SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

A Publication of WWD

Work It OutThe treatment category is increasingly more than skin deep, as brands target toning

instead of topicals when it comes to antiaging. For more, see pages 7 and 8. PLUS: Victoria Beckham builds her beauty brand and celebrating

the Dream Ball past and present. PHOTOGRAPH BY HEAMI LEE

ISSUE#27

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SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

THE BUZZ

Shiseido Americas Names Chief Information OfficerShiseido Americas has appointed

Shannon Britton chief information officer.

Britton will manage all IT application enterprises and platforms for Shiseido Americas, according to a statement put out by the company. She will also join the North American subsidiary’s executive leadership team and will report to Ron Gee, Shiseido Americas’ interim chief executive officer.

Britton was most recently head of IT for Diageo, the spirits company. Cosway Beauty Brands Hires Group Chief Executive Officer; Colorproof Marketing VPCosway Beauty Brands has tapped Rick Kornbluth to be its chief executive officer, and Maureen Saenz to be Colorproof's new vice president of marketing.

Kornbluth will manage Cosway’s brand portfolio, which includes

Neuma, Number 4 and Colorproof, the last of which was acquired in June. A statement from the company referenced the recent and upcoming expansions in a time of growth.

In a related move, Colorproof named Maureen Saenz vice president of marketing, where she will lead “vision, direction and implementation of strategies focused on brand growth.” She was recently at Kevin Murphy. Kornbluth was also most recently president and ceo of hair-care manufacturer Kevin Murphy. La Prairie Group AG Creates New VP Role, Reshuffles Brand PortfolioNoelle Goris has been named vice president, travel retail of La Prairie Group AG, where she will oversee travel retail strategy globally.

“In [Goris], we have found the rare combination of expertise in international luxury, travel retail and commercial know-how. I am delighted

she has joined our team,” said Patrick Rasquinet, chief executive officer of La Prairie Group, in a statement.

Goris, who is an alumna of both Procter & Gamble and Coty, is adopting her responsibilities from Laurent Marteau, whose responsibilities are being expanded to include the Americas in addition to Europe and the Middle East.

Kopari Announces Susan Kim Chief Executive OfficerSusan Kim is the new ceo of Kopari.

Kim is the first chief executive officer to take over after Bryce Goldman, cofounder and former chief executive officer. In a statement put out by the brand, it underscored Kim’s knowledge of growing direct-to-consumer customer bases while also spearheading an omnichannel approach. Kopari, which launched in 2015 as a d-to-c brand, is now sold in Sephora, Ulta and Nordstrom.

Kim has held previous positions at Huda Beauty, Benefit Cosmetics and L’Oréal USA. Dermstore Gets New Chief Marketing OfficerDermstore has named Patrice Varni as its new chief marketing officer.

Varni, who most recently served as the chief customer officer at Corelle Brands, will be tasked with “driving future success for Dermstore,” according to a statement released by the retailer.

Maesa Chooses Ahmed El Gabry as Group Chief Operating OfficerBrand incubator Maesa has named Ahmed El Gabry its new global chief operating officer.

El Gabry comes after 18 years at Mars, where he was responsible for managing and integrating its North American supply chain. —James Manso

The Beauty Carousel: Moves at Shiseido, Kopari, Colorproof

¬ Hand sanitizer is clinically sterile by nature, but a new partnership aims to marry utility and taste.

Pureté System, purveyor of all things chic and sanitary, has partnered with Amass, a distiller and hand sanitizer manufacturer, to incorporate botanical-laden hand sanitizers in its high-end, high-design dispensing systems. The minimalist obelisks, which launched in June following the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, are available in a

variety of minimalist formats and finishes for corporate, retail and hospitality settings. Prices range from $650 to $1,950. Amass, which crafts both hand sanitizers and spirits, is offering its hand sanitizers in three different scents.

Pureté System was founded earlier this year by Jonathan Reed, founder and chief executive officer of the creative agency CS Global, who saw a white space in the market for ultra-luxe sanitizing solutions that double as

objets d'art. Currently, the brand’s offerings include monolithic hand sanitizer pedestals, wall mounts, and tabletop dispensers; along with pedestals, tabletop units and partitions for sanitizing wipes. —James Manso

The Sleek Set

Pureté System's hand sanitizer pedestal.

AS THE WEATHER cools down, TikTok trends have dissipated from Google search trends. According to September data from Trendalytics, which uses a proprietary algorithm to predict monthly trends, the focus is on skin now, specifically, masks. “There was still whimsy and escapism over summer, but now it’s much more, ‘Everything is terrible, and I need to control my maskne,’” said Trendalytics chief executive officer Cece Lee. The pivot to functionality has been an undercurrent for skin-care sales throughout the pandemic, although Lee theorized that the pandemic’s duration played a vital role in the crescendo of skin-care trends, coupled with the looming election and natural disasters across the country. “As much as people are paying lip service to ‘the new normal,’ everyone is now realizing that it’s never going back to normal. You tried to get as much escapism as you could over the summer, and everyone knows now that winter is coming,” she said. Here, Trendalytics’ top search trends for September, as ranked by year-over-year growth.

1. maskne: +16,668%

2. nettle venom: +2,528%

3. neck mask: +1,222%

4. men's face mask: +961%

5. nose mask: +704%

6. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid:

+703%

7. biodegradable hair ties: +516%

8. niacinamide serum: +502%

9. lace mask: +492%

10. cooling mask: +451%

By the Numbers: Back to Basics September data from Trendalytics show searches indicate skin care’s continued — and growing — dominance. BY JAMES MANSO

Source: Trendalytics

from top left: Shannon Britton, Rick Kornbluth, Maureen Saenz, Noelle Goris, Laurent Marteau, Susan Kim, Patrice Varni, Ahmed El Gabry

Made for beauty lovers by beauty lovers in sunny California

CLEAN • VEGAN • CRUELT Y-FREE

@summerfridays | summerfridays.com

4

SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

NEWS FEED

THERE IS NO airbrushing the facts

at Victoria Beckham Beauty, which

has pinned its name on transparency

with regard to both ingredients and

communications, and which prides

itself on non-toxic, cruelty-free

formulations and planet-friendly

packaging.

The brand prints every product

comment—good, bad, in-between—

on its web site, while the cofounder

and chief executive officer Sarah

Creal doesn’t hold back about some

of the challenges the year-old start-

up has faced.

The brand’s debut in China over the

summer was a success, but there were

a few nerve-racking moments, like

when the team ran out of product

within minutes of the brand's debut

on Alibaba’s Tmall Global.

Victoria Beckham Beauty debuted

there in July with the Power

Glow set, an exclusive created

for the launch featuring a serum

and moisturizer developed with

Augustinus Bader. Beckham herself

led the marketing efforts via a

livestream Q&A session with Viya,

one of China’s biggest influencers.

“So, we go live and we sell about

$150,000 worth of product in five

minutes. It was a success by anybody’s

measure, and I was like ‘This is

amazing!’ Then the site showed we

were out of stock. In the end, we did not

meet the demand, so it was frustrating.

The silver lining is that we know there

is such demand,” said Creal during a

video interview from New York.

Creal said her team bounced back,

and are now prepping their next big

China move, in November. “I’m so

supercharged about China, because

we’re in there now. We’re gearing up,

as everyone is, for the big festival,

11/11, Singles Day,” the biggest online

sales event in the world.

There were more silver linings in

China: Creal said Beckham has good

awareness in the region, both as a

person and as a fashion brand, and

people admire and respect her. Creal

said they refer to her as “Beisao,” or

Mrs. Beckham.

“It’s a term of respect, almost

like ‘sister-in-law,’ and there's a

warm tonality to the word. Victoria

is admired because she has this

beautiful life—but she’s also worked

hard for it. Her values are authentic

and resonate with the Chinese

consumer. They actually started a

hashtag when we launched, which

was #WorkHardBeKind,” said Creal,

an Estée Lauder veteran with a

background in marketing and

product development.

Although she couldn’t physically be

in China during lockdown, Beckham

did her part, making videos where she

gave advice to young girls and talked

about what she would have done

differently in the past. “A lot of it was

like ‘Embrace your own imperfections,

and that of your friends. Support

other people and be kind to them.

Make the effort,’” said Creal.

Both Beckham and Creal have tried

to build the beauty brand with some

of those values in mind.

“When Victoria and I first talked

about what we wanted to do with

the brand, our whole conversation

was about what luxury beauty would

look like in 10 years. We wanted to

build a brand for the future. As part

of that, we knew we would have to be

sustainably focused. And we knew we

wanted to be cleaner than clean.”

The brand marked its first

anniversary earlier this month, and

Creal said that despite the oddities of

operating in lockdown, business has

been good.

Sales, she said, have been growing

in the double-digits month-on-month,

and the brand is expecting “strong”

double-digit growth in fiscal 2020-21.

Creal even said that’s a conservative

projection. While the brand started as

a direct-to-consumer proposition, it

now also sells on Cult Beauty and Net-

a-porter, in addition to Tmall Global.

Some 75 percent of the customers

that shop on the site each month

are new, a trend fueled by people

quarantining at home.

During lockdown, Creal said,

“suddenly, we were getting a lot of

very new customers; people who were

buying beauty online for the first time.”

The brand also launched its Coco Kajal

eyeliner during lockdown, and Creal

said it's been a crowd-pleaser.

Next up is a debut line of lipstick

called Posh, named for Beckham’s

Spice Girls moniker, which launches

on Oct. 1. There are nine shades, while

ingredients include avocado and rose

botanical oils, and flower waxes.

“We created the formula because

we wanted it to be plumping and

moisturizing, with a butter-soft, shiny

finish. For the packaging, we used

minimum plastic. It clicks when it

closes, and it has the most incredible

weight,” she said. Names include

Spice, Play, Girl, Pixies, Sway, and a

red called Pop. The price is $38.

In January, the brand will launch a

newfangled, clean mascara that Creal

describes as the dream.

“It has this kind of curling effect,

it’s transfer-proof, 100 percent clean

and comes off with warm water.

It leaves not one trace. It’s like

mascara remastered. We wanted to

re-engineer mascara into a treatment

that would wear like iron.”

She said ingredients include plant

and botanical waxes that are soft

and malleable, botanical ingredients

for plumping, vitamins and a plant

polymer to seal up everything.

More skin-care products and color

cosmetics are in the pipeline for next

year, while the brand also plans to

crack into fragrance and wellness

via supplements. “Victoria and I are

both crazy about these categories:

The hardest part is cutting it down

because we can only launch so many

products a year,” she said.

In an interview on the sidelines

of her spring 2021 presentation in

London last weekend, Beckham

described Creal as “my perfect partner

in crime. I love learning from her—

she is so knowledgable. We are a

small start-up, and we've earned so

much respect in skin care already, and

that's difficult for a fashion brand.”

The products, and strategy all come

from the same place, said Creal.

“This is not a brand being built in

a corporate boardroom. Our first goal

is to be authentic, to put products

out there that we care about and

that are really going to do something

different, products Victoria and I feel

like we’re missing our own regimens.

I have the faith that if we grow it

organically and authentically, people

will respond,” she said.

Victoria Beckham Beauty Powers Through Pandemic With Lipstick, ‘Clean’ Mascara to Come A debut line of lipstick called Posh will launch on Oct. 1, followed by a new mascara formulation that cofounder and ceo Sarah Creal says is the dream. BY SAMANTHA CONTI

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Beckham Beauty.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT RACHAEL DESANTIS, BEAUTY DIRECTOR AT RDESANTIS@WWD.COM

J O I N A

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6

SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

NEWS FEED

MAYBELLINE IS LAUNCHING

Brave Together, a new global

philanthropic platform aimed at

raising mental health awareness and

supporting people with anxiety

and depression.

It is an ambitious initiative. The

L'Oréal-owned brand has pledged

$10 million over the next five years

to mental health organizations

worldwide. The brand has also created

a mental health education web site in

partnership with organizations such as

Crisis Text Line, Columbia University,

National Alliance on Mental Illness and

the Jed Foundation. With Crisis Text

Line, Maybelline is also planning to

launch a co-branded text line for people

to have anonymous access to free

mental health resources and support.

“We know that one in five people

are living with anxiety or depression,

including an astonishing number of

women — they're more than twice as

likely as men [to live with anxiety or

depression],” said Trisha Ayyagari,

global brand president, Maybelline

New York. “We want to support them

on their mental health journey, and

know they're not alone — it aligns

closely with our values.”

In the wake of the global

coronavirus pandemic and a new

civil rights movement in the U.S.,

consumers are demanding now more

than ever that brands speak out

against social injustice.

“It's becoming a responsibility

for those brands who are fortunate

enough to have a big platform to

support our community in any

way possible,” Ayyagari said. “Our

community is diverse, we have a

large female audience — a young

female audience — and this aligns

with our brand DNA. It's critical to

show support to our community to

create awareness around a subject

that is important to them and to help

provide resources where we can.”

Brave Together has been in the

works for more than two years. The

brand works closely with Columbia

University in New York to produce

research on triggers for anxiety

and depression. “We've basically

surrounded ourselves with experts,”

Ayyagari said. “All with the goal of

providing knowledge to our audience.” 

Maybelline's co-branded text line,

in partnership with Crisis Text Line,

is yet to launch. Ayyagari is hoping

the text line will encourage those

are are hesitant to talk about mental

health issues to open up. “A lot of

people have trouble talking about

anxiety and depression and we

thought reaching out through text

was the easiest way,” she said. 

The Brave Together launch is coming

at a challenging time for the makeup

category, as sales across both prestige

and mass plunge due to the COVID-19

crisis. L'Oréal's consumer group, which

includes Maybelline, saw sales dip 15.2

percent in the second quarter.

“It's been very challenging —

makeup has been way down,” Ayyagari

said. “But it's been an exceptional

opportunity to connect with our

consumer on social media. We asked

our consumers, 'What would you like

to hear from us during this time?

They're surrounded by bad news and

not leaving their homes. Across the

board we heard so many responses

of, 'We just want tips and tricks, we

want you to make us feel good — and

thats what we've been doing over the

last several months, we've created a

lot of content to basically entertain

consumers in their home.”

Maybelline Pledges $10M to Mental Health OrgsThe brand's ambitious new global philanthropic initiative, Brave Together, aims to destigmatize mental health issues. BY ELLEN THOMAS

LONDON — After taking a long

break, staying at a secluded resort in

Sir Lanka, attending breakfast with

the governor of Tokyo and sailing

on the Atlantic Ocean, Claire Chung

is ready to make a comeback to the

business arena.

The former general manager of

Yoox Net-a-porter China, who has

spent more than two decades working

in the luxury sector and launched the

Net-a-porter China operation in 2015,

will take on the role of chief executive

officer at beauty start-up Ignae,

effective beginning Sept. 28.

Founded by Miguel Borges Pombo

in 2016, Ignae is a Portuguese

beauty brand that aims to harness

the unique ecology of the Azores

archipelago, from the depths of

the surrounding sea to volcanic

fumaroles with bio-science

technology to develop antiaging

products. Celebrity skin therapist

Joanne Czech and shoe designer

Christian Louboutin are among the

most notable clients according to

the brand.

Now, Chung has been tasked with

leading the brand in a digital-centric

and direct-to-consumer approach to

expand its global footprint with a

focus on China.

“I’m thrilled to be joining Ignae

to take the company to next stage

growth,” Chung said in an exclusive

interview. “I first came across the

brand as a customer.

“The bioscience and powerful

regenerative ingredients found on

the Azores, especially its thermal

waters, is unique. It’s an authentic

and exciting brand that stands out in

a crowded market,” she added.

As ceo, Chung plans to expand the

company's global footprint with new

retail and hotel spa partnerships —

which are now only available at Terra

Nostra Garden Hotel in the Azores

and the Four Seasons in Lisbon and

Bahrain — as well as launch an online

platform next year.

“For skin care, there is a global

shift to a younger customer base and

a rising global demand for natural

products. Ignae sits perfectly at

the crossroads between bio-science

and nature with an added holistic

approach to skin wellness,” she said.

Pombo said he is delighted to

welcome Chung to the team. “She is

a citizen of the world, having worked

in New York, Hong Kong, London,

Milan, Shanghai and now to Lisbon,

where she will be based. Her global

network and command of digital

will certainly accelerate our growth.

Beauty is the fastest-growing category

in retail and China will soon be the

world’s number one beauty market.

Claire’s most recent experience

in that coveted market will be

invaluable,” he added.

Born in Taiwan and educated in

America, Chung speaks five languages

and has been a pioneer in the

development of e-commerce luxury

in China for the past decade.

Prior to YNAP, she served as vice

president of international business

development at Shangpin.com,

securing deals and took more than

200 brands from Valentino to

Topshop into China for the platform.

She now also sits on the board at

Danish speaker maker Bang & Olufsen

and French luggage brand Delsey.

-EXCLUSIVE-

Claire Chung, Former YNAP China GM, Joins Beauty Start-up Ignae as CEOShe will lead the brand in a digital-centric and direct-to-consumer approach to expand its global footprint with a focus on China. BY TIANWEI ZHANG

Maybelline's web page

explaining the initiative.

Claire Chung

7

SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

DEEP DIVE

FACIAL FITNESS IS warming up

— and it's about more than the muscles.

The topic of skin health has expanded

over the past few years beyond the

epidermis to encompass what lies

underneath. Bolstered by an influx of

jade rollers, microcurrent devices, facials

and procedures, facial muscles have

garnered much attention. Now, a beauty

industry newcomer is making the case

that facial fat is just as fundamental to

improving and preserving the overall

health of the skin.

Adipeau is a beauty company

cofounded by biotech entrepreneur

Ivan Galanin, celebrity aesthetician

Kristyn Smith and plastic surgeon

Dr. Jacob Tower. The company,

which derives its name from adipose

tissue (aka fat), launched earlier this

year with the Fat Balance Activator.

Priced at $75, the product is meant to

improve the health of facial fat.

The Fat Balance Activator was born

out of an experiment by Galanin,

who had been battling a years-long

skin condition resulting in atrophy.

The former head of commercial

development at Mount Sinai School

of Medicine's Office of Technology

and Business Development began to

study the science of dermal fat and

its impact on skin health.

“When you think about fat, you

don’t think about collagen, elastin,

hyaluronic acid. That’s associated

with fibroblasts,” Galanin told WWD

Beauty Inc. “If you have the right

healthy fat cells, they signal to the

fibroblasts, ‘Make collagen, make

elastin, make hyaluronic acid.’ If

you have unhealthy fat cells, they do

the opposite: They undermine the

productivity of the fibroblasts, and

the impact is significant.”

Sales of skin-care tools and at-home

devices surged in March and April, as

beauty consumers began to stock up in

preparation for coronavirus lockdown

orders. These tools — and the in-person

treatments they temporarily replaced

— tend to target the facial muscles, but

not necessarily the adipose tissue.

NuFace, which sells microcurrent

devices meant to tone the face and

body muscles, has experienced a

surge in sales during COVID-19.

Sales increased 180 percent from

April to August over last year,

according to the company.

Tera Peterson, NuFace's chief

executive officer, said the increase

in sales suggests a solidification of

skin-care devices as “mandatory” to

consumers' overall regimens.

“You have to stimulate the muscles

to have full skin health,” Peterson

said. “If you exercise and want to get

in shape, 50 percent’s nutrition, which

is your skin care, 50 percent’s fitness,

which is your microcurrent. We’re

advocates of stimulating the muscles,

but that doesn’t mean contracting the

muscles, [which] actually starts to

deplete your ATP, the energy of our

cells, by almost 50 percent. Studies

have shown that microcurrent can

increase your ATP by 500 percent,

stimulating the muscles without

actively contracting them.”

NuFace's devices are geared towards

the facial and body muscles, though

microcurrent can play a role in

preserving facial fat by encouraging

cellular turnover, Peterson said.

Celebrity facialist and FaceXercise�

Skin Health: It's About the Fat, Too Facial fitness has largely focused on the muscles of the face, but a new brand called Adipeau says dermal fat is just as vital to skin health. BY ALEXA TIETJEN

PHOTOGRAPH BY HEAMI LEE

Sales of NuFace’s signature device have boomed this year.

“You take your body to the gym and

you’ve got to do the same with your

face. If you want to get great skin, you have to work

on the scaffolding of the muscles and manipulate them. ”

-inge theron, facegym

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SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

DEEP DIVE

Skin Fitness founder Thuyen Nguyen

is famous for his massage method

that involves both lymphatic drainage

and facial sculpting done solely

with his fingers. Before working on

million-dollar faces (Uma Thurman,

Jennifer Aniston and Christie

Brinkley, to name a few), Nguyen

volunteered in the late Nineties as

a massage therapist on paralyzed

patients. There, he developed his

now-signature method of massage as

a form of passive exercise.

“When you go to the gym, it’s

active exercise. When you have a

knot in your shoulder, you go to a

massage therapist to work it out

because they’re bringing local blood

to that area in order to detox the

knot, which is a buildup of toxins, as

well as calm the muscle down and

tone the muscle,” Nguyen said. “Any

professional athlete or dancer will

tell you they have to have a traveling

massage therapist because they have

to not only repair the tissues they’re

working out in a professional sport,

but keep the tone of their muscle

healthy for them not to get injured.”

Nguyen's massage technique focuses

on the facial muscles, not the fat.

“The massage cannot remove fat,

it can’t remove fillers, it can’t disrupt

anything,” Nguyen said. “All it does is

enhance the cells, but it doesn’t break

down fat. If anything, I make people

look thinner based on getting rid of

excess water fluid.”

FaceGym founder Inge Theron

told Beauty Inc that she created

the company, whose studios offer

treatments resembling workouts for

the face, on the premise of improving

“the scaffolding” of the face.

“I wanted to make sure the

message about facial fitness was

simple: You take your body to the

gym and you’ve got to do the same

with your face,” Theron said. “If

you want to get great skin, you

have to work on the scaffolding of

the muscles and manipulate them.

Your skin becomes better as an

incremental benefit of that.”

FaceGym has 12 international

locations and is planning to open

an additional one in New York City's

Upper East Side neighborhood

during the holiday season.

It charges as much as $285 for

a Radio Frequency facial.

In March, after it was forced to close

its New York and Los Angeles locations

due to the pandemic, FaceGym saw

a 560 percent increase in its online

business for tutorials and retail.

Aesthetic acupuncturist Dr. Travall

Croom uses acupuncture to relax too-

tight facial muscles and activate sagging

ones. Though the needles are inserted

into the facial muscles, they can

positively benefit the adipose tissue, too.

“I’m putting [needles] in to increase

the circulation to the face to help

slow down deep fat layer loss and

bone loss,” Dr. Croom said. “One way

of thinking about the aging process

is a decrease of circulation. As we

age, it takes longer for our bodies to

get stuff from point A to point B. Our

blood supply is what brings in the

new nutrients and pulls out the old

toxins. If that process takes longer,

that means it’s taking a longer time

for the cells to get new nutrients.

That means they’re breaking down.

“When things start to break down

or the circulation starts to decrease,

the skin — besides the fat layer,

which you can’t see — will also

become thinner,” he continued. “Once

the health of the face starts to pick

back up, the skin itself will thicken

up. It will turnover more.”

Dr. Croom said although Botox is

often thought of as slowing down

the aging process, it can actually

speed it up. The plastic-y or shiny

look that occasionally results from

longtime Botox use is due to a lack of

circulation to the treated area, he said.

“[Botox is] really blocking off the

nerve to the muscle,” Dr. Croom said.

“After a while, the body no longer

sees that muscle because it’s blocked

and decreases the circulation to

the area. Botox treatments are, in

the long run, speeding up the aging

process as opposed to preventing

something. It’s more of a circulation

issue regarding the skin. Once that

picks back up, the skin gets more

nutrients, the layers build back up,

and it becomes firmer and thicker.”

The positioning of facial tools and

treatments as an active part of one's

skin-care regimen is something that

Adipeau's Galanin aims to apply

to facial fat. In a paper, “Facial

Fat Fitness: A New Paradigm to

Understand Facial Aging and

Aesthetics,” published in Aesthetics

Plastic Surgery, Galanin counters the

common thinking that fat is more

of a nuisance than a benefit. Fat, he

wrote, is not a passive tissue, but an

active factor of skin health, elasticity

and structure.

There are three layers of facial fat

in the face — dermal white adipose

tissue, subcutaneous white adipose

tissue and deep white adipose tissue

— and their health depends on a

state of equilibrium supported by

factors such as healthy diet, moderate

exercise and limited sun exposure.

“Moderate exercise is really good

for fat. It keeps the fat cells toned,”

Galanin said. “Extreme exercise is bad

for fat because the body devotes all of

its energy to sustaining you on that

extreme exercise path and it shuts

down everything that’s nonessential,

[including] new fat cell formation.”

Inflammation, Galanin said, is often

the primary interferer with fat fitness.

Contrary to the belief that people

lose facial fat with age, Galanin said

that most actually gain it. Sagging

skin, he said, is a result of facial

fat losing its health, consequently

causing weakening of the skin.

“There are two main aging

paradigms,” Galanin said. “One, from

the dermatologist perspective, is

focused on fibroblasts and how do

you get fibroblasts to be productive.

The other is from a plastic surgeon’s

perspective. For years, plastic

surgeons were saying that people

lost fat and volume in the face and

they needed to be injected. Our

scientific adviser, Yale-associated

plastic surgeon [Dr.] Jake Tower,

published a paper on facial aging. He

did serial CAT Scans and showed that

most people don’t lose fat in their

faces, they gain it. It actually makes

intuitive sense.

“You’ll find that 99 percent of

dermatologists, even Park Avenue

dermatologists, don’t know anything

about [dermal fat],” he continued.

“It’s not really their fault. They were

trained in a certain mind-set or era

of science, and the whole science

around dermal fat is actually pretty

new. It was just rediscovered in 2014.

They say it takes 10 years for research

discoveries to make it into practice.”

Black ginger and safflower are the

active ingredients in Adipeau's Fat

Balance Activator, which will enter

Net-a-porter in January 2021.

“Ingredients are instruments,”

Galanin said. “They’re sending a

message and playing a particular

tune. It’s easier to get that tune right

when you only have a couple of

instruments playing.”

The product is also sold direct-

to-consumer via Adipeau's web

site, which relaunches Sept. 25. The

company will begin clinical trials,

which were previously delayed due to

the pandemic, in September.

The Fat Balance Activator is

marketed for the face and is meant

to be used in tandem with existing

products in one's skin-care regimen,

Galanin said. Adipeau is working on

future launches for the body.

“There are some exciting things

we can do for the body that are not

just putting the cream into a bigger

bottle,” Galanin said. “We’re not going

to do things like branch out into areas

that other companies are really good

at. There’s no reason for us to come

up with another moisturizer or face

oil or serum. We make it clear that

Adipeau is one part of a regimen and

it’s OK if other parts of that regimen

come from other companies.” ■

1. The treatment category is increasingly more than skin deep, with new brands targeting the muscular structure and even facial fat in their approach to antiaging and skin health. 2. Many believe that increasing circulation in the face is the key to a younger- looking appearance, rather than topical treatments. 3. The at-home market for tools and techniques to tone facial muscles has soared during the coronavirus pandemic, with some brands repor ting tr iple-digit increases.

Key Takeaways

Adipeau's Fat Balance Activator, $75.

T ILe

S E P T E M B E R 2 9

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N E X T W A V E

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industry executives who have successfully prioritized digital shifts and moved

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10

SEPTEMEBR 25, 2020

MASTER CLASS

THIS IS A TIME FOR Terry

Darland to savor.

As she prepares to cap her 42-

year beauty career with plans to

retire as president of North America

for Christian Dior Perfumes and

Cosmetics at the end of the year, the

Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and LVMH

veteran was honored Thursday night

during a virtual broadcast of the

Dream Ball,  the annual fund-raising

event in support of the Look Good

Feel Better Foundation.

Darland, who received the Beauty

Care award, has been involved with

the the event for more than 20 years,

stepping up to co-chair, then chair.

The fund-raising veteran expects to

maintain a good deal of momentum,

despite the lack of a live venue. “Last

year, they raised $1.2 million at a

live event, but this year we set a goal

for the virtual event at $750,000,

figuring that it’s hard to sell tables

when you’re not there,” Darland said.

“But so far we’re over $800,000,”

she added, noting that the total

could hit $900,000, which “would be

unbelievable for a virtual event.”

Although there may be no

substitute for being there, Darland

went to a run-through recently

and came away impressed with

the program’s “warmth and real

compassion,” and the large number

of cancer patients receiving help

with makeup application through

the digital hookup.  “Hats off to

[executive director] Louanne Roark,”

she said. “We have always known

that makeup is transformative.”

Darland made those remarks

during an interview that touched on

highpoints of a career that ran from

25 years at Lauder to nearly 17 years

at Dior. Now she is preparing to hand

the baton to her successor, Charlotte

Holman Ros, formerly general

manager of Charlotte Tilbury Beauty,

who has already started work.

This gave Darland a chance to

look back over how dramatically

the industry has changed, from a

vast forest of department stores

bearing more than an estimated 220

nameplates to a market dominated

by specialty and single brand stores

trying to survive in a digital jungle.

As for what’s next, Darland wants

to do more of what she has always

done — travel. And not just anywhere.

In compiling her wish list, Darland

discovered that she and her husband

Mike have never traveled together in

LVMH’s home turf. “As soon as we can

get through this,” she said, “he and I

will take a trip to Paris.”

In this long career, what made

you the most proud?

Terry Darland: I am probably the

most proud of the turnaround of Dior

in the U.S. When Pam [Baxter, as

president and chief executive officer

of Dior, Guerlain and Givenchy] and

I got here in 2004, the brand was

really in trouble. [Darland was senior

vice president of sales and marketing

for Dior.] We closed May Co., one

third of our distribution. We dried

up all the diversion, got rid of all the

promotions, started a makeup artistry

events program and went after great

space and location, slowly reentering

stores where fashion was — Neiman,

Bergdorf and Saks. At the time, on

NPD, we ranked about 13th as a

brand in the U.S. This year, we will

be the number-five selling brand….

It cost money but we came back to

profit within two years. We recouped

almost all of it within two years.

In terms of fragrance, I believe that

the Dior Sauvage men’s fragrance is

going to be number one this year.

Dior has never held the number-one

rank in fragrances at any point in our

career here.

Also, there’s a campaign that we’re

about to launch for J’adore, called

Chin Up. It’s a good time for Dior to

really take a stand for the strength

and support of all women. It’s going

to be on social media.

What is the biggest challenge

the industry faces today?

T.D.: The big concern is the drop in

the color cosmetics business. Some

of that is tied to Sephora, but some of

that is tied to an over reliance on same

old, same old. If palettes are hot, let’s

bring out a million. Instead of relying

on really building your basics, they

wanted nothing but newness all the

time. I learned from Leonard [Lauder],

you have to focus on the bread and

butter stockkeeping units that you can

rely on day in and day out.

What magic ingredient do you

need in designing a business?

T.D.: You have to have the right

performance-based product to put

in the market. How are you going to

market it? You have to have a high level

of digital social media marketing skills.

What is going to make you stand out —

is it celebrity? Celebrity endorsements

are waning. It’s more like personal

individuals who create things. Where

are you going to sell it? Are you

just going to sell it online or work

with a retailer and try to control the

overhead? It’s expensive to do business

with a retailer. Very expensive.

How would you describe your

leadership style? Especially in

this perilous time of pandemic

and an ever-changing market?

T.D.: You visit stores a lot; you interact

with associates, get their point of view.

That is why I traveled so much. I always

made sure with these store visits, that

[the associates] felt they could see me

and talk to me. The human touch was

always number one for me.

What is your position on

mentoring? T.D.: I talk to my top-level team

members a lot about how they are

advocating for their team members.

How do they help to navigate the

careers of not only themselves, but

the people who work for them. The

thirtysomethings crave it.

We started a mid-year career

[review] program in the U.S., because

it seemed to me that once a year was

not enough.

[With that age group] after five

years, they are all looking to go

do something else. When we were

young, we took it for granted that

someone would take care of our

careers and tell us when it was time

to move to the next thing. This

generation feels very strongly that if

no one has promoted them within

four years, they are out.Terry Darland The veteran beauty executive looks back on a storied career on the eve of being honored at the Look Good Feel Better Dream Ball. BY PETE BORN

DIRECT CONNECT: @Terry.Darland

Darland’s Rise Through the Ranks: 1980: Joins the Estée Lauder Cos. as Clinique’s first Account Coordinator in the U.S. 1986: Named regional sales manager of Prescriptives. 1995: Becomes vice president of sales at Prescriptives. 1999: Switches gears to become vice president of marketing at Aramis/Tommy Hilfiger Fragrances. 2001: Adds the education function to her repertoire by being named vice president of sales and education of Prescriptives / Kate Spade Beauty. 2004: Moves to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where she is named senior vice president of Christian Dior Perfumes & Cosmetics NA. 2009: Named President, North America, of Christian Dior Perfumes and Cosmetics 2012: Adds president of Guerlain to her LVMH responsibilities.

11

SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

STUDENT COUNSEL

SARAH KENDALL S E N I O R , U N I V E R S I T Y O F F LO R I D AI’m originally from the Virginia side

of the D.C. area, but I wanted to do

something different and get away

from home. I’m subletting a friend’s

room in Gainesville, Fla.

I love makeup and beauty, and I

started watching Beauty YouTubers

in sixth grade. I still do now.

As I’ve gotten older, I’ve gotten

more minimalistic. I did a lot more

eyeshadow and eyeliner every day in

high school. When I was younger,

I used to buy a lot more, too.

Recently, I’m trying to be more

sustainable, so I’m putting toward

efforts to not buy as much.

I think it’s really cool to support

small and especially multicultural

businesses. For example, there’s Beauty

Bakerie; it has a different ingredient in

its powder that’s actually a solid point

of differentiation. I know Target started

stocking this woman-owned brand,

and it would be cool to see more small,

multicultural beauty products in stores.

Before, there was green-washing,

and now there’s diversity-washing.

Especially all the companies telling

their plans. It’s cool to see their facts,

and it would definitely influence me

to buy some brands over others, but

I’m paying more attention to who’s

being silent. 

I hope stores will start to want to

inform their customers and maybe

even put more displays highlighting

smaller or diversely owned brands. 

ANAHI AMARO S O P H O M O R E , E A S T E R N M I C H I G A N U N I V E R S I T YI live in a house full of women. My

routine varies because I learn a lot

from my sisters and my mom, we each

have a thing. I do hair, my sister does

nails, my other sister does eyelashes.

When I was in school, I used to just

wash my face and put on moisturizer.

This quarantine has changed self-care

for me. I’ve been really taking care

of my skin. When the stores opened

up, we tried not to go, but we entered

small stores. We ended up finding

a couple of products that changed

the game for us. I have oily-to-dry

skin, and I can never find the perfect

moisturizer—they are either too sticky

or too moisturizing. I found a Pond’s

moisturizer, and it’s my favorite.

On social media, when all these

celebrities and influencers were

being outed for racism, it definitely

stopped me from buying their

products. Black Lives Matter has

opened my eyes to small businesses

and Black-owned brands. My sisters

have been buying stuff from Black-

owned brands, too.

SERENA JAYAWARDENAS O P H O M O R E , R U TG E R S U N I V E R S I T Y B U S I N E S S S C H O O LOnline school doesn’t feel that

different, but it is different. My friends

and I have been socially distancing and

hanging out in our own cars, just so

we get to go say hello. We play video

games together, so that makes it easy.

I’m pretty low-key, but I do have

makeup and skin-care routines. On

TikTok, I can see people using just

a few simple things and their skin

is glowing. I try to keep it simple —

cleanser, moisturizer, and that’s it.

For makeup, I’ll do something for my

lips, some eyeliner and mascara. I try

not to do too much. Especially now,

it’s not like I’m going anywhere.

I didn’t wear makeup that much

at school, I’d sweat it all off and be

stressed out. Now it’s more laid back.

What I’m really looking forward to

is Morphe 2 from Charli & Dixie

D’Amelio. It’ll be fun to try out

new stuff. Now that I don’t have to

worry about people seeing me, I can

try whatever and not worry about

people thinking ‘Oh, my god, she’s so

bad at makeup.’

I haven’t been really looking to shop

recently, but it’s great to see people

giving their platform to Black-owned

brands. If you’re going to sell things

to a diverse demographic, you should

have people who know what they’re

talking about, and the only way to do

that is a diverse workforce.  I’m not

exactly sure which brands to try yet,

but when I look for a new foundation

to buy, I’m definitely going to be

looking for a Black-owned brand.

RAHMA ABDULLAHIJ U N I O R , O H I O S TAT E U N I V E R S I T Y“I’m from Columbus, Ohio. My

parents emigrated here from Somalia

in 1997. I go to Ohio State University.

Midway, we transitioned online.

I actually liked it. I could always

rewatch recorded classes, especially

when studying.

I also talk to my friends on

FaceTime. The only other thing I’m

doing besides Zoom is organizing

with some friends that go to a local

high school. We’re trying to get cops

out of schools.

I’ve been organizing a lot of

protests, and I tell people not to

wear makeup. If you get teargassed,

it stays on your skin if you have

makeup on. I’m definitely using a lot

more skin care than makeup. 

But I love makeup, I love skin

care, I love all of it. I just got so into

it freshman year in high school.

Normally, I’d go to Sephora or Ulta or

my local beauty store, but I’ve been

shopping a lot online. Also, I’ve been

doing curbside pickup at Ulta. 

I now have more time to do research

on the companies I’m buying from.

I’m pushing myself to just buy Black.

For example, Bahi Cosmetics [Ed note:

now called Ayele &Co.], they’re Black-

owned. I also love the Lip Bar. 

I want brands to do more. You have

a really big platform, you should use it

for good. It’s important for brands to

be diverse. I started paying attention

because you can talk as much as you

want about Black Lives Matter, but if

you’re not implementing your ideas

into your own company, then I don’t

believe you.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Student Counsel is a feature that

garners consumer feedback. WWD

Beauty Inc partners with Chegg,

the leading student-first connected

learning platform known by

87 percent of college students, to

identify our panel, who agreed

to share their unfiltered opinion.

Collegiate Conscious Consumerism Four students weigh in on beauty, brand values and Black Lives Matter. AS TOLD TO JAMES MANSO

Serena Jayawardena

Sarah Kendall Anahi Amaro

Rahma Abdullahi

12

SEPTEMBER 25, 2020

EYE CANDY

Dream Time¬ Few industries band together as effectively as beauty when it comes to raising money for a notable cause. Take the BeautyCares Dream Ball, which has raised tens of millions of dollars since its inception for the Look Good Feel Better program. The event, held in late September, also unofficially kicks off the fall beauty “season,” a night when even the cavernous Cipriani is packed cheek-to-jowl with

execs. Although this year’s event, held Sept. 24 virtually, looked very different, it was no less buzzy, with honorees Terry Darland of Dior, Keech Combe Shetty of Combe and Rick Tolin of Lubrizol Advanced Materials, and entrepreneur Susanna Quinn recognized as survivor advocate. To celebrate the evening, Beauty Inc combed our archives for a look back at some of the Dream Ball’s most memorable moments. —Jenny B. Fine

Terry Darland in 2012.

Fabrizio Freda in 2012.

Jonathan Zrihen and Marc Rey in 2016.

tk caption

Carol Hamilton in 2012. tk caption

Stephane de la Faverie in 2016.

Valisia Lekae in 2016.

Drew Barrymore in 2015.

Rayuana Aleyce and Chef Roblé Al in 2013.

William Lauder and Thia Breen in 2012.

Daniel Annesse and Jane Hertzmark Hudis in 2016.

Jerry Vittoria, Goldie Hawn and Pam Baxter in 2013. Ha

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