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Transcript of Glam June 2013 - my works
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editor sindhu nair
chie ashion correspondent debrina aliyah
senior correspondents abigail mathias
ezdhar ibrahim ali
ayswarya murthy
correspondent sabrina christensen
photographer rob altamirano
senior art director venkat reddy
deputy art director hanan abu siam
assistant art director ayush indrajith
senior graphic designer maheshwar reddy b
senior manager marketing zulikar jiry
assistant managers - marketing chaturka karandana
thomas jose
senior media consultants hasan rekkab
lydia yousse
marketing research & support executive kanwal baluch
senior accountant pratap chandran
sr. distribution executive bikram shrestha
distribution support arjun timilsina
bhimal rai
basantha.p
publisher and editorinchie yousu jassem al darwish
chie executive sandeep sehgal
executive vice president alpana royvice president ravi raman
GLAM is pubLished by Oryx AdvertisinG cO. WLL.the contents of this pUblication are sUbJect to copyright and cannot be
reprodUced withoUt the express permission of the pUblisher and/or license
holder. all rights rest with datalog media solUtions. the pUblisher does not
accept responsibility for any advertising contents carried in this pUblication.
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call Us: +974 4455098 3, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 fax: +974 4455098 2
Online
editiOn
EVENTS OF THE MONTH
COMING UP
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iN rETrOSPEcT WHEN PUrSUiNg THiS STOry, i cHATTEd
WiTH my friENdS ANd rEALiSE THAT ALmOST ALL Of
US HAd fOUNd OUr firST LOvE iN A LOUiS vUiTTON
mONOgrAm bAg iN OUr EArLy fASHiON dAyS. ANd THOUgH
WE HAd ALL gONE ON TO fiNd OUr OWN NicHE ANd
OTHEr LOvES, THErE iS NO rEPLAciNg THAT ExHiLArATiNg
fEELiNg WHEN yOU HAd firST HELd THE bAg iN yOUr ArmS.
iN A TrUE fASHiON SENSE, THiS WAS LiKE OUr OWN SEcrET
riTE Of PASSAgE iNTO THE WOrLd.
ThEMARk
ofluxuRyby debrina aliyah
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HEriTAgE /37
is without a doubt that the Louis Vuitton monogramwas the earliest symbol of designer consciousnessglobally. When fashion embarked on its worldwidedominance, the LV monogram led the way and
became the singular synonym for luxury. Beyond justa tote or a luggage trunk, the monogram representeda step into designer sphere for many and today, itremains the most sought-after emblem in the fashionindustry.
Behind the glamourous connotation of the LouisVuitton brand, lies the story of a filial son who wantedto honour his father. Georges, son of Louis Vuitton theman himself, started working on the design of a newcanvas soon after succeeding his father. The creationof the Damier canvas in 1888, was his f irst initiative,a move to stop other trunk makers from copyingtheir work. The Damier canvas features brown andbeige squares and the name of the company for thefirst time. But in time, when the Damier design wasnot enough to keep imitators away, Georges createdthe Monogram canvas in 1896, which cleverlyincorporated his father s initial into the design.
The initials LV became immortalised in the
monogram canvas and the accompanying ornamentsin the design are flowers that Georges scatter to crownhis father s work. The flowers were also reminiscent ofthe decorative floral ornaments in the Vuitton privatehome. There had been Gien earthenware tiles in thehouse at Asnis since Georges was born, and theymay have unconsciously influenced his quest for theperfect design. Georges was also known to be insistenton drawing four-petal flowers and four-point stars thatresembled four-leaf clovers, a move interpreted to bea superstitious gesture meant to ward off ill fortune. In1896, the Monogram became the company s emblem.
The Monogram DesignThe pattern is made up of four ornaments, three
stylized floral motifs combining thegeometrics with the botanical andthe monogram of the interlacedinitials of Louis Vuitton. The strong
graphic style is based on a rhythmicinterplay of horizontal and obliquelines that draw two incomplete triangles. The twoincomplete triangles are almost identical, butinverted, so the base of the L supports the point ofthe V. The first floral motif is the brown star withfour curved points while the second floral motifis the reverse image of the four-pointed star withlight beige points or petals with a dark beige dotin the center. The last motif is a brown four-petalflower inside a light b eige circle. At the center of theflower is another small light beige circle or dot. Thestylized motifs and interplay of the shapes create astrongly graphic symmetry that is reinforced by themotifs layout.
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g v s o f m,1920
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l p a m, 1938
a d a m, 1962
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i w,2012
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Artistic InterpretationsElements of the Monogram pattern that became thecompany emblem in 1896 derive from the rules andtraditions of heraldry. It has the simple structure ofthe first coats of arms, from feudal times, which weremeant to be visible from a distance, in the heart of amelee, in the middle of the battlef ield.
ome have suggested that the
Monogram reflects the aesthetictrends that were in vogue atthe time of its creation, thatGeorges might have more or lessconsciously been influenced bythe contemporary atmospherefor his canvas. It was a timewhen the Nabis painters insistedon the decorative dimensionof painting, simplifying shapes
and giving them the power of symbols and a timewhen distant influences traversed time and space. Afascination with the Middle Ages had b een influencingart and design since the romantics brought back intofashion Gothic barbarity, with its carved filigree and
gargoyles.Since the opening of Japan to the West in 1854 and
the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1867, Japaneseart had permeated Europe. In the 18 70s and 1880sit sparked such a passion among the public andamong artists that everything shaped by Far Easterninfluences was referred to as japonisme. Japan hasa tradition of family crests called mon, identifying
individuals and lines of descent. There is thedisconcerting coincidence between the Japanese wordmon and the first syllable of Monogram. Moreover,the stylized floral motifs that abound in the coats ofarms of feudal Japanese nobility are very similar to thefigures Georges drew.
Rather than seeking a direct affiliation betweenjaponisme and the Monogram, the Japaneseconnection can be understood thus: the Monogramcanvas presents a group of signs with universalpower. The secret of its lasting success lies in thisuniversality. The design touches everyone, withoutnecessarily evoking the same response. It catchespeople s attention, but it s interpreted differently byall who see it.
HEriTAgE /39a h love in the
afternoon; m,1957
s
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A
lice Temperley is a woman ofsteel. There is a clear visionof where she sees her fashionempire going and she is chargingforward, even it means wakingup at 4 am for a shoot in a desertfar away from home. Withoutany artistic remorse, she
embraces that the demands of the fashion market arechanging and she is rising to the occasion to make sureshe catches the new wave.
This determination has made the label TemperleyLondon the kind of success that a budding fashiondesigner can only dream of. Founded a little over adecade ago, the brand now sits on a pedestal amongthe ranks of luxury houses that have decades of historyand craftsmanship. And rightfully so. When you look at
the collections that have been sent down the runway,the pieces all demonstrate the polished refinery andskill of Alice as a fashion designer. And though theromantic embellished dresses look like they are fit fora ballroom, they work equally well on occasions thatdemand a little dash of the Brit edge. "I think it is justthe way we Brits look at things. We make clothes thatcan be worn in a very relaxed way. We combine and putthings together in a much more classic and differentperspective," Alice says.
But the journey has not been an easy one. Togetherwith her husband, Lars von Bennigsen, who is alsoa partner in the label, the duo has weathered therecession and pressures of combining work andpleasure. "It is exhausting and tiring and a real
ThE BRANd
ThEPERSoNATHE dESigNEr bEHiNd THE
fAmOUS briT brANd.
by debrina aliyah
ALice teMperLey:
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rollercoaster ride. It has taken 10 years to get a goodteam, 10 years to be really conf ident about what we aredoing and 10 years to be selling to all these differentmarkets. It's a learning curve when you are building abrand and now it is amazing to see how we are ranked
against all these bigger brands. I think about it for amoment and then I move on, because in truth, I haven'thad time to think about it because we never really sitstill," she says.
"I did textile and fabric training. I was never intofashion that much. It was more of movies and costumedesign for me. When I ventured into the fashionindustry, I was surprised how much goes into it andwas pushed into the public eye without realising it.When I learned all about the business of fashion, itwas really the details and the love of textile that keptme going. That's why our brand is more about lifestylethan fashion. Now that the essence of TemperleyLondon is very strong, it's time to take it into the nextphase," she explained.
And the next phase has arrived in the Middle East.Her first store opened in the Dubai Mall in 2009 andhas been wildly successful with regional clients, anextension of the steady stream of Middle Eastern
shoppers at her L ondon establishment. "Coming hereis very important because this market is just veryrelevant right now with a lot of retail visibility. Wehave to embrace the movement of markets aroundthe world and understand that the world's economy isfluctuating. Anyone with a right sense of business willrespond to this market. But of course, we can adapt butnot change the brand's DNA completely.
fresh from shooting herAutumn Winter 2014 andBridal at the Ras Al Khaimah'sBanyan Tree Resort in Dubai,Alice officially launchedher new Temperley Londonflagship store in The GateMall, West Bay. "We used todo a lot of kaftans and we willbe bringing that back to caterexclusively to this market.
There are plans to do abayas and scarves, which is anatural transition from some of the designs that wehave done before. Crossing our fingers, we are hopingto see these plans materialise in the Spring Summer2014 collection and pop up in the boutique soon after,"she informs.
And we will be seeing more of Temperley as sheopens up her designing process through her website.The focus on interactive and informative contentonline serves to make clients feel like they are part ofthe label. "We are a very ap proachable and real brand.We are down to earth and we are not a big corporatecompany with tonnes of employees. We are an organicbrand and it is silly not to show what happens behindthe scenes!"
How to achieve fashion success?"Sheer hard work and determination are the reasons whywe are here. I have been very passionate about what I do,and focused on it. You have to enjoy the brand and thegrowth and stay focused. Do it because you want to do it,not just because you want to be in the industry or makemoney out of it. You have to enjoy the process. And ifyou have not had lots of education in the f ield, then youshould definitely get training or experience because youhave to have an eye, there are no two ways about it. If youwant to get into designing, you have to believe in what youdo and you have to be prepared to give your life away for acertain amount of years."
SPOTLigHT /41
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The start-studded gala affair is over and nowthe attention comes back to the core of thecelebration, the PUNK: Chaos to Coutureexhibition which will be headlining at theMetropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
The exhibition looks at punks impact on highfashion from the movements birth in the
early 1970s through its continuing influencetoday. Featuring approximately one hundreddesigns for men and women, the exhibition
will include original punk garments and
recent, directional fashion to illustrate howhaute couture and ready-to-wear b orrowpunks visual symbols. Focusing on the
relationship between the punk concept ofdo-it-yourself and the couture concept ofmade-to-measure, the seven galleries areorganized around the materials, techniques,
and embellishments associated with the anti-establishment style. Themes include New
York and London, telling punks origin story
as a tale of two cities, followed by Clothes forHeroes and four manifestations of the D.I.Y.aestheticHardware, Bricolage, Graffiti and
Agitprop, and Destroy. The exhibition runs till14 August 2013.
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Rock
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44 \ fASHiON
Rock
RollPrints and bling are all the rage andwe think a dose of attitude is needed
to match the trend. let your hair down
and live uP these rock and roll Pieces! s: d a
p: a r a bm: j m l & s d sh & m: s r & v k glow
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t & lalexander mcqueen
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fASHiON /45t & s karen millenp giuseppe zanotti
fASHiON /45
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d & bbalenciaga
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t karen millen
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I
f there was ever a collection that put smiles on faces, this is it.You just cannot help but feel happy and upbeat about life as youpreview the colourful and light-hearted pieces of Kage SS13designs. The young and vibrant perspective sets a very integralmood for summer, a relaxing vacation that will h ave you refreshedwith a new outlook for the rest of the year. The design duo behindKage, Arwa and Basma, places a strong emphasis on very simple
and easy-to-wear cuts, and from our point of view, very easy topack too. The label s DNA on the happy life is a mantra that the duo keepsclose to heart when designing, The KAGE woman is young at heart, playful,natural, and effortless. She doesn t take fashion too seriously. And sometimes,not taking things too seriously is just the right formula.
"We designed the SS13 collection to accommodate any holiday destinationthe KAGE woman might be travelling to and whatever she may be doing. Wehave an array of vibrant and liberating pieces without compromising style orcomfort. This was achieved through light and breezy fabrics. All the piecesare colourful and exciting, helping the KAGE girl to refresh and feel liberated
from dark winters," says Arwa. The UAE-based brand was launched in 2009 asa contemporary womenswear clothing label and is one of the few casual pret-a-porter offerings in a market that is saturated with demi-couture and bespokedesigners. Fresh from showing at the recent inaugural Fashion Forwardin Dubai last month, it is no surprise that the label received much positive
SuMMERlovEby debrina aliyah suMMerWArdroBe
fOcUS / 67
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fOcUS /67
response even from the international guests. Designing for the girl next doorin mind, the collections have always revolved around travel inspirations andlaid back garments.
KAGE rose to fame with their wildly successful oversized t-shirts that can bestyled in different ways to meet the occasion. This summer, they reinterpretedthe t-shirt with fringing, playful frills and full-laced backs in new colours andprints. We have taken the simple t-shirt and given it a whole new dimension.
By keeping the focus on precise tailoring and cuts, the dresses, shorts, skirtsand shirts are elegant yet keeping in line with our love for the bohemianaesthetic.
Even at this stage of the label s career, the girls are already keen on givingback to the community. Working passionately for the breast cancer awarenesscause, they created the signature KAGE t-shirts with special illustrations in2011 to raise money for the campaign. Last year, they launched another cheekyslogan tee that carried the message Have You Been Checked? for the samecampaign.
As you are headed out for your vacation this year, the girls at Kage have a few
words of style to give. Always explore your wardrobe. It is easy to get into aroutine of wearing the same pieces together. It is important to mix and matchas this can reignite your whole wardrobe and style. Just remember minimalismis key, and never over accessorise.
kage is available at www.bykage.com and dados beauty & spa, west bay.
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A
new season, a newvacation, and a newdesigner collection.Debutante fashion
designer MariannaGoulandris bringsto life the exotic andmythical dreams of
the Mediterranean Greece in her first SS13collection for her eponymous swimwear la-bel, Marianna G.
There is no mistaking the inspiration andstory that Marianna wants to convey in hercollection. Even a quick glimpse will send
you into the azure skies of Santorini andfantasies of time past, where opulence is anecessary affair among the mythologies ofthe Greek gods. Crafted out of rich Italianfabrics using draping techniques with fine
embellishments, the tactile impression ofthe collection is far removed from the con-ventional materials used for swimwear.And perhaps this is the winning factor for
the budding label, understanding thatclothes, especially resort wear, is not allabout functionality but the vision and life-style it exudes.
The StoryI really understand how women feel abouttheir bodies especially in swimwear, whereit is so easy to feel vulnerable. It became amission of mine to create something that
would make women feel both comfort-able and chic. I grew up observing the stylesense of women of all ages including mypeers and friends of my mother and grand-mother. This experience really helps me in
creating a versatile range that would suitvarious body shapes.
The Collection
The swimwear line is split into three parts;Brights which is more of a young fun sectionwith easy shapes and bright colours. Ath-letic which is a lot more fitted, a lot morestructure in the shapes and the Lycra con-tent is higher creating more support for thebody. And finally Goddess, which unlikethe two previous groups has a lot of earthycolours and gold and pearl white fabricsthat creates a very luxurious feel. There s
also a Ready to Wear line which has beau-tiful cotton crochet fabrics and maxi dress-es and skirts in 100% silk with the printfrom our swimwear. My biggest inspirationcame from Greece. This included creating
A gREcIAN
dREAM
suMMer
WArdroBe
fOcUS / 69
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fOcUS /69
mood boards for each section and linkingmy inspirations. For the Brights section I
was looking into the peasant girl who worevery bold colours. For sporty I focused onGrecian armour and how the warriors wereportrayed with structured suits and fittedsilhouettes, very similar to my one piec-es. When looking at the Goddess section Iresearched a lot of the Grecian goddessesand used gold trims and colours that createa very glamorous and luxurious feel.
On DesigningI have always been passionate about fash-ion and have grown up in a householdwhere fashion was a big part of our lives. Mymother is always incredibly well-dressed
and is a real fashion icon to me. When I wasyounger, watching her get ready for eventsor nights out made me understand whatstyle is and that really influenced me. I liketo think her style sense has b een passed onto me too.
Fashion in the Middle East
I find the women very elegant and alwaysmaintain a very exotic beauty. Dependingon where you go to in the Middle East it dif-fers but from Dubai, being the place I havevisited most, they have a very unique wayof turning things into special pieces, may-be a bag they have customised - they puttheir own twist to things.
suMMer styLe tips
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APPrEciATiON fOr ANyTHiNg iN LifE ALWAyS cOmES frOm
KNOWLEdgE ANd A dEEPEr UNdErSTANdiNg Of THE PAST.
WHiLE iT iS EASy TO gO WiLd ON SHOPPiNg HOLidAyS ANd
bUyiNg TONNES Of fASHiON iTEmS, THiS SUmmEr, WErEcOmmENd A brEAK frOm THE SHOPPiNg ANd A cUE ON
THE LEArNiNg. mAKE rOOm iN yOUr TrAvEL diAry fOr A
diScOvEry JOUrNEy ON THE HiSTOry ANd fOUNdiNg Of
SOmE Of THE biggEST fASHiON brANdS iN THE WOrLd. iT iS
JUST SO mUcH mOrE fUN TO WEAr A LiTTLE bLAcK cHANEL
JAcKET HAviNg SEEN WHErE iT HAd ALL STArTEd frOm.
bON vOyAgE!
fAShIoN-cATIoN
hoTSPoTSby debrina aliyah
styLe
escApe
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cristObALbALenciAGA MuseuM6 aldamar parkea, getaria, spain.www.cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com
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cOcO chAneL sApArtMent31 rue cambon, paris, rance.(by appointment via chanelonly.)
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vivA mAyr cENTEr iN AUSTriA cOmbiNES
SEvErAL NATUrAL THErAPEUTic APPrOAcHES
WiTH THE mAiN fOcUS ON THE digESTiON
SySTEm. Debrina aliyah gETS iNTrOdUcEd
TO THiS NEW APPrOAcH ANd cOmES bAcK ANENTHUSiASTic cONvErT.
A guT
fEElINg
ExPEriENcE /101
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Dr. Christine Stossier of the famous Viva MayrCenter in Austria took the one empty seat atour table for lunch, everyone had a mild lookof horror on their faces. Just moments before,she had announced during her introduction
that talking was not encouraged during mealsat her clinic and that it is an absolute need foryou to chew at least forty times before youswallow your food. Lunch was going to be aquiet affair.
But of course, we were not at her clinicbut at the beautiful Traiteur restaurant atPark Hyatt Dubai, and Dr. Stossier did chat
with us throughout lunch, albeit only inbetween courses. Exchanges were thrownacross the table with many ladies openly
discussing their eating habits and dietaryrestrictions. I had pinned Dr. Stossier downthen as a no-nonsense kind of woman, sheshot down ridiculous suggestions of fadeating trends including the very popular
raw food movement. I quietly noted downmany philosophies of the Viva Mayr methodand could easily relate that they were allfundamentals of eating that we had longforgotten -- no talking with your mouth full,
chewing your food properly, and genuinelyjust enjoying the taste and texture of yourmeals, were just some of them. In the book,The Viva Mayr Diet, the founder of the VivaMayr approach, Dr. Harald Stossier stressedthat we have to relearn the most basic humanaction of eating. In keeping with our busylives, we do not really think about eatinganymore. We just throw some food into ourbody and move on.
Still, I have to admit I was about half askeptic when I arrived later in the afternoonat Dubai Herbal and Treatment Center formy consultation with Dr. Stossier. My familyand friends will be quick to testify that I ama bona fide health and f itness fanatic, andafter passing a thorough medical check 10months ago with flying colours, I knew I wasin the green zone, or so I thought. If thereis nothing wrong with you, then there issomething wrong with the diagnosis. Nobodyis perfect, Dr. Stossier asserted. I guess youdo not mess with Austrian precision and trueenough, in that one hour spent with her, Icame out of the room a complete convert.
The modern Viva Mayr therapy is a formof complementary medicine that combinesseveral natural therapeutic approaches withthe main focus being your digestion system.
Everything starts from your gut. It is thefoundation of your health. If you look at a tree,the strength comes from the root and the rootis like your gut, Dr Stossier explained.
And so she went about a diagnosis
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102 \ ExPEriENcE
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consultation for me using the appliedkinesiology test, a simple method thatinvolves asking the body questions and
letting the body respond through changesin muscle strength. The changes in musclestrength as a reaction to targeted stimulireveals a lot in terms of food intolerances,requirements of vitamins and vitalsubstances or other medical measures.This test was a real eye-opener, as I sawmy body immediately reacted to differentfood groups. Dr. Stossiers diagnosisanswered long-standing small doubts Ihad of my health, which the conventionalmedical check 10 months ago had failed todetect.
If you were checked into the Austriaclinic, you would then embark on athree- week recovery journey followingyour diagnosis with a team of doctorsheaded by Dr. Christines husband, Dr.
dubAi herbAL AndtreAtMent center
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Harald. In that time, while enjoying abeautiful retreat away from the stress ofdaily life, you will be introduced to the
Viva Mayr way of eating and approachto life. Many patients come away with arenewed sense of experience and outlookon their eating habits, and of course, acure for their ailments.
As for me, Dr. Stossier prescribedchanges that I could undertake on myown to fix my ailments. Seriously, shehad remarked that I do not view theseproblems lightly.
When you are young, your body iscapable of f ighting against problems.What people dont realise is that one daywhen they wake up with diabetes, forexample, when they are 40 years old; its aslow process that has been building up foryears. So it is important for you to addressthe root of the problems now. Needlessto say, I took her advice seriously too.
It is one thing to live life like there is notomorrow, but it is another when you havetruly seen for yourself what your body istrying to tell you.
the vivA MAyr phiLOsOphy
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