.”
Yauatcha is among a growing num-ber of international food brands choos-ing to cash in on the Mumbai culi-nary scene before setting up outpostsin more cosmopolitan cities such asNew York, London, Paris or even Dubai.
Others include London-basedHakkasan, now in Bandra (West), and
New York-based Serafina, which willopen in Lower Parel by mid-August.
Hakkasan had only two branchesoutside London — one each in AbuDhabi and Miami — before it openedin Mumbai. It has since opened in NewYork and Dubai.
Serafina Mumbai will be that restau-rant’s fourth international foray, afterBrazil, Tokyo and Moscow.
WHY MUMBAI?“Mumbai is currently a hotbed for
culinary experiments and endeavours,”says Jeetesh Kaprani, vice president ofoperations for Ka Hospitality, whichbrought Hakkasan and Yauatcha toMumbai. “Tastes here are evolving asmore people are travelling more often.This isagreattimetoinvest intheboom-ing culinary space here, and foreignbrands are starting to see that.”
The comparative lack of competitionis another factor.
“In more cosmopolitan cities such asLondon and New York, the market forsuch restaurants is much more satu-rated than it is in Mumbai’s emergingeconomy,” says Elisha Saigal, founderand brand strategist at El Sol Strategic
Consultants. “In those cities, even anestablished brand would only be one ofmany. Here, the market is still very aspi-rational. People have heard about theserestaurants, want access to them andwill pay a hefty price for that luxury, soit makes good business sense too.”
But in a country of growing urbanmarkets and aspirations, why Mumbairather than, say, Delhi?
“Delhi is more set in its ways andstill considers fine-dining the prerog-ative of five-star hotels,” says Kapraniof Ka Hospitality. “A typical youngMumbaiite, however, will visit a SwatiSnacks-style fast food joint as fre-quently as a high-end restaurant, andis always looking for new choices. Therearen’t enough restaurants that fall justunder the five-star belt, but provide asimilar experience. And Mumbaipatrons want to invest in places thatgive them delicious food, a special ambi-ence and an overall experience thatgives them an escape from mundanecity routine.”
Experts say two other factors aredrawingworld-classinternationalrestau-rants to Mumbai — a gap in the stand-alone fine-dining segment and enter-prising Indian partner companies.
“It’s not a huge investment on thebrand’s part, but it takes courage forthe local franchisee to bring such estab-lishments to Mumbai,” says NachiketShetye, executive chef and partner at36 Oak & Barley and the White Windowhospitality company. “However, sincethe Mumbai market is maturing at alllevels, it is worth the gamble. In fact,
Hakkasan is now giv-ing other standalonerestaurants the con-fidence to chargefive-star hotelrestaurant rates.”
One significantchallenge, however,is ensuring that thefranchise retains theauthentic flavours andlevel of ingredients ofthe parent restaurant.
“Some ingredients arenot available in Mumbaiand it would significant-ly increase costs to importthem,” says CarolineMcBride, director of publicrelations for Serafina. “We’retherefore taking our time to craftthe menu and find suitable, local-ly available alternatives for a com-promise between consistency in tasteand cost.”
Kaprani of Ka Hospitality also cau-tions that the growing, experimentalmarket only applies to known cuisinessuch as Italian and Oriental.
“I’mnotsureanEthiopianorRussianrestaurant would work here yet, even ifit came with a big-name brand,” he says.
Vittorio Assaf, co-owner of Serafina,would agree. “There is a love affairbetween the sophisticated Indian upper-middle-class and Italian food, whichprompted us to open here. Paris andLondon will eventually come, but at alater stage. Currently, the time is rightfor Mumbai.”
MOSAICCULTURE, TRAVEL, LIFESTYLE
think!
Tucked away in the desolate,snow-covered Himalayas lies apristine lake with skulls andbones scattered on its shores.
First discovered in 1942 by a wan-dering forest guard, this graveyardat nearly 16,500 ft remains frozen overfor much of the year, but reveals itsdark secrets in the brief summer,between June and mid-October.
The bones are believed to date backto some time between the 12th and 15thcenturies AD, with some tests puttingthem as far back as the 1st century AD.Most show signs of skull fracture, asif the deceased had been hit with blunt,round objects, each about the size ofa cricket ball.
Scientists who have studied theremains suspect that the group wascaught and killed in a hailstorm, trappedon the icy Himalayan slopes, with noshelter from the onslaught.
Over time, landslides pushed thebodies into the otherwise pristineRoopkund Lake at the base of the Trisuland Nanda Gunti peaks in Uttarakhand.
Remains of jewellery are still foundscattered among the skeletons.
DNA tests have revealed several dis-tinct groups of people among the 500-odd skeletons, including a group ofshort people, probably local porters,and a taller group with DNA muta-tions characteristic of the KokanasthaBrahmins of Maharashtra.
These lonely victims were mostlikely pilgrims headed to the NandaDevi mountain, revered as the abodeof Nanda, the Hindu goddess of Bliss.Also known as Raj Jat or RoyalPilgrimage, this arduous trek is under-taken by local villagers every 12 years,along a path that passes by Roop-kund Lake.
It is believed that, in medieval times,
King Jasidhwal of Kanauj first madethis pilgrimage to celebrate the immi-nent birth of his first child.
However, with utter disregard forthe rules of pilgrimage, Jasidhwal tookalong a troupe of dancers and somesoldiers, refused to walk barefoot —and was accompanied by his pregnantwife, who eventually gave birth onthe holy mountain.
Legend has it, Nanda Devi was soenraged that a woman had pollutedher holy abode that she rained largehailstones on the group and killed them.
That, of course, is legend. But it isstill intriguing to think, as you makethe six-day trek to the lake, that theremains you are about to see could bethose of a careless young prince, hiswife, baby and favourite courtiers —their lives cut short by a raging moun-tain goddess.
The climb to Roopkund starts at theLohajung mountain pass, 8,800 ft abovesea level. The trail crosses crystal-clear, icy streams as it makes its wayup to the hamlet of Didina, perched onthe edge of the mountain. Opt for ahomestay here, where you can sit bya fire with the family, sipping sweet,milky tea as you watch the eveningpaint a riot of colour across the snowylandscape.
Next, the trail leads through a for-est of towering oaks until suddenly thedense canopy disappears and you steponto a stunning carpet of emerald greenspread out under a brilliant blue sky.This is Bedni Bugyal, a picturesquecampsite dotted with colourful wildflowers, with the mighty Trisul andNanda Gunti peaks in the background.
It’s a gradual two-day climb fromhere to the high camp of Bhagwabasa.Soon, the effect of the thin air beginsto kick in and every few steps leaveyou gasping for breath.
Finally, you turn a corner and thereit is, the clear turquoise waters of mes-merising Roopkund.
You forget your sore muscles and
aching lungs and marvel at the hushedtranquility, the circle of snow-cappedpeaks and the clear blue water.
And you think it wouldn’t be theworst place for an eternal rest.
MAYANK SONItraveltales
IN UTTARAKHAND Skeletons dating back tothe 12th or 15th century await at Roopkund Lake
Uttarakhand
I N D I A
Dehra Dun
C H I N A
RoopkundLake
Kathgodam
GETTING THEREFlights from Mumbai to Delhi startat Rs 7,000 per head for a returntrip. From Delhi, take the RanikhetExpress to Kathgodam and a busor shared jeep to Lohajung.
BE PREPARED■ Accommodation is inexpensivebut extremely basic in Lohajung.Bathrooms are usually common.■ You can get a guide and all thesupplies you will need for yourtrek in the Lohajung market.■ The best time to visit is in May orbetween mid-September and mid-October, when the rains recedeand the skies are clear.■ Remember, however, that at thisaltitude the weather is unpre-dictable, so always be preparedfor rains and severe cold.
■ A panoramic view on the route from Lohajung to Roopkund lake.
■ The remains at Roopkund arebelieved to be those of a group ofpilgrims who perished on their wayto the Nanda Devi mountain.
MUMBAI CALLING Fine-dining restaurant brands from the US and UK, such as Hakkasan,Yauatcha and Serafina, are opening in Mumbai before London, Paris and New York, lured bythe growing and less-competitive market
Meeting a cursed king at a pristineHimalayan lake
Riddhi Doshi■ [email protected]
Johny ML, an art historian, writer,curator and artist, is organisinga unique art fair in New Delhi that
will help artists connect directly withcollectors and connoisseurs.
Unlike India’s existing art fairs —The India Art Festival, held in Mumbai,and the India Art Fair in Delhi —artists will not have to pay for space.
Instead, a total of 350 artists havebeen picked by Johny from among600 applicants, based on samples oftheir work that they send in.
Each selected artist will now beallotted a free stall at the PragatiMaidan venue, from September 27 to30, on condition that 35% of the pro-ceeds of every sale be handed overto the organisers as a commission.
Galleries usually charge a com-mission of 30% to 35% on works soldat art fairs. The fair is beingsponsoredby United Art Logistics.
A total of 1,500 works will be dis-played at the 8,000-sq-metre venue,which will include a curated sectiontitledMindtheGapNow,showingworksby 60 established artists, includingChintanUpadhyay,KSRadhakrishnan
and Diwan Manna. A sculpture parkwill house 15 sculptures.
Among the selected artists is TathiPremchand, 42, a digital artist fromMumbai who graduated fromAurangabad’s Government Schoolof Art in 1990 and has spent the past22 years struggling for platforms toshow his work.
He has had three solo shows so far,two in Delhi and one in Mumbai. Healso shows his work at group showsabout twice a year. But he is not rep-resentedbyagalleryandis losinghopeof ever finding a slot at major galleriessuch as Jehangir in Mumbai.
“Through the fair, I hope to reachout to collectors in Delhi, one of thelargestartmarkets inIndia,”saysTathi.
Mumbai-based Prashanth Irlekar,51, who has been trying to break intothe Delhi art scene for five years, hasalso selected to show at the fair. “Thisis a great opportunity,” he says.
FRESH START A Delhi curator is organisinga unique fair that offers artists free space, aplatform to meet collectors and connoisseurs
Fair display
THE WORLD ONYOUR PLATE
YAUATCHA, LondonMumbai was its first branch outsideLondon. Seats: 200
“I've lived in Dubai and had access tosome wonderful restaurants there andaround the world. Yauatcha compareswell with any of them, in terms of ingre-dients, presentation, authentic flavourand ambience. The overall experience iscompletely different from any otherChinese restaurant, which is why I keepgoing back.”
NASREEN NASSER, media trainer, whopaid about Rs 3,000 for a meal for two
HAKKASAN, LondonOpened at Bandra-Kurla Complex inJune 2011, its third outlet outsideLondon, after Abu Dhabi and Miami. Ithas since opened branches in New Yorkand Dubai. Seats: 120
“For me, the biggest selling point atHakkasan is the quality of the food. Theambience is great, but the reason I don’tmind paying their prices is because of thatsoft-shell crab and tender pork belly — themost authentic Chinese food in the city.”
DARIUS SURTI, who runs a printing businessand paid about Rs 12,000 for a meal for four
THE HIT LIST
Markets like London and New York havebecome saturated and so it is perhaps nosurprise that restaurant entrepreneurs havelooked to affluent markets like Abu Dhabi,Moscow or Mumbai. This trend of interna-tional expansion is happening all over, fromMiami to Hong Kong and Singapore.Personally I’m not a fan. A chain is a chain,no matter how you try and disguise it.
MATT PRESTON, British-Australian foodjournalist, restaurant critic and TV presenter
COMMENT CORNER
India needs many platforms topromote its art market and this
United Art Fair is a laudable effort.RAJENDRA, who goes by only one
name and is director of India Art Festivaland editor of Art Journal
PHOTOS: MAYANK SONI
Four years ago, Wasabi by Morimoto at the Taj waspretty much the only big foreign name in the Mumbaimarket. Now, the western market is down, while Indiaand China are both attracting the world’s best chefsand restaurants. I noticed this trend in Shanghai aboutthree years ago, and Mumbai seems to be catching on.AD SINGH, veteran restaurateur andowner of the Olive brand of restaurants
SERAFINA, New York (ABOVE)Opened its first branch in Tokyo last month, will launch in Moscow thismonth and in Mumbai in late July or early August.
■ Hakkasan opened at Bandra-Kurla Complex in June 2011. It has since openedbranches in New York and Dubai.
■ This digital art work by artist Tathi Premchand will be showcased at the fair. Premchand isone of 350 artists selected to exhibit their works at Pragati Maidan in September.
THINKSTOCK
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