my works in GLAM November 2013

8/14/2019 my works in GLAM November 2013

1/23


2/23

EDITOR SINDHU NAIR

CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT DEBRINA ALIYAH

SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS ABIGAIL MATHIAS

EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

AYSWARYA MURTHY

PHOTOGRAPHER ROB ALTAMIRANO

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR VENKAT REDDY

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR HANAN ABU SIAM

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR AYUSH INDRAJITH

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MAHESHWAR REDDY B

SENIOR MANAGER MARKETING ZULFIKAR JIFFRY

ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING THOMAS JOSE

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS HASAN REKKAB

LYDIA YOUSSEF

MARKETING RESEARCH & SUPPORT EXECUTIVE KANWAL BALUCH

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT PRATAP CHANDRAN

SR. DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA.P

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH

CHIEF EXECUTIVE SANDEEP SEHGAL

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT ALPANA ROY

VICE PRESIDENT RAVI RAMAN

GLAM IS PUBLISH ED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL.

THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE

REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER ANDOR LICENSE

HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT

ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION.

CONTACT INFOOMSQATAR.COM, GLAMOMSQATAR.COM

WWW.ISSUU.COMORYXMAGS

WWW.FACEBOOK.COMGLAMQATAR

CALL US: +974 4455098 3, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 4455098 2

GLAMSOCIAL MEDIA

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

COMING UP

We have just recently forayed into the worldof Instagram! Follow us on @GlamQatarwhere we will be bringing you snaps of

what happens in GLAM HQ, events aroundtown, and bits of stylish people in the city.

1Art Conservation Conference

Nov 28, Museum of Islamic Art

The art conservation conference will feature aunique opportunity to learn more about an

iconic vintage Dior dress that is part of the V&AMuseums collection in London. Frances Hartog,

a curator at the museum who looks after thefashion section will be speaking specifically onthe conservation of the dress. The 53-year-oldDior Zemire ensemble dress illustrate the story

of how dressmaking was replaced byready-to-wear fashion, with a unique story of the

journey of how the dress ended up in themuseum. Claire Wilcox, the curator of the

previous exhibition, spotted the Zemire at anauction of couture in Paris. Filthy, watermarked,and having been clumsily altered, it was on saleas an anonymous piece of Dior. I recognised itimmediately, she said. This was the star piece

of Diors autumn/winter 1954 collection, ofwhich we had thought no versions had

survived.

We celebrate our 6th birthday next month in

our bumper-packed issue where we pick sixof our favourite fashion and lifestyle

establishments in Qatar. Also, an exclusivelook into the oldest leather maker in theworld, Delvaux, which opened the firstMiddle East store at The Pearl recently.


3/23

G TalkT HAS BEEN TWO MONTHS SINCE THE SEPTEMBER SHOW WAS PRESENTED IN THE VICTORIA & ALBERT

MUSEUM IN LONDON. TO THOSE WHO HAVE NOT HEARD, YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE. IN

OUR PURSUIT TO PROMOTE QATARI FASHION TALENTS, WE ARE ALWAYS EXCITED WHEN WE HEAR OF

INITIATIVES LIKE THIS ONE TO NOT ONLY BRING LIGHT TO THE CREATIVE EXTRAORDINAIRE WE HAVE,

BUT ALSO TO BREAK STEREOTYPES OF WHAT PEOPLE ACTUALLY WEAR IN THIS REGION.

THE SEPTEMBER SHOW, ORGANISED AS PART OF QMAS QATARUK CULTURAL YEAR, SHOWCASED THE

ABAYA AND JALABIYA COLLECTIONS OF THREE QATARI DESIGNERS TO A SELECT AUDIENCE AT THE

GORGEOUS MUSEUM. THE SHOW WAS WELLRECEIVED, AND IT BECAME A CONVERSATION STARTER

FOR THE WIDER ISSUE OF THE DRESSING OF ARAB WOMEN. SHORTLY AFTER THE SHOW, A THINLY

DISGUISED SNIPPY REVIEW WAS PUBLISHED IN ONE OF UKS LEADING NEWSPAPERS, THE TIMES. THE

WRITER HAD CONVENIENTLY CALLED THE COLLECTION ALL THE SAME AND INSTEAD FOCUSED ON

THE WHAT THE GUESTS WERE WEARING, AS IF DESIGNER HANDBAGS AND SHOES ARE NOT A NORM

WITH THE FASHION PACK GLOBALLY.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER THAT WHILE THE ABAYA HAS LONG BEEN REGARDED BY SOME AS

A TOOL OF OPPRESSION, WOMEN IN THE ARAB WORLD THESE DAYS EMBRACE THE GARMENT AS A

CULTURAL IDENTITY AND SOMETHING THAT THEY WEAR BY CHOICE. THE COLOURS, THE EMBROIDERY

WORK, THE CUTS, AND THE DECORATIVE ELEMENTS MAKE EACH ABAYA AND JALABIYA UNIQUE PIECESOF THEIR OWN. AS A PIECE OF TECHNICAL DESIGN WORK, THESE EFFORTS SHOULD NOT BE WRITTEN

OFF AS JUST ANOTHER DRAB OF A BLACK CLOAK.

THIS ISSUE, IN CELEBRATION OF THE SEPTEMBER SHOW AND THE UPCOMING SISTER EVENT THAT

WILL TAKE PLACE HERE AT HOME IN DECEMBER, WE EXPLORE THE LONGSTANDING TIES BETWEEN

QATAR AND THE UK, HIGHLIGHTING THE FASHION RELATIONSHIPS BUILT DURING THE EVENT, WITH

FEATURES INCLUDING AN EXCLUSIVE WITH UKS FAVOURITE MILLINER, PHILIP TREACY.

LONG LIVE THE ABAYA.

EDITORS PICKMERCEDES BENZ FASHION

WEEK WENT NORTH INOCTOBER TO MOSCOW, WHERE

DESIGNERS FROM RUSSIA, UK

AND JAPAN PRESENTED THEIR

SS14 COLLECTIONS. SLAVA

ZAITSEX, THE GODFATHER OF

RUSSIAN FASHION OPENED

THE EVENT WITH THE LABELS

75TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY

COLLECTION. TAKING PL ACE

AT THE STUNNING MANEGE,

WHICH IS NEXT TO THE

KREMLIN, THE EVENT IS ONE OF

THE RISING STARS IN THEGLOBAL FASHION STAGE.

Photo by Oleg Nikishin/Getty Images forMercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia)


4/23


5/23


6/23

MIU MIU MATELASS FRAME BAG

Miu Mius iconic Frame bag gets a leather update thisseason, in nappa matelasse. The matelasse, is oneof the brands iconic material, where the leather isweaved and stitched to yield a quilted appearance.

The bag is available in two different sizes, withremovable chain strap and is presented in fun pastel

hues for its debut collection. Now available at MiuMiu, Villaggio Mall. Price upon request.

GOLD BEADED HAND OF FATIMAFROM CRUCIANI C

The favourite symbol of the Arab world gets anotherupdate from jeweller Cruciani C who has released alimited edition Gold bracelet featuring 18 carat gold

beads interlaced between the symbolic hands. Only500 pieces of these bracelets are available, 175 of whichwill be sold in Dubai. The bracelet comes in 10 differentcolours, all chosen to highlight the shine of the goldbeads. Available for QR2,000 from Cruciani boutiquesin BurJuman, The Dubai Mall and crucianibracelets.ae

AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

TEAM HIRST

You might or might not have been to the highlyprolific Damien Hirst exhibition, Relics, at AlRiwaq

yet, but get into the hype with this trending tee fromLPD New York. The tee, available in white, carriesHirsts last name and his year of birth, and is partof the Artist series from LPDs collection of teesthat has captured fashionistas over the past year.

LPD has produced tees carrying names of fashiondesigners along with their birth years and some

editions are also available in mesh jersey materials.Available for QR309 from www.lpdnyc.com


7/23

RAMI AL ALIS BRIDAL COLLECTION 2013

Brides to be can look out for a stunning fairytale collection from our favouritecouturier Rami Al Ali. The designer released eight special pieces in this

collection, maintaining his signature profile as streamline cuts dominate thecollection. Figure-hugging silhouettes give full focus to the natural femalecontours, while exquisite statement trains and full-length sleeves deliver an

element of drama. Veils come in the form of a dense-weaved organza bridal capewhile sheer lace is overlaid with handcrafted satin sequins. The collection is

available now from the Rami Al Ali showroom, Al Wasl Road, Jumeirah, Dubai.

PRADA GALLERIA BAG

Perhaps the most important feature we look for in bags these days arecompartments and pockets, a busy girl has got to keep her stuff in theright places! Pradas Galleria bag gets a functional yet stylish updatewith a front pocket that looks good enough to be a pouch on its own.

Made in matching shades of saffiano leather or in a two-tone version,the bags are def ined by pockets with either gold or steel locks.

THE FLOUNCY SKIRT

What every girl needs this fall is a skirtthat speaks volume, be it proportionate ornot. The ideal shape would b e the flouncyskirt that swirls as you move paired witha structured top. But dont stop yourselfthere, designers are experimenting with

flouncy skirts in dynamic shapes, be it

asymmetrical or dipped hem. Throw on aknee-length cover-up to match your skirtwith dainty heels and you ready for a GreatGatsbymeets Stepford Wives sartorial look!

Shop this Nina Ricci look at www.net-a-porter.com

FASHION /37


8/23

STEALTHE LOOK

TheTailored

What have we been saying about powerdressing for women? Not only does it NOTmake you look like a boy, but it heightensyour sense of sexiness with the dominant

aura that comes with sharp tailoring.

Fashion editor AnnaDello Russo in awhite Gucci customtuxedo with blacklapels and silk bowtie topped off withsome chic blackrimmed glasses atthe Gucci SS14presentation.

Fashion writer DenniElias in a tuxedo-

inspired jumpsuit atthe Sergio Rossi SS14

presentation.

NarcisoRodriguezTuxedo

Pantswww.farfetch.com,

QR3,986

LanvinTuxedoJumpsuit

www.match

esfashion.com,QR13,900

Marissa Webb Blouse with Black LeatherBowtie from www.marissa-webb.com,

QR2,165

Stella McCartneyTuxedo Jacket StellaMcCartney boutique,Porto Arabia, QR6,190

Valentino Jumpsuit Valentino boutique,

Villaggio Mall,QR12,740


9/23

TRENDS /39

Show It OffCut-outs and bandage dresses have been a mainstay forseveral seasons now, take a cue from Selena Gomez and

keep it wrapped in a tight bandage number.

Selena Gomezlooking allgrown-up andready for a nightout in thisVersaceensemble at theVersace SS14presentation.

The look is oneof the outfitspresented on

the catwalk ofVersaces SS14collection. Try

the look outnow before you

get the real dealnext spring.

Milano Crepe Skirt www.london-boutiques.com, QR1,557

Georgia Black Cut Out Bandage Croptop www.celebboutique.com, QR352

NCLA Mulholland Man Eater Nail Polish The Vanity Room, Porto Arabia, QR80


10/23


11/23

42 \ FASHION


12/23

42 \ FASHION

ISABLE MARANT AND H&M:

REBELLIOUSLYBALANCEDTHE SAYING PAINFULLY CHIC IS THE RIGHT WAY TO DESCRIBE

ISABEL MARANTS WORK. IT IS ONE OF THOSE STYLE MOMENTS

WHERE IT IS THOROUGHLY SIMPLE AND EFFORTLESS, YET

UNATTAINABLE TO THE REST OF THE WORLD WHO IS NOT FRENCH.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH


13/23

44 \ FASHION


14/23

44 \ FASHION

FASHION / 45


15/23

FASHION /45

Margareta Van den Bosch, H&MsCreative Advisor talks to GLAMabout the collaborative efforts andthe ongoing design inspirations forthe brand.It has been such exciting times as we look forward to H&M special collaborations everyseason. Why Isabel Marant for AW 2013?Isabel Marant is right for this moment we think. She is def initely a trendsetter. She wasone of the initiators of the whole boho/rock trend. We have been following her work fora while: her mix of masculine tailoring and bohemia, together with her take on ethnicdetailing will attract our customers. I am sure the collection will be a huge success.

How was the design process like working with Isabel Marant?As we always do with our guest designers, we gave Isabel total creative freedom in the

design of the collection and selection of the pieces she wanted to feature, which is anedit of her most beloved items, assembled into a wardrobe. We gave her all our help inorder to give life to the collection, in a smooth dialogue between her team and our team.

How has H&M benefitted from these different c ollaborations? In terms of creative direction,or the opportunity to explore different market segments?We see these collaborations as a benefit on different levels: for our customers, who aresurprised by new and exciting products enriching the global H&M offer; for us, as wehave dialogues with some of the most creative minds in the business; for the designers,

who are allowed the possibility to reach a wider audience. There is huge demand forthis kind of collaborations: since we started with Karl Lagerfeld over ten years ago,success has grown to sky level, both on the media and in the stores, way past our initialexpectations.

How do you find the balance between keeping prices affordable and yet present the fine touchof the design collaborations? Has this been a difficult process?We pride ourselves in bringing to our customers the best fashion at the best prices. Thisis actually one of our founding principles.

Youve had an exciting career with H&M thus far, what else would you like to fulfill from acreative perspective with this storied retailer?H&M keeps me creatively happy: from the collaborations to the shop openings to thefashion shows, there is always something new to work on. I am hap py to still be a part ofthis fantastic team.

48 \ FASHION


16/23

48 \ FASHION

RUNNING AS PART OF THE QATAR MUSEUM AUTHORITYS

CULTURAL YEAR PROGRAMME IN WHICH 2013 IS THE YEAR WITH

A UK SPOTLIGHT, THE FASHION EXCHANGE WAS ORGANISED

TO PROMOTE EMERGING AND ESTABLISHED DESIGNERS FROM

BOTH QATAR AND THE UK IN EACH OTHERS COUNTRIES.

T

he aim is to strengthenbilateral relations by cre-ating lasting partnershipsbetween institutions andindividuals through increas-ing cultural awareness and

understanding, foster collaborations and

spark new ideas between fashion designersand the audience. The idea, sparked offby Sheikha Raya Al Khalifa and FarheenAllsopp, took flight with the support ofthe QMA, the British Fashion Council, the

British embassy in Doha and Al RoudhaCenter. An inaugural September show tookplace in the exquisite Victoria & AlbertMuseum in London and the programmewill culminate in a special showcase in theMuseum of Islamic Arts, Qatar in Decem-ber. GLAM talks to Farheen Allsopp to

know more about this cultural and creativeexchange.

How do you think fashion can be a dialoguein cultural exchange between UK and Qatar?

Fashion is a hugely popular segment ofthe arts globally; I think with two diversecultures coming together, we havebeen able to look at the similarities anddifferences that shape our communities.Shared interests and individualsfeeling passionately about their cause

are great ways to engage with peopleinternationally. We were certain thatthe people of Qatar and the UK have acommon passion for style and fashion, andso far we have been proven right.

CULTURES MEET

FOCUS / 49


17/23

FOCUS /49

How did the first even t at the V&A go?It has been tremendous! We had a full

house and it was great to see the front rowfilled with abaya-clad women from Qatarand London! We showed traditional cloth-ing from the Gulf as garments of modesty,style and individual expression. The Lon-don audience was hugely enthusiastic andvery pleasantly surprised by the beauty ofabayas and jalabiyas.

Caroline Rush, CEO, The BritishFashion Council (BFC), has been very

supportive of this project and shesexcited that fashion is playing such apositive part in strengthening relationsbetween Qatar and the UK. As aresult of this collaboration the BFCis facilitating some exciting projectsthat we are planning in Qatar nextyear. Philip Treacy agreed after justone meeting to participate in London

because he wanted to push boundariesand show how diverse cultures canwork together.

Tell us a little bit more about the three Qataridesigners featured.The three Qatari designers, Fathiya AlJaber, Hessa Al Mannai and Elham AlAnsari, all have jobs and families and havestarted their design businesses in the past

few years. None of these women had everdreamed of showing their collections in aniconic venue like the V&A Museum, andthey were all thrilled! I think the inter-national collaborations gave them more

insight into international professionalstandards.

Having experienced the exhilaration andmotivation that comes from being appre-ciated by a new audience in a differentcountry and culture, it can only be goodfor the designers confidence inspiringthem to achieve new heights. The supportand training these women receive fromthe Roudha Center will help them build

strong, sustainable fashion businesses.

Can you give us a little sneak peek into whatthe main event in December will be like?All I can say at this stage is that you canexpect some exciting names from London

Fashion Week! We are planning a combi-nation of fashion and trunk shows so thatthe audience can see the clothes up close.The entertainment standards will be veryhigh, as you would expect for the UK with

its very sophisticated fashion industry.The British designers coming to Qatar

are really excited to share their knowledgewith emerging Qatari designers as well asoffering internships in London. We have

generated interest from a few corpora-tions who will sponsor the local designers,which is in keeping with the spirit of theQatar UK 2013 Year of Culture. R aya andI are thrilled that Fashion Exchange isplaying such a positive part in the QatarUK 2013 Year of Culture initiative!

There has been a recent out lash in the UK,politically and socially, over the traditional

garment of abaya and niqab, how do youthink we can continue to break down stereo-types and misconceptions?As someone who moved to London fromIndia, I know that the UK is overwhelming-ly a tolerant, multicultural society. Therehas been a huge rise in numbers of womenwearing abayas and niqabs in the last tenyears and altogether this has been readily

accepted. Abayas are a common sight inLondon. People in other countries often donot understand that the abaya is a tradi-tional garment women choose to wear,rather than being a compulsory require-ment of the Islamic faith. With FashionExchange we introduced the abaya as amore mainstream piece of clothing, just

like kimonos and sarees.Elham Al Ansari wears a niqab and when

she went on stage for her final bow at theV&A, she received thunderous applause.We can only break down barriers and over-come misconceptions when we understand

and are willing to accept different points ofview. We hope to facilitate such develop-ment of understanding. I believe we madea great start in changing perceptions atThe September Show in L ondon.

The British designers coming toQatar are really excited to sharetheir knowledge with emergingQatari designers as well as offering

internships in London.


18/23

HERITAGE / 55


19/23

HERITAGE /55


20/23

Clockwise from top left, Paul Smith boutique inLondon, early portrait of Paul, Paul in his first ever

boutique, Paul Smith boutique in Tokyo, andboutiques in korea andLos Angeles.

HERITAGE /57


21/23

HELLO,MY NAME ISPAUL SMITHPaul Smiths first shop in Byard Lane,Nottingham, which measured 3m x 3m, will

be recreated in the exhibition alongside animmersive digital room rich in still and movingimage. Thoughts narrated by Paul himself andsounds will place you in the mind of thedesigner. The exhibition will include arecreation of Pauls personal office, containinga myriad of books and objects that are acontinual source of inspiration. Projections,audio and film clips from fashion shows andbehind-the-scenes will reveal the innerworkings and inluences of the Paul Smithbrand. Showcasing a selection of jewellery,books, art and antiques that compliment the

clothing collections, every Paul Smith shop isunique and will also be explored in theexhibition. Looking at the impressive scale ofits global operation today, the exhibition willdraw on Paul Smiths personal archive, fromthe companys beginnings in Nottingham toits international prominence today. Theexhibition will explore how Paul Smithsintuitive take on design, together with anunderstanding of the roles of designer andretailer, have laid the foundations for thecompanys lasting success and offer a uniqueinsight into the magnificent mind of PaulSmith. The exhibition will showcase andcelebrate the brand through collectionsselected by Paul. The different stages ofdesign and production will be explored,offering a rich insight into his design processand highlighting how the principles oftraditional craftsmanship of tailoring andtechniques are retained but given acontemporary edge. From humble beginningsin a Paris hotel suite in 1976, the companynow shows seasonally in London and Parisfashion weeks and includes fourteen different

collections. As a result, and in spite of itsscale, Paul Smith has retained somethingunique, a personal touch. The exhibition startsNovember 15 and will run until March 9 2014.

All images courtesy of Design Museum, LondonBackstage images of SS14 courtesy Paul Smith

/


22/23

The quintessential British luxury accessories houseAsprey was part of the Qatar UK 2013 FashionExchange, showcasing its collection alongsideabayas and jalabiyas designed by Qatari designers.GLAM chats with the CEO of Asprey, PaddyByng on the importance of craftsmanship and the

preservation of art in its workshops.

Tell us about the unique set up of the craftsman workshop of Asprey.We are one of the only luxury brands to still house our jewellery,

silver and leather workshops above the flagship London store,where much of our bespoke work is done. We also offer anengraving and embossing service on site.

How are the artisans hired? Are they trained in-house or hired with

prior experience and qualifications?Our artisans are hired in a variety of ways. Many of our craftsmenwere taken on by Asprey at the start of their career and trainedas apprentices from an early age; they then tend to stay on thebench for many years. We have recently celebrated with one ofour silversmiths who have been with Asprey for three and halfdecades this year.

We have also advertised through the Goldsmith Hall in thepast, (the Goldsmiths Hall was established as a guild for policingthe goldsmith trade. Members of the company comprise of men

and women engaged in the trade including silversmiths andjewellers).

What are some efforts by Asprey to preserve the skill sets of artisans inthis trade?

ASPREY

THE ART OFWORKMANSHIP

FOCUS /59


23/23

We actively maintain some of the more traditional techniques,especially those we still do by hand to an incredibly high standardwhich may take more time, but cer tainly preserves the uniquefinish of our pieces. For example; in our silver workshops we haveitems hand raised by hammer rather than spun, and in jewellerywe still make collets by hand from wire rather than buy a casting.

There is a general consensus that craftsmanship is slowly disappearing.What do you feel can be done?The Silver trade has certainly reduced, there are not so many

large firms around today, however leather and jewellerycraftsmanship continues at a steady pace. We will continue tosupport this trade by employing and training apprentices to teachthem the craft and the importance of these skills, which are stillso sought after in our products.

Where do you see the future of bespoke leather and jewellery if nobodyis willing to learn the crafts?We have actually noticed an increase in orders for bespokeitems here at Asprey from our clients; increasingly looking forsomething unique across many of our product categories. As thisdemand grows the future of bespoke is looking positive, however,the industry only seems to be slower in the silver trade not injewellery or leather. Retaining our artisans here at Asprey remainskey and supporting new talent looking for apprenticeships. Thereare definitely young people that are eager to learn and invest their

time in this unique trade.

Asprey is available at Copia VIP Office, Dubai and www.asprey.com

Cigarette Clutch in Lapis, QR42,000

The Ritz Clutch in Metallic, QR39,000

The Wiltshire, QR100,600

The Wiltshire in Ostrich, QR35,000

my works in GLAM November 2013

Documents

Transcript of my works in GLAM November 2013