Editd Nyfw Fall 2015 Report

NEW YORKFASHION WEEKFALL 2015

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This report reveals the key trends from New York Fashion Week Fall 2015. We have analyzed every garment shown on the weeks runways to identify the themes, colors, fabrics, prints and shapes which will have the most commercial impact in Fall 2015. As the week drew to a close, we matched online buzz with commercial potential and identified New Yorks favorite designers.

These are the top trends, representing the biggest potential for retailers and fashion businesses in the coming season.

Marc Jacobs closing show on Thursday night sealed the deal, earning him enough online mentions to take the lead ahead of Oscar de la Renta, and the newbie there, Peter Copping. The level of detail which went into Jacobs collection meant hed more than earned the award of New York Fashion Weeks most talked about designer. With his knack for flinging varied references into a collection and creating magic, this season was part-Edwardian in black lace floor length skirts, part-40s in floral full skirts, twin sets and over-elbow gloves, and part-70s with Peter Pan collars and v-necked tank tops. There were bondage elements with straps across body, sheer tulle peeking beneath tunics, thigh-high leather boots. There was plaid and tweed - some deconstructed in painterly daubs. There were skunk fur jackets,

DESIGNERS

KANYE X ADIDAS ORIGINALS

MARC JACOBS

coats and capes and buttons. But the real standout was the shimmer - the sequins, jewels and embellishment which adorned everything and made an excellent use of the front rows latest tool: slow motion iPhone 6 videos, swiftly uploaded to Instagram.

Of course, that wasnt the brands only show, though Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley man the decks at Marc by Marc Jacobs. This season, the brand showed a feminist army in William Morris prints. In berets, punky tartan and utility pockets, with floor skirts and covered in studs, this was where the brands younger supporters could find their in. An all-round strong season from Team Jacobs.

The fashion industry may have good cause to question Mr Wests design credentials. The fella may not know his way around a sewing machine, but his industry impact cannot be denied. If truly viewed as the designer of his collaboration with Adidas Originals, then he is the weeks most talked about designer. Of course, much of that online buzz is derived from his part-time job in music and his spotlight-friendly family, but his visibility does put him in a position to shift consumer tastes on a global scale. So what of the clothes? They were militant - some overtly, like the oversized army issue sweaters, and others with subtle hints, like a flak jacket vest and camo print. It was genderless and uniform in a muted palette - items designed for wearing with a hangover, or while serving time. While that might not steer an entire industry, the Yeezy Boost sneakers will have retailers standing to attention.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Report | www.editd.com

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NEW YORKS COLOR PALETTE

Fall 2015s palette has marked an about-turn in the proceedings of the last few seasons. Gone are the wealth of oranges, tangerines and bright yellows of Fall 2014. The array of pinks, including bright bubblegum from Spring 2015 have pared right back, and mint has disappeared altogether. Instead, Fall designers took a cool, calm and collected turn, with earthy tones in russet, fudge, moss

All black, everything. There was a hardcore movement amongst a number of designers to abandon color. At Diesel, Black Gold the gold was eschewed, replaced with d-rings, bondage detailing, pleats, zips and more hardware all in noir. Alexander Wangs leather, paired with velvet was trimmed in metal chain, the nipped waists cinched with double-breasted fastenings and bib-shaped necks hinted at armour. Vera Wangs midnight hour came in boxy and mannish forms, with drawstring waists, uneven straps, more d-rings and overlong sleeves. She

NYFWFALL 2015

and mushroom. Greys, black and navies spoke clearly of the level-headed season ahead - where the functionality of weather-proof clothing took priority over frippery. That doesnt mean Fall is devoid of color with impact - when color was used, it was in saturated, rich pops of mustard, deep plum and the most drinkable of reds.

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worked the trend towards evening with bewitching, but simple velvet gowns. Donna Karans take on black came in suiting, with tuxedo styling and uneven layers and Thom Brownes darkly sombre collection was fit for a mafia funeral. It cant be argued that black is what we wear. Yet, it felt more defiant than just serving to the customer. This is battle armour, and the war cry is that luxury doesnt have to rely on the shimmering and the loud to stand out.

BLACKOUT

The runways were a true reflection of the sidewalks this season as temperatures in New York kept snow piled on street corners and required show goers to get clever with thermal layers. Those made the cacophony of furs and the acre upon acre of knitwear seem more tempting than ever. Certainly, these were clothes made by New Yorkers, for New Yorkers. What constitutes the frozen trend for Fall 2015? Parkas - fur lined, printed, quilted, colorful or colorless - they were everywhere: at Rodarte, Band of Outsiders, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Victor Alfaro. Fur, too, was one of the biggest buzz creators during the week. Designers swaddled their models in patchworked fur coats, in fox fur stoles, and in cropped jackets and long

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scarves. While every shade imaginable was on offer, more designers plumped for natural colorings, often patchworking different shades, or combining with leather. Coachs leather bikers were spliced with shearling. They looked hard and sturdy; armour ready for the fight against the big chill. Duvet coats and blown-up quilting, though softer in form, were no less serious in the cold mission.Layering was everywhere. From the biker jackets, t-shirts and double skirt layers at a grungy 3.1 Phillip Lim, to Rag & Bones fine layered tees, skirts over trousers and double coats - more is definitely more. Many designers took things full-comfort with entire knit ensembles at Rebecca Minkoff, Hellessy and appropriately, Creatures of Comforts floor length chenille.

THEMES

Spring 2015 has paved the way for the 70s trend - warming up consumers retro appreciation and shaping tastes for wider fits and heavily vintage accessories. With knee high boots, suede fringing, A-line skirts and flared denim currently flying out of stores, retailers will revel in the 70s theme for Fall 2015 and consumer demand will be primed by the time the latest offerings arrive in store. How does Fall move the story forwards? There were two clear strains of the 70s trend on New York runways. The first was taking its inspiration from the hedonistic 70s; rock n roll and glamour. Think Patti Smith night-time insouciance or Studio 64 glitter. There were sequinned party numbers (at Rodarte) and lurex: striped at Jill Stuart and knitted at Ohne Titel. The second inspiration for the 70s trend doesnt feel so novelty, but could have a longer-term impact on the clothes consumers want to buy. J.Crew, Tome, Altuzarra, Tory Burch and Derek Lam are just a few

of the designers who have taken the more louche aspects of 70s clothing and reworked them into elegant, non-prissy contemporary looks. On the runway dominated slim, but not skinny-cut, tailored flares, silken pussy bow blouses and suede used in a way that doesnt look fusty or too retrospective. Key pieces here will be mule shoes, flares, turtlenecks, wide culottes, capes and denim.

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GARMENTS

JUMPSUITS

Parkas were popular on the runway, and are hugely popular in retail currently - they will be foolproof for the new season. But those wishing to push forward into newer trend territory should look to cape coats for an innovative injection. Josie Natori, Red Valentino and Milly put actual capes on the runway, but many designers used worked cape shapes into a coat hybrid. Lacostes Tenenbaum influenced collection and Michael Kors thirties sensibility included mannish woollen coats, with slashed sleeves that hinted at the casualness of a coat flung over shoulders, but without the chill factor. Tommy Hilfiger and Libertine both sent out traffic-stopping red cape coats - Libertines belted and Hilfigers sleeved. From the commercial perspective, capes brilliantly align with the layering trend. They work well in attention-grabbing styling and encourage consumers to add in extra warmth layers.

TURTLE NECKS

Jump around! instructed House of Pain and New Yorks designers for Fall 2015. Be that in short-sleeved forms with Red Valentinos floral number or in denim by Frame, Sea and Rachel Antonoff. Things got slinkier in Diane Von Furstenburgs polka 70s throwback, more formal in Prabal Gurungs tuxedo styling and sublimely streamlined at Narciso Roderiguez. Consumers have responded well to dungarees and all in ones and therefore working these jumpsuits into Falls assortments will be easy. Utilitarian styling, with boxy cuts and workwear details are one option, and silk evening wear cuts another. Of course, with the seasons penchant for denim, itd be wise to experiment with this.

Turtleneck tops and sweaters are critical to Fall 2015, and thats a good thing, because theyre already selling well - consistently selling out quickly through Fall 2014. In September 2014, new arrivals of turtlenecks were up by 58% compared to September 2013. They were all over the Fall runways, layered beneath blazers, jumpsuits, strappy dresses and pinafores at Thakoon, Sea, Tanya Taylor and Zimmermann. J. Crew built them into slouchy sweaters worn with wide, wide pants, while Proenza Schoulers clingy and revealing slashed knit dresses retained some modesty with long sleeves and turtlenecks. More dramatic forms were created in knitted roll neck sweaters at Frame, Edun and Richard Chai, as well as exaggerated funnel necks at DKNY. Tomes narrow snoods gave the impression of a turtleneck, yet still allowed for plunging necklines - an unusual take.

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FABRICS

PATCHWORK

Wide trousers are on the increase, but as denim retailers scramble to fight off the athletic trend detracting from their jeans sales, designers responded by putting flares on the runway. Flares were seen at Karen Walker, Wes Gordon and Tommy Hilfiger in a 70s air. New arrivals of flared jeans in retail grew by 173% in January 2015, compared to January 2013 - outstripping the skinny jean growth rate by 107%. At Marc by Marc Jacobs, denim was spliced with floral prints, emblazoned with slogans and styled with bumbags. But it wasnt only in jeans that designers were utilizing denim. The fabric sprung up in all over looks, wackily at VFiles Julia Seeman and in a raw-edged grey denim suit at 3.1 Phillip Lim. We expect denims presence to continue through the months shows - such is the fabrics elevated status right now. Alexander Wang agrees - his sole concession to color in an entirely black collection were a pair of flocked denim jeans.

The patchworked trend partially lends itself to the 70s theme - thats the way Diane Von Furstenberg used it in homespun and haphazard knitwear tunic dresses and sweaters in beige, black and white, and Tory Burch in suede with sewing class topstitching. At Tracy Reese, Coach and Carolina Herrera, fur was patched in with leather, jacquards and nylons - moving far away from the do-it-yourself look. The simpler pieces were perhaps best we liked the earthy tones and gradations at Thakoon and the contemporary-looking suede and leather splicing at Edun. Designer patchworking is wise - retailers would struggle to mimic the finesse and form in the cacophony of fabrics on display.

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PRINTS

STRIPES

Plaid returned in force for Fall 2015. In Prince of Wales, it contributed to the grey suiting seen across the week and building into the androgynous story. In tartan, the print in red became midi skirts at Rachel Antonoff and Kate Spade. Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip Lim both used red plaids to create a uniform, almost military look in their boyish collections and although the theme at Marc by Marc Jacobs was feminist, it packed just as much, if not more, fighting spirit. Although Altuzarra for one used plaid in pants, designers will see the most bang for their buck using this print in tweedy outerwear and strong plaid jackets.

FOLKLORE

Why do stripes keep returning to runways? Because they sell. 44% of all womens striped patterns currently retailing are within the luxury and premium market and the print sees less discounting than plaids and florals. Designers have fed into this sweet spot for Fall 2015, fitting it into both the 1970s theme and also using it as a vehicle for oh-so-now androgyny. Theres no need to play it safe though, as Yigal Azrouel demonstrated with a striped placement print running down one side of a suit, and across the cuff and body, that felt fresh and rebellious. Tome and Lisa Perry played with alternating panels, while Lacostes bias cut striped fabrics wound their way loosely around the wearer.

Its not often that an entirely new direction comes to the print table in force, but many designers got behind the folksily whimsical this season, and it was a success. Giving the air of well-travelled, if not of this world, folklorish prints were a relief from all the practicality and uniform at New York Fashion Week. There were storybook mirrored prints at Honor, in striking monochrome, which bore a deer motif. Josie Natoris etched scrawls, also monochromatic, adorned flared skirts and car coats. At Veronica Beard, theres mileage in the Russian-looking embroidered placements, which could so easily be turned into repeats or digitalized. The same was true at Tory Burch, where sublime Moroccan prints were utterly covetable - she was totally on the money.

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DETAILS

FUR STOLES

Fringing has been a trend for the last two seasons, so it may come as a surprise that designers backed it so heavily for Fall 2015. However, in a bid to thrill customers with exciting textures, fringing is a more versatile and affordable resource than fur or shearling. And texture is in big demand after so long subscribing to the sleek and streamlined rules of sports luxe. So, stay with it and befriend fringing for another season - let it trim the length of knee high boots, run across the shoulders of oversized biker jackets and peep from the hemlines of skirts. J.Crews pink suede pencil skirt with fringed trim will be a retail superstar and theres plenty of newness to be found in Rachel Comey, Ralph Lauren and Tess Gibersons shaggy biscuit colored knits.

It was impossible to miss the number of fur stoles slung across models bodies this season. From left hip, over right shoulder, there were fox furs at Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Creatures of the Wind, Jason Wu, Thakoon and 3.1 Phillip Lim. Any retailer reading this should act now - thats a powerful endorsement from New York! The stole adds luxury, without the expense of a full fur coat - a smart move to broaden customer appeal in difficult times. And of course, with such clever faux furs and fun colors on the market, any retailer and consumer can get involved in the styling fun!

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