Mitchell Library, State Library of New South...

Ludwig Leichhardt journal of a journey from Port Stephens to Peak Range, Oct. 1 1846-Nov. 3, 1847 DLMS 30 (Safe)

Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW

Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales Ludwig Leichhardt journal of a journey from Port Stephens to Peak Range, Oct. 1 1846-Nov. 3, 1847 DLMS 30 (Safe) [] Leichhardt, Friedrich Wilhelm Ludwig ‘Log of my journey from Port Stephens to ‘Peak Range.’ 1 Oct 1846 – 3 Nov 1847 [Page 2] [Drawn map of area – writing and positions indecipherable] [Page 3] Log of my journey From Port Stephens to Darling Downs Peak Range And Swan River [Page 4] 19th October Tuesday the 20th October – I left Sydney the 1 – Octbr 46 at 10 oclock at night on the Thistle, a Steamer of the Steam Navig. Company. Several of my companions with 3 mules and all our saddlery went in the Cornubin, on which Mr. Boyd and Robinson had offered me a free passage for my things. – the 2n – we arrived at Raymond Terrace but had to wait until night for the Cornubin which had stuck on the flats. Next we lodged at Rev. Mr. Spencers and Dr. Cadwell who treated us with great hospitality. Next morning we proceeded to Mr. Kings and Frrawany to whose paddocks the greater part of my horses had been previously sent. After some difficulties with our mules we went to Mr. Caswells and Sunday the 4th Octbr to Stroud. From here I sent Mr. Hely for the goats to Lambs Valley and I myself went to Capt. Kings at Carrington, to settle my business about the mules, to make some experiments with my boiling apparatus and to take leave from that excellent man and his family. I stayed at Jalkee [Page 5] until Monday the 8th Octbr when I returned to Stroud in company of Capt King and Mr. Boydel of the Pateson Mr. Hely returned from with the goats on Saturday night and all



being prepared we left Stroud the Monday Tuesday following on the 13th – Octbr. Our goats were in wretched condition, many very old and all extremely poor. The weakest soon dropt behind and we had to leave about 7 of the 290. we got from Mr. Wentworth. – In Gloucester we received however some additional billygoats which increased the number to 288 of which a few days afterwards two were lost by crossing the river. The mules I purchased from the company at about 13 pounds a head (15 pounds cash with 10 pr. Discount) were in most admirably condition, 3 old Valporsies mules the others bred by the company. They were rather two lively and one bucked me so severely on my right arm that I was disabled to attend to them for several days and I have not yet entirely recovered from the injury. – I bought 12 from the company 2 were given to me as a present from Mr. H. Macarthur and one I bought from Capt Mayne of Toongabbee Mr. Dawson had assisted me in bying 12 horses, strong and rough and quiet and at the rate of 9 pounds a head. They will suit me admirably. – In consequence of the poor condition of the goats I traveled in short stages up the grant of the company towards New England. Previous rain had produced the most excellent pasture and continuous showers even during the 3 first days of my travelling kept this [Page 6] still increased the rapid growth of vegetation. Tuesday Wednes I arrived at Gloucester, the cattle station of the company. Mr. Turnbull expressed his a great a desire of going on my Expedition and I should like to avail myself of his services. In the case he could obtain leave from Capt. King I should leave Mr. Meyer behind. Thursday [indecipherable] Mr. King arrived in Gloucester and Thursday Friday I continued my journey to a station about 9 milers from Gloucester: (Stapelton) Friday Saturday to Ashalls; Saturday Sunday to flits stat. when we met the company’s flocks coming down to shearing, Sun Monday to Giro flats Monday and Tuesday to the foot of the dividing range. Here Mr. Roper met me again going up to New England. What his motives are I know not; but he was seemed desirous of make leaving me on good terms and to banish all angry feeling. 22nd Octbr. Thursday. Yesterday I travelled with the goats up hungry hill to the last head station of the Company of which Mr.Lowry is in charge. One goat had broken the thighbone, another was lame and unfit for traveling; a lame billy goat was knocked up before arriving at the end of the stage. The gradient of hungry hill is according to Mr. Kings measurement 18º the rock is flinty conglomerate. The red anthills show a loamy soil. The fern tree is rare and not higher than 8-10 feet. The height of hungry hill above the level of the sea is about 2600 feet. This elevation was obtained by the Boiling Water apparatus at Lownes. The latter is however much lower than hungry hill. The air was remarkably brazing the thermometer in the morning 59º - Today I went over with the mules to Mr. Mac Ivers



[Page 7] Sheep station. The goats follow in shorter stages, as the whole distance would be too long for them. The soil at Lownes is very rich and most excellent gardening ground, the potatoes are remarkably fine, the peaches had just set fruit – the head of the Manning which passes by is a fine stream of water, which rushes noisily along its rocky bed and forms rapids or waterfalls about 2 miles from the house. The country between Lownes and Mac Ivers is most beautiful, open forest on ridges between which small treeless flats come Down, which are covered with the richest verdure. Beyond the last sheep station the ridges rise, and we ascend gradually towards the dividing Range between the Manning and the Hastings – the spine of the Range is composed of Basalt and Dornite, the ridges north of it are flintrock, between which Serpentine is observed near the station next to Lownes. Several comporta (lasprida Brence) Helichrysum violet and various bright coloured flowers adorned the green sward. My companions were struck with the beauty of this country and one spoke of Germany another of England; each reminded by the variety of hill and dale, of open paths of forest and open flats of their respective native country. The forest of the dividing range contains fine stringy bark and bluegum trees and groves of pine trees were growing in the narrow glens or along the bubbling mountain brooks. – A thunderstorm was forming to the N East and a watergall (rainbow) was seen in it, but it passed to the Northward. We have just got a sheep and my companions are busy in preparing dinner. I saw Roper again at Lownes and has travelled with me to MacIver and is going to stay with me over night. I hope he will follow my advice. [Page 8] 23rd Octbr. The night was extremely cold, the thermometer 41ºF at 2 ocl. am. And 40º at sunrise The sky was clear and calm. At present a very light air moving from the Eastward. The shepherd complained of the coldness of the place, which had been established by Capt Scott as a cattle station, but had been given up as the cattle would not stay. A fine little streams runs down to the Eastward; it is so strong, that a water wheel has been put into it but I do not know for what purpose. The whole place looks very ruinous 24th Octbr. We left MacIvers station and traveled through a fine undulating hill country openly timbered and at present beautifully grassed. We passed Mr. Dens Mtain station and followed the Apsley down, on which Mr. Mackenzies flocks were lambing. A finer country does not exist in any other part of the colony but this run is considered one of the finest of New England. Our course was to the Northward until we came to the Headstations, from which we went ENE to go to Mr. Rusden’s at which we arrived about half an hour after sunset. The whinstone changes with Jalkiheste and quarzrock.



A species of Bellis (?) a small but very ornamental vetch, Euphrasia a prickly and Daviesia and another spec. of the same genus with broad elliptical blunt leaves and a spreading prostrate sphaerolobium were most conspicuous, a species of Stackhousia grew socially in some parts. – It got cloudy during the night and this morning we had drizzling rain, which still continues. We have been busy during the whole forenoon on breaking in our chestnut mules, in which we were actively assisted by Mr. Thomas Rusden, who took a delight in curbing the obstinate little brutes. Brown got a fair spill and Mr. Bunce yesterday [Page 9] a severe kick. Though the mules drove much better, their temper is worse than that of bullocks and we are exposed to much greater personal dangers. The air is cool and brazing, the temperature during the afternoon 58º f. We saw a great number of the Paramatta Rosellas. The Gymnorhina tibicia is very frequent here about the station 25th Octbr Last night thunderstorms. This morning I made an observation with my boiling apparatus and determined the elevation of Rusdens station to be 3127 feet above the level of the sea. Thermometer 60º A. 207.75 B. 207.b after subtracting the [indecipherable] from the latter 206.25. I find that the two thermometers very nearly indicate the same degree, whereas there was a great difference at Jahlee. [Calculation of elevation of Mr. MacDonalds Station not transcribed] [Page 10] [4 Novbr. Maryland Mr. Marshes Station and 6 Novbr. Braikens Station not transcribed] [Page 11] 15 Novbr At Mr. Hodgsons station 10 am therm 73f [calcultations not transcribed] I calculate constantly therm B as it appears to me the most correct. Novbr. 17th Mr. Hughs & Isaacks. My attention was too much occupied with the breaking in of my mules or distracted by the intercourse with gentlemen whom I met in their stations to allow me dayly remarks during my rapid journey over New England and Darling Downs. I left Mr. Bunce and Wommai with the goats and proceeded at the rate of 20 miles with my mules, riding the two surliest ones in order to break them in. New England was extremely cold and the difference of temperature was as striking as the difference of elevation, where we descended from Maryland Mr. Marshes Station



[Page 12] to Brachers at the 5th Novbr. I set out immediately to ascertain, where Mr Mann was with our luggage and where I should be able to procure the cattle I intended to take with me on my journey. The 6th Novbr. I went over to Mr Fairholm a kind old friend and fellow traveler with whom I had explored the creeks at Darling Downs for fossil bones. The 7th I rode over to Colin Campbell the 8th to Mr Hodgson to stop my luggage at his station, should Mr. Mann not yet have past it. Every where I was kindly received and promises were given to increase my stock by an additional number of sheep or cattle. Fairholm promised 2 – Leslie 4 bullocks. Nash 12 Bracher 25 – Colin Campbell 12 sheep. – I suffered very much of Diarrhoea after laying a day at Brachers which became extremely painful at Campbells, but ceased at Hodgsons. I remark this, as I had been invariably attacked by the same desease on the Darling Downs and as my whole party suffered like myself at Brackers. When I returned there. 11th Novbr. Mr. Bunce had arrived with the goats, which was the more satisfactory as the beasts had even improved not withstanding the heavy traveling. I left Brackers at 18 Novbr. with my whole party leaving Mr. Meyer behind me, not only because he was a married man whose whole mind was not with me but because he was remarkably unhandy and awkwards and more greedy than I liked a man for such an expedition to be. [Page 13] I was surprised at finding Isopogon anemonifol in New England between Nichols accomodation House and Maryland. Banksia integrifolia was also abundant and the small sandy but grassy flats surrounded with this tree reminded me of many [indecipherable] Sthn Queensland and the Coboug peninsula. A little shrub with apporte spiny leaves was in blossom all over New England and a fine showing Cryptandra Stackhousia was very abundant. The people of the Downs are everywhere busy with sheepwashing and shearing, which is much later this year than in former ones. The strong seabreeze which sets in from East and Est by N. immediately after sunset reminds me strongly of the breeze along the MacKenzie and Peak Range, and I conclude by the time that the latter locality is as or a little farther from the seacoast as Darling Downs are. the breeze is generally strongest on the hottest days. At Brachers we made halter ropes of greenhide for every mule to facilitate our catching these obstinate animals. After having cut straps for the various packsaddles to tie the loads on, we shall have done every thing our ingenuity and experience could advice to make our progress less embarrassed by possible upsetting of loads.



As Mr. Turnbull did not arrive, I have offered the vacant place to Mr. Walter Smith, a gentleman whom I had opportunity of observing [Page 14] on my stay at Campbells Station when starting on my first Expedition and with whose behaviour towards us I was very much pleased. He will give me a decided answer in a few days. I expect hence every day and as soon as all the loads are arranged I shall start. 23d – Nov. At Mr. Andrews 11 ½ am. 69f.therm [calculations not transcribed] Mr. Mann arrived at Gowrie at Mr. Isaacs place just when we were occupied in roping one of our mules to put a setum in a swelling at its withers By some misunderstanding the dray with our things went to Hodgsons and I sent consequently Mr. Hely to Hodgsons to arrange matters and to have the things brought to Gowrie. Mr. Forbes and Graham arrived the same day and Mr. Forbes made me a present of 3 pounds as part of the Testimonial of my former Expedition. Mr. Hodgson made me a present of 12 wethers which Mr. Hughs exchanged with 2 bullocks. Mr. Mann brought me letters from Mr. Lynd. Mr. Smith [Page 15] [indecipherable] that he would not be able to go with me. The dray came at the 19th and we started Friday the 20th Novbr. Our arranging the packs and loading took us a long time and we could not start before one oclock. The mules went well for about [indecipherable] mile when we past the creek. They tried to run down as usually, the loads got deranged and several upset. As we were reloading them, others lay down and thus we were kept for several hours. Having started again, everything went on smoothly enough, but we had still once more to arrange loads, which retarded our progress and made it very late before we came to Mr. Andrews. One heavy thunderstorm overcame us about 6 miles from Hughs’s and as night approached rain set in again. The night being very dark and none of us knowing well the locality we found it difficult to turn our mules in to the stockyard and 4 mules with 2 horses escaped our notice. Next morning we went in search of them and found them all. 3 had thrown their loads and one had kept it on the whole night. – We brought them to the station where Mr. H. Russell had arrived meanwhile. He promised to lend us a hand in going over the plain to Crosses’ and proposed even to start immediately. Fortunately however on the advise of Mr. Cameron we desisted for the most heavy rain set in at night and continued Sunday and Monday and looks as if it was still to continue for some days. The wind is strong from the Eastward. Russell said that he had observed that swifts generally appeared



before rain. The creek is running and so is probably the Condamine. Though the rain is inconvenient for the moment, it will be of greatest advantage afterwards. [Page 16] Mr. Andrews and Mr. Testuis Campbell have added a dozen wethers each to my stock. The cattle which I took from Mr. Hughs is still very wild and will give us a good deal of trouble before we are able to watch it at night. The Rainy wether at this time of the year 20-23 Novbr. is unusual but Mr. Russel told me that he had witnessed a flood of the Condamine some years ago. I sent Mr. Bunce with Wommai to drive the goats and sheep to the wool shed at Mr. Dennis’s but I hope he is at present at the Coxens station to wait until the rain is over and the place is dry again. The seabreeze from the Eastward reaches here at half an hour after sunset. Wednesday the 25th – Novbr. The rain has continued with Easterly and N Easterly wind. The moon is 7 days old and it seems now as if it was going to clear up. But there will be no chance before the change of the wind which blows irregularly but occasionally very strong. Mr. Gregor the Clergyman arrived last night and we had a christening and prayers this morning. It is a question wether the state of the plain will allow us to proceed tomorrow. Hely and Brown have tacked our cattle every day and they are improving. For this reason alone our compelled stay at this station will be of the greatest advantage to us. – The 30th Novbr. A day before yesterday 10 of my mules and 4 horses strayed back 2 had none of my blackfellows here supposing that the paddock would prevent any troubles of this sort. Bocking followed their tracks but as it was getting late he returned and the beasts gained a long way. [Page 17] Yesterday I sent Mr. Turnbull and the little blackboy of the station and they have not yet returned. We are compelled to stop until they come and I hope only that they have not separated into mobs as three bull mules were with them. Mr. Turnbull arrived last Wednesday and I am very glad that this apparently well excellent young man has joined my party. [Not transcribed] [Page 18] [Not transcribed] [Page 19] [Not transcribed]



[Page 20] [Not transcribed] [Page 21] [Not transcribed] [Page 22] [Not transcribed] Andrews Station the 30th Novbr. 1846 My dear friend Should the Legislative Council reimburse the Expenses of my journey, in case of my death and should you receive intelligence from Dr. Nicholson, that the Journal has publisher of the Journal has not even given 300£, let it be understood, that I am indebted to Dr. Nicholson to the Amount of 850£ and that it is of much greater consequence to me to have my debts paid honorably than to enrich my family. This debt is Dr. Nicholson has no papers to claim it, it is a debt of honour and it is for that reason I mention it to you. Under I lost out of sight the possibility that my journal might not bring me anything, or I should have made the necessary arrangements in the will. Ludwig Leichhardt to R. Lynd Esq. Barrackmaster Military Barracks Denny’s Station Tu 6 Decbr. 1845 I have not sent this note, though I wish him to act on it, should this journal meet his eye. Ludwig Leichhardt [Page 23] 6 Febr. Mr. Dennis’s Station 4 ½ PM. Therm. 77. [Calculations – not transcribed] The 9th Decbr. We arrived at Dennis’s station the 6th of Decbr continued down the Condamine to [indecipherable] the 7th to Stevens the 8th. It took so much time to drive up the goats, that I arrived only very late and had to camp at the right side of the river opposite to the hut. Today I went over to Mr. Stevens who was suffering of acute rheumatism. As I had lost 2 head of cattle of Russel’s and as one was very lame I exchanged with Stevens who gave me 4 little steers, making up my number of 40 head. Mr. Bell and Dennis’s have added 20 sheep which makes my their num total number nearly 100. Several sheep however as well as goats suffer of footrot. I have not yet been able to determine my latitude. The elevation of Dennis’s is 1084 feet. Two of our



horses returned yesterday morning, or were supposed to do so and when Mr. Hely and Brown went after them, Mr. Hedley the superintendent of Dennis met [Page 24] them and stated that the flood came down the Condamine mountain high like a moving wall of water, as he never had seen before. I was very much afraid, that it might would catch us at Stevens’s, but we have part recrossed the river, which is here running strong and are in safety at its right banc. Many of our mules suffer of sore backs. One of our horses was gored by a bull which Mr. Russel gave us, and I despair of its recovering. We had today showery weather today. The 10th Decembr. We traveled about 8 miles WNW along the Condamine, which makes some very large sweeps to the Northward. The country was principally timbered with small Myal trees and Box: there was an other species of Acacia with lanceolote phyllardia and a drooping habit: Rhagodias and other species of Chenopodiaceous plants grew abundantly in the myal groves: a Zygophyllum and a beautiful yellow Pigea were also observed. The Red Trichinium, the little species of Jasmin begins to blossom – Ruellia – the white trichinium has not been observed. – fine open forest land is still farther to the Westward. I have never seen and felt the annoyance of so many muskitoes; the rains of the last 3 weeks have produced millions of them, which are particularly troublesome as I am riding along with the bridle in one hand and with compass in the other. We had a light shower of rain, but the day was clear with passing cumuli. The moon is in the approaching the last quarter. Last night at 8 oclock a strong easterly wind, which ceased with puffs before midnight. Mr. Bunce told me that he had seen the head of a horse and the bones of it at a blackfellows [Page 25] camping place. If this is correct, it could only be Mr. Hodgsons horse, which he left with its load on in passing one of the scrubs at the approach of natives. Horse dung and horse tracks were observed at several places. These are either Hodgsons or those of occasional exploring parties. The tracks belonged to a very large horse. The river rose high last night and is running strong all along. Our bullocks kept very quiet during the night, considering that it was the first out of the stockyard. A species of Tricoryne was in blossom. Our arrangements are tolerably well defined: 4 watches, each 2½ ours from 7 to 5 oclock, when all hands rise. Jumbuk and Wommi first, Perry and myself second, Hely and Bunce third and Mann and Bukking last. Brown attends to the cattle during the day. – Bukking is cook. the 11th Decembr. We traveled today over about 8 miles of ground but only 5 miles in a straight line NNW. – the country along the Condamine was open and undulating but scrubby off the river. After 2 miles we entered into the large gumtree flat which I had past on a former occasion and which at present was extremely boggy and almost



unpassable for our mules, which sunk into the soft ground to their bellies and almost broke their legs in efforts to get out of it This large flat extends along Charleys Creek, to which we came after 5 miles NW by W and along up which we traveled for several miles to come to my old camp. The ground was to heavy for my mules and I had to camp before arriving at the desired place. The weather was cloudy, but last night clear. Cumuli towards noon and a thunderstorm at 4-5 oclock from the NEast – passing [Page 26] over to the SWest. The muskitoes and sandflees were extremely annoying. Whole patches of Crinum were in blossom and we mistook one of these fields for a part of our flock of goats. mesembrianthemum equilaterale is growing with the Myal. Arthrodium, Tricoryne in blossom. Ruellia abundant. The small tree I called the white Vilex has a 2 capsular seed vessel with polyspernum capsules. A small Elacodendron, a Solanum, a wooly little Sida Harrocky were in blossom. Lat. Made in the night at 19 minuts past 11 by an observation of Aldebarcis The DC’. North 16º 11’44 - 26º46’23”. Index Error – 37”. Charleys creek is running fast in consequence of the late rains 12th Decbr. Last night during my watch the cattle and mules and horses were frightened by a native dog and set off in full speed like a torrent. 4 mules and 2 horses have been found this morning: Mr. Hely and Brown went after the cattle but have not yet returned. The natives, of whom one gave his name Mr. Turner the other Major Bell came near the camp. Several old men were in a greater distance; they asked permission to come into our camp, which I denied. My latitude by Aldebarcus was 25º43’ – it is strange that my the F. Err. Of my sextant changed to + 4’ 7”. thermom 95ºf. at noon. The boggy nature of the flats and of the sandy ridges is very remarkable. They are apparently dry and yet the animals step into the ground almost to their bellies. The sandy ridges with funnel ants and the small clustered everlasting and Burr composite. At night we hear a bird with a whistle similar to that of [indecipherable]. It is strange that Mr. Gellart did not remark the presence [Page 27] of Dacelo cervinus of the Lynd at the Condamine. Now that I know the note of the latter I immediately recognized it. Two species of muskitoes: the small black and the big grey one. The Mauborri or watergum is in blossom; its long foolscap calyptra is characteristic and so is the striated disk round the pistil, when the calyptra? and the stamins have dropt off, umbels long pedinculate ? 13th Decbr. Hely & Brown have not yet returned. This [drawing of flower head] morning I sent Mr Turnbull & Wommai after the mules & horses which they had tracked last



night to the large Bricklow Scrub. We determined our time this afternoon, but were idling about during the greater part of the day, impatient and not knowing what to do. According to Mr. Bunce the natives of yesterday had many words in common with those of Pt Phillipp: Geenong foot – Myrring Eye – Mrnong Hand – Leeong Teeth – Worrong mouth and Cowang Head. This is a very interesting fact. 15th Decbr. Mr Mann observed a very interesting and brilliant meteor at the first part of night from South to West and almost every night some very bright shooting stars are observed. Our waterhole is full of a small green snake, which we see swimming about in it but which we have not yet been able to kill. The Muskitoes flies and sand flies are still extremely annoying. Yesterday I went with Bucking and Mr. Turnbull after the mules, which are driven – into the thickest scrub by Muskitoes and sandflies. All our riding was in vain. Hely returned with the cattle which had returned through thick scrub in a straight line to ogs run where they were seen early in the morning 7-8 [Page 28] hours after their escape. Gogs is about 18 miles SE from here and Hely and Brown had to pass through two thick and very extensive scrubs. Turnbull saw one of those large brown snakes, which I observed in the flowerpot scrub and which seem peculiar to these scrubs. It was cloudy yesterday morning after sheet lightning to the Westward the night before and we had a light shower of rain during the day. Six cattle were lost, for which the chance of which Hely received 4 two year old steers from Mr. Stephens. Notwithstanding all the dry weather the ground is still extremely soft on the flat along the creek. There is a great extend of fine available country along this creek; but cattle and horses will seek refuge in these [indecipherable] scrubs in weather like this, tormented as they are by numberless sandflies and large horseflies. A fine Cassia in form of a small tree is growing in the scrub and at present covered with yellow blossoms. A species of capporis – the new Rutae tree, the Bricklow and the scrubcasuarina are its principal components, the dead wood makes a passage extremely difficult and circuitous and deep holes, partly filled with temporary water exist in every direction, but no decided water course whatsoever. This scrub exists generally on dead levels it lower vegetation is principally composed of Chenopodaceous plants. The whistling bird and Orevica have the most caracteristic note in this part of the country. The former must be nearly allied to that of Arnheims land.



[Page 29] This morning I went down the creek to visit my old camping place, where I stopt 2 years ago. The creek is extremely winding and has in genral a SW. course. The banks are very open, rotten rises and boggy box tree flats, all extremely well grassed. I recognized the crossing place by a patch of Bricklow and scrub and by an S winding of the creek. My camping place is about 1 mile off at shallow lagoons surrounded by scrub S by E from the crossing place. We are encamped about 5 miles N East from it high up the creek and are exactly in the latitude of Reichs Lagoon, which is probably 1—11 miles W. by North from here. I met with Hakea Lorea Rbr. and Grevillea Mimosoides RBr. And with Calostemmae species. Ancilema and Cornelina are in fine blossom. Thysanotus and Arthroduim also. A small species of autherilem? Mr. Bunce gathered a beautiful specimen of Hypericum pusillum. The 19th Decbr. During the last five days I have been occupied in hunting for my missing mules. Several horses and 2 mules were found on some small grassy patches within the scrub: 6 mules and 1 horse are still missing. Last night the natives came and stated that they had seen them. I sent consequently this morning Mr. Turnbull Brown and one of the natives on horseback to find them; there is it is however very probable, that the natives Mr. Jumy & Mr. Bell mean those we have allready got. The 17th night we had light showers, last night we had a heavy thunderstorm from the SWest. – that of the 17th was first from N.E, afterwards from NWest. The weather has been very cloudy and sultry, the heavy rain has killed the a great part of the muskitoes and sandflies, which are not quite so numerous as they were, and even so they would scarcely disgrace the swamps of the Missisippi. A large grey fly troubles the horses very much, but they seem to suffer most [Page 30] of sandflies and crowd round the fires, we make for them to get rid of their tormentors. We have to day a cool breeze from NEast with loose heavy cumuli. Charleys creek has fallen very much and we have found several good crossing places. Brown shot yesterday a Whistling duck (Leptotasus Eytoni) though I am not sure wether it is not different from that to the Northward. The black duck and teal are frequent on the large and numerous lagoons on the other side of the creek. – This creek is allmost in whole extent as far as I have seen it reedy. – Today when taking out our cattle I made a catalogue of the plants I met and here it is: Near the creek the Watergum (Mauborri, Yarra) the appletree and Moreton Bay Ash – no oak. On the flats the box, the watergum, Moretons Ash,: on the ridges the latter and appletrees. These grow here in a loose rotten soil: Sida with long peduriculate solitary small yellow flowers, subcordate blunt dentate leaves: Galium, Ruellia, small headed clustered Gnaphalium, Myoponni prostratum, Glycine, a composite of the form of authenies but very different seeds, fembristilis, Cyperus, Verbena, the composite Burr. Anthisteria, Danthonia, Eriocanton, Wollgrass, Sandgrass, festuca, the swinebeard grass, Milium, Fushira, Thysanotus,



Campanula, the Yellow Bean (the red one common among the high grass near the creek) a leguminous plant of the habit of Swansonia, arupea leaf, myronformals 5 juges, long axillary peduncules 3-5 pendant flowers, calyx quinque dentate, teeth allmost equal, vexillum large expanded masked in the middle, equal to the carmia, alae half – ¾ of the length of the latter. The prostrate rubiaceous plant of the Hunter, ajuga & blue glycine with ternate leaves long linear leaflets, another with oval lanceolate downy leaflets small headed composite with scorious bracts forming the involuminous another species with larger heads and broader leaves. Small ground cassia, Eriasterum componte [page 31] With teeth of bidens, with leafs scenting when rubbed like parsley. Lotus Oxalis a species of Hedysareae? Another leguminous half prostrate plant with faseriles of small scarlet flowers. Swanisona grows on the flats Commelina, Euphorbia, small plant spreading on the ground. Brunonia and a species of Phyllanthus and a yellow Pigea were brought by Bunce; Calectorsia adorns with its fine blue blossoms the ridges. The yellow and blue colour is in all these plants prevailing, some are pink Damesorium on the water pota mogulae on the other side of the scrub we saw the tuberculated sleeping lizzards. Our sheep and particularly the goats suffer of footrot, which advances very rapidly. 20th Decbr. Mr. Bunce has collected some more words from Mr. Turner the blackfellow. Bokäära the name of this creek, Yandukall the Condamine, aade, wood in general, gong water, thona woman, thanthai no good, boathanthai unpleasant smell, bóging dog, gothang cloud, nyamyam pannekin, tharong trowsers? (tharonggeluck in Pt Phill.) padn grass, korango reed, kónong fishes ([indecipherable]) nurgar pelvis stóang opossum. (flying squirrel in Pt Ph.) moon anus. baïru testicles. Turnbull and the blackfellows returned yesterday afternoon with one horse No 5 and one mule No 4. A heavy thunderstorm came on at 4 oclock from the SWest and the whole night was cloudy and sultry. The flats get very boggy again. Supposing that the heavy rain would wash out all the tracks and that it would be easy to recognize fresh ones, I set out with Brown and the native to examine those little plains where we had found the horses and the scrub to the westward, should any water exist there, near which the mules might have kept. No new track was however found [Page 32] though I myself rode over the whole ground. Brown and the native went to the place were the horse and mule had been found the day before. I fear it will be without result. However I have made up my mind not to stop any longer on a search, in which we have lost all reasonable directions, but to move on with the eleven mules we have and with one horse, which is to become beast of burden.



I suffered of a painful dirrhoea during the morning, brought on probably by cold feet during last nights watch. It seems however to have left me: this and piles and muskitoes, sandflies and hornuts with the chagrin of having lost 5 mules contributed to make myself extremely miserable. The blackfellow loho had never mounted a horse was not at all afraid to try it and though extremely awkward in guiding it, his seat was good and he improved rapidly in riding. – The 2 ½ hours watching improves our sleep wonderfully and makes it so sound that we either forget dreaming or our dreams. [German - not transcribed] 21 Decbr. After several rainy nights we had yesterday a very fine one: but <u>heaven</u> the sky is during the day cloudy and the air is sultry. Our horses mules cattle and goats and sheep befriend each other (and it is pleasant to see them camp all mixed. The goats are afraid of evey moisture and do not like to leave the camp before the dew is off. The sheep are not so particular and left their comrades this morning very early and being without guide traveled into the Bricklow scrub 2 ½ miles off, from where Wommai fetched them. All the [Page 33] suffer very much as by the sandflies, muskitoes and Big Horseflies, which render them almost mad and are the cause why it as so difficult for us to find our 5 absent mules. I have sent Turnbull and Brown up the river to see whether they will fall in with their tracks. The goats suffer very much of footrot and we have to kill them, as time goes one, as even our dressing and the dry wether are not sufficient to cure them. Last night at 8 oclock we had a fresh cool South East wind, all the thunderstorms come from SW. – Several brilliant meteors have been seen of late by Bunce, Mann and myself they were allmost all to the Southward. Turner the Native has given us the name of several creeks and a design of creeks and rivers joining the Condamine: it is very interesting and agrees well enough with my former journey. There are three creeks joining the Condamine from the NEast: the Bohkare, on which we are and which is joined by the koimbabór; the Kudshora (Dogwood creek) which is joined by the Yarecunda and Vanganga, which is my Bottle tree scrub creek, which was seen by Roper & Hodgson; all join the Condamine or Yondagoll but the Condamine joins a still bigger River, which comes from the Northward and which he also calls Yondagall; probably Robinsons Creek and the Boyd united We saw a little yellowish bee today which stings but gives no honey. The native called it Bokking Bokking



the 25 Decbr. Christmas day. Yesterday I went about 10 miles due West from our camp to visit Kents lagoon at which we had stayed during our former expedition. After 2 miles riding we crossed a smaller creek than Bokkara Creek, which is no doubt that at which Johns and Caleb were lost and which receives the drainage of Kents flat. The blackfellow call it Korimbabor. The country [Page 34] to the Northward is tolerably open, with the exception of some patches of Bricklow. Not so that to the Southward, for here a belt of scrub 3 miles broad extends parallel to Koimbabor and Bokkara creek - further to the Westward there is an open undulating ironbark forest, which seems to skirt Kents flat, down which the drainage of the water is indicated by a chain of shallow grassy lagoons like Keats lagoon itself. We crossed the flat, entered the Cypress pine thicket and at last the flourspill scrub of old memory. Here I turned, made some attempts to find Kents lagoon, but having such a scrubby country to deal with and the afternoon having advanced, I decided upon returning to the camp. - Koimbabor cr. where we crossed it, was running in consequence of the rains: Leptospermum bushes grew along its bed, which widened into large reedy holes, no doubt reservoirs of constant water – In the scrub we found several interesting trees in blossom, 2 rubraceous trees, one of which of a great fragrance: a broad leaved Sida, a fine but low Pink hibiscus and the scrubby Goodenia were found, as formerly. Mr. Mann accompanied me to get a fair view of the Bricklow scrub and he had quite enough of it when we returned. As we rode through the open grassy forest North of Kiambabor Cr. a black duck rose and on examination we found that she had left a round deep nest under a small bush with 9 eggs, which we determined to use for our Christmass pudding. 1 ½ hours before Sunset Perry went out with the cattle and did not return at sunset having lost the direction of the camp: I sent Wommai with the trumpet but he was not able to find him, we went consequently out together with the trumpet and gun and I made discharge the guns in the camp. By these [Page 35] we made Perry understand where the camp was and heard soon his call. But when we rode up to him, as he came on with the cattle, the latter got frightened and balked and it was only by Wommais quickness that their heads were again turned to the camp. Thus accidents are always at our heals and frequently, when I felt most glad and proud in my heart seeing find stock and a fine party of young men round me I was severely admonished by the running away of my cattle, by some getting lame or gored pp, on what narrow edge my good fortune is balanced. We have got all our horses and mules with the exception of five, which I consider as lost and which I shall take as a special present of providence if they should be brought back to me. – The present time is most



excellent for breaking in the cattle and mules and for schooling my people, who however behave all most admirably. I have made my arrangements to move all our things with the mules and some horses we have should those five not return. Bokkara creek rises very rapidly: Yesterday morning we crossed with low water and when we returned we had to swim over, Mr. Mann with a hat full of Duck eggs in his hand. I am sorry, that I have to kill female goats, which suffer so much of footrot, that we cannot hope of getting them well again There is generally a cool night breeze from 10-12 oclock from the NEast. Oreoica is still heard from Morning to night; and in the scrub I heard a bird very similar to the whistler of Arnheim land. [Page 36] My experience with the mules ressembles a good deal that of Pack Bullocks. The latter were said to be capable of bearing 250-300 lb and I found that they could not bear more than 150. The mules can bear 280-300 and many of them bear such a load with greatest ease; but the difficulty is to keep their backs well. The pressure of such a weight is not does not fail to make the slightest un[indecipherable] of the packsaddle, the slightest swinging movement motion of it a source of constant soreness. Our packsaddles were stuffed to much in the middle, which formed a kind a fulcrum on which the saddle swung, rendering sore the wethers, on which it came down rubbed with evry foot fall. The top loads contribute much to increase this swinging and should if possible never be admitted. Heavy loads may be carried from Station to Station or on short journeys, but I am afraid, they will be a source of great annoyance during my Expedition. – We do not find that the goats travel better than strong wethers: but they are more familiar, more intelligent herd themselves. On the other hand they are even more exposed to footrot than sheep and rainy weather could soon settle our whole herd. Cattle are in this respect by far preferable. – But whatever we do, it is extremely difficult to keep our goats up with our cattle our mules, and we have consequently constantly to wait for them. – If Mr. Bracks had not made me the present of the pony and if I had not exchanged my black mare for a fine grey gelding, I should have had no horse capable of bearing the fatiguing rides after our stray mules and should probably have knocked up all my other horses which are slow and soft. [Page 37] Mules are very excellent for riding together with horses, but they are too restless and wild to be ridden alone on reconnoitring rides .



The 27 Decbr We enjoyed a jolly Christmass with a young roasted goat and Tapioca pudding, the material to the latter we owed to the kindness of Mr. Penny Druggist in Sydney. Yesterday two black fellows came, one of which Mr. Bell we had seen beforehand: the other one strange to us. Both seemed to come from a fight with hostile natives, as one of them was severely wounded with a knife in the neck. They seemed to say that they had seen two of our hobbled mules. They mentioned the Kundsara and expressed themselves willing to go with us. This morning I started with Bell and Wommai, but we were scarcely 4 miles from the camp, when our native guide told us, that he had not seen the horses. We would not make anything out of him, and I consequently followed down the creek on my own accord. Below the old crossing place it is still scrubby and on several places rocky. We crossed it near its junction with the Condamine and returned on the left side. Swift killed a flyer and proved himself an excellent dog. I fear Turners names of creeks are nothing more than localities adjoining Bokkara creek from here down to the Condamine. It has been very cloudy yesterday and today: it is close and sultry and the thermometr was yesterday and today 2 ½ [indecipherable] 90ºf. The flies are an almost unbearable nuisance. – Sterculia Heterophylla abounds in the forest, we past today a most magnificent specimen of [indecipherable] a sweet gummy substance exudes from the bark of the appletree. – I found a species of Rubraceae a small tree in blossom. Exquisite scent. Almost all my companions and myself suffer of Conjunctivitis, though in different degrees. The state of the atmosphere and the flies must be the cause of it. It was unknown on my former expedition. The principal direction of the light winds, particularly during the night is from NEast. [Page 38] 28 Decbr. I have forgotten to mention that Spring killed the common Opossum. That Wommai shot the flying squirrel and that several Iguanas frequent the neighbourhood of our camp. On a small branch of one of the gumtrees near the creek a rhipidura (Shepherds companion) has built its round little nest of mud, exposed to every ennemi and yet sitting on it with the sans souci of an [indecipherable] little philosopher. – Mann suffers very much of Blight in both eyes and of inflamed Muskitoe bites on his legs. He is very impatient and we all curse and damn the flies, which surround us in thick swarms, crowd towards our eyes, into which they probably carry infection and cover our soup and meat though we are swallowing it with the greatest haste to get it clean into our inside. At night, when I am called to watch my eyes are extremely dim and a thick halo is seen round every light and fire: I feel helpless particularly opposite to a herd of young cattle which would be startled by the slightest uncommon noise and rush away from the camp. Bye and bye, particularly in sitting in the smoke to get rid of the muskitoes, the eyes become clearer and the drowsiness disappears. I cannot help smiling in comparing myself sitting at night on a sheepskin in watching my cattle and with my friend Lynd who rolls comfortably from side to side in his soft bed. He will often call me “poor fellow” and yet I should not exchange my place with that of a king particularly if I had those cursed 5 mules back again. The stay in the camp waiting for



Hely, the annoyances of Muskitoes sandflies, flies, the loss of the mules makes one frequently however impatient. [Page 39] the 30th Decbr. Impatient ? Impatient indeed. In herding my bullocks I have often broken out into the most savage curses, and frightened the brutes with the outbreak of my puny rage whilst those myriads of flies swarmed round me and tried to get into my eyes, as if perfectly unconser without taking the slightest notice of the show of my feelings, until I myself burst out laughing at my own great folly. How trying are the small annoyances of life and how unconquerable are the Liliputian evils of this world. A day before yesterday I sent the two blackfellows Bell and Jacky with a letter to Mr. Dennis, principally to have them examined about our mules. – I went yesterday morning with Wommai up Koimba Boy to our old camp 5. NE from Kents lagoon. I recognized the locality in genral without being able to fix exactly the place where our camp was. Old horse tracks of 2 horses were observed going down the creek. A broad belt of open country, some very fine sound Ironbark forest extends on both sides of the creek, which is well supplied with water. Mann has constructed an open shed, which we enjoy during the heat of the day. The blight gets more annoying every day and every one of us suffers. The lunor caustic is invaluable to me. The mules and horses suffer equally and all their sores turn bad in consequence of the irritation caused by the flies. Wommai shot two black ducks and we found the nest of a partridge pigeon on the ground with 2 eggs, which had a most delicate flavour. 1 January 1847. We have sent the old year with all its good and its evil to the past and the morning of the new one dawned on us with a clear, transparent sky and with the [Page 40] most delightful coolness. The suet pudding is in the pot and boils near a fine gum tree log. Yesterday afternoon in herding the bullocks I collected as many grasses I could find and after having examined them this morning I made out 31 species. I recollect 4 others which I had seen beforehand which would raise the number to 35 in a distance and the forest rotten forest land. include Several of the Bricklow grasses are very fine and new to me; the others I have seen all beforehand. Mr. Bunce promises to collect the seeds, which will be very valuable for science sake. Several of these grasses are never or rarely touched by the cattle; for instance the sandgrass, the autgrass, the golden oats, Danthonia christidei. They are fond of Antestheria, of the different species of Panicum, the wool grass and wool oats. The horses feed particularly on the trailing glycines of the forestland.



Wommai has made a barkseat and shows every where his construction propensity like Mann, whose construction bump seems to be hereditary, as all his family has been since a long time engineers. The forest is most beautiful: the rich verdure of the young grass, diversified by the thin shade of the gum and appletree and interspersed with the blue bells of campanula and the yellow golden heads of the clustered everlasting, clothes the open forestground as far as the eye can see; patches of Crinneus soak in while up with our flock of goats for which we mistook them several times and the rich yellow orange yellow Calorteumes clusters round the trunks of larger trees, probably attracted by the great moisture draining down their bark. Trailing leguminous plants, pale pink Fusticias, blue Ruelling [Page 41] contribute equally to render the forest pleasing and in other parts the nodding ears of Autestheria of the sandgrass and of various other grasses gently moved by the breeze imitate the waving cornfield at home. We have cut part of the meat of the wether, we killed yesterday to dry and to preserve. New Years Day afternoon. We have enjoyed our suet pudding and everybody felt extremely satisfied. 5 of my companions are stretched on the tablecloth and sleep after the good feed. They have now tried the want of flour and thinking nothing of giving it up all together. – The state of things between now and two years ago, when we were clustering with horses and cattle round a dirty little waterhole is very striking. We have plenty to eat and to drink and the first I hope will be the case during the whole Expedition. [German – not transcribed] [Page 42] [German – not transcribed] [Page 43] Mr. Bunce & Wommai caught yesterday a spider, which was of an entirely new form the abdomen being protracted into a point “far beyond” the spinning works. Gonocarpus grows abundantly in the flats. A flying squirrel and a black duck Anes Nor. Holl were shot by Wommai. 2d Jan. I determined the time by the altitude of the sun and found that the watch was 5’28” too slow. The Fudes Error of my sextant with Capes norling telescope is + 37”



with my own inverting telescope – 37”. The instrument has not been handled since we arrived here and yet the index Err. was at our arrival more than 4 minutes. [Aboriginal words transcribed with difficulty – may not be completely accurate. See images for diacritics] All these words belong to Billy belonging to Koimbaboy ombann – forehead – killin – forefinger – nonga – one fellow balgo – hair – collalma – two hands – bullall – two fellow Mill – eye – gramms –chest – kullanga – three fellow murro – nose – kanna – belly – bargull – 4 fellow mullinjen – mouth – kuridami – buttock – tarna - woman tjirria – tooth – tjaren – penis – nagull - child tjallan – tongue tallan – tsharra – thigh – arambilla - brother naggan – chin – murran – wood (moxlls ash) pinha – ear – pun – knee – pangull - bon cabor – head? – pui tibia - arrra white walegimi (gorra) arrang – beard – tjinna – foot (tinna) – njigga - appletree mullle – neck – pirrull – big toe – tjamma acacia ammma – arm – rungurr – calves – Nangan Bommering ma – hand (Wommai) – parrell (dirrill copm.) – Kalli water (gong) dirrul – finger – reed ornamember [Page 44] ammarn ruiz (tjiunan sin) – kobi – to eat – gria – to see purrungai - flat gum – tjurgo – hungry – kundurraginya purrungai – flatgum po – leaf – gnoa sleep – to lean uujunn – grass – tsallulu - night – marrangu - duck kamburrill – kangaroo grass pandanga – moon – gnava – to sit ammanj – speargrass kukimba – stars – bubo anus (mundi) ji – fire (vi) – paggi – cloud – ulllo - heal tjnga – smoke – min – wind – ginga -navel tshanni – fish kabi – murrunge – kavai – sit – down – water – purringai – pagi - thunder – (kuivan) Kulangeor – fly murrunga)sit down water tsharri – ground – dust tjzbirr – bird – njuger ashes – nurral - beast banbarrulung - Oreorca – killie – bark – anamma – wrist kindurr Kindurr – little fly caldur – tjegul – wood – tungurs - pulse warrui – Iguana – kavilla – waddi – kngull - little karga – snake – punga - spear



murri – native dog (mirri worm) bugulun – old man gnaija – belonging to me – karrands – little Koagaroo - female gnindu – you gnurruri – run awai gnallobola – time? – ammanjilli – merry make haste billundarr – scars. (naiall worm – aboe – to go – (yarivan – to go other fellas kungayill – pannikin – Kabir – leap bango – flying squirrel balla – tumble Down noatshe – to lie down [Page 45] uen – bawldheaded frier - Puggubuggo (Puobuo contr.) a legum - plant pin – the whirlling bird – Barramo - Barrams [indecipherable] the muscle shells pudgull - Pai (parrunga Mr. Dennis Bokkara (a black) th. Kangaroorah Kagan – glucking bird – Gnurrung – a small Kangaroo Tjuai – wing – Kalgun – another Kangaroo Nurrundalli – snoring marru – fat – (uinbinn rubraicous little creek tree with delicious scent Bubue – Calostemma - Baja – vitex - Yillo (Fillo) Prev. Mimosoidy - Kundbullu – the spatious scrub tree good to eat Jibirr – Grallina australis - Mafalle Santalum – good to eat Nginngingball Geophays – scripta - Jirrivo Resovnia - Dondull Lotus Cabrran – hat - Yure – salt – minniminjo - horsefly Kumman – the pink bea (an the blackfellow pronounced in putting his tongue between his lips – Bushkey patte Pubue [indecipherable] (from the seeds resembling testicles) Th. Kangarooral) Gnurrung – a small Kangaroo Kalgun another Kangaroo [Page 46] 3d Jan. Mr. Turnbull returned last night without having seen or heard of the mules. I once more hoped to find them in the vicinity of the camp and sent Mr. Turnbull and a blackfellow in one direction and went myself and Wommai North of the cattle track to examine the scrub. We had scarcely left the cattle track for about 2 miles, when we came on track which shortly afterward multiplied in many [indecipherable] paths or spread over the small patches of grass within the scrub. We followed one of the paths to water and returned through the scrub on the broadest path, which soon lead us over a succession of grassy openings to the large camp of the five fugitifs, none of which had broken its hobbles and all of which were in the most excellent condition. They did not allow us to take the hobbles off and we drove them consequently in hobbles to the camp where we were received with a loud cheering.



Yesterday 2 large Iguanas were killed. These animals abound here. Several blacks visited our camp and were very merry during the afternoon and evening. We expect Hely every minute and shall continue our journey as soon as he arrives. 5th Jan. Yesterday we were visited by a great number of natives, perhaps 150 men women and children, part of whom belonged to Bogare (Bokkan) creek and to Koimbaboy, most of whom however came from the lower Condamine. The men were middleaged well made, the young people active and pleasing. The older women worn out as usually, some very pretty girls, one of whom with some albino marks on the neck. – They then offered the girls to several of my companions; some were suffering of several ulcers. Billy and Dennis wished to go with me, but changed their mind over night as is generally the case with natives. They joined the party which went to the Bunya Bunya, this being a year in which a rich harvest of Bunya fruit is expected. The natives were very friendly, but [Page 47] extremely inoportune and inconvenient. As we had wanted their assistance in finding part of our mules and as we had profited by their information, we allowed them to come into our camp and the consequence was, that they crowded to our camp like the flies to our soup. It was even difficult to remove them at night , when our cattle came to camp. The latter bolted several times frightened by the noise which the natives made. They got however accustomed to it in a certain degree and thus even the stay in this long camp becomes useful to us. – I resolved upon starting, as the long stay had rendered the camp a charnel house of killed goats and bullocks sheep, as we suffered much of muskitoes flies and sandflies and of blight and as the natives were too numerous. Hely had not returned and I sent Turnbull and Brown back to meet him. And make him join us, with or without news from Sir Thomas Mitchell. Today we traveled about 6 miles NW by N. to the West branch of Koimba creek and we camp in the shade of some fine young cypress pine trees. Several of our mules were again refractory, but we went on tolerably well not withstanding the upsetting of loads and the lying down of the wayward brutes. – A red grass Dambarm is changing its bark; a pretty acacia shrub with glaucous bipinate leaves grows along the creek with the Cypress pine. The nightwind has been wanting or very weak for some nights, which were close so beautifully clear with moonlights. There are not so many muskitoes in Calibria but plenty of stinging ants. The eggs of [indecipherable] serpta are delicious.



[Page 48] 6th Jan My latitude of last nights cap was according to an observation of Betelguese at 40’past 10 – Fnd Err. + 37” - 26º 35’ 29” (Alt. 55°; 59’11” Decl. 5º 26’) – 7 miles North of Bokkara camp. – Part of our horses and mules had returned to the lat/er camp and we had to wait until 9 ocl. When Wommai returned with them. ¼ past 10 we had were ready to start, though we are short of hands. We kept more to the Northward, but were notwithstanding pulled up by the large Bricklow scrub, which compelled us equally to go to the Northword. We past through an opening of the scrub, over through a fine Ironbark forest 2 miles, an Ironbark and Acacia and Dodonae thicket, a rotten Ironbark slope, Casuarina thickets and came to the Thermometer lagoons, only a little more to the Westward. We traveled 6 hours and about 15 miles good. – It was extremely hot. The large black and grey horseflies are the same, at least the latter, which we observed approaching Pt Essington at the same season. I thought then at the time peculiar to that country. The little Seventree in blossom, Aneilema in fruit, an acacia which approaches the form of the phyllod. Of A. equisetifolia and another with beautiful downy silky phylloid. Which one might call A argeulia Some few cumuli during the day. 9th Jan. We traveled the 7th Jan. about 12 miles NW by N to the chain of lagoons ponds, on which we had camped on my former Exped., we crossed it about 2 miles higher up. The large scrub, probably a continuation of flourspill forced us into our old track, but I passed through a break and kept consequently more to the Westword. Though We avoided by this a good deal of the Iron bark thicket, which we had to pass farther to the Eastward. The lagoon on which we camped was grassy and shallow; it seemed the first of the line; scarcely a quarter of a mile, the channel of the creek became distinct and the ponds larger and deeper. The Muskitoes were extremely troublesom. The 8th We traveled about 9 miles NNW to Dogwood or Cudsora creek, which we crossed, though the bed was rather boggy – Acacia creek, which Mr. Francks had not found, as he had probably crossed Dogwater. below the junction [Page 49] is a creek of middle size, its banks covered with Cypresspine thickets. It is wrong to give names to places from local caracters. Nearer the junction 4-5 species of Acacia grew which induced me to call the creek Acacia creek. When we crossed it this time, very few Acacias limbs were to be seen. Nor did we find any dogwood or nothing to speak of at Dogwood creek on which we camped in lat. 26.24.32, our former camping place being 2 ½ miles lower down in lat. 26.26. I rode down to it with Wommai. This creek had proved extremely rich in plants when I passed it first and we found several fine plants again in blossom; for instance the pink Crassula, the little portulacca. [indecipherable] grew a middle sized tree, Melichorus, and a Leucopogon with rosecoloured berries



[indecipherable] in the center; a species of Piniclia was new to me. – The grasstree abundant. The 9th we traveled NNW about 9 miles over a thickly wooded country. particularly with Cypress pine thickets. The Rosemary myrtle which we saw yesterday first was abundant. The rusty gum was first observed. A fine specimen of Hakea lorea attracted our notice 5 miles from the camp we came on a large rocky creek – which is no doubt Dogwood creek itself or a WNWest tributary, for I am inclined to believe that dried beef creek is the main branch of it. Some patches of fine grassy open Ironbark forest. The Ironbark has lanceolate but glaucous leaves and appears to be very different from the common one. We crossed the creek on a rocky bar with remarkably deep rocky holes. 4 miles farther we came to another creek going down the ESE and probably going to the main branch of Dogwood creek. I was with Wommai to look for Dried beef creek. 2 miles N by W we came to a creek going SE, which was joined by 2 from the Westward, the most Northern one of which I followed to its head, which is about 7 miles NW by W. from our present camp [Page 50] Our latit. By Betelynese is 26º 16’, 4 miles South of Dried beef Creek, which I am going to visit today. The country along Scrub Creek is in part very fine and open in part crossed with Cypress pine. There are few muskitoes here. The night breeze was strong, the moonlight night most beautiful. 10th Feb. I rode yesterday with Wommai up Dried Beef Creek and came on a camp of Hodgson with a tree marked H. We had seen horse tracks all along. About 4 miles from the junction we found our old camp, at which we had killed the first steer. My botanical recollections were the most lively and I recognized the place by a patch of sedges, which I had frequently examined. The remains of huts and forked sticks for drying our meat were still visible: bones of the steer and an old shoe of Caleb were also still extant. When we returned we had very strong puffs of wind from the Westword and SWest, but during the night the NEast breeze is more or less strong, though generally in puffs of various duration. The heat is very great during the day. Mr. Bunce found several interesting little plants, particularly a species of Drosera with long linear leaves on the stem a small campanulaceous plant, a Dodonaca with compound and simple leaves, a leucopogon like little shrub. Casuarina villosa miki grows here, though I observed it first on the Robinson Ranges. Boronia new spec. – Two spce: of Hyledrum One with spatherlate the other with linea leaf adorns the forest. Amongst the grapes I observed a spec. of Paspalum frequently of leptospermum (small shrub) grown along the water, a callistemon was observed near Dogwood Creek. Porantherm (a little [indecipherable] shrub ) was in fruit. The rusty gum in blossom. It is remarkable, how copiously this tree exudes a brown gum when cut.



Today we traveled to Dried Beef camp and went on for a mile farther to shorten if possible the stage to the Dawson. I shall stop here and wait for my companions. Thunder clouds have threatened several times, but have not come up. [Page 51] all the numerous creeks of this country are well watered. They are generally rocky, the rock changing from clay stone into conglomerate and coarse sandstone. The heads are formed by chains of ponds and shallow sedgy waterholes, frequently stretching along Bricklow scrub. Wherever rock crops out, the Cypress pine makes its appearance, particularly along the rocky parts of the creeks where watercourses have laid open the rock. The Cypress pine grows never to a large size: it is rarely 1 foot in diameter. The Ironbark is the prevailing timber[indecipherable], though not particularly good for splitting, the tree is good for its bark: the rusty gum is allied to the bloodwood and probably useful if free from gum veins. The pasturage is exquisite, particularly along the creeks and in the open Ironbar forest and the Boxflats. [indecipherable] lily grows however abundantly among the various grasses and so does the “rusty grass” and the “gold oats:. Two grasses, of which the cattle are not particularly fond. The silk acacia and the viscous acacia are very frequent. We found yesterday a new Coranthus on the forest oak; it has [indecipherable] or slightly flattened leaves which are as well as the blossoms growing. Our cattle mules and horses do exceedingly well; but some of the mules suffer of sore backs. The blight seems to leave us, but my eyes feel generally extremely stiff during my watch and in the morning; it is as if they were grating on their hinges and wanted oiling. The little bird which charmed us with its warbling though monotonous note is a fly catcher metallic black and white with grey on the tail. (Mezomela?) [Page 52] Set of lunar observations made Monday the 11th Jan 1847 [Table not transcribed] The observations were made with One Sextant, the Fwd. Error of which was + 37”. The longitude derived from these observations was 151º30’ 13th Jan. A day before yesterday I examined with Wommai my former scrub passage and found on returning that in keeping N by W. or NNW. I could avoid the scrub altogether and travel in an open country. These three days I have waited for Turnbull and Hely; to day morrow I shall travel on again uncapable to account for their strange delay. – This camp is not farther than 70 miles from Gage and one could come from there in 3 days on horseback without distressing the animals.



In passing through the scrub Wommai pointed to a native grave next to me it was oval and the length of a man, a gentle tumulus, but old and with some straggling weeds. It was on the other side of the scrub that I observed the only grave during my Expedition Past night was very cloudy with a cold NEast wind. It is cloudy this morning [Page 53] and looks like a change of weather – The whole place becomes so covered with horse mule and cattle track, that it is difficult to distinguish the new from the old ones: this is another reason to proceed. 4 natives came up this morning and Wommai had some talk with him. They called him Jimmy, which shows, that he had seen Blackfellows of Bokkara Creek Our Kangaroo dog Spring which I received from Mr. Howe is so footsore, after 4 short stages that he will not go much farther; it is inexplicable to me how a dog can be so soft for only one of our stages was longer than 10 miles. [indecipherable] Kangaroos were numerous on the other side of the scrub in the close Ironbark forest, which was well provided with young grass. – The 15th Jan. Yesterday we left Dried Beef Creek, where several well made natives paid us a visit and keeping NNW we avoided the scrub altogether and arrived at the watercourse which goes down to the Dawson. We followed it about 2-3 miles and camped not 500 yards from our former camp. Swift had pursued a kangaroo which we found dead in our road. We past about 1 mile before coming to camp the oval tomb of a native which had a simple tumulus, kept clean and sheltered with dry branches. It was here that we had found the grave 2 ½ years ago. These natives are perhaps in the habit of interring their dead. Those natives who came near our camp, wished evidently to please us, for when they saw me trying to catch one of our mules they too tried to keep him in. Mr. Turnbull told one that he had heard the glucking bird at Koimba creek the only time it has been heard, though it was calling through the whole night on our former Expedition. – last night I observed the Boiling point of water [Page 54] and determined our elevation to be 1462 feet. [Calculations not transcribed] I followed the watercourse down to its junction with the Dawson which is here well supplied with water. Heavy cumuli past during the afternoon and some few drops of rain fell. After sunset the sky got cloudy and rain set in which continued with interruptions during the night, the morning and noon. At about 1 pm it cleared up and we have at present a sunny day with a few cumuli moving to the westword. The clouds



last night came from SW.- The rain was not heavy enough to prevent our starting. With a NW by West and NNW course we past over a fine open undulating country until we arrived into the broad flat valley of the Dawson. Scrub and clusters of Cypress pine made again their appearance. The upper Dawson is one of the finest countries I have seen and it is a pity that it is of so small extend. It would be large enough for 2 settlers, but scarcely for more. The open Box tree rises are particularly beautiful. Yesterday Perry saw a very large remarkable Nautis in a silver leaved Acacia; several grasshoppers are singularly marked. – I had to blame Bukking for idleness. I am afraid the young man misunderstood [Page 55] his position, though I had explained to him clearly enough what I wanted him for when he came and asked permission to go with me. We had a most delicious Kangaroo roast for supper last night, but I am sorry to say it affected my bowels and this with the wet of today made me very uncomfortable. I have suffered already several times of Rheumatism in the thighbone and I am afraid I shall suffer more. Brown complained very much of pains in the chest and I myself suffer sometimes. Swift and Camden killed an enormous old man kangaroo 7’ long from head to tail, the tail 5 feet and 2 inches. He defended himself well and gave some deep scratches to our dogs. A pretty sida, the scrub star grass and the native wheat are growing round our present camp. 16th Jan. We traveled about 9 miles N75ºand past two of our camps, leaving them and the large windings of the creek to our left. The country was most beautiful – box slopes with dark soil on sandstone rock of yellowish colour, which is excellent for grinding stones. A great variety of grasses and herbs amongst the other particularly one grass resembling paspalum but bearded. The Oaten grass with its high elegant loose panicles frequent: the marrow leaved sida of yesterday. Authenoum and the Red Pimelea which Calvert first found on his dogtrip. The woolgrass has sometimes 10 spikes. Turnbull brought a composita looking like Achillea. Farther on we past equally open Silverleaved Ironbark ridges. The Boxflats along the river are extensive and until now open. Further to the right a belt of scrub forms a dark barrier along the top of the ridges. [Page 56] It is natural to suppose that such a fine country is densely inhabited by natives. We see their tracks every where and past 3 trees which they had cut down with Iron tomahawks and from which they must have obtained a great quantity of honey: but we have not seen any of them. When Last night the sky was overcast and we had a few drops of rain. Some changes are going on in the atmosphere during new moon: This morning it cleared up a little but we had



still a delightful cool traveling weather which was however occasionally intercepted by those scorching sunny moments which are common in sultry weather, when the atmosphere is impregnated with moisture. The Dew was very strong last night. At noon heavy thunderstorms formed almost in every direction, and threatened to come up, but past without rain. Even now at half past 5 thunder is heard to the Eastword. We came about 11 miles NW or NW by W. 17th Jan. I kept today more distant from the river at first NNW, afterwards WNW NW and even W. The first part of the stage lay through Boxtree flats and openly timbered ridges; farther on scrub and scrub plains became frequent and though extremely picturesque intercepted my course and pushed me to the Westword and to the windings of the river. Baichinia was first observed: the leaflets are so small that I think it is a species different from those of the Northwest the scrub plains were extremely rich in pasturage. The grasses extremely various the Birdmillet the Woolgrass, the oatengrass 7 feet high. We encamped at a backwater of the Dawson or rather at a chain of lagoons: at the pool of silver leaved Iron bark Red gums. Several Kangaroos were seen; a very fat Iguana was killed. This morning my riding horse was missing and I left Turnbull and Brown behind to find it and to bring it after me. Turnbull found it and came after me, Brown has not yet returned. Sky cloudy in the morning, very hot [Page 57] during the day, occasional cool puffs from the NW and Westword. The wood of Coxeus Acacia is very hard, its heartwood brown, its juice abundant and bitter perhaps a colouring matter. The young very brittle. - it wants the secret of the myall. Turnbull found a very singular little insect (Orthopterous) with two prominent horns on the thorax – One single call of the glucking bird was heard last night. A great number of Native Dogs were howling round our camp the 18th Jan. We camped last night at a fine lagoon which belonged to the watercourse, that collected the waters from the hills and carried them one mile further to the river. I determined our latitude by Procyon to be 25 34 – one and a half mile South of our camp of the field of Everlastings. Today I traveled for 2 miles NNW and came on the river and our camping place; from there I turned NNE ½ E and past along Charleys passage but still more to the Eastword over the fine scrub plains and over open silverleaved Ironbark ridges when I met the river again. – Several fine Kangaroos were seen but the dogs were not allowed to run in order to keep them in good condition for our Expedition. The river keeps for some time NNE but turns soon to the N and N by W : I kept a NNW course which lay through a fine openly timbered country Boxflats (some swampy) and silver leaved Iron bark ridges and after 10 miles traveling I turned to the valley and encamped at a fine lagoon, which I suppose to be in lat. 25. 44. – the Valisneria (blue flower) which I collected at Big Hill camp Burdekin, was found in full magnificent blossom in some dry lagoons, the whole bottom of which was covered with them: - the country is by far superior to that near the banks of the river, where Boxtree saplings form frequently



most embarrassing thickets. Slight shower of rain came on during the afternoon from NW and I am afraid, that we shall feel some inconvenience from the rainy season [Page 58] there is a fresh in the Dawson, which runs very strong and high and will render a crossing difficult. – Our sheep travel well – our goats are still knocking up. The 20th Jan. Yesterday and to day we traveled in a nearly Northerly course, but tacking from NE to NW almost uninterruptedly over a fine open country. [indecipherable] Box slopes with their luxuriant grasses, Boxflats, Silverleaved Ironbark ridges and scrub plains were the leading features. The valley of the river and its approaches were covered with scrub and with thickets of Box saplings. The most striking landscape was that of the bottle tree hills or downs. As we ascended the plain hill a fine country with distant ranges opened before us, and the stately bottlebrush one of which measured 2 ½ fathoms in circumference were scattered over the grassy downs. In the valley the light green of the Box Saplings made an agreeable contrast towards with the yellowish tint of the grasses, which covered those downs in the utmost variety and profusion and between which myriads of Orthopterous insects and little finches moved in every direction. Turnbull found several very interesting grasshoppers, particularly one green and white spotted locust, which we had met also on our former expedition. – I have hit the very junction of Palmtree creek if I am not mistaken, in keeping more to the Eastward, than formerly. The River is high and we have probably to wait some days before we shall be able to cross. Our goats and sheep suffer very much in traveling through the long grass. It was oppressively hot, 90º f in the shade. We had a thundershower with a few drops of rain yesterday, and a similar seems to threaten today. The force to the N and NE down the river. I was very ill the last 2 days but feel better today. [Page 59] 21 Jan We stopt at the Dawson and I went reconnoitering to ascertain, at what part of the river we were. I found, that we were about 7 miles above the junction of palmtree creek in lat 25.37.30, very near to one of our old camps. One the Bottletree Ridges Swift killed a Halmaturus manicatus a fine male with fat in the mesentery. Mann went and took bearings and sketches of Gilberts and Lynds Range adding the Bottle tree and the caracter of the country. Wommai and Brown destroyed a large nest of hornuts and got the comb full of grubs, which th oval (elliptical) 1 1/4 “ long 1’ broad, which they roasted, and which we found most excellent to eat. I have never seen so many hornuts, they gave us a great deal of annoyance and Brown was once thrown from his horse in consequence of its being stung by hornuts. The comb is not stalked. We meet also a great number of webs of the Big Epeira of N.S. Wales with its silky golden coloured threats. Some are however not so richly coloured, which depends perhaps on the age or the sex. Another Epeira with spinous tubules prettily and strikingly marked with red and white is also common.



I found a log across the creek and determined upon making it our bridge to cross the River. The 22d – Jan We moved down to the log about 3 miles NE and carried at first our things over, after that we drove over our horses mules and cattle, which did not give us much trouble; at last we had to cross our goats and sheep, which required almost all to be plunged in and as we had made no folds they were constantly breaking out and give us the greatest trouble. I found that many were weak and lame in con – [Page 60] sequence of the dog biting them. Whenever his tooth breaks the skin an ulceration takes place which ends with the death of the animal. The Billy goat was lame and this morning we was no where to be found, a common trick of these animals when getting weary. The 23 Jan We traveled down to the junction of Palmtree creek and up it nearly to Ropers lake, where we are comfortably encamped. – We had thunderstorms almost every day, but few with rain; it cleared up in the middle of the night and got cloudy again in the morning. The direction was from WNW. I had to blame B. for his bad attention to the goats. I must say, he has been ailing the whole time that he is with us. – 24th Jan. We traveled about 9 miles WNW. I made the lat. Of yesterdays camp by an observation of Regulus 25º 33’. It was about 1 mile below our camp at Ropers Lake which we past without being able to observe any mark left of our former stay. I followed at first the creek up, left I and past over a hilly openly timbered or scrubby country and came with a NW course again on the creek or on its tributaries from the left. It is very winding with steep banks and at present rather boggy. To avoid these windings I kept to the westward until scrub pushed me again to the Northward. Here I came on the extensive swamps which I had to go round and which prevented me to reach an old camp of ours We encamped near a small temporary water hole at the outskirts of large reedy swamps – Opposite the two scrubby hills, which form the end of Gilberts Range. – I chesnut horse was seen but it was extremely wild and took immediately to the bush. A new spec. of Paspalum and a new grass are [Page 61] growing round this waterhole. 25 Jan. The night as several preceeding ones, was very dewy, the muskitoes very troublesome notwithstanding. We had scarcely travel Several snakes were observed by my companions in the shallow waterhole, at which we camped. The whole reedy swamp was under water, it was enlivened by numerous warblers of the reeds, which imitated during the whole night one shaking strain of the nightingale. We had scarcely traveled ½ mile when we came on that deep channel with chains of ponds, on which we had camped formerly, and which I thought we had past yesterday. This channel seems



to be lost in the reedy swamps. 3 miles farther, through a rich reedy and [indecipherable] country, singularly irregular and with deep holes, we came to the Robinsons creek, which was not running, though with water left by the last rains. The grasses were very rich and a noticed particularly a large rough one with broad blady leaf and succulent stem of which horses and mules appeared very fond. We crossed Rob. Cr. And went to the westward, until we came again to the creek. The intervening country is marshy and rich. We crossed the Creek opposite to Murphys Lakes and kept for 8 miles a westerly course, passing a deep channel about 2 miles on. The flats are extensive open well grassed the ridges open. We missed the lakes we had noticed on the former journey, but crossed several swamps, particularly at the foot of the ridges. I had to go SW to meet the creek again, which was sparingly reedy and contained shallow pools of water, probably reminants of the last rains. – It was as usually very hot. My collection of insects with the valuable mantis is lost Poor. J.! a bad beginning for you! [Page 62] 26th Jan. By latitude by Betelgueze was 25º 29’ (S.E. + 37”) I made an observation on the elevation of the place at half past 6 ocl. In the morning, the thermometer being 74º [Calculation here not transcribed] We have entered the mountains and camp opposite the place where I took the Kangaroo net from the natives. The place is about 8 miles west from our last camp; but the creek turns to the Northward and Southward and renders the road crooked, gullies are numerous: the creek was slightly running with most beautiful water. Bunce found the Pink Passion flower (Dosemma). It is 2 oclock and a thundershower is at hand. Grass most plentiful. The grey horse still very lame 27th Jan We past over the Range and hit a good descent, though still tremendously rocky and steep. The mules carried their load admirably. We past our old camping place where we observed the marked tree and crossed the creek. I kept a little too much to the Northward but on westing came to the swamp , which I had visited with Gilbert and Southing came to the creek where I camped on a fine supply of water. The creek is reedy, the bed sandy, the banks in part rocky. Palmtrees occasionally and Herculias likewise. Last night we heard several glucking Birds”. I was dreaming [Page 63] a few minutes before I was called by Turnbull that I was traveling along when I heard several glucking birds. I immediately called the attention of all my companions to the note and told them to prepare to shoot one of them. At that moment I was called and the [indecipherable] was of calling and getting up made the dream vanish. I had scarcely left the bed when Turnbull asked me whether I had heard the glucking bird, which had been heard a few moments before by him and Wommai and now my dream returned with all its liveliness, showing how rapidly the impressions during sleep are



interwoven with a chaotic mass of others into as it were most rapid [indecipherable] which disappear to give room to others. 28th Jan I went with Wommai to find water in a proper distance towards the head of the Robinson and Melaleuca creek. We found five holes at the continuation of the Robinson 8 miles NW by N from our camp. – the 29th I moved with my whole camp to the place and went out to find the my old camp at Melaleuca creek and my passage over the Range. I succeeded [indecipherable] a good deal of riding . It gave me opportunity to see the upper part of Melaleuca creek which is well watered. The waterhole at which we had encamped was however dried up. The forked sticks and drying sticks still remained, though the bushfire had singed them. 30th Jan. we past over the Range and are encamped at our old camp with its fine pineapple and flooded gum tree. The descent at the opposite side of the gully was easier than the former one. Grevillia polystachya with red rather scattered blossoms underneath and a little compressed pods grows on the rocky places. The little species of [indecipherable] tree I have mentioned in my former journal. Bunce found just now a fine gentianacous plant near the waterhole and a new sedge and gratiola. The weather has been very fine and generally cloudy, excellent for travelling the grass is most [Page 64] luxuriant and many more waterholes are filled in this valley than in Novbr. 1843. Some of my companions still suffer of blight and a day before yesterday allmost all complained of weakness in the knees and feet, probably becoming more conscious of it by going up and down the steep banks of the Robinson. I made an observation on the elevation 4 p.m. Thermom. 95º [Calculation not transcribed] I have visited the rocky bed of the Boyd. It is usually like that of the Robinson. The approaches are very scrubby. Plenty of water but I did not observe it running. Scattered Corypha palms – linea leaved Acacia, Leucopogon. Phylianthus with red fruit, Cassia with long falcate pods, a woolly Euphorbraceous plant. 1st Febr. – Yesterday we left Anthill camp and kept instead N b E or N to NE by N in order to come at once to the junction of East palmtree Cr. And Ruined Castle creek. I past a great number of easterly creeks but found myself caught by tremendous rocky barriers which surrounded the heads of those creeks. I returned to the next water and camped about 5 miles NE by N or NNE from Ant camp. During the afternoon I reconnoitred with [Page 65] Brown and having past round the high rocky ridges through a fine gap , I came to the westerly routes and 4 miles N by E to Rocky seat camp, where I found my mark and even the forked sticks. Today the 1st Febr. I went with my camp to that place and past it keeping NE. I came to gullies which I was afraid belonged to the Boyd; I consequentally



kept still more to the SE and came on East Palm tree creek and to the junction of Ruined Castle Creek under the mountain. I followed the latter creek up and found it extremely rocky and difficult for about 2-3 miles, where it commenced to open and to form gentle slopes well grassed and openly timbered going down to it on both sides - We had a thunderstorm and heavy rain last night. It was cloudy with thunder during the afternoon. Rain is still hanging about us, particularly to the Eastward, from where last nights thunderstorm came. – Yesterday on a sandy slope I observed an aborescent Zamia with an almost ripe fruit cone, fully 1½ foot long. I was gratified to find that I had not been mistaken in calling it Zamia at Zamia creek, when I first met with it [indecipherable] state. The Zamia australis grows also frequently here and Wommai who ate some of its fruit was taken violently ill. He vomited and has at present recovered. 2 Febr. Several interesting plants were gathered by Bunce Perry Turnbull on the rocky sandstone cliffs round one camp. The penniate woolly Dodonaea, Boronia (very much like B. ledifolia) Leucopogon, Dendrobium (very much like Kingis) Astrotriche, Caustis, Grevillia with most beautiful red wax like looking flowrs, Pimelea; Acacia with long almost [indecipherable] canaliculate leaves with pods. Hovea with round woolly pods, Hibertia, Comespernum elliptrotanicolate acute leaf, short stiff hair perpendicularly sticking out the little [indecipherable] tree bright (smooth) yellow seed vessels, ficus australis with small yellow fruit, a species [Page 66] of Xeranthemum with glabous sticky and aromatic leaves covered with glands, Notalaea and probably another species or genus of Oleineae with elongated slightly pink coloured berries – I have forgotten to mention, that Mr. Bunce brought two nearly allied rubiaceous trees from the rocky hill near our camp. The one had a red fruit not yet entirely ripe with a strong adstringent taste and no doubt good to eat when ripe. The fruit was [indecipherable] two and three [indecipherable] the axil with separate fruit stalks. The other had axillary racemes. We had rain during the whole night almost not slight but continuing without thunder, it is still very cloudy. The country is most beautifully grassed and the supply of water by far greater than 2 years ago. Fine apple trees along the creek floor. The Dogwood grows abundantly here; I have not observed the disagreeable smell when it is burnt, of which people speak in other parts of the colony – The white horse refused to go any further yesterday and I shall have probably to stay here for today to give it some rest. We saw a fine large Wallurn and a light grey kangaroo, spotted, as Brown said. Few parrots make their appearance as none of the Eucalyptus is in blossom, some flights of Moreton B. Rosellas were observed. D[indecipherable] Dawson and Palmtree Creek. [another language] – Probab That branch of the Dawson which we touched first and along which we came down, is probably not the main branch; for it was without water,



whilst the river was flooded lower down, and a suppose that the flood came down a more westerly or S Westerly larger channel – We have There are four descriptions of country on that part of the river, we have seen: & the undulating country at its highest part with narrow leaved Ironbark and patches of Cypress pine and with a frequently puffy soil. 2. the extensive [Page 67] Box and flooded gum flats on its upper and middle part, 3. the fine Box slopes on the middle part, which are hemmed in with Bricklow scrub and are frequently connected with the fine picturesque grassy scrub downs; which form the 4th description of country, both have the greatest variety of grasses and the finest pasture. The Bottle tree ridges belong to the same class: 5. the silver leaved Ironbark ridges, well grassed and sound, but with less variety of grasses – I may mention as a 6th – the flat (Approaches of the river covered with Box saplings, which form rather a peculiar character of the lowest part of the Dawson we have seen. – The upper part of the river will be deficient in water: the middle part has plenty of fine lagoons at the foot of the ridges; at the lower part squatters would perhaps have to go to the river to form his head station; but here the belts of scrub which separates the river from the open Downs is rarely very broad – Palmtree creek made not such a good impression on me this time as two years ago; then I kept more to the creek and saw less of the scrub: but notwithstanding the scrub there is a great extent of fine country. Some points of the higher Robinson are very fine; but the country is too mountainous. The valleys of the Boyd are beautifull and we rarely saw so much fine country as between Ant camp and the Eastern creeks. – 2 Febr. Afternoon Observation on the elevation at 5 oclock in the afternoon Thermom. 82. [Observation table not transcribed] [Page 68] We traveled today 3 miles NNW when we were compelled to stop in consequence of our grey horse refusing to travel. Heavy rain set in during the afternoon from the Northward. It is clearing up towards 5 oclock pm. We are scarcely a ¼ mile from Wallobi camp where we stopt 2 years ago; we are higher up the creek. 3 d febr. We had a fine night and it is clear day with the exception of occasional heavy clouds. This morning I sent Turnbull and Brown for the grey horse, which they found lying down in the most wretched condition. It would take a fortnight to get it round and I have consequently decided upon leaving it – Why this loss I know not, I have not made willingly a mistake in riding which might have produced the sudden and violent inflammation of the fetlock and Turnbull has done everything in his power to cure it by



the application of warm lye water, by scarifying and bleeding . I leave it in a most beautiful country and I hope it will soon recover and enjoy itself. – I found a small leguminous plant with solitary long stalked yellow blossoms pinnate leaves unequally [indecipherable] leaflets, with the [indecipherable] stem covered with glandular hair the seedvessel is articulate. It grows amongst the grass on the silverleaved Iron bark ridges – Stringy Bark is abundant on the sandy slopes under the rocks. – A Kangaroo rat was caught. – Our sheep though bad travelers are very fit and our goats though good handlers are very weak and poor. In consequence of an unfortunate fall, my watch is out of order and we are almost entirely without watches, as it is constantly stopping. Manns watch and my chronometer were out of order long time ago, and the latter I had to send back to Mr. Lynd. Manns watch is hopeless. We shall be probably unable to make lunar observation. It is very distressing. [Page 69] The creek offers below our camp a very fair section. The hill is a coarse grained sandstone, the upper strata in the creek are a yellow clayy sandstone; with turns into claystone. both the latter contain a great number of impressions of waterplants with parallel veins and I observed several impressions of Equisetums or perhaps Calomets with distinct articulations but no visible sheath. If we remember that they found occur at the Condamine that I found them at the Dawson (Calorb plants and fields of Everlastings) and that the coal exists on the Mackenzie, we easely conclude that the whole country is of one sandstone formation with generally undisturbed almost horizontal layers. 4 febr. After having taken leave from our poor grey horse Lavender, which remained in one of the most delightful places of Australia, I traveled up the creek to the WNW and changing higher up to the NW. I did not hit our former gap, but came at once into easterly creeks. This made me believe, that I had to go still more to the Westward and I crossed consequently very rugged ridges along the upper part of Castle Creek, avoiding all the eastern waters. When I however descended along a gully I came to to brushcreek, with dense vinebrush on both sides, which soon turned out to be a westerly water, I had to bear back and having come on an easterly gully I descended until it opened and encamped on an open spot of silverleaved Ironbark forest with fine pools of water in rocky holes, which had been collected during the late rains. During the afternoon I followed this watercourse down and found that it was the father flat of Zamia creek along which I had descended to the latter creek 2 years ago. – Several interesting little trees were observed in the scrub and a visible change of the vegetation took place. A prickly Acacia resembling a little a. famesiana, the arborescent zamia, the smaller Bottle brush



[Page 70] were frequent Erythrina, White Cedar. the small Bursaria like tree the blossom of which I had gathered in the flow Mulescrub at Bokkara Creek was found in fruit. It is round pubescent ½ inch in diameter with five visible lines. It is unicapular unilocular with 5 lateral placentas and many small compressed seeds. A little tree with plumlike leaf, oval bright green alternate – had a fruit like a large stone but no hard kernel, it was mouv[indecipherable] with large cotyledons and had a remarkably strong smell of aqua lauroceasi 4 dentate calyx 4 divisions of the corolla (aestivate. valvate). The petals with hair inside, 8 stamens 1 justile Pittosporum lineas folium, Copporis with brown rugged fruit. – an asclepiad aceous climber with big sub oval seed vessels. I have to mention that Mr. Bunce brought the following plants from the little hill opposite our camp at Castle Creek. Haya, Dodonea with linea leaves Ziersa with woolly leaf, Hibbertia with downy subdentate and dentate leaf the common Ranunculus was found in the flats. The Rubinaceous little tree of ant camp was also collected. Cissus was common along Zamia creek, a little tree with pubescent leaf and [indecipherable] seedvessel belonging to the Conebritaceae (Terminalia) – a little Rubraceous Shrub. pp. In the farther flat which was covered with the richest grass I have ever have seen a [indecipherable] with small white blossoms formed a maze very difficult to pass through and Clematis did the same on many spots of the creek Today the 5th febr: we went down to Zamia creek passed Vanga Vanga camp and went as far as White Kangaroo camp, where we are at present the creek is much better provided with water and grass than 2 years ago. [Page 71] I made an observation on the elevation of the upper part of Falken flat at our last camp. It was immediately after sunrise the thermometer 62º. [Table following not transcribed] fine breeze from the Northward. Sky very clear, with scarcely a cloud; but it cleared up a day before yesterday with a westerly breeze My latitude of last night appr. by Pollyx. 25º 6’ the 6th Febr. The night was very clear until 12 oclock, when marestales drew over the sky, which thickened into clouds from the NE with sheet lightening: This morning was again clear. When Brown came in with the mules and horses Donkedos was missing: I had without knowing it commenced and finished loading and started before Brown returned leaving Turnbull to watch his breakfast: after having past the rocky and



mountainous part of the creek and arrived up the flats about 5 miles from the camp; I was afraid, that Brown had not succeed in finding the animal and went consequently into camp in case I might have to return for him myself. Brown and Turnbull arrived however soon after us with the mule which has a large swelling on its near side in consequence of the pressure of the saddle - Mt Nicholson & Aldis Peak was both in sight, the first to the NW, the other to the Northward. The lat. of last camp, which I made 25º 0. last journey I made 24º 59 with [Page 72] an observation of the altitude of Bellatrix. – the grass is extremely rich and forms a great contrast with the burnt up appearance 2 years ago the grass with a broad flat leaf, annual with a long black aristae. which I found in the tropics particularly at the Lynd and thought particular to them, I met yesterday at Zamia creek in the greatest abundance – Wommai said that he had seen aborescent Zamias at Pt Marquory, I do not believe him, but shall ascertain the truth of his statement. I think he has mistaken the Pandamus for Zamia. The bottle tree is abundant at the scrub of Zamia creek it is prhaps different from that we have met at the Dawson. Its young alburnum tastes well with sugar. We had a mess of [indecipherable]. The 7th febr We travelled today round Aldis’s peak, to which I approached much nearer than formerly passing through scrub along a watercourse, which brought me down to the swamps full of water SE of the Peak – after having traveled about 7 miles NNE I left Zamia creek and kept NNW which brought me over some open silverleaved Ironbark ridges and some scrub to the swampy lagoons, to which I wished to come. It was excessively hot 98º in the shade at 1 oclock. Thunderstorms threatened from W.N and NE. but none came up. The thermometer sank however to 80º I observed flindersia pyramidalis [indecipherable], which I had seen at the Mackenzie - and another very aromatic little tree or shrub. I made observations with my boiling apparatus at 4 pm. 80º therm. [Following table not transcribed] elevation 897 feet above the level of the sea. [Page 73] the 8th febr. We traveled from the lagoons off Aldis’s Peak first to the NNW but were soon compelled by scrub to go NE and NNE. We skirted the scrub and found waterholes and swamps all along full of water. When we came to the Boxflats of Rogers stray donys which was extremely soft and strained our mules very much. I kept more to the NE in following a scrub creek, than I had done formerly and when I made my NW course for Expedition creek through an open silver leaved Ironbark forest, characterized forth on by the acacia of [indecipherable], I came on the creek below the junction with Erythenia



creek; following a new course after having crossed it, I came on Erythrina creek itself flowing to my left and I thought it was a branch of Expedition creek itself. I left it but soon found out my mistake, the country becoming scrubby and unknown to me. Brown equally thought that the creek we had left was our former camp creek. I returned and camped. The ground was extremely heavy and strained my mules very much: one was to be reloaded sinking to its belly into the ground. I rode during the afternoon with Brown up the creek and came in about 2½ miles to Erythrina camp, where the reachpole of Gilberts tent alone was left. During the night of 7th as well as the 8th febr. we had a long lasting thunder and rain. It was extremely close and sultry: the ground was steaming, flies and blowflies and muskitoes were swarming and not only our blankets but even our red shirts were blown and maggots were really and truly crawling all over my body. – We spread however green branches on the ground on which we put our blankets to prevent the moisture from affecting our health and none is suffering with the exception of Wommai, who has not yet recovered from the repast of Zamiafruit, complaining constantly of violent headaches: even Bunce was complaining of the latter for a day, probably in consequence [Page 74] of the heat which was 98º f. in the shade: I suffered of Diarrhoea, but a meal of palmtreeshoots made me the better of it, not only stopping the distemper but giving me a fine healthy appetite, which is well satisfied with perhaps the finest primest mutton, that ever was selected for the table of an Alderman. The constant change of fresh grass renders the meat undoubtedly extremely savoury and sweet. The 9th Febr. As my mules were very tired and the ground still heavier in consequence of last nights rain I went only to the foot of the range between 3-4 miles passing our old camp for about 2 miles. The creek is running as well as Expedition creek were we looked for water in vain 2 years ago. – Some days ago Brown caught a fine lizard belonging to the lacerta? about 1¼ foot long and all over with ocellate spots. Turnbull found a small pretty lizard belonging to the geckonsclae today amongst the stones and under which a great number of scorpions live, one of which was covered with young ones. I found a very pretty yellow leguminous plant with rough pod and Bunce a fine small species of Polygala. Turnbull gathered a not yet opened thyrsus of Hakea Corea. – Observation on the elevation at ½ 5 oclock pm 88º f therm. [Following table not transcribed] [Page 75] the 10th febr. We past over the range, a fatiguing long stage; Brown was of great use to me with his power of recollection and of recognizing the various spurs and gullies. But



we missed not withstanding the spur on which we had descended 2 years ago and went down much quicker and much easier than before. – Some of the views were magnificent, particularly from the last whinstone spoke, when the ranges to the SE and NW were visible. The woolly Grevillia which I had formerly seen in blossom was in fruit, not yet or partly ripe on the sandstone spurs, where also an acacia similar to A. anceps and several other interesting acacias grew, particularly a pendulous shrub from 2-6 feet high, a Boronia was also gathered on Erythrina creek I observed a stringy bark along the creek which I had not seen before but which resembled much the species of Eucalyptus Will Macarthur got from Argyle: it has a glaucous subfalcate lancelote rather large leaf. An interesting leguminous plant with kernate leaf, racemes of yellow blossoms of the [indecipherable] compressed strigose many seeded pods grew in the flats: a fine little [indecipherable] plant with simple leaves like that I gathered on the Gwydir grew on the whinstone rges the real stringy bark the Rosmary Myrtle, 4-5 species of acacia, the grasstree, Pomaderris [indecipherable] tree grew on the sandstone ridges. The silverleaved Ironbark and the arborescent Zamia formed the open forest of the basaltic hills. These were clad in the most beautiful verdure, and formed one of the finest contrasts with the low dry sandstone scrub – the small creek of the NW side to which we descended was running with water – very different from the time I descended two years ago, in December. – the weather was cloudy, the morning with a heavy shower of rain, the night calm and sultry the 11th febr. I followed the creek down into the scrubby flat country. As long as the rocky ground lasted our jaded mules traveled well, but when we came into the flats, the ground was so cloggy and heavy, that the poor brutes [Page 76] suffered very much and three were bogged at once at one of the numerous crossing places of the many winding creek, which had in general a WSW course I found a species of Datura (perhaps that of the Suttor in the flat) Turnbull caught a great number of interesting grasshoppers and mantissu, with which the grass and herbage is swarming: there was particularly a bright yellow one, which excited my attention but which evaded Turnbulls hands most successfully. I was sure that this creek would be either Browns lagoon creek” or Blackfellows creek” and I determined to follow it, but in order to see how the ground was I rode with Brown about 6 miles down. I never had such a ride. The ground was so heavy that my mule sank in to the belly and yet then was a yellow loamy ground, which was already so hard and dry, that, that it clustered under the horses hoofs. We had to return as only my mule was scarcely able to bring me back. We saw a hill to our right, which no doubt is the hill under which we camped at Myall camp. The long stretched hill to our left in the contrary is that for which Charley and myself steered in looking for water when we were attracted by the Myall hill. – We ascended a fine ridge full of Bottle trees on which I observed the bunches of empty dried seed vessels.



When we came first to Erythrina creek a great number of blowflies suddenly appeared which not only blowed with maggots our sheepskins, but all our blankets our shirts and tarpawlings. These nasty insects were equally frequented during the 3 last days and as the moist weather allowed the maggots to live we scarcely could defend ourselves against their numbers. My poncho for instance had a piece of opossum cloak round the slit. This was blown and as it commenced to rain and I had my head through the slot, thousand came into the hair of my head and beard and I was teaming with maggots all over my body [Page 77] which was worse than lice, tried my substance boring most eagerly into my skin. I washed I combed, I brushed and with the latter I tolerably succeeded in cleaning myself most terribly disgusted with the filthy things. – During our reconnoitring ride two thunderstorms formed – one to the southward, the other to the North, which gave us a slight sprinkling but which flooded the camp. During the night heavy rain came on again, which set again the flat almost under water and made the creek rise bank high. Its roaring sound as it came down the valley sounded like a strong wind and I was glad to hear it, until I recognized the real cause. I have forgotten to mention that the Bottle tree exudes a white transparent tasteless gum, a good quantity of which was collected by Brown at Zamia Creek. The [indecipherable] albrnum tastes well with sugar. Mr. Bunce had spoilt his stomach and got very ill. Wommai got the fever, or a near approach to it: I gave them 2gr. of tartar emetic and both are much better though the medicine did not make Bunce vomit. Bunces constitution is worn out, or very weak, he seems to have lived a wild and according to my opinion a bad life, when he was young. He should never have joined my expedition while to bear the fatigues, he requires the assistance of Providence. – He has been constantly complaining and doctoring of an eruption at the anus, perineum and penis, which I cannot help thinking of a venereal character, though he does not admit any intercourse with unclean woman. I myself commence to be troubled with boils,which have been allways the followers of rainy sultry weather, of much riding and want of cleanliness; a man cannot keep clean in a climate and living like ourselves, who does not [Page 78] bathe regularly every day. The perspiration and accumulation of dirt in the skin is enormous. We heard the call of the Satin bird at Erithrina camp, the Vonga Vonga pigeon was very numerous in the NWest gullies. Pomatorlignches tibicea with its gurgling note is heard during the morning. – We noticed the laughing jackass of Pt Essington (D. cervina) according to the note at the Condamine the Dawson but at the Robinson Ruined Castle Creek, Zamia Creek and here we hear nothing but Dacelo giganteus.



the 12th of February We stopt at the camp of last night to give a spell to our mules and cattle During the night we had a long tremendous rain which swampt the tents and rendered the flat extremely boggy. I rode with Brown to a sandstone hill bearing WNW from the camp, believing that our old Myal camp was at the NW side. That was however not the case: we saw a small hill NW from the top of that on which we were and beyond it there were those plains which we had crossed in coming from waterless camp. I now determined to make if possible Myal camp next day. Bottle trees were very numerous in the scrub on and round the hill and were past several fresh nests of the native turquey. One we examined and found after 2½ -3 feet digging in the center of the large heap 2 eggs; we roasted them, but when opening them for eating we found young ones in both, one very near hatching, the other very young – The 13th February. We had again heavy rain: the creek was roaring and banked up but ran off very quickly. We started and went round the WNW hill over entirely scrubby country, being frequently compelled by impenetrable scrub and thicket to turn from our road. The ground was very heavy, and when we came to the openings at the SEast side of the little hill, it became so heavy that I camped. [Page 79] along a running water course. We could not walk with our shoes, but had to go bare foot and it was with the greatest difficulty that we were able to keep our bullocks during the night, on riding constantly round them I determined to follow the water course down, finding that there was much easier travelling along it. 14th febr. We had traveled yesterday about 7 miles NW. Our goats knocked up a mile from the camp. Turnbull fetched them up towards night. Today in following the water course we traveled about 6-7 miles WNW. We past whinstone hills and a little sugarloaf and saw the Christmass ranges to the westward. I hoped to come to a large creek but have not yet succeeded; we camp however on firm ground and are more comfortable than yesterday. The ground was with some exceptions not so heavy as yesterday; the water runs off very quickly, the night was without rain and I hope to have some few days of fair weather, though loose watery cumuli hung everywhere in the atmosphere. Swift caught a fine Wallob: with two lateral white stripes over the shoulder in the scrub. Wommai and Bunce who had knocked up yesterday have slightly recovered with the treatment of Quinine which I intend to continue for one or two days. – they are not able to assist us. Portulacca is very abundant and sheep goats and cattle like to feed on it but none of my companions cares for it; I fear the fine mutton will spoil them for the dried beef fare. 15th febr 3 Scrub camp About 3 pm. therm 88 f [Following table not transcribed] [Page 80] the 19th febr. We traveled the 16th – 17th & 18 almost through almost uninterrupted scrub. Our camp of the 15th was scarcely a mile from our old scrub camp on a box flat



which was at present entirely covered with water. We edged round the low boggy soaked approaches of the creek and traveled tolerably fairly on pebbly rises all covered with dense scrub. Great difficulty was experienced where small creeks joined the main creek and in those more open patches, in which the Vitex grew more abundantly with a blackbuttled gumtree. – Several times the mules waded with their loads up to their bellies into mud – The goats were knocked up several times and fetched to the camp after a few hours spell. When I came to the large box flat near the Big waterhole, it was all under water and my attempt to cross towards the creek was in vain. We had to go back and to take a very circuitous route the 16th I reconnoitred and found that we had to head an easterly creek which came from scrubby ranges, on which we had been on a reconnoitering ride with Brown & Calvert. The foot of these ranges was open covered with a fine open Myall forest, a finer one I never saw.- The Myall is very abundant all along these ridges even on the stages of the 17th and 18th we camped genrally on a small open plain in the scrub near the shallow pools of water the remains of an inundation: during the day we suffered of sandflies, during the nights of myriads of muskitoes. Yesterday the 18th after having traveled for several hours to the northward, we came out on the open basaltic ridges and we broke out into most joyful exclamations when the fine open undulating grassy silverleaved Ironbark forest was again before us. The stages were extremely fatiguing, the scrub injured our packs, our mules got tired, our sheep goats knocked up. The grass in the scrub was scanty, the animals scattered and all had great difficulty to collect them in the morning. The want of food made them feed on the road, the scattered through the scrub instead of feking, planted upset their load and tried our patience severely. the lat. of my last camp was 24º 39’ by [indecipherable] [Page 81] that of the present camp at deceptioncreek 24º 27’40”. We are now again on a well defined creek, which flows far beyond its banks and very rapidly, but its water falls very much and it has done so more than a foot since our arrival. The weather was cloudy, but with the exception of one heavy shower on the 15th we had no rain. It cleared up with new moon and the two last days were very hot.. It is much more cloudy and cool today. The last nights were clear – a cold wind in the afternoon, a convolvulus with small white blossoms, the little herbaceous hibiscus of Liverpool plains, another hibiscus with oblong seed vessels, several leguminous plants the scrub Stenochilus and several other interesting plants, as for instance a conciferis one were gathered yesterday. A fine cassia is growing near our camp, several chenopodraceous palms with red fleshy fruit are in fruit. It is delightful to bathe again in a running stream and to wash the dirt off which accumulates so rapidly but the sandflies are so numerous that they blacken almost by their numbers every part of the body which is out of the water.



Our hobbles and packs have suffered a great deal in coming through the scrub and Pery is bussy in mending them. Wommai and Bunce are improving in health, but still weak and incapable of assisting us much. the 20th-Febr. The night was clear with a few occasional loose clouds, the dew was slight, the muskitoes very numerous, which allowed us little rest. I supposed that the open ridges would continue far to the northward and I followed consequently that course. The country was undulating openly timbered with silverleaved Ironbark or timberless and most richly grassed: but the sand flies were troublesome to such a degree, that our mules became almost mad and that our travelling was more like a foxhound Ian Perry said, than like our former slow and shady progress. The spare horses and mules ran off in full [Page 82] speed whenever they got sight of a scrub or thicket and the whole line of loaden mules followed pushing carelessly through the thickest scrub. The trotting and pushing upset their loads, they became restless and we had a most difficult task to reload them – for thousands of sandflies blackened our face and hands and entered into nostrils eyes and ears, or were engulphed as we respired: their bite is so sharp and their number was so great that we were almost mad with pain. No branch, no cloth could sweep them away as the brush past over the face and crushed the tormentors a new set took their place. We were compelled to make a fire in the bush simply to reload the mule and all the mules crowded immediately round it. I hastened to water and came to the waterholes parallel to Cornel river, which is separated from them only by a league. My course was to the northward until I went down to the River NW or WNW: I dare say I came about 10 miles N by W. The river is running strong and looks very grand. We have made a great number of fires round our camp to clear it from sandflies: our horses and mules are still crowding round them particularly round the kitchen fire, which they seem allways to prefer. the 21st febr. We were encamped on a hollow parallel to the Cornel River. We followed it down until it joined not the River, but a large creek which came from the East and SEast and drained probably the open undulating Whinstone country. This creek joined Cornel River at a little peak, on which I was with Brown on a former reconnoitring ride and under at the foot of which we found a solitary constant waterhole. Though the slopes were still soft in consequence of a late flood and though a small stream was still rippling along the deep bed, the ground we succeeded in finding a sound place and crossed it. I turned to the River, and past a most intricate scrub with bottle tree and the cucumber fig (5 parietal placentis) the latter in full bearing and allmost ripe but inedible fruit. When I came to the rver, I kept along the bergue and had fine travelling. Our stage was about 12 miles N by East. [Page 83] the sandflies were bad enough, but not quite so numerous as yesterday and we were better prepared against them. Besides the mules were better and more carefully



packed and not so many accidents happened as yesterday. I am recovering from a most miserable tooth and stomach ache. We have past today the first arborescent Cassia. A fine SE wind is blowing during the afternoon. It is fine weather. 22 febr. We had a heavy shower of rain after sunset; but it cleared up during the first part of night and I made my lat. by Arcturus 24º 14’. This morning 6 horses and 1 mule were absent and compelled me to stop. I have come in, the others are still wanting, probably [indecipherable] in the thickest scrub to escape the sandflies; the cattle have also divided into 2 mobs and 18 beast are still absent. The day is cloudy windy and cool, wind from the southward. I made observations on the elevation at 1½ pm. Thermomr. 86ºf. [Following table not transcribed] 920 feet above the level of the sea. Turnbull found a great number of ripe fruits of the pink passionflower (disemma) It is good to eat and leaves a slightly acidulous agreeable taste in the mouth. The compressed seeds are pox bitten like those of several other passionflowers and of a black colour: the ripe fruit is green is a yellowish tint. The Wallobi which I mentioned some time ago was 34” inches long, the tail 16” inches [Page 84] 23d febr. the horses came all in on their own accord driven by to the fire by the sandflies. but they came so late that I could not think of moving. Towards evening the heavy clouds to the S and SE dispersed and we had a brilliant sunset. Wind still SEast, probably the trade wind, but a little to puffy. Night very bright. Hely heard flights of black swans passing over our camp; this might show the vicinity of the large ponds of the Mackenzie. This morning at daybreak the horses crowded from all sides to the fire, the cattle and goats would not stir. It is dreadful how they suffer from the sandflies. Often they would go down towards the river to drink, but covered with myriads of those little minute tormentors they would return on full speed to the fire. We travelled down the river, past about 1 mile from our camp in deep scrub channel and kept the right side of another parallel to the river. Here our mules got sight of water and 4 or 5 rushed into the boggy hole and got thoroughly bogged, Armstrong was almost drowned. We had to unload them, to get them out. In order to keep the mules during reloading we make a fire and they crowd round it. On we travelled through a scrubby country for about 9 miles keeping N and N b E course, when we came to the river again, which now made some large sweeps to the East and NEast. The banks got very scrubby several times and on of our mules tore a flour bag. A little farther on we past a boggy little channel and No 1 was bogged and now we remarked that the spade was lost, just opposite the place



[Page 85] where we had lost our large axe on my former expedition. I continued the journey until I came to an open spot with some surface water, as the banks of the river are extremely steep and formed my camp, about 5 miles NbE from our last camp after a days heavy work full of disagreeable accidents. The lat. of my last camp was 24.14 by Arcturus.- Turnbull found several interesting grasshoppers and [indecipherable], the latter peculiar to peculiar trees. 24th febr. Last night was clear and cool; the morning cloudy, the day cool with fresh southerly and SEasterly breezes. therm. at sunrise 70ºf. Our horses came gallopping to the fire. as usually and thus the sandflies prove useful. We I made the lat of our camp 24º 10’ by an observation of regulus; it was opposite or nearby lost axe camp. We traveled almost 6 hours along the river, which was joined by 3 deep scrub gullies, with casurina thickets at their heads and lined with low thick scrub. I dare say we travelled over 14 miles of ground and are opposite basalt camp. Another specimen of our scrub wallobi has been caught and several interesting grasshoppers. Brown found an interesting green metallic chrysalis. – When we came to the camp last yesterday afternoon, I told Boecking and Brown they should return to look for the spade and should they succeed in finding it, I should give them 2 pounds of flour to make a fat cake. They soon returned successfully: the fat cake was made, but both wished it equally divided amongst all, which certainly made a good impression on some of the gentlemen, who do not like Boecking for his rough and uncorteous way. It seems to me that the stomach is the gate to the favour of an Englishman. They give good dinners and wish to get them. [Page 86] We camp between the river and a large probably shallow lagoon, on which Wommai has just now shot a duck. 2 goats were lost in running into the river and crossing it. 25th – Febr. After sunset it became very cloudy and it was occasionally drizzling almost during the whole night with SSEasterly breezes. Today it was equally cloudy and equally drizzling showers with the same wind. We went to the northward and for a short time to the NW which brought us again to the river just opposite Basalt camp. Here we saw about 6 or 7 blackfellows and gins who betook themselves to their heels. I had not come so far to the northward yesterday as I expected. We came frequently on sandy scrubby ridges, with the peculiar dense underwood occasionally opening with silverleaved ironbark, the acacia of Zamia creek, jutzia? the narrowpennated cassia, this scrub surrounded small grassy plains on which several sidas, hibiscus of Livpl pl. and the new malvaceous plant was in full blossom dianthonia was a prevailing grass the bricklowscrub was open and the travelling easy. It got dense with banksia bushes near the river. the [indecipherable] tree with bright green leaf forms rather an open scrub. Sebania was abundant on all the moist parts of the scrub, particularly in the openings.



the other spec. of stenochilus abundant in the scrub. We past some magnificent lagoons, some of which appeared to be constant. On one of these lagoons I saw for the first time nymphaea which I saw formerly first on the Browns lagoons, The large blossomed abutilon was a great ornament of the dreary scrub; it grew usually in small patches. – the Vonga Vonga pigeon was heard frequently this morning in the bottletree scrub; one of the bottletrees was a very fine specimen of its kind. Turnbull found again several interesting mantysses A wallobi was skinned. [Page 87] Mr Bunce found a plant new to me which has the 2 cornered seedvessel of saxifrage but few black seeds. 26th febr. the rain set in last night and continued strong not only during the night but during the day. The place on which we camped was very scrubby and got extremely boggy, this induced me to go on and to find at least an open camping place I consequently followed the scrub creek or lagoon which is at present well supplied with yellow water and went to camp in a more open bricklow forest with plenty of grass and with a firmer ground. The rain continued during the afternoon and pools of water formed rapidly all over our camp and round our tent, which we made serviceable by putting a thick layer of the branches of bricklow and Stenochilus on the ground. The wind shifted a little more to the east and NEast and came frequently in strong puffs, but seemed to return to the old quarter 27th febr. The rain continued during the night and put our camp in the most shocking boggy condition, we have to wade through mud as soon as we leave our tent and even that contains pools of water. the ground is however sufficiently grassy and sort, not to bog as our former camps and we have the advantage of dragging our feet tolerably clear out of the dirt. I remain in the same place because it is extremely heavy for our mules to travel and I do not know wether we find such a good and open camping place as it is out of the question to get out of the scrub to Blackfellows Cooee Camp. A kangaroo came to the camp and the dogs gave it a vain chase. The sky looks a little lighter and it is almost calm; the smoke rises freely into the air and I hope the weather will change. A species of lythmin is growing along the waters edge. Bauhinia has a yellowish transparent, very brittle tasteless gund – we have now 78 sheep left, the poor things, but particularly the goats suffer much of the rainy [Page 88] weather and boggy ground. 29th febr the night was without rain with heavier more continued clouds one set passing at sunset from the westword (fleecy, the other from NEast. This morning when the cattle came in we found that our herd had an increase of a young bull calf. We strapt it on our leading mules and traveled slowly with many interruptions in consequence of the calf slipping from one side to the other, over a heavy ground and through a thick scrub.



After about 3 miles N b W course we came to Cornel River again, which is running bankhigh in consequence of the rain. We past many tracks of natives who have gone down to the Mackenzie they will probably expect us there. The day is fine; the cumuli have still loose outlines but are compacter and promise fair weather; but the ground is still extremely heavy, though we feel the blessing of a dry camp. Several new grasshoppers almost all of yellow and dotted colours are living in the high herbage, particularly on a malvaceous plant which grows abundantly along the river. A kangarooo came yesterday near our camp and our dogs gave it a vain chase. Zygoyphyllum grows abundantly: in the shade of a bauhinia tree under which we camp. I observed a lythmin on the waterhole of last camp. The small leaved sida is in seed the capsules separate containing one seed, each. the green tree with winged seed which I thought as belonging to the Sapindaceae, has one straight embryo and belongs probably to the accrinea. a real mouse was caught at our last camp. the nautis and acris are copulating. 1 March. The moonlight night was extremely beautiful and grew so cool. that the musquitoes tormented less than usually. We travelled to the northward and came constantly to the river again, which frequently compelled me to rest, the water having risen considerably during the night and having filled all the backwater holes. About 4 miles to the Northword we came to a small but at present deep and running creek from SEast which we had to follow up for 2 miles at least, when we succeeded in crossing it, [Page 89] by leading our mules through a tolerably shallow place. I kept again to the northword and having past scrubby ashaniaground ground we came out into a fine large plain several miles long and [indecipherable] broad where we crossed it. I now commence to west more, to which I was compelled besides by the dense scrub of acacia of Zamia creek pp. about 2½ miles farther I came again into open silverleaved ironbark forest, with very rotten ground, which I kept to WNW which course brought me to the river. We are not very far from Blackfellow Cooee camp if I am not mistaken. I should say, we came about 8 miles North by West, if not due North. The morning was cloudy and travelling very agreeable. The sandflies have almost disappeared, the rain having filled all the moist grounds, on which they were principally bred. On the plain and in the forest a leguminous 3 leaved plant 1½ feet high was abundant. The small red blossom is fasciculate or in shortened racemes in the axils, the 4 ridged short pod is 2 seeded, seeds [indecipherable]. Another plant shrubby but low and over the ground with yellow blossoms 5 yellow petals, more than 12 stamens, 3 loculor seed vessel, stigma 3 lobed, the loculi many sided. The seed vessel long 1-1 ½ inch with many seeds, stigma was found again in blossom: - a great number of grasshoppers, mostly yellow and dotted (acridinum) and one, very large mantis were collected. A flying squirrel (the small grey one) was killed last night by Brown. A small brown snake with a rather dark head was killed by Henri. We lost our dayly provisions bag from one of the mules and Henri and Brown are gone to find it on the condition of a general tapioca feed at our arrival on the



Mackenzie, which will probably be a day after tomorrow. The species of gravia which grows here seems rather a different species. Aesthynomine was observed in the sesbania grounds but much rarer than the latter; a grayish green chenopodraecous plant grows [Page 90] there also abundantly. We did not observe lesbaccia before arriving at the [indecipherable] I made my latitude by an observation of Prokyon ? 24º 51’, very near to our camp but on the opposite side 2nd March, Brown and Boeking returned after sunset without having found the dayly provision bag. But the consequence of loosing it did not stop there. During Browns absence nobody had taken care of the cattle which had divided into mobs and when Mr. Hely brought it in at night 4 head, amongst which the cow, were wanting. the old brute had forsaken its calf and the poor thing was starving and bellowing the whole night. When Brown came in, I made him tether the horse he rode an easily startled brute. During the night some of the cattle strayed off and Perry wished to fetch them in with the horse, but as he approached rather suddenly, it got frightened, broke the tether rope and ran away. This morning Brown went early for the mules and horses and found them all, but the 4 head of cattle were missing. He was however confident that they were ahead and I loaded consequently my mules and started leaving Mr. Turnbull behind to take care of Brown’s things. We were scarcely ½ mile from the camp, when one of our mules threw his load and when Mr. Hely came up with the cattle he stated that 2 other ones were missing, I send him back with all he had to wait for Brown – the little calf was carried on on a mule. I followed partly the river which had risen so high, that it threatened to surround if not to overflow our old camp, partly I kept a northerly course. It turns frequently to the eastword and I am almost convinced that its whole course from Basalt camp is N by E o r NW for when crossing one of the open scrubplains opposite basalt camp the range east of Blackfellow Cooee camp bore N by E. It was a very long and teadeous journey, all scrub and frequent backwaters which made me sometimes 2.3 miles out of our road. Last night was calm and most beautiful; I [Page 91] made my latitude by Arcturus 24º 47’40”, very much against my expectation, for I thought we were nearly in lat. 24.43 or 42. We travelled seven hours at the rate of 2 miles an hour, had about 4 miles round about and kept a course about N by East. The air at sunrise 65º the water of the river 78º f. the 3d March. Night most beautiful, cool, heavy dew. My latitude by Prokyon 25º 40’42” which agrees remarkably with that, I obtained here before, but a little higher up the river so say 23º41’14” a difference of scarcely half a mile. Three chenopodaceous plants are particularly abundant in the scrub and on the small plains, a low plant with tenate fleshy leaves; the calyx surrounds the one seeded capsule and becomes fleshy,



and has a fine red colour, the second with subhastate leaf (rhagodia) rather shrubby 22 ½ feet high: the calyx reflects remains heavy or slightly fleshy, the one seeded seedvessel swells into a small vesicule at the bottom of which the [indecipherable] is attached: the 3rd - a prickly rather woody plant growing in round bushes 3 feet high, particularly abundant has the axillary blossom with a calyx composed of two thick fleshy sepals and like the leaf in axil of which the blossom is and 3 transparent membranaccous sepals surrounding closely the 5 stamens and the one seeded seedvessel with 2 stigmata. These membranous sepals grow harder and expand round the inclosed seed vessel, giving it the form of a dry membranous flower of 3 setals – tubular with large yellow blossoms is very abundant on the plains and imports a fine fragrance to the air: this fragrance is the more sweet and the more noticed, as our senses are almost dormant in travelling through the dry monotonous bricklow scrub, which has however a smell of its own; noticed particularly [Page 92] when approaching it. the headwood of the bricklow is dark and has a grain like that of the Myal and is well scented though not like the violet scent of the latter. Many other acacias have this dark headwood and frequently a peculiar scent with it. Some days ago I found a santalum tree covered with its blue fruit, which resembled a species of cherry; but it is extremely rare to find any quantity of this fruit. I ate also a good number of the loranthus fruit growing on the myal and bricklow; it is of yellow colour, sweet and glutinous with very green coulryo. Brown had to go back to the camp before last, where he found the 4 head of cattle: they had crossed cosy creek with high water to get back. The natives had been to the camp and had examined every inch of it: they had also visited the place in a little creek where we led our mules through and have probably found our sugar bag and enjoyed its contents. We saw frequent work of very fresh date. When we had arrived at the camp and put down the calf from the mule, we took little notice of it and the little brute hungry and thirsty got on its legs and waddled off in the green high herbage. Towards evening the question was broached wether to kill it and when we looked for it it was gone and all our searching was in vain. The cow came late, but the calf was gone. At night however the little vagabond felt the pangs of hunger stronger and commenced to sing out which led us to his discovery; we brought him to the mother, which took little notice of him; I stop however today on the same place and they will become more known to each other. The sandflies and musquitoes are getting rare. [Page 93] We had yesterday a very tedious journey; we were only 4 to unload the mules and became very much heated. Perry went in this heated state to bathe in the cool river and took a hearty meal of tough goat afterwords; the consequence was that he got lightheaded and fevrish and that he is still very miserable. I have convinced several of my companions to follow my example and to bathe in the morning early and at night;



the fine cool running stream is very inviting and its coolness is extremely brazing and strengthening the skin: but I am of course very much against bathing in the middle of the hot day, except when I got very whet; in this case the bath seems to take away the bad influence of the whet and the coming cold. 12th March Obser. made at 1 o clock pm. Therm. 90º strong NNWest breeze [Table not transcribed] the 4th March We travelled about 4 miles NEast in order to get to a good and open camping place, there were occasional opening of the River, but the greatest part was scrubby and miserable. We camped at the junction of a flagstone creek which probably came from the ranges to the eastward. During the night at half past eleven we felt a fine strong northeasterly breeze in which I thought to recognize the well known [Page 94] night breeze of the Mackenzie. Alas it was only a solitary instance, for we have not been blessed since with it. Here also near the water Turnbull found a pretty plant very much like Abutelon but with differently formed blossoms 3 bracts 5 dioecious of the calyx, same 5 narrow yellow petals, 3 stamens with long anthers and 5 stigmata. the 5th March we travelled about 6-7 miles NW by N or NNW and arrived at the junction with the of the Cornel with the Mackenzie about noon: it was a fine and open spot – the country which we past was mostly openly timbered with box and vilex bushes and a species of acacia a good sized tree with drooping branches, the youngest of which was covered with a sweet rather pulpy juice, on which the little ants were very bussy. Perry seemed to recover fast and we were all well and hailed a fine camp with the greatest joy. A patch of scrub would have given shelter to our cattle and the open flat and hills were covered with herbage, particularly portulacca and that stiff Chenopodraceous plant, which though not good for itself is an indication of a good fattening feeding ground. Alas! how much were we deceived! I had scarcely taken my luncheon of tea and fat cake when the most violent feverheat took me: Turnbull very soon followed, Perry got much worse and I despaired almost of his life. So it went on and Brown became very ill, Bunce was lingering, Hely suffered, Wommai got an attack and after 6 days Boecking dropt down, Mann is the only one who has escaped until now and I hope he will be well, until we leave this unhealthy place. The river went down very rapidly, and as its wet bank were exposed sandflies were engendered which troubled us during the day our horses & cattle regularly to the camp, and muskitoes which did not allow us a moments rest during the night. The desease commences with a feeling of great heat, with a very quick pulse, with a dry skin and with heaviness in the head which soon turns into violent headache. It has been occasioned by eating [Page 95] to much fat and perhaps in Perrys case by bathing in the noonday sun immediately after having unloaded the mules and eating a hearty meal afterwards. All this would not have



been the case here: After Perrys attack I ordered immediately only two meals; morning and night, and a cake luncheon (a piece of cake scarcely as large as a womman’s hand) and yet it was after this alteration that we commenced to suffer. I suspected our flour, our tea, I left it off successively as the attacks came on, but it made not the slightest change. The tea no doubt excited us too much and it was adviseable to drink very little. It took soon the constant character of a dayly fever, forming its attacks in various times and with various intensities. I suffer under it during the afternoon and the feeling of heat is most intolerable during sunset. Sometimes, there is no rest during the whole night, sometimes, particularly if perspiration comes on I feel relieved and enjoy a good sleep.- I treated several of my patients with a dose of tart. emetic, and with strong opening pills (Calom & Colorynth); they felt relieved for the time but the illness came on again: my principle treatment that of diet and starvation, allowing them tapioca gruel and gelatino, particularly when I suspected our flour and tea. All have however come to see the necessity of eating as little as possible and though they do not get better they carry on tolerably and will recover as soon we are able to leave this wretched place. I made powders of 2 gr. Calom. 2 [indecipherable]. which acted well, but did not cure. Last night I took a strong dose of nitre and I ascribe the good nights’ rest and the feeling of greater strength today to this medicine. Besides the headache across the forehead entering with the orbits, the feeling of heat and that of shivering, just before the attack, the dry skin there was a thickly furred tongue, feeling of great weakness in the stomach and a urine of the colour of a guinea; pains were generally felt under the [Page 96] heart on the left side, or across the back in the region of the kidneys. I bathed morning and night even during the illness and felt allways great relief, but a short cough came on and I had to give it up but washing the head was continued with advantage. The burning heat was felt most in the ankle joints and in the thighs and arms. Quick rising produced giddiness and the attack great weakness as if all should combine to make this desaster heavier, not a breath of wind was stirring during the whole week 5-12th March and this morning we enjoyed first a strong cool wind from NNW. We are approaching the Equinox and we should have more of them. the 7th (?) at night it got very cloudy a thunderstorm veering round our camp from NE-N-NW-W and SW leaving the heaven with a slight cover of clouds which gave a little drizzling rain. I expect that the time of rain is gone. If I had kept the left side of Cornel River, we should have had no delay, as the Mackenzie is not running at all and its fine pools of water full of fish and perfectly clear. If I have still to mention the fate of our little calf: the mother seemed to take kindly to it, but there was some cause, which prevented from sucking and the poor thing died of [indecipherable]. One of our goats kidded. But the kidd after having lived 2-3 days was trambled to death by mules and cattle which like to walk in between the goats and sheep: we obtained a little milk from the mother: which only showed what excellent thing it would be to have a good supply of it.



the 20th March. The desease has attacked all with the exception of man, who was however not without some if its symptoms as headache and quick pulse. It hears it showed the charackter of fever and ague very strong, the shivering fit came on very violently and dayly at first it showed a certain character. He had no attack since several days. [Page 97] The water of the river became much lower, the banks and the ground much drier, the air became much cooler and the thermom rarely rose beyond 84 whilst it was usually 89 or 90 at our arrival, fresh cool winds set in at 4 oclock and stirred the air during the day and the morning after part of night was occasionally very cool and even chilly. All this with the prohibition of damper and fat cake contributed to improve the health of all of us, myself rallied the first Perry follows slowly, Turnbull would improve more if he bestirred himself: the strange young man seems to despair to quickly. Hely suffered still a good deal, but he improves equally. Brown is better, Wommai with great deal of humbug still ailing. Mr. Bunch has resisted the attacks of illness much better than I expected; he complained frequently of severe headache but yet he assisted in the work to be done and rallied soon again. I suppose, that the fever which I suffered 3 weeks ago, has made him less liable to another attack. Several of the patients have not at all that spirit, which carries them over distress of this kind what makes them beat up against it, as long as they are able to do it. Turnbull allmost cried on one occasion and said in the most plaintiff tone, what would my poor sisters say if they knew in what state I am “I assured him, that it was very good they did not know it” for neither he nor they would have any benefit from it. Perry is also much softer than I wished and expected. Boecking is hardy restless dogged stirring; There is none in my party equal to [indecipherable] in powers of endurance nor in willingness to endure. Mr. Mann has not been attacked but according to what I saw at Charleys Creek were he had the blight, it would be one of the most restless patients. Hely is odd in his whims and fancies, he is extremely restless and his constant arguing at the beginning of the desease, made me leave him alltogether to his own wisdom. [Page 98] Afterwards however he followed my advise and is fairly improving bettering. Lying as they are the whole day in a green shady bower, none inclined to speak, or rarely breaking the silence by some hard word on musquetoes or sandflies, fancies come in their heads and they ask some times for strange things, as perry for a pinch of snuff, though he had never taken snuff during his whole life Our goats commenced kidding during the last week and have continued. I dare say there are about 12-15 kidds and the old goats supply us with various quantities of milk which is very salutary to us. The vine which was guinea coloured has taken its natural



colour again. But in counting the goats I found that a great number of them have been lost, as well as several sheep; they have either been rushed by native dogs or by natives. The number of these small animals is too great to be coounted quickly over, and even if we could, at liberty as they are to feed about in every direction, we should have little chance to recover a small number of them . Many of them are kidding out in the bush, plant the young one and loose it frequently. I commence to believe that it would have been much better not to have any Billy goat amongst them at all, though the milk is very gratefull in our tea. The cattle have kept remarkably well and the horses and mules have come regularly to the camp every day. The weather has been very agreeable, not to hot, with frequently strong breezes from E and NEast and north. The thermometer this morning was 62º afternoon 20º f north One of the most disagreeable changes I have to mention is that of Wommai my second blackfellow. Instead of the active willing, ever stirring lad he has turned out an idle impudent vagabond, who shams illness whenever he dislikes works. The cause of this is almost solely Mr. Turnbull. He showed him so much attention, [Page 99] became so familiar with him and conversed probably so freely and frequently disparagingly with him on several of his companions, that the lad commenced to think himself a very important part of the community, refused to work except what I bade him to do and became impertinent to Mr. Bunce, Hely to Boeking and first of all to Mr. Turnbull. The latter had frequently smoked with him out of the same pipe and I blamed him for it; now he sees his mistake and is very sorry, but I have the annoyance of bringing the fellow back to his senses. – The worst is that he appears really slightly ailing ever since his greediness induced him to swallow the Zamia fruit and it is consequently very difficult to know where to be most severe with him I am however determined to put any sauciness down, and have told all the others that whenever he shows it they shall immediately come and complain. – More than two weeks have elapsed in illness and dullness and yet the time has gone without our perceiving it. the prevailing breezes render the day agreeable, the clear sky cools the atmosphere in the later part of night; but the musquitoes are still a dreadful plague and the first part of night is feared by all. A great number of shepherds companions and grallenia australis’ have collected around us and entertain us with their familiar habits. The goats with their kids remain the whole day in camp and feed during the night; but they commence to scatter alarmingly. A large Diamond snake was seen not very far from us and will no doubt try by and bye one of our kidds. A [indecipherable] was found in Bunces blanket, a gecko in my tent. I forgot to mention that a shrubby or half shrubby Rhagodia? with scarlat red fruit (like a minute Tomato) is in full bearing and that I ate quantities of it; it leaves a scraping sensation in the throat and seems to bind the bowels: the Santalum fruit is very rare.



[Page 100] Sunday the 28th March. About 5 days ago Mann fell a victim got the fever. he got very sick, took immediately an emetic, but is ailing weak knocked up since that time. There is no doubt in my mind that the bad flour was the cause, because Mann took great care not to eat much meat. I had fixed Thursday the 25 to pass the Mackenzie, made easier by the difficulties of crossing the goats at the Dawson we constructed a small bushfold made of branches, which we finished with Boeking. Wednesday evening at moonlight the horses which never had missed a day to come into the camp, did not come and as Mann was better and the greatest number had broken their hobblers, I was afraid that they had gone so far that our weak limbs would be inadequate to get them ever back again. The cattle had equally not been seen for many days. Thursday dawned and with the hope that god would not forsake me, I made my preparations for the start. When the goats came in and I was going to drive them down to the crossing place with Wommai, Boeking got a sever attack of fever, lay down and declared, that he could not assist me. Here I was then alone with Wommai who was well and with Bunce who was ailing. However one of the horses Billy Bracken had made suddenly his appearance and afforded us the means of finding the others: Brown who was scarcely able to ride went with him a short way down the river and found the whole mob; but the wretched brute had severely kicked him and made him more miserable than he was before. We commenced the crossing of the goats. I in the water Turnbull and Wommai in the fold and Bunce defending keeping them from breaking through the holes. It was a fatiguing work and after having dragged over a great number which was [Page 101] followed by a good many passing after them, we were knocked up and had to spell for about 1 hour. On we went again, Wommai assisting me in dragging the brutes into the water and at sunset the work was done I was tired to falling down, but my pulse went like a rattle and I felt extremely excited. We had caught about 8 of the largest mules and tied them up for the next morning, we had also done so with our riding horses. Many broke loose during the night; but Friday morning we succeeded in catching them again after some difficulties and began loading. Having finished one batch assisted by Wommai Bunce, and Boecking who had rallied we crossed the river, Boecking leading the animals, went to the choosen camping place and unloaded after various annoyances. Here Bunce declared that he was knocked up and could not work any more, but fortunately Wommai came, who had been after horses and thus we continued our work, tolerably expeditiously, so that the whole sick and healthy crossed about ½ past 3 in the afternoon. The sick suffered extremely on leaving their shady bower, but we had to move and the moving and shifting even for shade will do them finally good. At night when we were enjoying the moonlight and the musquitoes, Wommai called out that the whole cattle had come down the left camp and had taken quiet possession of it. and true enough a long line of white and dark forms were distinguished on their accustomed camping ground as if an angel had driven them down



from their remoter feeding places. Next morning Saturday after having milked the goats which had become a standard occupation obtaining 1-3 quarts from [Page 102] about 5-6, I set off with Wommai to fetch the cattle over: They had divided into two mobs: One had gone down the river, the other up and the latter gave us a very fatiguing search. However in the afternoon we reunited the two mobs and made them cross the river without difficulties, having succeeded with narrow means and the assistance of providence to finish a most distressingly tiring work, when one had to be afraid to drop down every moment under the increasing fatigues and weariness of the limbs. I made my lat. with Regulus 23º 93’. It is extremely hot during the greater part of the day, but refreshing breezes are blowing late in the Northword. I have stopt today because it was Sunday. I hope I shall be allowed to start tomorrow morning. the 6th April. It was not worthwile to record for every day since the last week the distressing monotony of our life. We almost all ill, the one suffering under constant attacks of fever, myself of violent pulsations in the head [indecipherable] which come on with the slightest movement. We are encamped on the high bank of the river and the going down and up alone fatigues me so much that I have to rest for a quarter of an hour before my heart beats a little more quiet; fetching a bucket a water knocks me up for a long time Good Friday was the first day of our feasting and though I was very much afraid to make any trial with any flour in the state in which we were I was so much importuned particularly by Hely, that I examined the bag which I thought best and found it according to my expectations good. Suet dumplings were made and heartily enjoyed by all in the cool of the [Page 103] evening and I was happy to find that this had proved beneficial to all though perhaps more in a satisfying a constant craving after flour, than by their influence on the body. Next morning I gave some flour for porridge, but I was sorry to see in myself and the others, that it was far from acting so well. It blew the stomach up and made us uncomfortable, though with the addition of goat milk. Easter Sunday was the great day of expectation, for a suet pudding was on attendance and every body had longed for that pudding since Christmas. Having seen how well the suet dumplings went down I had no objection to the pudding and a pudding was consequently made by Mr. Turnbull who roused all his feeble energies to do his work well and he did his work well, for we had the lightest most delicious suet pudding that ever graced a table and we enjoyed it well. No body suffered from it, though some, who could refrain from eating meat on the intervening time had slight attacks of heat and shivering. Sunday night in reflecting over our helpless miserable state and seeing the necessity getting out of this place I resolved upon the following plan. I choose 5 of my companions and take cattle and goats to a more favorable country if not to Peak Range itself; all the luggage and the



mules remain. The traveling will assist on growing strength and health to my companions, I shall return with [indecipherable]; catch and load our mules and bring them to the place where I shall have goats and cattle with Brown and Turnbull. I wished to start to day; it is too late as Wommai has just now ½ past one come in with the horses. The goats are missing and we must find them as well as the cattle which has divided into 2 mobs. [Page 104] An immense number of crows have collected round a rocky junction of the 2 creeks where they seem to watch the little fish, which try to go up and down the rapids. 2 fine fish cages have also made their appearance. The blight has made its appearance again and it seems that it is in some way connected if not caused by the flies which have become equally troublesome. The morning and forenoon are generally very pleasant, cool and with cooling breezes and pass quickly by; but the afternoons are calm, scorchingly hot and seem to pass extremely slow particularly to those poor devils who suffer [indecipherable] attacks of fever. After sunset it is again very pleasant, the nights are cool, the morning past very cold, but the muskitoes are almost during the whole night extremely troublesome. For Easter Sunday we killed the fattest sheep we ever have killed; the goats commence also to fatten. Both have been rushed a good deal by native dogs. A large Kangaroo was killed which wounded Swift severely under the shoulder. The 14th of April. According to my resolution I started Tuesday the 6th of April with Mr. Bunce Turnbull Boeking Parry and Wommai who should only assist us in find the cattle and after that he should return to the camp Mr. Mann and Hely to assist thence. We traveled on without interruption over those plains covered with the nasty prickly Chenopodaceous annul and scattered over with Box trees, which are separated by a belt of scrub from the bed of the river. The latter is furrowed by smaller or larger gullies and water course. About 3 miles to the Northword we came in sight of a range and having past several rocky gullies, one [Page 105] with a fine supply of water and several fine lagoons we past an undulating silverleaved Ironbark forest, until we came near the foot of the range which now extended, with some openings, much farther to the Westward. We had to cross here very rocky creeks and gullies and a more grassy watercourse, but soon entered again the scrub: I kept now a NW direction, but my companions getting weak, I changed to SW in order to come to water and came soon to what we afterwords made out an anabranch of the river. Wommai Here we camped at the edge of a waterhole in the bed of the creek, for we were all too weak to carry the water up the steep banks. My sick companions dropt down on the ground as soon as their saddles were taken off; and I weak as I was myself had to attend to the [indecipherable]. We had some cold boilt meat with us and I was so ravenously hungry that I at once swallowed several handfuls of the loose meat;



the others found by and by equally their appetite. Wommai and Boecking had not come in with the cattle and I despaired of seeing them that day. However after sunset they came with one part of it. The next morning Wedn. 7th April: After having found the goats after much trouble I moved on about 4 miles to find a better camp for my companions I felt that it was out of my power, to continue my journey without the slightest assistance of a blackfellow in finding the goats or of any of the party in the business of the kitchen. I resolved therefore upon returning with Wommai, the more so as the cattle which had been brought in the day before had not returned. We followed their tracks round the openly timbered foot of the rocky range into the scrub, until they joined our goats track; they had retraced their steps for about 5 miles [Page 106] and had unfortunately divided. Wommai tracked however the other mob with great sagacity and we took all together to the camp, where Mann and Hely were shifting for themselves as well as they could. During the afternoon we started again to find the missing mob; but it was too late to follow their tracks, from a fresh camp with fresh dung. Next morning the 8th April Wommai went out and soon came in with all the cattle and horses and mules. The mules were caught and tied up and had to keep a long fast for the next morning. Though we were bussily occupied, we had an almost exclusive flour diet, which seemed to increase my strength. The 9th of April none of our mules had broken its rope and we commenced to lead, as soon as Wommai had fetched in the cattle and spare horses. We went cheerfully to work and had done in about 3 hours time, having a short spell between. And 13 mules loading was a heavy work for 2 weak people. Unfortunately several of the loaded mules broke loose and just when we were going to stop and I rode out to collect the stragglers one of them came in with its load thrown. One side load sliding on the ground. Nobody had seen him go. Wommai and myself commenced immediately a search after the lost things, and succeeded in finding the lost loads and the tarpawling, but all our endeavours to find the sideload, which contained the most valuable articles of my expeditions as 5000 [indecipherable], were in vain. It was out of the question to leave them behind and the long search had shortened the day. I was miserable, never I had felt such a disappointment after such a com [Page 107] paratively great exertion. But there was no help; we had to unsaddle our 13 mules and to employ the following day in searching for the lost side load. Saturday the 10th We set out Wommai and myself extremely stiff in consequence of the preceding day’s work. I had promised Wommai his Pony if he could find the bag. After many hours crossing and recrossing the place were we supposed, it had been lost I gave up the search, but just directed my horse into the bed of the river to which it seemed most willingly to take; it went down the steep bank, stumbled, sent me over its head and with great difficulty I was only able to disentangle my feet, but even during the fall I saw the yellow bags in



the sandy bed and certainly all my anger towards my horse disappeared. I put it on the back of the horse and walked slowly back to the camp. During the afternoon Wommai brought in the mules and 10 were again tied up over night. Sunday the 11th We set again to work to load them and took better precaution not to allow any to stray away. By these means we succeeded in starting at about 11 oclock and we went on with very few accidents arriving at the camp of our companions at about ½ past 3 oclock. Here I expected to find two or 3 of them to assist me in unloading or to take the whole work from my shoulders. Boecking had just come in after having been lost for 30 hours, Perry could scarcely crawl, Brown was after goats; Bunce and Turnbull did their best to assist and we succeeded after much fatigue, to unload the mules. I was perfectly beaten, perfectly knocked up. I dropt down on my blanket without hunger without thirst. I should not be surprised if the great quantity [Page 108] of tea which I had drunk at the last camp during loading and rather a heavy cake had not only given me severe gripes, but had lessened so much my strength. But at all events we were alltogether again and that was of great consequence. The 12th April we inspected cattle and horses, which had stayed very well; but our goats were gone and it was with difficulty that Brown found one lot. The 13th the goats were gone again. We searched in every direction but were unable to find them; today we tried again but all was in vain. We succeeded however in finding the other riding horses which had been wanting for a very long time. The shortness of hands, the intricacy of the country, the impossibility of watching them during the night and last but not least my firm believe that they form a drawback to my progress and that the sheep particularly have been the cause proxima of our illness make me resolve upon abandoning them altogether – Today in riding after them we saw numerous fresh tracks of natives in a waterhole. The days have been extremely between 11-3, the nights cool, but the muskitoes wretched. Sunday the 18th April. One mob of sheep and goats are still found several times by accident and we were enabled to kill three more. This was the more acceptable, as the cattle had divided again and as 4 of the riding horses were absent and a great deal of riding did not make us find them. However friday Brown and Wommai Turnbull set out (Wommai was knocked up and has become quite lightheaded) and found the 3 horses. Wommai & myself had found the 4th previously, found the 5 absent bullocks and brought a flock of sheep into the camp, which we were however not able to keep: next morning they were gone and our little strength was entirely taken up with catching and saddling the mules. [Page 109] It was Saturday the 19th of April, when we succeeded to move on again. We are glad to have our horses and cattle together – the goats and sheep were abandoned. We traveled about WNW or NW b. W for about 10 miles through an abject scrubby country about 3 miles from the last camp – there was a plain with chains of ponds but from



there scrub without interruption, though with one or 2 chains of temporary ponds. I despaired of getting out of it before sunset and of making the river, when we came on a water course which soon brought me to fine opening with long ponds of water along the foot of low scrubby hills, covered with waterlilies (Rymphneas) and surrounded with fine grass. Here we camped. At starting I felt most miserable but I improved towards the end of the journey and so did several of my companions. The camp is delightful; few or no muskitoes and refreshing breezes, and water close by. This morning I wished to continue my journey but 2 horses and one mule are strangely absent and the cattle has as usually divided giving Brown a long and fatiguing ride. This will prevent us from starting . My companions seem to get better; Brown has commenced his duties; Turnbull is knocked up again; Bunce Boecking & Perry have assisted in loading. Hely and Mann are still thorough invalids. The cattle were found; they had split into 3 mobs and one had returned to the last camp; the greater part of the way. As we were riding down the lagoons, all adorned with the purple blossoms of Nymphaea, we saw a great number of large camps of the natives, who no doubt had feasted on the seeds, the seed vessels still remaining. A gin was in the water occupied with fishing; but a large fire burned at the water’s edge. As soon as she saw us, she raised a pitiful call and retired to her companions. The natives had formed a regular footpath along these lagoons, which were all extremely boggy and allowed our cattle only with difficulty to approach and to drink. [Page 110] Monday the 19th. Today our horses came in early and as we had watched our cattle during the night we loaded slowly and had a tolerable start. For 1-2 miles we traveled NW through scrub, which however opened and allowed us a fair progress. After 3 miles we crossed the head of the lagoon creek and rose at their left side to a fine open downs, from one of which Brown first discerned Peak Range in a distance of about 25 miles. Ropers and Scotts Peak became very eminant and so Gelberts Dome, The inferior ranges appeared as we proceeded. I dare say we traveled about 7 miles over magnificent downs, which seem to extend to the foot of the peaks, though I know that a different country is still interesting. We found fine supply of water in one of the hollows which run down and separate the different plains and I consequently went into camp to prevent the possibility of our fatiguing my companions and to be without water. The Myall is in patches on these downs and Santalum is frequent in the hollows. The Rolling weed is abundant. We saw 3 or more natives but they withdrew. Tuesday the 20th We travelled for more than 8 miles N b.W over open downs, the most beautiful country, but here a wide belt of scrub appeared, which we had to cross. I entered into it and still followed a NNW and NW direction as well as I could, until I came to a watercourse following the opposite fall. We had now traveled 5 hours with some long delays and I thought it adviseable to follow the water course in order to come to water. We traveled about 2 hours more, the banks of the watercourse became more grassy and open; a pool of water existed in one of those openings but not sufficient for our whole cattle. I went on and came on downs again and saw a larger belt of green



trees to which I crossed over a place and found ample supply of water. – Brown chased some Emus and the scrub abounded with Kangaroos. [ Page 111] In the middle of the night it got cloudy and commenced raining; this continued the 21st of April (Wednesday) and as all were very tired by the long stage of the preceeding day I determined to stop. The rain continued the whole day; but during the night it cleared it and the 22nd Apr. (Thursday) morning was most beautiful and promising. The horses and mules came in but unfortunately 3 were wanting. Brown went out again and stopt out long time without being able to find them. We had been on damper diet for some time, which made a great inroad in our good flour. I wished not to kill before arriving at Peak Range which was now like a promised land before me. However the diet not agreeing with us, the weather promising so fair, the probably necessary delay for our horses determined me to kill our cow during the afternoon. That was done; next morning the meat was cut up and alas! Rain commenced again and lasted the whole morning 23rd April Thursday Friday and almost the whole night; we do not yet know wether we shall be able to save it, for the sky is still cloudy today Saturday the 24th and threatening and the wind is still from easterly quarters. The first quarter of the moon is just past and it is possible that the rain will cease as it approaches full moon. My horses give me quite as much concern for they have not yet been found. It is very strange how misfortunes pursues me in this expedition; we are all still very weak and Bunce was knocked up yesterday and the first rainy day we had Wommai is also hors de combat and the others are extremely weak, and scarcely able to do anything. We cut our bullocks formerly up in 4 hours. Yesterday we cut from morning to night and I was afraid we should not get over it in a day. – Blackfellows have been near-by Brown, but now seen and as black duck has been shot. Game is still very rare in our kitchen. The water course on which we came down took a course S b. E. and SSE and the creek on which we are encamped to the Southward and SSW and joins no doubt the Mackenzie [Page 112] Monday the 23th Mai. I cannot record all the miseries all the anxieties of the past week. By God’s Mercy we are over them in part and are out of a camp, where we had to stop from the 20th Apr. to the 2nd May. I myself got very very ill, a severe attack of fever took hold of me in consequence of eating too much of the broth of the young tainted meat and shook me most mercilessly for several days. My feet were swoln in the ankles and a dark an transparent spot formed within my left eye. Mr. Bunce Mr. Turnbull Perry Hely Mann Brown all got worse and Wommai crawled only slowly along. In such a state, how could we attend for our rambling horses and cattle, how find our last 3 horses! However one day we went out myself and Wommai; but after 7 hours riding and knocking ourselves up we had only lost our time on tracks, over which Brown had ridden; another day we were more successful and found two; but the one; a useless



brute, which we occasionally tethered at night and which had broken the tether, I gave up, as our meat got dry and as I considered our salvation to rest in morning [indecipherable] – I have to mention one of the most shocking, one of the most disgraceful proposals of my whole party, which must have been fostered and nourished in one head, who bye and bye drew the others to it by their various feelings and interests. I believe Friday the 30th of April at noon, as I was sitting in my tent, Mr. Mann came rather to solemly and told me that he wished to hear my opinion on a message which he brought from the whole party. He continued that they were all ill and that I myself had expressed myself (and so I had very foolishly) that I felt my strength going down dayly and that in consequence of that they had resolved upon returning. I was thunderstruck and did scarcely know what to say, I allmost commenced crying. As far as the fine fat mutton had lasted these gentlemen [Page 113] had taken it very easy and had come on smoothly and nicely and now, when the hard dried beef fare commenced they thought fit to retire; though I frequently had told them that all our illness looked originally in the fat mutton and in our [indecipherable] onions eating. They blamed me that I had taken too little medicine, no salts and yet had I taken at least 8 times as much as on my last expedition with the exception of salt. I was not content with Manns arguments and went to the party and examined them separately. There I heard that Bunce had no idea of returning if I would only increase the dayly quantity of flour, and this was supported by several, so that the real returning scheme and the want of medicine seemed to me to lye most with Hely and Mann I of course granted the flour and in a short time the whole party declared themselves most happy to proceed. Thursday the cattle were wanting, or we wished to start on Friday: Wommai went after them and did not return before Friday night when he stated; that he had to fetch them back far from a watercourse to the Eastword over an extensive plain. Camden had fortunately caught him a Wallobi and a Kangaroo, of which he brought ½ the said home. Saturday evening at last our mules were brought in and tied up for an early start Sunday morning ( the 2nd May). Sunday morning everything was ready, but 3 horses were missing. Wommai went after them but did not return before 12 oclock; we loaded however our mules, ate our damper and were just starting, our mules moving in a long line along a well beaten footpath, when Mann under a sudden violent attack of fever declared, he could not ride. In my perplexity I left Brown with him, the only one able to guide him and continued the journey. We went about 10 miles up the creek NNE little out of the direction of the peaks, on which the trees were distinguished by my companions [Page 114] the sun was setting and we had not yet come to water; it appeared our bullocks had traveled before us in search of it, Wommai was after them and I fired several times to



apprize him of our following him. At last I saw a flock of Kockal[indecipherable] returning from the plain to their roosting place, I followed them, heard soon where they were at home and came to the creek with a fine waterhole. This morning Brown and Mann came in. They had followed us about 2 hours afterwords, but had overshot our tracks in the dark and had camped at a little waterhole full of little small fishes about 1 mile higher up the creek Wommai is not yet arrived; but the cattle has crossed the creek about half a mile higher up, without following it for water. Thus we travel, slowly, in fits and starts, miserably with constant accidents and losses – but God will help me through all this, for he has been always ready to my prayer, and has been merciful in the case of need. The weather has been very fine since the first quarter, occasionally cloudy regularly cumuli during the day and refreshing breezes from various quarters particularly from the East, the nights very cold occasionally, which frees us from the muskitoes. – the country most beautiful, well grassed and well watered 4th Mai Tuesday. After Wommai came in early in the morning right hungry and tired, having left the cattle about 4 miles this side of our killing camp. The cattle had been far to the Northward, much farther than we were and he had driven it back not knowing of our advance in the same direction, After some difficulties two missing horses were found and as we had tied up all the mules the day before, we loaded and started about 11 oclock. I sent Hely and Brown back glad to have Wommai with me to attend to horses and mules [Page 115] We traveled almost 6 hours to the N and NNW, at first following the creek up afterwords passing some scrub, and a plain where we met again the cattle track. The cattle had gone down to a large creek (Ema Creek) to which Wommai wished me to go too However my gaol were peaks and I took the shortest road, passed some scrub came into hilly forestland, crossed small ridges and ranges and having passed Westhill dropt into Newmans Creek where I camped at my old camping place, though Phillips had forgotten to make my mark. The peach stones have not grown or were destroyed by bush fires. The day was remarkably hot, the evening and morning most beautiful. According to the wishes of the party 4lb of flour are served out and about 4-5 lb of meat. Frequently however more flour is used. The flour gets worse and worse and it is quite as well to use it. Boecking and Mann suffer still of fever. Mann and Perrys ankles knees and even feet are dropsically swoln. The 5th Mai Wednesday. There were again 2 horses missing, which Wommai brought to the camp at about 2 oclock. We loaded and started for the Peak Downs. In keeping along the creek and afterwords a little more to the left NNW, we avoided all scrub and uneven country and reached the Tableland in scarcely 2 hours and with ease. I wished to make Crinum camp but I did not hit the place and we went down one of the creeks and found a fine waterhole, very isolated and well adapted to keep our cattle together.



The lower Range to the right of the peaks (looking at them from the Westword) is beautifully seen along the plain which seems to come down from them. The Range and particularly the [indecipherable] mountains bear almost due North. The lower part of the peaks is covered with forestland and bears NNW half N. The looking for water had made it very late when we arrived and as we had traveled 2 days following, weak as we were, we were all extremely tired. Here we had to wait for Hely and Brown whom I had sent for the cattle. The 6th Mai A day of rest and illness past , when about 4 oclock Camden? came in the camp and made us hope that the cattle were on his heels. 2 hours afterwords however Hely and Brown came in stating that Brown had lost his [Page 116] horse the very night they had left us, that Brown had been unable to find it with [indecipherable] They had not seen the cattle which had gone far beyond the killing camp and they had thought more prudent to follow us and to get fresh horses. I was very little satisfied with their doings, but as it was done there was no help and I sent them consequently the 7th Mai with fresh horses and with Wommai after the cattle and the horse. I myself started on a reconnoiter to the westword. After having past open downs I came to a Yarra creek in which I found fine reedy and rocky waterholes; I traveled about 6 miles farther past many creeks and undulating country open and scrubby and came at last to another Yarra creek in which Kakatoes as usually called me to two fine deep waterholes. Now I returned and allowed unfortunately the mule its own way, though comparing the compass occasionally. He appeared to go so straight, that I got more careless. He brought me however at last on our track, on which the mules had returned and thinking that it might be an independent track, on which Wommai had driven them to the camp, I followed the direction, which brought , which brought me from the camp. The sun set, it got dark, I recognized my mistake and rode back; but during the night I lost the creek, came into a different country and had at last to turn into a scrub and to camp. My fire kept me well warm, but a diarrhea of long standing allowed me little rest, tired and stiff as I was. fortunately I had taken 3 pieces of dried meat which kept me from hunger. Next morning 8th Mai I made a long sweep over the hills after having found some water and learnt by the peaks where I was. After that I rode to the Ranges in sight of which we camped. I had come far to the South and East, past many fine creeks well supplied with water and came at last into the country we had traveled over, past the plain opposite the ridges, met our track and was soon in the camp, where my great appetite I am afraid [Page 117] made me eat rather too much damper. I was very tired, the diarrhoea continued frightfully the whole night, incontinence of [indecipherable] made me wretched. swoln dropsical feet which made the walking very heavy, all this put me in one of those rare states of misery in which man involuntarily begins to think wether annihilation destruction and death is not better than such a life. I did however not begin to think so,



for the hope in the assistance of our merciful father boys me up and keeps me from despair. Today the 9th Mai my disease still continues, though I hope it will go off, as I have taken some remedies. Our mules and horses keep excellently round the waterhole, to which they are compelled to return and this of great advantage as both blackfellows are out of the camp. It is much cooler here, than we have felt before, cool breezes blow during the day and during part of the night, which is very cold (to our feeling); but that regular strong breeze which I felt here during the summer is wanting at present. 11th Mai 10 a.m. therm 80. I made an observation on the elevation of Peak Downs which gave the following results [Following table not transcribed] My diarrhea continued to a frightful extent during yesterday and the preceeding night. I resolved to give up the favourite drop doboys and the damper and to live exclusively on Tapioca and a pigeon which Mr. Mann by chance should shoot [Page 118] and he managed always generally to procure for me. One of these birds, at least for morning and evening. Several times he gave the men a bird. The great share of damper in this tedious manner of living where little more but sleeping is done, does not agree with Wommai and Perry Bunce and Turnbull have suffered severely of cramp in the stomach and in the intestines; Of course none of them would ask for less flour. The soup which is thickened with lumpy flour is abundant as I do not eat any and the other 3 people are absent. Those in the camp have consequently a greater share and several of them know no measure; they got violent diarrhea and as they continue their manner eating it hangs long and heavy on them. Turnbull however gave it up immediately as I spoke against it, but Bunce answered he suffered least, when his stomach was full; I left him of course to his fate; because I never press medicine or advice on any of them. The days are most beautiful the breezes continue almost the whole day and are very refreshing. The 13th Mai Yesterday the thermom was 42º at sunrise 75 at noon 84º in the afternoon the day before 86º in the afternoon which is the hottest part of the day, as it is generally calm. Easterly strong breezes before and towards noon very cold. The night appears extremely cold to us and I wear constantly my cotton, my flannel shirt and my coat and as I am sorely plagued with diarrhea, which compels me to get up frequently during the night, I sleep regularly in my clothing. Mr. Mann is gone to collect Greivia Berries; they are unfortunately not so frequent, as I wished. My latt. 22º 55’ 27 by an observation of Regulus last night. Mann & Boeking ill again the 14th Mai therm. at sunrise 44º, an hour afterwords 60º, misty, calm. – when I arrived at Peak Downs to our present camp, I promised to my party, that I would give a sugar Pudding if the cattle and every thing arrived safely. When however Hely and Brown



came without cattle; when they told me a horse was lost, when we lost more than a week already feeding up on our provisions, I told Mann he should tell them, that we should have no pudding particularly as the killing of the bullock is so near, and as two of our festivals, Whitsunday [Page 119] and Queens birthday are close at hand. Mann told me this morning, that they expressed themselves as terribly disappointed, and this intelligence annoyed me a good deal, as it shows that the spirit of the party is not as it should be; for every one should immediately feel the force of my argument and the nonsense of celebrating losses. However their minds are at present so little occupied, that a communication like mine occupies them almost exclusively and forms the object of long discussions We had no fat and they deliberated longtime, how the pudding with flour and sugar alone was to be managed; at last however they decided upon rolling the doe out very fine spreading the sugar over it and rolling it together again, as what is commonly called Roly Poly pudding is made. They find themselves suddenly disappointed – and what a disappointment !! Bunce Turnbull myself suffer a good deal of diarrhoea; the end of my rectum seemed inflamed and I secreted a good deal of slime; I have taken this morning an opiate enema. thermom. 74º after sunset. Plenty muskitoes, which disappear about 10 oclock or a little earlier. 15th therm. before sunrise 46º the whole night less cold. Great difference however between the plain and the slight timbered rise on which we are encamped. No or very little dew. therm. 84º at ¼ p. 2 oclock - 76º Sunset Yesterday afternoon I rode with Boecking, who was again taken ill, to the waterholes in the near creek to the westword. – As all the forest about us is covered full of Partridge pigeons, some of the stony hills were full of bronzewings, which as usually were very shy. We fixed on the spot where I am going to kill another bullock. when the bullocks arrived and rode higher up the creek, when several large polls of temporary water existed, which were drying up fast. the lower waterholes are reedy and appear constant. In passing a high plain between the creek one enjoys a fine view of the Range. I should have met those various waterholes on my first expedition, if I had not been too exclusively beat to the NW, which carried me rather to the N and NE. then to the Westword. 16 Mai therm at sunrise 46º. Last evening cloudy banks to the West and SEast – Misty clouds this morning Cold East wind. At noon 80º at sunset 78º 17 Mai. thermom. at sunrise 54º the night warm, in the middle of the night however a very cold NEast wind, towords sunrise moist SEastely air. In the morning cold NEast again, the mist rose and capped the hills, loose clouds from NEast. It is now the 11th day that Hely Brown and Wommai went after the cattle and I am wretchedly anxious about them as well, and even more about the cattle upon which



[Page 120] the whole expedition depends. None of the 3 was very strong and if any thing should have happened there is none in the party who could go after them and reliefe them in their distress. They would be lost people. It is possible that the cattle have wandered very far and divided into mobs which would increase their labour. Unfortunately their provisions are very short and if the 2 dogs procure no game I am at loss to know what they are going to do. I hope only that at least a messenger will return. that I know what steps I have to take. Our meat provisions are gone and we have to live again on our flour at the rate of 6lb a day. Boecking and Mann have still occasional attacks of the fever, Bunce complains of chilliness, Turnbull and myself suffer of Diarrhoea and so does Bunce and Perry had an attack of fever yesterday. What a dreadful visitation and when will it end. 22th Mai. My anxiety was relieved on Monday the 17th when Hely Brown and Wommai returned with 9 head of cattle. They had suffered a good deal of shortness of provisions and were extremely exhausted. They gave a very bad account of the state in which the cattle were. It had divided into 4 perhaps more mobs, of which they had seen 3 – one so wild that they were not able to keep them. Fortunately they had succeeded in shooting getting an extremely fat Emu and a Kangaroo with some pigeons, which had enabled them to stay out so long. There is no doubt that blackfellows had frightened the cattle and had been the cause of their separation. I examined Brown were he found the cattle and he said it was near Honey camp of our former Expedition. I wished to be as near to their probable stay as possible and intended to go down to Cowkilling camp with the whole train. Brown went out Tuesday morning the 18th to fetch the mules, but not accustomed to their run he remained out so long that I was afraid of loosing a day. I resolved consequently upon killing here immediately and did so in the afternoon. Wednesday the 19th cut our meat up and Brown and Hely started late on their new attempt to find the other cattle. Wommai had been out the whole forenoon after their horses but had become tired, lay down and slept probably the greater part of the time. I was [Page 121] inclined to believe that it was with the intention of giving Brown another spell day and that both had planned such a delay. They were however mistaken; for Turnbull got the horses and Brown had to go. The cutting up of the meat was extremely slovenly and by far the greatest part fell to my share. Hely and Brown were waiting for their horses and as a fatiguing ride was before them, I could not ask them to assist us. Boecking was making blood puddings and was constantly occupied in the kitchen with frying fat and preparing meals, Wommai was out for the horses, Mann was putting to giving out the provisions for the 2 horsemen; there remained consequently Perry, Turnbull and myself. Perry assisted manfully, Turnbull got every now and then an ailing, stitch in the side and pain in the back which compelled him to go into the kitchen, to make the fat damper and to see how the black pudding was going on. Mr. Bunce put the meat but on lines



and poles and though weak and sick he did his best. Afterwords Mann joined, but he had a heavy headache. which prevented him from working as he would have done. Not with standing all this however, we got over the cutting up late in the afternoon. The weather had been extremely favourable, but suddenly thunder was heard and heavy clouds past over which sent a few drops down. At night we had a regular set in rain and I was afraid that we should have the same fate as at the killing of the cow. We covered however most of the meat and the rain of the night did us little harm. the 20th the 21th an 22th were fine drying days, not to hot, with constant breezes. At the night of the 18th the cattle was not brought early enough to the camping ground which was the reason, that they bolted during Mr. Turnbulls watch. Wommai fetched them back 20th and stated that they had been going towards honey camp. Next morning the 21st Wommai got so sick after eating soup that he was ill for the whole day and could not attend to the cattle, after which he is gone today again. – The general health of the party has perhaps improved; I suffer of muscular pain in consequence of the exertions of the Killing days, but I am well and strong on my feet. Boecking is well, Turnbull is much better; but Perry suffers much of diarrohea [Page 122] The climate is most delightfull and one asks involuntarily how is it possible, that anybody could be ill here. But the simple reason is that these people after a long attack of fever make not the slightest exertions after hearty meals, for a good appetite they have all, but lay down on their backs for the whole day if nothing particular is to be done or if they walk about, it is just from their couch to the fireplace, loitringly without energy, as if all their joins were untied and their limbs dangling about them. Wommai brought the cattle back in the afternoon of the 22nd. He was prepared to stop out; but I had prudently communicated to him that we should have a fine suet pudding on Whit Sunday, which quickened consequently his tracking powers. Towards evening it became cloudy and for fear that rain might set in we had been busy in collecting our meat on tarpawlings and assorting it according to its dryness and in cutting it up in small pieces, which not only assists in the perfect drying but in the close packing in bags. The wind blew strong from the Southword and East and the sky was uniformly cloudy. At about half past 8 it began to rain not heavy but continuing until 10 oclock, with some few slight showers until about 12 oclock. When my watch was far over I went to the camp to call Perry to his watch He was slow in getting up and as he was riding towards the cattle he had to follow a call of nature suffering at the time very much of diarrhoea; the consequence was that the cattle walked [indecipherable]. Perry tried to find them and rode in different directions, until he got confused and lost; He rode about several hours, until he gave prudently the bridle to his horse; which brought him home sure enough. – It was strange that Perry was equally lost at the eve of Christmass and of Witsunday (two Pudding Days). Whitsunday morning, the 29th Wommai got sick after eating salt meat of our salted round; for Boecking had made an experiment of corning a round of beef, but he had made it too salt. Wommai could consequently not go after



the bullocks. In the afternoon we had our suet pudding of 5 pounds of flour, which was most [Page 123] excellent. I could however not help comparing the spirit of my former party and this at almost the same place. When I told Mann that 4 pounds would be sufficient he reminded me that I had ordered 6 pounds at the Mackenzie for the 9 persons, which would correspond to about 5 pounds for 7. – Gilbert and Calvert requested me on the contrary on their own account to reduce the allowance of 3 pounds of flour to 1 ½ pound in order to make it last as long as possible – Monday the 24th at Queens birthday Wommai went after the cattle found them and brought them back to about 3 miles; here a Kangaroo started, which the dogs pursued it ran through the cattle, and the cattle got frightened and bolted; his horse was too jaded to head them – to celebrate this day so dear to every Englishman, we had a Pudding, on which the sugar was rolled up in the paste and I gave a treat with a bumper of tea. Long live the Queen of England and may Australia and her people everywhere prosper under her reign, may the successful termination of our journey add new and fertile countries, ready for colonization to her vast dominions and may it help to increase the glory of her reign. – all drank most heartily to this toast. – To day the 25th Wommai is out again for the cattle; our horses and mules have not been at the waterhole for the last two days and have probably found another waterhole. I have plaited two fine very strong lether ropes 25’ long which no horse can break: These we wanted very much, as our other lether ropes have been broken in many pieces. Perry is bussy in making greenhide hobbles. Boecking is gathering Greivia fruit. Wommai brought home the pods of the Mackenzie bean, but the seeds fuller smaller rather oblong and belong perhaps to a different species. Wommai gave an unsuccessful chase to two Emus yesterday Whitsunday morning and last night a whole flock past in sight over the opposite ridge. The weather is now most beautifull, the East wind however very strong and cold. the night very cold; the thermom. this morning before sunrise was 33. We shall soon see ice on the water. [Page 124] The meat is allmost all dry, the great quantity of fat has delayed it so long. As soon as we get our mules I shall start down to the place which I [indecipherable] to Brown between Killing camp and the next to the Peak which is nearest to the place where they will likely meet with the cattle. the18th June Constant occupation and riding after cattle and horses have prevented me from noting dayly the occurrences. I shall now give a general recapitulation of the continuation of my disasters. After 8 days absence Hely and Brown returned on foot with their guns over their shoulders and very much exhausted: they crawled into the camp. They had been a very short distance, having become ill and camping out instead of returning home at once to avoid as Mr. Hely said the suspicion of returning for the



Pudding of Whitsunday. Where they were camping at the lagoon whereto I had promised to go all our mules came travelling down and they thought at first when hearing the bell that the party had arrived and had gone to another waterhole. However not finding us they headed the mules and drove them back to about 3 miles from our camp. Here they were again careless with their horses which broke loose and left them to solitude and to their feet. I now determined to set out myself and to try whether I could get the cattle back. Wommai returned the same day without the 8 bullocks, no doubt because he had hunted for game instead of looking out for the former; the wretch had been absent 4 days. The next day after the arrival of Mr. H. and B I went with Wommai after the mules and found them in a fine country about 7-8 miles from the camp. We returned very late and Camden caught an Emu as we were traveling along. The next day we returned down to the Mackenzie in a short cut which Brown had discovered and which lies through a perfectly open country. It is about NNW towards the peaks. We camped on the same creek which [Page 125] changes constantly its character, now having fine waterholes, now a simple shallow with a few White gumtrees. The next day 31st May we arrived at the camp at which we had killed our cow only camping at the more northern end of the waterhole. The 1st June I set out for the cattle accompanied by Wommai. We rode over all the country, through which the track of our former Expedition lay and visited Spirit camp, with still all the forked sticks of our tents existed. In continuing from Spirit camp to the Mackenzie on our former line we met a number of the natives on spirit creek, with whom we had a short parley. They were at first extremely shy, but soon commenced to admire everything belonging to us. Here we found a great quantity of the native melon, which we prepared by roasting on the coals: they were an agreeable and wholesome fried, but their skins made our lips very sore. At another locality we gathered a great quantity of Greivia berries, which were most excellent to our palate. Having arrived at the Mackenzie we traveled up until we came to the sick camp of the Mackenzie, supposing to find the cattle in its neighbourhood: but no cattle was there. We now returned to the camp and passing one of the little plains about 14 miles from the Junction camp we past the tracks of 4 head of cattle which we followed up, until we found them in the bed of the river. We drove them to the next of our camping places, favourable for keeping them being surrounded by water; but the brutes were so cold that they rushed through the water and escaped. Next morning we followed them to about 5 miles. We drove them to our camp. I [indecipherable] determined to make a sweeping ride to the NEast and to see wether any tracks existed; I resolved upon continuing our Expedition, should I be successful enough to get 10-18; Should I get only 9-12 I intended to go to the Burdekin [indecipherable] Mackenzie and [indecipherable] and determine



[Page 126] their geographical position; should I have only those 4 bullocks, I wished still to go down the Mackenzie and to find a good road to the Boyne. Alas! all my plans were annihilated by the arrival in the camp, where all my companions were sick and having fever and ague. I saw no other means but to give up all plans and to return to the downs. But next day our cattle was gone, our mules and horses were gone, and nobody had looked after them. I fetched the cattle after a tedious ride over the large plain to the Eastward about 6 miles distant. On the 9th (the next day) I went with Wommai for the horses, which I hoped to find at the next camp. Alas – I was again mistaken. After 2 ½ days tedious tracking ride over open country and most miserable scrub we found 6 mules and 1 horse; we took them down to the junction camp to which another lot of mules had gone. Here we camped, but next morning I sent Wommai for the missing lot, whilst I held the 7. He returned at sunset with the intelligence that they had crossed the river and had returned on our track. I immediately followed them and rode 2 days through the scrubs without getting up to them the [indecipherable] remaining equally old. 2 of the lot had lost themselves and returned almost 20 miles to the other side of the Mackenzie. I had been absent 7 days from the camp and had only provisions for one. Wommai shot fortunately a bustard and Wallobi and 2 ducks and the dogs caught too old men Kangaroos and drove a Wallobi into a hollow log. out of which we cut it with our tomahawk. The clouds gathered besides over our head and I was afraid that rain would set in. I consequently returned next day about 40 miles down to junction camp and camped at a place where we had planted an old man kangaroo 2 ½ days before. It was perfectly sweet and we feasted on it, but were both severely purged. The next day we returned to the Mackenzie to look for the 7 mules [Page 127] which we had left. After a whole days riding without success finding a single track we were just going to camp, when fresh tracks appeared. We camped with the intention of following them the next morning and made our supper of a kangaroo tail with greater satisfaction. During the night however we were most agreeably awakened by the sound of the bell and we could easily distinguish what direction the mules took. We soon found them next morning and though I had intended to hunt for the 2 mules on the other side of the Mackenzie I am so much afraid of loosing the 7 that I gave it up and returned with them 40 miles to the camp. In passing along a small plain about 10 miles from the junction on our way home we saw a mob of cattle and Wommai who rode after them, as they set off in full gallop, observed that it was our whole herd with the exception of those we have left in the camp. About 5 miles from the camp after having found 3 more horses we saw a fire and heard cooees. When we rode up we found Mr. Hely Turnbull and Brown encamped, but having started the day before to look for us, to whom they supposed some accident had happened. Hely and Brown had the fever and this prevented them to go on. They told us, that the 4 head of cattle had bolted the very morning of our leaving, but that Mr. Mann had seen them 2 days afterwards that



they had been brought back to the camp and that one had been shot and its meat dried. I half feared it would be so. My companions in the camp were improving in health and the meat had dried well; Several horses and mules had come to the camp and the whole number of our remaining stock were 9 mules and 10 horses. – The 18th June was a day of rest and we had a pudding in honour of the battle of Waterloo. The 19th I went with Wommai and fetched the much hobbled horses and mules whilst Perry was making hobble straps. All [Page 128] were hobbled with the exception of one. The next day (20th Jne) our loads were arranged, the tea, the salt and the shot were left behind with 3 packsaddles. It was constantly fine weather, the nights very cold and ice even on the pools near the fire The idea of returning home has a decidedly favourable influence on the health of my companions. – the whirlwinds in the plain, [indecipherable] play with the rollers and dry grasses 21st of June we started from Cowkilling camp and went to the lagoons fine weather mild SE wind mild night 22nd from the lagoons to the Mackenzie fine weather cold night 23d Spelling, looking out for 2 mules fine weather, cold clear night 24th Travel to Blackfellow cooee camp, clouds gather heavy rain at night 25 travel to opposite Dive camp, clears up in the afternoon fine but dewy night – Mann asked for sugar which I [indecipherable]denied 26 travel to Basalt camp. fine day, very clear cold night 27 travel [indecipherable] New Year! camp very long heavy stage through the low casurina thickets; camp at fine open lagoons. Many flocks of ducks pass at night. Hely fever, Boecking still diarrhoea 4th July Sunday. In the interval from the 28th to yesterday we traveled along the Cornel River, which was now again dry with its sandy bed but with occasional pools of water the water still filtering through the sand. – We passed Sandflea Downs where the sandflies had disappeared. We saw here a great number of gins, who were as usually very much frightened and beckoned Wommai and Turnbull away when the latter two wished to approach. Supposing that the Box tree flat between Sandflee Downs and Expedition Scrub would be equally dry as the backwater of the Cornel I tried to cross over to the Big waterhole. But the creek was here still running and the ground so boggy that I had [Page 129] to keep much more to the eastword. I believe that the running creek was the [indecipherable] creek and that it would be equally running in the scrub. I kept therefore to the Southword and occasionally to the Eastword and past two Dry [indecipherable]creeks where I never dreamt to be the large scrub creeks. After having



past most infernal scrub we were compelled to camp within it near a round waterhole, of which some parts of the scrub abounded. the next morning two horses could not be found, but Brown had seen a little creek with more open scrub and not ½ mile off our camp and I consequently l moved my camp to it, sending the blackfellows out for the two horses and tying up all the rest over night – they found them and next morning we started early to the SW and W. Allways hoping to meet the large running scrub creek. After several hours traveling Brown told me that a big hill was before us and shortly afterwords I found myself at the foot of Christmas range in open country. We turned immediately to the Eastword to make blackfellow creek; but had to pass a very high ridge from which Brown recognized the scrub plains at Blackfellow camp. He guided us very accurately to the place, we passed the creek and having come to the open country of our former camp, we camped at the creek intervening between Browns Lagoons and Blackfellow creek. Next morning (the 3d July) we went E by S and ESE, past another creek and came at last to Browns creek, easily recognized by the open country, by the fine gumtrees, the reeds in the sandy bed and high stiff grass on its banks. Instead of following this creek as I first intended I crossed it and went to the Eastword through a tolerably open scrub. Brown who had dropt behind came up and told me that we should go [indecipherable] and so we [indecipherable] [Page 130] the scrub was swampy but little plain scrub and [indecipherable] scrub frequent. At last we reached a large plain which I shall call Perrys plain after my companion, the saddles from which we had a most magnificent view of Expedition Range and from which we recognized the two remarkable hills between which we had camped in coming over the Range. We came I shall call the long stretched hill Mr Mann and the Peak Bunces Peak – a white peak to the right Turnbulls peak and a ridge still farther to the Western Wommais ridge. We came to the creek and camped very late in the day in a tolerably open country. This morning Wommais horse was so lame that I determined to stop here and to give him time to recover, as I should have stopt a day at the foot of the Range – It is Sunday, we had [indecipherable] tea and Wommai shot a Wallobi. Boecking and Mr. Bunce found a great number of Cucumbers ([indecipherable] melons). All the time it was extremely cold and ice on our pots of water but not on the waterholes. I lost yesterday my little Terrier bitch which must have gone in hollow log after a Wallobi unable to get out of it. Mann, Turnbull and Boeking have the fever. This will get better when the fat cake is done which will soon be the case. 28th July After a long interval of traveling I shall resume our general progress and those events which happened during the time. The 5th July we travelled to the foot of the Exped Range the 6th we crossed the Range and camped at Erythrina camp, the 7th we passed through a great deal of scrub and camped on some of the lagoons South North of Aldis’s Peak. I wished to cross over to the Upper part of Zamia Creek between Mt. Aldis and Mt. Nicholson but fearing I might be checked by Bottletree scrub I thought it



more prudent to go round Mt. Aldis. Brown kept however too much to the windings of the creek and made the stage long than was necessary. – The 8th [Page 131] we came as far as white Kangaroo camp where we had a rainy night. the 9th we left Zamia Creek and came to the head of Ruined Castle Creek, where our dogs drove a Kangaroo into a waterhole; we got it out, Wommai wading into the water and hooking it out. the 10th we followed Ruined Castle Creek down, Brown recognized the rocky slope, down which I entered Ruined Castle creek from Rocky Seat Camp, we past this camp and made Ant camp, where we camped. The 11th We past the Robinson Rge and keeping a SEasterly and SS Easterly course we came to [indecipherable] camp; the 12th we past over through the rocky country of the Robinson, the 13th to near Murphy’s Lake the 14th to the Lawson. We found Hodgson’s horse at the upper part of Erythrina creek. the 15 – 16th – 17the 18the we traveled up the Dawson, the next day I turned to the Southward to make the Dawson again, which I did at 3 [indecipherable] camp. The 18th our dogs killed a large kangaroo, but one of them (Swift) died in consequence of the wounds he received. The 19th we traveled to Dogwood creek; but Mr. Perry was lost and compelled us to stop the 20th I returned for him with Wommai and found him coming along our tracks. the 21st we kept a little too much to the Eastward and came to the heads of Charleys creek the 22th we followed down the creek, found Gogs track, crossed the creek along old crossing place and came to the Condamine. During the night we heard the barking of dogs, which apprized us of the neighbourhood of a station. Next morning 2 horses were wanting (probably in consequence of an understanding between Wommai and Turnbull). Turnbull went without my permission across the river in the direction, in which he had heard the dogs and came to Mr. Blithe and Chevals camp. These gentlemen very kindly provided us with flour meat [Page 132] and sugar; in which the party indulged so freely that several became ill. We stopt the 23rd. The 24th we came to Campbells and stopt there: the 25th we arrived at the woolshed where we stopt the 26th. The 27th we traveled to Rosses, the 28th to Russel [indecipherable] 29th to Russels where I intended to leave my things. During the whole return, Mr. Mann and Turnbull separated from the party and Hely found them generally mixing with the other very much against their will, for he did not assist in either collecting wood or fetching water. It was sometimes amusing to hear him bounce the others. Mann came even and asked for separate meat asserting that he lost too much as the meat being par boiled and he eating no soup. When I told him that I should weigh out at once a weeks allowance he was highly offended, told me that if I had lost confidence in his weighing out his meat, I might quite as well weigh out the whole meat, which I of course accepted immediately, because I was not satisfied, finding that the meat bags were short 3 pounds almost every week. These young men



seemed determined to take no further notice of me and I consequently did not trouble them suffering severely of rheumatism besides this annoyance. All my speaking at the commencement of the journey, in my letters to Bunce their promises to stick to me were forgotten and as we approached the end of our journey they got more impudent and wished to show that they were independent. Thus Turnbull left my camp to ride over to Bl[indecipherable] station without asking my leave, which he never would have got, as I was desirous of getting on, fearing that my companions might injure their health by eating too much before I had done with their services, for I was pretty sure that it would happen earlier or later. [Page 133] When I came to the woolshed, I learnt what Mitchell had done, that he had discovered fine available country to the West of Moreton Bay and that the squatters were desirous of getting to it. Feeling my health improving a little I resolved to go to Fitzroy Downs and to examine the country intervening between my track and Mitchells. This I shall do, the downspeople may come with me or not; but several gallant men have promised to accompany me. Observation made the 3d Novbr 1847 – 4.26 pm. Attached Therm. 70º detached - 71º On the waters edge the water boiled by A 213.60 difference and correction 1.60 -1.70 13.213.10 “ “1.10 Observation made on the 3d Novbr. 1847 2. p.m. at St Leonhards [indecipherable] [Following tables and explanations not transcribed] [Page 134] [Crossed out calculations – not transcribed] To be exact, it would be necessary to have the correction at the waters edge for the same temperature on which the observation on the elevation is made. Mr. 305 – 335 [Page 135] Calendar with days crossed out [Page 136] Table of Barometer and Elevation [Page 137] Table of Multipliers to correct the approximate height for the temperature of the air.



[Page 138] Explanation of Calculations [Transcribed by Robin Matthews and Margaret Broadfoot for the State Library of New South Wales]

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