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LOOKSWonder Women

FEATURESalon Décor, Design and Equipment

INTERVIEWSDavid Gillson

N° 19/12 EDITION

cover layout19.indd 1 2012/08/21 12:48 PM

Katy Perry for ghd. Call 0860 109 366 for more information. ghd V gold now available in the finest salons and ghdhair.com

AW821_SA gold_Katy DPS Estetica Africa.indd All Pages 08/08/2012 15:25

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 00Katy Perry for ghd. Call 0860 109 366 for more information. ghd V gold now available in the finest salons and ghdhair.com

AW821_SA gold_Katy DPS Estetica Africa.indd All Pages 08/08/2012 15:25

For more information about Dualsenses Green True Color, contact your Goldwell representative or phone 011 312 5070 (JHB), 012 551 3010 (CT), or 031 566 5765 (DBN) | www.goldwell.com

INNOVATION

SEE THE DIFFERENCE. FEEL THE DIFFERENCE. MAKE THE DIFFERENCE.INGREDIENTS FROM 100% CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTION.

Dualsenses Green True Color

E D I T O R I A L

FOREVER, VIDAL!The passing of hairstyling legend, Vidal Sassoon, marked a sad day for the hairdressing industry. A living legend for as long as he was with us and unforgettable now that he looks down upon us from above. Vidal Sassoon was credited with creating a simple geometric, ‘Bauhaus-inspired’ hairstyle, also called the wedge bob.

His style and popularity allowed him to open the first chain of worldwide hair styling salons.Unfortunately his illness got the better of him. Last February, on Facebook, his message reached fans worldwide: “Life is precious and I’m enjoying every moment of it. Every moment of it”. The world of hairdressing, and others, have flooded the web with images, memories, dedications and thoughts. ESTETICA SA has dedicated this edition to the late legend and included a tribute, pages 39-45, to honour his legacy. Hairstylists from around the world share their special moments, stories and experiences of working, meeting or being inspired by him. Another must-read in this edition is the Salon Décor, Design and Equipment feature on pages 87-107. Choosing the correct lighting, basins, chairs, décor and trying to maximise your space when designing a salon is no small task. In this feature, ESTETICA SA addresses the important issues salon owners are faced with when designing or renovating a salon. Read up on exclusive interviews with top local stylists about conceptualising and designing a salon and the mistakes incurred along the way.Let us take inspiration from Vidal Sassoon’s lifes work and all he achieved by trying to implement his words as a motto in your salon: “If you don’t look good, we don’t look good!”

See Tribute to Vidal page 39

Cindy HortonEditor

Due to the popularity of his styles he was described as a craftsman who ‘changed the world with a pair of scissors’.

ed letter19.indd 3 2012/08/20 10:32 AM

Salon: Mahogany HairdressingHair: Colin Greaney, International

Creative DirectorColour: Tai Walker &

Michalla RyderPhotography: Andrew Ogilvy

Make-up: Rosie ScottClothes styling: Chloe Holland

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl,

Turin/Italy

Published byTopco Media

2nd Floor

Bree Street Studios

17 New Church Street

Cape Town

Ph: 086 000 9590

Fax: 021 423 7876

Email: info@estetica.co.za

Website: www.estetica.co.za

STAFFPublisher

Richard Fletcher

General ManagerVan Fletcher

EditorCindy Horton

Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton

DesignJayne Macé

Advertising & Business Development Manager

Lizel Jonker

Subscriptionsingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za

CONTRIBUTORSPrinters

Paarl Media Paarl

F A S H I O N

8 Catwalks Dream Journeys

12 Catwalks Cape Town Fashion Week

14 History Olympic Looks

18 Campaign Iconic Decades

20 Looks Wonder Women

24 Interiors Over the Rainbow

27 Beauty Women

29 Beauty Men

30 Trends Easily Gorgeous

34 Vision Holy Chic

C O N T E N TESTETICA FASHION N°. 19/12 – NINETEENTH EDITION 2012

Androgyynous styles contradict soft pastel tones and innocent side parting for an ethereal texture.

contents 19.indd 2 2012/08/20 9:17 AM

M O D A : I N T E R N A T I O N A L T R E N D S

39 Vidal Sassoon Tribute

46 Looking Good

50 Living Colour

54 Urban Vibe

58 The College Way

62 Fashion Notes

66 Before the Storm

70 Rebel Rebel

74 Deep Inspired

78 Warrior Glam

82 Movie Divas

P R O F E S S I O N A L

87 Feature Salon Décor, Design and Equipment

88 Dossier Salon Feng Shui

92 Retail Boosting Aftercare

98 Interview Shelene Shaer

100 Interview Frank Fowden

102 Interview David Gillson

104 Survey Tooling Around

108 Advertorial Sharplines

109 Event Masked Launch

110 Event Styling Champs

112 Focus Reality Shoots

114 Agenda Calendar

119 Advertorial no!no!

120 News Report

124 Products Reviews

127 Subscriptions

128 Stockists

ESTETICA FASHION N°. 19/12 – NINETEENTH EDITION 2012

Everything seems fairly-like. Even the hair, first scraped with pink, then enchained by unruly, slighty hippy waves.

contents 19.indd 3 2012/08/20 9:18 AM

KNY’s fall collection may have been “inspired by the Beat Generation” but the look was quintessentially 21st century New York.

Tailoring with leather trims worn with narrow creased trousers, flirty leather skirts and dark floral prints added to the hard-edged refinement. “The DKNY collection is always a great barometer of New York style,” says Eugene Souleiman, WELLA Global Creative Director who completed the forecast with a base of glossy, pin straight hair, deeply side-parted and drawn into low ponytails. To complement the collection’s clean shapes, says Souleiman, “We gave the hair very straight edges and kept it flat to the head, for a small silhouette.” Peter Som delivered a collection filled with sex appeal and strong, strict shapes for confident women. The subtle reveal of sheer banded organza dresses juxtaposed sculptural jackets and tops with exaggerated drop shoulders worn with body hugging bottoms. “I wanted a precision and crispness,” explains Som. “Everyone wants to feel strong and sexy.” The tension between sex appeal and restraint was evident in Souleiman’s side parted styles. Long hair was made small and sleek at the crown and sides and moved into a textured and wild fullness at the ends. Ponytails were sleek to the head with full tails. Som’s message: strong shapes for strong women. At Jeremy Scott, the models wore sweat suits and body con dresses and leggings printed with computer screens and IM emoticons. The plot? That the present is the past is the present. Since style is a mash-up of new and old imagery that’s filtered through a Google search, you might as well throw on a candy coloured print and get on with your day. “I was inspired by 3D, geometry and technology. I wanted the girls to look like their own computer Avatars,” says Soueliman. The result: wigs cut with hyper sharp edges, short bangs and flouro-bright splashes of colour that enhanced the multi–hued palette of Scott’s collection.

Dream Journeys

D

Sharp tailoring and leather trims make for sleek and sexy looks.

Nomadic journeys and Judy Garland are just a few of the things inspiring New York designers for Fall. Abandon yourself to your alter-ego. Experiment with a new you. by Kendall Farr

DK

NY

Pete

r Som

Jere

my

Scot

t

Bright and sparkling with

wildly coloured hair or rigid black with

slicked-backhair and bushy

ponytails. The only rule is there are

no rules.

c a t w a l k s

Dream Journeys Wella artists came up with

absolute contrast for very different collections. From sleek heads and wild ponytails for strong women, highlighting the tension between sex appeal and restraint.

Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo

Wild wigs with blunt cuts and fluorescent colours

matched the other-worldly and more whimsical looks

by Jeremy Scott.

Photos for Peter Som backstage: Gerardo Somoza

Jere

my

Scot

t

DK

NY

Jere

my

Scot

t

Pete

r Som

photooniPad

E S T E T I C A S O U t H A F R I C A | 9

Chr

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Mara Hoffman

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Mar

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Vivi

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Tam

4D journeysAccording to designer Chris Benz “women have come back around to the art of dressing up” as they did in the late 50s and 60s. His muse? His mother as he remembers her getting dressed while watching Judy Garland on television, inspiring the shirtdresses with prim bows, cigarette pants and sweater girl cardigans he showed on the runway. To interpret his theme, TIGI’S Nick Irwin started with acrylic wigs he transformed into deconstructed beehives, perfect for the modern girl who wants to go clubbing in a bouffant update. Mysticism inspires Mara Hoffman to create breezy shapes in her signature screen-prints - this time around with meteorite patterns and tapestry motifs. Wide brimmed Gaucho hats worn over headscarves advanced the southwestern look. Imagining the ‘shaman cowboys’ that inspired the clothes, Irwin center-parted the hair and hand coiled it into tight pin curls. Then, back brushing the coils created the kind of big, Bohemian-looking curl a girl can only get after a wild horse ride through the desert. Vivienne Tam’s designs reference an eclectic mix of textures and patterns and for fall, her outerwear in carpet prints worn over jewel toned, satin evening looks were all inspired by an adventuress on a Mongolian journey. To capture her nomad spirit, Irwin designed a style with a deep center part, straightened from root to jaw line. Back-brushing the hair from jaw line to ends created a windblown texture and a statement–making volume. “It perfectly captured the east-meets-west spirit of the collection,” he adds.So this Fall, we’ll dress up to embrace our inner 60s-era housewife (again). We’ll wear pieces inspired by desert-dwelling ‘Shaman Gauchos’ and glamorous-looking nomads climbing in the Himalayas. One cohesive trend emerged: anything goes. What helps define the look of a fashion collection however, is hairstyling, that unifies the designer’s narrative with the silhouettes and the teams from WELLA and TIGI worked styling magic for many of the week’s hottest shows creating directional looks worth imitating.

Channel your innerJudy Garland and take a journey to a far-off land.

C A T W A L K S

Time travel and globalism inspiredthe TIGI team to create eclecticcoifs for three very different shows. Deconstructed vintage, futuristic Bohemian, and east-meets-west.

Vivi

enne

Tam

Feth

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on

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11

fashion week USA 2 12.indd 5 2012/08/20 12:15 PM

nternational hair fashion brand ghd ensured all models were styled to perfection at the recent Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town

(MBFWCT), following the announcement of their three year partnership with AFI. Jennifer Chatburn, ghd Regional Educator and one of the lead stylists at MBFWCT, says the traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback for Spring/Summer 2013. “This classic was reinterpreted by keeping it sleek, adding defined twists, twirling the pony into a chignon very low down in the neck or creating messy curls to add volume and texture.” To get the Rosenworth and Philosophy look, section and curl the hair with a ghd Gold Classic styler using large sections which have been prepared using ghd Style Curl Hold Spray. Soften the curls by turning the head upside-down and shaking out the curls, pulling your fingers through the hair. Create the ponytail by softly twisting four sections together and fastening loosely, keeping the ponytail soft and low. Pull out a few pieces to make the look slightly messy, gently rouging the pony and securing with ghd Style Final Fix Hairspray. This look was tweaked for the Selfi, August and Black Coal shows by adding a more defined twist on the side. “Other trends coming through on the catwalk for Craig Port and Thula Sindi were strong, combed out waves rather than curls as well as a new age version of the 60s beehive for Michelle Ludek,” says Shawn Nicholas, Co-Owner of Synergy Hair Intercoiffure. “This look added volume to the sides rather than the top, refreshing the style and giving it an updated feel. Fishtail plaits were seen at the Lalesso show while the classic bob for KlûK CGDT owed its volume and staying power to the new ghd salon strength hair dryer, ghd air.”

Catwalk

TrendsI

Hairstylists from ghd styled up a storm at this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town. Ponytails, soft waves and

fishtail plaits set the trend for the summer season.

The traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback.

Selfi

Ros

enw

erth

Philo

soph

y

fashion week ct 19.indd 2 2012/08/20 12:03 PM

C A T W A L K S

Pete

r Jen

sen

The traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13

ghd stylists created romantically inspired hairstyles. Soft curls and low ponytails featured in most shows.

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Catwalk photos: SDR Photography

fashion week ct 19.indd 3 2012/08/20 12:03 PM

Olympic

looks One hundred years of Olympics have marked the history of sport, revealing an evolution in looks. In thesephotos we can see how customs have changed.

1908LONDONDanish gymnast

Iconic AthletesSport, energy, strength. All alpha-male elements. But also all good

reasons for women in the early twentieth century to get keen on athleticism. Relying on their own

strength in their own work and demonstrating this strength in their

look. Shorter hair for practical reasons but also a sign of a new femininity, all-conscious and free.

1908LONDON

Danish gymnasts

1928AMSTERDAM

Martha Norelius, Olympic Gold

400m Freestyle1924PARIS

Florence Chambers

1912STOCKHOLM

R. D. Clarke and Craig Moore

1936BERLINSwimming champions: K. Rawls, M. Hoerger Champion Diver, L. Kight and E. Kompa

1936BERLINJack Lovelock, Gold Medal for the 1 500 metres

14 | E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

olimpiadi USA 2 12 (4 pp).indd 2 2012/08/20 10:33 AM

1940TokyoThe Games were cancelled and did not go to Tokyo until 1964

1948Londonolympics opening Ceremony

H I S T O r Y

1936BerLinFour American athletes

1948London

Back row: P. H. A. rennard, d. Smith and d. Hay. Front row: coach Pollard,

C. Bell and i. Hurst

1968MexiCo CiTyUS sprinter John Carlos

1968GrenoBLe

American figure skater Peggy Fleming,

Gold Medal

1964TokyoVera Caslavska, Gold Medal in the individual Beam Competition, T. Manina and L. Latynina

photooniPad

1924CHAMonix

Herma Planck-Szabo, Women’s Figure

Skating Gold Medal

1968MexiCo CiTyCzech Vera Caslavska on the beam. She won four Gold Medals

1996AtlAntAJamie Baulch in action in the 4x400m

Athletes and Olympics. Icons in globalevolution, from the early twentieth century to the present day: an unusual collective view.

This desire for short hair became less intense as time went on,

giving way to neat waves in the Fifties, irregular updo’s in the

Sixties, right up to the totally free Afro-pride of the early Seventies. It

wasn’t till the Nineties that more unequivocal hairstyles arrived –

showing how an athlete is also a person, even more, a celebrity.

Hair-fashion compensates for the imposition of standardised outfits.

Sport goes glam.

1976InnsBruck

Dorothy Hamill in the center,

Gold Medal skating competition

1996AtlAntA

the usA 4x100 relay team, Gold Medal

1984lOs AnGeles

carl lewis,Gold Medal Men’s

long Jump

1976MOntreAl

nadia comaneci on the balance beam,

three Gold Medals

1976MOntreAl

D. nightingale, A. Parker, A. Archibald and s. J.

Fox, Gold Medal in the Modern Pentathlon

2000SydneyAudley Harrison, Gold in the Men’s 91kg Boxing

H I S T O r Y

2000Sydney

M. Raquil with J. Baulch, Men’s

4x400m Relay Final

2008BeiJinG

Melaine Walker, Gold for the Women’s

400m Hurdles

2012London oLyMpicSWho will be the olympics look icon this summer?

1996AtLAntA

Gail devers, Women’s 100m Heats

1996AtLAntAeunice Barber

2000Sydney

Marion Jones, Women’s 100m Heats

2004AtHenSphillips idowu, Men’s triple Jump

2004AtHenSMatthew elias, Men’s 4x400m Relay Final

Phot

os: G

etty

Imag

es

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17

ay-Ban Legends tells the history and the spirit of 75 years of Never Hide: the courage to be yourself and freely express your beliefs

and personality. Shot by photographer Mark Seliger in California at the end of January, the campaign frames seven legendary moments (one per decade), each inspired by a real life and particularly iconoclastic figure. “My first pair of sunglasses was Ray-Bans. So when they approached me to shoot the 75th anniversary campaign, it seemed like the ultimate creative dream,” says Mark. “It was one of those opportunities that don’t come around too often, and I really enjoyed being a part of the creative team. Our Creative Director Erik Vervroegen proposed scenarios that were photographic, iconic, controversial and fun, and it seemed like the perfect fit for what I

do and what the Ray-Ban brand represents,” continues Mark.In keeping with the Never Hide spirit, the seven figures unconsciously broke through barriers; their eyes were open while the world’s were closed. A group of pilots, the Blue Devils, in the 1930s; a writer’s ‘relationship’ in the heart of America in the 1940s; a singer songwriter who worked with Elvis Presley in the 1950s; an English socialite in the 1960s; a boy and girl falling in love during a protest in the 1970s; the nightlife of three girls in the 1980s, and a courageous rapper in the 1990s. Ray-Ban was awarded with two Gold Lions at the Cannes Lions 59th International Festival of Creativity 2012 in the Press Lions category in the sections Clothing, Footwear and Accessories and Photography for the Ray-Ban Legends Communication Campaign.

Iconic

DecadesR

Ray-Ban celebrates their 75th anniversary with a legendary campaign. Seven photographs capture iconic

moments in time, inspired by ordinary people.

18 | E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

C A M P A I G N

Icons and legends of the past, present and future: this is the key message of Ray-Ban Legends.