Harry Stockdale journal of exploration in the far north west of...

Harry Stockdale journal of exploration in the far north west of Australia, 1884-1885 A 1580

Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW

Harry Stockdale journal of exploration in the far north west of Australia, 1884-1885 A 1580 [] Exploration in the far North West of Australia by Harry Stockdale My party and myself seven in all sailed from Sydney NS Wales on board of S.S.Whampoa Aug 26th. 1884 after prolonged negotiations with China Navigation Co. to induce them to go a far way out of their route to land us in Cambridge Gulf the company objecting to allow their steamer taking the risk of an almost unknown course. Probably the Whampoa was the only ship to enter the Gulf since the first maritime explorers & surveyors. We had on board sufficient rations to last a year and 25 horses. This trip was arranged by myself and at my own cost no Govt. assisting me in any way either then or since. We entered Cambridge Gulf at day light on the 13th of Sep. after a very fine & favourable passage, our horses actually improving in condition while on board and we succeeded in landing them all without a scratch at a place since known as [Page 1 cont.] (13th Sep.) Stockdales' Landing; we landed them all inside of two hours: the ship lying at anchor about 200 yards from shore in 12 fathoms of water. Stockdale's landing is about 24 miles inside the Gulf on the western side and is a natural rocky landing perhaps the very best in the whole 200 miles of foreshores in lat. about 13° 3' 19”. At our stony landing place the feed was scarce & no fresh water but we succeeded in obtaining fair feed & splendid water about 1 mile inland. Here we made a camp and stayed several days resting the horses and having them all well shod by our smith Paul Battmer and putting our packs in travelling order. We saw a number of curlews, parrots, [Page 2] both black & white cockatoos, cranes, doves and one solitary crow besides an enormous track of a blackfellow which measured almost 13 in. in length. Timber near the camp Palms, Gums and Baoab, also Bean and the Northern cotton tree with pods loaded with beautiful white silky looking fibre besides a tree with bright scarlet flower. Sep. 19. Friday. Made an early start and travelled 3 miles West ½ mile South then 3½ miles east round large mangrove flat & sand pan; then with some difficulty crossed very precipitous and stony gap in range about 800 ft high called Stockdale's Gap. The horses faced it very well and we got safely over into a new natural paddock of about 30,000 acres, well grassed with Kangaroo and other grasses and with a fine though small fresh water creek running through the centre of it with numerous nice little holes of good water and no stones. Our horses enjoying the loamy ground after the stiff stony climb. Made in all about 10 or 12 miles. Trees at camp gum, box, palm, bean and a kind of wild fig. Marked tree H.S. No.2. Lat. on alt'de. Achernar 15° 3'. [Page 3] Sep 20th. Saturday. Made 4 miles in generally west direction the first 3 good travelling, the last mile was over round boulders at bottom of a ravine the hills on both sides being stony and but well grassed. reached a good water hole & camped, both men and horses jaded. Called the creek Birdie. Trees at camp palm, accacia, box, bottle, species of wattle, bean and others of unknown character. There has evidently been a large body of natives here quite recently.



Sep 21st. Sunday. Left camp at ½ past seven and made 4½ miles following down the Birdie in a westerly direction some part of the way very rough & stony & especially severe upon the pack horses, some of which were carrying 200 lbs. Passed several fine but small water holes Camped at ½ past 11 near 3 fine water holes, and most of the party spent their afternoon fishing, and son had a dozen or so, ranging from 2 oz to ½ a pound. One of the holes here has some very handsome water-lillies, rich golden petals and pale puce-tinted leaves and quite a pleasant smell, the petals streaked with rich small black lines, This is one of finest flowers I have ever seen. I have preserved a specimen and kept some seed. The same hole is backed up by a cliff of [pinkish] [Page 4] pinkish granite of fine grain. The general characteristic of the country here is stony & mountainous but well grassed & watered: tomorrow I hope will see us on some better and easier travelling. This morning one of our best mares had to be left behind having slipped on the rocks yesterday when carrying a heavy pack, and injured herself. This is a great loss but will make the party more careful of the others. Trees Giant Gums & box. Both yesterday and today we passed numerous old camps of the natives, and I expect we are not far from a large creek or river. Marked tree H.S.4. Lat. 15°. 6' 19”. Thermometer in shade at 1 o'clock 94°. Morning and evening quite cool. Sep 22. Monday. Loads all packed and started by 7 am. Followed down the Birdie 3½ miles in a general Westerly direction, the gorge opening out into a fine grassed flat between two parallel tiers of hills running in a S.W. direction. Struck a nice little fresh water creek with well grassed flats and followed it down SW for about 2½ miles where it empties into a large salt water creek borded with Ti tree, which we crossed. . The fish in the creek were jumping out of the water in all directions; some of them quite large. After crossing the creek we kept in on in a SW course [across] [Page 5] across a fine open flat for about 4 miles further when we camped. It was about noon, and very hot - Thermometer registered 100° in shade. Our camp was on a small creek the water of which is slightly brackish. The whole of the country crossed to day is well watered, and of a very fair pastoral character, free from stones, and well adapted for any kind of stock. This should make a fine horse-breeding station. The hills on both sides are more or less stony, but well grassed. Timber at camp - ti tree, gum, box, and a kind of apple tree. This flat is about 3 miles wide by 6 long. There are 2 fine holes in a little higher up this creek, with beautiful water. Marked tree H.S. 5 Lat. 15° 3.49 L. Favonis Sep. 23. Tuesday. Left camp a little before 7 and travelling in a W.S.W. course for about 3½ miles (cut the course of a large creek the banks of which are lined with large gums ) over a nice open country almost tree-less & well grassed; but finding no water we went S.E. for ½ a mile onto another large creek, and found abundance of water - time ½ past 9 and as day was excessively sultry and hot, decided to camp and have all the horses' shoes looked at. Grass at the camp is very good, and the ground loamy, so our horses will be able to enjoy their rest. Thermometer in shade at noon 100°. I think both these creeks join a little further down [the] [Page 6] the flat. I have called this creek The Patrick, after my friend Mr. Patrick O'Connor of Sydney, who takes a great interest in matters West Australian. This afternoon the sky is overcast with heavy



clouds and we are in hopes of a good thunder-storm. Birds seen to day – curlews, white cockatoos, sparrow-hawk, top knot and bronze-wing pigeons, quail in large numbers jumping up before us for over a mile, whistling ducks and turkeys. Lat. 15.9.23 ? Favonis Marked tree H.S.6 Sep. 24 Wednesday. The feed and water being so good here, and the weather so sultry decided to spell for a day or two. The hole we are on in the Patrick creek is over a mile long and from 2 to 6 feet deep and evidently a good holding hole, and could I think, by dam and stocking, be made permanent. The country to the West is hilly, but open flats to the South. Sep. 25.Thursday. Travelling in a S.W. direction for 2½ miles through fine country, part of it a plain (opening to the South for miles) We came upon a good water-hole or lagoon, the water of which I believe to be permanent, about 250 yards wide long, covered with lillies; and the feed again so good that we camped. Here we shot 3 geese - there were at least 30 in the [water] [Page 7] water when we first arrived: one of the party Ashton not coming up, have had to send after him: He is poor (though willing) hand in the bush. Timber at camp palm and a sort of wild fig tree, bottle tree, and other flowering trees that I am not previously acquainted with. This is a fine hole and on no creek. The country travelled over to day is very good indeed, and good for any stock. No stones today. The open plain is about 6 miles wide – game of all kinds very numerous. Birds seen wild geese, turkeys, ducks, native Companion, ibis, quail, laughing Jackass, water-hen, and a kind of pheasant called the lawyer. Wild Goose Lagoon. Marked tree H.S. 7. Lat. 15°•9.33. No mosquitoes have as yet been seen or heard. There is another lagoon about 1 mile south of this one, fresh also. About 1½ miles South of our No.7 camp is a large river with an immense bed coming from the West. The tide coming up this far, the water is salt. The bed of this river is the largest and deepest I have ever seen, and further to the West runs between perpendicular cliffs 300 to 400 feet high in some places. I expect to again cut the course of the river in a day or so when I have no doubt it will be fresh. [Note: for 6 for 3 weeks, per week: Flour 30 90 lbs Sugar 10 30 lbs Tea 1½ 4½ Coffee ½ 1½ Rice 5lbs 15 Peas 7 20 Pepper ½ Salt 2 Baking Powder 2 tins Egg Powder 2 tins Bacon 7 lbs. Dried Apple 10 lbs Tinned meat 8 tins ] Sep. 26.Friday. Spelling again. Party gone to the river fishing, caught a good supply. I have called this river the (Stockdale., after my uncle, the late



[Page 8] E.Stockdale of Richmond Park, S.Australia) Honble. John Forrest of Perth, the Premier of West Australia himself a great traveller. Ricketson and I went westward over the hills about 7 miles and found good water for camp. Sep. 27. Still resting horses, as we shall have 3 or 4 day severe work for them over the hills on our course. Sep 28.Sunday. Left camp at ½ past 6, steering a West by South course. In 3 miles came upon a large fresh water river, with splendid reaches of water. This river is running, and in places quite100 yards wide of water. The channel is about 200 yards wide and 150 ft. deep. The holes are beyond all doubt permanent & from 5 to 30 ft. deep: in some places rocky, and in others sandy holes; but since leaving the Gulf we have never met with a boggy waterhole. Some of the holes in the river are over a mile long at present and I do not think there has been rain here for a long time, as the greater part of the feed is very dry and old looking, except where it has been burnt by the natives. We kept coming upon their old camps, and on any number of tracks, but have not yet seen a dark skin. I have no doubt that the river (Stockdale) Forrest runs. [Camped] [Page 9] Camped in the bed of a large creek, emptying into the river, with some nice holes just above the camp. The country travelled over to day in all about 6 miles is very stony but well grassed, and very good country. Rickerton Pitt and self strolled up the river about 2 miles, and saw a splendid hole. Sep. 29 Monday. Left camp early and steering West by South for about 4 miles struck the Forrest river at a point where it is joined by a large creek with a very fine hole nearly 40 feet deep, 80 yards wide, and ½ a mile long. Just above the junction the hole we are camped on the river (Stockdale) Forrest, river is about 100 yards wide and very deep and over a mile long, splendidly shaded with palms and a sort of river ash, and several trees unknown to me. Rickertson & myself saw a young lubra. Called the creek the Annie. Country travelled over to day was a stony tableland, excellently grassed, and with plenty of places where stock could readily go down to water. Marked tree H.S. 9 Lat. 15°. 11'. 27”. Sep. 30th. Tuesday. Left camp early, and steering a generally westerly course made about 15 miles when [Page 10] we struck the course of the Annie creek and camped on a good hole. The day was very warm indeed, but the country travelled over today was really excellent grazing country and for the most part free from stones, and very sound. We travelled between the Annie and the Forrest, each only a few miles off. On our route to day we saw some magnificent reaches of water on the river, one about 3 miles above our last camp, as useful and picturesque a piece of water as I ever remember seeing, about 2 miles long. The country travelled today is quite equal to many of the known good runs in Riverina, and much better watered. The young fellows are all busy catching fish, of which there seems to be an unlimited supply in every hole we come to up to the present time. I have not yet noticed and kind of burr or growth injurious to wool. I regret very much that I am so pushed for time, as I should have liked to thoroughly examine this part; for I have no doubt there is some first class country on all sides of us, but I can only speak of that I have passed over. About 3 miles on our



route to day, another large creek joined the (Stockdale) Forrest coming from North by West. This creek had large holes of water also. I have called it the Ricketson Creek, after Mr. Henry Ricketson, member of my party. Marked tree H.S 1 Latitude 15° 18' 30” meridian altitude ? Gruis. [Page 11] October 1 – Wednesday. Left camp about ½ past 6, and was obliged to turn about a great deal to avoid gullies and stones. At last reached a table-land and travelled altogether about 6 miles, mostly South by West, until we struck the head of the Annie, and camped on a small but deep hole. We camped at 10 A.M., as the morning was sultry and threatening rain. The last few days have been close, and very much like Sydney weather before thunder, and of course very trying to our horses: but so far they have behaved excellently. Country travelled over today not nearly so good as yesterday – just passable for stock and nothing more, but well watered. We heard wild dogs last night for the first time, but they are very scarce, as we always kept a watch at night, and they have not before been heard. Birds seen today – different kinds of pigeons, very brilliantly plumed parrots, and one pheasant. Marked tree H.S.11 October 2. Thursday. Left camp about ½ past 6, travelled in a generally southerly direction for about 3½ miles, and camped on a small spring on a waterhole densely covered with green couch grass – the horses seemed to thoroughly enjoy it. The country today was much more [open] [Page 12] open and good travelling – almost free from stones. We are in a kind of valley about 2 miles wide. The country at camp is like a gentleman's park, and very good pastoral land, excellently grassed with different kinds of grasses, which our horses eat readily, and seem to enjoy. Trees at camp – Gum, a species of oak, box, palm, and a tree heavily loaded with fruit almost similar to quinine and quite as bitter: the tree itself resembles the accacia in leaf and general appearance – large pine, and innumerable handsome shrubs (trees with double leaves). Birds seen at camp – large flocks of galars, pigeons of every description, magpie larks, pheasants, black cockatoos, and some very handsome parrots. There are also kangaroos, flying squirrels and opossums. The hole we are camped on seems to be the head of a creek or river. I sincerely hope we are going to lose the stones for some time at least. Saw and killed our first snake and native cat. Marked tree H.S.12 Latitude 15° 24' 20'' mer. Alt. ? Pavonis October 3 Friday. Camped all day. Rode out myself about 10 miles, and found good water and splendid feed at the head of another large creek [Page 13] October 4. Left camp at 2 p.m. And travelled reached spring at head of the Margaret Creek at 6 . Saw several kangaroos on our way, but did not get a chance to shoot one. Passed large numbers of fine pine and other trees. Passed large numbers of fine pine and other trees. Trees at camp – palm, gum, large box, and one magnificent spreading shady tree, as fine as I ever saw, but totally unknown to me: there are also some fine creepers, and a few handsome small ferns. At this and many of our other camps we have noticed trees that shed their leaves like English trees. Some of these trees have a bright scarlet flower, of which the birds seem very fond. Marked tree H.S. 13. Latitude 15° 26' 42” mer.alt. ? Gruis - Achernar



[Page 14] October 5th Sunday. Camped all day October 6 – Monday. Camped all day. October 7. Tuesday. I rode alone South West, and in about 4 miles came to a fine large creek, with some fine reaches of water, running from West to East. I have called this creek the Reginald, after Mr. Reginald Allen, eldest son of Sir Wigram Allen of Sydney. Country seen mostly table land, good and not very stony. October 8. Wednesday. Started at 5 a.m., and camped on a nice little hole in the Reginald. We had a lot of trouble getting down to the water, and getting up the other side in the morning. The banks of this creek are at least 150 ft. high. Marked tree H.S. 14. At this camp we found several trees heavily laden with fruit exactly like a small badly grown peach, and with the same velvety skin, and small of the peach. We must now be within 3 7 or 4 8 miles of the Kimberly Investment Society's most northern [block] [Page 15] block 921, and hope to camp on it tomorrow. The night was not favorable for observations. October 9 Thursday. Left camp about 8 this morning, and after crossing 2 or 3 deep and rough gullies, came upon a fine river about 300 100 yds. wide, and with some very fine reaches of permanent water. Camped on one, and marked tree H.S.15. Latitude 15° 29' ? Pavonis. The young fellows all busy fishing this afternoon, and hauling them out in fine style. I think they are Perch. Trees at camp – large gum, box and palm. This is an excellent …...our horses and ourselves. The large hole we are camped on slopes nicely down with grass banks right to the water's edge, and is accordingly easy of access for stock of any kind. Country travelled over rather rough, but well grassed. I have called this large creek or river the Carson. Believe this to be the principal head of the Forrest river. October 10 Friday. Camped all day. Went out alone about 4 miles iin a southerly direction, and found several enormous water sheds starting abruptly out of the table land; some of them over ½ a mile across, and sides 200 feet deep, but with only small [holes] [Page 16] holes of water, and difficult to get down to. Thermometer registered in shade at noon 106°. October 11. Saturday. Moved camp early at ½ past 5 a.m. - weather very hot. Passed the heads of the ravines and camped on a creek running in a south-westerly direction. Have called this Creek the … after my friend Mr. … of …. *blanks+ Too cloudy for observations. Left Chestnut mare – fell over me, died next day (you or the mare?) Country travelled over high stony tableland, well grassed and wonderfully well watered. October 12 Sunday. Left camp early, and after making 4 miles in a generally southerly direction camped on two small holes on a large creek with two splendid permanent springs, well shaded by palm and other trees, and having a large supply of beautiful cool water. They are in a little ravine off the main creek. This is a very large creek, and must empty into the Carson, which no doubt a



little below where we camped on it, is a very large and fine river. I have called this creek the …....., after ….. Country travelled over today tableland with only a few stones – well grassed [and] [Page 17] and lightly timbered with box and pine, well adapted for sheep country. Latitude 15° 34' mer. alt. ? Parvonis Trees at camp – kind of quinine berry, accacia, box, oak, and several other kinds. Birds seen – pigeons and cockatoos. Mulcahy shot a kangaroo. I have called these ranges the ….. One of our best pack mares fell down and injured herself, and unfortunately died during the night. The fearful places we have had to go up and down have been very trying to our pack horses, and as we have made nearly a straight line to here, we have had to face some great difficulties, more or less of mountains for 100 miles, and gullies and ravines that I never thought a horse could cross, but in many places we have had to make roads for them, and now they are so clever that they would literally climb a ladder. We are now fairly on the ….. I find going up the creek there are some good permanent holes of water, and fairly approachable from the tableland. Marked tree H.S.17 October 13 Monday. Did not move camp. Went out on foot accompanied by Mr. Pitt for about 4 miles, and found the travelling very good, with some very large mountains on ahead, and unfortunately [for] [Page 18] for us right across our track, also large bush fires. Came back, and all hands went to work to make a road to enable the pack horses to get up the steep and rugged side of the creek. October 14 Tuesday. Left camp at 6 a.m. (leaving party to follow due South) and went on in search of a good camp for the horses, and if possible to get them some green feed, as the grass at the last few camps, though freely eaten by our horses, has been pretty dry. I should think this is about the middle of summer here; some of the days are very hot, but mostly we have had a pleasant and cool breeze blowing, which I hope will continue. Found no green feed, but came on a splendid river, which I have named the Lorimer, after one of the principal shareholders, and camped on a fine hole about ½ a mile long, and 120 yards wide, and very deep. Caught a few fish here also. The feed, though dry, is very good and fine here, and the horses seem to like it. Had to leave a stallion here through sore feet. Passed today a waterfall of over 100 feet in the perpendicular, in a fine large creek, running through a good valley, and emptying into the Lorimer at our camp. I have called this creek the Byrne, after my old friend Mr. T. Byrne, of Wilcannia, N.S.W. Just opposite to our camp is a fine spring in the side of the river bank, and for a [Page 19] a mile ahead we can see fine reaches of water in the Lorimer. This river is fully 400 yards wide in the bed, but most of the holes are only 80 to 150 yards wide, and very deep. The banks are very high, but stock can get down in almost any place, and all the holes have sandy beaches, quite sound and free from bog – in fact one of the best rivers I ever saw for easy access and safety of watering for stock. Marked tree H.S.18. Trees at camp box, gum, accacia, kind of bloodwood, palm. October 15 Wednesday Did not move camp today. Ricketson and self walked about 4 miles, and saw that the country seemed to open out.



October 16 Thursday. Moved camp at 2 pm, keeping the left bank of the Lorimer. Struck a large creek in about 1½ miles, emptying into the river. Got with great difficulty into its bed, and camped on a good hole. Found the banks of the creek to be 450 feet high (by Aneroid barometer). Called this creek the Buchanan, after my friend Mr. W. Buchanan, the well-known squatter of Sydney, and brother of the equally well-known overlander, Mr. Nathaniel Buchanan. Marked no tree. This is an immense creek, [nearly] [Page 20] nearly as large in the bed as the river itself. Travelling fearfully rough, and immense stones. October 17 Friday. Left camp at 6 o'clock. And following bed of creek came on the river in about 1 mile. Turned, and keeping the valley of the river in a Southerly direction over first class country, splendidly grassed, with fine deep waterholes, for about 2½ miles, camped on a hole about 2 miles long and very deep. Marked tree H.S.20, almost opposite a large cliff 400 ft. high. Latitude 15° 28' 28” mer. alt. Achernar. Thermometer in shade 94° This hole is 40 feet deep in places, and about 150 yards wide, and approachable on both sides for all kinds of stock, having occasional sandy beaches of 50 or 60 yards in length, and no bog anywhere. Trees at camp – gum, box, palm, kind of large ti-tree, and some of very hansome. There is a lot of pine herbage here, though dry, the horses are devouting it greedily. Scarcely any stones. Saw 3 kangaroos. Caught a feed of fish for supper. Noticed in the river many peculiar kinds of fish, one just like a gar fish, only a bout 18 inches long. Another kind is spotted like a leopard, and another very small fish, no larger than a minnow, is striped like a tabby-cat. They are very handsome. Mr. Ricketson and self walked up the river [this] [Page 21] this afternoon for about 3 miles, and noticed that it turned away toward the South-East, a little above where we were. On our return shot a large black cockatoo, much larger than the ordinary kind, with red bars across the tail, had him grilled for supper. On our way home, down the opposite side, or the right bank of the Lorimer, saw some very handsome trees entirely unknown to either of us, fit for building or fencing purposes, and came upon a bundle larger than a sheaf of wheat, tied up at both ends with bark, and neatly wrapped in long grass. We left it until next day, when our camp would be nearer, and we could go and open it. It was laid on a rock in the bed of the river and near to a small hole. What to us seems peculiar, we have never seen a track of, or an alligator in any of the fine watercourses we have been on – in fact we all of us have our bath every day without any fear, just as we would do in Sydney baths. It is very cloudy and like a thunderstorm tonight, so our observations may not be quite correct, supposing that we get any. Sky cleared near morning, and got observations. October 18. Saturday. Went on ahead of party at ½ past 5 this morning, and found a very nice camp at [Page 22] at end of waterhole about 2 miles in a South by West course. Returned and brought up party and camped. The grass here is exceptionally good, and the surroundings free from stones. On the opposite side of us is a really grand site for a home station paddock – a large horse-shoe enclosure, made by the high steep hills coming right up to the water at the northern end, and within a mile of it on the southern end. About 1 to 1½ miles of fencing here would make a paddock of quite 4000 acres of really grand grass country, and within 2 miles frontage to a permanent water-hole, very



deep and wide, and stock proof. I intend camping here for a few days, to rest the majority of the horses, and inspect the northern portion of the Leopold Downs, which from what I have already seen of it, is likely to be a very fine one indeed. I shall in all probability form a depôt here, and leave two of the party in charge of half the horses, and go south with the rest, so as to make a thorough inspection of this vast estate, 5,000,000 of acres. South-west from here, and about 8 miles distant, I can see a large mountain standing our very conspicuously. I shall endeavour to reach it, and fix its position. I have it Mount Ricketson, after my old friend, and once employer, Mr. F.W. Ricketson, of …. station N.S.W., and who I know takes a great interest in the Kimberly district of Western Australia. Thermometer 90 in shade. Latitude 15º 41' 32” mer. alt. ? Grius. [Page 23] A plentiful supply of fish again today, and so far I am sure we are all in better health, and heavier, than when we started, though we have had some rum of stony mountains to get both up and down. Trees at camp – gum, box, wild peach, large flat and big gums. Went to see if our bundle was still on the rock in the river, and found it there as left yesterday. Opened it, and found it full of different kinds of bark, evidently meant for tanning purposes. Marked tree H.S. 21, and depôt on east bank of river. 19th October Sunday. Rested in camp. Thermometer 92 in shade. 20 October Monday. Went out about 17 miles Northerly. Found the country on the 921 blocks to be very good indeed, well grassed and watered, and not nearly so stony as the major part of the country we have already crossed. (Sent back after Snipe, and found him dead) Heavy thunder and lightning, and a little rain – about 1 inch. 21 October - Tuesday . Left camp at 8 o'clock accompanied by [Ricketson], [Page 24] Ricketson, P, Mc, and Carl and 9 horses for the purpose of a thorough inspection of the Leopold Downs, leaving the balance of the horses at depôt in charge of Malcahy & Ashton. Buried the principal part of the provisions, in case of anything happening to those left behind; and taking 3 weeks supply, and 3 pack horses, and a couple of spare horses, we travelled in a S.W. direction for about 9 miles, when we again struck the Lorimer, and camped on a good hole with green feed for the horses, and any amount of fine perch for ourselves. Had a grand supper of fresh fish and peas. Today the travelling was uncommonly good, and free from stones. We followed the course of a small sandy creek, with occasional nice little holes, up to the foot of Mt. Ricketson (which is a very distinctive land mark) and then on about 2 miles to camp on the river. The country on both sides was all that could be desired in a pastoral sense – fine high open timbered country, magnificently well grassed and watered, and with a fair supply of box and pine timber for fencing purposes. Marked tree H.S. 22. Latitude 15º 45' 36” Canopus. Mount Ricketson is about 2 miles North West from the camp, and stands out very prominently. The Lorimer must be at least 150 miles long, and waters some really grand pastoral country. From camp here I can see several large mountains to the South and South West. Trees in camp – gum, box and several varieties of palm, native peach. Saw several kangaroos today, also native companions, ducks, cranes, black cockatoos, and numbers of bronze wing pigeons. Thermometer



Thermometer 90º in shade at noon. The river from camp 21 to 22 takes a very decided turn to the East, and is full of fine holes all the way. Went out alone this afternoon in a N. by W. direction for about 8 miles, and found the country very good indeed. Crossed a small creek – one with good water in it. October 22. Wednesday. Had horses all packed and started at ½ past five this morning, and travelling in a generally S.S.W. Course for 7 miles over magnificently well grassed downs almost free from stones, lightly timbered with good woods for fencing, and looking like an English meadow, we again struck the Lorimer and followed its course for 3 miles. Camped on a grand hole about 1 mile long, from 100 to 200 yds wide, and very deep, the N.W. side being a very high and steep bank; but the south east side well grassed slopes right down to the waters edge. There are several holes in this river quite equal to the best I have seen on Cooper's Creek, and the country so far is superior to that of the Cooper. That travelled over today is as good as any one could desire, and would I think carry stock all the year round at two acres to the sheep in all seasons My party were in high spirits at the appearance of the country – in fact the improvement and freedom from the stones and boulders of the last few camps has brightened us all up a good deal. [Saw] [Page 26] Saw several turkeys, kangaroos, white and blue cranes, spoonbill, ducks, magpies, cormorants and pigeons, and a few very large dark and light green parrots as large as a gulah, and very handsome. Both turkeys and kangaroos are very wild here, and take a lot of patience to approach within shot of them. There are several isolated hills here close to our camp and one, a small conical shaped one, I have called the McIlree, after the surveyor accompanying me. Sky too cloudy for observation. Heavy thunder and lightning – little rain. Trees at camp – palm, giant gum, box, and some very handsome flowering shrubs, dark green leaves with bright scarlet pendants about 9 inches long. Thermometer at 5 this morning 65º, at noon today 88º. Last night was again cloudy, and we had a little rain and lightning. Went out alone this afternoon in a N.W. direction for a bout 6 miles, and found the country well grassed; and watered by a large creek, a tributary of the Lorimer. Marked tree H.S. 23. Called the creek ….. October 23. Thursday. Left camp early, and steering a S.S.W. course found the travelling all good. A splendid valley opens out between two isolated hills, and runs S.E., containing about 20,000 acres of pastoral land of the very highest order. On our route we saw that a large creek joined the river a little below our last nights camp, coming from the [Page 27] the West by North. After we had gone about 4 miles we crossed a small stony ridge, from the top of which we could see the Lorimer winding away for about 15 miles, and seemed to be coming from the West, the country all along its route being open, and lightly timbered, the banks being fringed with palm and gum. Following it on our course S. by W, camped for lunch on a nice little pocket of water under a waterfall over 80 feet high. We caught 18 small perch, which, with some coffee and biscuit, made a good apology for a feed for the five of us; then saddling up we climbed small stony hill about 100 feet high, and kept on our course over fine level forest, richly and variously grassed, and almost equal to anything I have ever seen for about 8 miles further. We camped for the night on a small creek, with good green feed for our horses in the bed of it. On our left, about 3 miles off in an E. by S. direction is an immense mountain. I have named this mountain the ….



To the south and north and west the country all appears the same as we have crossed coming today. In the afternoon we again saw the river coming from the west with perhaps a little south. It seemed to be about 10 miles off, and to the East as far as the eye could reach was finely grassed open country, apparently like that we were crossing, free from stones, and no doubt well watered, as we could see the large timber of a [watercourse] [Page 28] watercourse right through it, with several smaller ones emptying into it. I don't suppose we shall see the Lorimer any more now, as our courses lie apart. This is a glorious river, and must be over 200 miles in length. We followed it upwards for about 50 miles through the K.T.S. country, and saw it winding away for 15 miles further and the last hole where we camped on it was the finest we have seen on our trip. I should think it must be a long way to its head, and there can be no doubt it waters over 60 miles of block 119, 120, containing each one million acres. The country we passed today is of the highest a good class for any pastoral purposes, and well adapted for any kind of stock – fine high level country, free from any sour herbage, well grassed, and water every few miles. Marked tree H.S. 24. Thermometer 95º in shade at daylight. Weather still a little sultry, sky clouded and like rain – Birds seen – turkey, cranes, pigeons, white cockatoos, gulahs. Saw some kangaroos, and one paddy-melon. Timber – box, large number of big pines, gum and many other trees like wood suitable for fencing. The trees here are from 20 to 100 yards apart nearly all day. Latitude 16º 2' 36”. October 24. Friday. Started at ½ past 5, and steering a southerly course, went round the point of a big mountain or table land, and found it still [continued] [Page 29] continued on for several miles almost parallel to our course. Open forest country, richly well grassed, just a tree here and there. This morning after travelling 11 miles crossed a small creek with some very fine gums on it. About 7 miles after starting watered our horses, and still steering southerly, cut the course of another creek with palms and gums, and camped at 10 o'clock for luncheon of boiled peas and tea. Started again at 2, and steering a southerly course, with fine open country to the west, and over country of a similar character to that of the morning. Passed several little holes of water, and after 5 miles camped on a creek with palms and bottle trees, box and gum, around it, and splendid green feed a foot high – the horses did well. The night was very cloudy till near morning, thunder and lightning and threatened rain, but none fell. Thermometer at noon in shade 98° at daylight 67°. Birds seen – Pigeons, cockatoos and parrots. Excellent travelling all day, and over very superior country – no stones. Latitude 16° 17' 7” Canopus. Marked an immense bottle tree H.S. 25 – This tree is 33 feet in circumference. October 26. Saturday. Started at ½ past 5 this morning – horses looking as full as ticks, and keeping a southerly course, about parallel to a creek with some nice little holes of water, for about 4 miles, had [good] [Page 30] good travelling, and good country, open and splendidly well grassed; then crossed a low ridge of pamp triodia or fine spinifex for near a mile. This ridge was gravelly also and poor – then once again into first class fair country for about 6 miles further, and camped on a small creek bordered with palms and gums – good fair country all around. Left camp at three, weather sultry, and travelling East of south for about 5 miles, camped on fine green feed, but without water. I went on



ahead and found a spring, which was inaccessible for the horses: brought water back for camp. A heavy dew falling, with the green feed, our horses did not do so badly. Carl, our shoeing smith, shot a young Emu; we are going to make a stew of him tomorrow, with some peas. Latitude and longitude not taken. Marked tree H.S. 26. The country passed over this afternoon was still as good as usual, and of the same description. Birds seen – gulahs, ducks, black and also white cockatoos – also 5 emus and some kangaroos. Trees – box, bottle, accacia, gum, palm, peach and divers other trees, some fruit-bearing, that I do not know. Thermometer at noon 100º daylight 66º. October 26. Sunday Moved camp about 3 miles (starting at ¼ to 5) to good water, and spelled the remainder of the day. Rode out ahead at ½ past 4 about 10 miles [westerly] [Page 31] westerly, and found several watercourses, and the country if anything better than as good as any we have yet seen – grass about 2 feet high, and thick as it could stand, wet as it could possibly be with the heavy dew. Returned to camp and set to making a damper, as during this 3 weeks trip I am acting as cook myself, the others helping me all they can; and things are going on very pleasantly indeed, plenty of good tucker, and such fine country – feed and water everywhere. Our emu and pea stew was a success, better than any of us expected, probably owing to his being so young bird. Trees at camp- box, gum, palm. Birds seen – parrots, galars, cockatoos, doves, pigeons, water wag-tails. Latitude 16° 21' 15” ß Hydri. Marked tree H.S. 27, Thermometer at noon 90°, daylight 65°. Had a great supper, dough boys sugar and stewed apples. October 27. Monday. Started at 6, and travelling for about 8 miles in a southerly direction over open forest country, level and well and finely grassed, very lightly timbered, crossed two creeks, then cut the course of another creek, and following it down westerly for about 2½ miles, came on some good holes of water, and camped. Caught a good supper of fish, 37 in ½ an hour. Sky cloudy this afternoon, thunder and lightning and threatening rain; hot up to noon, cool and pleasant afternoon. Saw galars, Nankeen cranes, white cockatoos [Page 32] cockatoos, native companions, 2 kangaroos, ducks, doves and pigeons. Trees at camp – box, gun and palm, and some other kinds. This is a very fine creek indeed, and I think from the number and size of the fish must be permanent water, though we are only about 6 miles from the head of it. A little below our camp there are some better holes. I have called this creek the ….. I now believe I am close to a large watercourse, and expect to cut it tomorrow or next day. Rode out this afternoon about 6 miles easterly, and found the country of a similar description to that I crossed in the morning. A large table land is still on the left or east of us. It is easy of access and splendidly well grassed, though the sides are stony. There are numbers of permanent springs in different parts of it, and no scarcity of water. We have now travelled parallel with it for 2 days. At our camp the creek is running north. Marked tree H.S.28. Latitude 16° 33' Canopus. Thermometer daylight 67°, noon 100°. October 28. Tuesday. Left camp at ½ past, and steering southerly for about 6 or 7 miles, cut the course of a large creek, looking very much like the head of a river, and most probably from its position and course is one of the heads of the Prince Regent. Camped 4 hours, and had luncheon. Today is very



[Page 33] hot indeed. There are some enormous bottles here; the one we are camping under measured 50 feet in circumference. Left camp about 4 oclock, and running the creek up found it coming from the south west east, and trending north west. Passed several very fine holes of water, and camped in about 3 miles, where the creek comes out of the table-land. This hole is about 150 yards long, very deep, and permanent. Camped under a cliff of at least 100 feet in height. There are two palm trees here that top the cliff by at least 10 feet, by far the tallest we have seen by at least 50 feet, also some grand bottle trees, one of which we marked H.S.29. Another large hole, about ½ a mile higher up creek. While the others were camped, I caught a fresh horse, and rode down the creek, and found the country on both sides as good as yet travelled over, open and splendidly fairly grassed, with every ½ mile or so a fine waterhole. Also in direction S.W. for about 7 miles. Saw black ducks, native companions, cormorants, pigeons, all sorts of parrots and cockatoos, and 2 kangaroos. The country passed over in the morning was all of the same character as that of the last few days, well grassed open country, with just an odd tree dotted here and there, about one in every 50 yards, and of a first class really good pastoral country nature, and free from stones. We have now crossed in more or less of a direct line over 90 miles of the K.I.C. And quite 150 in different directions, and have found it exceed in every way our most sanguine expectations. I never before saw so well and more permanently [watered] [Page 34] watered country in every possible direction; holes deep, and large enough to last for years without rain, and the grasses are not at all course or sour, as is so often the case in new country, being too rank; for though dry from being no doubt a long time without rain having fallen, our horses eat it greedily, and improved upon it, with coats like race-horses. This country only wants to be seen to be believed in; all my party agreeing that they had never seen anything much superior to it, either in N.S.Wales or Queensland, and nothing to approach it for permanent water. As far as we have yet gone, no improvements would ever be required in the way of conserving water, as every few miles in every direction that most valuable article to the pastoralist abounds. There is a fair quantity of timber for fencing purposes, though it cannot be said to be to plentiful; still when compared to some other settled parts it appears to great advantage, and when it is considered that no outlay is required for the preservation of water, and that the sums usually expended in that way would more than double the expense of shipping a few cargoes of young ewes, the value of, and the enormous income that in a few years would be returned by a property of this class, of the extent of 5,000,000 of acres, capable of grazing over a million of sheep, must strike everyone at all acquainted with sheep, and their productiveness under circumstances so favorable, for there can be no question that this is one of the very [Page 35] very finest pastoral properties, not only in Western Australia, but Australia. Latitude at last camp 16° 38' 30” ? Gruis. October 29. Wednesday. Went out early this morning for 8 miles, and saw the country to the S.W. Still fine and open for about 5 miles beyond where I went to. Crossed several watercourses and saw a large watercourse, under some big hills to the west, and apparently trending N.W. Returned and moved camp due south over a point of table land for about 6 miles (about 1½ miles of this was rather stony and covered with trodia or spinifex, the remainder finely grassed and open timbered country). About this point we could see the watercourse I had seen in the morning, about 5 or 6 miles S.W. of us, and running under some rather big hills, and apparently going N.W. as when seen



by me in the morning. I have called this creek the Faithful, after Mr. Percy B. Faithfull, Barrister of Sydney. Between the watercourse and ourselves was open flat country with but few trees and seeming to be well grassed, but of what kinds I cannot say, not having passed over this portion. We then turned easterly, still on the table land, and going over some very fine open forest country, gradually descending for about 6 miles, cut the course of a creek trending [East] [Page 36] East – some excellent pasture and trending almost on our course. We followed it down for about 2 miles. I came upon a fine little waterhole covered with lillies, and camped. Marked tree H.S. 30. This hole is a permanent spring, and on the boundary between blocks. Latitude 16° 39' ? Gruis Went out this evening for about 7 miles due south, and found the country very similar to what we had passed over for the last 4 or 5 miles, open and well grassed. The soil here is of a chocolate colour, and, like all the country we have yet travelled over, very sound. Birds seen – ducks, parrots, &c. Trees at camp - palm, box, gum, pine, and a kind of wattle. Caught 67 fish this afternoon in 2 hours – a kind of bream. Shot 2 ducks. Camp above sea level 370 feet. October 30. Thursday. Left camp at ½ past 4 this morning, the others following my tracks down the creek for bout 7 miles. Came upon another nice little hole, covered with lillies, and a fine spring of water and camped. Went on down the creek myself for about 3 miles further, and have no doubt now from its northerly bearing but that it is the same watercourse we camped on at H.S.29, and which I take to be one of the heads of the Prince Regent river. Came upon several nice holes of [water] [Page 37] water, and found the country well grassed in the valley, with low stony well grassed ridges on either side. Our course today for about 2 miles was easterly, and then north east for about 3 miles, and 2 miles northerly into camp. First time we have felt or seen mosquitoes. Marked tree H.S.31. Country passed over very good well grassed valley, with fine open country to the south, and table land to the north. Altitude of the camp above sea level 1000 feet. Caught a good supply of small fish. Trees at camp – box, gum, messmate, palm and edible shrub very like young she-oak, of which the horses seem very fond. Thermometer in shade, daylight 62°, noon 106°. In the evening I went down the creek about 4 miles, and found still very good country in the valley, and table land grassed with fine and grass on either side. My mare put her foot into a deep hole, and rolled very heavily over me hurting my knee rather badly. Mr. McIlree shot a fine young buck kangaroo, about 40 lb., and in fine order. October 31. Friday. Left camp at 4 this morning. Got on top of ridge, and crossed table land for about 2 miles – country thickly covered with spinifex and grass mixed, but very stony, so decided to return to camp, and go a different course. I have [called] [Page 38] called this table land, which extends for miles north and south, the Pearson range, after Mr. Pearson of Dal. Campbell and Co. Found the camp just moving off, and we all went slightly east of south for a mile; then got upon the table land and found the travelling good, country open and not very stony, fairly grassed, but good deal of fine spinifex; and travelling a shade south of east for about 2½ miles, cut the course of a large watershed: got down into the valley, and followed the creek up south for a mile. Found grand grass and water and camped. I have called this creek the



McLeod, after Mr. Donald McLeod of Dal Campbell and Co, Melbourne, one of the owners of the property. 8 o'clock saddled a fresh horse, and went out alone up the creek for about 9 miles of good going, free from stones, and finely grassed on both sides of the creek, with low stony ridges about ½ a mile off on both sides. These ridges are thickly covered with good grass and triodia mixed, timber pretty open, mostly box and different kinds of small trees and shrubs. Scaled a hill a little higher than the others and saw good looking open country to the south west, but could not see far to the east for broken hills. Saw black duck, native companion, both black and white cockatoos, ibis, cranes, pigeons and kangaroo. Timber at camp very large box, some of them 3 feet through, gum and palm. Marked tree H.S. 32 east bank of creek. Thermometer daylight 70°, noon 94°. Camp 420 feet above sea level [Page 39] November 1. Saturday. Left camp at 4, going on ahead of the others, who were packing up, and following the course of the McLeod creek down in a general north easterly direction for about 5 miles, came to where another large creek coming from the west joined it, and camped for a while till the others came up, when we gave all the horses 1¼ hours on the magnificent green rib grass, 3 feet high and sweet as a nut; then still following the creek (passing some fine holes of good water, some permanent) for about 7 miles, camped for luncheon of doughboys and sugar, great favorites with all of us, and I think I must make them well, they disappear so quickly. Some very tall palms, fully 30 feet higher than the highest of the large gums alongside of them – fine handsome accacias. Up to here the travelling has been good, almost free from stones, and the country very good pastoral country; the valley about a mile wide; low stony table land on both sides. Left camp at 4, and still following the creek down, found another large creek joined it about ¾ of a mile down, coming from the south east, and about 1½ mile down another creek came in from the west. The last 2 miles the valley has widened out to about 2½ miles, and the country improved into really first class grazing land. Camped on a nice hole of water, with splendid feed for the horses. Marked tree H.S. 33. Thermometer daylight 70°, noon 107°, very sultry. There are some fine gum and box trees in this creek and I fancy [tomorrow] [Page 40] tomorrow will run us out of the table land altogether. Birds seen – native companions, cranes, ducks, pigeons, cockatoos &c. November 2. Sunday. Left camp alone at 4, following the creek down on sometime a northerly, direction sometimes north east, and sometimes almost easterly course for about 8 miles, came suddenly upon a camp of natives. The women and children remained quiet, but the men were bold and aggressive, and poised their spears, the one nearest me, about 25 yards off, was in the act of throwing when a fired close past him. They all turned for the moment, but turned & faced me again. By this time all the party had their firearms in readiness (I had waited till the rest came up, having come upon some ducks, and wanting a gun, having only a rifle with me) and though we hoped they would not compel us to do them violence, we were sure the victory would be with us, though one of us at so close a range might have been speared, but after the firing of the shot, they pointed in the direction we had come from, gesticulating wildly, shaking their spears, and talking loudly what seemed to us to sound so like our “Go away”. There were only 7 men – fine stalwart fellows they were, perfectly naked, well made, tall and strong looking. Each had a bundle of spears and a boomerang. We made several attempts to parley with them in a friendly way, but it was evident they [wished]



[Page 41] wished us to go on, and we did so. After we had gone a little way, they set up a big shout and one cooey. We kept on our course for about 3 miles down the creek, and camped. Marked a large gum tree about 100 yards from camp, on right bank of creek, H.S. 34. The country travelled today opened out a good deal, and improved in extent. The travelling was good, plenty of good grass and waterholes every mile or so, some of them, though not very large, very deep, and I dare say permanent, fringed with water pandanus and big gum and box trees, and the country very good for any kind of stock. Very hot today since about 10 o'clock. Thermometer at daylight 70°, at 10 o'clock 82°. at noon 108°. This afternoon the sky is very much clouded over with heavy black clouds, and we hear thunder, though not close. We all of us wish for the thunderstorm to come, not for the water, but to cool the air, and I believe we will have some rain tonight. Have seen ducks, spoonbills, cranes, pigeons and kangaroos. On reaching camp burnt all the long grass immediately round it, so as to afford no cover for the blacks in the night, and though looking dry, found it very difficult to burn, have to fire it in a great many places. It would blaze up, and as suddenly go out. Kept a vigilant watch all night, but saw nothing to make us believe they had followed us up. November 3. Monday. Left camp at break of day and [Page 42] and following down the creek on a general N.E. Course, camped for a couple of hours on a really grand hole, over a mile long and about 60 yards wide and from 6 to 20 feet deep, fringed with big gum and box and water. This hole is almost 4½ miles lower down the creek than H.S. 34, and the country very good between the two, the valley being from 2 to 3 miles wide, pretty free from stones, and excellently grassed; low stony ridges to the east, and tableland to the west. Started about 9 o'clock and followed creek down for about 2 miles, and were just crossing it when we rode suddenly upon a camp of clacks of about 15 or 20. They all rushed away in all directions, but principally for the water: we gave them a friendly wave of the hand and a shout, and rode on. They followed on the opposite side of the watercourse for about a mile, evidently quite friendly inclined, one or two of them waving green boughs in their hands. When I first saw them I could not have been more than 10 yards away, and wonder they had not heard us me coming. They had 3 or 4 little dogs, appearing something like a cross with the dingo and the terrier. Keeping the left banks of the creek down for 6 or 7 miles, camped where another large creek joined this one on the left or west bank. Marked large bottle boab tree H.S.35 on a little grassy eminence just at the junction. The country for the first 3 miles after we saw the blacks (and where we camped for luncheon of 5 ducks and some peas, and caught 35 nice speckled fish, very much resembling trout) very good indeed. After a little spinifex and rough grass, the [ridges] [Page 43] ridges coming in close to the creek, making the travelling much slower and rougher; still plenty of water. The country to the east of us is evidently open & good just about here, but and expect it to get good again to the north soon where we saw the open country on block our way south. Last night the thunder and lightning held a rare carnival, with a little rain – heavy rain to the east, and the night was too cloudy for any hope of an observation, which I regret very much, as I should like to have fixed the point or tree accurately. Saw lots ducks today, and some kangaroos. Thermometer at daylight 70•°, noon 110°, and very sultry. Latitude and longitude could not be taken, but from dead reckoning



November 4 Tuesday. Melbourne Cup today, our course today from appearances will be a little rougher than that of Melbourne Flemington. Started at daylight and followed the creek down, crossing and re-crossing for about 5 miles – course generally N. by E; travelling in places pretty rough on both ourselves and horses, so resolved to make a short day and camp, and go in as far as we could in the way of luxeries – tinned meat and doughboys and coffee for breakfast; lunch porridge and sugar, with tea; dinner grill fish; supper stewed apples, and so ends our Cup festival. About one mile up the creek from here is a very fine deep hole, about ½ a [mile] [Page 44] mile long, and permanent. Trees at camp – gum and box. The ridges here are quite close on both sides, with occasional cliffs. Marked tree H.S. 36. The day very hot and cloudy, thermometer at daylight 78°, noon 108° in shade, and commencing to look like more thunder and lightning. This camp has only indifferent feed, but good water. November 5 Wednesday. Daylight start, and followed course of creek, which was full of stones and boulders, and enormous shelves of flat slippery rock. Travelling about 1 mile per hour, we camped in 3 hours on a nice little patch of feed for about 3 hours spell – water all the way this morning, but poor feed, and cliffs and ridges close in on both sides. Still cloudy, with occasional thunder, and very like rain. Last night there was thunder and lightning nearly all night; sometimes the stars would shew out for ½ an hour, then be clouded over again in few minutes; so had to keep a good look out to obtain an observation, which we fortunately did, and find we are not so far north by about 4 miles as I thought we were, and a little more to the east. Shot 2 cockatoos and 2 dicks this morning. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 109°. Started again, following the McLeod, which from the size of some of the waterholes now is worthy the name of river. Made about 2 miles, course [N.N.E.] [Page 45] N.N.E. Travelling even rougher than it was this morning – so much so that I had to shoot a fine thoroughbred mare, 5 years old, who fell down a steep incline, and injured herself severely. She will be a great loss, as she was a really valuable animal. None of us have yet any desire for horse-flesh, especially that of a favorite, but her hide will make fresh soles for our boots, which are beginning to look anything but stylish – patched with kangaroo and horsehide, and bound up with some saddlestraps and twine. We have been on the Government reserve for the last 4 or 5 miles, and must say it is most splendidly watered, but almost inaccessible for stock in most places, I trust we will soon be out of it. The hole we are camped on is a grand one, with high cliffs on both sides. We had some trouble to get down, and I don't know how we are going to get out. There are more bottle boab trees here than I have seen together anywhere else; marked one on left or east bank H.S. 37. There are also some very fine accacia, gum and box trees here one as big as a small house. Caught a good supper of fish. Night very close and sultry. We are now again on the K.I. estate Leopold Downs estate. November 6 Thursday. Left camp at sunrise, and following the McLead for a mile through the gorges found the travelling good under foot, but densely wooded with accacias and creepers, bottle



[Page 46] boab and other trees. Came upon a native art gallery in the cliffs, with drawing by natives of Emu, Kangaroo, Opossums, frogs, platypus, and a really fine, spirited, but rather crude drawing a a black fellow doing the corrobboree, the bust of a gin or native black woman, and a drawing almost the facsimile of a monkey. They were done in different colours, and shewed some artistic taste. The emu was shown as feeding, and the attitude was really good. I suppose in all there some 30 sketches in some 2 or 3 of the one kind. [Note: These drawings were shaded or filled in, not merely outlines] I remember Captain, now Sir George, Grey, mentioning that he had discovered traces of something similar on the Western coast, but I never thought it would fall to my lot to decipher discover such a grand display of native talent. I intend to publish with my diary a facsimile drawing of some of those we saw today. After passing the drawings, we had some rough work crossing the creek, full of immense stones and boulders, but after about 2 miles further we got clear of the gorge and the stones, and leaving the river on our right, cut the course of a well formed creek, emptying into the McLeod, and camped for lunch. After lunch we got onto some really first class country, and travelling N. by E. for about 7 miles again cut the course of the McLeod, camped on a fair sheet of water. Marked tree H.S.38. The travelling this afternoon was free from stones, and splendidly grassed open high flat country, until we came within ½ a miles of the river, when we again came upon stones and flat rocks, and a fine [Page 47] 5 year old roan mare, falling, injured herself so severely we had to shoot her. All the afternoon the thunder and lightning have been going it a good one, and the sky covered with heavy clouds; occasional spits of rain, but nothing to speak of. Tonight again black clouds hiding stars and moon; heavy thunder and vivid lightning all night, rendering it impossible to get an observation. There are some high stony mountains right across our track for tomorrow, so anticipate a rough day. Thermometer at sunrise 82°, noon 106°, four 80°. Saw kangaroos and ducks. One mountain, sugar loaf shape, N.E. from our camp, I called the Mt. Gordon after my dearest friend the late celebrated Adam Lindsay Gordon. There is an excellent watering place here at camp, fine sandy bank and beach for about 50 yards. November 7. Friday. Started early, and after about 4 hours hard climbing found I was only 1½ miles on my course. Horses and ourselves well worn out. Camped on top of a big mountain for an hour. Started again, and after a long time twisting and turning through and over all but impassable places, about an hour before sundown came again upon the McLeod, but at a part where there was no hope of our getting the horses down, so made the best of our bad luck, and carried water up the mountain – about 800 feet of a climb. Had just watered horses, and [had] [Page 48] had supper, and some of us had turned in, when the lightning and thunder once more commenced to flash and roll around. Flash after flash, awfully grand, but too close to be altogether pleasant, and deafening thunder, accompanied this time by very heavy rain for about 2 hours. Not a star nor the moon could be seen, and again we were compelled to relinquish all hope of an observation. Hot all day time, and thunder and lightning at night is very trying weather for our poor horses. The McLeod here has a fine channel, and is a grand watercourse, with nearly all its holes permanent, and water every mile or so. Today in coming along we passed over a very boldly defined copper reef, the metal itself or ore sticking out a foot high all over the ground. Not being well up in the quality of minerals I have brought some pieces just as I picked them up for assay. The reef is about ½ a mile from permanent water on the McLeod, which should, if the mine is any good, increase the



value. There are large numbers of reefs in this locality, but I could not examine them, being as I am bound to time, which is a great mistake, as it cripples a man's efforts terribly. There are also numbers of Quartz reefs, and a general gold bearing appearance over this part. Marked no tree at this camp. Thermometer at daylight 75°, noon 110°. Saw kangaroo. [Page 49] November 8. Saturday. Left camp at daylight, and got down the mountain safely, though it was a difficult job. Found good country – a fine valley leading us about 4 miles right down to the river again. Here we found fine holes of water, and nice open valley and camped. As yesterday, our horses and selves had a regular gruelling. As the cliffs on both sides of the river are very steep just here, have resolved to leave it if possible, and go straight over for the depôt, forming another depôt here, leaving Mr. Ricketson, Mr. Pitt, and Mr. McIlree the surveyor behind, taking Carl the shoeing smith, and go for the others at camp 21, and bring the party together here, so as to have a fair start for the inspection of Messers Lawrence and Adams blocks, named the Ord Downs. The McLeod here is a very fine sheet of water, and is joined by another very large creek just at our camp. I have marked a large bottle tree here H.S.40 – it is just at the junction, and easily seen. Lat. 16° 4' 40” Ɓ Hydri. November 9. Sunday. Went out accompanied by Mr. Pitt, and found a road up the steep hills, and I am going to try and get up it with 2 horses tonight, carrying up water for them and ourselves, and camp on the top, so as to have clear daylight start, for fear the country should be rough between this and the depôt. The day is again exceedingly hot; thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 100°. Marked [no tree] [Page 50] no tree H.S.41 The others while we were out caught some fish, and shot 2 whistling duck and 2 white cockatoos. Carl and myself shook hands with Ricketson (in charge), McIlree, surveyor & Pitt, informing them to keep good watch during our absence lest they should be surprised by natives. Then Carl & I started and got up the steep side of the valley all right, and made about 5 miles. Found water and grass in abundance. Also saw what we believe would have been a splendid road out, in a deep broad gully without any climbing. November 10. Monday. Camped here and started at 4 in the morning, Carl and I dividing our bit of damper, about ¼lb each, all we had brought with us, and a tin of jam between us. Travelled N.N.W. For about 14 miles of splendid country, water and good grass all the way; then had about 7 miles of mixed dreadful stony ridges and tableland, very rocky, and hard on our horses and ourselves; then cut the course of a splendid valley, with watercourse running through, and good water, fine soil, and thick green feed running pretty well on our course. Had a deal of trouble to get on to the valley, the bank being over 1,000 ft. high & very precipitous; took over 2 hours getting down. Followed it 15 miles; sw any amount of kangaroo, emu, and pigeons. Shot a pigeon for lunch, Carl missing 3 in succession. Camped on a nice little pocket of water, the horses and selves being thoroughly done up. Good feed. Shot 7 galars, and 4 parrots, very acceptable under circumstances. Marked no tree – H.S.42. Thermometer at noon 115º. November 11. Tuesday and 12 Wednesday. Started at break of day leading our [Page 51] tired horses. Still in valley; which had West by North course, and followed it until near 2, where we



struck the Lorimer. We had now come forty miles, and believed we had only 26 to go at starting, and still 29 miles away. Had a drink of tea, and pushed on very weary and tired, myself leading the 2 tired horses, and Carl driving them up behind. Night very dark and cloudy with occasional flashes of very vivid lightning, these flashes afforded me a chance of looking at the compass and occasionally we halted for the same purpose, when Carl would rest on his horse & fall off several times fast asleep, I could hardly arouse him, he was evidently very weary, but it was imperative that we should travel in the cool as we were both pretty well done up, but made a good course, and came out past Mt. Ricketson as day broke, and only about 5 miles from the depôt. Here I said I must take in the mare to the river, about a mile to the east, for a drink and leave with the horses. Carl must kept on the straight course, turned off, and did not follow. I took in the mare, let her go at the water, and walked on the rest of the distance, about 5 miles to the depôt, reached there about 8 o'clock, and to my dismay surprise found no Carl, and as he could as he could see the hills of the camp in front, and had the river on his right running right to it, and our old tracks on his left, and the gorge quite plain in front of him. I am very uneasy about him, as he complained at my going the round of the river, as his feet were sore; and so were mine, sorer than ever I hope they will be again. We had a collar bottle more than half full of water on the horse's neck and had a drink at the time I turned off. Carl had with him his gun, a shovel to open the depôt, and his revolver. He did not complain of being knocked up, or ask me to stay and spell, but simply growled about having to go a mile out of the straight course with the mare when he was so drowsy and footsore. When I looked round and found him not following, I cooeed loudly many times, and waited some considerable time, but saw nothing of him [and] [Page 52] and got no reply. He is very cross tempered, and I considered must have gone on straight for the depôt, for he has the reputation in camp of being an excellent bushman. 1 o'clock and no Carl. I am very uneasy now and don't properly know what to think, unless he has lain down for a sleep. He is inclined to go off and have a sleep wherever we are spelling – trust no harm has come to him. We waited until 11, hoping he would come, and we could get the shovel to open out our plant; then Mulcahy and Ashton commenced with 2 tin dishes, and are at it still. They had nothing left, only about a couples of ounces of dried apples, which they gave me immediately I arrived. I eat half, and the other half is waiting for Carl, with some tea, and the last of the sugar, until we reach the tucker, which is 4 feet down. I found the two men Mulcahy & Ashton fully dressed, legging & boots on and fast asleep under an overhanging rocky ledge near the edge of a deep waterhole: roused them up & found they had only once seen a blackfellow, and he came suddenly upon them, a fine specimen of a man. They were very glad to see me – very lonely. They had during my absence caught a couple of small alligators , crocodiles long-snouted Johnsonii ?...... , about 3 feet long, in the big net, but I have not personally seen such a thing alive yet. ½ past 1 and no Carl yet. Pat had just reached the provisions, and brought me a few biscuits. They tasted delightful, and I feel slowly growing my old self again. 5 o'clock and no Carl. If he does not come tonight I shall consider him lost, and must of course go tomorrow and try and find him. I hope it will turn out all right, and that he will be with us tonight. One thing, he cant fail to get water. [Page 53] 8 o'clock and no Carl. I have laid down, but know I cannot sleep. Though walking all last night and yesterday my body is tired, but the mind is troubled thinking of poor Carl, and what may be his fate; how hard it will be to find him or track him over stones, and what to do for the best I hardly



know – 3 of my partly considerably over 50 miles away with but a little supply of rations, the horses I have left here to improve looking worse much worse than ours that have been working, and it will take a week at least to get the party together again, if ever I succeed in finding poor Carl. November 13 – Thursday. Daylight and no sign of Carl, I am half out of my mind. I could not rest all night. Had a little hurried breakfast, and started to look for Carl, and try and pick up his track from where I last saw him. Think it is very hard & unfeeling Mulcahy & Ashton don't offer to go after all my hardship. I cannot help thinking that the two strong fellows that have been spelling around here so long & must know the surroundings never offered to go out even for a few hours to search for the missing man. I made & took a small damper with me for him. Followed the river where I had left my mare and saddle, found a track, and was almost sure it must be Carl's though very hard to identify, the place being loose sandy ground. My blanket had been opened and the tea used, so had still more hope. Returned to camp immediately on his track, where Carl had just reached before me. When I saw him I fairly broke down with joy, for I don't think I was ever so pleased in my life as as at that moment; for with all his faults of temper he is a very useful member of this party, and does his work well. Carl says he fell exhausted, and though he heard me cooey repeatedly he could not answer for weakness & loss of voice, and that he had to lie nearly half the day under a bush, when he felt somewhat better and [reached] [Page 54] reached the river in about a mile, and getting my track, tried to follow, but lost it. He seemed a much stronger man than myself, only 27 years old, and has seen service in the German army – a very handy man in the bush, a good shoeing smith, and can mend or make boots. Moved camp about 3 miles this evening, and found the horses very weak, even worse than I thought, but have hopes by a little care to pull some of them through yet, as though I don't like to think it, I am afraid they have been using them, and I am sure neglecting them, as the feed is first class all round for miles and water everywhere, but weak as they were they had been hobbled. Two of them fell down today, and had to be lifted up, and I noticed their withers were cut, which was not the case when I left them. It is a great disappointment, and a serious blow to the success of the expedition – in fact almost jeopardising it safety. I am sure the others will be down hearted when I return and they see them, as, our horses having done well, we were sure those left spelling would at least be fresh; but there is nothing for it now but about fully 500 miles of walking, and leading the horses with the packs, if they can be kept strong enough to carry them – a lively look out, and most us without boots, or almost so. Thermometer at daylight 70° at noon 98°. Called mountain at camp …........ Made to day about 2½ miles, horses could go no farther. H.S. 43 – marked no tree. [Page 55] November 14 – Friday. Have had to leave two horses behind at this camp, one, Forester, a chestnut entire who had worked and looked better than any horses during the trip. He is a very finely bred horse and a good performer, and would have been valuable over here. It will now give me great trouble, and put me to much extra expense to try and get my report in within the specified time, the 14th. Jan. It was very foolish on my part signing such an agreement, as no one can possibly form any idea of some of the country without seeing It. Through some of the country we have crossed, has been so stony, and the unforeseen delays that occur on a trip like this, had I not been bound by time, I could have saved all my horses, and had much easier times now. I am up early and late, and harased out of my life,but I am going to get the report through at all hazards if my health is spared me, and I can reach Panton & Osmans station and get 3 or 4 fresh horses and push on to the telegraph line. I should certainly advise any one coming out here exploring or inspecting



country to try and arrive about May June July August, as they would then have the best months of the year. Now is very hot, though no hotter than Riverina, still very trying to horses that are reduced in condition and have to struggle slowly on under heavy loads. If it were not that this country is so wonderfully watered, I dont know what would become of us, but there can be no question it is unequalled in that respect, and I think even healthier than quite as healthy as N.S.Wales. Passed over excellent country today, course nearly due [South [Page 56] South, river on our left hand. Made in all about 6 miles, and camped at H.S.22. Splendid feed, horses doing well and looking better already. Shot black duck and caught fish. I am still acting cook. Carl is quite strong again now, and able to help and do the shoeing. Thermometer at daylight 75°, noon 102°. November 15 – Saturday. Made a start at ½ past 5, and travelling south for 6 miles crossed the Lorimer and camped, time 8 o'clock on fine green feed and water, horses going into it greedily; sent Mr. Mulcahy and Carl up the river about a mile to look for game, and try and find the mare Jalis I had left behind 3 days ago – I hope she has not been speared. Country today very good indeed, and free from stones, and first class pastoral, openly timbered, and finely grassed. Frightened large flock of the largest spoonbills I ever saw just as we came into camp. Hope the boys will have the good luck to drop upon them and secure some, as I am now very anxious to save our provisions, as I find we shall be longer than I expected, and I should very much like to take my party through without any suffering if at all possible. Boys returned but did not get mare. They had shot 5 whistling ducks, making a good supper and breakfast for us. Went out myself at 1 o'clock this afternoon on foot alone accompanied by Ashton – day very hot, 114° in shade. Picked up mare's tracks, but was in a very rough [place] [Page 57] place, all flags & rocks and late in the day; but traced them sufficiently to concluded she had made for H.S.23 a little higher up the river, so determined to return to camp, and send there for her at daylight next morning. November 16 Sunday. Sent after the mare …. at daylight. Shot a fine black duck. Horses looking decidedly better. Hope they will keep on improving. This morning the sky is clouded over, and the weather fairly cool. Mulcahy and Carl returned – they did not bring the mare, but had shot a spoonbill – it was very large and fat and made a good soup. Started at noon, and crossed the range on a southerly course. Very few stones, and country splendid – after 3 miles came into a large valley running nearly east and west, and from 1 to 3 miles wide, with a fine creek in it. Followed easterly for about 6 miles and camped. Country passed over first class and free from stones. Passed on our way alongside a bush fire made by the natives. Thermometer at noon 90°. 17 November Monday. Started at ½ past 5, and still following the valley to the east, passing over first class country beautifully grassed camped on a nice little pocket of water after making about 6 miles. Had a billy of tea and started again making [about] [Page 58] about 3 miles, camped and had more tea and a snack; then crossed a stony point and fine creek of running water, and again came into the valley and camped on good water and green grass a foot high. The horses are certainly improving every day, though 2 of them fell today and had to be un-



packed & lifted up. The night is looking cloudy and very like rain. Thermometer at noon 95°. Large creek coming in from the south – called it the Laidlow after Mr. A. Laidlow of Wilcannia. November 18 Tuesday. Started at ½ past 11, and steering a shade west of south, and still following the valley over some of the very finest country, plenty of water all the way, after 2 stoppages of about a couple of hours each to freshen the horses, made in all about 11 miles, and camped on good water and grass. Last night we had very heavy rain, which lasted till 10 this morning, delaying our start, as everything we had, blankets and clothes, required drying, and it took us all our time to keep the provisions dry. I should think the fall would be a little over 2 inches. Thermometer at noon 90°. There are 3 cone hills very remarkable and just where the valley turns from East to South. I have named them …...... [Page 59] November 19 Wednesday. Started at ½ past 5, and still following valley to the south for about 8 miles, water all the way in a fine creek, and over magnificently grassed country, well but lightly timbered with thousands of bottle boab trees on the sides of the hills, and the average width about 1 to 3 miles, also some good box and gum trees in different places en route. This valley I daresay is close upon 40 miles long, and very superior and would suit either sheep cattle or horses. It would I think carry a large number of stock, and stand heavy stocking, Mitchell, Kangaroo and many fine grasses unknown by name to me being in great profusion here. It runs right up to camp 23 on the Lorimer. There are several fine springs in the bed of the creek, which no doubt at some part of the year is no mean stream. I have called this creek the ….. Thermometer at noon 98°, daylight 62°. Saw lots of kangaroos every day in the valley. We are following the valley sometimes miles out of our course, but cannot avoid it, as the horses at present are not strong enough to face the country in a direct line, and I think it better policy to make the long way round the short way home, a ridge or cliff to our left we wish to cross being quite 1000 ft high & very steep & almost inaccessible to us or our horses. The boys at the camp must be getting very anxious uneasy, as I should have been home Sunday or Monday, but of course I could not foresee what was to happen, and the state of the horses. I am getting very anxious about them, as it they do not get game, or can't catch fish, they must be on very short commons; but I dare not leave the horses for fear of some accident happening to them or the provisions, as the least [carelessness] [Page 60] carelessness with fire would be ruin to all of us, as I do not think they could readily put out a fire in some of the grass we have come through lately, which, though only about 2 feet high, is close, and would go like a house on fire. One remarkable feature of our trip so far is that we have no been troubled by mosquitoes. Left valley, started up mountain at 3 o'clock . Good travelling for about ½ a mile, and came upon a splendid spring with green feed, 2 feet high. Watered horses and tried to go on, but a bad pinch of about 70 yards almost perpendicular caused 2 of the pack horses to fall and roll over several times. Fortunately neither were seriously hurt, so we unpacked them all and carried on the loading, and then we got on swimmingly up the rest of the way, and camped on the top at dusk in good green feed. All very tired & weary tonight. November 20 Thursday. Started at 5, and steering south by east down a splendid valley about 1½ mile wide, beautifully grassed and no stones; with fine creek and some really good holes of water, made about 8 miles, and camped for dinner. Saw lots of kangaroos and galars and pigeons, and some fine gum timber. I think this creek runs into the McLeod. I have called it ….... The morning



pleasantly cool, and sky clouded. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 92°. Started again about 3, steering S.E. for about 4 [miles] [Page 61] miles, and through one of the pack horses knocking up had to camp off water. Good green feed, (and water with us for ourselves) but none for horses. Sky very black and heavy, and like rain. I trust we shall reach the boys by Saturday. Today we had one very bad patch of stones for about ¼ of an hour, which took us considerably over an hour to cross, and knocked the horses about terribly. November 21 Friday. Morning very cloudy. No rain fell last nigh, though we put up the tent, and made every preparation. Looks very like it today. Moved from camp at 5 a.m. o'clock, steering E.S.E., so as to make to water for the horses as early as possible. Cut it in about 2 miles and had breakfast, and gave the horses good rest: valley travelled through excellently grassed. Found at this camp about 3 feet of well made cord twisted quite equal to cord of our own manufacture, and almost 2/3 the thickness of an ordinary clothes line, and though evidently exposed for a long time, quite strong. Thermometer at daylight 75°, noon 93°. Moved from camp at ½ past 9, and steering anyhow so as to avoid bad climbing, crossed the …...? creek, and got into some very finely grassed gorges with enormously steep sides, and had to twist about in all directions. Finally one of the pack horses knocked up, and we had to stay on top of a tableland. Just got tent up when rain came down in earnest, and lasted nearly all night. [Page 62] November 22 Saturday. Morning cloudy and like more rain. Kept mizzling till about 8, when we made a start, travelling S.E. for about 2 miles. Struck creek again, and got completely blocked between it and an immense valley, with sides almost perpendicular; and the creek being too steep sided, we had to return almost the same way as we had come for about 1½ mile, still over very difficult country for horses with heavy packs; and they were constantly falling, and had to be unpacked. Reached a narrow gorge, and determined to try and run it down to the McLeod, as it seemed to bear that way. Followed it about 2 miles, and came upon good feed and water. The horses being very tired and the night threatening more rain, thought it best to camp and get the tent up to save the provisions. The last 2 days I don't think we have made more than 3 miles in a straight line though we must have travelled 20, often stopping unpacking and spelling 4 and 5 times a day, so as to get the horses along. Thermometer at noon 92°. November 23 Sunday. No rain fell last night. Morning cloudy and close. Left camp at 6, and following down course about south east for a mile, ran into the valley of the creek, and following it for about ½ a mile through fine country to when it empties into the McLeod right at our marked [tree] [Page 63] tree, depôt H.S. 40, and with the boys once more. How glad they were to see us! They had had a rough week of it, principally subsisting upon boab and wild peaches, and some of them were out gathering fruit when I returned. We saw Pitt first, and he looked a little pale, and lighter; then Ricketson, and he appeared a little lighter; and McIlree seemed if anything worse than the rest, though they were all in good spirits, and doing their duty bravely and well. They had looked well after their horses, and not worked them, consequently they were fresh and fit to work. I immediately set to work, and within ½ an hour they were all hard at it on a good sized doughboy



each, the sweetest, they say they ever ate, and full of hopes, and talking about home and friends, and how long it would take to reach them once again. What a weight of anxiety is now off my mind, and how light hearted I feel to see us all together once again, and everyone safe and right. I feel like a new man altogether, for no pen can tell how anxious I have been about the 3 boys left with so little, and for so long a time. Had I been able to leave the horses and provisions, I might have reached them 2 or 3 days sooner, but I have no confidence in Mulcahy, he has not behaved right any part of the trip, and I find now he is trying to poison the minds of the others against me, because I have taken the charge of the provisions out of his hands after find him cooking 4 Johnny cakes in one night, and never seeing a sign of them in camp, besides the wonderful disappearance of the sugar, and eating the dried [apples] [Page 64] apples. A slight shower fell soon after we arrived, and it is still very cloudy. Thermometer at noon 95°. Had a supper of apples stewed with thickening of flour, and the boys looking much better all camped together once again, and some of us singing. Baked a fine damper for tomorrow's breakfast, with a tin of Sydney preserved meat, which is excellent, and has been a good stand by to us during the trip. It is splendid eating, and full of strength – in fact first class, and far ahead of any dried meat. I only wish we had more of it – only 12 tins left now, but expect to get a fair supply of game this week. Horses looking better. No more rain last night. Country around looking first class. Buried frying pan and blankets under depôt 2. November 24 Monday. Horses looking better. Morning quite cloudy and like rain, but very cool. After a good breakfast all together left depôt No.2 camp at 6 o'clock and proceeded south by east to inspect the country of Messrs. Lawrence and Adams, call the “Ord Downs”, of the extend of one million of acres. Made about 2 miles, and camped to give the horses a chance, the feed being good; the boys beginning to look their old selves again. Had a grand luncheon of boiled wild peaches, flour and sugar. We are camped under a tree loaded with the native peach – at least that is what I have called it, which if cultivated would, I think, ripen into a first class fruit. Thermometer at noon 88°, daylight 68°. [Page 65] I am now about 4 or 5 a good few miles off the boundary of the Country called the Leopold Downs, and on the Ord Downs. The vast extent of fine country on the Leopold is simply wonderful, and the Company are to be envied their magnificent estate, which if they are lucky enough to get it stocked without any serious losses, will soon return them large profits; for there can be no doubt it is capable of carrying over a million of sheep without any improvements or expense as to water, and should be, if well managed, a veritable Bonanza of wealth . The ranges or table land we are now in, and through which the McLeod here flows, I have called the Amos. I have as yet experienced no hot winds. Often on our trip, after severe climbing we have discovered that a few miles out of our course would have saved us some very rough work, and from the very fine valleys intersecting these hilly parts, there is no doubt that to any one acquainted with the country, travelling will be found to be comparatively easy; but there must be a first and he generally has to buy his knowledge dearly, which had been my case on many occasions this trip. Thunder and lightning, and about an inch of rain again tonight. For the last 6 weeks there has never been less than 3 or 4 thunder storms and showers each week. I suppose this is one of the principal reasons that all during the worst of the summer here every few miles will bring you on green feed and water everywhere. Had two splendid boilings of native peaches, and everybody enjoyed them very much. No observation. We may say we are now [fairly]



[Page 66] fairly on our return journey – homeward bound, with visions of town luxuries and comforts; but we have not fared badly – only had hard work. November 25 Tuesday. Started at ½ past 6, steering S.E. up a very nicely grassed valley. Gradually rose on a fine tableland in about 3½ miles, where we camped and had some tea – good pocket of water, and green feed. Two of our pack horses fell down this morning and had to be assisted to rise. Large conical mountain close to halting place, which I mentioned before as Mount Gordon, in memory of very dear friend, the late talented and unfortunate Adam Lindsay Gordon, with whom I had the pleasure of spending many very happy weeks both at Lake Hawdon, a station of my uncle's and at Gordon's own home near McDonnell Bay, where I stayed with him was his guest for over a fortnight. Made another start, and descended into a nicely grassed valley with some few stones, but not bad. Rested after about 2 miles, and had a pot of tea. Started again about 4, and had splendid travelling down the valley about due east for about 2½ miles. Fine green grass and good land all the way. Camped and marked tree H.S.56. Latitude 16° 5'40” Achernar and ? Gruis. Another thunder storm with rain this [afternoon.] [Page 67] afternoon. Had to unpack and put up tent to protect provisions, and should not be surprised if we have more tonight, as the distant thunder is rumbling, and the sky heavy with black clouds. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 92°. Everyday here there is a cool breeze blowing, and we have never yet experienced a hot wind, which is a great relief; and I am quite sure if we had Sydney summer we should be all knocked up. On each side of us there are low stony hills finely grassed and of no height, and do not seem at all steep or difficult to cross. This valley is about 1½ mile wide and 6 in length, with a north side. A thunder storm with a little rain tonight. As some of the pack horses are quite done up, I will go on ahead tomorrow, and try and find a good camp to move straight to. November 26 Wednesday. Morning inclined to be hot. Had breakfast and went out alone at ½ past 4 to look at route, and for a good camp. Travelling East over very good part of valley for 1½ mile, well grassed and watered, climbed stony hill, at the foot of which ran a very fine river, with a reach of over a mile straight of fine water, and an open valley, but a cliff blocking getting down; the opposite side, having fine gentle slopes. Returned to camp, which I will shift tomorrow on to river. Carl is busy today, assisted [by] [Page 68] by all of us, trying to make some horse-shoe nails, and as he is a good tradesman, I think he will succeed, if we can only make the old horse-shoes hot enough without a bellows. Our larder today was improved by the addition of two black ducks, a black cockatoo, and 24 small fish – Marked tree H.S. 57. We could not get heat enough with the logs alone, so must try and manufacture bellows. Beat out a few copper rivets we had – they are a very good make-shift for nails. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 110°. Day still cloudy and threatening another thunder storm. Found today another new kind of fruit, the first of the sort we have seen. It resembles a pomegranate in shape and colour, also slightly in taste, about as large as a small apple. Made splendid feed stewed, tastes exactly like rhubarb. Latitude 16° 6' 40” Achernar.



November 27 Thursday. Morning very cool, thermometer at 60°. Heavy clouds, thunder and a good deal of lightning; raining heavily a little to the north of us. Left camp at ½ past 5, steering south for gap to get down easily to the river. Went on ahead myself, others following my track. Country travelled over, about 5 miles, really excellent and finely grassed. Had to return and follow down ridges near river, as we could not descend, it being too steep on this side. Passed a fine loquat or pomegranate tree, and gathered about ½ a bushel. They are simply delicious when stewed – quite equal to rhubarb, and very similar in taste. Camped on a nice little hole of [water] [Page 69] water with good feed at 9 o'clock. Boys gone over to river to shoot and fish, myself remaining in camp to write up my papers and cook. Had some boab fruit today boiled and eaten with sugar. It also is very excellent, and a good substitute for flour. The water it is boiled in we all like very much – something like a new gooseberry wine. Caught 24 fish, and shot 3 ducks. Marked tree (big box) H.S. 58. Slight thunderstorm with rain again today. A very fine upstanding roan pack-mare got down during the night with weakness, and had to be shot. Cut off about 20 lbs of the best of her flesh to try it. November 28 Friday. Left camp at 7, and camped again at ¼ past 8. I went on ahead on foot to find camp a little earlier. Morning close and warm. Sky clouded and like more rain. Thermometer at daylight 75°, noon 112°, travelled on a northerly course for about ...miles and camped. I am trying to get a good crossing for the weak horses where the creek runs into the river. I have called this creek the ….. It waters a really excellent little valley, well grassed, free from stones, and with some very good timber, box and gum. Marked tree H.S. 59. Splendid feed at this camp. Sent out in all directions to try and find a way down the cliff, but found we could only get out to the north, so determined to return southerly for 7 or 8 miles, and try that way. Country here very good. [Grilled] [Page 70] Grilled some horse-flesh, which was not nearly so dry and insipid as we expected, and all liked it. It has a sweetish taste that I do no personally care for. I made a stew for the evening of it, with some peas and flour, and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The flesh shewed any amount of oily fat and juice, as and the mare was improving in fair condition. Latitude 16° 9' 41” Achernar. ° November 29 Saturday. Last night fine and clear. Left camp at 7 this morning, as we intend only to go a mile on to some more good feed and water, so as to fresh the horses a little. They are looking well this morning and only for being pushed for time we could fatten them in a month. Travelled south, and camped on a fine hole covered with lillies, and with some trees on its banks. Marked large bottle boab tree H.S. 60. November 30 Sunday. Fine morning. Left camp at ½ past 5, and steering a general southerly course for about 6 miles, with good feed and water all the way, country excellent and very few stones, and valley about 2 miles wide, camped on a nice little hole of water at ½ past 7. Fine green feed for the horses, which they are paying particular attention to. Would like to remain on it a while, but cannot afford the time. Due east from our camp, and about one mile distant, is a very prominent mountain, high over [the]



[Page 71] the other hills, and slightly conical shaped. I have called it Mount … Marked tree H.S.61. Latitude … Thermometer at daylight 68°, noon 95°. Had snack at 8, and dinner at 11, and the boys went out hunting for game and fruit. We prefer the loquats and the boab to our dried apples, though the latter are excellent quality. Of course we always assist them with a little flour, just to give them a body. Another thunder storm this afternoon; heavy wind and rain. Boys returned with a good supply of fruit and a pheasant. December 1 Monday. Morning cool. Left camp at ¼ to 6, and steering south up valley, had about a mile of low stony ridges well grassed, and then about 3 miles of a fine valley – splendid feed, and nice little pockets of water all the way; good travelling, free from stones, soil a kind of brown loam. Then about 1½ miles miles of stony ridges, well grassed, and into another valley with fine green feed and water. Followed it for about 1½ miles, and camped at 9 o'clock. Country passed over today first class. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 105°. Marked tree H.S. 62. Left camp at ¼ to 11, and travelling south up valley for about 1½ miles, camped on a little hole of water with good feed. Good travelling, free from stones, and really good country – low stony ridges on both sides of us. Country to the west looking [very] [Page 72] very open and fine right up to the Pearson table range. Moved camp at 3 o'clock, and still following valley, made one mile over fine country. Camped for the night on water and splendid feed. Went out on horseback N.E for about 8 miles. Saw the Adam with fine water holes, and some really well grassed stony ridges and open valleys. Latitude 16° 19' 21”. December 2 Tuesday. Left camp at 5, myself going on ahead for about 7 or 8 miles. Found fine camp and good feed and water – in fact grand good feed all the way, with occasional small holes of water in the creek. Found I should here have to cross the river, so as to try and make my course as near as possible. Country travelled over this morning really good, b eing a valley about 1 mile wide, with low stony ridges well grassed on both sides, and good for either sheep or cattle, sheep especially should do well here – in fact most of the country I have seen, notable the Leopold Down, the Pearson Table land, and the Ord Downs are the most suitable for sheep. The grasses are not at all coarse or rank, and mostly short and of course sweet. Marked tree H.S. 63. Thermometer at daylight 71°, at noon 90°. Day cloudy and like rain. Horses looking better every day. Latitude 16° 26' 51” Achernar. Made about 1 mile more over good country and camped. Went out south by west in the afternoon for about 8 miles, and found very fine country [with] [Page 73] with the river near me most of the time. December 3. Wednesday. Left camp at 20 minutes past 5, and steered an easterly course for about 4 miles – then south of east for about 5 miles – good feed and water all the way, Mitchell and blue grass predominating, and really fine pastoral country; I think nearly as good as any we have yet seen. Camped on a small creek (full of water, and first class feed) at 10 o'clock. All hands gone out this afternoon fishing and hunting, but brought back no fish nor game. Last night the mosquitoes troubled us for the first time, Up till now, thank goodness, we have been perfectly free from these pests. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 92°. Cloudy again this afternoon, and like rain. Marked tree H.S.64.



December 4. Thursday. Left camp at 6 on foot, accompanied by Mr. McIlree, surveyor. Went over about 2 miles to river, which is running slightly strongly. Found it a very grand watercourse, but difficult to approach from the west, but easy of access from the east, and running as near as possible from south to north. Returned to camp about 9, and resolved to spell till about 2, and then move on for a few miles. Country here and to the south for miles first class. This river runs through blocks …... of King and Boyd, (which) [Page 74] which are really first class good in a pastoral sense, and as good as anything we have seen - splendid blue and Mitchell grass valley four miles wide and 20 long – fine river and creek about 2½ miles from it, running parallel. There is a long mountain or tableland running on our right about 10 miles long. I have called it the King tableland after Mr. King of King and Boyd. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 100°. Mosquitoes bad again last night. Left camp at one oclock, and steering south by east over very nicely grassed tableland, camped on fair feed and water after about 4 miles. December 5. Friday. Two of horses having strayed last night, I had to follow their tracks for about 2 miles, consequently did not get away until 7 this morning. Made about 4 miles east by south, and camped for a few hours. Had a slight shower of rain last night. Thermometer at daylight 72°, noon 90°. Cool breezes all day. Camped for a feed, and then made down to the river, a most wonderful descent of about 1000 feet in four terraces, and about 1¼ miles in distance from the top partly across the valley to the river. The first descent of about 100 feet was very rugged and steep – then a sort of plateau of about 150 yards, then another but more gradual descent of about 200 feet; then a long slope of nearly half a mile gradually and easily down; then two other small descents, and then the river flat. This is a splendid valley or river channel, being over 2 miles wide. Close alongside of the first descent is a very fine waterfall; not in the river, but from the (mountain) December 6 Saturday. Left camp at midday and travelling East up long slope of hill from the river rising for about 2 miles reached the top. Followed our course for about ½ a mile, and was again blocked by a steep and abrupt descent into the apparently very fine valley, but quite impossible for us to get down. Followed along crown of hill for about 2 miles, and were stopped by a steep descent into a creek emptying into the river, so had to descend again about 1½ miles into the valley of the river, where we camped on a hole and got a fish supper. Today very severe on both horses and men, all of the horses going very gamely however. This country is excellent in a pastoral sense, though it is stopping us, and forcing us to do miles and miles of extra travelling. G. Ashton gave in about 50 yards from camp last night. I made some gruel, and sent Ricketson with it back to him. He then came on all right. Timber at camp very large peppermint and gum. South from here about 28 of 30 miles is an immense mountain I called Mount Abbott, after (T.K.) [Page 76] T.K. Abbott Esq., PM. of Sydney. All too tired and marked no tree. Shot some cockatoos today, and had stew. Thermometer at daylight 68°, noon 93°. Shower, heavy thunder and lightning about 2 o'clock, breeze. Caught supper of fish. December 7. Sunday. Left camp a 7, and travelling east for about a mile, camped upon in a fine defile or pass, with fine running water and green feed 2 feet high, and ½ an inch broad on the blade. Camped at 8 o'clock for the day. This is a really wonderful place – cliffs on both sides of us



from 100 to 200, and even 400 feet high in places; the depth about 60 yards wide with splendid box and gum timber, 3 and 4 feet in diameter and 150 feet high, straight and good for splitting and sawing, some of them 50 feet without a limb. About ½ a mile from the entrance is a small waterfall about 50 feet which we intend to make a road round in the side of the hill tomorrow, for the horses to get over. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 100°. Thunder and lightning, with slight shower of rain at 4 o'clock. Fine breeze. Caught good feed of fish. Came upon some large fig trees heavily loaded at the camp – some very fine creepers and ferns. Trees box, gum, palm, accacia. December 8. Monday. Two have gone up to the waterfall to make a road, one attending to horses, and the others trying to heat [hollow] [Page 77] hollow log sufficiently for Carl to beat out some old horse shoes into nails, as unfortunately Lasseter, when we got the shoes and nails, only put us in nails for 25 sets of shoes, instead of 75. We found the error before reaching Port Darwin, and managed to obtain a few there but not nearly sufficient. Marked tree H.S. 67. Found another new fruit this afternoon, a kind of plum, and stewed a billy of it for supper. It is excellent, and as the trees around camp are heavily laden, we intend to do it justice. Had a fine shower of rain, about ½ an inch, this afternoon accompanied by thunder &c. The want of these nails & Mulcahy & Ashston illtreatment of the horses, has caused me very heavy loss, compelling me to go hundreds of miles – nearly 400 – out of my road to avoid ranges that I could have crossed with shod horses. (The Leopold & thus straight into King Sound) December 9. Tuesday. Left camp at daylight following course of defile easterly for about ¼ mile, then up steep side of precipice where boys had made a road yesterday, then down again into defile. This took us about 4 hours. Boiled billy of tea and one of plums; then followed defile easterly for another mile, where it took us into a fine open valley running parallel to the Adam river, or north and south. Camped on a creek with good water and fine feed. Picked up several specimens of ore in the pass today, very like silver ore. Thunder lightning and rain again tonight and no possibility of obtaining an observation. Feed excellent here – country a little stony, but first class pastoral country, principally (Mitchell) [Page 78] Mitchell grass. Horses looked well today. Thermometer at daylight 72°, noon 95.° I have called the pass the Forrest Broome pass, after Mr. A Forrest Sir F'Aapier Broome, the W.A. Explorer Governor of West Australia. As I was coming along today, about a mile ahead of the party, and just where the pass opens out into a big valley, I suddenly came upon 6 blacks – 3 men, 2 lubras, and a youth about 17. They were evidently going to use the pass on their way to the Adam river. We were within 12 or 15 yards of each other when I first saw them. I spoke, and they seemed thunderstruck, and remained stationary for a minute or so; then without speaking a word or uttering a sound, they turned off up the hill, and a steep climb they had. I spoke several times but could not induce them to parley. They seemed quite panic-stricken and were not nearly so big or powerful looking as the other blacks we have seen, not one of the party being over 5ft. 6 or 5ft. 7. December 10 Wednesday. Left camp at 6, and travelling easterly crossed a big valley and climbed a big sloping ridge that took us ¾ hour to reach the top. It must have been over a mile from top to bottom, but gradual and rather stony, well grassed all the way. Then along the top for ½ mile, and down into a creek with fine green Mitchell grass and good timber and water, where we camped for a feed; then about 2½ miles easterly across another running creek, over some stony but well



grassed ridges, where heavy thunderstorm coming on, we camped on good feed and water in deep creek. Rainfall about ¾ inch. Night too cloudy for any hope of an observation. Marked no (tree). [Page 79] tree, all too tired and wet. December 11 Thursday. Left camp at daylight, climbed stony rise, and tried to make an easterly course, but was stopped in every possible way by deep ravines, and stony fissures in the earth. At last I went on alone on foot, and after about 3 hours weary work found what I believe will prove a way out of our difficulty, and pretty well on our course. Today we must have travelled over 12 miles, and not above 3 on our course. Very heavy and severe both on men and horses. Heavy thunderstorm again this afternoon, and the air quite pleasant and cool. Thermometer at daylight 65°, noon 100°, evening 80°. Most of our boots in a very bad state. Marked tree H.S. 70. The last two nights we have noticed a great number of fireflies sparking in the darkness. I saw today from the top of one of the hills what appeared to be big watercourse coming from the south-east. Hope if I have any luck to cut its course tomorrow or next day. Camped on good feed in narrow creek or defile. Had to water horses with leather buckets. December 12 Friday. Left camp at 7 this morning, and following defile due east, travelling over immense boulders for about 1½ miles, myself ahead on foot, found it opened out into a fine red soil valley, with green Mitchell and blue grass a foot high. Camped to give the horses a spell a few hours, to rest their feet, as all of them have now lost shoes, (some being) [Page 80] some being entirely barefooted, and the way they face this country unshod is a marvel to all of us. Determined to have another try to make horse-shoe nails out of old shoes, so got all hands to work, and our good star being on the ascendant, Carl our shoeing smith succeeded. We will spell here tomorrow and get what we can made. Unfortunately our progress with out rude appliances is very slow, but they are will made, and very little inferior to the proper article, so our troubles are once again temporarily over. Marked no tree, too busy at nails. Last night two birds of the kingfisher species kept us amused – one part of their whistle or song was almost a repetition of a part of the overture to La fille de Madame Angot. Mulcahy betraying signs of crankiness in his actions and talk, and the others having words with him about being lazy and not working fairly. December 13. Saturday. Morning cloudy and cool. All hands busy helping smith make horse shoe nails. Thermometer at daylight 69°, noon 90°. Our friends the chattering birds gave us quite a rondelay last night. The bush is full of birds of exquisite note, and as whistlers not to be surpassed. Mulcahy still acting strangely, and taking opium, though strongly advised not to, saying he could not sleep without it. Getting on fairly well with the nails. December 14 Sunday. Beautiful cool morning. Thermometer at (daylight) [Page 81] daylight 65°, noon 88°. Left camp at ½ past 1, going on ahead of party on east by south course, and still followed creek for 1 mile – country passed over excellent – then left creek on an easterly course for about 4 miles over splendidly Mitchell-grassed stony rises with rich chocolate soil and good water. Camped in a valley surrounded by broken hills – good grass and water all around for miles. I have called the creek the …. Latitude …...



December 15 Monday. Beautiful cool night. Thermometer at daylight 65°, noon 92°. Left camp at 6, going on ahead of party course almost due east for about 6 miles over broken and irregular stony ridges, all well grassed and springs and water almost every mile with green grass all the way. This country looks very like a gold bearing country – decomposed granite slate on edge, and quartz, reefs on every hill. It seems a pity the W.A. Government had not known of the expedition and sent out a geologist. Struck the course of a fine river running strong from south to north, with a slight bearing to the east. The bed of this river, which I have called the Laurence, after …..... is of fine gravel or coarse sand, and thickly intermixed with mica – if you take up a handful and throw it down again, the palm of your hand will fairly glisten again with the fine specks of mica, and nearly all the stones are thickly encrusted with it. There are also some immense boulders of fine grey granite, almost like marble. The banks are low and easy of approach (from) [Page 82] from either side. Numerous small creks with pipe clay sides & slate on edge in the bottom crossed to day. December 16 Tuesday. We are camped on the river today, making more horse-shoe nails, and myself and McIlree out looking for Mulcahy, who stayed behind yesterday, saying he would follow up the tracks, as he had a severe pain in his head. He certainly has shown strange symptoms of late, and seems to ll of us to be off his head, and whenever there is anything like work he complains of pains, but he hs never missed a meal,on the contrary, being the heartiest eater and heaviest smoker in the camp. He has become unpopular with the other members of the party, who have repeatedly accused him of not doing his fair share, and I find he has been in the habit of taking large doses of opium, which would of course account for his strange ways. This last week he has be wanting to go on by himself over to King's Sound, thinking he could reach it easily in 3 weeks, but persisting in calling the Lorimer river the Ord, though the one runs from west to east, and emptying into different sides of the Gulf. These delays are now becoming serious, as we have none too much rations for the safe carrying through of the other members of the party. He is by far the most powerful man amongst us, and very vain of his strength. I am afraid something will happen when he is so self-willed, and if he should go away on his own account, I don't believe he would reach the Sound, s in my opinion he is a poor bushman, and latterly I have had a deal of trouble and delay with Ashton, who it appears left Sydney suffering from a bad disorder and is now (unable) [Page 83] unable to come along, although he has had every encouragement, such as more provisions, and his watch kept at night for him. I am afraid he is not as grateful as he should be to those of the party who have done so much for him, and the others, along with myself, believe he does not try his best. He and Mulcahy have had none of the privations and hardships of the others, and not nearly as much work, as Mulcahy for the first 6 weeks never either kept watch or went after a horse, and Ashton you could not send anywhere, as he would always get lost, and give you a journey to find him: but I do hope we will be able to bring them along, if they will only assist us by doing their best, and the opium I must take away from Mulcahy, if it is not too late, as he seems to have given himself up to this pernicious enjoyment altogether. Mr. McIlree and myself both on horseback, searched for some considerable time for Mulcahy, whom we at last heard cooey from a waterhole near our tracks. We felt a great relief at finding him once again. He presented a very peculiar appearance, like man after a heavy fit of drunkenness – not physically weak, but sort of half



imbecile, and scarcely caring to come with us, and kept repeating “Boss, you are a good fellow, too good to me, more than I deserve. You should have left me, and not delayed, and risked the party &c., but it will be made up to you” &c. Such was all we could get out of him, and it is quite evident he will not try to come on. We put him on one of the horses, McIlree and self walking in turn by his side and got him safe down to camp. Made him some hasty pudding, and gave him some hot tea, then his supper about an hour afterwards. [Page 84] He eats very heartily, and so does Ashton, and both have strong lusty voices, but seem to have lost all heart, and the rest of the party are getting discouraged at the many and serious delays they are causing us. I have used every means to induce them to rally and pluck up heart, but it seems all to be totally lost upon them. It is a very trying situation for me, and I trust God will guide me, and help me to do what is right and just to all I have in my charge. Mulcahy acknowledged riding horses in depôt out kangarooing, also to taking apples, biscuits, jam, flour and peas, and to be unworthy of forgiveness or to remain one of the party. We all forgave him the wrong he had done us freely and truly. December 17 Wednesday. Fine morning after very cool night. Thermometer at daylight 60° Mulcahy and Ashton both looking better, but both came to me, and said if I would allow them, they would take 3 weeks' rations and camp for a spell on the river, and perhaps I would send help after them. I tried all in my power to induce them to struggle on a little further, if only as far as the Wilson river, but could not alter their determination. Called the rest of the party together, and as they one and all thought it was best under the circumstances, I had to consent, so with Mr. Ricketson's assistance, measured out to them 20 pannikins of flour, 10 of white sugar, 10 of peas, 15 of dried apples, 4 lb of tea, and a tin of preserved meat. Left them two double barrel guns &c, with (about) [Page 85] about 150 cartridges, fish hooks and lines, and camped on the Laurence river. We then packed up the remainder, and with sad hearts bade them goodbye, and firmly advised them to get either fish or game, as game is fairly plentiful around them. Ashton and Mulcahy both expressed a desire to write a few lines in my diary, and in the presence of all hands I allowed them. Ashton also forwarded by me, a note to his aunt in England, but Mulcahy, though I earnestly desired him to, would not write to either wife or parents, all he would say being 'They will see you at no loss, old man “. It is dreadful state of affairs, the two biggest and strongest of our party collapsing like this, and has had a very depressing effect on me, though I must no show it, for fear of causing a despondent feeling in the others. I do hope we shall now have fair travelling, and reach Panton and Osman's station and send back horses and relief to those left behind. They have had any amount of provisions, meat excepted, sometimes 5 meals a day, and never less then 3 [Page 86] Left the river this morning at 8, and travelling on east by south course for 5 or 6 miles over excellent country, ¼ mile through fearful gorge and bad sidelings, crossed three or four large creeks with good holes of water, and camped for our mid-day rest. Had a good luncheon, all of us looking rather down-cast at 2 of our party being absent, the others cheering me up by words of kindness and praise. Left camp again at 3, myself taking a billy and some provision on ahead to pitch camp and have supper ready when the others came up. Followed course of fine creek easterly for about 3 miles, and camped on good feed and water for the night. Passed some remarkable conical



mountains on right hand or south side today, the tallest of which is about a mile west of our tonight's camp. I have called it Mount Boyd, after Mr. Boyd of King and Boyd Sydney, and the creek I have called the King creek, after his partner, Mr. King of Sydney. There is some splendid timber on this creek, and the country all around is first class. Marked tree H.S. 75. Latitude …. This creek is one of the heads of the Stockdale river. Thermometer at daylight 60°, noon 90°. I have called it the Stockdale. December 18 Thursday. Left camp at 6.20, and following course of King creek due east 4 miles, with fine grass and water all the way, camped for a billy of tea, and ½ an hours spell for the horses; then started again still following creek due east for 4 miles further and camped again for 3 hours. The King creek is splendidly timbered, and runs in a perfectly straight line for 12 miles without a bend of (any sort) [Page 87] any sort. I never saw a watercourse anything approaching it for straightness. We have had fine travelling all morning, free from stones, and straight on our course. Party in good spirits accordingly, and hope to reach the Negri a few days after Christmas. Started on ahead of party down the King, and in about 1½ mile came upon a fine hole with ducks on it, and as I had only my rifle and revolver waited for the party to come up, when Ricketson shot 2. Continued on East by South, leaving the King, and in about 2 miles came on a fine creek emptying into it. Followed it down almost ½ a mile S.S.E., and camped on a fine hole with good feed and only about ¼ mile off the King creek. Good travelling all the afternoon. Country decomposed granite, splendidly grassed with Mitchell and other good grasses. Isolated rugged hills to be seen in every direction. Thermometer at daylight 60°, noon 95°. Marked tree H.S. 74 – should be 76. December 19 Friday. Fine cool morning. Thermometer at daylight 60°, noon 90°. Left camp at ½ past 5, and travelling due east for 2½ miles, struck the course of a large creek, with fine timber and large good holes. Ricketson shot 2 ducks. Creek running from North to south, and I believe joining the King river, about 2 miles south of us. I have called this creek the Boyd. Made 2 miles further, and camped for a snack at 8 o'clock. Left again at ¼ to 9, and still travelling easterly for about 5 miles, camped for midday spell on good water and fine feed. Country travelled over (this) [Page 88] this morning could hardly be surpassed – Mitchell and blue grass, open downs lightly timbered, and almost free from stones; splendidly watered, soil red and brown chocolate loam, very rich indeed. Open country for about 8 miles to the south, and 6 to the north – every now and then huge isolated hill, sometimes two or three together, and about 6 miles northerly enormous rugged hill or mountain about 14 or 20 miles long. I have called it the Allen, after Sir Wigram Allen of Sydney. This is a most picturesque mountain, and very remarkable. To the south a range of mountain running parallel to our course, and about 8 miles off, and the ground a gradual slope from our track right down to them. For scenery I never saw anything finer than what we saw today. Judging from the large tributaries running into the King, it must now be a large stream , so I have determined to call it a river. About 2 miles before we camped for lunch we crossed another large creek coming from the north, and emptying into the King. I have called it the …...... Long line of ranges on our right or south side I have called the Martin Ranges after Sir James Martin, Chief Justice of N.S.W. Left camp at 3, and in about 2 miles struck the King Stockdale river, Now grown into a magnificent watercourse over 400 yds wide, heavily timbered with big and handsome trees of dense foliage – gum, box &c. We crossed and recrossed again in about a mile and camped. Here



we shot 2 black brown and white ducks, of the mountain duck species, and about the size of a black duck, very handsome in plumage. Country passed over today, about 14 miles, not to be surpassed. [Page 89] December 20 Saturday. At daylight this morning got 3 more ducks. Night cool. Thermometer at daylight 60°, noon 100°. Mosquitoes very bad last night. Left camp at 6, and travelling easterly with the river and the Martin ranges on our right, made about 9 miles and again struck the King Stockdale, a really magnificent river, and camped at ½ past 10. Country travelled rolling downs, thickly grassed with Mitchell blue, and ripe grass, equal to the best country I know or ever saw; soil red, chocolate and black loam, intermixed with gravel in places, only here is big and the best seen on the trip. We crossed several good creeks on our way, some having fine water, and all trending towards the King Stockdale. On our left or north side, a few isolated hills of decomposed granite. The scenery something to remember – I think this is the finest camp we have ever had; best for the horses also, and this is saying a great deal. They are all getting in fine condition and very fresh. Marked tree H.S. 78. Latitude............ Should not be more than 7 10 or 8 12 miles from the Wilson, if our observations are correct. December 21 Sunday. Left party spelling here, and to start on Monday on our tracks. Left camp at ½ past 6, accompanied by Mr. Ricketson, and in about 9 miles struck the Wilson river, running strong and rapid – bed of river stony and sandy, easy of approach for stock on both sides. Noticed old horse-shoe tracks, which I take to be those of O'Donnell and party. This cheered us up, and we made a hearty meal, having shot a fine [white] [Page 90] white crane on our way here. The country travelled over this morning is simply splendid – open rolling downs with only an odd tree here and there, thickly carpeted with Mitchell grass, soil red and black loam, some parts a little stony, others a sort of decomposed granite or gravel, and equally fit for any description of stock, cattle country. We are on our way over to the Ord, to see if we can fall in with Messrs Panton and Osman's cattle camp, and get supply of meat, as we ae getting short or that article, and try and arrange for some one to go back to the Lawrence river camp H.S. 75, and bring in Mulcahy and Ashton, as they only had a month's supply, and are both terrors to eat, and a shade lazy at hunting for it. I should like them to be reached in 3 weeks. Camped on the Wilson for lunch near H.S. O.D.51. I saw where O.D's horses had been to the river to drink. Ricketson shot a wild goose and a cockatoo. There is a remarkable stony bluff which comes within 50 yards of the river on the east side of our crossing place, a very noticeable and remarkable basaltic bluff. I have called it …..... point or bluff after …....... Left camp again at 3, and travelling shade south of east for about 9 miles, camped on a fine creek, evidently one of the heads of the Bow river. Country passed over, stony downs heavily clothed with Mitchell grass, and occasional isolated hills grassed to their summits. Thermometer at daylight 62°, noon 90°. December 22 Monday. Left camp at ½ past 5, steering due east for about 13 miles over first class pastoral country, composed of low flat hills spreading out for miles, with occasional [bold] [Page 91] bold hills, all heavily clothed with Mitchel grass, and two or three patches of triodea, not enough to hurt. Soil black and chocolate loam. Crossed the course of several fine creeks trending towards the



Bow. Struck the crossing of the Bow at a fine waterhole, and noticed the tracks of O'Donnell's party still quite plain in many places. Saw no marked trees. River winding about very much. Camped until 2 in the afternoon, and crossed the river, and steering a shade south of east, over fine level red and chocolate flats, entirely free from stones, with very few trees, and well grassed, again struck the Bow after 7 miles of excellent country. Followed it down for about a mile. Noticed track of shod horses &c, when the river dipped nearly to the south. Kept east over fine level country entirely free from stones for about 2 miles further, and camped. Good feed and water during the whole of this afternoons travelling. Would have been good even in a buggy. Thermometer at daylight 60°, noon 90°. December 23 Tuesday. Beautiful cool night, no mosquitoes. Left camp at 5 o'clock, and travelled easterly for about 8 miles, when we cut the course of a large and deep creek running into the Bow. I have called this creek the …........ The Bow here is distant about one mile to the south and gradually turning eastward. Noticed horse tracks and droppings on different parts of our route, some going up and some down. I take those going up to be O'Donnell's, and those going down Durack's. Country passed over up to this first class open flats, very [lightly] [Page 92] lightly timbered, free from stones, and well grassed. In about 2 miles further, got into some low limestone hills not so well grassed on the ridges, but with very fine gullies, and in about ½ a mile further, struck the Bow, running under a stony cliff. Went down and camped for a couple of hours. Started again at one, and after a very erratic course over some splendid and some very poor country, made about 5 miles and camped. About 3 miles east of our midday camp on the Bow, is a gap in the hills, the river running through it, and just behind or east of it is a very noticeable sugar loaf peak. I have called it Mt. O'Connor, after my friend Mr. Daniel O'Connor, M.P. for West Sydney, as it is on or near to his own blocks fronting the Ord and Bow rivers. December 24 Wednesday. Fine cool night. Left camp at ¼ past 5 this morning, and steering easterly, had some stiffish climbing up and down for the first couple of hours, then a run of nice valley for 7 or 8 miles, well grassed and watered, and camped in valley on a good large creek with deep waterholes for lunch at ½ past 10. During lunch several blacks appeared, but kept on a big hill about ½ a mile distant. I think there were 5 of them. They kept waving their spears, and pointing to the Ord, and talking at a great rate. We waved some green boughs in return and about 1 o'clock continued our journey easterly to the Ord. Made about 10 or 12 miles. Country passed over mostly isolated and broken hills, stony, with finely grassed valleys, and some excellent creeks. This is Christmas Eve. I am afraid we can't reach the Ord [before] [Page 93] before late tomorrow, and so poor Ricketson and myself will have a lonely Christmas. Thermometer at daylight 65°, noon 105°. My horse Brinsley has lost a shoe, and I am much afraid he will go lame, as all the way is stony, and I have no means with me of putting one on. December 25 Thursday. Christmas Day. Up and had breakfast and horses caught before daylight. Saddled and left camp at ½ past 4, steering a shade south of east for the Ord. We made about 14 miles, over pretty near the same sort of country as yesterday. Travelled 3 or 4 miles along one very fine creek; then it joined another and went southerly, so had to leave it. Have called it the ….. after ….. Our Christmas dinner consisted of doughboys, Johnny cakes and gooseberry jam, and very well it went. We know there are some very anxious thoughts about us this Christmas tide, and may eaters



of good dinners are wishing all sorts of good luck to us, and the knowledge we are so cared for is cheering in our solitude today. Left camp again about 2, and made 7 or 8 miles easting over very fair country, and camped for the night. Thermometer at daylight 65°, noon 106°. December 26 Friday. Left camp at ¼ to 5, and travelled easterly over rolling downs of black and chocolate soil, covered with small boulders and slabs of concrete and sometimes [limestone] [Page 94] limestone and quartz, sometimes gravel. Fine stock country heavily grassed with Mitchell grass, not much sign of water for 10 or 12 miles, then past 2 conical hills on to ironstone table land timbered with stunted gum and mostly spinifex for about 6 miles. Came on to water and camped, having travelled about 20 miles and the day very hot, thermometer 110° at noon. Our rations are now all but done, just enough for supper tonight. Tomorrow we must try hard to get some game as we must have unwittingly crossed the Ord and left it many miles behind according to the distance and course we have travelled, and the way it is marked on the map, with distances given by O'Donnell. Got 2 pigeons and a pheasant today. December 27 Saturday. Thunder and lightning all night but no rain. Still lightning this morning at daylight, and sky very dark and cloudy. Left camp at ¼ past 4, following course of creek easterly, hoping soon to strike the Ord . Made in all today about 20 mlles, probably not more than 10 on our course, the creek winding different ways; some very rough, all well grassed. My second in command shot 3 ducks and one white cockatoo, so we are right for today, but as our sugar and flour are done, and the tea unfortunately lost, things don't look particularly bright . I have a good plucky mate, who will assist me well, and whom I can rely upon, and that is a great thing when a pinch comes – no growling, no murmuring, but pulling together with our minds made up to succeed. Camped on creek a little before sundown, when we had a very heavy thunderstorm for about an hour – set in properly. [Page 95] Are now satisfied the Ord is behind us, and where we crossed nothing like the river described. The finest we have seen are the Lorimer, McLeod, Wilson and King Stockdale The Bow also being a very fair fine stream, but nothing to compare with the others. December 28 Sunday. Left camp at daylight. No breakfast, trusting to our guns. Followed creek for about 1½ miles, and luckily I noticed cattle tracks and fresh droppings. ;Hunted about, and found there could be only one, but it had been there since last night's rain, so resolved to have it at all hazards. Set Ricketson on the fresh track, myself leading the two horses, and keeping a sharp look out, had not tracked it about ¼ mile, when I saw, about 100 yards away, a fine yearling heifer bull in fair condition, neither ear marked or branded, but evidently a stray one, most likely of Panton and Osmans. She He soon saw us, and charged Ricketson at once, and then off full tear for the stony hills. I was quickly on my horse, a fine cob, and after her him. Headed him twice, and then fired with my rifle, and hit him too low down on the forehead. That steadied him, and getting a broadside shot, I put the next behind the shoulder, broke his spine, and we had the pleasure of seeing him topple over. We soon had his tongue, heart, kidneys and about 30 lbs of rump and loin cut off, and hide to mend our boots, and, our horses let go, camped and spelled for the remainder of the day, feeling all the better for our grilled steak, which was as tender as chicken. This is our first piece of cattle duffing. At this camp we noticed many different sizes and kinds of most gorgeous butterflies. Country round excellent for stock – stony rises well grassed, with [Mitchell]



[Page 96] Mitchell grass and occasional patches of triodea. Spent most of the day resting and feasting, and boiling for keeping. There can now be no doubt we must be a long way over the Ord, I should say at least 4 50 miles, as this is different country altogether. December 29 Monday. Started at daylight. Kept on easterly – found little creek starting …. followed it, when we came upon the old tracks and camps of Osman and Panton's cattle; found they were going south west. This satisfied us we must now be only about 180 a little over 200 mies from Delamere, and resolved (though without sugar, tea, flour or anything but a few pounds of meat, our horses without shoes, ourselves almost bare-foot, the hide helping us this time) to push on and send in the report, as we are as far from help one way as the other; but our spirits are good, and we do not feel at all like giving up without a struggle. Made about 18 miles. Day very hot – thermometer at daylight 68°, noon 110°. Country very stony – walked a great deal to save our horses, who are behaving splendidly and keeping their condition. December 30 Tuesday. Started early. Ricketson shot some game. Still kept on creek. Came on a black's camp – they cleared like smoke, and we found they had left behind a large tin, evidently a preserved meat tin, and also a jam tin, so we knew they must have either followed up Messrs. Panton & Osman's cattle, or we must be [close] [Page 97] close to some outlying station on the Victoria river. Could get no parley with the blacks, which was disappointing, as they must have been able to give us some information, as we are now in a perilous position – far into Northern Territory, no food, no pack horses, no maps, no direction, no certain knowledge, only that we must now travel NE and strike the telegraph, if Providence aids us in keeping up our strength. We both feel a little weak in the knees and languid; pretty thin but healthy and free from any approach to scurvy. Made about 20 miles; passed some fine holes of water and camped. Shot 2 cockatoos today. December 31 Wednesday. Started at daylight. Made about East by north, but kept creek, as we thought we noticed the old track of a horse. Came upon a black's camp – they could not run this time, as we were right amongst them. Found the gins had some wild figs cooked in an old meat tin. Tasted them and found them good and palatable, but not nearly equal to boab, loquat or native peach. Found some fine string in the camp, wound round a stick, just as a European would a fishing line. I had a parley with one old gin and imitating on all fours the bellow of a bullock, she seemed to understand I had evidently seen cattle, and she said what we took for white fellow sit down (pointing down the creek). We now pushed on pretty fast, and about 3 found the fresh tracks of cattle and horse droppings. Our courage was now renewed, and we made as much headway as possible on the tracks. Saw a turkey, and Ricketson knocked him over. Went on a few miles and grilled half of him – finished it and started again, when we had the good luck to come upon several loose horses in good condition – and shot a spoonbill. Camped at sundown and finished our turkey, and put on the spoonbill to stew for (morning) [Page 98] morning. Made in all about 27 miles today. Hot wind blowing since 11 am. Thermometer 115° at noon. I think Providence is with us in sending us so much provision. While Ricketson was making supper I got on his mare, I went about 5 miles by moonlight thinking I might find a station, as I was



quite sure we were near one of some kind but had to return to camp disappointed. New Years Day. Up an hour before daylight, called my mate, got the horses, ate our stew and were off at dawn. Certain now we are close to flour, sugar, and jolly fare once again – what a relief a drink of good tea once again will be. Made about 3 miles further down the creek (Gordon's Creek), when we sighted a home station. How our hearts jumped! New Years day and New Years fare! This Victoria Creek cattle station is about 12 miles S.S.E. of Mount Warburton, described by A. Forrest on his journey. Found the acting manager, Mr. T.F. Armstrong all to be desired, doing everything in his power to make us at home and comfortably so. Arrived there about 6, and got a grand breakfast, beef, eggs, bread, jam rice and tea – what lucky dogs we are to fall into the hands of such a good Samaritan. Bought a fresh supply of good rations, sold, considering the out of the world position, most reasonably – dried apples, rice flour, jam, meat, sugar, currants. How we are in it! And my friend seems so proud in new boots – such a relief too! Flour only 6d a lb. I have frequently paid 1/- in Queensland. Thermometer at daylight 70°, noon 112°.We have got the loan of a pack horse now, so we may consider our troubles are more or less over, and fair sailing all the way; and if my health holds out my report will be in time, and I shall be able to send relief to those behind, and all my engagements will have been kept, and a rest fairly earned. We had a grand tea with some fine plum cake, and so ended our New Years Day 1885. We tried to make arrangements here about relief, but no one in authority being home & so small a supply of provisions it was impossible to do so. 1885 Jan 2. A fine cloudy morning looking like rain. Started at 10 a.m. and made about 12 miles and camped. Had a very heavy thunderstorm on our way, which gave us a good soaking, but freshened us up wonderfully, as the weather was so cool afterwards. Thermometer at noon 90.° Started again at 3 p.m. And made about 9 miles further. Camped for the night on a large creek trending easterly. Country passed over very fine open mimosa plains, lightly timbered and well grassed. Our pack mare is very heavy in foal, and though all our pack only weighs about 70 lbs it is too much, she is so near foaling, so we have to go very slowly – it was 9 o'clock when we camped tonight. The country all around the home stead here, and for miles, strongly resembles that of the Lorimer, Leopold Downs, near H.S. 21 and H.S. 26. Jan 3. A slight shower during the night, which was cloudy, though the full moon gave a good light, so caught our horses at ½ past 2, and left camp a full hour before daylight – travelling excellent, as there is quite a well-beaten pad here from the travelling cattle. Reached the Victoria river, a distance of 10 miles, by 7 a.m. (and) [Page 100] and camped over the heat of the day. This is really a very grand river, with handsome trees adorning it banks, and fine deep holes, but not nearly so broad here as the general run of the Lorimer, which and with the King Stockdale, are I think the two finest rivers I have seen in these parts – still there is no denying the beauty of the so aptly named Victoria – a noble river, after a noble lady (“long may she reign!”) and Australia , our fair and beauteous land own her as its Queen, for more than one despoiling hand would despoil our fair and beauteous land, were it not for “the flag that's braved a thousand years the battle and the breeze”. Left camp at 3 o'clock, and following track for 10 miles over very nice country, camped on a creek without water for the horses. Fearful thunder and lightning like fiery snakes all over the sky, but only a little rain.



Jan 4. Sunday. Left camp at ¼ to 3, and following track for about 4 miles, found last night's storm had been very heavy, and put water everywhere. Camped ½ an hour for breakfast – horses not thirsty. Went on again at sunrise for 4 miles further of stony rises, and camped for an hour – good feed and water. Track heavy from last night's rain. We both feel very strong and well again now to what we were – Thermometer at daylight 75°, noon 108°. Made another 4 miles and camped over heat of day (fine valley). Left camp at 3, and made about 8 miles, and camped on good big creek with good holes of water, and plenty of green feed. [Page 101] Jan 5. Monday. Left camp at ½ past 5. Followed track for 4 miles and camped for refreshment – then made about 6 miles and camped over the heat of the day – fine green grass and little pockets of water al the way today. Camped in a very pretty but small valley. Our horses behaving wonderfully after their long work since September 12 – almost every day working, and such rough stony country too. Ricketson and self are both getting fat – doughboys every day, currant Johnny cake, damper, rice and apples, rice and currants. January 6 Tuesday. Made about 20 miles today over excellent country, finely watered, and camped with Mr. McGeorge, whom we found camped on Revolver Creek, about 65 miles from Delamere. He was bringing on about 165 head of cattle that had been dropped on the way out with the big mob of Messrs Osman and Panton. Jan 7. Wednesday. Bought two good mares from a Mr. W. Hardy, who was also with the cattle, and left our own spelling on the creek. Had a great talk about the doings of the outer world, but the information was no later than November. Saw a tree marked I XXVIII 84 (& below)N O P-? 85. Left camp at 6, and following track, now very plain indeed [Page 102] indeed, made about 22 miles, and camped for refreshment. Left again about 11, made about 7 miles and camped again for 1½ hour. Our fresh horses are very fat, but are carrying us well. Thermometer at daylight 72°, noon 100°. Yesterday and today we passed some stones put in a peculiar and noticeable position. They are native post-offices, and no doubt give a fund of information to those in the secret. Made about 25 miles more this afternoon, and camped. A good deal of thunder and lightning during the night, but only a few drops of rain. Country passed over today very good indeed, and still, I believe, owned by Messrs Fisher and Lyons. Jan 8 Thursday. Left camp at sunrise, and following the track, made about 10 miles and camped for refreshment. Country stony in places, but good for stock, well grassed and fairly watered. Made about 10 miles more, and camped for refreshment, then about 15 miles more, and camped on a large creek – good grass and water. Jan 9. Friday. Left camp at daylight, and following track for about 11 miles, reached Delamere station, where I hoped to have been able to either borrow or buy fresh horses, and leave ours to spell, and be fresh for return journey to the others, but again was unfortunate in the manager Mr. McDonald, being from home, but as he is expected home tonight, I have decided to wait and start early in …..... as we have now only 90 miles to travel



[Page 103] travel to reach the Katherine station owned by Dr. Brown. Jan 10. Saturday. Left Delamere at 8 o'clock, and following road made about 6 miles, when Ricketson shot a fine turkey. Made 6 miles more, camped and had a ..?.. and some tea. Made about 12 miles more (country today well grassed, brown soil flats and ridges) and camped for the night. Made in all about 24 miles today. Ground very heavy. Jan 11 Sunday. Had a nasty stormy night, getting well wet, with little sleep, so started an hour before sunrise, and made 35 miles to where we crossed the Katherine river, and camped for dinner. Day very hot . Started again at 3, and made another 27 miles – 62 miles today, and reached Spring Vale station at 8 o'clock that night, where the manager, Mr. Alfred Giles, and Mrs. Giles, received us in the most hospitable manner. Next morning, Mr. Giles provided us with 2 of his best saddle horses, and we went to Katherine telegraph station, and sent on my report, and a few private telegrams to immediate friends. Here we found Mr. and Mrs. Murray both of whom were most hospitable and kind to us, insisting on our stopping to dinner, and obliging us in many other ways. This is rather an out of the world part, where we would hardly expect to meet 2 ladies of the class of Mrs. Giles and Mrs. Murray. Both the cattle and the telegraph station have their piano, and as they are only 7 miles apart [Transcribed by Jacqueline Lamprecht for the State Library of New South Wales]

Harry Stockdale journal of exploration in the far north west of...

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Transcript of Harry Stockdale journal of exploration in the far north west of...