Interactive front part tool for a jacket with a princess seam

Grafis Patternmaking of the highest level

GRAFIS-Software is demonstrating patternmaking of the highest level at the CISMA 2011 in Shanghai. Along with the basic principles of operation, GRAFIS will also present some of the major new key advancements to be expected in the next version. It is specifically these new developments that facilitate the creation and application of company specific drafting process modules. The key distinctive features of the CAD-Software GRAFIS are still the recorded construction steps and the interdependency of the pattern pieces. The foundation for pattern construction in GRAFIS is the standard measurement charts for grading size sets or individual measurement charts for made-to-measure production. The basic blocks in GRAFIS are a set of recorded drafting instructions that are continually recalculated

using the assigned measurement charts. The basic blocks can be altered by changing the measurement charts or adjusting other parameters. Shirts, blouses, dresses, jackets and coats can all be created by adjusting the parameters of a basic bodice block. The parameters are adjusted interactively on the computer monitor using an option menu to toggle options and/or in the drag areas by dragging interactive points or handles. The adjusted parameters are referred to as a ‚shape’ and can also be saved as such. To speed up the drafting process, interactive front and back bodice tools are available. The fit of the basic block is automatically transferred to these tools which can then quickly be interactively adjusted. One of the front part tools contains the following six style variations: a vertical separating seam from the shoulder, a princess seam or a princess seam with bust dart, each variation with or without a side panel. One of the back part tools contains the style variations: a vertical separating seam from the shoulder or a princess seam also

each with or without a side panel. There are three front part tools and three back part tools which can be combined with one another to allow for a large variation of styles (see illustration: Interactive front part tool for a jacket with a princess seam). Other interactive tools include style variations for the front edge for example. A new development is used to draft a yoke pattern piece. The lines for the yoke construction are inserted using an interactive insert tool which automatically creates a small screen shot of the insert

Fabric / interfacing modules from a jacket module kit

object clicked. This creates a link between the construction piece and the yoke pattern piece. This step has also been recorded. After the yoke pattern piece has been completed, this link can be dissolved and the yoke pattern piece can be saved as a prepared drafting process module. For example, it could later be used in the construction of a mens sports jacket. The small screen shots indicate which objects are to be inserted to attach the yoke to the new style i.e. the mens sport jacket. The insert tools allow for the development of many different drafting process modules with which highly efficient module kits can be created. The user can develop and maintain the module kits as required. Company specific pattern drafting knowledge is stored in the module kits which are then available to all pattern making staff. A complete jacket style can be constructed using a module kit (see illustration: Fabric / interfacing modules from a jacket module kit). Benefits of module kits • Pattern makers and technicians

can together standardise the drafting process

• Pattern drafting mistakes can be minimised • Pattern development time and effort are reduced • Company specific pattern drafting knowledge can be made available to external development

companies • Additional information can be registered as required (label, measurements, parameter etc.) Styles created in GRAFIS can be graded using standard measurements. The same style can also be used for individual customer measurements. The shapes of the basic block, the lapel collar, the sleeve or the front edge can all be adjusted as required. These adjustments are automatically transferred from the style pieces to the production pattern pieces. Proven styles can easily be implemented into the MTM-system „una cum alqo“. All pattern drafting steps are recorded in GRAFIS. The steps are recalculated using the assigned measurement charts. All style created in GRAFIS are immediately gradable. The styles can be calculated with standard measurement charts or with those of individual customers. Due to the piece dependency, all production pattern pieces are automatically updated. The creation of highly efficient individual module kits is possible. In this manner it is possible to catalogue company specific pattern drafting knowledge.

Grafis最高水平的制版技术

GRAFIS-Software在上海 CISMA 2011上 展示

他最高水平的制版技术。GRAFIS 推出在原有

的基础上开发的下一代版本。此版本使得制

版和公司个性化样板的应用更加容易。

步骤化的制版和下级裁片的相关性体现的

GRAFIS 的与众不同。GRAFIS中的制版基础是

根据尺码表的扩版或者个性化的尺码表

GRAFIS 中所保存的基本版可以总是根据新建

立的尺码表重新计算。更改的尺码以及许多

参数可以影响基本版。

一个上衣的基本版可以通过修改参数使之

成为男衬衫，女衬衫，套装，夹克和大衣。

这些参数不一定要在列表中输入，甚至可

以通过互动工具在屏幕上直观的调节或者通过拖曳控制点设置。这些参数可以在

GRAFIS中作为模板并被保存。

前片和后片的互动工具使得繁琐

的款式变形的过程得到了简化。

通过此工具可以用一个点击得到

设置好的基本款型并可以通过互

动设置设计新款。比如前片工具

可以选择以下 6 种款型：从肩膀

开始的分割线， 公主缝，有省的

刀背缝（有或没有附加侧缝）。

后片工具的设置有从肩膀开始的

分割线， 公主缝（有或没有附加

侧缝）。一共有前片工具和后片

工具各 3 个，且可以互相组合出

多种款式。(见图片：有公主线

夹克的前片互动工具). 其他的

互动工具有，比如前门襟的设计

等...

一个新的版型源自所添加原件的改进。新的导入工具可以把原件的线条分离出来，并针对这个

点击生成一个小截屏图片。通过这个导入工具在原件和样板之间形成关联，同样这个关联步骤

会被记录下来。在完成原件设计后，这个关联可以被分离，并且原件可以作为准备好的模块保

存起来。以后可以在其他样板调用和关联，比如男西服。保存下来的截屏图片可以作为重新关

联的参考。

有公主线夹克的前片互动工具

通过导入工具的辅助可以设置多种多样的工作模块，且发展出高效的模块系统。使用者可以自

己设置和维护这些模块。在模块中可以保存公司所独有的资料，所有工作人员和制版师可以调

用。用这种方法可以通过调用模块的方式完成一件完整的夹克制版(见图: 整件夹克面料和

辅料的组件).

模板的优势

• 制版师和技术人员的工作标准

化，

• 制版过程中的错误最小化，

• 降低制版过程的消耗和缩短其

时间，

• 使用公司所特有的资料，也可

以提供给国外的制版部门使用

• 附加信息，如文字，尺寸和参

数也可以保存。

GRAFIS 制作的款式可以按标准尺

码表扩版。您也可以根据特定客

户尺码扩版。基本款,驳领，袖子

或者门襟的样式也可以自由的设

置。这些设置通过基本版向裁片

传递。 MTM系统 „una cum alqo“可以使得款式的维护更为简便。GRAFIS中所有的制版的步

骤会被记录，并作为基础根据尺码表重新制版。所有 GRAFIS中制作的款式可以马上扩版。这

些款式可以按标准尺码表扩版，也可以根据具体客户的尺码计算 。裁片的相关性是可靠的，

所有裁片会被刷新。您可以制作自己高效的模板系统。这样公司所独有的资料就能以一个有活

力的方式保存起来。

整件夹克面料和辅料的组件