Cosmoprof features ZSS – as reported WWD

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July 21, 2015

By Faye Brookman

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VIEW SLIDESHOWBeauty products from Korea were among the itemspresented at Cosmoprof.Vanessa Stump

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Cosmoprof’s Agenda: Squeeze Out MoreSalesLAS VEGAS — Building thebasket.

Rather than battle over consumers, the salonand retail industries are each focusing ongetting the most out of their clientele while theyare in their salons, online or in a retail door.

Realizing the consumer is in the driver’s seatand buys when and where she desires, attendeesat last week’s Cosmoprof North Americameeting, held at the Mandalay Bay ConventionCenter from July 11 through 14, hammered outstrategies to ring up more sales.

In the salon sector, that included better trainingand innovative products to provide tools sostylists can upsell. For retailers, it was the questfor unique products to lure shoppers to theirstores. And digital continues to expand inimportance, especially for hard-to-find items orreplenishment.

Organized by North American Beauty Events— a joint venture between the BolognaFiereGroup and the Professional Beauty Association— CPNA attracted 1,017 companies spreadacross a sold-out show floor spanning more than230,000 square feet. The biggest gathering ofbeauty purveyors in the U.S. totaled 30,000attendees, a 10 percent incline over last year. Inaddition to salon professionals, retailers

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prowling for new items included Barney’s NewYork, Ulta Salon, Cosmetics & Fragrance Inc.,C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries, Apothia, DuaneReade Inc., HSN, Kohl’s Corp., PharmacaIntegrative Pharmacy, Amazon.com,Beauty.com, Beauty Bar and Murale. “DiscoverBeauty had a lot of innovations and interestingcompanies,” said Jeff Askenas, vice presidentand divisional merchandise manager for Kohl’sDepartment Stores.

Many of the indie product jewels wereuncovered in the Discover Beauty andSpotlights area populated with about 50 up-and-coming companies who also convened withretailers in “speed dating” style one on one meetings. Highlights included:

• Static Nails, the winner of the Discover Beauty award, and perhaps the most discussedexhibit. Created by Alexis Irene while she was in college, the glue-on nails are reusable,paintable and shapable. Some options are even adorned with Swarovski crystals making thema far cry from your mother’s artificial nails, said one buyer.

• Hey Honey, a skin-care line with premium honey extracts, vitamins A & E, sea-buckthorn oiland honeysuckle extracts that at least one major retailer said she would add immediately.

• Soul Serum, a lotion to provide immediate relief from foot pain, especially aches caused byhigh heels. Feet, in fact, appear to be the latest body part marketers are targeting. Anotherentry Smooth for Men foot scrub from Simple Sugars, a Mark Cuban “Shark Tank” investmentfounded by Lani Lazzari who made her first concoction with she was 11 years old.

• Lace Your Face Mask, an at-home mask made of medical-grade stretch cotton that affixes toears for easy use.

• Z Skin Systems, a holistic line that company president Emily Frank said was “well-receivedby retail buyers who are embracing the nutrition-focused skin care.”

• Doll Face introduced Little Black Mask, a product illustrating two market trends — growthof masks and multifunctionality.

• Cutting-edge skin care was on display, including Cane + Austin’s glycol treatments; a newpremier collection from Goldfaden MD called Plant Profusion and Kathy Ireland’s NuGeneand Jaura, a skin-care line inspired by Indonesian beauty rituals.

• Discover Scent, the brainchild of CPNA’s marketing director Daniela Ciocan, was a curatedfragrance area designed to help move the needle in scent sales. A special fragrance was evencreated for CPNA and dispersed during educational programs.

Natural beauty is on the rise in all channels, encouraging Mark Cuban to select 100% Pure(which uses fruit extracts for color) as the winner of the Beauty Pitch, a “Shark Tank”-inspiredcontest where five brands vied for a one-year mentorship from the business mogul. Otherbuzzed-about natural offerings included gluten-free Gabriel Cosmetics, the 100 percent veganPeter Lamas offering and plant-based Lavido from Israel.

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Men weren’t left out at CPNA as witnessed by activity at ManCave, a natural men’s groomingline, and 18.21 Man Made, men’s items housed in whiskey bottles (and the winner’s of theaudience vote at the Beauty Pitch).

While retailers looked for innovation, the professional side of the business eyed products todifferentiate the offer, especially those highlighting the expertise of stylists. Although moreprofessional goods are available online, the industry is stressing its hands-on advantage.

“You can’t buy the expertise of a salon hair-care expert on the Internet,” said Lynelle Lynch,president of the Beauty Changes Lives Foundation, which launched a new scholarship duringCPNA, focused on aesthetics and sponsored by Murad Inc.

The hair message this year was about preventing damaging rather than repairing. Withdramatic shades in hair color taking the spotlight, Sexy Hair saw what Jennifer Weiderman,vice president of marketing and education, saw as “white space” in the market. The companyis launching Bond-ing, a hair breakage prevention system. The company said the three-stepsystem is faster than competitive products.

In keeping with its heritage of innovative luxury-hair introductions, Alterna revealed MoistureIntense pretreatment, oil crème shampoo and conditioner for textured hair under its CaviarAnti-Aging Banner. The campaign will feature a multiethnic model.

Obliphica Professional aims to keep its rapid growth pattern on the incline with a new stylingline including a brushable mousse and a hair spray that makes it easy for stylists to “create andrecreate,” according to the brand’s celebrity stylist Sacha Quarles.

Concentrating on the health of hair wasn’t the only trend — products to grow hair were alsoprevalent. Macadamia Professional debuted a line designed to reduce hair fallout to providethicker hair called Eprouvage. Another contender at the Beauty Pitch netting attention wasZenagen, a shampoo-based therapy tapping nutraceutical technology to spur hair growth.

Appliances to spur follicle growth also took center stage including an item launched at theshow from NutraLuxe MD called NutraStim. Peter von Berg, president of NutraLuxe, notedthat devices are being purchased even by Millennials who aren’t waiting for the first hair to fallout or first wrinkle to seek a tool.

Those attending hope another category in need of a life, nail care, will benefit from a bevy ofnew nail colors — such as Essie’s Silk Watercolor Collection — as well as long-lasting, quickdry systems.

OPI is eliciting strong consumer acceptance for its Infinite Shine, a three-step systemdelivering up to 10 days of wear. Jessica Cosmetics introduced its Phenom gel-like collectionin 24 shades also said to last up to 10 days. Orly’s entry is called Epix Flexible Color, atwo-step system with properties that bend with the nail to reduce chipping. These lines appealto women looking for the last of gels without the time commitment and potential nail damage.

With color cosmetics gaining traction in the market, there was stepped up entries fromcompanies including Prestige, NYX, Doucce and Palladio. “Color is strong, especially lip andbrow,” concluded Julie Tomasi, senior vice president of merchandising for Ulta Beauty.


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Cosmoprof features ZSS – as reported WWD

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