Harpers Wine & Spirit - April 2015 - Germany a fresh perspective

GERMANYA FRESH PERSPECTIVEAPRIL 2015

2 | Germany Supplement Harpers.co.uk

MODERN FACERiesling and Pinot Noir at the forefront of the German renaissance

REVIVALISTS Germany’s champions explain their passion for the wines

VERSATILITYAndrew Catchpole explores Riesling’s fabulous af�nity for food

SPÄTBURGUNDERAnne Krebiehl MW celebrates a rising star in Pinot Noir

G MAJORInnovation and dynamism at the annual Wines of Germany UK tasting

31 DAYS OF RIESLINGAn invitation to showcase Germany’s great white grape

TOP 50A taste of the best from the best of the tasters

GERMAN WINE REGIONSMapping the myriad vineyards of this diverse country

COMMENT & CONTENTS

A Wines of Germany Supplement to Harpers Wine & Spirit Trades Review by William Reed Business Media.

SUPPLEMENT EDITORAndrew Catchpole

HARPERS EDITORRichard Siddle

ART EDITORChristine Freeman

CONTRIBUTING EDITORAnne Krebiehl MW

SUB EDITOREmily Kearns

ADVERTISING, SALES & MARKETINGBusiness Development Associate Sara Hauffé-Brett

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR DRINKS GROUPAndrew Reed

GROUP MANAGING DIRECTORCharles Reed

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TALKING ’BOUT EVOLUTION

German wines are subtle in the sense that the country’s producers don’t really do blockbusters. They don’t have to. The country is blessed with two of the world’s most evocative

grape varieties as its lead players, namely Riesling and Pinot Noir. Both are at their most entrancing when handled with a light touch, expressing a rare blend of attractive drinking and complexity, combining elegance and depth, with a natural affinity for food and clearly expressive of their terroir.

The rest of the cast weighs in with some pretty talented characters too, with Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Silvaner and Gewürztraminer among the highlights. Each has its own distinct identity, but typically shares a common thread of fresh, aromatic, elegant purity borne of grapes grown towards the cooler northern viticultural limits. Again these are also versatile food-pairing styles.

This much is common knowledge, at least among those versed in Germany’s wines. But what is less widely appreciated is how the German wine scene has evolved in recent years, with producers presenting a more dynamic, modern and cool image to the world, reflected in myriad aspects from contemporary labelling and drier wine styles (especially Riesling), to greater communication of Germany’s own gastronomic credentials and the related role of wine,

plus how this translates to other global cuisines. Along with a younger generation of outward-

looking winemakers, global warming has played its part too, allowing both those drier Rieslings and Germany’s rising star Pinot Noir to express themselves more generously across diverse vintages, but to do so without losing their integrity.

The upshot can be seen – or rather tasted – in the fantastic selection of Top 50 wines on these pages, wines that represent the whole panoply of German winemaking, from the traditional to the modern, representing a superb snapshot of all that is going on.

It’s an evolution that you can taste for yourself at the G Major Wines of Germany annual tasting on April 30 in London, where the quality, innovation, dynamism and versatility of the country’s wines will be represented. And, as this supplement explores, this new face of Germany is already beginning to cause a stir among the opinion formers of the UK trade.

Andrew Catchpole Supplement editor

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CONTENTS

EYEBROW

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THE MODERN FACE OF GERMANY

Riesling and Pinot Noir are leading the charge as Germany carves out a quality niche in the UK. Andrew Catchpole reports


INTRODUCTION

At Vinoteca Clerkenwell German Riesling is being dispensed on tap to wine-savvy diners and in Shoreditch hipsters can be found sipping delicately on Pinot Noir at Sager + Wilde. Gordon Ramsay’s restau-rants are pouring Grosses Gewächs quality

level German whites and reds by the glass, as are the classy folk at the Wolseley and J Sheekey, while guests at hot Thai noshery Smoking Goat in Soho have been quaffing down Riesling by the bucketload. Clearly something is afoot in the more happening corners of the capital.

Further afield, tell-tale green-framed shades and accom-panying Riesling tattoos have been spotted at foodie markets and festivals from Brighton to St Andrews, as German wine goes on tour, with the likes of BBC Food & Drink’s wine guru Joe Wadsack often found fronting the show. Meanwhile, quality merchants such as Loki in Birmingham report that thirsty young enthusiasts have been lining up for Enomatic-dispensed shots of Riesling, with sales on a high as people discover the mix of quality, enjoyability and value delivered in the wines.

Could Riesling and the broader swathe of German styles be in the throes of a renaissance? Certainly acceptance and knowledge is growing. And if there is a passionate person behind a list, one that can handsell and knows and under-stands Germany’s wines, then the wines can and do sell. Moreover, often as not the converts that these wines are winning are drawn from a more youthful generation of enthusiasts that love the idea of discovering something new and individual.

“We’ve been going a bit mad with Riesling recently,” says Phil Innes, owner of independent merchant Loki Wines in Birmingham. “One of the things that helped us was being involved in the 31 Days of Riesling promotion, and I also went out to Germany last year – we sold more German wines in those 31 days than we did in the whole of the previous year.”

“We are lucky, we have a very young client base and they don’t have the same preconceptions, or misconceptions, as the older generation,” continues Innes. “These customers don’t necessarily understand what German Riesling is all about, but dry New World styles have helped to build their confidence and the key is tasting, so we almost always have German Riesling in the Enomatic machine and once they become familiar with dry styles then they really get into it and explore.”

It’s not just the customer base that has been changing, though. German wine has been evolving too, both in terms of the styles of (especially) Riesling, with a focus on dryness for today’s drinkers, but also the labelling and naming of the wines, providing an easier “in” for the uninitiated. Global warming has played its part as well with Germany’s vineyards producing riper grapes, making for more rounded,

easier-drinking wines and ones that still retain their balance when vinified dry.

Passionate German wine advocate and ex-sommelier James Comyn at Howard Ripley Wines describes a “mini-revolution” over the past few years – one which has seen a big shift in the style, quality and presentation of German wines available in the UK.

“Things have changed and changed quite rapidly, with a huge expansion in dry Riesling and also a huge jump in quality of these dry Rieslings from the producers,” says Comyn. “Ten years ago dry wines were often a bit of an afterthought for producers used to focusing on sweeter styles, but factors like climate change, meaning better ripeness, plus a younger generation in the wineries with a drier palate themselves, have seen a real jump in the quality of the dry wines.”

Comyn points out that this jump has been across the board, from entry-level trocken wines to top-end Grosses Gewächs wines, changing perception at all levels. Howard Ripley’s trade sales to restaurants have in a couple of years shifted from 80% Burgundy and 20% Germany to around half and half, with Spätburgunder also on a roll. Many of these sales are accounted for by high-end or hip restaurants pouring Riesling and Spätburgunder by the glass.

Spätburgunder is clearly a wine to watch, not least because the prices of red Burgundy have been marching ever skywards. As Anne Krebiehl MW points out elsewhere on these pages, German Pinot Noir (as it is now increasingly labelled) provides an Old World-style counterpoint, but often at a very attractive price. Claudia Pech at German Wine Agencies picks up on the theme.

“We are seeing increasing demand through all channels, but a significant increase from fine-dining establishments and fashionable London bars and eateries, plus independent merchants,” says Pech. “And it seems as if German Pinot Noir is on everyone’s lips, from London to Edinburgh and beyond, and it’s looking like Germany’s new star.”

Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world and, as Pech points out, Pinotphiles will seek the variety out regardless of origin if the quality is there in the glass. Set against that her assertion doesn’t sound quite so bold.

What Germany needs, though, if it is to seriously grow beyond being a niche love affair for those budding aficionados who are “in the know”, is an image upon which to build wider sales of its wines. European neighbours France, Italy and Spain all have a clear gastronomic and vine-strewn identity

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that resonates with wine drinkers. Then there are the cities, Paris, Milan, Rome and Barcelona, which are well visited and culturally understood. Plus a wealth of restaurants in the UK plying versions of the national cuisines.

A blank canvas may mean that the wines are approached with no past baggage, but it doesn’t necessarily help to promote them either.

Germany, of course, has Berlin, a cool, lively, architecturally diverse city, with a fantastic nightlife and food and drink scene. The wine regions are also as evocative as anything you’ll find elsewhere, from the stunning slopes of the Mosel to the picture-postcard pretty villages nestling in the undula-tions of the Pfalz and Rheinhessen. The winery architecture, too, along with the restaurant scene is another big draw.

Speak to younger (non-German) northern Europeans and it’s pretty clear that Germany and its capital are an influ-ential draw when it comes to setting trends. The catch is

that few Brits have any idea of the speed of life on Germany’s cutting-edge cultural scene. This innovative vein, though, is also influencing the ways in which the wines are presented and sold.

A Bauer Riesling carried by Red Squirrel Wine (see Sex, Drugs & Rock & Roll, just Riesling label, left) is one of many examples of how winemakers are injecting a modern, some-times humorous and certainly more eye-catching and accessible feel to their wines.

“The traditionalist in me says that a wine shouldn’t be judged by its label, but Bauer is an old family estate that had traditional labels and wasn’t selling much wine, so they slapped a new label on – which really draws people over at tastings – and they are now selling a lot without changing the wine,” says Nick Darlington at Red Squirrel Wine.

Darlington is one of several UK suppliers who talks about a split in Germany’s producers between an old guard and a new generation. The former continue to sell often high-end traditional and traditionally presented wines, while the latter, comprising younger producers in regions like the Pfalz, are making modern, drier styles, exploiting a gap in the mid-market and funking up the presentation to draw customers in.

Benjamin Donnadieu at The Winery, a London-based German specialist owned by record producer David Motion, agrees, also adding that Germany is ahead of its major European competitors on other levels too.

“Germany is coming across as a younger, more dynamic producing nation than other European nations, with producers taking risks with minimalist and catchy labels, and these same people are doing a very good job in terms of marketing their wines, through events in London and other cities,” he says.

“And Germany is becoming more popular for its organic and biodynamic culture of wines, which is very strong, so whereas a country like Italy can sell on romance, Germany is really beginning to sell on understanding of the quality and style of its wines.”

There are, of course, many varieties besides Riesling and Pinot Noir coming out of Germany, including Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder), Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) and Silvaner, to name but a few. All have their place on wine lists, with many food-friendly styles, but it is the twin peaks of Riesling and Pinot Noir upon which the reputation of Germany’s quality wines is primarily growing. And it would seem that the cutting edge of the UK’s restaurant scene has been quick to get in on the ground floor.

INITIATIVES FOR 2015Wines of Germany’s 2015 marketing campaign is focused on increasing listings and visibility for German wines, with many opportunities for consumers to taste up and down the country.

These include several trade and consumer activities, such as the Give it a Whirl… consumer tour, plus the Top 50 competition and the new-format G Major trade tasting on 30 April.

Joining these will be the return of the popular and hugely successful 31 Days of Riesling promotion with restaurants and merchants in July, plus a Get it On… competition to engage with UK buyers looking to extend their German portfolio.

STATISTICALLY SPEAKING

£3.01–£4 -37%£4.01–£5 -3%£5.01–£6 +55%£6.01–£7 -5%£7.01–£8 +90%£8.01–£9 +17%£9.01–£10 +138%£10.01 and up +14%

German wines have increased sales in the UK across all price bands above £7, with rises of +90% at £7 to £8, +17% at £8 to £9, +138% at £9 to £10 and +14% above £10, showing that consumers are buying more and better quality German wines.

Trade-based examples of this renewed interest include a remarkable 100% growth in German wine sales at Marks & Spencer, driven by labels over £8, plus a doubling of the German listings at Oddbins, which has identi�ed Germany as an exciting new growth area.

Feedback from numerous customer sampling activities at food and drink festivals over the past two years shows that a younger generation of consumers are open to experimenting with Germany’s wine styles and are attracted to the niche, premium image of varieties such as Riesling and Pinot Noir.

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GERMAN WINE PER £ PRICE BAND IN THE UK(Nielsen data, MAT to w/e October 11, 2014)


INTERVIEW & OPINION

“ For my menus I need wines that deliver elegance, finesse and lightness so that food remains in the foreground.

THE BERLIN WUNDERKIND

When it comes to pairing “dirty, dodgy and wild” food, German wines are more than up to the task, as Anne Krebiehl MW discovers

Billy Wagner, sommelier and restaurateur, just opened a new restaurant in Berlin. He is one of Germany’s most successful wine pros and previously worked at the famous Weinbar Rutz, also in Berlin, where

he curated an all-German wine list. His new venture, focusing on local produce and eclectic wines, is called Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Noble because of the “uncompromising quality” of “brutally local” produce, which nonetheless eschews tradi-tional luxury items like foie gras or lobster. Hart & Schmutzig (which translates as “hard and dirty”) because “a [ful]filling evening, either solo or with friends, often brings with it an element of the dirty, dodgy and wild”.

Embedded in an international list, he showcases German wines – Weissburgunder from Baden, Pinot-based Sekt from Rheinhessen, Silvaner from Franken and Riesling in every imaginable shade, even one made in amphora. Here, the irreverent vinous wunderkind Wagner talks about his favourite subject: German wine.

You have many German Rieslings on your list – why?Riesling is totally consumer-friendly. To wine newbies it offers charming fruit, something animating, that great aromatic interplay of fruit and acidity. To wine pros it offers edginess and character. And if you take a closer look, Riesling really works with any fine cooking in the world, whether it’s Spanish, Italian, Nordic or Asian. Riesling’s fruit, juiciness, acidity and freshness goes extremely well with such cuisines. Riesling often has this ability to go charmingly along with, rather than above, food. This is why it is so successful in top gastronomy.

The food at Nobelhart & Schmutzig is all about curing, pickling, preserving and salting. How does Riesling work in this context?Any dish that shines with acidity, herbal savouriness or even sweet elements works extremely well with Riesling because the variety has so many aspects. It also counters fat, works at lower alcohol levels and in the end it always has something enlivening that doesn’t saturate or pall. Riesling comes in so many facets. For my menus I need

wines that deliver elegance, finesse and lightness so that food remains in the foreground. I need wines that are neither subordinate nor dominating where food is concerned. Riesling does that.

Which hot new trends do you see emerging in Germany?Winemaker Tom Lubbe of Matassa [Roussillon] once told me “In German wines there is too much Geisenheim” [Germany’s foremost viticultural college]. What he wanted to say was that German winemakers often just used to stick to the rulebook. Perhaps we Germans do have a tendency to think too much, to keep a tab on everything, to leave nothing to chance. But today, there are more and more people who don’t just decide everything in their head but go with their gut feeling. This new winemaking generation is incredibly curious and has an appetite for risk. More and more do their own thing, they experiment, they have courage, they express themselves: they have vision. These youngsters really change things, they are totally enthusiastic. That’s a great step because their wines are authentic and great. These are no longer just textbook wines.

What other German varieties apart from Riesling excite you right now?I think Silvaner is exciting, and Scheurebe – in the right soils it can make extremely great, intriguing wines, but so can Silvaner. There is such a buoyant Silvaner scene in Franken and Rheinhessen with interesting dry Silvaners, sometimes with, sometimes without botrytis – these are rich wines, they are powerful and masculine and make a wonderful counterpart to Riesling.

IN THEIR OPINION…


Germany’s food-friendly wines – Riesling in particular – are understandably at the forefront of the country’s cutting-edge gastronomic scene, which rivals any in the world. With this in mind, Anne Krebiehl MW and Andrew Catchpole turn to champions in their respective homelands to contrast and compare approaches and insights from leading sommeliers, supporters and suppliers of the best of German wines

RIESLING REVIVALISTS & CHAMPIONS

Mark Flounders, manager, wholesale and Charlotte Street branch, Vagabond Wines“I recently did a vintage in Germany, at a small production winery in the Saar, and it was a pretty cool experience. Producers are approaching it in different ways, a classical way, or a modern way, with people differentiating themselves from the crowd. Quality is always key, but beyond this many producers are pushing the boundaries of how their labels and bottles look, doing interesting things with the ways in which they produce wines, being modern and upbeat, adding a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc to the portfolio, for example, so that they can offer an importer a spread of styles.

“Riesling is such a versatile variety stylistically, so it can appeal to numerous palate types. It fits the bill for someone after a crisp, dry and fruity style of wine, especially the drier trocken styles, but the deeper, richer, even more aromatic Spätlese wines can offer a fuller but still balanced palate. We have about six Rieslings on the Enomatics, allowing us to have many styles on tasting, and for people that don’t know quite what they want this pretty much covers it all.”

Jan Konetzki, head sommelier, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay“I tend to think of German Riesling as being in three categories: dry with no detectable residual sugar, so trocken and some Kabinetts; plus more off-dry styles including Spätlese; and then the sweet end from Auslese up to Trocken- beerenauslese.

“For me Riesling is king for food and wine pairing, with sweet and savoury matches, such as Auslese with foie gras, usually being very successful. And dry and off-dry Rieslings tend to be very food-friendly. With no oak, low alcohol,

good acidity, minerality and plenty of citrus and stone fruit, they let the food be itself while providing a good foil for the flavours.

“With modern cuisine at the moment we are seeing a lot of combinations of cooked and uncooked, differently textured foods, quite complex dishes. You may see raw and cooked vegetables and fruits, reductions, vinegars and pickles, and Rieslings can work very well with these contrasts, having a lot to offer, complementing and being a good fit, but also with the benefit of simply being a rather nice drink at the table.

“With Riesling, people either really love it or can’t get their head around it. It’s not so much a Marmite wine, more like a fabric – you either do or don’t like cashmere, it is more a texture, but there is no right or wrong. Some become converts and some say ‘this smell is not for me’.”

Martin Lam, wine and restaurant consultant “With the huge variety of foods available in London at the moment and Germany’s Rieslings and Pinot Noirs being eminently matchable with so many different sorts of cuisine, there are so many oppor-tunities for these wines on lists and this is something that I hope to communicate during my talk at the G Major Wines of Germany trade tasting in April.

“Riesling may always remain niche, but the niche will enlarge. What could be cooler than drinking the most sophisticated wine that there is? Once you’ve got Riesling, it’s not something you lose.”

James Comyn, trade sales director, Howard Ripley Wines “It’s a very interesting time for German wines. I’m an ex-sommelier myself, and while German wine has always been a sommelier’s favourite, they have typically tended to buy lots of it but not sell it and then drink it themselves. But this has changed and changed quite rapidly. In the past few years, we’ve seen a huge expansion in dry Riesling sales with drinkers in their 20s and 30s, people who have generally never come across German wines before, so they don’t associate them with the sweeter, older styles.

“There has been a big push from the sommeliers them-selves, too, and it feels like the tide has really turned for German wines, including Spätburgunder. We are getting to the level where we really shouldn’t see a Michelin star or good restaurant without German Riesling or Pinot Noir on the list and this will continue to filter down.”


RIESLING

DRINKING VERSATILITY

German Riesling combines sublime drinkability with superb food-pairing possibilities. Just keep it simple, says Andrew Catchpole Over a bottle of rather sublime German

Riesling, Jancis Robinson MW once suggested to me: “I think the word you are looking for is ‘yum!’” I’d been offering up descriptors, all of which seemed rather prosaic in the face of the wine,

and this piece of “keep it simple” advice has proved useful to this day. Pop a Riesling in front of a non-initiate and invite them to indulge in the liquid in the glass and I’ve yet to meet one who doesn’t like what’s in front of them. Don’t overcomplicate it, keep it dry(ish) and more than likely a convert will be won.

This same wisdom seems to play out in the on-trade where relatively few customers take the plunge of their own accord and dive on in. But given a steer, perhaps by a passionate sommelier or as part of a wine and food-pairing menu, the reassurance tends to work wonders and people like what they find. In fact, for many, especially younger diners, German Riesling provides precisely the kind of individual “revelation” that adds a sense of adventure and personal discovery to their drinking repertoire.

“My clients are mostly younger people and I find that they are very willing to try German Rieslings. While the idea is still relatively new to a lot of people, interest is rising and those that have tried the wines come back and ask for more,” says Ram Chhetri, head sommelier at Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen. “I try to avoid words like terroir, but explain that as a variety it’s about the purity of what is in the glass, and that it is a grape that you can drink so easily, while also being very good value for the quality.

“For me the most important thing is to show your own confidence in the styles of wine, to offer dry styles first by the glass and build up confidence,” he continues. “It offers a good talking point and, once you have shown people what they can expect, you can then later offer the wines by the bottle and perhaps also begin to explore off-dry styles.”

Admittedly, the same could be said of any less familiar grape variety, wine style or region, but from a sommelier or restaurateur’s perspective a major additional benefit of encouraging Riesling knowledge is the broad food flexibility inherent in so many of the wines. Put relatively simply, Riesling typically combines the acidity and balance of citrus and stone fruit character, along with no oak and lowish alcohol, yet with a persistence of character and length that makes for a great complementary foil to many elements in many dishes. For the same reasons, it is also a sublimely drinkable variety on its own.

“It depends so much on the style, you have sweeter styles which work with a lot of Asian food, or drier styles that work beautifully with fish and seafood, or more aged wines that can pair with more complex dishes,” says Laura Rhys MS, head sommelier at La Trompette. “And the key for me with Riesling is that it can have richness, but still with great acidity, which makes it so good to either drink as an aperitif, or match with food.”

“ “I think the word you are looking for is ‘yum!’” Jancis Robinson MW


Like Chhetri, Rhys cites the drier, young styles as being particularly good as an introduction for people, and finds that her customers are very open once the food pairing possi-bilities are explained: “If people are looking for something dry and crisp and refreshing, then these styles of Riesling can really fit the bill and allow great flexibility with the food that they are eating.”

Chhetri further elaborates on the pairing possibilities, suggesting that the regular citing of Riesling as “good to pair with Asian food” is at once too broad and too simplistic. Once customers are drawn in, through the drier wines, it then becomes essential to communicate the possibilities that the various styles offer, but without bamboozling guests who may then take fright and retreat to a safe haven of familiarity.

“Riesling doesn’t overpower food, so the dry and delicate wines work amazingly well with the delicate raw fish of sushi, or add a crispness to fresh seafood like scallops or grilled sole,” he says. “But then if you look to richer meats, like pork, duck or goose, the traditional pairing of a little more sweetness combined with high acidity will cut through the richness, while again creamier and spicier foods, including many curries, work with more off-dry styles.”

Seasonality can be brought into the equation too. Sommelier and consultant Jade Koch suggests that the sheer drinkability, the lightness and elegance of Riesling, means that it can be

a great addition by the glass through spring and summer.“There are amazing dry and aromatic German Rieslings

and if you have a selection of wines by the glass there is no excuse for not listing one at this time of year,” she says. “It can also be worth suggesting pairing a German Riesling with really quite simple food, like a good roast chicken, or even pork belly, which gives you the freedom to show off the wine with a really good pairing that would sing but not overcom-plicate it.

“Listing wines by levels of dryness and sweetness – and pointing out that you have done this – can be very helpful for people so that they know what they are getting and this takes away the worry, for some, that they may end up with a sweet wine,” adds Koch.

“And with regard to the sweeter styles, it’s also worth highlighting that a lot of sweetness is used in people’s culinary repertoire, a dollop of redcurrant or apple sauce, for example, so there is no reason to be worried about some sweetness in wines – wine for me should be like a garnish, so it’s worth explaining that the wine should do the same job as a sauce, and its worth talking to people and explaining this.”

The words “by the glass” crop up time and time again, and for good reason. As Koch points out, entry to higher quality German Riesling begins at a relatively high price for most wine consumers and, with a few notable exceptions such as Waitrose, is anyway a rare find on the supermarket shelves where most do their wine shopping. The value for money, though, can indisputably be outstanding for those prepared to trade up, but the challenge comes in providing that first, relatively affordable and risk-free step.

This is where restaurants, from good food-led pubs to those in the Michelin-starred firmament can really stand out by stepping up to the mark with tasters and encouragement offered by the glass. Then it’s about letting the “yum” factor do its work – what Restaurant Gordon Ramsay’s head sommelier Jan Konetzki describes as “the sometimes overlooked simplicity of enjoyment”. With regard to German Riesling he adds: “Wine education is important, but enjoyment education is most important.” And enjoyment is what quality German Rieslings of any hue offer to the initiated in spades.

“ There are amazing dry and aromatic German Rieslings and if you have a selection of wines by the glass there is no excuse for not listing one at this time of year”Jade Koch


SPÄTBURGUNDER

PINNING DOWN PINOT NOIRSpätburgunder – Germany’s Pinot Noir – proves almost impossible to define. Anne Krebiehl casts a MW’s eye on the climate, soils and winemaking styles that deliver such diversity

Spätburgunder has a long tradition in German vineyards. Some think it was planted as early as 884 by a great-grandson of Charlemagne, but Spätburgunder plantings by Cistercian monks in the early Middle Ages are docu-mented. Spätburgunder is part of the wine

fabric in its traditional strongholds of Baden, the Ahr valley and small pockets of Rheingau and Franken. But today Spätburgunder grows in every one of Germany’s 13 wine regions.

Today there are 11,775ha of Spätburgunder, which makes Germany the world’s third-largest grower of Pinot Noir, after France and the US respectively. Baden alone has more Pinot Noir – 5,591ha – than either Australia or New Zealand*.

Moreover, Spätburgunder covers three degrees of latitude: from northerly Sachsen at 51 degrees to a southerly 48 degrees in Baden. For reference, Beaune in Burgundy is at 47 degrees. Within these latitudes there are countless aspects, altitudes and inclines.

This explains the climatic element of the diversity and is also the reason for Germany’s Pinot success: Spätburgunder loves a warm spot in otherwise cooler surroundings. Many vineyards in Germany’s marginal climate are thus predestined for the slow, steady ripening of Spätburgunder, helped along by global warming.

Klaus Peter Keller, famous for his G-Max Riesling, also makes silky Pinot Noir in Rheinhessen and says of one of his top vineyards: “Frauenberg is a windy site. Thirty years ago Pinot Noir would not have ripened here. We are clear beneficiaries of climate change. Sometimes we can leave these Pinot Noir grapes on the vine until the end of October.”

The second element of diversity is soil: German Spätburgunder grows on the volcanic basalt of the extinct Kaiserstuhl and in the deep loess of its lee sides; there is also volcanic ash. You can almost taste the heat of these

black, sun-warmed stones while wines from loess are rich and rounded.

Then there are numerous sandstone sites, especially in Franken, which make for very delicate Pinots. Sandstone crops up again along the river Rhine, thrown up in a patchwork of soils during the Upper Rhine Rift alongside shell limestone, rhyolite, granite and gneiss.

There are large limestone areas in Pfalz and Rheinhessen along with stretches of loam and clay. There are Keuper – or heavier marl – sites in Württemberg with more sandstone formations. In the Rheingau, Spätburgunder grows on mica-schist and quartzite, in the Mosel and the Ahr valley it often grows on blue slate and the wines almost taste smoky.

All of this is just a small geological sketch but it explains why there are endless expressions of Spätburgunder.

If climate and soil were not enough, there are all the man-made variables of clonal selection, viticulture and winemaking. Germany has made huge strides in clonal research and it is surprising that its loose-clustered, small-berried quality clones are not more well-known and planted internationally.

Traditionally, Spätburgunder was made in large, used oak barrels and some winemakers still make simpler, fruit-driven styles that way. Smaller barrels like pièce and barrique are very common, but increasingly so are a mix of sizes to emphasise fruit and soil above oak, which now often comes from local German forests.

What does this tell us? There’s only one thing for it: taste and make up your own mind. The only thing all German Spätburgunders have in common is their Old World style. Germany simply adds intriguing, arresting and unique facets to the dazzling and delicious world of Pinot Noir.

Zum wohl!

*New Zealand had 5,569ha in 2014, Australia had just below 5,000ha in 2012 (latest reliable �gures).


WINES OF GERMANY UK TRADE TASTING

A MODERN GERMANY

The core theme at this year’s exciting new-format G Ma : or UK Trade Tasting will be to show off Germany’s quality, innovation, dynamism and versatility in a fun and exciting way

As such, G Major is all about presenting the modern face of German wines to the UK wine trade, and this year’s event is packed with a host of features and events that promise to make this the most exciting German tasting yet. There will

be much to whet the appetites of independent merchants, sommeliers, restaurateurs and suppliers alike.

With a selection of the most ambitious and creative young winemakers all present under one roof, there will be myriad styles of German wines to taste, as well as a host of seminars led by top wine experts including Anne Krebiehl MW, David Motion, Martin Lam and Martin Darting.

Showcasing over 200 wines from the movers and shakers in German winemaking today, G Major will be a tasting with a twist and one not to be missed.


WINES OF GERMANY UK TRADE TASTING

WINES OF GERMANY UK TRADE TASTING: SEMINARS & TASTINGS

Wine-chef Martin Lam will be on hand for two insightful sessions exploring the pairing possibilities presented by Germany’s incredibly food-friendly varieties, delivering some inspirational and surprising insights.12.30pm–1.15pm – session 1 1.45pm–2.30pm – session 2

Anne Krebiehl MW will be leading a seminar on Germany’s rising star, Pinot Noir, exploring how and why the quality of these superb wines is about to become much more widely known. 2.45pm–3.15pm

Wine and sensory expert Martin Darting will be delivering a fascinating hands-on “art class”, exploring how we engage the senses with a quite refreshing approach to wine tasting. 3.30pm–4pm

Pop impresario and Riesling lover David Motion will be looking at dry Riesling, guiding tasters through everything from the old school to the new wave.4.15pm–4.45pm

Sommeliers can test their knowledge and tasting skills in a blind tasting competition.Throughout the day

Many of the UK’s best German wines will be available to taste on the Top 50 focus table.

G MA : ORWHEN Thursday April 30, 2015WHERE OXO 2, Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, South Bank, London SE1 9PH Enter via riverside stairsTIME 12 noon–6pmRSVP Email [email protected] or call 020 7759 7400For more information please visit: winesofgermany.co.uk

Throughout the day Places will be strictly limited for the seminars, so to ensure your place please book now by emailing: [email protected]


31 DAYS OF GERMAN RIESLING


15,000Samples served over 31 days

348,000Consumers reached through traditional media channels

50,000Consumers reached through social media channels

2%Volume increase of German Riesling

32%Sales increase of German wines in £8–£9 category

101Trade outlets joining the campaign

25Cities and towns reached

Tom Davidson of Amathus strips for a full Riesling

immersion

Luvian Team Riesling larging it up with Germany’s favourite grape

31 Days mural at Vagabond Wines – winner 2014 Best Retailer



What is it?A month-long, summer promotion organised by Wines of Germany, working with independent merchants, retailers, restaurants and wine bars around the UK to showcase German Riesling.

The promotion will run from July 1–31.

Why?To raise awareness of the great taste, versatility, incredible food-matching ability and different styles of German Riesling.

What’s in it for participating restaurants and retailers?• £1,000 towards new German wine listings for the

best retailer and for the best restaurant.• £500 towards new German listings for the

runner-up best retailer and for the runner-up best restaurant.

• Sales uplift, creativity of displays and promotions, use of social media, and the number and quality of customer feedback cards received from retailers will all be taken into account when judging the promotions.

Who won last year?• Winning retailer: Vagabond Wines • Runner-up retailer: Ake & Humphris• Best restaurant: The Harrow at Little Bedwyn • Runner-up restaurant: Bread St Kitchen

What Wines of Germany will doWe will supply a range of branded PoS materials to all participants, such as:• Chalkboards• Bunting• Pens• Corkscrews • Badges• Window stickers• Temporary tattoos • Coasters• Aprons• Customer feedback cards• Leaflets about German wine

The Wines of Germany website will host a dedicated microsite for the promotion, with details and links to participating retailers and restaurants.

Social media will play a huge role, with a dedicated hashtag for 31 Days of German Riesling on Twitter (#31days) and regular posts on the Wines of Germany Facebook page.

We will be running a social media competition for consumers to submit their #Rieslingmoment via Twitter and Facebook, with the winning entry at the end of the campaign winning a weekend trip to Germany.

How do you get involved?For further details, please contact the Wines of Germany team via email at [email protected] or call us on 020 7759 7405.

31 DAYS OF GERMAN RIESLING: JULY 2015

AWARENESS15,000 consumers sampled, 50,000 reached through social media, 348,000 reached through traditional media

INCREASE IN SALES£6+ increased sales by 32% and the fastest growing category was £8–£9

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


WINES OF GERMANY TOP 50 REVEALED

The owners of some of the UK’s top taste buds gathered together to judge the Top 50 Wines of Germany. Here’s what they discovered

Riesling Revivalists Anne Krebiehl MW and Matt Walls were joined by Alex Hunt MW of Berkmann Wine Cellars and Roger Jones from the Harrow at Little Bedwyn.

Nicky Forrest from Wines of Germany said: “Whilst the majority of the wines

selected are currently available in the UK, some of them are actively seeking distribution and the idea behind the Top 50 is to raise the profile of all the wines and to help new wines find a way into the market.”

Jones said: “It was interesting to see such a variance of styles, especially with Riesling, and it was also good to see some texture and depth to these wines with lovely layers of concentrated fruit and nice minerality, perfect for the style of food so popular in the UK currently.”

Walls said: “Unsurprisingly Riesling stole the show, but what impressed me was the range of styles and expressions that can successfully be achieved with this agile variety.”

Hunt commented: “I was intrigued that, whatever philo-sophical objections we might have had to some of the wines below £8, the overall technical standard was arguably higher than in the £8–£15 flight, which was much more varied in style and quality. The best of this flight of course out-performed the entry-level wines, but it did help to underline the value to be found sub-£8 in Germany – something that is not always recognised perhaps. Pinot Noir is an area of growing interest within German wine, and there were some good examples. With the Riesling, very few wines were too dry or too sweet and, whatever their level of residual sugar happened to be, found a natural balance.”

The wines will all be launched and available to taste at the Wines of Germany trade tasting, G Major, on April 30 at OXO 2. To book your place visit winesofgermany.co.uk/gmajor

“ I was impressed with the more modern styles of winemaking”Roger Jones

THE PANEL Anne Krebiehl MW is an educator, writer, expert in German wines and a passionate Riesling Revivalist.

Matt Walls, author of the book Drink Me! How to Choose, Taste and Enjoy Wine, is a contributor to several wine publications, a competition judge and is a Riesling Revivalist.

Roger Jones owns the Michelin-starred restaurant the Harrow at Little Bedwyn, is a wine writer and was shortlisted for Imbibe Restaurant Personality of the Year 2014.

Alex Hunt MW is purchasing director for Berkmann Wine Cellars, contributor to jancisrobinson.com, a member of the World of Fine Wine Tasting panel and a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


WHITE£5–£8

Kendermanns Special Edition Riesling 2014Pfalz

reh-kendermann.de

Importer: KendermannRRP: £7.49Fresh and zingy. Great value for money. Delicious.

Kendermanns Riesling 2014Mosel

reh-kendermann.de

Importer: KendermannRRP: £5.99Delicate notes of peach – a lovely introduction to Riesling.

Blue Nun Riesling 2013Rheinhessen

langguthworld.com

Importer: Bottle GreenRRP: £8.50Pretty and �oral with good texture.

Devil’s Rock Riesling 2014Pfalz

devils-rock.com

Importer: Bibendum PLB GroupRRP: £7.99Classic lime notes on the palate, good fruit concentration. A good young, fresh Riesling.

WHITE£8–£15

Braunewell Essenheim Riesling Dry ‘Kalkstein’ 2013Rheinhessen

weingut-braunewell.de

Importer: Lea & SandemanRRP: £15Lovely clarity and fruit weight with some savoury notes.

Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Nr.1 QbA 2014Pfalz

reichsrat-von-buhl.de

Importer: Hayward BrothersRRP: £9.89Lovely, elegant �oral nose with fresh, bright citrus fruit on the palate.

Bamberger Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken 2013Nahe

weingut-bamberger.de

Importer: Lea & SandemanRRP: £13.95Bursting with apricots and mangoes; a vibrant wine with a long �nish.

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


Flick Nonnberg Riesling QbA Trocken 2013Rheingau

�ick-wein.de

Importer: The WineryRRP: £14.99A young delicate Riesling with lovely citrus peel.

Louis Guntrum Dry Riesling 2014Rheinhessen

guntrum.de

Importer: ABS Wine AgenciesRRP: £9Soft tropical fruit nuances on the nose. Lovely citrus freshness. A racy number!

Emil Bauer und Söhne Sex, Drugs and Rock ‘n’ Roll dry Riesling 2014Pfalz

bauerwein.de

Importer: Red Squirrel WineRRP: £13.99Fragrant nose with elegant notes of apple on the palate. Jolly wine.

Prinz Riesling Trocken 2013Rheingau

thewineryuk.com

Importer: The WineryRRP: £13.99Ripe and precise. Bursting with delicate fruit. Good balance of minerality.

Domdechant Werner Hochheim Classic Riesling 2013 Rheingau

domdechantwerner.com

Importer: Direct WinesRRP: £12.99Russet apple on the nose. Luscious ripe stone fruit on the palate. Lots to enjoy.

Emil Bauer und Söhne Asshole Sauvignon Blanc 2014Pfalz

bauerwein.de

Importer: Red Squirrel WineRRP: £13.99Classic Sauvignon nose and lively moreish grapefruit palate.

Hans Lang Hattenheimer Wisselbrumen Dry Riesling G.G 2012Rheingau

weingut-hans-lang.de

Importer: Virgin WinesRRP: £12.99Good depth and savoury expression. A balanced Riesling with �ne apple aromas and a complex �nish.

Bamberger Plaisir Riesling Qba 2013Nahe

weingut-bamberger.de

Importer: Lea & SandemanRRP: £11.95De�ned aromatics with green apple notes. A delightful wine, nicely done!

White Rabbit Riesling 2014Rhein

berkmann.co.uk

Importer: Berkmann Wine CellarsRRP: £10.49A well-rounded wine, orange and lime blossom – the taste of spring. Crack it open!

Fritz Willi dry Riesling 2013Mosel

friedrichwilhelmgymnasium.de

Importer: BoutinotRRP: £12.95Soft ripe stone fruit on the nose. A fabulously elegant wine with good structure and precise fruit.

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


Ökonomierat Rebholz Dry Riesling Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs 2012Pfalz

oekonomierat-rebholz.de

Importer: Astrum Wine CellarsRRP: £56.50Lime skin and hints of spice on the nose. Fresh and vibrant fruit throughout. Bursting with character – very moreish.

Leitz KG Berg Sclossberg Riesling ‘Ehrenfels’ Trocken 2013Rheingau

leitz-wein.de

Importer: ABS Wine AgenciesRRP: £35Dances on your palate, this decadent wine is fresh and fruity – yum!

Max Ferdinand Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2007Mosel

maxferdrichter.com

Importer: Charles Taylor WinesRRP: £20Gorgeous nose of limes and satsumas. Medium dry but balanced. Layers of lovely fruit.

RED

Peter & Peter Pinot Noir 2013Pfalz

zgm.de

Importer: ZgmRRP: £10Wild strawberries on the nose and ultra German in style.

Bischö�iche Weingüter Trier Riesling Kabinett 2013Mosel

bischoe�icheweingueter.de

Importer: BoutinotRRP: £13.49Hints of honey – nice luscious �avour.

WHITE£15+

Ökonomierat Rebholz Weisser Burgunder Trocken 2014Pfalz

oekonomierat-rebholz.de

Importer: Astrum Wine CellarsRRP: £15Very elegant with a pretty nose. Bright, fresh and zingy, with good depth.

Bischel Scharlachberg Riesling Trocken 2013Rheinhessen

weingut-bischel.de

Importer: The WineryRRP: £26.99Lovely jasmine perfume. Chunkier on the palate with notes of dried apples and crystallised citrus.

Fritz Ekkehard-Huff Rabenturm Riesling trocken 2013Rheinhessen

weingut-huff.de

Importer: The WineryRRP: £30A lovely balance and intensity. Summer �owers and lime blossom. Easy drinking.

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


Becker-Landgraf Gau-Odernheimer Spätburgunder Trocken 2013Rheinhessen

weingut-beckerlandgraf.de

Importer: The WineryRRP: £16.99Brambles on the nose with a hint of delicate oak. Fresh and lively, �lled with berries.

Durbacher WG Pinot Noir 2012Baden

durbacher.de

Importer: German Wine AgenciesRRP: £18Food-friendly wine balanced with spice and warmth.

Oliver Zeter Pinot Noir Reserve 2012Pfalz

oliver-zeter.de

Importer: German Wine AgenciesRRP: £25Hints of Scottish raspberries a well-rounded wine; nice oak.

Schneider Spätburgunder Weiler Schlipf CS 2012Baden

schneiderweingut.de

Importer: SWIG RRP: £27.50A sweet-natured gentle Pinot – nice core and fruit.

Bernhard Huber Bienenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2012Baden

weingut-huber.com

Importer: Justerini & BrooksRRP: £34.46Embodies Germany. This is Spätburgunder! Rich, intense bursting with red berries.

SWEET

Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2006Mosel

studert-pruem.de

The WineryRRP: £17.99Tangy with hints of lime cordial. Lots of acidity and lovely sweetness. Long �nish.

“ Pinot Noir is an area of growing interest within German wine and there were some good examples”Alex Hunt MW

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


“ Spätburgunders are wines that I regularly fall in love with. It’s like coming home. The tasting showed that there is no better value than German wine”Anne Krebiehl MW

SEEKING IMPORTERS

RIESLING

Theo Minges Riesling Gleisweiler Hölle VDP Grosses Gewächs QbA Trocken 2012Pfalz

weingut-minges.com

[email protected] and zesty with good intensity. Very refreshing.

Winzerfamilie Flick Westhofener Riesling Trocken 2013Rheinessen

weingut-�ick.de

alexander@weingut-�ick.deZippy spritz to begin with then mellows out and reveals layers of fruit with delicate savoury notes.

Daniel Schmitt Riesling Bechtheimer 2013Rheinessen

wgt-schmitt.de

[email protected] value for money. Like biting into a juicy fresh apple.

Hensel Riesling Bad Dürkheim 2014 Pfalz

henselwein.de

[email protected] delicate nose with bright grapefruit hints on the palate.

Dr Corvers-Kauter Riesling Oestrich-Winkel 2013Rheingau

corvers-kauter.de

[email protected] �owers on the nose with stoney fruit on the palate, nice lasting �nish.

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


Schumann-Nägler Riesling Reserve Halbtrocken 2014Rheingau

schumann-naegler.de

[email protected] number with echoes of quince jelly and hints of citrus with some slate.

Vereinigte Hospitien Riesling Trier Wiltinger Hölle 2014Mosel

vereinigtehospitien.de

[email protected] fragrant wine with richer �avours – the citrus jumps out on the �nish.

PINOT NOIR

Rothmeier Pinot Noir 2012Pfalz

ben-rothmeier.de

[email protected] perfume on the nose, great balance of fruit.

Hanewald-Schwerdt Spätburgunder Kalkriff Bad Dürkheim 2012Pfalz

hanewald-schwerdt.de

[email protected] elegant balanced wine with soft berries and some savoury notes.

G.A. Heinrich Spätburgunder Heilbronn 2012Württemberg

weingut-heinrich.de

[email protected] nice soft Pinot Noir with plenty of warm spice.

Martin Wassmer Schlatter Maltesergarten Spätburgunder 2011Baden

weingut-wassmer.de

[email protected], textured, some good length, lovely balance. This guy is doing something special.

OTHER, SEKT & WHITE

Schätzle Grauburgunder 2013Baden

weingutschaetzle.de

[email protected] very focused wine with a soft ripe mouthfeel.

Wilhelmshof Siebeldingen Grauburgunder 2013Pfalz

wilhelmshof.de

[email protected] perfume with nice ripe fruit on the palate. Good concentration.

SEEKING IMPORTERS

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


Bergdolt-Reif & Nett Weissburgunder 2013Pfalz

weingut-brn.de

[email protected] nose with delicate fresh palate, evolved in the glass and lasts on the palate.

Espenhof Weissburgunder Flonheim 2013Rheinessen

espenhof.de

[email protected] balanced wine, very pretty and elegant. Fine apricot fragrance with hints of lemongrass and cedar. Great use of oak.

DIVINO Nordheim Thüngersheim eG Silvaner 2013Franken

divino-nordheim.de

[email protected] on the nose; pleasant and fruity and very enjoyable.

Oberhofer GbR Gewürztraminer Spätlese 2013Pfalz

weingutoberhofer.de

[email protected] and delicious – this is lovely. Controlled perfume and hints of Turkish delight.

Juliusspital Silvaner Würzburg Trocken 2014Franken

weingut-juliusspital.de

[email protected] brilliantly refreshing wine spritzy and focused.

OTHER NON-PINOT

REDS

Terra X Frühburgunder Reserve 2012Mosel

txwf.de

[email protected] excellent example of Frühburgunder. Packed full of cherries and fresh spices.

GERMAN WINE TOP 50


B

L

F

A

CZ

CH

NLPL

Main

DK

Weser

Elbe

Elbe

Oder

Rhein

Donau

Donau

Mos

el

Neckar

Saale

Elbe

Kiel

Rostock

Schwerin

Frankfurt

Cottbus

Dresden

ChemnitzGera

Suhl

Erfurt

LeipzigHalle

Magdeburg

Würzburg

Nürnberg

Neubrandenburg

München

Augsburg

Freiburg

Stuttgart

Mannheim

FrankfurtWiesbaden

Mainz

Saarbrücken

Kassel

Köln

Bonn

Düsseldorf

DortmundEssen

Hannover

Braunschweig

Bremen

Bremerhaven

Lübeck

Potsdam

Hamburg

Ludwigshafen

Konstanz

Flensburg

Linz

Salzburg

BregenzInnsbruck

Basel

Berlin

Praha (Prag)

Straßbourg(Straßburg)

Szczecin(Stettin)

Plzen(Pilsen)

Mulhouse

Metz

Ulm

HeilbronnKarlsruhe

Gießen

Hof

Bayreuth

Münster

Göttingen

Bielefeld

Osnabrück

Siegen

Trier

Oldenburg

Uelzen

Saßnitz

Ingolstadt

Kempten

Passau

NAHENAHE

Ostsee

Nordsee

Main

Rhein

WÜRTTEMBERGWÜRTTEMBERG

BADENBADEN

PFALZPFALZ

RHEIN-HESSENRHEIN-HESSEN HESS.

BERGSTR.HESS.BERGSTR.

FRANKENFRANKENRHEINGAURHEINGAU MOSEL MOSEL

MITTEL-RHEINMITTEL-RHEINAHRAHR

SAALE-UNSTRUT SAALE-UNSTRUT SACHSENSACHSEN

WINE REGIONS OF GERMANY

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Harpers Wine & Spirit - April 2015 - Germany a fresh perspective

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Transcript of Harpers Wine & Spirit - April 2015 - Germany a fresh perspective