Cooking With Class -- Almine

CookingWith Class

Memoirs andMeals

By Her Grace

the Duchess of Valderano

&

The Rt. Hon.

The Countess of Shannon

Dedication

This book is dedicated to the memory of my dear friend, the Duch-ess of Valderano, whose recipes form the first part of this book, as

well as to the many dear friends who inspired the recipes.

Her Grace the Duchess of Valderano and the Right Honourable the Countess of Shannon at the Baron de Felici's Castello di Ropollo.

Cooking With Class 3

The DuChess of ValDeranoThe Duchess of Valderano, Duchess of Castel di Spano and Marquesa de Rio Castel died in

London on July 6, aged 73. She was born at Beckington, near Frome, on July 15, 1919.For all her exotic sounding titles, the Duchess of Valderano came of a thoroughly English

background. She was born Honor Mary Langford-Sainsbury, to a much decorated first world war airman, and his wife Maude Hamilton Russel Mortimer. She was brought up in Somerset and, partly as a result of having rheumatic fever badly as a child, was educated at home.

She met her husband, whose titles derive from Italy and Sicily, as a small girl, and encountered him again more seriously at her coming-out party. She and the then Lieutenant Ronald Waring were married shortly afterwards in 1941. She accompanied her husband on his various domestic postings but when he was sent overseas to liaise with the Italian partisans in northern Italy she remained at Lymington with her two children. During the war she also served as a VAD specializing in radiography.

Once the war was over she joined her husband in Italy, where what remained of the family estates existed. She spoke fluent Italian, French, Spanish, Portuguese and German, which made her a useful partner in cloak and dagger operations (this was the early, tense period of the Cold War). She played a major part in the escape of Count Almasy who had managed to get out of a communist prison in Hungary in 1948 and came through Rome with KGB agents in hot pursuit. This culminated in a 100 mile an hour car chase through Rome to Ciampino airport where she and her husband got Almasy onto a plane to Cairo just as it was about to take off.

She was also a first class shot. One night crossing the Futa Pass between Bologna and Florence, an attempt was made to hold up the staff car, which her husband was driving. A bandit fired a blast from a submachine gun, which went just over the top of the windscreen. Traveling at about 40 mph she fired back instantly and, with a single shot from her pistol, succeeded in knocking the bandit head over heels into the ditch!

On another occasion she took part in the interrogation of a senior Hungarian Communist diplomat. She and her husband had had an old-fashioned wire recording machine flown out from London but had experienced great difficulty in getting it to work. After 24 hours of practicing with it, for testing purposes their two children sang ‘Bandiera Rossa” (which they had been taught by the cook) and she recited “The Owl and the PussyCat”, everything seemed satisfactory.

In the interrogation the Hungarian was nervous and jumpy but the microphone had been duly concealed in a vase of flowers and, in some triumph, the wire was sent off via embassy courier to London. Alas, all that came out of it, when the top brass gathered to listen to it, were two piping children’s voices singing “The Red Flag” and a woman reciting a poem about a bird and an animal going “to sea in a beautiful pea green boat.” A secret message promptly came through from London asking for the key to the code.

The years went by in Ireland, in Italy, in Spain and in Africa, in which continent she and husband traveled very extensively. In 1961, 1962, 1964, and 1966 she was in Angola and the Congo with her husband and later all over Mozambique and Zimbabwe. For 20 years, her home, however, was in Portugal where the Duke of Valderano, as Ronnie Waring became at the beginning of the 1960’s, was an instructor at the NATO War College at the Pedrouscos, just outside Lisbon. After the Portuguese revolution in 1974 they moved between Rome, London, the United States and Brazil, with her husband again lecturing at various defense colleges and institutes.

The Duchess of Valderano had a great capacity for making friends in whatever country or company she found herself. There was also a marked caring, compassionate side to her, which could be displayed as much to animals as to human beings. More than anyone else, she was responsible for getting the cats, which frequent the Forum and the other classical ruins of Rome, classified as being part of the monumental sites to which they belong and thus being entitled to protection under Italian law. She was appointed a Dame Grand Cross of the Order of St. George and a Dame Grand Cross of the Order of St. Ignatius of Antioch.

4 Cooking With Class

attending the opening of Parliament by her Majesty the Queen.


The CounTess of shannonI have the great fortune in being the friend to a lady who has an almost boundless compassion

and fount of energy in her mission to alleviate the cares and misfortunes of those around her. To use the old Celtic phrase, she is one who “has the power” and, through her work as a healer, has earned the gratitude of her very many patients. In addition, she enjoys the admiration and respect of all her students to whom she imparts her deep knowledge in this field and that of spiritual advancement.

She is descended from two very ancient and noble families. On her father’s side it is from the family of de Villiers de l’Isle Adam le Belle de Pompone through the Lord of Chantermerle, Governor of Poitou and Lord Chamberlain to King Louis XIV, whose grandson Louis de Villiers, Lord of Camperè and Chantermerle, owing to the Edict of Nantes against French Protestants, had to leave France with his family and took refuge in the Province of the Cape of Good Hope where they arrived on 6th May 1689. Here the Dutch Governor permitted them to settle provided that they renounce their French titles and spoke only Dutch! From then on the de Villiers family became one of the leading political families in South Africa. In fact, her young life was one of a very nomadic existence because the family was constantly travelling as her father followed his Parliamentary duties. On her mother's side, the family is of even more ancient Norse origin through a Baron de Plessis and Count de Prè with their castle at La Rochelle. There was an early Countess de Prè called Almine, since when that Norse name has been perpetuated in this family.

Today she is widely in demand as a lecturer on life enhancing topics involving constant travelling yet again. As a published author, she has also produced numerous presentations, had her essays read at the Geneva Art Association, and she has even been a newspaper columnist. Some years ago she was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts in England and has founded her own charity for helping deprived children known as “Bring the Children Home: World Global Foundation”.

In spite of all this hectic activity, she cultivates considerable culinary skills, frequently insisting on feeding as well as instructing her multitude of students, often with new recipes concocted in the mood of the moment and reflecting the theme of her work.

So now, as Baroness Carleton, Baroness Castlemartyr and Countess of Shannon she, together with her dear friend the late Duchess of Valderano, offers this unique collection of choice recipes for your enjoyment which cover every possible social occasion.


foreWorDPerhaps it was greed really, but I like to think that it was curiosity. My interest in

cooking started, when as a small boy, I noticed that the mashed potato made by some people was so very much tastier than that made by others, most especially the type served up by the Preparatory School which I attended where it was no more than hot, dry potato flour resulting from over boiled potatoes being put through what I called in my mind a ‘worming machine.’* Cooks in those days were nice plump friendly bodies who did not mind a small boy watching how their favorite vegetable was prepared. I quickly learned that the secret was to whip up the result of the dreaded worming machine to allow much of the steam to escape, leaving the dry potato to receive the previously warmed mixture of butter and milk. This was then whipped in with much gusto until the whole was firm and white again. Not too much butter, otherwise the result was greasy and unpleasant. Finally, a little salt to taste was shipped in and the result was perfection. Much of the secret was a good strong right arm rapidly wielding a fork, not just a little idle stirring.

I have always been a strong supporter of good simple, tasty fare and I eschew the almost religious consumption of things which are solely unusual, rare or expensive to give them merit. Some things I can eat, but wonder why, such as small pieces of jelly in sea water, otherwise known as oysters, and which ruin a good steak and kidney by making some parts of the meat taste fishy. In addition, small pieces of gristle, otherwise known as escargots, which ruin the enjoyment of excellent garlic butter, which is so much better if used with mushrooms. Fish roes are good and nutritious but, except for the price, I cannot see that caviar deserves quite the fuss that is made over it. Were it not so cheap and available, I am sure that the humble hen’s egg would easily displace many of these vaunted delicacies.

I believe that all food must be fresh, especially fish, and I do not believe in the policy of relying on a measure of putrefaction to make up for an otherwise tasteless commodity. Hence I am not too keen on things such as game but I must admit that I do like green cheese in moderation. Some of the tastiest and tenderest meat that I have ever eaten came from Kosher rations issued in the Army; meat eaten within a few hours of slaughter, not left for some weeks being ‘hung’ until friendly bacteria had destroyed the tougher elements.

Much of our attitude to dishes is often bound up with nostalgia, perhaps romantic, perhaps through impressive or other circumstances with which we associate them. Think of that quite wonderful rice pudding made with evaporated milk, butter and brown sugar in a mess tin over an open fire.

I think it was a French chef who described English cooking as excellent provided that you had breakfast three times a day. How right he was, the English breakfast was well received although many hotels now only produce a similar but somewhat degraded meal termed an ‘American’ breakfast. The real English breakfast in a country house was a banquet for the Gods; long rows of entrée dishes on hot plates containing porridge, eggs, boiled, fried, poached or scrambled, bacon, mushrooms, kidneys, kippers, sausages, sauté potatoes, kedgeree and always a large ham on the bone accompanied a most delectable jar of pickled peaches, usually bearing a Fortnum and Mason label. Incidentally, these latter can easily by made: merely peel, halve and stone some fresh yellow cling peaches and boil for a short time in a mixture of white malt or wine vinegar with sugar, cinnamon and cloves. Put hot into jars and seal.

In this book you will find that Almine has included the simple dishes liked by all, those which she remembers from her background in South Africa as well as her formal dinner party menus and those contributed by the late Duchess of Valderano, who, as you will see, entertained most of the crowned and uncrowned nobility of Europe.

So, if you are entertaining just me, a world famous gastronome or the ex Emperor of Ruritania, all the appropriate dishes are here…just take your pick!

The rt. hon. The 9th earl of shannon


Part 1

Menus by The Duchess of Valderano

Menu No. 1 • Scallops Dinner

Menu No. 2 • Pheasant Dinner

Menu No. 3 • Pheasant Risotto Luncheon

Menu No. 4 • Quails Dinner

Menu No. 5 • Ham Dinner

Menu No. 6 • Steak Dinner

Menu No. 7 • Beef Dinner

Menu No. 8 • Duck Dinner

Menu No. 9 • Pork Chops Luncheon

Menu No. 10 • Hamburgers Luncheon

Menu No. 11 • Chicken Dinner

Menu No. 12 • Chicken Luncheon

Menu No. 13 • Sea Trout Dinner

Menu No. 14 • Fish Cakes Luncheon

Menu No. 15 • Veal Dinner

Menu No. 16 • Lamb Dinner

Menu No. 17 • Pork Dinner

Menu No. 18 • Venison Dinner

Menu No. 19 • Chicken Paella Barbecue

Menu No. 20 • Beef Porkolt Picnic or Shooting Luncheon

Menu No. 21 • Assorted Buffet Supper

All menus are given in Three Courses with suggested wines.

Menu No. 1

DInner

asparagus with Melted Butter and Parmesan

scallops “Bantry Bay”

rice

supreme de Chocolat

suggested Wine: Ideally Champagne, but any good dry, white wine, well chilled, will suffice. If you can find it, Zeltinger

schlossberg Cabernet (German) would be delicious!


asparagus with Parmesan

Sufficient asparagus for 6 to 8 people (depending on the size of the asparagus and the appetites of the people)Rather over 1 cup of melted butter.Rather over 1 cup of grated Parmesan cheese.

• Paretheasparagusshootinthenormalwayandcutoffthehard,woodybottomsoftheshoots.Thenboilinsaltedwateruntiltender,firsttyingthemintoabundleandstandingthemuprightinasaucepan,sothatthestemsareboiled,whilethetipsaresteamed.Thisismucheasierifyouhaveanasparagusboiler.

• Twoorthreeminutesbeforetheyareready,takethemoutanddrainthemwell.Arrangetheshootsinalayeratthebottomofabutteredbakingdish,pourthemeltedbutteroverthemandsprinkletheParmesancheeseontop.

• Theovenshouldbepreheated,andwhentheasparagusisready,placeitinthebakingdishintheovenandcookat200ºcentigrade(Gas6)untilslightlybrown;usuallyabout8minutes.Thenserveimmediately.

Asparagus is thought to have come originally from Asia, and there are reports that it grew to a gigantic size in Libya in ancient times. It was a very favorite dish of the Romans, who used to dry it, and then, when required, soak it in water before cooking, rather as we do with dried fruit today. In the Middle Ages, it was grown near Venice and very much prized. It seems that varieties in those days were much larger than now and a single shoot is said to have weighed three pounds!

Asparagus with Parmesan is an Italian dish, which is delicious as the grated cheese brings out the flavor of the asparagus.


Bantry Bay scallops

280 milliliters (about 1/2 pint) of Vermouth (Dry Martini will do very well)12 Scallops14 ounces (440 grams) mushrooms3 3/4 ounces (120 grams) unsalted butter1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped or an equivalent quantity of chopped shallots1 heaped tablespoonful of flour3 egg yolks180 milliliters of double cream180 milliliters of dry white winea pinch of grated nutmegsalt and pepper to taste

• Cleanthescallopsverywellmakingsurethatnoneoftheblackmembraneremainsattached.ThencookthemgentlyintheVermouthinasaucepanfor10minutes.Remove,cuteachscallopintothreepiecesandkeepwarm.

• Washthemushroomswell(itisbesttousethelarge,openmushroomsratherthanthebuttonva-riety.Undernocircumstances,usetinnedmushrooms.)Slicethemushroomsandsautétheminhalfthequantityofbutterforaboutfiveminutes.Meanwhile,cookthechoppedonionorshallotstogetherwiththewhitewineinanothersaucepanfor15minutes.

• Nowheattherestofthebutterinalargesaucepanorskillet,andgraduallystirintheflour.Addthewinewiththeonionandstirinverywelluntiltherearenolumps.Strainintothispantheliquidfromthescallops(theVermouthinwhichthescallopshavebeencooked)andcontinuestirring.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.

• Beatthecreamandeggyolksuntilwellblendedandaddthistothesauceintheskillet.Reheat,it,butbecarefulnottoletitboil.

• Whenreadytoserve,putthescallopsinthecenterofalargeservingdish,surroundedbythemushroomsandpourthesauceoverthem,thenserveveryhot.

• Accompanywithplain,boiledrice.

This dish should serve 6 people.


supreme de Chocolat

This is a Parisian sweet, probably from that area called the Ile de France. Below is a rather simplified recipe of an elaborate dish served at the French Court before the Revolution. It is very easy and fairly quick to make, using a blender, but should be made one day before it is required to be eaten.

2 ounces (60 grams) of sweetened chocolate2 ounces (60 grams) of unsweetened chocolate7 tablespoons of softened butter2 tablespoons of brandy4 eggs, the yolks separated from the whites1/4 cup of sugar

• Meltthechocolate,bothsweetenedandunsweetened,inabowloverboilingwaterandmixthechocolatewelltogether.

• Mixinthesugar.Beatintheeggyolksonebyone.• Addthebrandyandthebutter.Blendthemixturewelltogether.• Beattheeggwhitesuntiltheyarestiffandfoldthemintothemixture.• Lightlyoilaquart(1liter)mouldandpourinthemixture.Putitinarefrigeratorand

chillitwellovernight.• Whenrequired,unmoldontoaservingdish,decoratewithcrystallizedviolets

androseleavesandservewiththickcream.

Menu No. 2

DInner

Jerusalem artichoke soup

roast Pheasant ormerod

hazelnut stuffing

Game Chips

Buttered fennel

autumn Mousse

suggested Wine: ideally a Chateau bottled Claret such as Cha-teau Talbot or Chateau Pichon. lalande, but any good Bordeaux

type wine will do.


Jerusalem artichoke soup

2 pounds (1 kilo) Jerusalem artichokes, washed and peeled (try to get the larger ones as it makes peeling rather easier)1 large Spanish onion, roughly chopped2 cloves of garlic, chopped2 sticks of celery with the leaves, roughly chopped4 ounces (125 grams) butter1 3/4 pints (1 liter) of chicken stock or stock cubes8 fluid ounces (1/4 liter) milk7 tablespoons of cream or stabilized Yoghurt (depending on personal taste)chopped parsley or chopped chives2 pinches of nutmeg

• Washandpeeltheartichokes,andcutthemup.• Putthemwiththechoppedonion,garlicandcelerywithtwoouncesofthebutterintoalarge

pan,coverandcookoveralowheatfor10minutes,givinganoccasionalstir.• Pourinhalfaliterofstockandsimmeruntilthevegetablesaresoft.Putthemixturethrougha

blenderuntilcompletelysmooth.• Reheat,addingtherestofthestockandthemilk.• Stirinthelasttwoouncesofbutter,thecreamorYoghurtandtheherbs;addthenutmeg,saltand

pepper.Reheat,butdonotallowtoboil.• Servewithsmallcroutonsoffriedbreadifdesired.• Thissoupisalsoexcellentchilledandservedcold,butinthiscaseitisbettertousechives

insteadofthechoppedparsleyandomitthecroutons.

Jerusalem Artichokes have nothing whatever to do with Jerusalem and they are not artichokes. In fact, they come from North America where they were eaten by the Indian tribes living along the Canadian/American border. They can be eaten raw in a salad, baked or made into a sort of porridge. One thing you cannot do is to put them into a stew. Once, my husband, who likes them very much, bought a few, cut them up and added them to a stew, which I was making with meat and other vegetables. He did not say anything to me, and the first I knew of this was when a really appalling smell came wafting out of my kitchen. At first, I thought that something very drastic had happened to the drains, but then tracked the origin of the stench to my beautiful stew. They had gone black, and one would have had to have found a very hungry dog prepared even to try them. Jerusalem artichokes however, make a good vegetable by themselves and also a really delicious soup, in fact, one of the best soups you can possibly make. This is how you do it.


ormerod Pheasants

2 young pheasants prepared for the oven1/2 cup of finely chopped parsley, chives and celery leaves1/2 pound (250 grams) shelled hazelnuts, coarsely chopped1 white bread roll soaked in milk and squeezed dry1 ounce or two tablespoons of butter1 egg, beaten1/4 cup of red wine4 slices of streaky bacon1 ounce or two tablespoons of melted butter1/2 cup sour cream for basting3 tablespoons of red currant jellysalt and pepper to taste

• Rubtheoutsideofthebirdswithsaltandpepperandtheinsidewithherbs.• Chopupthepheasantliversandmixwiththehazelnuts,thebreadroll,oneounceofthebutter,

thebeateneggandthe1/4cupofwine.Mixthisverythoroughlyandfillthecavitiesofboththebirdswithit.

• Lifttheskinawayfromeachcarcassandinsertpiecesofthebaconbetweentheskin andtheflesh.Smooththeskindownagain.

• Putthepheasantsonarackinaroastingtin,coverwithfoilandroastin amoderateovenfor20minutes.

• Removethefoil,brushthebirdsgenerouslywiththesourcreamandputthembackintheoven.Roastforanother20to30minutes(oruntilcooked),bastingtwicewithmeltedbutter.Removethebirdsfromtheovenandkeepwarm.

• Makeagravyfromtheliquidinthepan,collectinganysediment,strainthroughasieve,bringtotheboilandmixwiththeredcurrantjellyandalittlemoresourcream.Testforseasoningandserveinahotsauceboat.

• Servethepheasantswithgamechips(Frenchfries)anddecoratewithwatercress.(ItisnotworthmakingtheGameChipsyourselfbuteasiertobuythemandjustheatthemupbeforeserving.)

There is a tradition that pheasants were brought to Europe from Colchis in Asia Minor by the Argonauts, who went there to steal the Golden Fleece. Certainly they were prized by the Greeks, who kept them in cages and later by the Romans who reared them on a large scale. They were carried in cages in triumphal processions and they figured in banquets. There were also used, together with Guinea Fowl as birds of sacrifice and were slaughtered ritually on the altar to Caligula, once he had proclaimed himself a God and during his brief but bloody reign. The Roman Legions carried pheasants throughout Western Europe, and brought them to Britain. Pheasants were popular during the Middle Ages and there are very many excellent recipes for cooking them. The following is a recipe from my own family.


Buttered fennel

6 heads of fennel, trimmed1 large Spanish onion, chopped1 clove of garlic, crushed100 grams (4 ounces) of butterchopped fennel leavessalt and pepper

• Slicethefennelheads,butnottoothinly.Cooktheminsaltedwatergentlyuntiljusttender.• Inthemeantime,softentheonionandgarlicinhalfthebutter,inaskillet.• Whencooked,addthedrainedfennelandtherestofthebutter.Simmeruncovereduntilthe

fennelisverytender.• Seasonandsprinklewiththefinelychoppedfennelleaves.• Serveveryhot.


autumn Mousse

1 pound (1/2 kilo) cooking apples8 ounces (250 grams) blackberries, fresh or tinneda little water or the juice from the blackberries if tinned4 ounces (125 grams) castor sugar1/2 ounce (15 grams) gelatin powder (or one envelope)2 egg whites2 tablespoons of Calvados

• Washandpeeltheapples,cuttingthemintoquarters.Puttheminapanwithalittlewater,orthejuicefromthetinnedblackberries,andmostofthesugar.Addtheblackberries,wellwashediffresh.Cookgentlyuntilthefruitissoft.

• Liquidizeandstrainintoalargebasin.Dissolvethegelatininalittlewaterandstirintothefruit.• Whenitiscold,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiffandthenfoldintothefruitpureewiththere-

mainingsugarandtheCalvados.• Pourintoaservingdishandchilluntilrequired.

Menu No. 3

lunCheon

Melon with Parma ham

Pheasant risotto

Green Peas

Vanilla Ice Cream with Chocolate sauce

suggested Wine: a red, white or rose wine such as rene Barbier may be served with this luncheon.


Melon with Parma ham

Thisdishissowellknownthatitrequiresnoexplanation.Asavariation,youcanserveGreenFigswheninseasonwithParmaHam,whichisalsoexcellent.Itisaneasydishtomakeandcanbepreparedwellinadvance.Thehammustbecutverythinandis

usuallyrolledandservedwithslicesofmeloninthecenterofthedishsurroundedbyrollsofslicedham.

Pheasant risotto

This is one of my very favorite dishes and it is not just a way of using up leftovers. however, you may well have some of the pheasant left after the Dinner and this is a marvelous way of using it.

1 1/2 pints (30 fluid ounces or 3 cups) of strong pheasant stock6 ounces (185 grams) or more if you have it, diced pheasant meat4 shallots, chopped2 onions, small, chopped3 tablespoons pine nuts3 tablespoons raisins, previously soaked for 1/2 hour in hot water1 tablespoon tomato concentrate6 ounces diced Chinese mushrooms, soaked for 1/2 hour in boiling water. When cooked, strain andreserve this water3 cups Arborial Rice (or Uncle Ben’s rice)3 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese, grated4 ounces (125 grams) of buttersalt and pepper

• Preparestock-takeallthemeatoffthecarcassandthelegs,removinganysinewsorskin,anddiceitratherfinely.

• Withthecarcassesofthepheasants,makeagood,strongstockusingacarrot,anonion(allchopped),alittleparsley,abouquetgarniandachickencube,andenoughwatertoprovideagood11/2pintsor30fluidouncesorthreegoodcupsofthestock-11/2pints(30fluidouncesor3cups)ofstrongpheasantstock.

• Inaskillet,melt3ounces(90grams)ofbutter.Addthechoppedonionsandshallots,cookuntilgolden.Addtheuncookedriceandstircontinuouslyuntilallthericehasbeenverywellcoveredbythebutter.Nowadd1/2pint(10fluidouncesor1cup)ofthepheasantstockandalsoabout1/2cupofthestrainedwaterinwhichthemushroomshavebeensoaked.Continuecookingoveramediumheat.Whenthisliquidhasbeenabsorbed,lowertheheatalittle.

• Inaseparatepan,melttheremainingbutter(1ounceor30grams)andcookthechopped,driedmushrooms(whichhavebeenpreviouslysoaked).Thiswillonlytaketwoorthreeminutes.Thenaddthepinenuts,thepheasantmeatandtheraisins(alsopreviouslysoakedanddrained).Heatthisallthroughthoroughlyoverafairlylowheat.

• Whenthericeiscookedandhasabsorbedallthestock,addonetablespoonoftomatoconcentrate(puree),andthenalltheotheringredients:mushrooms,pheasantmeat,pinenutsandraisins.Stirlightlywithaforkuntilwellmixed,sprinklewiththegratedParmesanandstirwellagain.

• Transfertoaheatedservingdishandserveveryhot.You can make this risotto using duck, chicken, turkey or guinea fowl, but it is best with pheasant.


Green Peas

Always boil peas with a little sugar in the water, and also a small sprig of fresh mint.

Vanilla Ice Cream with hot Chocolate sauce

This is a very well known dish and requires no explanation. It makes an excellent luncheon sweet, and will balance nicely with the Melon and ham as well as the Pheasant risotto. always serve the hot chocolate sauce separately in a large sauce boat.

To make the Chocolate Sauce, take:100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) of plain chocolate180 grams (6 ounces) of castor sugar155 grams (5 ounces) of single cream or evaporated tinned milk1 tablespoon of strong coffee1 teaspoon of ruma pinch of salt

• Inadoubleboileroverboilingwater,meltthechocolate.Thenaddthesugar,stiritwell,coveritandletitcookinthedoubleboilerfor30minutes.Thenaddthecream(orevaporatedmilk),therum,coffeeandsalt.

• Removeitfromtheheatandletitstand,stirringoccasionally,untilitthickens.• Youcanalsofreezethesauceifyouwishanditmaybeservedhotorcold.


CasTle In flaMesMy husband and I were traveling up to Madrid for New Year’s Day some years ago, and

arranged to spend the night of the New Year at the Castle of Oropessa. We used to do this whenever we drove to Madrid, leaving late after luncheon, arriving in the evening at Oropessa in time to have a rest, a bath and change before dinner. Then we would leave the following morning after breakfast to be in Madrid and comfortable for luncheon. Oropessa had once belonged to the Alvarez de Toledo family, Viceroys of Spain in the New World, but, since the Civil War, had gradually been transformed into a government run Parador, beautiful, quiet and very comfortable. He had telephoned for reservations, and was not very pleased to be told that the entire hotel had been booked by some French millionaire to accommodate a huge shooting party, with their wives and friends, which he was bringing down in his private jet from Paris. However, we knew the Manager of the Parador very well, and had been clients for many years. He told us that he had a double room and bath for us, but as the French party had booked up the whole place and ordered a huge table running the entire length of the dining room would we mind sitting with the Manager, his wife, family and some of the members of staff of the hotel for the New Year’s dinner. We said that we would be delighted if this did not inconvenience them.

We were sitting in the bar before dinner when the shooting party returned and we soon became aware that there had been some accident followed by a most tremendous row. Quite what it was all about, we were never able to discover, but it apparently concerned an Ambassador, a member of the shooting party, who had returned to the hotel and was skulking in his room and refusing to come out, and at the same time demanding a car to take him back to Madrid to the airport there. Various attempts were being made to persuade him to come out and rejoin the party, but he refused and dinner went ahead without him. The French party consisted of some 35 people and the great dining hall of the castle had all been decorated for the occasion.

Our own table was at the end of the room, well out of the way, and there we had a very nice dinner with the Manager and some of the staff. At the conclusion of the dinner, all the lights were turned out except for the candles on the tables, the great doors at the end of the room were thrown open and the piece de resistance was brought in.

It was in fact on of the most wonderful things that I have ever seen; a model made in sugar of the castle, but made in the most minute detail and measuring about eight feet long by six feet wide. This enormous and really very beautiful object was carried in by half a dozen waiters and placed on tressels at the end of the hall. There was hush of expectancy, the Manager got up and made a little speech about this masterpiece called the “Castle in Flames”, and then suddenly it was burning. I suppose that it had been soaked in brandy, and, of course, under the sugar there was a cake, which would have been cut up for the French party.

It was really quite remarkably beautiful, and there was great applause which died away as flames leapt up from the great cake and caught onto paper decorations put up for the New Year’s celebrations. From there, they caught onto the tablecloth and from there onto more decorations. A waiter standing by it lost his head and poured the first bottle that came to hand, over the cake. Unfortunately, it was brandy and a sheet of flame shot up and ran over the floor. By this time, it was not just a question of “The Castle in Flames” being alight but the castle itself was alight too! The French party ran about overturning chairs, the women let drive with some maximum decibel screams, waiters tried to beat out the fire and squirted soda siphons, but all in vain. By this time, the end of the great hall was blazing quite well when somebody arrived with a foam extinguisher. This did the trick, but made quite a mess, and I don’t think that my suggestion that the piece de resistance could now be renamed “The Castle Under Snow” was thought to be at all funny.

Menu No. 4

DInner

ham Mousse

Quails on their nests with White Grapes

Cauliflower Polonaise

fondant Potatoes

syllabub Creole

suggested Wine: Pinot Grigot, served well chilled.


ham Mousse

There are many good recipes for this, but I think this is the best one and has the merit of being easy to make.

1 pound (500 grams) lean, cooked ham without fat2 eggs1 1/2cups (350 milliliters or 12 fluid ounces) of chicken stock1/2 ounce (15 grams) of gelatin powder1/2 cup (125 milliliters or 4 fluid ounces) of brandy1/2 cup (125 milliliters or 4 fluid ounces) of double creamA little black pepper

• Mincethehamveryfinely.Thisshouldprovideabout4cupsofmincedham.• Makethechickenstock(onechickencubeorchickenstockmaker),• Separatetheeggs.• Heatthechickenstockandsprinklewiththegelatinpowderandthencombinecarefullywiththe

yolksofthetwoeggs.Putononesidetocool.• Whipthecreamandbeattheeggwhitesuntilverystiff.• Whenthechickenstockandgelatinbeginstothicken,mixthemincedhamtogetherwiththe

1/2cupofwhippedcream,the1/2cupofbrandyandthestifflybeateneggwhites,inthatorder.Now,mixinthechickenstockandgelatinliquidandstiralltogetherverywell.

• Wetamouldthoroughlyandspooninthemixture.• Chillintherefrigeratoruntilfirm.• Whenrequired,turnoutontoaservingdish,decoratewithwatercressandservewithagreen

salad.


Quails on Their nests

This is a family recipe for cooking quail. It is a pretty dish and makes an excellent main course for an important dinner party. one should be careful with flambé dishes. These can vary from the Christmas Pudding, soused with brandy and set alight to elaborate set pieces of sugar and confectionery made by Master confectioners, brought in at the end of great banquets and then set alight in some great, darkened, banqueting hall to the applause of the guests.

6 or 12 quail (American quail are larger than their European counterpart, and while one per person will be sufficient with the European quail, allow one for two persons with the American)

75 grams (2 1/2 ounces) of butter3 tablespoons of brandy150 grams (5 ounces) of white Muscatel grapesl of a glass of dry, white wine6 half loaves of white bread (see below)salt and pepper

• Cleanthequailandsaltandpepperthem.• Heatthebutterandoliveoilinaskillet.Addthebirdsandbrownthemcarefullyonallsides.

Thisshouldtakeabout12minutes.• Heatthebrandy,pouritoverthebirdsandflambéthem.Addthewhitewine,pouringitoverthe

birds.• Coverandleavetosimmerfor5minutesoralittlelongerinthecaseofthelargerAmericanbirds.• Heatalittlebutterinasmallpanandaddthegrapepips.Coverandleavetocookfor5minutes.

Thenstrain,removethegrapepipsandcookthegrapesinthebutteronaverylowheatuntilhot.Thenaddthemtothequailandcookalltogetherforanothertwoorthreeminutes.

• Preparethebreadcases(seenextpage)andfrytheminbutterandoliveoiluntiltheyaregoldenbrownonallsides.

• Whenallisready,putoneAmericanortwoEuropeanquailintoeachfriedbreadboxtogetherwithsomeofthegrapes.Pourhotcookingjuicesoverthemandserveveryhot.


The Bread Boxes

The quail covered with the white grapes and juices from the cooking are put in each of the fried bread boxes, which are placed on a large serving dish and surrounded by watercress for decoration. These are made from square, white bread loaves.

• Removethecrustfromallsidesandthencutthemintoverythickslicesabout3inchesthick.• Carefullyremovethebreadfromthecentersofeachslicesoastoleavehollow,openboxes.These

arethenfriedassetoutabove.note: If you find it a nuisance to make the bread boxes, you can also serve the quail just on fairly thick slices of white, fried bread. In this case, put the grapes on the fried bread, and the quail on top of the grapes and pour the sauce over them when serving.

Cauliflower Polonaise

3/4 cup parsley, chopped. Put on one side.1 cup dried bread crumbs4 ounces (125 grams) butter

• Trim2medium-sizedcauliflowersofallgreenleavesandboiltheminsaltedwateruntiltender.• Meanwhile,hardboilthreeeggsandremovetheshells.Chopthemroughlyandputononeside.• Whenthecauliflowersarecooked,gentlyremovethefloweretsandarrangetheminanoven-

proofdish.Ontop,putoneounce(30grams)ofbutterinlittlepieces.• Spreadthechoppedhardboiledeggasalayerontopofthecauliflower,thenspreadthechopped

parsleyasalayerontopofthehardboiledegg,andfinallyspreadalayerofbreadcrumbsovertheparsley.

• Sofar,thedishmaybepreparedwellinadvance.Whenrequired,heattheremainingbutter,threeounces(95grams)andpouritevenlyoverthetopofthedish.

• Placethedishinapre-heatedovenforabout20minutesatGasMark7(220ºCentigradeor425ºFahrenheit.)Serveveryhot.

At one time, quails were considered to be a cure for epilepsy and also to be able to restore life to the dead. It seems that Hercules, the great hero of ancient mythology, was on one occasion killed, but his friend, Iolaus, who immediately took and roasted a quail, which happened to be ready at hand, and wafted it under the dead hero’s nose. Hercules im-mediately returned from the dead, and presumably devoured the quail. Some skeptics doubted this miracle and maintained that Hercules had had an epileptic fit.

The Greeks raised quails in cages and ate them the year round; they were also used for quail fights, rather as cocks were used later, as quails are very aggressive little birds.

The Romans on the other hand, would not eat quail, as they believed that the meat actu-ally caused epilepsy. Thus quail for many years, flourished unmolested in Italy. Later gourmets overcame this prejudice and quail returned as a delicacy to Roman tables.


fondant Potatoes

3 pounds (1 1/4 kilos) boiling potatoes3 1/2 ounces (105 grams) butter7 tablespoons oil

• Peelthepotatoesandcutthemintoquarters.Roundofftheedgeswithaknifeandputthemintocold,saltedwaterinasaucepanandputontheheat.Bringthemtotheboilandcookthemintheboilingwaterfor5minutes.Removefromtheheatanddrainthoroughly.

• Heatthebutterandoilinaheavysaucepan,addthepotatoesandsautéthemwellonamoderateheat,takingcarethattheydonotbrowntoomuch.

• Addsaltandpeppertotaste,reducetheheatandcoverthepan.• Cookthepotatoesveryslowlyforafurtherhour,shakingthepanfromtimetotime.• Afewminutesbeforeservingadd6teaspoonsofwater,whichthepotatoeswill

absorbimmediately.• Servehot.

syllabub Creole

2 egg whites2 ounces (60 grams) castor sugar1 miniature bottle or a jigger of Tia Maria Liqueur1 1/2 teaspoon of instant coffee powder

• Whiptheeggwhitesinabowluntilstiff.• Inanotherbowl,whipalltheotheringredientstogetheruntilsmooth.Thenfoldintheegg

whites.Refrigerateinsyllabubglassesorbowls.

This syllabub can be made with other liqueurs, such as Grand Marnier, Kummel or Kirsch, but of course omit the coffee powder!

Syllabub is an old sweet and it was a great favorite in the 18th and early 19th centuries. The old syllabub glasses are difficult to find now, but the best equivalent today are the continental champagne glasses, the tall thin ones, rather than the flat bowl type of “tazza” glasses which are more com-monly used for champagne in Britain and America.

You may have some of the Ham Mousse left over from the Dinner, or you may have made some extra deliberately so as to use it for the following suggested Luncheon Menu.

Menu No. 5

lunCheon

Tuna fish salad with endives

ham and eggs "neopolitan style"

fried Zucchini

french fried Potatoes

Caramelled Bananas with Cream

suggested Wine: a fresh white wine from alsace or Mo-selle, or perhaps from the loire.

a tuna fish salad requires no explanation and most people have varieties of their own. Personally, I like

tuna fish, chopped spring onions, a crisp lettuce and an all-i-oli sauce, with a few olives.


all-i-oli sauce

2 egg yolks1 tablespoon lemon juice2 cloves garlic, peeled1 1/2 cups (15 fluid ounces or 450 milliliters) good olive oil at room temperaturesalt to tastea few drops of cold water

• Itisveryimportantindeedthattheoilshouldbefirstqualityoliveoilandthatitshouldbeatroomtemperature.

• Putthegarlicclovesinamortarwithafewdropsoflemonjuiceandafewdropsofwater.Withthepestle,grindupthegarlicclovesreallywell.

• Transfertotheblender.Addtheeggyolksandblend.Continueblendingwhileaddingtheoliveoilverygradually.Continueblendingandaddtherestofthelemonjuiceandthesalttotaste.

• Thesaucewillthenbeready.

The salad

a good quality tinned tuna fish, lettuce, olives and one or two bunches of spring onions, cleaned and chopped.

• MakeasaladwithallthisandpourtheAll-i-olimayonnaiseoverit.

There are several ways of preparing this sauce; basically it is a garlic mayonnaise. Of course, there are some people who very much dislike garlic. King Alfonso of Castille disliked it so much that none of his Knights who had eaten garlic during the past month were allowed in his presence. As this was in the 14th century, and the entire Court was probably pretty gamey, it does empha-size a very strong abhorrence for the stuff. Some of the All-I-oli recipes are very strong indeed, but here’s one which is excellent and fairly mild! All-I-oli is a Catalan sauce, and they like it very strong. In Andalusia it is milder and called Ajiaceite.


neapolitan ham and eggs

• SpreadslicesoftoastfairlythicklywiththeHamMousse,leftoverfromtheDinner.Ontopofeachpieceoftoastcoveredwiththemousse,putafriedegg.

• Overthis,pourahottomatosauceorketchup,andserveveryhot.

fried Zucchini (Courgettes)

Zucchini or Courgettes were never seen in Britain, or, I think, america, much before the 1939-45 war. In Italy, we have always had them and they are a very common vegetable.

• Choosesmall,youngzucchini;donotpeelthem,butslicethemintosticksabouta1/2centimeteroraquarterofaninchlong.Coverthemwithsaltandallowthemtodry.

• Allowthemtostandunderthesaltforawhileandthenwashthemwell,drythem,flourthemandtipthemintofairlydeep,boilingoil.Onlyfrythemforaminuteortwountiltheyaretender.

french fried Potatoes

require no explanation

Caramelled Bananas with Cream

This is a very simple dish, as with most of the luncheon dishes.

• Peelthebananasandsplitthemdownlengthways.Arrangetheminashallow,heatproofdish.Coverthemwellwithbutterandthenthicklywithbrownsugar.

• Puttheminpreheatedovenuntiltheyarecooked.(Mediumoven,about10minutes)• Serveveryhot,butwithcreamwhichhasbeenwellchilled.


The GuesTsIt is sometimes said that it is the guests who “make” the Dinner. This may be true

of a cannibal feast, but not otherwise, as even the most brilliant, witty and interesting guest will become numbed when confronted by Dish Water Soup, followed by grey, soggy and tepid Fish Fingers and a scrawny Chicken which apparently died during one of the Egyptian dynasties and has been embalmed ever since.

I believe that the guests and the food are complimentary to each other, and that the taste and presentation of one will improve the wit and interest of the other.

Some hostesses entertain because they must; they entertain other diplomats or their husband’s business associates, many of whom are quite lacking in charm or interest., This duty of entertaining can be tedious especially when the guests, for all they know or care, might as well be eating boiled blotting paper.

Then there are dinners where the hostess selects the guests whom she thinks will entertain each other and whom she herself wishes to entertain.

There are the dinners to which a special guest has been invited who is expected to entertain the rest. The others have been asked to meet him because he has had some interesting experience or has some specialized knowledge, or perhaps is a known raconteur, who will tell amusing stories and entertain the whole table.

There are dinner parties of close friends, the best, and sometimes there are dinner parties given to amuse the hostess, and to which she deliberately invites people whose interaction between each other she wishes to observe.

In this last category must come a rather odd luncheon party, which an eccentric friend of ours gave some years ago. It seems that our friend had incurred the displeasure of the British Ambassador, a man well known for being stuffy, pompous and without any sense of humour. The Ambassador, rather undiplomatically, had mentioned to some people that he considered our eccentric friend to be a lunatic, “and most of his friends as well”. The people to whom this remark was made lost no time in reporting it and our friend, who we will call Francis, was not amused.

There was living in the town at the time a certain Mr. Matness, and Francis scraped an acquaintance with him. There was also a well known Professor of Belles Lettres at the University called Professor Lupe. The telephone directory revealed the presence of a Doctor Potti who was a lawyer and Francis lost not time in making the acquaintance of the professor and the lawyer. Finally he discovered a Goanese doctor called Dhotti who he immediately went to see.

Some weeks later he laid a trap for the Ambassador and invited him to luncheon in such a way that the Ambassador could hardly refuse. On the appointed day, the Ambassador arrived at Francis’ house and was shown into the Drawing Room where Francis greeted him saying, “Good afternoon, your Excellency, may I introduce you to my friends, Professor Lupe, Doctor Dhotti, Doctor Potti and Mr. Matness (he pronounced it ‘madness’). I have been told that you know my friends.”

The Ambassador turned purple with embarrassment and rage and left immediately in a huff. As he did so, he heard Francis saying in a clear and ringing voice. “I do apologize for the Ambassador, I can’t think what is the matter with him. I think that he must be mad.”

Menu No. 6

DInner

Cold Cucumber soup

steak alla Diavola

Creamed leek

riced Potatoes

fresh Pears in lemon sauce

suggested Wine: a french burgundy, Volnay or Moulin a Vent, with the main course, or an Italian Villa anto-

rini Chianti. The same white wine could be served again with the pears or a dry, light white wine such as frascati

or Marques de la Murietta Blanco


hamer’s Cucumber soup

This soup has the very great advantage in that it is equally excellent hot or cold. for this menu, I suggest that it is cold. It was given to me very many years ago by the Duchess of Croy, who always kept a very good table and had some delicious recipes.

2 Cucumbersa dash of vinegar4 ounces (125 grams) of butter2 pints (1.1 liters) of good chicken stock1/4 cup white bread crumbs1/4 cup milk2 medium onions, chopped very finelysalta pinch of sugar5 tablespoons cream, sweet or sour as you prefera little chopped dill if you like it

• Peel2cucumbersandcutthemintosmallpieces,removealltheseeds,andboilthepiecesofde-seededandpeeledcucumbersinwatertowhichhasbeenaddedadashofvinegarfor3minutes.

• Drainthemwellandputthemintoasaucepanwith4ouncesofbutter,andheat.Whenthebutterhasmelted,addthe2pintsofchickenstock(3cubes).Addthe2onions,cutupveryfinelyand1/4cupbreadcrumbswhichyoupreviouslysoakedforafewminutesinthe1/4cupofmilk.Addpepperandsaltifyouareusingachickenstock,butdonotaddanysaltifyouareusingthestockcubes,astheyaresaltyenough.

• Bringthewholemixturetotheboilandsimmeronareducedheatfor10minutes,stirringocca-sionally.Strain,orputthroughablenderandthenaddtothesoupthe5tablespoonsofcream.

• Putthesoupintherefrigeratorandchillthoroughly.• Beforeserving,sprinklethesoupwithalittlechoppeddill.


steak alla Diavola

There are probably as many ways of cooking steaks as there are days in the year. This is one which is rather different and which I like very much. It is a traditional dish from Bologna in Italy, which is renowned as the gastronomic capital of Italian food. It is also not far from florence, which claims to have been the birthplace of the T-bone steak.

6 rump steaks each about 3/4 inch (20 mm) thick300 milliliters (11 fluid ounces) red wine300 milliliters (11 fluid ounces) dry Marsala6 tablespoons of olive oil2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and very finely chopped2 tablespoons concentrated tomato puree, diluted in an equal quantity of waterJust under 1/2 teaspoonful of very finely chopped chili (These are the little dried chilies and not the powdered chili in jars)3 tablespoons chopped parsley2 teaspoons of fennel seed salt and pepper

• Takeaverylargefryingpan,bigenoughtoholdallthesteaksifpossible.Heattheoiluntilveryhotandtheentirebottomofthepaniswellcoatedwithit.Thenaddthemeatandcookoveraveryhighheatfor3minutesoneachside.Turndowntheheatsothattheoildoesnotburn,andcontinuetocookthesteaksuntiltheyaredone.Seasonthemasrequiredwithsaltandpepperandputtheminaservingdish.Keepwarm.

• Removefromthepanmostoftheremainingfat,leavingonlyabout3tablespoonfuls.TurntheheatuptohighandaddtheMarsalaandtheredwine.Bringtotheboilandcontinuetoboilforabout1/2minute,scrapingthebottomofthepanwithawoodenspoontoloosenanythingadheringtothebot-tom.Addthechoppedgarlic,andstirinbriefly,thendothesamewithfennelseed.Addthetomatopuree(dilutedinanequalquantityofwater)andthechoppedchilies.Turntheheatdownandcon-tinuetocookfor11/2minutes,bywhichtimethesauceshouldhavethickened.

• Addthesteakstothehotsauceandturnthemsothattheyarewellcoatedandveryhot.• Returnthesteaksandthesaucetotheservingdish,sprinklewiththeparsleyandserveveryhot.

note: since writing this, I have read Maria hazan’s excellent book on Italian Cookery and see that there is an almost identical recipe for this dish. however, it was first made for me some 35 years ago by lisa Cuc-cato, our family cook in Italy.


Coulis of leeks

originally, like most leek dishes, this came from Wales and it is an excellent vegetable dish with meat or poultry.

2 1/2 pounds (just over 1 kilo) of leeks, without the coarse, green tops1 cup (250 milliliters or 8 fluid ounces) of double cream3 ounces (90 grams) buttera pinch of nutmega little black pepper

• Havingremovedthecoarse,greenleavesatthetopsoftheleeks,nowpartlyslitthemdownfromthetopinordertobeabletocleanthemverythoroughlyandremoveanyearthbetweentheleaves.Sliceofftheendoftherootandcuttheleeksveryfinely.Afoodprocessorcanalsobeused,butmakesuretheslicesareasthinaspossible.

• Heatthebutterinapanandaddtheleeks.Cookoveramoderateheatfor10to12minutes,stir-ringfrequently.Whentheyaresoftandcookedthrough,addthecreamandcontinuetocookuntilthemixtureinthepanhasthickened.Sprinklealittlenutmegandfresh,blackpepperandserveveryhot.

riced Potatoes

• Boilthepotatoesinsaltedwateruntilcooked.Drainthemwellandkeepwarm.• Whenrequired,putthroughaRicer.ThisiscalledaSCHIACCIAPATATEinItalian,anditisa

standardpieceofkitchenequipmentinItaly.• ItshouldbepossibletofinditinshopselsewhereinEuropeandinAmericaspecializingin

kitchenequipment,anditisausefulutensiltohave.• Inthefirstplace,itmakesafewpotatoesgoalongwayanditgivesapleasant,fluffyconsistency

tothepotatoesanditalsolooksveryniceontheservingdish.


fresh Pears with a spiced sauce

This is a very simple recipe, but none of the less delicious for that. It is an english 18th century way of eat-ing pears and one of the very best.

The sauCe3 lemons1 teaspoonful cinnamon1 tablespoon of very finely chopped preserved ginger

• Takeandpeel6good,ripepears.Makesurethattheyareeatingpearsandnotcookingpears!Cuttheminhalfandremovethecoresandthencutthemintoquarters.

• Combinethelemonjuice,cinnamonandgingerandmixverywell.Thenputthemixtureinasaucepanandheatoveralowgasfor2or3minutes.Putasidetocool.

• Arrangethepearslicesinaservingdish,pouroverthesauceandputintherefrigerator.• Chillfor1/2anhourbeforeserving.

note: You can adjust the spices according to your personal taste.

Menu No. 7

DInner

smoked salmon Mousse

Beef olives Marques de rio Castel

fried Potato Balls

sliced Carrots

Glazed Grapes with Cassis

suggested Wine: a Chambertain or Marques de riscal (spanish red). as a treat with the Grapes, “Baume de

Venise”, a glorious french Muscatel.


smoked salmon Mousse

This is an excellent dish for a Buffet supper Party or as a first course for luncheon or dinner. You can often obtain off-cuts or smoked salmon bits from the fishmonger a good deal cheaper and they will do very well.

3/4 pint (450 milliliters or 1 1/2 cups) strong chicken stock3 tablespoons dry white wine1 teaspoon mustard powder1 pound (500 grams) smoked salmon1/2 pint (1 cup or 300 milliliters) double cream2 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice4 eggs, whites only1/2 ounce (15 grams) of gelatin

• Dissolvethegelatininthewhitewinebypouringthewineintoabowlandputtingthisoverasaucepanorveryhotwater,keptjustatboilingpoint.Sprinklethegelatinoverthewineandstiroccasionallyuntildissolved.

• Ifusingastockcube,dissolveoneinthe3/4pintofwater.• Removeanylittlepiecesofskinorbonefromthesmokedsalmonandputitinablender.• Addthestocktothegelatinmixtureandnowgraduallyaddthistothesalmonintheblender,

blendinguntilitisasmoothpaste.Blendinthelemonjuiceandthemustardpowder.• Beatthecreamuntilitisfairlystiffandthenfolditintothesalmonmixture.Whisktheegg

whitesuntiltheyarealsostiffandfoldthemintothemixturecarefullyusingametalspoon.• Pourthemixtureintoasuitabledish,suchasasoufflédish,andrefrigerateitforatleasttwo

hours,butpreferablyovernight.• Decoratethemoussewithgherkinsandslicedhardboiledeggs.


Beef olives, Marques de rio Castel

spanish cooking is generally not very highly considered, although there are some extremely good dishes. This is a recipe which came from one side of my husband’s family, but it is probably of french origin. for me, it is one of the most delicious beef dishes in existence.

3 pounds (1.3 kilos) of lean topside of beef9 ounces (230 grams) of minced veal1 large Spanish onion1 clove of garlic, finely chopped6 ounces (150 grams) of sliced mushrooms

(try to buy the large open ones rather than button mushrooms)1 egg6 ounces (150 grams) of ham9 or 10 pickled walnuts

(ideally these should be black truffles and the original recipe calls for these but they have become so expensive that pickled walnuts will make a good substitute)

1 teaspoon of marjoram, chopped1/2 teaspoon thyme, chopped1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped500 milliliters good veal stock1 glass red wine2 or 3 mint leaves, very finely choppedsalt and peppermustard, any herbal mustard

• Thebeefshouldbefirstcutintothinslicesorscallopsandbeatenwithawoodenmallettoten-derizeit.Spreadonesideofeachscallopwiththemustardandputtooneside.

• Chopupthemushroomsandtheonion,removeanyfatfromthehamandchopitfinely.Breakupthepickledwalnutsintoverysmallpiecesandmixthemushrooms,theonion,thehamandthecrushedwalnutswiththemincedveal.Thenmixinthechoppedmintleaves,themarjoram,thethymeandtheparsleyandseasonthemixturetotaste.

• Beatuptheeggandmixitwellintothemixtureinordertobindit.Placeaquantityofthestuff-ingmixtureinthecenterofeachscallopormeatandwrapthemeatrounditsecuringthemeatwithoneortwowoodentoothpicks.Seethatthestuffingdoesnotprotrudefromtheendsoftherolls.

• Placetherollsinalargeovenproofdish,pourinthewineandthestockandcoverthedish.PutitintheovenandbakeitslowlyatGas3or180ºCentigradeforabout11/2hours.

• Serveveryhot.It is also excellent cold, for a cold buffet dinner.


The stock (Broth)

Much of the secret of this dish lies in the veal stock.

• Obtainafewvealbonesfromthebutcher(orbeefboneswilldoifvealisunavailable).Puttheminapanwithalittleoliveoil(orcornoil)andbakethemintheovenatGas6(200ºCentigradeor400ºFahrenheit)untilthebonebeginstobrown.

• Puttheminasaucepanonthestovetogetherwithachoppedcarrot,onelargeonion(roughlychopped),aturnip,andaleek.Letthevegetablessweatfor1/2hour.Addtwopintsofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reduceheatandallowtosimmerforabout2hoursoruntilthestockthickens.

• Whenready,strainintoabasin,addsaltandpeppertotaste,andwhencold,putintotherefrig-erator.

• Thiswillalwaysprovideyouwithanexcellentbaseforsaucesorforanydishwherestockisre-quired.Itisalittletimeconsumingtomakethisstockbutittastessomuchbetterthananycube,thatitiswellworthwhilemakingit.

note: If the other vegetables are not available, 2 carrots, 2 onions and a little parsley will suffice.

fried Potato Balls

This is an austrian dish, but it goes well with the beef rolls.

2 pounds (1 kilo) potatoes2 ounces (60 grams) flour5 tablespoons milk2 ounces (60 grams) white bread crumbssalt and pepper

• Peelthepotatoes,andthen,withagrater,gratethemintocoldwater.Alternativelyyoucanuseafoodprocessortogratethem,thendropthegratedpotatointocoldwater.

• Takethemoutofthewaterafterashortwhile,andwraptheminbuttermuslin.Squeezeallthewateroutofthemandputtheminabowl,addthebreadcrumbs,flour,andseasontotastewiththesaltandpepper.Thenaddthemilkuntilthepotatoesarewellboundtogether.

• Extractquantitiesaboutthesizeofahen’segg,squeezeeachonewelltogetheranddropthemintoboilingfatuntiltheyarebrowned.Removewithaslottedspoonandputthembackonthebuttermuslintodrain.

• Arrangethemonadish,andbeforeserving,putthemintheovenforafewminutestoreheat.note: Butter muslin is also known as cheesecloth.


Glazed Grapes with Cassis

Duck is very often served with an orange salad, and there are a number of very good french recipes for duck, some with orange, some with olives, and there are some restaurants which make a specialty of duck and serve nothing else. The Chinese Peking Duck is a marvelous dish, but difficult to prepare well. The Portu-guese serve duck with rice and black olives, and the traditional english way of serving roast duck is with apple sauce and green peas.

1 1/2 pounds (750 grams) white grapes (or black)1/2 pint (1 cup or 300 milliliters or 10 fluid ounces ) double cream4 full tablespoons Cassis liqueur6 tablespoons Demerara Sugar

• Removethepipsfromthegrapes,cuttingtheminhalf,butleavingtheirskins.PutthemintoashallowbowlwiththeCassisliqueurandleaveforanhour.Whipthecreamuntilitisstiff.

• Whentheyhavebeenmarinated,putthegrapesandtheliqueurintoaheatproofflandishandspoonthewhippedcreamevenlyoverthetop.

• Putthedishintherefrigeratorandleaveitthereuntilitisverycold.• Preheatthegrillandwhenitishot,sprinkletheDemerarasugarevenlyalloverthetopofthe

creaminthedish,thenputitunderthegrill.Leaveitthereforaveryshorttime,justuntilthesugarhasdissolved,andwhilstthisishappening,watchitconstantlyasitburnsveryeasily.Whenthesugarhasdissolvedandspreadoverthecream,takethedishfromunderthegrillandputitbackintherefrigeratoruntilyourequireitforthetable.

• Serveitverycold.note: You should be able to buy miniature Cassis bottles from a wine merchant. a good one is Crème de Dijon sIsCa made by lejay-lagoute.

Menu No. 8

DInner

russian Borsch soup

roast Ducks with a Morello Cherry sauce

Garden Peas

riced Potatoes

Greek honey sweet

suggested Wine: With the ducks, a good claret or burgundy. With the sweet, a dry white wine.


russian Borsch soup (Made with Wine)

This is an old, traditional russian recipe and it makes a most delicious borsch.

2 pints (1 liter ) of good, strong meat stock2 medium sized beetroot1/2 pint (or 1/4 liter) white wine1/2 lemon1/4 pound (120 grams) finely chopped ham1/4 pint (5 fluid ounces or 150 milliliters) sour cream

• Baketherawbeetsinahotovenallowingrathermoretimethanyouwouldforpotatoesofthesamesize.

• Whentheyarewellcooked,peelthemandcutthemintothinstrips.• Putthestripsofbeetintoapan,addthewine,thelemonjuice,choppedhamandthehotstock.

Seasonwithsaltandblackpepperandallowtostandfor1to2hours.• Heatthroughwhenrequiredandservewithsourcream.Mixthesourcreamwellintothesoup.• Asadecoration,itlooksnicewithafewfinelychoppedchivesontopofthesoup.

In the days of Ancient Greece, ducks featured prominently on the tables of rich Greeks and Plutach gave them to his family when they were ill, saying that he, his family and his whole household kept themselves in good health due to eating duck. Mithridates VI, the King of Pontus in about 100 BC was terrified of poisons (probably with good reason) and mixed the flesh of duck with everything that he ate as he believed it to be an antidote to all poison. Hippocrates thought that the meat of duck was nasty and indigestible, and Avicenna, the Arab philosopher and physician who lived at Cordoba in about 1000 AD, believed that eating duck caused fever. Certainly the Ancient Egyptians ate them and they have been highly considered in Europe from the earliest times. Wild duck can be very fishy if they feed on the saltings. However, if you cook them with a good onion inside them, this will take out the taste of fish in most cases.

Here is a recipe from my mother-in-law, who is, alas, now dead, but who gave me very many mar-velous recipes. I think that it came originally from her old house in Ireland, where she grew up as a girl. Today it is an abandoned ruin, standing gaunt and desolate in what were once gardens and lawns. It is a sad place, the trees have gone, and the whin grass is creeping up from the lake. I stood there on a late January afternoon under a lowering sky. Wild geese were circling over the islands in the windswept lake. I tried to picture it as it once was, full of life and laughter, mown lawns, under the great cedar trees sweeping down, flanked by beds of flowers to the boat house and the lake. My mother-in-law as a young girl there with her brother, who was so soon to die, as this was in those golden years before 1914, and before the red tide of war was to sweep it all away. Round the cornice of the ruined ballroom, there are still signs of gilding, but except for the moaning of the wind, all else is silence. They lived well in those days and the following is one of the most delicious ways of cooking duck.


Duck with Black Cherry sauce

This is a superb dish; it takes time to do it well, but is well worth the work involved. It is a change from the usual roast duck with an orange sauce, and I think that this way is better. To make it, you need to make an espagnol sauce, which is a little tricky, but it can be made the day before, or several days before if you like, and frozen.

2 good, fat ducks (about 5 pounds or 2 kilos each)2 tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce2 tablespoons of red currant jelly1 tin (15 ounces or 450 grams) black cherries, without their stones5 fluid ounces ( 150 milliliters) red wine2 fluid ounces (50 milliliters) brandysalt fresh black pepper1 quart (1 liter) Espagnol sauce (see following page)

• Roasttheducks.Prickthemwellalloverwithatrussingordarningneedle.Rubthemwellwithsalt.Washtheliversthoroughlyandreplacethemintheducks.Placetheducksonarackintheroastingpan,withoutanyfat,andputinapreheatedoven.

• TheovenshouldbeheatedatGas8(230ºCentigrade)foratleast10minutesbeforetheducksareplacedinit.Roastfor35minutes.

• Thenremovefromoven,takeoutthefatfromthebottomofthepanandpricktheduckagainwiththeneedle.Replaceintheovenandcookforanother40minutes,bastingoccasionallywiththefat(oil)collectedfromthepan.

• Agreatdealofoilshouldcomeoutoftheducks.Theduckswillbecookedwhentheskinhasturnedagoldenbrowncolorallover.Whentheyarecooked,putonaplateandreplaceintheoventokeepwarmonalowheat.

• Removeallthefatfromthebottomofthepaninwhichtheyhavebeencooked,leavingonlythemeatjuicesunderthefatinthepan.

PrePs for The sauCe

• Puttheroastingtray,whichnowonlycontainsthemeatjuices,overalowheatandpourinthebrandy.Whenitisfairlywarm,ignitethebrandyandallowittoburnforafewmomentsbeforeextinguishingit.

• Pourintothepantheblackcherrieswithalittleofthesyrupfromthetin,addtheredcurrantjellyandtheWorcestershiresauceaswellastheglassofredwine.Increasetheheatandallowthemixturetoreducebyabout1/4,allthetimestirringwell.

• ThemixtureisnowreadyfortheEspagnolsauce.Thisshouldbeaddedandthewholesaucewellstirredovertheheatforaminuteortwobeforeserving.

• Servethesauceseparatelyanddonotpouritovertheduck.Ifyoudo,itwillmaketheskin,whichshouldbebrownandcrisp,dampandsoggy.


The espagnol sauce

4 ounces (125 grams) lard or dripping4 ounces (125 grams) flour2 ounces (60 grams) chopped celery2 ounces (60 grams) chopped carrot2 ounces (60 grams) chopped onion2 medium sized mushrooms, finely chopped1 ounce (30 grams) chopped bacon (use fat or streaky bacon)1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce1 heaped tablespoon tomato pureeBouquet Garni1 bay leaf2 1/2 pints (1.4 liters) strong meat stocka few drops of browning (if necessary)

• Putthelardordrippinginasaucepanandheat.Addthecarrot,celery,onion,mushroomandbaconandfrytogetheruntilgoldenbrown.Addtheflourandcontinuecooking,stirringbrisklyfor2or3minutes.Nowgraduallyaddthestock.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandletitsimmerfor10minutes.Thenaddtheherbs,thebouquetgarni,thebayleaf,aswellastheWorcestershiresauceandtomatopuree.Stirinwellandallowittocookgentlyforafurther10minutes.Addthesaltandpepperasrequired.

• Nowcookthesauceoveralowflamefor1/2hourinordertoreducethequantitybyabout1/2pint(275milliliters).

• Nowthesauceisready;strainitintoajugorcontainer.Useatonceorfreezeforfutureuse.• Thissaucecanalsobeusedformanyotherexcellentdishes.


Greek honey sweet

This sweet is of Greek origin and very delicious, if you like honey. It would be as well to discover whether any of your guests is a diabetic before deciding to serve this dish, as otherwise you might well kill him! Much of Greek food is an acquired taste and for me, the Greek resin wine is a torture which might have been invented by Torrquemada in one of his more inspired moments. This marvelous honey dish though, recalls the incredible beauty of the Greek islands and the smell of the herbs and wild flowers amongst those wild mountains running down to a sapphire sea.

1 1/2 cups honey (use a clear honey, preferable a flower blossom one such as orange blossom)4 egg yolks1/4 pint (5 fluid ounces or 150 milliliters ) double cream4 egg whites

• Putthehoneyandtheeggyolksinasaucepanandbeatthemoveranothersaucepanfilledwithfastboilingwater.Themixturemustnotboil,andmustbebeatenuntilitthickens.Thistakessometime,from25minutesto1/2anhour,andalthoughitishardwork,theendresultiswellworthit.

• Whenthemixturehasthickened,setitasidetocool,andwhencold,foldinthewellbeateneggwhitesfollowedbythestifflywhippedcream.

• Putthemixtureintoaservingbowlandputinthefreezercompartmentoftherefrigerator.• Thissweetwillkeepintherefrigeratorforatleastadayifitiskeptverycold,butitwillstartto

breakdownassoonasitcomesoutofthefreezer.• Forthisreasondonottakeitoutofthefreezeruntilyouareactuallyabouttoserveitatthetable.

Menu No. 9

lunCheon

avocado salad

Grilled Pork Chops with Cherry sauce

Mangetout Peas

Baked Potatoes

Cheese Board and Celery

suggested Wine: any dry, white wine such as some of the wines from alsace. serve Port or Madeira with the

cheese.

Many excellent salads can be made with avocado, served with lettuce or endives, mixed with hard boiled eggs or tuna fish,

lump fish “caviar” or salmon eggs.

Grill the Pork Chops in the normal way, arrange them on a serving dish and pour the hot Cherry sauce over them You will find that they

are absolutely delicious. (Cherry sauce, see previous menu)

Mangetout Peas go well with this dish, but you must be careful to see that they are young and not old and stringy. failing the Mangetout,

then I suggest french beans (string beans and haricots verts).

The Baked Potatoes also go well with the dish. some people bake them in foil, but I have found that the best way of all is with a sort

of metal spigot on which four potatoes are impaled, having first been well rubbed in oil and coarse sea salt. The spigot heats up and con-

ducts heat into the center of the potatoes ensuring that they are baked through.

You can serve baked potatoes with butter and a little black pepper, or with Yoghurt and chopped chives, or in many other ways, but they are

always excellent.

When serving a Cheese Board, try to offer a selection of Blue cheese, hard cheese, such as Cheddar or leicester, and soft cheese such a

Camembert, Brie and so on.

You can also use the espagnol sauce. It is, in fact, the base for very many sauces which can be used with meat, game and poultry. It is a

useful sauce to have frozen, as with a few simple additions it changes. for example, in the following luncheon menu, the espagnol sauce

becomes Madeira sauce, and it transforms the hamburger into some-thing rather rich and rare.

Menu No. 10

lunCheon

flemish eggs

hamburgers with a Madeira sauce

Mashed Potato

Broccoli with Chili Peppers

strawberry Ice Cream with Black Currants

suggested Wine: a light red wine such as a Medoc Claret or a Valpolicella


flemish eggs

This delicious entrée was given to me by Mary Black, an old friend who lives in an enchanting Mill house at shepreth in hertfordshire, england. It is easy and quick to make.

4 large endives, chicory7 eggs ( 1 per person plus 1 egg yolk for the sauce)2 ounces (60 grams) butter1 1/2 cups (12 fluid ounces or 375 milliliters) double creamsaltfreshly ground black pepper

• Meltthebutterinalargeskillet.Washandcleantheendiveleaves,strippingthemoffandcut-tingtheminhalves(Otherwisetheyarerathertoolongtobemanagedeasily).Puttheminapanwiththebutterandcookuntiltheyaretender,stirringthemwellforabout5to6minutes.Addsaltandblackpepperandkeephot.

• Taketheyolkof1egg,separatingitfromthewhiteandputtheyolkinasmallbowl.Beatitupwithafork.

• Heatthecreammakingsurethatitdoesnotboil.• Poachtheremaining6eggs(seebelow).• Pouralittleofthehotcreamintothebowlcontainingtheeggyolk,andmixitwelltogether,then

pouritintothepancontainingthehotcreamandmixitwell,stirringontheheatuntilthecreamhasthickened.,butdonotallowittoboilasotherwiseitwillcurdle.

• Transferthecookedendiveleavesontoaservingdishwiththebutterinwhichtheyhavebeencooked,coverthemwiththehotcreamandarrangethe6poachedeggsontop.

• Serveveryhotwithplentyofbreadandbutter.

• To poach eggs:Firstputthemintoboilingwaterfor30seconds,thentakethemoutandbreakthemintoalargepanofboilingwaterinwhichyouhaveaddedagoodtablespoonofvinegartoeachpint(21/2cupsor20fluidouncesor1/2liter)ofwater.Dependingonhowcoldtheeggsare,andhowfreshtheyare,theyusuallytakeabout3minutestocook.


Broccoli

To call somebody a Broccolo in Italian is an insult, but then it is also an insult to call anybody a Codfish. Broccoli are in fact delicious and there are very many ways of cooking them. here is one which comes from the mountains to the east of rome where we had a family house. It had once been an old tower and stood on the edge of an almost sheer drop of about 1,000 feet into the valley below. It is high in the mountains and cold at night, even in the summer. This dish uses the hot Chili peppers.

2 pounds ( kilo) of sprouting broccoli2 red, dried chilies (or just 1 if you do not like things which are very hot)olive oil

• Useagoodoliveoilalways.Badorstrongoil,especiallytheratherrancidoilwhichthePortu-gueselikesomuch,willruinanydish.

• Removefromthesprigsofbroccolialltheleavesandalsothetoughandstringypartofthestalks.Boiltheminsaltedwateruntiltheyarecooked.Thetimeforthismayvaryandyoucantestwithaskeweronthestalks.Whentheyaretender,theyarecooked.Becarefulnottoovercookthem.

• Whencooked,takethemfromthewaterandcutthemup,cuttingthemintopieces.Runthembrieflyunderthecoldwatertopreventfurthercooking.

• Chopupthechiliesveryfinely,togetherwiththeseeds,andputtheminaskilletwithjustenoughoilastocoverthebottomoftheskilletcompletely.Cookgentlyfor10minutes.Thenincreasetheheattomediumandaddthebroccoliandstirthemround.

• Donotletthembrown,butwhentheyarereheatedthoroughly,servetogetherwiththelittlebitsofchilioverthem,butleavetheoilintheskillet.

strawberry Ice Cream with Black Currants

no explanation is required for this dish, but strawberry ice cream with black currants (tinned) makes an excellent sweet and would compliment a luncheon of this sort.


serVanTsSeveral of these recipes come from my husband’s family and from a lovely, old house

in England. There was an enormous kitchen, some 80 feet long by some 30 feet wide. At one end was a gigantic, coal burning kitchen range, and a long table ran down the center with other tables and sinks round the walls. On the walls themselves hung dozens of copper pots and pans, moulds and forms, all burnished to a gleaming brightness. Beyond the kitchen was the scullery where the plates and dishes were washed, and beyond that, the vegetable scullery where the vegetables were washed and prepared. There was a Cold Room (this was before the days of refrigerators) where great blocks of ice kept the temperature to below freezing, and a range of larders where game was hung, cheeses kept, hams suspended from the ceilings on hooks and so on. Over this little kingdom, there reigned Mrs. Sloane, the Cook. Under her, there were 3 Kitchen Maids and 2 Scullery Maids and in her kitchen, her word was law. Nobody was allowed into the kitchen without having Mrs. Sloane’s permission.

Nowadays, when we have very small kitchens, and very few people have a cook it is strange to look back on this other world, which disappeared really not so very long ago, but seems to have come from another age. The recipes too were often so elaborate that they required several people to make them and hours of work were involved. There were no machines, no mixers, no blenders and everything had to be done by hand.

From the kitchens to the dining room was some considerable distance, down stone corridors and along passages, about 60 or 70 yards, and outside the dining room there was the serving room, where there was a large sort of trolley on wheels, fitted with a number of methylated spirit lamps under rings and hotplates. This was intended to keep the food hot, or to reheat it if it had got cold in transit between the kitchens and dining room. In theory, it was an excellent idea but in practice however, it rather frequently burst into flames and had to be put out by a fire extinguisher, kept there for the purpose. Occasionally this was known to have had a catastrophic effect on the food which was to be served.

Meals were served by the Butler and 2 Footmen, and also sometimes by Jane Pott.Jane Pott was in fact a ghost. Table turning sessions in the past had elicited the

information that her name was Jane Pott, that she had been a Serving Maid in the house in the 17th century and had been murdered by Albert Hicks, a Footman. Further table turning revealed that Hicks had himself been walled up behind the paneling on the first landing of the main stairs. In fact, a skeleton was found there some years after when a bathroom was being put in. Jane Pott had a disconcerting habit of waiting table, and she was seen by the family and by countless guests on very many occasions. However, when one turned to help one’s self to the dish that she was offering, she and it vanished. Some guests found this disturbing.

Menu No. 11

DInner

lotte Thermidor (Monkfish)

Circassian Chicken

Cucumber Yoghurt

orange sorbet

suggested Wine: a good sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris. The Pinot Gris is always regarded as the perfect accom-paniment to salmon, but is also very good with chicken

and other fish.


lotte Thermidor

This makes a most delicious entrée and has the great merit that it can be prepared the previous day, put in the refrigerator and when required, reheated in a saucepan, put into the scallop shells, sprinkled with the Parmesan and put under the grill. It is then served very hot. It is easy to make and if you have a rather com-plicated main dish, it is useful to have this already made so that all you have to do is reheat it.

125 grams (4 ounces) of butter60 grams (2 ounces) of flour125 grams (4 ounces) mushrooms, sliced300 milliliters (1/2 pint) fish stock

(for this you can use a DASHI NO MOTO instant soup stock envelope)300 milliliters (1/2 pint) milk2 teaspoons dried tarragon1 teaspoon English mustard2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan500 grams (1 pound) monkfish, skinned and without bone3 tablespoons dry white wine2 tablespoons brandy

• Meltthe50grams(2ounces)ofbutterinapan,andsprinkleintheflouroveralowheatstirringfor1minute.Stirinthefishstockandmilkinordertomakeasmoothandratherthicksauce.

• Melt25grams(1ounce)ofbutterinanotherpanandaddthemushroomsanddriedtarragon.Sautéthemushroomsuntiltender.

• Stirinthemushroomsandtarragontothesauce,addthewineandthemustardandcontinuetostir.RemovethepanfromtheheatandstirinonetablespoonofthegratedParmesan.

• Cutthefishintosmallchunksabout2cm(1inch)each.Melttheremainingbutter(60gramsor2ounces)andcookthefishinthisfor5or6minutesoruntilcookedthoroughly.Addthebrandy.

• Addthefishandjuicestothesauce,andifusingimmediately,spoonthemixtureintothescallopshellswhichhavebeenslightlyheated.Heatthegrill.SprinkletheremainingParmesanoverthefilledscallopshellsandplacethemunderthegrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandthemixtureisbubbling.

• Ifnotrequiredimmediately,putthemixtureintherefrigeratoruntilitistobeused,thenfillthescallopshells,sprinkleonthecheeseandputthemunderthegrillbeforeserving.Theabovequantitieswillfill6shells.


Circassian Chicken

This is a very old Turkish dish served on rather special occasions.

2 good roasting chickens or boilers will do provided that they are not too old1 1/2 pounds (750 grams) fresh walnuts3 slices bread1 1/4 pints (700 milliliters or 25 fluid ounces) strong chicken stock1 1/2 tablespoons sweet paprikasalt, cayenne pepper1/2 cup walnut oil

• Boilthechickensinsaltedwaterwithachoppedcarrot,onelargeonionchopped,twosticksofcelery,twochickenstockcubes,andonecloveofgarlic.

• Boiluntilcookedandtender,betweenanhourand11/2hours,dependingonthesizeofthechickens.• Whencooked,removefromtheliquid,andputononeside.• Reservetwopints(1liter)ofthestock.• Whencool,removethemeatfromthechickencarcassesandchopupthemeatintosmallpieces.

The sauCe• Firstblanchthewalnutsinboilingwaterfor2minutesandthenputthemthroughtheblender

untiltheyarereducedtoafinepaste.• Soakthebreadincoldwater,andthensqueezeitdry.Addthistothewalnutpasteintheblender

andblendagain.• AsourwalnutsdonotcontainasmuchoilastheTurkishones,youwillhavetoaddabout1/2cupof

walnutoiltothemixtureintheblender.Addateaspoonofsaltand1/2teaspoonofcayennepepperandblendagainverythoroughly.

• Transfermixturefromtheblenderintoamuslinclothandsqueezeoutasmuchoilasyoucan.Putthemixtureblackintheblender,reservingtheoilNowaddthechickenstocktothemixtureintheblenderandblendverythoroughlyagain.Thisshouldproduceathickcreamysauce.

To serVe• Putthechoppedchickenmeatinthecentreofaservingdishandpourthethicksauceoverit,

coveringitcompletely.Putintherefrigeratorandchillwell.Youshouldallowatleast2hoursforthis,oritcanbedonethedaybeforeandkeptintherefrigeratoruntilrequired.

• Beforeserving,removefromtherefrigerator,mixsweetpaprikaintothewalnutoiluntilitisagood,redcolorandpourthisthinlyoverthetopofthesauce,makinganattractivepattern.

• ThisdishofCircassianChickenisservedwithrice,anditlooksverywellifpresentedonalargedishsurroundedwithricewhichhasbeencookedwithalittlesaffroninordertogiveitagoldenyellowcolor.

• Itisbestnotservedwithanyothervegetables,butwithaCucumberYoghurtSalad.


I first came across this recipe for Circassian Chicken when staying in Egypt with a Turkish friend of ours. He was the nephew of King Fuad and he had a marvelous estate outside Cairo.

I will never forget the first time we went there, driv-ing in through the gates of the garden. It was a walled garden covering over 300 acres and patrolled by armed guards. We drove in through the gates and then down a tunnel fully 1/2 mile long composed of different colored bougainvilleas which had been trained over a metal frame so as to make this incredible tunnel through which the sun filtered in clouds of purple, red, bronze, yellow and white. It remains one of the most beautiful things that I have ever seen in my life.

The house at the end of the tunnel was an enormous mansion, and here our Host, the Prince, introduced us to the Housekeeper who was Turkish, the Butler and Ma-jor Domo, also Turkish, the Valet for my husband, also Turkish and the Ladies Maid for me, Turkish again, My host then told me that this was our house and these our servants, that they also included a Turkish bodyguard and chauffeur, and that they were ours to command.

It appeared that he himself lived at another mansion some 300 or 400 yards away in the garden. It was told that I should give the staff my orders, that the Housekeeper would wait on me each morning to find out what we wanted to eat and that if we wanted anything at all, we were just to ask the Major Domo or the Bodyguard Chauffeur. This was all very well, but unfortunately, none of them spoke anything other that Turkish and neither I nor my husband knew 1 word of it.

However, I soon learned sufficient to be able to carry on a short conversation and to ask for what we wanted. This is one of the dishes we ate there.


Cucumber Yoghurt

This is a Turkish dish, but is found throughout the Middle east. It is delicious and cooling. for it, you will need individual bowls for each guest. The amounts given here are for 6 persons.

30 fluid ounces (1 1/2 pints or 850 milliliters) natural Yoghurt, unflavored1 large, fresh cucumber1 clove garlic, crushed1 teaspoon sesame oil2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar

• BeatuptheYoghurtwithawoodenspoon,addthecrushedgarlicandapinchofsalt,addthevinegarandmixwelltogether.Peelthecucumberandremovetheseeds,diceitintosmallcubesandputinaflatbowlcoveringitwithsalt.Allowthecucumbertostandforabout1/2hour,andthenpouroffthewaterwhichwillhavecomeoutofit.Washthedicedcucumberverywell,removingallthesalt,andaddittotheYoghurt.

• Addthesesameoilandmixwell.Thenputintherefrigeratoruntilrequiredandserveintheindividualbowlsverycold.

orange sorbet

125 grams (4 ounces or 1/2 cup) castor sugar1 tin concentrated frozen orange juice (about 175 milliliters)250 milliliters (1/2 pint) water1 egg white

• Dissolvethesugarinthewaterinasaucepanandwhenithasdissolved,boilitfor5minutes.• Removeitfromtheheatandaddtheorangejuice.Mixthoroughlyandallowittocool.When

fairlycoldputitintherefrigeratorandchillthoroughly.• Nowaddthe1eggwhiteandmixitintothesorbet.Replaceintherefrigeratorandchilluntil

almostfrozen.Turnitoutintoamixingbowlandwhiskuntilitisthickandsmooth,thenreplaceitagainintherefrigeratorandfreezeuntilitissolid.

Menu No. 12

lunCheon

Gambas a la Plancha

Walnut Chicken

french Beans

sauté Potatoes

Cold soufflé with Grand Marnier

suggested Wine: white wine from the loire or an Italian orvieto or a Portuguese Vinho Verde


Gambas a la Plancha

Gambas a la Plancha are prawns. use about 6-8 per person, peeled and boiled and then fried for about 3 minutes with 1 or 2 cloves of garlic. They should be served preferably in earthenware dishes with garlic oil.

Walnut Chicken

Walnut chicken is the Circassian chicken put onto large, thick slices of white, fried bread.

french Beans

haricots verts or string beans must be young.

• Withasharpknifecutallroundthem,removingthestrings.• Donotboilfortoolongandservewithalittlemeltedbutteroverthem.

sauté Potatoes

need no explanation.

Cold soufflé of Grand Marnier

1/2 pint (1 cup or 300 milliliters or 10 fluid ounces) double cream100 milliliters (1/2 cup) of Grand Marnier Liqueur1/4 pint (1/2 cup or 150 milliliters or 5 fluid ounces) water1/2 ounce (15 grams) gelatin6 ounces (185 grams) castor sugar6 eggs

• Separatetheeggs.Beatthewhitesinabowluntilstiff.Inanotherbowl,whipthecreamuntilstiff.Softenthegelatininthewater.

• Boilthewaterinadoublesaucepan,andwhenboilingtipintothetoppantheGrandMarnier,theeggyolksandthesugarandstirthismixtureovertheboilingwateruntilitbecomesthick.Whenitdoes,removeitfromtheheatandputitononeside.

• Nowputthegelatininthe1/4pintwaterandwhenitishotanddissolved,stiritintothecontentsofthefirstsaucepan(theeggyolks,GrandMarnierandthesugar).Whenitisallwellmixed,pouritintoanotherbowlandputitintherefrigerator.

• Whenitbeginstoset,takeitoutoftherefrigeratorandcarefullyfoldinthestifflybeateneggwhites.Whenthesehavegonein,dothesamethingwiththestifflywhippedcream.

• Thesouffléisnowreadyandcanbetransferredtoasoufflédish,putintothe refrigeratorandallowedtoset.


seaTInG The GuesTsSome people are very touchy as to how they are seated, and are acutely conscious of

protocol. This can be very tiresome and while it is easy enough to arrange the seating at Diplomatic dinners, where the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, State Department of Foreign Office maintains a Chief of Protocol who will always settle such problems of precedence, such as the Surrogate Bishop of Middle Volta, the Second Secretary of the Ruritania Embassy and the ancient and crotchety Lord Senile all dining with you together.

There are other occasions when it is not so easy. I have actually known a Hungarian to stalk out of a big dinner party because he thought that he was not properly seated, and on another occasion, a British Ambassador, when asked to dine and knowing that a former King would also be present said, “please remember that I take precedence over the King.” When told that he would not as it was a private dinner and not an official one, he refused to come, much to his hostess’s relief.

In fact, while it is always a courtesy to seat the principal guest on the hostess’ right and the principal female guest on the host’s right, at any unofficial meal you can seat the guests as you like. It is always as well to avoid seating 2 people whom you know hate each other side by side, unless you are one of those hostesses who invites her guests for her own amusement and enjoys watching them react to each other.

It is also as well to avoid having 13 at table as some people are very superstitious about his. I personally do not like 13 and well remember an occasion many years ago when I was staying at a great English country house. The hostess had invited 12 guests apart from herself and her husband, but at the last moment, one of the guests telephoned to say that his car had broken down some distance away and for nobody to wait for him.

Accordingly, we all went to lunch and sat down. There was general conversation until suddenly the hostess said, “Oh dear! We are 13. How very tiresome.” There was a general buzz of comment and then somebody said, “What is so dreadful about that, what is supposed to happen?” The hostess replied to the effect that there was an old superstition that if 13 people sat down together, the first person to get up from the table was supposed to die within the year.

“And so,” continued the hostess, “When I give the word, we will all get up together and that will break it.” However, the man who had originally asked what was supposed to happen suddenly seemed to get very angry and said rather too loudly, “What a lot of silly nonsense. I don’t hold with that sort of superstitious rubbish. Look, I’ll get up and you’ll see.” Before anybody could stop him, he rose to his feet and fell forward across the table with a crash. He must have suffered a sudden, massive stroke, as he was stone dead.

This made a great impression on me at the time, as I was very young, but I have never cared for 13 at table ever since, and a good many other people share this superstition.


an IrIsh hoMe-CookeD MealMany years ago in Ireland, my husband and I were invited to dinner with a friend

who lived nearby. It was a summer evening and the bay glowed and sparkled in the late evening sun. As we arrived at the gate of the long drive which led up to the house, we were surprised to see our hostess in her car talking to two or three other friends whom we knew had also been invited to dine.

We stopped, and Pamela, our hostess, explained that there had been a slight accident and that, as dinner had got rather overdone, she was going to take us all to dine at the local hotel in Ballylickey. We had a pleasant evening, but it was only the next day that we learnt what had happened.

It appears that Pamela had put the roast in the oven of her kitchen and had then found that she had run out of whisky. She climbed into the car and drove the couple of miles or so to the local pub where she bought a couple of bottles of whisky and stayed talking to the landlord in the bar for some time.

About a quarter of an hour later a countryman came in the bar and ordered a drink. After a while, he turned to Pamela and said, “Would you be Mrs. Moorsom from the house down the road?”

Pamela said that she was. “I thought you might be,” the countryman replied. “’Tis a fine evening.” Pamela agreed that it was and there ensued some further conversation about the crops and the weather.

After a while, the countryman said, “I suppose you know your house is on fire?” Pamela said that she didn’t and the countryman said, “Well in that case, you had better hurry as it was burning fine when I came along some time back.”

When Pamela got back to the house, there was almost nothing left except a huge pile of smoking ashes. Dinner had, in fact ‘got rather 'overdone’. The house had been a wooden one and had gone up like a torch; everything had gone, her furniture, pictures, silver, and clothes. She had only what she stood up in and her car. However, as her guests were expected in a few minutes, she met us at the end of the drive, well out of sight of what had once been her house, and during the entire dinner, she mentioned none of what had happened.

It was with Pamela Moorsom that we first had the dish with Scallops, which is given on page 10. In those days, Bantry Bay, in the southwest of Ireland, was full of scallops and we used to buy them fresh off the boats. I am told that since a huge oil refinery was built on Widdy Island, there are no more.

Many of the best Irish dishes came originally from French recipes and this is one of them.

Menu No. 13

DInner

Queen anne’s Mushrooms

sea Trout Poached in White Wine

Cucumber and horseradish sauce

new Potatoes with Mint

salad

Crepes filled with Marmalade and Grand Marnier

suggested Wine: Marques de la Murrietta YGaY Blanco (spanish)


Queen anne’s Mushrooms

This is a very old recipe from the Court of Queen anne of england in about 1700. It was written down by one of the Queen’s cooks, a certain Patrick lamb, and it has the double advantage of being very simple and also very delicious.

1 1/2 pounds (750 grams) button mushrooms3/4 pint (15 fluid ounces or 425 milliliters) double cream6 egg yolks1 lemon (or 2 small ones, to provide about 1/4 cup of juice)salt and cayenne pepper

• Removethestalksfromthemushroomsandwipethemclean(donotwashthem).Slicethemandpourthejuiceofthelemonorlemonsoverthem,addalittlesaltandcayennepepperandputinaskilletoveralowheat.Stirthemushroomsgentlyuntiltheybegintocookandthenpouroverthemnearlyallthecream,reservingonlyabout2tablespoonfulsandbringthemixturetotheboil.

• Boilforafewsecondsandthenstirintherestofthecreamwhichyouhavemixedthoroughlywiththeyolksofthe6eggs.Continuetocookthemixtureforafewmoreseconds,stirringthewholetimeanduntilitisveryhot,butdonotbringtotheboil.

• TransfertoaservingdishandserveveryhotwithfingersoftoastorFrenchbread.

For many years we used to go to the Eo in North West Spain for the trout and salmon fishing, and sometimes also to Scotland. One of the best fish in the world is a small, fresh, brown trout taken out of a mountain torrent, and cooked as they do it in Northern Spain, with a piece of cured but uncooked ham in each of them and then fried over a wood fire.

I think that perhaps Sea Trout is my favorite fish; it has a greater delicacy than salmon, and poached in a Court Bouillon as I have suggested, it is really delicious, either hot or cold.

The Court Bouillon which I have given here can be altered to some extent although as it is, it will make a most excellent fish soup. Once it has been used, strain it, reheat it and boil it for seven to eight minutes with vermicelli or any of the little shapes of pasta that are used for soups. When it is cooked, sprinkle it well with grated Parmesan and serve. However, equal quantities of water and white wine can be expensive, and here is a substitute to the wine.

suBsTITuTe WIneTo make 1 pint (20 fluid ounces or 575 milliliters)180 grams (6 ounces) wine vinegar60 grams (2 ounces) sugar360 grams (12 ounces) water

Thismixturewillmakeaverygoodwinesubstituteforcookinggenerally.However,ifyouusethissubstituteintheCourtBouillon,DONOTUSEANYMOREVINEGARINIT.IfyouusevinegarintheCourtbouillonratherthanthewine,youcannotuseitsubsequentlyasafishsoup.


Court Bouillon

always make your Court Bouillon the day before. To make, use equal quantities of water and white wine.

A small piece of celery1 carrot chopped 2 shallots chopped1 clove of garlic chopped1 clovea Bouquet Garnisalt and peppercornsvinegar

• Thewaterandthewinearebroughttotheboilinthefishkettle,usingenoughwineandwatertocoverthefishwhentheywillbeplacedinthekettle.Addatablespoonofvinegartoeveryquartofwaterused,nowaddalltheotheringredientstothewine,waterandvinegarmixtureandsim-merforonehour.Removeitfromtheheatandallowittobecomecompletelycold.

To Cook the salmon or sea Trout

• Cleanthefishthoroughlyandplaceitinthefishkettle.Theliquidinthefishkettlemustcoverthefishcompletelyandmustbeverycold.

• Bringthewaterslowlytosimmeringpointandcookverygently.Thewatershouldbarelytremble.Allow8minutesperpoundforfishweighingoverfivepounds(21/4kilos).Theskinwillliftawayeasilywhenthefishiscooked.

• Ifthefishistobeeatenhot,drainitandserveithotorifasinthiscase,thefishistobeeatencold,allowittocoolinthebouillon.

To serVe:

• Putthecolddrainedfishonaservingdishanddecoratewithwatercress,lettuce,slicesofhardboiledeggs,wedgesoflemon,thinlyslicedcucumberandradishes,starcutandputinicedwater,sothattheyopenlikeflowers.


Cucumber and horseradish sauce

This is a delicious sauce which can be used for salmon or trout or any cold fish and it is also excellent with cold meat, chicken or game.

2 tablespoons grated horseradish2 heaped tablespoons of chopped cucumber2 small shallots1/2 pint (250 milliliters) double cream1 tablespoon tarragon vinegarsalt and pepper

• Skinthecucumber,removetheseedsanddicefinelytoproducetherequiredquantity.Coverwithsalt,allowtodrainandthenwashwell.

• Whipthecreamstiffly.Chopuptheshallotsveryfinely.• Addalltheingredientstothewhippedcream,andmixthoroughly.Putintherefrigeratoruntil

requiredandserveimmediately.note: Do not make this sauce too long before you require to use it or leave it for long out of the refrigerator, as it can break down.

new Potatoes with Mint

• Takeasufficientquantityofnewpotatoes,for6peopleaboutonekilo(21/4pounds).Wash,scrubanddrythemthoroughly.

• Withaluminiumfoilwrapthepotatoesintoparcelsofabout5or6potatoeseach(dependingonsize)andburyineachparcelagoodsizedsprigofmint.Dotthepotatoesineachparcelwithabout1/4ounceofbutter,freshlygroundblackpepperandseasalt,thenwrapeachparceltightlyclosedwiththeopeningonthetop.

• PreheattheoveratGas5(350ºFahrenheitor190ºCentigrade).Puttheparcelsoffoilcontainingthepotatoesintheovenandcookforonehour.

• Serveveryhotwithsprigsoffreshmint

The salad

• Take4goodheadsofendive,washthemanddrythemthoroughly.Arrangethemaroundalargeglassbowllikethepetalsofaflower.Inthecenterofthebowlmakeamoundofpreviouslycooked,young,gardenpeas.

• Roundthebaseofthisgreenmoundofpeasmakeacircleofslicesofhardboiledegg,andout-sidethiscircleandontheendsoftheleavesoftheendivesputsmallcutsquaresofbeetroot.

• Starcutsomeradishesandputtheminicedwatersothattheyopenandplacetheseonthemoundofpeasjustabovethecircleofslicesofhardboiledegg.

• Donotuseasaladdressingasthesauceforthefishwillbequitesufficient.• Thisisjustadecorativesuggestion,andyoucan,ofcourse,makeendlessvariationsofyourown.


Crepes with Marmalade and Grand Marnier filling

1/2 cup sifted flour1 teaspoon sugar1/2 teaspoon salt1 cup milk4 eggs3 tablespoons butter, melted and slightly cooled

To Make The BaTTer

• Intheblender,combinealltheaboveingredientsexceptthemeltedbutter.Blendwelltogether,scrapedownthesideoftheblenderwiththespatulaandthenblendagainwhileyoupourinthemeltedbutter.Whenwellblended,letitrestinabasinintherefrigeratorforatleastanhour.

To Cook The CrePes

• Firstpreparethepanbypouringintoitaboutonetablespoonofcookingoilandheatingitoverthestovefor2to3minutes.Thenwipeoutalltheoilwithapapertowel.

• Dependingonthesortofpanthatyouareusing,themethodofcookingcrepesdiffers.Generallyspeaking,thepanshouldbeheatedandthensufficientofthebattermixtureshouldbepouredintoitsothattheentirebottomiscoveredthinly,andanyexcessliquidshouldbepouredbackintothebasincontainingthebatter.Useasmalljugtopourthebatterintothepanandstirwellbeforeusing.

• Putthepanbackontheheatfor15to20seconds(oralittlelonger)anduntilthesurfaceofthecrepeiscompletelydryandslightlybrownroundtheedges,removefromtheheatandtipoutthecrepeontoaplate.Putapieceofgreaseproofpaperbetweeneachcrepetopreventthemfromstickingtogether.Whentheyareallcooked,youcankeepthemintherefrigeratorforseveraldayswellcoveredinastoragecontainer.

• Thequantityofbatterabovemakesabout16crêpes• Whenrequiredtobeused,de-freeze,filleachcrepewiththemixturebelow,rollupandputinto

agreased,fireproof,flatdish.SprinklewithalittlemoreGrandMarnierandicingsugar(confec-tioner’ssugar)andwarmupinalowovenataboutGas3(170ºCentigrade,335ºFahrenheit)for15to20minutesoruntilheatedthrough.Servehot.

The fIllInG

• Takeajarofthick-cutmarmaladeandmixwithtwotablespoonsofGrandMarnierliqueur.• Garnish• GarnishcrepeswithSicilianKumquats(tinyoranges).

Perhaps you may have some of the salmon trout left over from the dinner party, and the following is a sug-gested menu in which it can be used.

Menu No. 14

lunCheon

oeufs en Cocotte a ma facon

salmon Trout fish Cakes

Grated Carrots and Turnips

fresh Pineapple with kirsch

suggested Wine: Moselle or hock


oeufs en Cocotte a ma facon

as an alternative to the eggs (oeufs en Cocotte a ma facon) you could use the Court Bouillon in which you boiled the salmon trout, if you have any left over, and if you have used only wine. otherwise try the oeufs en Cocotte, which, done this way, are amongst my favorite dishes.

6 eggs90 grams (3 ounces) mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped2 tablespoons butter2 tablespoons cream3 tablespoons milk2 tablespoons tomato concentrate1 large shallot or small onion, finely chopped1 heaped tablespoon of parsley, finely chopped

• Take6ramekins(ours,onwhichthesemeasurementsarebased,hold5fluidounces,150millilitersorabout1/2cup).

• Withalittleofthebutterthoroughlygreasetheramekins.• Putalargeroastingtinonthestoveandfillwithwatersothatthewaterwillcomeuptojustabove1/2

wayuptheramekins.Heatthewatersothatitcomestotheboil.Alsoboilakettlesothatyouhavewaterreadytoreplaceevaporationfromthewaterintheroastingtin.

• Cleanandchopthemushroomsfinely,anddivideupequallybetweenthe6ramekinstogetherwithasmallteaspoonofbutterineachramekin.Allowthemushroomstocookintheramekins.Mean-while,finelychopalargeshallotorsmallonion,andsofteninasmallsaucepanonthestoveinateaspoonofbutteruntiltheonionorshallotisgolden.Thenspoonoutthechoppedonionequallyintheramekinandmixinwellwiththechoppedmushrooms.

• Breakoneeggintoeachramekin,mixtogetherwiththecream,thetomatoconcentrateandthemilk,andseasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Thenpourequallyintoeachramekin.

• Cookforabout1/2hour,checkingthewaterforevaporationandtoppingupfromthekettleasmaybenecessary.

• Whencooked,sprinkleeachramekinwiththefreshlychoppedparsleyandserveatoncewithtoastcutintofingersorCrackerBread.

fish soup with Pasta

(If you have used the vinegar rather than wine to make the court bouillon you can not use it for this soup).

• Usethecourtbouilloninwhichyoucookedthesalmontrout.Strainit,andthenboilitfor7or8minuteswiththesmallpastashapessuitableforputtingintosoupsandwhichyoucanbuyatanystorewhichstocksItalianfood.Whenreadytobeserved,sprinklewithParmesan,finelygrated.


fish Cakes

use the salmon trout left over from luncheon.

• Cleanthefishcarefully,removinganybonesorskin.• Putitintoalargebowlwithmashedpotato,roughlychoppedhardboiledeggs,freshlyground

blackpepper,alittlesaltandalittlenutmeg.Mixallwelltogether,andmakethemixtureintofishcakes.

• Coatthesewithbeateneggandalittleflourandrolltheminbreadcrumbs.Thenfryinbutteruntilcooked.

• Therearenohardandfastrulesaboutquantities;themorefishyouhave,thebetteryourfishcakeswillbe,butevenalittlefishwillgoquitealongway.

Grated Carrots and Turnips

• Take4mediumsizedcarrotsandaturnipandcleanthemthoroughly.Gratethemasfinelyaspossible.ThiscanbedoneinafewmomentswithafoodprocessororMagimix.

• Mixwelltogetherandtossthemixtureinaskilletwithabout1 1/2 ounces(45grams)ofbutteroveramoderateheatfor3-4minutes.Servehot.Theyshouldbecookedthrough,butstillcrisp.

fresh Pineapple with kirsch

• Takeafreshpineapple,peelitandremovethecore.• CutitintoslicesandallowittomarinateinKirsch,preferablyovernight.• Serveitwithorwithoutcream.

Menu No. 15

DInner

scampi lombardy style

escallops of Veal with Brandy and orange sauce

Broad Beans with summer savory

Duchesse Potatoes

Bernstein Walnut Cake

Compote

suggested Wine: a white Burgundy such as Pouilly-fuisse or a good white Macon


scampi lombardy style

allow 6 to 8 large scampi for each person, thus 36 to 48 scampi for 6 people.

1 bay leaf1 clove garlic, crushed2 cloves2 shallots, finely chopped1 tablespoon fennel, finely chopped1 tablespoon parsley, chopped5 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• Shellandcleanthescampiandputtooneside.• Takealltheotheringredients,putinasaucepanandbringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsim-

mergentlyfor4minutes,thenaddthescampi,stirwell,coverthepanandsimmergentlyforanother15minutes,gentlyshakingthepanfromtimetotime.

• Whencooked,serveatonce.Theprawnscanbeplacedinthecenterofaservingdishandsur-roundedbyrice.

hesperides Veal escallops (a family recipe)

sufficient milk to marinate the veal escallops, depending on size and shape of the dish

6 good escallops of veal1 1/2 ounces (45 grams) flour4 ounces (110 grams) butter2 large oranges4 tablespoons brandy1 1/2 cups strong chicken stocksaltfreshly ground black pepper1/2 teaspoon chopped chives• Marinatethevealescallopsinmilkfor2hoursbeforeusing.• Inalargeskillet,sautétheescallopsinthebutteruntiltheyareslightlybrownonbothsides.Re-

movethepanfromtheheatandtakeouttheescallops,puttingthemononesideandkeepinghot.• Nowstirtheflourintothebutterremainingintheskilletandaddtheorangerind(seebelow)

andthejuiceofthe2oranges,thebrandyandthechickenstock.Replaceontheheat,mixalltheingredientswelltogetherinthepanandbringtotheboil.Seasonwithalittlesaltandblackpep-pertotaste,addtheescallopsofveal.Covertheskilletandallowittosimmeronalowheatfor10minutes.

• Puttheescallopsonaservingdish,strainthesauceandpouritovertheescallops.Sprinkleverythinlywiththechoppedchivesandserveveryhot.

note: When taking the rind from the oranges, peel it very thinly, taking just the outside rind and as little as possible of the white, inside pithy peel. You can also make this dish using chicken breasts.


Broad Beans

Youngandtenderbroadbeanscanbeamongstthemostdeliciousofallvegetables,buttheold,toughonesarealmostinedible.Ihaveafriendwhoalwaysreferstothemas“OldMeninLeatherJackets”.Andhehasapoint!Oddlyenough,insomeoftheLatincountries,broadbeansareregardedasananimalfoodwhichis

onlyeatenbytheverypoorpeople,andinLisbon,Iactuallymetpeoplewhowereoffendedbybeingof-feredbroadbeansataluncheonparty!Ifindthemdelicious,andIlikethemyoung,tenderandboiledinsaltedwaterwithalittlesugar,and

thenservedwithmeltedbutterpouredoverthemandsprinkledwithSummerSavory.SummerSavorywasagreatfavoritewiththeRomans,andfiguredprominentlyintheircooking.The

RomanLegionsbroughtittoBritainanditwastakenfromtheretoAmericabythefirstsettlers.TherearefewhostessesleftinLondonnowadays,butwegotoalovelyhouseinChesterfieldHill

whereourhostessentertainsexactlyastheyonceusedto.Thediningroomisremarkablyprettywithaceilingofpaintedcloudsinabluesky,whilethewallsarepaintedtoo,sothatonemightthinkthatonewasinanarboropentothesky.ThetableiscoveredwiththemostbeautifulsilverwiththeRoyalArmsemblazonedonit,thecutcrystalglassesarebeautifulandthefoodisalwaysexcellent.Weusuallydine14or16peopleroundthetableandthehostessasksmenwhoareleadersinthefieldofBankingandIndustry,Artists,Politicians,Ambassadors,Scientists,clevercareergirlsandwittyandinterestingmen.Theconversationisalwaysinterestingandamusinganditisadelighttogothere.ItwasourhostoneeveningwhotoldmetheoriginofDuchessePotatoes.Itappearsthatthewell-knownEnglishlandscapeartistofthelastcentury,Landseer,wasagreatla-

diesmanwhobecamegreatlyenamoredwiththeDuchessofBedford.ItwashewhoinventedthiswayofcookingpotatoesandnameditaftertheDuchess.

Duchesse Potatoes

6 or 7 large baking potatoes7 ounces (220 grams) butter6 egg yolks1 egg yolk, slightly beatensalt and pepper

• Youcaneitherbakeorboilthepotatoes,butifyouboilthemyoumusttakegreatcaretodrythemverythoroughly.Whentheyarecooked,putthemthrougharicer(orthroughafoodproces-sorsothattheyaremashedverythoroughly).Nowputthericedorsmasheduppotatoesintoasaucepanandstirthemoveramoderateheattogetridofallmoisture.Whentheyarecompletelydry,removefromtheheatandbeatinthebutterandtheeggyolks.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.

• Nowmakesmallballsofthismixtureandputthemonawell-flouredboard.Theballsareflattened,cutintorectanglesorsquares1/2to3/4inchthickandscorethetopsofeachwithdecorativelines.Thendipthemintheflourandpaintthemalloverwiththeslightlybeateneggyolk.Frythemindeepbutteruntiltheyaregoldenandserve.


Close to the Hungarian frontier, and in what used to be Hungary up until 1922, when the Burgenland became part of Austria, there is a beautiful, old castle which belongs to Countess Kuefstein-Almasy, who has been a friend of ours for nearly 35 years. It is one of the most delightful places that I know, beautiful, peaceful and with a feeling of warmth and friendship that is unique.

We go there in the summer, and some of the recipes in this book came from there. During the day my husband goes shooting in the woods, and after dinner in the evenings, we sit with our friend and her daughter by a great open fireplace in the library and talk late in to the night. The castle of Bernstein is really too large to run as a private home today, so Countess Kuefstein-Almasy opened it some years ago to a limited number of guests in the Summer and I can think of nowhere more delightful to spend a holiday.

All the way up the grand staircase, there are the coats of arms of the families that have owned the castle since it was built in the early 12th century. After the fall of Constantinople in the 15th century, the Turks spread westward sweeping into Hungary and Austria and coming up to the very gates of Vienna. Bernstein was attacked twice by Turkish armies and on both occasions, the Turks were driven off. Like the great Batthyany stronghold of Gussing, the fortress of Bernstein was a constant threat to the Turkish rear, and was a factor which caused them to withdraw from Vienna.

It is a place of long corridors, of twisting spiral stairs within the thick walls, of secret rooms, a place of magic and enchantment. The battlements and gun platforms have become a garden which surrounds the whole castle, and outside, beneath the great wall of the castle, there is a little park with fallow deer in it.

The Hall of the Knights has been converted into a great dining room with a most beautiful stucco ceiling. Here excellent meals are served by mellow candle light at night. In the Summer, during the day, we sometimes eat in the courtyard of the castle.

A thousand acres of forest still belong to the castle, here and there are red deer and roe deer and sometimes wild boar. Bears have been known to come in from Yugoslavia and occasionally wolves in a very hard winter.

The recipe for the Bernstein Cake comes from here.


Bernstein Walnut Cake

6 eggs200 grams (6 1/2 ounces) sugar1 teaspoon cinnamon powder1 lemon1 teaspoon vanilla sugar170 grams (5 1/2 ounces) walnuts, shelled40 grams (1 1/2 ounces) white bread crumbs30 grams (1 ounce) self raising flour

• Take:5eggyolks,1egg,100grams(3 1/4ounces)sugar,1teaspooncinnamonpowder,juiceof1/2lemon,zestof1/2lemon,1teaspoonvanillasugarandbeatalltogetheruntilfrothywithanelectrichandwhisk.

• Take:5eggwhites,100grams(3 1/4ounces)sugar,andbeattogetherwiththeelectrichandwhisk.

• Take:170grams(5 1/2ounces)walnuts,veryfinelychopped,40grams(11/4ounces)whitebreadcrumbs,30grams(1ounce)selfraisingflourandmixtogether.

• Foldthefirst2mixturestogetherandthenfoldinthethird.• Greaseacaketinwitharemovablebaseandfillitwiththemixture,andbakeforonehourina

mediumoven,Gas5,376ºFahrenheitor190ºCentigrade.

The Icing

8 tablespoons of icing sugarjuice of 1/2 lemon

• Mixuntilverythickandthenthinwithalittlehotwater.Letitcoolbeforeicingthecake.alternatively, you can use a butter icing.

Menu No. 16

DInner

stuffed Vine leaf Dolmas

Ibithenco roast leg of lamb

little roast Potatoes

Broccoli with Melted Butter and saffron

al Zahra’s apricots

suggested Wine: a spanish red rioja wine with the lamb, Marques de la Murietta (red), and a very cold,

white wine such as Montilla which comes from Cordoba with the apricots.


stuffed Vine leaves

These are found throughout the middle east, in Greek and even Italian cooking. They can be served hot or cold, and the filling varies considerably. here is an excellent recipe which is also quite easy to make. Where fresh vine leaves are unavailable, it is best to buy the vine leaves which are preserved in brine and which are readily available.

1/4 pound (1/2 cup or 110 grams) rice1/2 pound (220 grams) vine leaves1/2 pound (220 grams) chicken livers1 onion, finely chopped1 tomato, skinned and chopped2 tablespoons finely chopped celery leaves3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley2 cloves garlic, cut into slivers2 tablespoon tomato concentratejuice of 1 lemonsalt and freshly ground black pepper

• Topreparethem,puttheminalargebowlandpourplentyofboilingwateroverthem.Makesurethatthewatergetsinbetweenthelayersoftheleavesandleavethemtosoakfor1/2hour.

• After1/2hour,removethevineleaves,drainthemwell,soaktheleavesagaininfresh,coldwa-terandrepeatthisprocessthreetimessothatyouhaveremovedallthebrineinwhichtheyarepacked.

• Freshvineleaves,ifused,canbesoftenedbyputtingthemintoboilingwater,afewatatime,untiltheybecomesoft.

• Soakandwashthericeinboilingwaterandthenrinseitwellwithcoldwateranddrainitthor-oughly.

• Frythechickenliversinalittleoiluntilpartlycooked.Chopthemandmixtheminalargemixingbowlwiththerice,thechoppedonion,parsley,celery,tomato,saltandpepper.Addthetomatoconcentrateandmixagain.

• Placeavineleafonaplate,putaheapedteaspoonfulofthemixtureinthemiddleofit,foldthestemendupoverthefillingmixture,thenfoldinthesidestowardsthemiddleandrollituplikealittle,fatcigar.Squeezeitlightlyinthepalmofyourhandandputononeside.Continuetofillthevineleavesuntilallthemixturehasbeenused.

• Linethebottomofafireproofdishorlargepanwithathicklayerofvineleaves,thenpackthestuffedvineleavesontopastightlyasyoucan,insertingsliversofgarlicbetweenthelittlecylin-dersoftheleaveshereandthere.

• Nowsprinklethelemonjuiceoverthetopofthepacked,stuffedvineleavesandaddabout1/4pint(150fluidouncesor1/2cup)waterinwhichthe2tablespoonsoftomatoconcentratehavebeendissolved.

• Putaplateontopofthevineleafrollstopreventthemcomingundoneandcoverthesaucepanordishwithalid.

• Cookveryslowlyfor2hours,addingwaterfromtimetotimeasitisabsorbed.


Ibithenco stuffed leg of lamb

for this dish, it is necessary to have a large terra-cotta pot with a lid. such a pot is useful for all sorts of dishes, but for this one it is essential.

4 hard boiled eggs, sliced4 to 5 pounds (2 1/2 kilos) leg of lamb1 apple, peeled, cored and diced5 garlic cloves, chopped3 tablespoons chopped parsley5 hot chili peppers, seeded and finely chopped1 large onion, chopped2 shallots, chopped3 tablespoons oil and 2 tablespoons butter

• Trim,washandrubsaltandpepperintothelegoflamb.• Inablender(weusedtouseapestleandmortar)blendthegarlic,parsleyandtheseededchili

peppersuntilveryfine.• Cutslitsundertheskinofthelambandfillwithabout1/2teaspoonfulofthismixtureforeach

slit.• Puttheterra-cottapotontheheatwiththeoilandbutter,andwhenhot,putinthedicedapple

andthechoppedonion.Whenthesearegolden,putinthelegoflambandcookslowlyfor21/4 hours,whenitshouldbecooked,dependingonthedepthofthemeat.Cookontopoftheheatusingamediumflameandwithaheatdefusingpadtopreventtheterra-cottapotbreaking.

• Whencooked,removethelegoflambfromthepotandcarveit,arrangingtheslicesofmeatonaservingdish.Spreadslicesofhardboiledeggoverthemeatandservehot.

• Taketheresiduefromthebottomofthepot,strainthefatoffit,patwithkitchenpapertoremoveexcessivegreaseandserveitasasaucearoundthemeat.Servewithsmall,roastpotatoes.

Some years ago I spent six months with my family on the island of Ibiza, one of the Balearic Islands in the Mediter-ranean. At that time, there were one or two boats per week (perhaps) in the Summer, and usually none at all in the Winter. There was a hotel of sorts, and two bars in Ibiza, clean Domingos and dirty Domingos. The island was still quite untouched by tourism and was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to in my life. We had a small house with the garden running right down to the sea. It had no electricity and the cooking was over charcoal only. We spent a marvelous six months there, swimming in gin-clear water filled with thousands of fish, exploring the Phoenician Port, now sunk beneath the sea, bringing up amphorae, Roman, Moorish and Carthaginian pottery from the sea bed, walking through the pines and across the gloriously beautiful country and everywhere, the scent of wild herbs and flowers heavy in the air. There were little, sandy coves surrounded by steep cliffs crowned with pines, secret places which could only be reached by boat and where we spent the days picnicking and swimming.Now all that has gone and I am told that in the Summer, 63 aero planes loaded with tourists land every day and the coast, the pines, the sandy bays and virtually the entire island has vanished under concrete, and where once the herbs and wild flowers grew between the rocks, with twisted stunted pines framing incredible natural beauty, there are now concrete block hotels, discos and hot dog stalls. I am glad that I saw it as it once was.In those days, we had Maria Serra who came to cook for us and from her I learned the traditional recipes of Ibiza. These are very interesting in that they are totally different from those on the neighboring islands of Majorca and Minorca and have been handed down from a great antiquity. Some are certainly Arab or Moorish, but others are probably very much older and may even have come down from the Carthaginians more than 2,000 years ago. Already when we were in Ibiza, these recipes were being lost, the young people did not care about them, could not be bothered with them, and there were in fact a very few people who still know them. Senora Maria Serra was one. This is a delicious way of cooking lamb.


Broccoli with Melted Butter and saffron

• Cleanthebroccoliverywell,removingallleavesandhard,woodystems.• Thebroccolispearsshouldbecookedlikeasparagus,standinguprightinalittlewaterreaching

halfwayupthestems,sothatthestemsareboiledandthetopsaresteamed.Thewatershouldbelightlysaltedandthebroccolitiedtogetherinbunchessothattheywillstanduprightintheboiler.Youcanusetheasparagusboilerforthiswithgreatadvantageortheycanbeputstand-ingupinasaucepanwiththelidon.Usuallytheywilltakeabout15or20minutes,dependingonhowyoungtheyareandhowthickthebunchesare,tocook.

• Thestemshouldbelightlypared,likeasparagusbeforeboiling.• Whendone,theyshouldbeservedonadish,withmeltedbutterpouredoverthemtowhichhas

beenaddedalittlesaffrontogiveitcolor.

al Zahra’s apricots

This dish of dried fruit comes from here and I like to think that it was eaten in the lovely marble city and by al Zahra herself. Certainly, it is very old and something almost identical to it was eaten in Baghdad in the 5th century and, no doubt, brought to southern spain by the Moors from north africa in the 7th and 8th centuries. It is a cooling and really rather delicious sweet.

1/4 pound (110 grams) seedless raisins1/2 pound (220 grams) dried apricots2 ounces (55 grams or j cup) flaked almonds1 1/2 tablespoons pine nuts2 strips lemon rind1 strip orange rind1 full tablespoon each Orange Flower Water and Rose Water

• Washtheapricotsandraisinsverywellandputtheminalargeglassbowlwiththenutsandtheorangeandlemonrind,addtheflowerwaters,andstirwelltogether.Nowaddcoldwateruntilallthecontentsofthebowlarecovered.

• Coverthebasinwithstretchandsealandputintherefrigeratorandallowtosoakfor2to3days.• Takefromtherefrigeratorverycold,butnotfrozen.ServewithcreamorYoghurt(unflavored).

Menu No. 17

DInner

Potato and Watercress soup

Porco Veneziano

spinach with Parmesan

Trinidad Bananas

suggested Wine: Pinot Grigot from the region of Venice or any other dry, white wine


Potato and Watercress soup

frankly, I do not care for the Portuguese cooking. They have some truly dreadful dishes such as Porco alen-tejano which is usually hunks of fat pork, sometimes with the hair still on it, swimming in grease and served with clams. There is another disgusting dish which has the tail of a dried codfish floating about in it. a great delicacy is dried cod, “baccalao”, boiled and served with a very strong, rancid olive oil and sometimes accompanied with chick peas as hard as bullets and just about as digestible. There are some things, how-ever, which are good and some dishes which are excellent. Potato and Watercress soup is one of them.

1 clove garlic2 good bunches watercress2 medium onions500 grams (about 1 pound) potatoes30 grams (1 ounce) butter1 tablespoon flour2 egg yolks6 cups (48 fluid ounces or 2 1/2 pints or 1.25 liters) strong chicken stocknutmegsaltpepper

• Cleanthewatercressverywell,removinganyroots.Washitseveraltimesandthenchopitupveryfinely.Peelandchoptheonions,thepotatoesandgarlic.

• Inalargeskillet,meltthebutterandthenaddtheonionsandgarlic.Cookthemfortwoorthreeminutesoruntilsoft.Addtheflourandstirinwell.Nowaddthechickenstock,stirringcontin-uouslyoverahotflameuntilthesoupboils.Addthechoppedwatercress,thepotatoes,thenut-megandtheseasoningtotasteandcontinuecookingoveralowheatuntilthepotatoiscookedandtender.

• Putthesoupthroughablender,pourintoapanandblendintheeggyolks(seebelow).Reheatthesoupandservehot,butdonotboil.Garnishwithafewwatercressleavesbeforeserving.

• Whenaddingtheeggyolks,firstseparatetheyolksintoabowl,beatthemwithafork,putsomeofthesoupintothisbowlandmix.Thenputmixturebackintosoupandstirinwell.


Porco Veneziano (Venetian Pork)

This is a traditional dish from Venice, and is, I believe, the best of all ways in which to cook pork. This dish, however, used to be made for us by lisa Cuccato, who cooked for us and looked after our property in Italy for some 40 years. she was a Venetian, and there is no doubt that the dish originates from there.

3 pounds (1 1/2 kilos) rolled, boned loin of pork18 large slices white bread, fried (French bread is the best)1 1/4 pints (25 fluid ounces or 700 milliliters or 3 cups) milk3 ounces (90 grams) butter3 tablespoons oilsalt and black pepperground cinnamon, start with a teaspoonful and add more if you require a stronger cinnamon flavour

• Meltthebutterandoiltogetherinalargepan(asyouhavetomovethemeataboutuntilitisbrowned).AlargeironCocotteisprobablybest.Ifyoudonotownsuchautensil,useaheatresistingmatunderanormalpan,asthisdishmustbecookedveryslowlyandcanburneasily.

• Whenthebutterandoilishot,putintheporkandbrowncarefullyonallsides.Whenitiswellbrowned,add1/2pintmilk(aboutacup)andbringtotheboil.Addsaltandpeppertotasteandthecinnamon.Bastethemeatfrequentlywhilecooking.Cookslowlyonaloweredheatuntilthemilkcoagulateswiththejuicesfromthemeat.Repeatthisoperationtwicemorewiththeremainderofthemilk.Thisoperationtakesfrom11/2to2hours.

• Whenthemeatiscooked,removeitfromthepanandkeephotwhileyoufrythebread.Scrapethecoagulatedmilkandjuices,whichbynowhavemadeathicksauceinthebottomofthepan.Spreadthisontheslicesoffriedbread.Carvethemeatinslices,andarrangethecarvedmeatandthefriedbreadsliceswiththesaucesonthemonalargeservingdish.

• Thiscanbekeptwarminalowovenuntilrequiredtobebroughttothetable.


Thousands of tourists go each year to Granada in Southern Spain where the Hispanic Moors built their great fortress palace on the Red Hill, the Alhambra. It is beautiful and at the same time impressive: the great towers and battlements of the fortress and the cool courts and tinkling fountains of the palace. For the Moors who had spent so many centuries in the waterless desert, there was nothing more beautiful than the sound of running water, the music of fountains or the still mirror of pools. Their halls too were decorated with stucco to resemble stylized stalactites dropping from the shadowy ceilings, a memory of those caves deep in the Atlas Mountains.

Not so many tourists go to Cordoba where once flourished the most important University in the world, and even fewer go into the Sierra Moreana, the Dark Mountain, behind the city where a thousand years ago, the Hispanic Moorish Princes rode and hunted in the cool glens and amongst the walnut and chestnut forests. It was at the foot of this Sierra Moreana that Al Mansour built a dream city for his Love. She was called Al Zahra, the Flower, and he called his city after her. Workmen came from all over the Mediterranean, craftsmen, stonemasons and carpenters, Ships brought blocks of the pure, white marble from Carara in Italy, and little by little a marvelous city rose, Al Zahra, a wonder of the world.

Where at Granada they had been content to work in stucco and plaster, here all was cut stone, the white marble was cut and pierced and worked into marvelous, lacey tracery, great marble basins flanked with colonnades and avenues of cypresses adorning the palace. Fountains of white marble played in the palace courts and the city set against the background of the mountain and surrounded by forest must have been like a white jewel glittering in its emerald cup. It is still there today, strange shaped mounds under a park land of turf which in the Spring is covered with wild flowers. Only a tiny part of it has been excavated, just enough to see what it must once have been before it was destroyed.

The white marble city of Al Zahra had a short life, only a few years after it was completed, the wild, Berber horsemen crossed over from North Africa and under their black banners, and in the name of Allah, they sacked the city and burnt it, sacked it and burnt it again, and yet again, and in the frenzy of the religious hatred of what they thought to be a heresy of Islam, they systematically set to work to smash up everything in the city until there was little or nothing left larger than a man’s fist.

Al Mansur was driven north but Al Zahra perished in the flames of the city. He was later to return to take a terrible revenge, but his Love and the city had gone forever.


Trinidad Bananas

6 large bananas1 teaspoon crystalline ginger, very finely chopped3 tablespoons raw cane Muscavado sugar1 cup Bacardi white rum4 tablespoons butter

• Cutthebananasopenlengthwise,removingthefruitwithateaspoonandcuttingthemintosmallslicesasyoudoso.Reservetheskins.

• Putthefruitinabowl,addhalfthesugar,thefinelychoppedginger,andtheBacardirumandallowtomarinateforabout1/2hour.

• Preheattheoven.Withalittleofthebutter,greasewellaflat,ovenproofdishlargeenoughtoholdallthebananasinasinglelayersidebyside.Putthebananaskinsintothedishandfilltheskinsevenlywiththemarinatedfruitmixture,pouringtheremainingjuicesoverthem.Sprinkleontheremainingsugar,andpouroverthebutterwhichisleftandwhichyouhavemelted.

• Putthedishintheovenandbakefor25minutesatGas4,350ºFahrenheitor180ºCentigrade.• Serveveryhot.

The skins will have turned black, and this dish may not sound very attractive, but in fact it is excellent.


In the summer we go to stay with our friends, Count and Countess Stubenberg, at their lovely old castle in Austria. It was built in the 11th century and the same family that built it is still living in it.

There is a myth to the effect that those who live in these great castles and houses live a life of idle indolence. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth. In most cases, the owners and their sons work a 10 hour day, or more, often starting at 6 in the morning and finishing late at night, 6 days a week. They are professionals at running their properties, and they do it very well indeed. In many cases, they have degrees in Agriculture and Forestry, and the younger generation all have degrees and qualifications. None of them would be able to keep their properties for long if they were not efficient, and so far from being drones of Society, they contribute enormously to the national wealth. They have introduced the latest methods in forestry, cattle breeding and in agriculture long before the state forests and properties and in most cases, are not only extremely efficient, but the foresters and estate workers have conditions of housing and employment which are a model for the country.

The Stubenberg’s estate is one of the most beautiful and consists of forests of different conifers, upland meadows, mountain torrents between towering limestone cliffs and everywhere in the woodland glades there are wild flowers. Here too there are Chamois, Moufflon with their huge, curling horns and roe deer. They shoot the roe deer from wooden platforms built either in the tops of trees or towers made of pine poles. Some of these platforms are very high, especially those built in trees, and they sway in the wind.

The deer are shot either at dawn, or at dusk, when they come out to feed in the clearings in the forest or on the alpine meadows, and although it may sound easy, it is not. The target over the roe deer’s heart is only about 1j inches in radius, quite frequently the roe is moving, sometimes at an angle, the light is usually very bad, as it is the first light of dawn or gathering dusk, and quite often the platform is moving too due to the wind. At a distance of 150 to 200 metres such a target is not easy to hit.

The venison of the roe deer is the best of all. In Scotland, they shoot the old stags in the rut, and the meat is frequently smelly and wiry. The Victorians used to bury it and dig it up when it was rotting and eat it then, but I do not like “high” meat of any sort and even the thought of it repulses me.

When we had a large property of our own, we used to have a lot of venison. My children tell a somewhat exaggerated story of how they used to be fed on venison pie, venison pasties, venison stew and venison hot pot, roast venison, boiled venison, hot venison, cold venison, minced venison and fried venison, and in fact neither of them will willingly eat it now.

In fact, venison can be delicious, and here is a recipe given to me by Countess Stubenberg, which I find particularly good.

Menu No. 18

DInner

oeufs Murettes

Venison

Potatoes with Marjoram

roasted onion

ricotta with Barack

suggested Wine: Gevrey Chambertin or an Italian Barolo


oeufs Murettes

My uncle was a great sportsman, a first class fisherman and an excellent shot. Both he and my aunt were gourmets, who knew and appreciated good food and wine. unfortunately my uncle died some years ago, but my aunt has kindly given me some of their recipes. she is an exceptional cook and I have always had marvelous food in their house. The oeufs Murette is one of her recipes. They are quite easy to make and delicious.

3/4 cup lean, diced bacon1 tablespoon melted butter1 medium onion or 3 shallots, finely sliced1 clove garlic, finely chopped1 1/2 tablespoons flour1 cup red wineBouquet Garni1 sprig parsley1 sprig thyme1 cup hot bouillon made from 1 chicken stock cube or a light chicken stock

• Sautéthe3/4cupdicedbaconinthe1tablespoonofmeltedbutter.Whencooked,removethebaconfromthepanandreserve.Nowaddtothebutterinthepan,thechoppedonion(orbetter,shallots)andthegarlic,stirringoveralowheatuntiltheyturnpalegolden.Sprinklethecookedonionandgarlicwiththe1 1/2tablespoonsofflourandstirwelltogetherontheheatuntiltheyblend.Nowaddthecupofhotstockandthecupofredwine,alsotheBouquetGarniandtheparsley,thymeandbayleaf.Addalittlesaltandpeppertotaste.Stirallwelltogetherandallowtosimmeroveralowfirefor20minutes.

WhIle The sauCe Is CookInG, Take:

6 good slices French bread2 ounces (60 grams) butter6 eggs

• Frythe6slicesofFrenchbreadinthebutter.Putthemononesideandkeephot.Inapanofboil-ingwater,poachthe6eggs,dippingthemfirstintotheboilingwaterforabout25secondsandthenbreakingthemintothewater,towhichhasbeenaddedatablespoonofvinegar.

• Itisimpossibletosayhowlongtheywilltakeasthisdependsonthetemperatureoftheeggs,iftheyhavejustbeentakenfromtherefrigeratororhownewtheyare,butusually3minutesisenough.

• Whentheeggsarenearlypoached,increasetheheatunderthesauceanddropthedicedbaconintoit,bringingittotheboil.

• Thanarrangetheeggsonthefriedbreadandpourthehotsauceoverthemandserveveryhot.


larded Venison

You can use either the haunch or the saddle of the deer for this recipe.

Haunch or a saddle of venison, preferable roe deerSmoked lard (and larding needle), smoked, fat baconMustard, a rather bland mustard such as DijonFreshly ground black pepperRosemarySaltCooking oil, quantity depending on the size of the piece of venison2 medium onions2 carrots, chopped6 small sticks of celerya good bunch of parsley6 or 7 juniper berries2 bay leaves1 cup boiling water1/2 pint (1/4 liter or 1 cup) sour cream2 teaspoons red currant jelly1/4 pint (1/8 liter or1/2 cup) red wine

• Firstremovethetransparentskinwhichisfoundoverthemeatandundertheouterskinofthedeer.Thencutthesmoked,fatbaconintostripsverythinly,andthreadintothemeatlengthways,usingalardingneedle.Rubthemeatwithalittlemustard.However,becarefulNOTtouseaverystrongmustard.Tothemustard,addalittlefreshlygroundblackpepper,rosemaryandsalt,andrubthemixturewellintothemeatallover.

• Heatoilinacasserolelargeenoughtotakethepieceofvenisonandinitfry2mediumonions,coarselychopped,2choppedcarrots,6smallsticksofcelery,coarselycutandagoodbunchofparsley.

• Fryforafewminutesandthenaddthemeat,6or7juniperberries,2bayleavesand1/4liter(onecup)ofboilingwater.Putalidonthecasserole,andputitinapreheatedovenforfrom1to11/2hoursatGas5,375ºFahrenheitor190ºCentigrade.Itisdifficulttosayexactlyhowlongasthiswillvaryonthesizeofthepieceofvenison.Whenthemeatiscookedandtender,takeitfromthecasseroleandremoveallthemeatfromthebonescarefully,andcutitupintothickslices.

The sauCe

• Passthevegetablesatthebottomofthecasserolethroughafinesieve,ormakethemintoafinepureeintheblender.Letthemrestforafewminutessothatanyfatwillcometothetop.Re-movethiswithaspoonorabsorbentpaper.

• Nowadd1/2liter(1cupor1/2pint)ofsourcream(youcanmixdoublecreamwithyoghurtifnosourcreamisavailable).

• Add2teaspoonsofredcurrantjellyand1/8liter(1/2cupor1/4pint)ofredwine.Heatthesauceandcorrectforseasoning.

• Toserve,poursomeofthesauceoverthevenisonbeforeservingandtherestofitinasauceboatonthetable


Potatoes with Marjoram

This is known in austria as Majorankartoffel and is an excellent way of serving potatoes.

marjorampotatoesflourcooking fat, preferably beef drippingvinegarsalt and pepper

• Peelthepotatoes,boiltheminsaltedwaterandthenslicethem.• Makearouxfromthefatandflourandthenaddthedriedmarjoram,thevinegarandpepperto

taste.Addenoughofthewaterinwhichthepotatoeswereboiledtomakethesauce.Thenputtheslicesofboiledpotatoescarefullyintothissauce,takingcarenottobreakthemup.Leavethepotatoesinthewarmsauceatthelowestheatforabout30minutes.Thenbringtotheboiljustbeforeserving.

roasted onions

Thebestwaytoroastonionsistopeelthem,thenblanchetheminboiling,saltedwaterforatleast5minutes.Thentransferthemtoapanwithplentyoflardandcookthematthetopoftheoven.Turnthemfrequentlyinthehotlarduntiltheyarewellbrownedallover.Theycanbecookedoverthemeatintheovenorontheirown.Alternatively,youcancooktheonion

inthemeatjuicewiththemeat.Inthiscase,blanchethemasbefore,butarrangethemroundthejointinthepanandturnthemfromtimetotime,allowingfrom30to45minutescookingtime,dependingonthesizeoftheonionandtheheatoftheoven.

ricotta Barack

ricotta is an Italian cheese, not unlike a cottage cheese or Philadelphia, but do not try to make this sweet with the latter two as it will not work! You can buy fresh ricotta at most Italian delicatessens, but make sure that it is fresh.

Barack is a hungarian eau de Vie, and this too can be obtained at most shops selling hungarian food and specialties. however, if it is unobtainable, you can also use strega, which is an Italian liqueur which you will certainly be able to buy at any Italian shop selling Italian food and wines.

1 1/2 pounds (750 grams) ricotta3 fluid ounces (75 milliliters) liqueur (Barack or Strega)2 heaped tablespoons grated milk chocolate

• Mixwelltogetherinabowlandthenpassthemixturethroughasieveintotheservingdish.• Sprinklethegratedchocolateoverthetopandservewithanysweet,crispbiscuits.


The PICnIC anD The BarBeCueNobody knows the origins of the word ‘picnic’, but it is probably of English origin, neither the

Spaniards nor the Italians have any word of their own for it, and the French have borrowed the English and transformed it into ‘piquenique’ (or it may be that the English took it from the French.)

Generally, the Italians do not care for picnics, and years ago they were almost unknown. Now they have become more popular, but are somewhat elaborate affairs with a table, stools, enormous quantities of food cooked at home and brought out.

The Spaniards go in for picnics when they go on a Romeria, which actually means both a pilgrimage and a picnic. On these occasions, nearly the whole village will set out on a pilgrimage to a nearby shrine, often on horseback and carry panniers filled with food and wine with them. It is a feast and a religious occasion all mixed together with a village outing.

In France, it is an occasion for a rather elaborate meal, again with tables and stools table cloths, different dishes and generally a rather different occasion to the simple picnic, sitting on the grass with sandwiches, hard boiled eggs, perhaps a pork pie and fruit, which is the usual English picnic.

Eating out of doors is usually more popular in the northern countries in the Summer than in the Latin countries, and also perhaps because there is more feeling for the beauty of the countryside itself. I well remember driving from Genoa down the beautiful Ligurian coast with a Genoese businessman who had made a vast fortune in insurance. He was heavy going, and my attempts to make conversation were getting nowhere. In desperation I remarked on the marvelous beauty spread out before us, and indeed it was a breath taking view of mountains and sea, pine woods and little rocky coves. The Genoese glanced at it and remarked, “Non me piace la natura.” That is, “I don’t like Natura.” After that there was no further conversation until we reached our destination.

For a good many years now, the Barbecue has become popular, especially in America but also in Europe. Usually the menu is pretty well the same, with grilled steaks or chicken, chops and perhaps sausages. For a change you might care to make a Paella, one of the very best dishes in Spanish cooking. There are dozens of different ways in which it can be made, but this is a classic recipe from Valencia and you will find it very good indeed. This is the only barbecue menu in the book, but one day if you are eating out of doors, you might like to try it. Of course, you do not have to eat it out of doors, and it would make an equally excellent menu for luncheon or dinner in the Summer.

The BarBeCueWhen we lived in Ireland, we had a house at the end of the World. From the windows we could

look 30 miles down the bay without seeing another house, a road, a telegraph pole or any sign at all of any human habitation. The house was situated on the edge of the sea, with gardens running down to a little bay, where the smugglers used to land brandy at night. It was wild, incredibly beautiful and infinitely remote.

The house was approached by a long drive which ran through a farm yard just off the main road, and then ran down towards the sea for a mile or so. There were iron gates, then the drive made a sharp right hand turn, otherwise one drove into the sea, and then through more gates into the gardens.

There was, of course, no electric light and the house was paneled in oak. It was lit by candles and the occasional oil lamp and it was beautiful, very romantic and extremely impractical. Today, the cost of the candles would be entirely prohibitive, as we used about 50 every 2 days. The ceilings too had to be whitewashed every year. However, it was lovely, and in the Winter with a great gale roaring in from the West, wind and spray shrieking past the house, a red fire glowing in the big fireplace in the drawing room and with the candlelight dancing on the paneled walls, it has left a memory which will never fade.

Here we used to have our friends who came for the deer stalking and the shooting in the Autumn and Winter, and for the trout and salmon fishing in the Summer. There were Spaniards and Italians, Austrians and French, English and Turks, Americans and Hungarians, and we lived those halcyon days fishing on the rivers, out in the boat on the bay, or shooting in the mountains.

An old friend of ours, Prince Alaeddin, with whom we used to stay in Egypt, came here several times. Once he came with another friend, a Frenchman who had been a Minister for something or other in the French Government. The last evening of their stay with us, we decided that each of us would cook some national dish for dinner that night. We had been out shooting all day and Alaeddin


had shot an extremely good stag that he had been trying to get for the past 2 years. Our French friend too had shot a good buck and we were all very happy.

The mountain where we used to stalk deer was quite some distance from our house, and when we finished shooting in the evening, I agreed to drive back with Alaeddin, while my husband took the Frenchman in our car.

Alaeddin had hired a self drive car from the nearest small town to our house and he drove it with great abandon. I will certainly never forget the drive home that evening, although much of it is blurred. I know at one stage we nearly hit a cow and on several occasions we hit the banks on the side of the road. For some reason, Alaeddin was convinced that this wretched car would go quite well cross country, and from time to time, he just left the road where it made a bend and drove across the bog land until he rejoined the road on the other side. Happily, in those days, and in that part of Ireland, there was virtually no traffic, and by some miracle we finally reached the turning off, through the farm yard and down the lane to the house. At this time there were various pieces of furze bush, trees and other assorted vegetation adhering to the car. which also bore other scars of battle such as dents, some pieces had been torn off, crumpled fenders and broken glass.

Just to one side of the farm yard was a huge midden which was about 12 or 15 yards long and quite deep and it was entirely filled with very smelly manure. “Look out for the manure heap,” I shouted, but it was too late.

However, such was the speed at which Alaeddin was driving that we went straight through it. Suddenly we disappeared into blackness and nearly came to a stop before we emerged on the far side. Alaeddin switched on the windscreen wipers and was able to clear a small gap which was sufficient to enable him to drive.

When we had wobbled down the drive and eventually got home, I got out rather gingerly and had a look at the car. In fact, it was almost impossible to see any car at all, as the entire manure heap appeared to have stuck to it. I went inside quickly and tried to forget the horrid thing.

An hour later, all preparations for dinner were going ahead with enthusiasm. Esnault, the Frenchman had swathed himself in a large apron. He had announced that he was going to cook ’Moules Mariniere’ or mussels in white wine. He was in the kitchen with a large cauldron and apparently making good progress.

Alaeddin told us that he would cook kebabs “a la Turque” and for this he said he wanted an open fire and also a spit. The only open fire large enough was in the drawing room and we did not have a spit, so he took one of the old cavalry sabres which were hanging on the wall in the hall, and, seating himself cross legged in front of the fire in the drawing room, he cooked the kebabs, spitted on the saber on the open fire. My mother in law who very much liked Alaeddin, had seated herself cross legged on a cushion on the floor beside him, with the whisky decanter between them.

Onto this scene came Dicky Dick, the unfortunate man from whom Alaeddin had rented the car. He had come to take it back. My husband heard him drive up, and went to the front door to let him in. He had just come into the hall, when there were shouts of Gallic frenzy; something had gone wrong in the kitchen. Suddenly the kitchen door burst open and Esnault appeared with a huge steaming cauldron. He did not see Dicky Dick and nearly bumped into him, upsetting some of the boiling water over him. He apologized, speaking rapidly in French and disappeared as suddenly as he had come.

I asked Dicky Dick if he would like a drink and took him into the drawing room He advanced into the room and then stood stock still while he took in the scene before him He then turned and said that he had to be getting back immediately. In fact, he seemed in a great hurry to leave, so my husband took him out to the car.

“Where is my car?” Dicky Dick asked, looking about him.“Inside the manure heap.” My husband replied.Dicky Dick did not say a word but he walked all round the car very carefully and then suddenly

rushed back to the car in which he had come, with his mechanic. He flung himself into the seat and shouted to his man, “Get away from here! It’s raving mad, they all are.”

As he drove down to the sea, I felt that perhaps he might have had some reason for this outburst.However, soon after the dinner was ready, and what a dinner it was! The mussels were

marvelous, the kebabs were delicious and I remember that it was a particularly happy evening which went on far into the night.

Alaeddin had to buy Dicky Dick a new car, but that was another day.

Menu No. 19

BarBeCue

andalusian Gaspacho

Paella a la Valenciana

stuffed red and Green Peppers with Danish Cheese

Cheese Board

fresh fruit of the season

suggested Wine: sangrilla

To make a sangrilla, take a good spanish rioja (red wine), add a wine glass of spanish Brandy for each bottle of red wine. Then add 2 glasses of soda (carbonated) water for each bottle of wine. add several slices of orange and lemon, the juice of one lemon per jug of sangrilla and

sugar to taste. add several large sprigs of mint and borage if possible. fill the jugs up with ice cubes and serve very cold. It is perhaps best

made the day before and kept very cold in the refrigerator. You can also use Cointreau in place of the Brandy depending on taste.


Gaspacho

This is perhaps the best known and one of the best of the spanish soups. It come from southern spain and is almost unknown in the north. It is probably very old and is a peasant soup made from the scraps and odds and ends. In origin, the name probably comes from ‘Gaspa’, a roman word meaning leftovers or odds and ends ‘scraps’, and ‘acho ‘, which is a pejorative which exists in both spanish and Italian today meaning something bad. Thus Gaspacho would mean ‘miserable little scraps’ or something of this sort. There are very many ways of making it, and it is now often served abroad in rather smart restaurants and is quite unrecognizable, having been liquefied, pasteurized, purified and metamorphosed into something which is cold, thin and frequently rather nasty.

The original Gaspacho and the Gaspacho as it is eaten today in the farmhouses of andalusia is almost a meal in itself. again, there are many variations as one would expect in a soup which is made from avail-able scraps, but here is a recipe which is good, and you can vary it as you will.

1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon wine vinegar2 large cloves garlic, well crushed2 tablespoons stale bread crumbs1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped5 tomatoes1 green pepper, deseeded and finely chopped1/2 cucumber, peeled and chopped, with seeds removed8 or 9 almonds, peeled and crushedpepper and salt

• Putthevinegarandoilinabowlandaddthebreadcrumbs.Soakthemforatleastanhour.Putallthevegetablesinablenderandprocessuntiltheyhavebecomeasmoothpaste.Thiscanalsobedonewithapestleandmortar,butittakesagreatdeallonger.

• Nowaddthecrushedalmonds,thepepperandsaltandmixinwell.Removefromtheblenderandaddcoldwater.Putintherefrigeratorandchillforseveralhoursbeforeserving.Donotservewithlumpsoficefloatingaboutinit.

The GasPaCho Is serVeD WITh a nuMBer of sMall BoWls ConTaInInG:

Chopped hard boiled eggs Onion, finely chopped (Spring onion is the best) Toast, diced into small squares (optional) Red peppers, diced Green peppers, diced Tomatoes, cut into small pieces Cucumber, diced

The guests add a little from each of these to their soup. Gaspacho should always be served with these side dishes which are added to the soup. The soups which are served in many hotels and are called Gaspacho often come from a tin and with ice cubes floating about in them; also without any addition or side dishes. They are not Gaspacho. Ideally this soup should be eaten from wooden bowls with wooden spoons.

There is a drink called Gaspacho Blanco which is made from olive oil, vinegar, water, garlic and almonds and comes from Cordoba, but this is a drink rather than a soup. Gaspacho Sevillano is different again but is similar to the recipe given above. The Gaspacho Madrileno (from Madrid) is again different, while the Gaspacho from Estremadura is something else and can contain bits of game. From Malaga, it includes grapes, and the Gaspachuelo which also comes from Malaga has a base of fish, potatoes and eggs but no tomatoes. However, all have this in common, in that they are supposed to be made from leftovers and scraps found in peasant houses in the different districts.


Paella a al Valenciana

There are as many ways of making a Paella as there are of making Gaspacho and there are no set rules. The ingredients can be largely what you have available and may include pretty well any kind of seafood, as well as chicken, pork, rabbit and other meat. Basically, a Paella is made from meat, seafood and chopped vegetables with rice, which can be added before or after the stock in which the dish is cooked.

This is a fairly classic recipe, but you can alter it as you wish.

1 small sherry glass of sherry1 small sherry glass of olive oil1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into small strips3 cloves garlic, finely chopped1 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika1 roasting chicken, remove the meat from the bones and cut into pieces2 full cups rice4 cups strong chicken stock (use cubes or the carcass of the chicken or both)1 pound ( 500 grams) cooked and shelled prawns5 ounces (150 grams) shelled peas18 cleaned and scrubbed mussels2 large pinches of saffron, toasted and crushed

• Heattheoilinafryingpanandaddthechoppedgarlic,cookforafewminutesandthenremovethegarlicfromtheoil.Addthetomatoes,thepepperstrips,thechoppedonionandthepiecesofchickentothegarlicflavouredoil.Sprinkleonthepaprika.Cookstirringwellforabout12minutesoveramediumheat.Stirinthericeandcontinuecookingforanother3minuteswithincreasedheat.Stirinthesaffron.Removethepanfromtheheatandaddthestock.Replaceontheheatandbringtotheboil,stirringcontinuously.Stirinthepeasandtheprawns,seasonwithsaltandpepperandreducetheheat.

• Cookonalowheatfor15minuteswhenmostoftheliquidwillhavebeenabsorbed.Stirinthesherryandputthemusselsontopofthedish,coveringthepanwithalargecover.Themusselsshouldnowopenandremoveanythatdonot.

• Cookforanother2or3minutes,whenthePaellawillbeready.• Beforeserving,thedishcanbemademoreattractivebyarrangingthemeat,peas,prawnsand

stripsofredpepperindecorativepatterns.• Forthisdish,aPaellapanisreallyanessential.Thisisalargeshallowdish,usuallymadeof

iron,about16inches(40centimeters)acrossandwithhandlesoneitherside.ThePaellaismadeinthisdishandservedinit.Somepaelladishesare,ofcoursemuchlarger,butthisisaman-ageablesizeandwillcooksufficientfor8ormorepeople,whileasmallersize,12to13inches,islargeenoughfor6.

• OtheringredientswhichmaybeputintoaPaellaare:greenbeans,snails,artichokehearts,eel,squid,parsley,nutmeg,thyme,bayleaves,cayennepepper,dicedham,rabbit,porketc.

• AgoodPaellaisadeliciousdish,andisoneofthebestmealsinSpanishcooking.Itisidealservedasanoutdoordishatabarbecueorpicnic.


red and Green Peppers with Danish Cheese stuffing

I am indebted to Madame lillian husum for this recipe. We have been friends for nearly 25 years and have had wonderful meals, marvelous parties and have laughed a lot over the years.

1 medium sized red pepper1 medium sized green pepper100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) softened butter100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) Danish Cheese, grated

• Cleanthepeppersthoroughly,andsliceoffthetops.Removetheinsidepulpandalltheseeds.• Mixthesoftenedbutterandthegratedcheeseverythoroughlyandfillthepepperswiththemix-

ture.Makesurethatthepeppersarecompletelyfilledandtherearenoairholesorairpockets.Thenputthemintherefrigeratoruntilthestuffingmixturehardens.Beforeserving,slicethepepperswithasharpknifeandarrangetheminaplatealternatively,oneredpepperandonegreenpepperslice.

• Youmayalsoputchoppedwatercressintothestuffing.Thestuffingcanbeusedforsandwiches.To serve the red and green stuffed peppers with other cheese on a cheese board, you can decorate with radishes and pieces of celery.


We were staying with friends and distant relatives of ours in Austria for the wild boar shooting. They have a marvelous estate in the Burgenland, just on the frontier of Hungary and Yugoslavia. The schloss or great house was occupied by the Russians at the end of the war and they remained there until they left Austria. When they went, there was little more than the shell of the house left. The furniture had been thrown out of the windows or broken up with axes for firewood and the house was uninhabitable. It has taken 25 years to restore the house to what it was and it is now, once again, a marvelous place.

The estate itself is very large and there are hundreds of wild boar in the forest. It was a very cold day and we had been shooting since dawn with just a few sandwiches. As dusk came on, the shooting party assembled at a clearing in the heart of the forest, in the center of which stood a thatched roofed cottage.

While the keepers were bringing in the dead boars which had been shot during the day, we had a marvelous meal of Hungarian stew washed down with Schnapps and as we were very hungry, this meal remains in my memory as it was really delicious.

When it was over, by which time it was quite dark outside, our host, the Count, asked us all to go outside, and there, on a long bed of pine branches, the wild boar had been laid out in a line, more than 30 of them, and behind each one, there stood a forester in the livery of the family holding in one hand a broad bladed boar spear and in the other a flaming resin torch. At the far end of the line, there stood the Head Keeper and behind him 2 buglers. The flames from the torches lit up the clearing, casting grotesque, dancing shadows. It was a scene from 100 or even 500 years ago.

At the signal, the 2 buglers first sounded the hunting call of the family and then, after a short pause, they sounded ‘the Mort’ or Death of the Boars.

As the last notes of the bugles died away in the forest, all the foresters suddenly plunged their torches into the ground, and the whole scene was obliterated in swirling smoke.

There was absolute silence as the smoke slowly drifted into the trees, and there is an old tradition that this symbolizes the spirits of the dead beasts returning to their lairs deep in the forest.

It was a scene which I will never forget.

Menu No. 20

PICnIC or shooTInG lunCheon

Cracker Bread with hungarian Cream Cheese

hungarian Porkolt

servietten knodel

Torta de la sierra Morena

suggested Wine: schnapps or Barack with the first course, red Burgundy type wine with the stew

While the Barbecue menu is a suggestion for a meal round the pool in the summer, the Picnic menu is a sug-

gestion for a Winter or autumn meal, which can be cooked, packed into thermos flasks and taken out for a

picnic in the country or to a shooting party.


Cheese spread for Cracker Bread

This is a variation of a hungarian cheese.

Yoghurt, 1 pint (20 fluid ounces or 2 cups)Sweet paprika, about 3 teaspoons, more or less dependent on taste.Tarragon, 2 teaspoons, very finely choppedShallots, 2 finely chopped or put through the garlic pressSalt and pepper, to taste

• Putsomebuttermuslinintoastrainer,placethestraineroverabasinandputtheyoghurtintothestrainersothattheliquiddrippingfromtheyoghurtwillfallintothebasin,leavingtheyoghurtdry.Thisusuallytakesabout12hours.

• Turntheyoghurtcheeseintoabasinandmixinthepaprikaandthefinelychoppedtarragonandshallotswhichhavebeenputthroughagarlicpress.Addsaltandfresh,blackpeppertotaste,mixverythoroughlyandputintoadish.Refrigerateforafewhours.

• Thisrecipecanbevariedbyusingchoppedchivesinsteadofthetarragonandbyaddingcarawayorpoppyseeds.


hungarian Porkolt (from the Puszta)

There are very many ways of making a goulash, which can be made with beef, pork, or mutton. here is a recipe for making a beef Porkolt, from the Puszta and has nothing to do with a goulash or a traditional Porkolt, but is equally excellent.

3 pounds ( 1 1/2 kilos) lean, chuck steak without any fat or sinew and cut into cubes2 1/4 pounds (1 kilo) tomatoes, skinned and quartered3 large onions, sliced2 cloves garlic, chopped2 sweet peppers, with seeds removed and cut lengthways into pieces or slices4 ounces (125 grams) lard5 ounces (140 grams) tinned tomato concentrate1 tablespoon sweet paprika1 teaspoon caraway seed3/4 pint (15 fluid ounces or 450 milliliters or 1 3/4 cup) white wine 1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon hot paprika and add more to taste if required (paprikas vary enormously in strength)1 flat teaspoon marjoram12 potatoes2 or 3 tablespoons sour cream (optional)black pepper and salt

• Meltthelardinalargerskilletandfrytheslicedonionandgarlicuntilgolden.• Addthemeatandfryuntilitissealed.Addthewineandalittlewater.Sprinkleinthepaprika,

thesalt,pepperandmarjoram.Coverandbraisegentlyforabout15minutesoveramediumheat.Peelthepotatoesandcutintocubes.Cleanthepeppers,removingtheseedsandcuttingthemintostrips.Cutthetomatoesintoquarters.Nowaddthevegetables,tomatoesandtomatopureeconcentratetothemeatjustasitisbecomingtender.Coveragainandcookoveralowheatfor3/4to1hour,stirringoccasionally.Putinthecarawayseeds,sugarandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Whenthemeatandvegetablesaretender,adjusttheseasoningandadd2or3tablespoonsofsourcreamandserve.


servietten knodel

This dish is also excellent with venison.

375 grams (12 ounces) white bread, cut into small cubes6 tablespoons milk4 eggs, well beaten1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped75 grams (2 1/2 ounces) buttersalt and pepper

• Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepan,andthenaddthechoppedparsley,heatandmixthoroughly.Putthebread,milk,thewell-beateneggsintoabasin,thenpouroverthisthemeltedbutterandparsley,andmixalltogetherverythoroughly.Addsaltandpeppertotaste.

• Wringoutanapkindippedinhotwater,putthemixtureintoitandformitintotheshapeofaSwissRoll.Thentieupthenapkinwiththemixtureinitverysecurely,leavingloopsattheendsothatitcanbeliftedoutoftheboilingwatereasily.Putthenapkincontainingtherollintoalargesaucepanofboiling,saltedwaterandcookforonehour.

• Whenitiscooked,removethenapkinandcuttherollintoslicesbeforeserving.note: although it is not the classic way, I personally like some chopped, marjoram or basil in with the knodel but of course, this is a matter of individual taste.

Torta de la sierra Morena (Black Mountain roll)

This is a family recipe. It is an excellent sweet and particularly popular with children.

8 ounces (250 grams) butter2 1/2 cups (American measure) sweet chocolate drinking powder1 teaspoon vanilla sugar1 1/2 tablespoons of brandy8 ounces (250 grams) digestive biscuits5 1/2 ounces (170 grams) mixed, crystallized orange and lemon peel1/2 cup (American measure) pine nuts

• Creamthebutterintheblenderandaddthechocolatepowder,thebrandyandthevanillasugarandblenduntilitbecomesacream.Putthebiscuitsinapolyethylenebagandbreakthemintosmallpieceswitharollingpinorabottle.

• Addthepinenutsandthecrystallizedpeeltothebrokenbiscuitsandmixthoroughly.Addthecreamedchocolate,butter,brandyandvanillasugarandmixalltogetherverythoroughly.Then,onasheetofoiledaluminumfoil,makethemixtureintoarollandcovertightlywiththeoiledfoil.

• Puttherollintherefrigeratorandfreezeinthefreezingcompartmentforseveralhours,orover-night,anduntilitishard.However,makesurethatitisnottoohard,sotakeitoutofthefreezersometimebeforeyouwanttoeatitotherwiseitwillbetoohardtocut.

• Sprinkletopsoftherollwithicingsugar(confectioner’ssugar),cuttherollintoslicesandserve.


The BuffeT suPPerThe Buffet Supper can be for any number of people, and usually consists of a variety of dishes from the which the guests help themselves. There is usually cold turkey and chickens as well as other cold meats, large bowls of salad, green salad, potato salad or Russian salad, other dishes such as ham mousse (which can be found in this book), a large risotto (also in this book), hard boiled eggs in mayonnaise and many other dishes. Then there are the sweets, ice cream, fruit salad, chocolate cake, chocolate mousse and so one.

A very important consideration when choosing dishes for a buffet supper is that it should be easy to eat and preferably not too messy or sticky. In most cases, have dishes which can be eaten with a fork or a spoon alone, as the moment that you have guests trying to balance plates on their knees while struggling with a knife and fork, accidents are bound to happen to the detriment of your carpet.

It is a good tip to remember that if red wine gets spilled, by far the best thing to take red wine out is white wine. I you do it soon enough and repeatedly soak with white wine, the stain will usually come out.

The presentation of a buffet supper is all important, if you have a nice silver centre piece, put it out and put flowers on the buffet with the dishes. Candles are im-portant as candle light always improves the appearance of the table. Never use your best glass as inevitably some can get broken. Punch is something generally to be avoided; frequently it is very nasty, but sometimes it is laced with a mixture of wines and spirits which will guarantee headache, if not worse.

Here are recipes for 1 or 2 dishes which are useful at a buffet supper.

Note: If you are serving soup at a buffet supper always serve it in cups and never in soup plates. Also provide plenty of napkins.

Menu No. 21

DInner

liver Pate Cake

Gussing eggs

Tomato Mousse

Beef Beauceronne

sicilian fruit salad

Continental Cake

To which can be added; rice Potatoes, Potato salad, a Green lettuce salad, hard Boiled eggs in Mayonnaise,

Cold asparagus, Chocolate Mousse and Ice Cream


liver Pate Cake

1 1/2 pounds ( 750 grams) calves’ liver1 pint (575 milliliters or 2 1/2 cups) milk2 separated egg whites5 fluid ounces (150 milliliters or 1/2 cup) double cream, stiffly whipped1/2 teaspoon allspicea pinch of cayenne pepper1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon salta wine glass full of brandy

• Cuttheliverintoslicesandputitinabowlwiththemilk,andleaveitovernight.• Puttheliverintoablenderandblenduntilabsolutelysmooth.Addtheunbeateneggwhitesand

blendagain.Putthismixtureintotherefrigeratorfor2hours.Addthesalt,pepper,brandyandallspiceandmixwellinwithaspoon.Foldinthewhippedcreamandthenturnoutthemixtureintoabutteredsoufflédish.

• Standthesoufflémouldinalargebowlofwatersothatthewatercomes11/2inchesupthesidesofthedish.Thewatershouldbewarmbutnotboiling.Coverthetopofthemouldwithbutterpapersandasecondcoveringoffoil.Placethebowlofwarmwaterwiththemouldcontainingthemixtureintheoven,middleshelf,andcookfor1 1/2hoursatGas4,350ºFahrenheitor180ºCentigrade.

• Whenitiscooked,takeitoutandunmoulditontoaservingdishsurroundingthecakewithdicedaspicanddecoratingthetopofthecakewitholives.

• Servewithagreensalad,littleonions,gherkinsandFrenchbreadortoast.


Gussing eggs

a delicious dish from schloss Draskovich in austria near the hungarian frontier.

12 eggs10 ounces ( 1 cup or 300 milliliters) sour cream1 pound (500 grams) ricotta cheese4 tomatoes2 to 3 tablespoons pure horseradish (not the cream)1 teaspoon mustard powdersalt and white peppera little sweet paprika and parsley spring for decoration

• Hardboiltheeggs,removetheshellsandcutthemintohalves.Passthericottacheesethroughasieve.Dipthetomatoesintoboilingwatertoremovetheirskinsthencutthemintoquartersandsqueezeoutthepipsandthejuice.Chopthetomatopulpveryfinely.

• Tothesouredcream,addfirstthefinelychoppedtomatopulp.Thenaddthehardboiledegghalves.Seasonwithsaltandwhitepepper.Addthehorseradishusingoneortwotablespoonsaccordingtotasteandthemustardpowder.Mixwell.NowcarefullyfoldthemixtureintothesievedRicottacheese.Putthemixtureintotherefrigeratorandchillthoroughly.

• Whenrequired,transfertoaflatservingdish,surroundwithsprigsofparsleyfordecorationandsprinklealittlesweetpaprikaontopofthedish.


Tomato Mousse

This recipe was given to me by Countess Draskovich of Gussing.

1 pound (500 grams) tomatoes2 1/2 ounces (70 grams) butter4 spoons Béchamel2 ounces (60 grams) gelatin powder1 cup (250 milliliters) double cream, stiffly whippedjuice of 1 lemonsalt and white pepper1 teaspoon sugar

• Putthetomatoesintoboilingwaterforamomentinordertopeelofftheskins.Cutthetomatoesinhalf.Removetheseedsandthejuice.

• Frythetomatopulpinthebutteruntilitisverysoft.ThenmixintheBéchamelandaddthegelatin,whichhasbeendissolvedinalittleboilingwater.Addthelemonjuice,salt,pepperandsugar.

• Nowpassallthemixturethroughasieveandfoldinthewhippedcream.Pourthemixtureintoawellwettedmouldandleaveitforseveralhoursorpreferablyovernightintherefrigerator.

• Whenrequired,turnitontotheservingdishanddecorateitwithslicesofcucumber,tomatoescutintorosesandbeetrootcutintoshapes.Surrounditwithparsley.

• Thequantitiesgivenherearesufficientfor6people,sothatitcanbeinterchangedwithluncheonanddinnerdishesgiveninthepreviousmenus.Ifyouneeditforabuffetsupper,increasethequantitiesormakeseveral.

noTe: To Make The BéChaMel, Take:

1 1/2 cups (30 grams) milk1 ounce flour1 ounce (30 grams) butter

This will make more than you actually require, but it is difficult to make less.


Beef Beauceronne

This is another of the recipes given to me by my aunt. It is a most unusual and also very delicious dish which would go very well for a buffet supper where a hot dish is required. It would also make another excellent dish in the Winter for a shooting party or lunch. I will not give any quantities as this must depend on the number of people for which the dish is to be made. I rather think that this dish must come from the Pyrenees between france and spain.

• Linealargebakingdishwithrashersofleanbaconandplaceonthemalayeroffairlythinlyslicedonionsandpotatoes,halfashallot,choppedfinely,asmallbayleaf,asmallbasilleaf,saltandpepper.

• Thencoverthevegetableswithalayerofrumpsteaks,cutabout1/2inchthickandfromwhichallthefathasbeentrimmed.Itisbesttocutthesesteaksintopiecesabout3inchesby2inches.Sprinklethislayerofsteakswithalittlesaltandblackpepperandapinchofthyme.Ontopofthisputanotherlayerofonionsandpotatoes,1/2 ashallot,choppedfinely,asmallbayleaf,asmallbasilleaf,pepper,i.e.,.exactlylikethefirstlayer.

• Ontopofthisputanotherlayerofsteaksandanotheronionandpotato.Ontopofthewholedishputafewmorerashersofbacon.

• Allthiscanbepreparedthedaybefore,andwhenrequiredfillthedishwithagood,meatstock(IuseMaggicubes)sothattheliquidjustcoversthetoplayerofbaconrashers.

• Nowsealthedishascompletelyaspossiblewithfoilandcover,andcookitinamoderateovenforabout2hoursatGas5,375ºFahrenheitor190ºCentigrade.Ifitisaverylargedish,youmayrequirealittlelonger.


sicilian fruit salad

• Takealargecantaloupemelonandsliceoffthetop.• Withaspoon,removealltheseedsanddiscard.• Thenwiththespoon,takeoutallthefleshofthemelonandputinamixingbowl.Chopupthe

fleshofthemelonintosmallpieces,aboutthesizeofaquail’segg.• Takeabunchofgrapesandremovethepips.Skinandslice2bananas.Skin,stoneandchopup

oneormorepeaches.Peel,coreanddiceanapple.• Putallthefruittogetherinamixingbowlandmixthoroughly.Add4or5tablespoonsofMarsa-

laandmixagain.• Replaceallthefruitinthehollowmelonandputintherefrigerator.• Serveitwellchilled.

Continental Cake

sufficient quantities for 6 to 8 people.

4 ounces (1/2 cup or 125 grams) unsalted and softened butter1 cup almonds, blanched and very finely ground1 cup milk1 egg, separated1/2 cup plus 1 teaspoon dark rum2 teaspoons coffee essence1/2 cup castor sugar2 packets Boudoir Biscuits (sponge fingers) roughly 46

• Blendtogetherthebutter,1/4cupofmilk,theeggyolk,the2teaspoonofcoffeeessence,1table-spoonofrum,thecupoffinelygroundalmondsandthecastorsugar.Blendtoafinecream.

• Dipthespongefingersintheremaining3/4cupofmilkand1/2cupofrum.Arrangethem,whendipped,inbrick-likeformonaflatservingdish.

• Spoonthecreambetweeneachlayerofspongefingers,usinghalfthecream.Putthecakeintotherefrigeratorfor2or3hours.

• Beattheeggwhiteuntilstiff,andmixinwiththeotherhalfofthealmondcream.Coverthesidesandthetopofthecakewiththecreamandrefrigerateforseveralhoursorovernight.

• Beforeserving,decoratewithwalnutsorcherries,oralternativelyyoucancoverthewholetopofthecakewithwhippedcreamandsprinkleitwithalittlecoffeepowder.


The enD of The DInnerThe end of the dinner sometimes causes complications. There are different customs in

different countries and while in Britain, the ladies leave the room to allow the gentlemen to continue to talk, smoke and drink their port, the Continentals generally consider this to be a barbarous habit and at the end of dinner they all leave the table together.

It is the hostess who gives the signal to leave. She catches the host’s eye at the other end of the table, and both rise together. Quite frequently this does not work very well and leaves the frantic hostess glaring down the table trying to catch her husband’s eye, while he is engaged in some interminable story and refuses to look at her.

There is also the problem of how long the men should stay talking over the port before they join the ladies and this has been the cause of not a few domestic rows when the guests have finally gone.

I do not know how the British custom started that ladies should leave the dining room first. I suspect that it was a Victorian invention when it was considered that ladies were nauseated by the smell of smoke, and if they remained, would become tight on the port. I don’t think that it was the custom in the 18th century, and with the lack of servants, the high cost of port and the prospect that the host and hostess themselves will eventually have to clear the table and do the washing up, the custom is slowly fading even in Britain. There is also the fact that as people live in very much smaller houses, the dining room is also the living room and there is no drawing, or withdrawing, room for the ladies to retire.

Not everyone is as forthright as an elderly eccentric, Major Darby Griffiths, who at the end of dinner used to remove his false teeth, put them in a tumbler of water beside his plate, gargle with his port and say, “Well, that’s that. Now you can all damn well clear out.”

Strangely enough, this was not the signal for the guests to leave the house forthwith, but rather for the ladies to leave the room while he continued to ply the male guests with the cheapest grocer’s port that he could buy. He had his own decanter of the very best vintage wine, but this was considered to be far too good for anybody else.

As he was very old, very rich, with a vast house filled with marvellous things and with no heirs, his invitations to dinner were usually accepted.

A rather distant relative of ours terminated his dinner in a rather more spectacular way; he had had a marvellous life, hunting, fishing, shooting, with a string of racehorses and for 40 years he had kept open house entertaining for all who wished to stay with him or merely come to dine or even for a weekend.

He lived in a great, broken down mansion in Ireland, and now he was old, ill and completely broke beyond all possible hope of redemption.

He was a great favorite with the local people as he hated the Government and above all tax collectors, excise men and anybody whom he suspected of being a ‘government spy’.

For a long time the local tradesmen kept the old man going, giving him credit when they knew that there was absolutely no possibility of ever being paid, but there is a limit to all things, and finally this source too had dried up.

The estate, once of several thousand acres, had been sold bit by bit, and now nothing remained but the weed grown garden and the great, ramshackled house itself. Water poured through the roof, and as one room had become uninhabitable; the old man had simply moved to another.

Now most of it was uninhabitable: there was dry rot and the death watch beetle in the upper storeys, and the Bailiff’s man in the ground floor.

The old butler still remained on and so did the cook. They were a married couple who had been with the old man and his family for more than 50 years and they had nowhere else to go. Remaining on, at least they had a roof of sorts over their heads, and while they had to cook for themselves, they cooked for the old man too. They had not been paid for years, but they had affection and loyalty to the old man apart from knowing no other way of life.

It was a night in Winter and a great gale was blowing in from the West which made


the ruined old house creak and groan in the storm. As was his invariable custom, the old man changed for dinner into his evening clothes and come down into the dining room. Here a couple of candles guttered at one end of the huge table, while the other end was lost in the shadows and darkness. The old man took his place and out of the gloom came Pat, the butler.

“I’ve a good dinner for ye tonight, Sorr.” He said.“You have, Pat?”“Aye, Sorr. Didn’t Sean Mahoney give us a fine trout and one of those black devils

below (he referred to the Bailiff’s men) run over a pheasant in his car coming here tonight. The man asked Eileen (the cook) to do it for his supper, but of course she told him to go to the Devil. I went and had a look at the poor creature in the boot of the car and it looked very unhappy there, so I took it in and gave it to Eileen and we have it for your dinner.”

It was a rare treat and when the meal was over the old man asked Pat to bring him the last bottle of port from the cellar. They had hidden it from the Bailiff and the old man told Pat to bring a glass for himself and Eileen. He then settled down to finish the bottle himself.

The wind howled round the house, and nobody knows whether he finished the bottle or not as about half an hour later, Pat heard a most terrible crash. He ran down the long corridor as fast as his old legs would carry him. The dining room was in total darkness. Pat struck a match, shielding it from the draught with his hands. The darkness was thick with dust, but there, in front of him Pat saw a vast gaping hole. The dining table and the old man with it had crashed through the rotten floor down into the great hall below.

They found the old man. He had broken his neck and was quite dead. Some say that he had a wry smile on his face, but anyway that was the end of him.

aCknoWleDGeMenTsanD DeDICaTIons

To my friends Joan, lisa and antonietta Cuccato, Margherita and Maria serra, who have cooked for

us in different countries and at different times. I also wish to thank all my other friends with

whom we have stayed, who have given me recipes, and where we have wined, dined and laughed so

well over so many years.

My very grateful thanks also to elizabeth har-rigan, without whose encouragement this book would never have been written, and to my hus-band who typed it, without whose help it would

never have got off the stove.


ParT II

The Countess of shannon’s recipes

Contents: Part II

Soups to Warm Winter Days

Fish and Seafood

South African Meat Specialties

Meat Dishes from Abroad

Lazy Day Recipes for One Dish Meals

Vegetable Recipes

Beautiful Salads

Tomato Roses

Breads and Sandwiches

Festive Desserts

Cakes and Party Fare

Cookies for all Occasions

A Variety of Sweets

Chutneys, Jams and Conserves

Household Hints


Visiting at a Masonic old age home

The DreaMs of WInTerWinter is a time of coming home to oneself; a time of curling up with a good book, a

warm quilt and the aroma of simmering homemade soup wafting through the house. It is a time when poetry stirs in the soul and inspires the mind. Charles Darwin

said at the end of his life, that the loss of a taste for poetry and music is loss of happiness. Winter is a time to renew our acquaintance with Wordsworth, Frost and Browning and to get to know the modern poets of our time with their thoughts as new as the morning.

With a fire crackling in the hearth during stormy nights or on cold, crisp days, the deeper hues of our soul reveal themselves. The richly textured passions residing deep within our hearts stretch and stir and come to life. It is a time of crashing waves and large, juicy apples and the birth of extravagant and lofty dreams.

Some will die a stillborn death. But some dreams conceived during winter’s passionate embrace will travel with us into the early spring, when the days grow quiet and clear as a mountain spring and the oak trees purr under the gentle touch of spring showers, their new leaves the vibrant green of a Van Gogh.

Some dreams may even come to fruition during the lazy days of red watermelons and summer sunshine, golden as the rape flowers that paint the rolling hills of Berkshire. Some, on the other hand, may lie fallow, awaiting the fertile conditions in which to flourish.

But like the fragrance of the honeysuckle hedge beneath the kitchen window they linger, and as winter returns, so do they. In the cherished hours of reverie they arise unbidden to beguile and tantalize the mind with their promised possibilities once again.

I invite you to share in the following pages as they are the best soup recipes gleaned from friends and family and ingenuity.

souPs To BrInGWarMTh To WInTer DaYs

Potage Crème d’orge (nanny’s Barley Broth )

Puree di Pois aux Croutons (Pea soup with Croutons)

american Corn Chowder (seasonable at all times)

a Variety of Cream soups


Potage Crème d’orge ornanny’s Barley Broth

The wonderful aroma of simmering soup on a chilly winter's morning warrants a little forethought when grocery shopping. Placed on the stove right after breakfast, it will be ready for lunch.

1 lb. neck of mutton2 quarts cold water1/2 t. pepper1 carrot1 turnip1 leek or onion1/2 cup barley1 t. salt1 T. chopped parsley2 stalks celery

• Cutmuttonupintosmallpieces.• Putintoasaucepanwithwaterandbarleywellwashed.• Letitstandfor1/2hourandthensimmerfor2hours.Keepwellskimmed.• Addvegetables,dicedandsaltandpepper.• Allowtosimmer1/2hour,thenaddparsley.

note: Meat may be left in the broth or else taken out before vegetables are added. for Barley and Tomato soup, add 1 cup grated tomatoes with vegetables.

Preparing for Christmas Dinner


Puree de Pois aux Croutons orPea soup with Croutons

2 cups split peas2 onions1 t. salt4 cups water1 lb. Cooked or uncooked bones1/2 lb salt pork1/2 t. pepper1 T. butter2 T. flourcroutons of bread

• Soakpeasovernight.• Puttheminwater(cold)andallowtoboil.• Washandcutuponions.• Addonions,bones,saltandpepperandsaltporktopeas• Allowtosimmerfor2hours,stirringoccasionally.•. Removebonesandrubtheothercontentsofthesaucepanthroughacoarsewiresieve• Putbutterinasaucepanandstirflourintoit• Addtosoupandboilforafewminutes.• Servewithcroutonsofbread

Croutons of Bread

• Cutstalebreadintoslices1/3-inchthickandremovecrust.• Spreadwithbutter.• Cutslicesinto1/3-inchcubes.• Bakeinovenuntildelicatelybrowned.• Putintosoupjustbeforeservingorserveseparatelywithsoup.

note: Croutons may be dried in deep fat or in just enough butter to keep them from burning.


My Mother’s american Corn Chowder

My mother was named after her ancestor, the Countess almine du Pre and gave me her name. The name “almine” came with the norsemen to normandy and became a name found amongst the ruling class of this area after 900 a.D.

a thick soup

2 slices fat salt pork or bacon1 onion3 cups diced boiled potatoes2 cups boiling water1 cup cooked corn, fresh or canned4 cups boiled milksalt and pepper

• Cuttheporkorbaconintosmallpieces,andfryitout.• Cooktheslicedonionandpotatoesinthis.• Strainthefatoff.• Addboilingwater,cornandhotmilk.• Seasonwithsaltandpepper.,• Bringtotheboil.

soup can be thickened by sprinkling potato flakes in it.

Cream soups

Milk basis:2 T. butter2 cups milk or 1 cup vegetable or meat stock plus 1 cup milk2 T. floursalt and pepper

• Prepare1cupvegetablepulp—anycookedvegetableormixtureofvegetablesmaybeusedwiththesauce.

• Meltbutterandstirinflour,saltandpepper.• Addmilkormilkandstockslowlyandstirwell.• Cookfor10minutes.


Vegetable Puree for Cream soup

ToMaTo Puree1cupslicedtomatoes,1/2onionsliced,mixedherbs,otherseasonings,1t.sugar.Cooktomatoesandseasoningsfor10minutes.Rubthroughasieve.

sPInaCh Puree1cupcookedspinachmincedorrubbedthroughasieve,1T.onionjuice,mixedherbs

CelerY Puree1cupcrushedcelerystalks,1/2cupwater,2cloves.Simmerfor10minutes,thensieve.

asParaGus Puree1cupasparagusrubbedthroughasieve,orchopped,1T.onionjuice.

Green Pea Puree1cupcookedgreenpeas,1cupliquidinwhichpeaswerecooked,1T.onionjuice.Rubpeasthroughasieveormince.

CarroT Puree1cupcarrotpulp,1t.sugar,1t.lemonrind

PoTaTo Puree1cupmashedpotatoes,1cupliquidinwhichthepotatoeswerecooked,1T.onionjuice,1bayleaf,2peppercorns.Simmerseasoningsinliquidfor10minutes.Strain;addpulp.

DrIeD Bean or Pea Puree1cupcookedmincedbeansorpeas,Icupliquidinwhichthesewerecooked,seasonings.

note: Puree can be made in the blender instead of rubbing through a sieve, but it works better with firm vegetable such as peas, carrots and potatoes.

In seattle with his excellency, the abassador from China to the united states.


The fruIT of ManY oCeansI grew up in one of the many little coastal towns that cluster around the big city

of Cape Town in South Africa. Growing up in this hushed town cradled between the mountains and the sea, was like a slow awakening through a warm and wide-eyed spring. At night I could hear the heartbeat of the sea, and each morning the sun rose over the water and its rosy glow bounded off my white walls and onto my bed. In the magic hour before school, I would lie and listen to the “clip-clop” of draught horses’ hooves against the road on their milk delivery route. Sometimes I would dress hurriedly and pedal my bike through the sleepy town just stretching and stirring into life. The air was new down the avenue of oak trees where bird song greeted the morning; past the files of singing servants, walking to work with baskets on their heads.

My school stood at the foot of the mountains, and at times I could see the fisherman on watch signaling to boats where to drop their nets for glistening schools of mackerel. Sometimes a leopard would saunter across the school yard, bounding back into the forest when we would come out for games of Red Rover and Hopscotch. We sang songs like “When It’s Springtime in the Rockies” and “Daar kom die wa”. Lovingly Mrs.. Botha introduced us to Beethoven and Browning, Rembrandt and Rachmaninoff.

We had several servants. There was a cook, who carried dishes such as Lobster Thermidor under a silver dish cover to the dinner table. Jesse, the washerwoman, serviced several homes and carried enormous bundles of laundry on her head (my father once had to punish my brother for riding past Jesse on his bike and pushing her bundle of clean laundry off her head). She smelled of soapsuds and sun-dried sheets, and her pink palms were furrowed with wrinkles. Our housemaid was of the Basuto tribe, and in her spare time she turned everyday objects, such as a discarded bottle, into beaded works of art—her designs strongly symmetrical, her colors bold. She told me stories of the “tokolosh”—the tribal bogeyman, and taught me to knit. Even though she must have weighed close to 300 pounds, I taught her the steps I learned in ballet.

When I turned 14, I fell in love with the boy next door. I’d stand at the wrought iron gate in the garden wall, smelling the heady fragrance of wisteria, rose, and damp earth, and wait for him to come out of his front door, wearing his high school blazer with its badge that showed he was on the rugby team.

Sometimes he’d ask me to a Saturday movie and afterwards he’d walk me home holding my hand. When I turned off my light and snuggled under my blanket, I’d relive every word he’d said until the night sounds of a dog barking, the shrill squeak of a fruit bat, the soft rustling of my lace curtains in the breeze would lull me to sleep; warm, happy, secure.

I no longer travel the oak lined avenues of the Cape, but the wet, green hills of Oregon. My home in Newport, Oregon serves the fruit of the sea that this sleepy fishing town yields; Dungeness crab and ling cod fresh from the ocean’s embrace, jostle each other at dinner.

In Berkshire, in my picturesque cottage with its intimate English garden, I serve dishes like Fillet of Sole Bonne Femme, eaten in summer under the willow tree.

I have spun my memories into a fragile web, but sometimes, something like the sight of grazing sheep catches a thread and brings another world to life again. My heart is in the country, my feet in the city. My loyalties straddle the continents and I find myself in a cultural quandary I can’t escape. The disconcerting feeling of always remembering some place else, can only be stilled by the knowledge that the tapestry of my life is so much richer for the many-hued threads with which it has been woven.

fIsh anD seafooD

Villiers lobster Thermidor

Crab Cakes with Maitre d'hôtel sauce

Crevette a l’Indienne a la Carleton (Carleton Prawn or Crayfish Curry)

Baked stuffed fish with Vegetable stuffing

fillet of sole Bonne femme


Villiers lobster Thermidor

2 live lobsters (about 1 pound each)2 T. onion, chopped1/3 cup sliced mushrooms2 T. butter or margarine2 T. flour1/4 t. salt1/8 t. each pepper and paprika1/2 cup light cream1/2 cup chicken broth1/2 t. Worcestershire sauce1 egg yolk, beaten2 T. sherry3 T. bread crumbs1 T. Parmesan cheese, grated

PrePare loBsTer:

• Placelobstersheadfirstintoboilingsaltedwater.Reduceheatandcover,simmer5minutes.Drain.

• Placelobsteronitsbackandwithasharpknife,cutlengthwiseinhalf.• Removethestomach,whichisjustbehindthehead,andtheintestinalvein,whichrunsfromthe

stomachtothetipofthetail.Crackclaws.• Removemeatcarefullyandreserveshells.Shouldyieldabout2cupmeat.• Cookonionandmushroomsinbutteruntilonionistender.• Stirinflour,salt,pepperandpaprika.Cookoverlowheat,stirringconstantlyuntilmixtureis

bubbly.• Stirincream,chickenbrothandWorcestershiresauce.Heattoboilingstirringcontinuously.Boil

andstirfor1minute.Removefromheat.• Stirhalfthehotmixtureintoeggyolk.Blendeggmixtureintoremaininghotmixture.• Stirinwineandlobstermeat:heatthrough.• Placeshellsinbakingpan,13x9x2inches.Fillshellswithlobstermixture.Mixbreadcrumbs

andcheese;sprinkleovermixture.• Bake5to8minutesat450ºF.


Crab Cakes with Maitre d'hôtel sauce

My father’s position with the south african parliament necessitated our household packing up every 6 months and moving with Parliament between Cape Town and Pretoria, where I was born. The 2 days in the Blue Train through breathtaking scenery is remembered with fond nostalgia. Crab cakes were one of the standard items available in the dining car and are included in my memories as being part of the grand adventure.

1 cup cooked crab1 cup mashed potatoes1 Tablespoon parsley, choppedfat for frying2 Tablespoons butter2 eggspepper and saltbread crumbs

• Mixthecrabandpotatoes,parsleyandbutter.• Seasonwithsaltandpepperandmoistenwithonebeatenegg.• Rollintoballsandflatten• Dipintobreadcrumbs,thenintobeateneggandagaininbreadcrumbs.• Fryinhotfatoroilinapanorelseinhotdeepfatoroil.

Maitre d'hôtel sauce

2 cups drawn butter sauce1 Tablespoon lemon juice1 Tablespoon parsley, chopped2 egg yolksalt and pepper

• Addthelemonjuiceandchoppedparsleytothedrawnbuttersauce.• Allowtocoolslightly,andaddbeatenyolks,saltandpepper.

note: Do not let sauce boil after adding the egg yolks.


Crevette a l’Indienne a la Carleton (Carleton Prawn or Crayfish Curry)

1 pound boiled prawns or crayfish, cut into small pieces2 cups water in which prawns were boiled1 Tablespoon curry powder2 Tablespoons sugarjuice of 1 lemon 1 onionpepper and salt1 Tablespoon fat

• Mixcurrypowdertoathinpastewithalittlestock.• Sliceonionandbrowninfat.• Mixalltheingredients,excepttheprawns,andallowtosimmerfor30minutes.• Puttheprawnsinthesauceandsimmeragainfor30minutes.• Putin1Tablespoonbutter.• Servewithboiledrice.

fillet of sole Bonne femme

1 pound sole or flounder fillets2 Tablespoons butter, melted3 Tablespoons lemon juice1/4 cup onion, minced1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced2 Tablespoons butter2 Tablespoons flour1/4 teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon pepper1 cup milk

• Placefishinungreasedbakingdish.• Combinethemeltedbutter,lemonjuiceandonion;pouroverfish.Turnfishtocoatbothsides

withbuttermixture.• Bakeskinsideupat350ºF.for20tominutesoruntilfishflakeseasilywithfork.• Cookandstirmushroomsin2Tablespoonsbutteruntilmushroomsaretender.• Stirinflour,saltandpepper.Cookoverlowheatuntilmixtureisbubbly.• Stirinmilkandheattoboiling,stirringcontinuously.Boilandstirfor1minute.• Ifdesired,thinsaucewithjuicesfromfish;pouroverfishbeforeserving.


Baked fish with Vegetable stuffing

8 to 10 pound fish (salmon, cod, snapper or lake trout)salt and peppervegetable stuffing (see below)salad oil1/2 cup butter, melted1/2 cup lemon juice

• Washfishquicklyincoldwaterandpatdry.• Rubcavitywithsaltandpepper.• Stuffwithvegetablestuffing.• Closeopeningwithskewersandlacewithstring.• Brushfishwithsaladoilandplaceinopenshallowroastingpan.• Bakeat350ºF.for11/2hoursoruntilfishflakeseasilywithfork.• Whilebaking,basteoccasionallywithmixtureofbutterandlemonjuice.

Vegetable stuffing

2 medium onions, chopped (about 1 cup)1/4 cup butter2 cups dry bread cubes1 cup shredded carrot1 cup cut-up fresh mushrooms1/2 cup snipped parsley1 1/2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 egg1 clove garlic, minced2 teaspoons salt1/4 teaspoon each marjoram and pepper

• Cookandstironioninbutteruntilonionistender.• Lightlymixinremainingingredients.


In PraIse of BounTYI am often the object of mildly derogatory humor when visitors to my home find their

way to the hub of the house – the forty foot kitchen. With eyebrows cocked, they may enquire as to whether or not I intend to feed an army garrison.

Homemade jams and jellies, bottled apricots and brandied cherries line up on shelves like strung jewels glistening in the light of the brass chandelier. Braided ropes of garlic, onions and chili peppers dangle on brass hooks from the fourteen foot ceiling amidst the drying sausages and cheeses.

Shiny 5-gallon cans of honey and golden syrup stand side by side with barrels and fifty pound bags of staples: white rice, quinoa, millet, sugar and several different types of beans. Gallon cans of olive oil stand in the corner next to the hearth.

Next to the fireplace stands a comfortable chair and a collection of cherished cookbooks. This is the place where I greet the morning; a mug of tea in my hand and the aroma of freshly baked bread heavy in the air. It is here where for a few brief moments a day, I can bask in the bounty of my kitchen; the tangible evidence of my own skill and labor in row upon row of jars preserving the season’s produce.

I may never use all delicious jams I have prepared, or reach the bottom of the barrels of hazelnuts, raisins or dried apricots. But it reminds me of the bounty of my mother’s pantry; the peace of mind reserve supplies provide as a shield against the vicissitudes of life.

The following recipes represent culinary gems from South Africa. The dried meat is some of the best in the world and ideal for camping. The Boerwors sausage dries well too, but its particular forte lies in how suitable it is for a slow outdoor barbecue.

souTh afrICan MeaT DIshes

Venison “Biltong” (Dried Venison)

Beef “Biltong”

kimberley’s sosaties(kebabs or skewered Meat)

Malmesbury’s Boerwors(Boer sausage)


Venison “Biltong”

Biltong or dried venison is considered one of south africa’s national dishes. It may be served sliced or grated at the breakfast or luncheon table, and as a sandwich filling. The meat of the springbuck makes a very delicious biltong; the kudu and impala (red buck) are also very suitable.

MeThoDThe meat should be separated into pieces with as little cutting as possible. This is done by following the muscles of the animal.

• Tocurethebiltong,saltthemeatlightly,andplaceitinabasinfor5hours.• Turnthemeat,toallowthesalttopenetrateevenly,andleaveforanother4to5hours.• Hangthesaltedmeatintheshade,awayfromthedustandflies,untilitisdry.• Itisthenreadyforuse.

Beef Biltong

Mostofthebiltongiscutoutofthehindquarterandtheroundismainlyused.Amusclelyingalongthespineandrunningthroughtotheforequartermakesabiltongtermed“garing”biltong.Severalflatbiltongscanalsobecutfromtheshoulder.Themuscleformationisfollowedandthebiltongiscutabout3inchesthickwithalayeroffatononesideifpossible.Whenallarecut,theyaresalted.Saltandpepperwithorwithoutspicesmaybeusedoramixtureof1poundsalt,2ouncessugarand1ouncesaltpeter.Rubthemixtureinwellandthenpackintoanenamelcontainerorthehideitself.Thehideisstrungfrompolesortreesstandingintheshade.Leavethemeatfor3daysandturnitdaily.Thenhanginacool,wellventilated,screenedoffplace.Beforehangingthemeatmayfirstbewipedwithaclothwrungoutinvinegarwater,oritmaybedippedindilutedvinegarwater.

looking at the scenery in Banff, Canada.


kimberley’s sosaties (kebabs or skewered Meat)

My father frequently took me to see the largest man made hole near the town of kimberley in south africa, where many diamonds had been found. happy childhood memories flood my mind of holding my father’s hand at the edge of the Big hole of kimberley and eating sosaties at a local restaurant.

1 leg muttonabout 2 pounds fat pork2 large onions1 Tablespoon curry powder2 Tablespoons sugarsalt and pepper2 teaspoons cornflour (cornstarch)2 to 3 cups vinegar (enough to cover the meat) a few bruised lemon leaves

• Cutthemuttonfromthebone,andintosmallpieces(beefmayalsobeused, butmuttonispreferable)

• Putthemeatintoabasin,andseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.• Thenskewerthepiecesofmuttonalternativelywithpiecesoffatporkonthinwoodenskewers.• Slicetheonions,andcookuntildone,inacupofwater.• Addthecurrypowder,cornstarch,sugarand1/2Tablespoonsaltmixedwiththevinegar,

totheonions.• Cookfor2to30minutes,andleaveuntilcold.Pourthesauceoverthemeat,andmixthoroughly.

Allowtoremaininthissaucefor2to3days.• Grillonagridironoverclearcoals,orfryintheordinaryway.• ServethewellheatedsauceandchutneywiththeSosaties.


Malmesbury’s Boerwors (Boer sausage)

The town of Malmesbury in south africa is renowned for 2 things: its excellent Boer sausage and the gut-tural way in which the inhabitants pronounce their “rr’s”. Boerwors would sound like “boerghworghs.” The pleasant lilt in their voices rolls like the undulating hills of wildflowers that please the eye in all direc-tion around Malmesbury

10 pounds beef2 pounds pork or mutton fat (sheep tail)2 to 3 Tablespoons coriander seed (ground)1/2 grated nutmeg4 to 6 Tablespoons salt2 Tablespoons ground cloves2 Tablespoons allspice2 Tablespoons pepper

• Mincebeef,andcutfatintosmallcubes.• Mixingredientswell.• Coverfor1hour.• Fillthelargesizedsausageskins,andtietheends.• Makeatwistintheskinstodivideeachsausage.

To PrePare sausaGe skIns

• Turnskinsinsideout.• Rinseincoldwaterseveraltimes.• Placeskinsintoabasinwithabout2cupsbranormealiemeal(cornmeal).• Kneadtheskinswithbrantoremovethemucousadheringtotheskins.Ifallthemucoushasnot

yetbeenremoved,repeattheprocessuntiltheskinsarequitecleanorscrapewithbluntsideofknifeorsmallpieceofplank.

• Washagainincoldwater.


My daughter, Monique, and I at the sundance ski

resort in utah.


The JoYs of TraVelInGTraveling is like effective surrealistic art: it alters the traveler’s perspective on life and brings the

senses vibrantly alive. It sweeps away the cobwebs of an emotional rut and broadens the scope of perceived reality.

Southwest Africa, 1900: My grandfather gives an account of an expedition during the Boer War that could have been the time he was required to transport a wagon filled with gold bullion to be hidden from the British. But whatever his mission, the awe the majestic surroundings inspired in him is apparent.

“We journeyed many sweltering miles along the canyons of the Orange River, where 30 foot pythons bask in the sun, given away by the stench of their lairs. We finally reached the Skeleton Coast; the coast of dead ships; the coast where a hundred jackals will attack a huge bull seal and leave only the bones. The coast of death and gems, where tourmalines in reds and greens and amethysts can be found.

“We traveled as far north as the Kuene River, where sheer cliffs shut in part of the muddy, treacherous river. Here hippos, crocodiles, malaria and heat claimed some of the men. Every evening brings fog here, and between the periods of fog and burning east winds come the sandstorms. The sand storms cost us many days of lying in semidarkness under the tents listening to the sand raining down mercilessly. Even the sea birds cry out in pain when they are driven before these storms that pick up the sand at low tide, sending it inland to join the enormous, moving dunes.

“We have lost more men and supplies to quicksand. To avoid this, we stay close to the edge of the sea where the sand is hard, a hazardous journey at high tide when the sea beats against unscalable dunes. Herds of gems buck visit the coast to lick the salt and scratch for water with their hooves, finding nourishment in wild melons. Jackals visit the beach to prey on the sea birds and we often hear them baying at the moon. Wild ostriches find their way here from the interior.

“In this world of sand where only birds and insects are truly at home, whale bones lie whitening under the cauldron of the sun. Yet, somehow this bare land fires the imagination.”

Excerpt from my journal: England, 1988“Today, Monique and I cycled through Cambridge, and we felt more like friends than mother

and daughter. Cycling was not easy for one as rusty as I, my teeth rattling over cobblestone streets: threading through crowded alleys and narrow gates that brought to mind the biblical admonition about rich men and camels!

“We had planned to punt on the River Cam, but decided against it when another hopeful punter fell into the river. The crowds kept a discreet silence, lending aid to the drenched unfortunate as Monique succumbed to raucous peels of laughter.

“Monique, for heaven’s sake! At least try to be polite! We’re in England now!” She laughed even louder, pausing just long enough to point out that she wasn’t English at all and therefore at liberty to laugh!

“We visited a street market and climbed to the top of Great St. Mary’s Cathedral for a splendid view of the architecture of the various colleges, immaculate lawns and rose and lilac filled gardens. In the distance, verdant green fields undulated in all directions.

England, 1989:“I had lunch with my friend Juan Manuel, the magnificent Spanish singer, and his producer at

a Spanish club, and I almost forgot it was in London! An aura of tense anticipation prevailed as the men huddled around the television, discussing excitedly the upcoming football match in Madrid between the Barcelona Drags and the Doblenou Bufals. I munched on whatever it was Juan had ordered: 7 different dishes that ranged from flaccid sea creatures with suction cups, to fierce looking boiled crustaceans and other exotic fare. What an enriching way to spend an hour!”

When Matisse summed up his career, he said that he had worked his whole life to learn to paint like a child again. When we travel, we do much the same: Travel is only successful if we learn to see as a child again: to make fresh discoveries and enjoy new experiences that deepen the wonderful adventure of life.

The following recipes have been gathered during some of my travels.

a seleCTIon of reCIPesGaThereD DurInG MY TraVels

Bobotee(a delicious minced curry from Malaysia)

Willingdon’s Indian Pilau (a very old recipe for chicken)

Crème de Volaille(australian Creamed Chicken)

Chicken a la king


Bobotee (a delicious minced curry from Malaysia)

2 pounds flank or thick rib of mutton or the remains of a cold roast of mutton2 onions, chopped1 large slice white bread1 cup milk2 eggs2 Tablespoons curry powder1/2 teaspoon pepper1 Tablespoon sugarjuice of a lemon or 2 Tablespoons vinegar6 to 8 almonds, chopped2 Tablespoons butter or fata few lemon or bay leaves1/2 Tablespoons salt1/2 cup seeded raisins or 1 cup chopped sour apple

• Mincethemeat.• Soakthebreadinthemilkandsqueezeoutthemilkagainuntilthebreadisdry.• Frytheonioninthebutterorfat.• Mixalltheingredientsexceptoneoftheeggsandbayleaves.• Beatthiseggwithalittleextramilk.• Putthemixtureintoabutteredbakingdishandpourthemilkandeggoverit.• Insertafewfreshlemonorbayleavesintothemeatandbakeinaslowovenfor1/2hourif

cookedmeatisusedorlhourifuncookedmeatisused.• Servewithboiledriceandchutney.

In Yalta, russia.


Willingdon’s Indian Pilau

6 Tablespoons butter or chicken fat4 cardamon seeds4 cloves2 hard boiled eggs2 slices bacon2 to 21/2 cups stock or water2 onions, chopped1/2 inch stick of cinnamon12 peppercorns1 cup rice1 chicken or young fowl (shoulder of mutton or lamb may be used instead of chicken)salt and pepper

• Useaskilletorshallowstewingpanwithtightfittinglid.Meltthebutterorfat.• Addtheonionsandfryuntillightbrown.• Addthestockorwater.• Washtherice,drainandadd.• Addthebaconcutinsmallpieces.• Addthespicesinasmallmuslinbag;saltandpeppertotaste.• Coverandbringtoboilingpoint.• Placethechicken,readytrussed,inthecenter,andallowtosimmeruntiltender.Testfortender-

nessbypiercingthelegmuscle,notthebreast,withafork.• Removespicesandallowthepilautocookalittlelonger,uncovered,ifriceappearsverymoist.• Servewiththericearoundthechickenandgarnishwithslicesofhardboiledeggs.


Crème de Volaille (australian Creamed Chicken)

2 cups cold chicken meat cut into cubes2 cups milk1/4 cup butter or chicken fat1 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon pepper1/4 cup flour

• Meltthebutterorfatinadoubleboilerandaddtheflour.• Stiruntilsmoothaddingthemilkgradually.• Stiruntilthick,coverandcookfor15minutes.• Addthemeat,saltandpepper.• Serveontrianglesorroundsofbutteredtoastorinpattyshells.• Garnishwithatinysprigofparsley.

Chicken a la king

• PreparesameasCrèmedeVolaille(AustralianCreamedChicken).• Whenaddingthechicken,addalso:

1 sweet red pepper 1 sweet green pepper (capsicum) finely chopped and seeds removed 2 cups chopped cleaned mushrooms 1 Tablespoon chopped onion

• Frythesefirstofallin2Tablespoonsmeltedbutterinapanfor15minutes,movingthemcon-stantlywithaforktopreventburning.

• Allowtocookwiththechickeninthemilkmixturefor10minutes.• Serveontoastorinpattyshells,orarrangeinthecenterofmeatplatterringofwhiteorbrown

rice.


laZY DaYsThe first leaves were turning scarlet on the viny maple tree. The day was bathed in a

hushed silence of anticipation: Winter was approaching.The intoxicating smell of wood smoke drifted through my window and in the distance,

a flock of pelicans’ ungainly flight carried them south to sunnier shores. I stared with resentment at the stack of papers on my desk. The day was calling; adventure was afoot. I could feel my will to work begin to drag across the sands of my life like a kite that refuses to fly.

I decided to soak in a bath, sipping a cup of comforting tea and pouring over a quaint little book of Victorian household hints. I avoided facing the duties of my day as long as possible until the book was soaked and I was dry. Reluctantly I dressed myself when the doorbell rang.

An officious-looking man resembling an undertaker, stood on the porch. He solemnly asked if I would take a two-minute survey. I looked at him irritably. Couldn’t the man see I was busy? He stared back smugly. Well, since it would get rid of him in two minutes…

Too late I realized that it was a survey by a local church to determine whether in their estimation I was a suitable candidate for ‘heaven’! Since I failed miserably, the undertaker’s expression changed from self-righteous smugness to open disdain. He offered condescendingly to ‘save’ me, but I refused, fleeing before his accusatory stare by closing the door in his face.

I cannot honestly claim that the rest of the day improved. I felt neither better, nor enriched. I became no wiser, nor did my environment become more organized or improved. It was simply a day in which precious hours sifted through my hands like sand – a thoroughly lazy day!

laZY DaY reCIPes forone DIsh Meals

stellenbosch eggs De luxe

oeufs a la Piemontaise

Vegetable Mould with eggs

Cheese soufflé and Variations

Tomato sauce (suitable with any of the above dishes)


stellenbosch eggs De luxe

8 hard boiled eggs1 cup cooked peas4 Tablespoons butter2 teaspoons flour1 cup milk1/2 cup thin cream4 eggs (beaten)1/2 teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon pepper

• Prepareasauce,usingtheflour,salt,pepper,butter,milkandcream.Coolslightlyand addthe4beateneggs.Beatwell.

• Arrangepeasinalayerinthebottomofthebakingdishwiththeslicedhardboiledeggsontop.An attractive effect may be secured by placing the center slices of the eggs around the sides of the dish.

• Pourthesauceovertheeggsandbakeinacoolovenuntilfirm.• Allowtostandindishforseveralminutesandunmouldontoaplate.• Garnishandservehotwithorwithoutasauce.

The day I unveiled the escarpment in Big Ben Tower, Palace of Westminster, as presented by the royal horological society.


Vegetable Mould with eggs

1 onion, chopped1 green sweet pepper, chopped2 Tablespoons butter1 1/2 sliced tomatoes4 cups cooked, mashed corn or 3 cups cooked ricesalt and pepper to taste6 eggs1/2 cup grated cheese1/4 cup milk or thin creamparsleybutter

• Frytheonionandsweetpepper(withpipsremoved)lightlyinbutter.• Addthecornorriceandtomatoes.• Cookslowlyuntilthecornorthericehasabsorbedallthetomatojuice.• Seasonandaddgratedcheese.• Packintoabutteredringmouldandkeephot.• Scrambletheeggstogetherwithmilkandbutter.• Unmouldtheringandfillthecenterwithscrambledeggs.• Garnishwithparsley.

Cheese soufflé (and Variations)

4 Tablespoons butter or fat4 Tablespoons flour1 cup milk1/2 teaspoon saltfew grains cayenne pepper1 cup strong flavored grated cheese3 eggs

• Meltbutter.Addflourandstiruntilwellblended.• Addmilk,saltandcayennepepper.Cookuntilcreamy,stirringconstantly.• Beatyolksofeggs.Addhotmixturegraduallytoeggyolks,stirringconstantly.• Addcheese.• Beateggwhitesuntilstiffbutnotdry.Foldintomixture.• Pourintobutteredbakingdish.• Bakeinaslowoveninapanofwateruntillightlybrownedforabout45minutes.


Variations of Cheese soufflé

ToMaTo soufflé:

Substitute for milk 1/4 cup of milk and l cup tomato pulp. Add 2 Tablespoons chopped parsley.

Corn soufflé:

Add 1 cup canned corn and 1 Tablespoon sweet green peppers, chopped.

Green Pea soufflé:

Add 1 cup cooked green peas, or any unsweetened vegetable.

fIsh soufflé:

Add l cup fish, 2 Tablespoons chopped onion and 1 Tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

MeaT soufflé:

Substitute cheese by 1 cup minced meat.

Tomato sauce

2 large ripe tomatoes1 onion, sliced1 celery stalk1 bay or lemon leaf1 Tablespoon butter or fat1 Tablespoon flour1 cup water 1 Tablespoon sugar1 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon pepper

• Washandchopthetomatointolargepieces.• Stewgentlywithonion,celery,bayleafandwateruntilsoft.• Pressthroughasievetoeliminatepipsandskins.• Mixflourandbuttertoasmoothpaste.Stirintohottomatojuice.Allowtoboilfor3minutes• Addflavoringsandserve.


a look BaCkWarDsLooking backwards at the winding journey of our life, moments of triumph that beckon

like beacons, stand delineated. If only there could be more of those. How gratifying life would be!

Similarly the humiliation, losses and tears are looked at with a different type of regret: If only we had been more insightful; hadn’t lost a benefit or a loved one, life would be much more beneficial now!

But would it? The journey of our lives climbs ever upwards. With each step of a life well-lived, the vistas grow more magnificent: the view more breath-taking. If we were for an instant to stand on the rocky ledge of triumph where we had felt such exhilaration years ago, we would find that it has lost its charm. As experience deepened and horizons expanded, our criteria for the extraordinary did too.

The “stain of past experience” spoken of by Emerson in his essays, refers to the self-critical way in which we view painful experiences of the past. But the very wisdom we now possess was birthed by the folly of the past. The lofty vantage point from which we look back so censoriously, was achieved not all at once, but step by sometimes painful step.

The occlusions in our vision when looking at the past must be taken into consideration. Why then is there a rosy glow of nostalgia transforming past events? Perhaps it is a contributing factor that retrospectively the outcome of events is known. This predictability and singular outcome gives an appearance of simplicity to the past.

The human heart yearns for the simplicity mind would deny it. The mind complicates, whereas the heart lives in the simplicity of innocence. Power is found in the present, not the past. When choices are made from the dictates of our heart, simplicity returns to the present. There is only one choice: That which makes our heart sing.

The saying goes, “In order to succeed one must try and try again.” In other words there is no success without many seeming failures. It takes 18 years to raise a child into adulthood and self-sufficiency; this never takes place without many failures. How many a parent and child spend a lifetime lamenting the failures of those years because of not being taught that there is no such thing as failure. There are either lessons, or gift, and in the long run those are seen to be the same. When we take a moment to scan our lives and look to see where we can apply this attitude, we will notice a dramatic shift in awareness and sense of freedom such an attitude can bring.

VeGeTaBle reCIPes

Pommes de terre a l’Irlandaise (Irish stuffed Potatoes)

oignons farcis (Molly’s stuffed onions)

Castle Martyr’s spinach soufflé


Pommes de terre a l’Irlandaise(Irish stuffed Potatoes)

6 medium potatoes2 Tablespoons butter3 Tablespoons hot milksalt and pepper1 cup grated cheese 1 egg

• Washpotatoesandscrubwell.Bakeinovenuntilsoft.• Removeandcutaslicelengthwisefromeach..Scoopoutinside.• Mashandaddbutter,salt,pepperandmilk.• Beateggandaddtogetherwithcheese.• Refillskins,heapingthemixturelightlyinthecenter.Sprinklealittlecheeseontop.• Browninaveryhotovenfor10minutes.

note: The cheese and egg may be omitted if plain stuffed potatoes are desired.

oignons farcis (Molly’s stuffed onions)

6 onions1 cup of minced meatbuttered bread crumbs1/2 cup white sauce1/3 cup chopped celery

• Parboilonionsandscoopoutinside.• Choppulpandaddtoremainingingredients.• Stuffonionwithmixture.Sprinklewithbreadcrumbs.• Placeingreasedbakingdishandbakeinmoderateoventillonionsaretender.

note: Cucumber, eggplant, sweet peppers and tomatoes may substitute the onions. remove all the pips of the peppers. Do not parboil tomatoes.


Castle Martyr’s spinach soufflé

Castle Martyr, the old family home in Country Cork, Ireland, has contributed many favorites to our menus. Taken over by the Carmelite Monks in Victorian times, The earls of shannon no longer walk its halls, but its memory lingers on of grander and more formal times.

2 cups cooked chopped spinach1/2 cup white sauce3 eggs (separated)1/2 cup grated cheese

• Beateggyolks• Mixtheingredients.• Foldinstifflybeateneggwhites.• Placeingreasedbakingdishandbakeinmoderateovenfor25to30minutes.

notes: a soufflé must be served immediately as it falls, which however, does not detract from the flavour. any vegetable may substitute the spinach.

With hrh the Prince Cesare d'altavilla at Castello de roppolo.


a ThInG of BeauTYMy enchantment with all things beautiful started as a child: Instead of the usual first

words a baby utters, I graduated from “Mama” and “Dadda” to “Pragtig” which means “beautiful” in my native tongue and includes two guttural sounds most adults can’t master. The inspiration for this verbal accomplishment was the full moon in the black sky. Since then I’ve found beauty everywhere to lighten the burden of life and fill my heart with joy.

I echo the words of the great naturalist, John Burroughs, who wrote at the end of his life:“I am in love with this world…I have tilled its soil, I have gathered its harvest, I have

waited upon its seasons and always have I reaped what I have sown. While I gathered its bread and meat for my body, I did not neglect to gather its bread and meat for my soul. I have felt the sting of its frost, the oppression of its heat, the fury of its winds, and always have beauty and joy waited upon my goings and comings.”

When I’m frightened, ill or sad, I think of moments of great beauty I’ve experienced: One afternoon, as I cycled down a lane through a field of purple heather in the countryside of Holland, I came upon a large dike (a dirt wall used to keep water at bay). Climbing to the top, I saw on the other side, against the background of a dark gray lake, thousands of white swans. I sat enchanted, listening to the soft voices of the wind in the heather and watching the graceful movements of the swans against the iridescent gray of the water.

My ancestors believed the important ends of life include the creation and enjoyment of beauty, both natural and man made: that it increases comprehension and provides a more assured sense of significance. They went to great lengths to find and preserve that.

My great grandparents dug a large hole in their backyard to preserve their grand pianos, wrapped in blankets, from the British during the Boer War.

Grandma Hilda lived in poverty with her children after the death of her husband. But hours of hard labour and delicate stitchery turned a scrap of cloth into an exquisite little girl’s dress. Wildflowers were turned into artistic floral arrangements to grace her humble home. The day the goat ate her handmade lace curtains through the window, Grandma Hilda sobbed, knowing that she couldn’t afford to replace them.

In the white washed house with its gleaming yellow wood floors, thatched roof and exquisite Cape Dutch gable among the vineyards that gently sloped down to the banks of the river, my paternal Grandfather grew up among art and music and books. It was this environment that fostered the imagination and inspired his brother to compose South Africa’s national anthem. Grandfather was asked to perform on the organ for King George’s visit to South Africa.

Picasso said that “Art cleanses the soul from the dust of everyday life.” My mother believed, like Schopenhauer, that not only philosophy, but art and beauty combine to solve the mystery of life. As a child she taught me that God is the Author of beauty, as He is of truth and goodness.

Beauty is part of my personal religion: With happiness in my heart at the sight of a red winged blackbird shaking the raindrops from a branch, there is no room for hate. There is no time to despair, when I search out the beauty of the arching sky and the moving clouds and the constellations on high.

Like Walter Rauschenbusch, I want say: “Grant us, we pray thee, a heart wide open to all this joy and beauty, and save our souls from being so steeped in care or so darkened by passion that we pass heedless and unseeing when even the thorn bush by the wayside is aflame with the Glory of God.”

BeauTIful salaDs(especially suitable for a Cold Buffet)

My Grandmother’s Potato salad (salade de Pommes de Terre)

Boiled Dressing

The Baroness du Plessis’ Chicken salad (salade de Volaille)

German Dressing

avocado and Vegetable salad

Mayonnaise Dressing(as passed down from my ancestor, the Countess du Pre)

Tongue in aspic


My Grandmother’s Potato salad(salade de Pommes de Terre)

6 medium potatoes1 Tablespoon chopped onion1 Tablespoon chopped walnutsboiled dressing (see recipe below)1 Tablespoon chopped parsley3 hard boiled eggs

• Cookpotatoesintheirjackets.Whencold,peelandcutincubes.• Putalayerofpotatoesintoaglassdishaddingalittleoftheparsley,walnuts,onionandchopped

hardboiledeggsontop.• Coverwithdressing.• Repeatuntilalltheingredientsareused.

note: reserve an egg yolk to decorate the top. Press yolk through a wire sieve and sprinkle over salad.

Boiled Dressing

1/4 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon mustard1 Tablespoon sugarfew grains of cayenne pepperl teaspoon flouryolks of 2 eggs11/2 Tablespoon butterl cups milk 1/4 cup vinegar

• Mixdryingredientsuntilwellblended.• Addyolksofeggs,slightlybeatenbutterandmilk.• Cookoverboilingwateruntilmixturethickens.• Addvinegarslowly,stirringallthetime.• Strainthroughawiresieve,andbottlewhilehot.

note: This dressing will keep refrigerated in a closed bottle for months.


The Baroness du Plessis’ Chicken saladsalade de Volaille

1 cup cold chicken, cut in 1/2 inch cubes1 cup celery, cut in small piecesGerman dressing2 or 3 hard boiled eggslettuce1/2 cup cooked green peas

• Chillceleryincoldwater.Drainanddryinacleantowel.• Mixchicken,celery,choppedeggsandpeas.Moistenwithdressing.• Serveonlettuceandgarnishwithceleryhearts.

note: 1 Tablespoon chopped parsley may be used in place of celery.

German Dressing

1/2 cup thick cream3 Tablespoons vinegar1/4 teaspoon salt few grains of pepper 1 Tablespoon sugar

• Whipthecream.Ascreamthickens,addsaltandpepper,sugarandvinegarveryslowly.• Beatuntilthemixtureisthick.

note: sour cream may be used.

In the charming little town of Bray in

england.


avocado and Vegetable salad

1 cup cold, boiled potatoes1/2 grated onion, small1 Tablespoon finely chopped parsley1/2 teaspoon salt1/4 teaspoon pepper1 small onion Mayonnaise dressing5 Tablespoons olive oil3 Tablespoons vinegar3 tomatoes2 avocado pears

• Cutpotatoesincubesandmixwithgratedonion,andparsley.• Addsalt,pepperandoilandmixwell.Addvinegar.• Allowtostandinacoolplacefor3hours.• Removeskinsfromtomatoes.Cuttomatoesinquarterslengthwise.(Onoutsideofeachquarter,

makeanincisionwithasharpknifeandinsertastripofuncookedonion).• Removepeelsfromavocadopears,andcutintopieces1inchby2inches.• Arrangepotatomixtureonabedoflettuce.Surroundwithtomatoandavocadopieces,alternately.• ServewithMayonnaiseDressing

Mayonnaise Dressing

1 teaspoon mustard1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugarfew grains of cayenne pepperyolks of 2 eggs2 Tablespoons lemon juice2 Tablespoons vinegar1 1/2 cup olive oil

• Mixdryingredients.Addeggyolksandmixwell.• Add1Tablespoonlemonjuiceand1Tablespoonvinegarandmixwell.• Addoilgraduallyatfirst,andbeatingwellaftereachaddition.Continueaddingoiluntilitisallused.• Ifdesired,therestoftheacidcannowbeaddedtothindownmixture.

note: The secret of success in mixing this dressing is to have the ingredients cool, but not chilled, to beat continuously, and to add the oil very slowly in the beginning.


Tongue in aspic

1 Tablespoon sugar3 1/2 cups cold water1/2 cup sherry2 Tablespoons white vinegar1/4 cup lemon juice1 carrot, turnip and onion1/2 teaspoon salt1 sprig parsleyrind of 1 lemon2 1/2 Tablespoons gelatinwhites and shell of 2 eggspeppercornstongue

• Boiltongueuntiltender.Skinandallowtocool.• Soakgelatinin1/2 cupofthewater.Boilrestofwater,vegetablesandseasoning.Clarifywithwhites

ofeggsandshells.• Letboilfor5minutes.• Removeandaddgelatin.Coolfor5minutesandstrain.• Puttongueinmouldandpourjellymixtureoverit.Whenset,unmouldanddecorate.

note: an easy method of unmoulding jellies is to put the mould into hot water for a few seconds, and then turn it out onto a wet dish.

In Brighton during the Brighton run with h.r.h. Prince Michael of kent.


The roseAll sages have whispered their message, that beneath the overlay of tragedy, a reality

exists that is inherently true and good and pure. The rose has lingered throughout the ages of history like a half-forgotten dream – a symbol of the perfection underlying appearances.

A token of affection; a herald of spring, the rose is the emblem of love that having endured all, rises to triumph above all. The rose in its full-blown glory of summer, falls in a fragrant scattering of petals upon the earth. Only the bare and gaunt branches will remain, like hands making a supplication for alms from the merciless winter sky.

Love too can be pared to the bone, scattered before the winds of time like the petals of the rose. But it is as perennial as the grass rising out of the ashes of a burnt field.

Life’s disillusionments are admittedly painful. But they are simply the breaking away of the man-made reality of engendered belief systems, yielding to the pristine perfection that awaits behind the appearances. The rose symbolizes the promise that the birth pains of spiritual evolution are not in vain; that like a rose unfurling in exquisite beauty, we too can emerge from the hardships of life with the grace of perfection.

ToMaTo roses

Tomato and egg salad(salade aux oeufs et Tomatoes)

favorite Boiled Dressing

Chicken stuffed Tomatoeswith Boiled Dressing(salade de Volaille et Tomates)

In seattle, Washington


salade aux oeufs et Tomatoes (Tomato and egg salad)

3 firm, medium sized tomatoes3 hard boiled eggslettucemayonnaise or boiled dressing

• Removeskinsfromtomatoes.• Cuteggsthroughthecenterlengthwise,andremoveyolks.• Mixyolkswithdressingandrefillwhites.• Cutcenteroftomatoouttomakespacelargeenoughtoholdthestuffedeggs.• Seasontomatowithsaltandpepper.

My favorite Boiled Dressing

1 egg1/2 Tablespoon sugar1/4 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon mustard1/4 cup vinegar or lemon juice2 Tablespoons top milk or cream

• Beateggindoubleboiler.• Addseasoningsandvinegar,mixwellandcookboilingwateruntilthickened.Beatoccasionally.• Addmilkorcream.


Chicken stuffed Tomatoes with Boiled Dressingsalade de Volaille et Tomates

6 large tomatoes2 cups minced cold, cooked chicken 3 mashed hard boiled eggs2 teaspoons chopped parsley1 teaspoon grated onionlettuceboiled dressing (see previous recipe under Beautiful Salads)

• Washtomatoes,andhollowoutbycuttingawaythestalkend,andscoopingoutthepulpwithaspoon.

• Sprinkletomatoeswithsaltandpepper.• Mixthechicken,eggs,parsley,andonion.Addenoughofthedressingtobindtheingredients.• Scooproundballsofchickensaladintothetomatoshellswithanicecreamscoop.• Decorateeachwithasmallsprigofparsley.Serveonabedoflettuce.

Pimm's Cottage's rose garden.


PerPlexInG DIfferenCesIn the movie “My Fair Lady” Professor Higgins asks, “Why can’t a woman be more

like a man?”There are times when communication breaks down between males in my life and me,

and I find myself in opposition to a logic more formidable than that of Einstein. I share the consternation felt by Professor Higgins over the differences between the sexes.

A predominantly male characteristic seems to be the telling of tall stories. None of the females of my acquaintance have the same flair for the exaggerated or the absurd. Especially when it comes to hunting and fishing stories.

One fellow I know claims he was so young when he shot his first deer, he went hunting on his bicycle, his gun slung across this back. It was the first day of hunting season and many of the hunters were making camp as he rode up the hill behind town.

He cycled to the top of the hill and was just getting off his bike when a deer peered inquisitively from behind a tree trunk. They stared at each other before he remembered to take the gun off his back. But just then the deer disappeared behind a tree. He waited patiently and when the deer decided to take another look at the boy and the bike, he shot him.

He wondered why everyone thought it was such a big accomplishment to shoot a deer. It seemed easy enough. He couldn’t find the wound where the bullet had struck, but struggling under the weight of the deer he was in no mood to give it a second thought. With great difficulty he heaved the animal onto his back and tied the front legs over his shoulders onto the handlebars.

But halfway down the hill the deer, apparently only stunned by the bullet that had hit his horn, came to and started kicking wildly, the bike careening from side to side.

“If only I had thought to tie his hind legs down too,” my friend said sadly. Just in front of a camp of astonished hunters the animal managed to free itself and was gone.

I am prepared to concede that men are generally more mechanically minded. Perhaps the experience gained as little boys by taking every workable appliance apart and rendering it unworkable gives them an unfair advantage. But the air of superiority that accompanies this knowledge I find insufferable.

If you complain to a mechanic that something is rattling in your car, he informs you smugly that he knows just what the problem is. When you pick up your car after leaving it in his capable hands for many days, there is no sign of the rattle as you test it around his parking lot. But like the child’s cough that disappears when you take him to the doctor, the rattle returns as soon as you leave.

Another area of controversy arises over the culinary art of making sandwiches. Women labour with care to produce exquisitely delicate finger sandwiches only to have the men stare at them balefully. Within a matter of a few bites, they are still staring balefully but now at the empty plate. The following recipes do equally well at the tea table or in a fisherman’s lunch box.

BreaDs anD sanDWIChesThaT Please eVerYone

Banana loaf

soft Gingerbread

Date Bread

Doughnuts

american Popovers

sandwich fillings


Banana loaf

1/2 cup shortening1 cup brown sugar2 cups flour1 egg1 cup mashed banana (3 or 4 bananas)1/2 teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda1/4 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon vinegar

• Creambutterandsugarwell.Addbeatenegg.• Siftdryingredientsandaddtomixturewithbananasandvinegar.• Addalittlemilkifmixtureappearstoostiff.• Putintolined,greased,loafpanandbakefor11/2hours.

soft Gingerbread

1 egg1/2 cup yellow sugar1/2 cup sour milk1/2 cup honey or treacle1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda2 teaspoons ground ginger1 teaspoon mixed spices2 Tablespoons lard or butter1 1/2 cup flour

• Siftdryingredientstogether.• Beateggandsugartogetheruntillight.Addsourmilk,honeyandmeltedbutter.• Siftdryingredientsintothismixture.Beatuntilsmooth.Pourintogreasedbakingtin.• Bake25minutesinamoderateoven.


Date Bread

1 pound dates, chopped2 cups boiling water2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda3 cups flour2 Tablespoons butter2 eggs 1 cup sugar

• Pourboilingwateroverdatesandbicarbonateofsoda.Allowtocool.• Creambutterandsugar.• Addeggsonebyone.• Addsiftedflouranddatemixture.Pourintogreasedbreadtinandbakeinamoderateoven

(350ºF.)for11/2hours.

note: Wrap tin in 2 layers of paper before putting in the oven to prevent it from burning.

Doughnuts

4 1/2 cups flour1 cup sugar1 teaspoon baking powder3 eggsfat for deep fat frying1/2 teaspoon vanilla1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda1 cup milk (sour)2 Tablespoons melted butter1/2 teaspoon salt

• Siftdryingredientstogether.Makeawellinthecenterofdryingredients.• Mixbeateneggs,vanilla,sugar,butterandmilk,addflour,andgraduallyworkintoadough,stiff

enoughtohandle.Rollonaflouredboarduntil1/2inchthick.• Cutwitharoundbiscuitcutter.Thecentermaybecutoutwithaverysmallcutter,ifdesired,to

makearingdoughnut.• Cooktoagoldenbrownindeephotfat.Drainoncrumpledpaper.• Rollinsugar.


american Popovers

1 1/4 cup flour1/4 teaspoon salt2 eggs1 teaspoon sugar1 cup milk

• Mixflour,saltandsugargraduallyaddmilkandwellbeateneggs.Beatthoroughly.• Pourintowellgreased,pipinghot,shallowcakemouldormuffinpans,abouthalffull.• Bakeinahotoven(450ºF.),for20minutes.Lowerto350ºF.andbake15minuteslonger.

sandwich fillings

DrIeD fruIT:1/4 cup dried figs1/4 cup seeded raisins2 Tablespoons honey1/2 teaspoon salt1/2 cup peanut butter2 Tablespoons lemon juiceChop fruit and mix with other ingredients.

PeanuT BuTTer anD Banana (or aPPle):1/2 cup peanut butter1/2 cup banana sliced1 Tablespoon lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon saltMix and spread.

CreaM Cheese anD ToMaTo:1/2 cup cream cheese2 tomatoesparsleysalt and pepperSpread bread with cream cheese. Put slices of tomato on top.

CaBBaGe anD ToMaTo: 1/2 cup grated cabbage and salad dressingtomato slicesMix cabbage with salad dressing. Put slices of tomato on bread.

Green BuTTer:Chopped parsley or watercress and butter.


aVoCaDo-Pear:Avocado pearLemon juiceSalt and pepper

eGG:Hard boiled eggParsleyLettuceSalad dressing

fruIT BuTTer:Wash sour apples or other fruit. Cut and cover with water. Simmer until tender: rub through a sieve. Add 1/4

cup sugar for every cup of pulp, and 2 cloves. Boil slowly until thick. Bottle and seal.

CreaM Cheese anD Banana:Cream cheese and mashed banana and a dash of lemon juice.

sarDInes anD eGG Yolk:Sardines, salt and pepper, lemon juice and hard boiled yolk of egg. Mash sardines and yolk of egg. Add rest of

ingredients and mix. Moisten with little butter.

ChICken anD haM:Add mixture of minced chicken and ham to creamed butter. Add chopped parsley.

ChICken MaYonnaIse anD ToMaTo:Moisten minced chicken with mayonnaise. Spread on bread with tomato slices, and chopped parsley.

Visiting with the lady swansea.


a lIGhTness of hearTWhen my father and I traveled abroad, I noticed with what enthusiasm he studied

passersby in the airport. Every now and then he would saunter up to someone to borrow a newspaper and start chatting happily. The man seated next to him in the airplane was soon treated like a long lost friend.

Finally, I could stand it no longer. I reached over and tugged at his sleeve. “What on earth do you find interesting about the fellow next to you?”

He stared at me in amazement for a minute and then replied, “It is important to study personality in others.”

“If we can identify a harmful trait in someone else, we can more easily eliminate a similar trait from our own personality,” he said. “When we love good qualities, we can more easily produce them in ourselves. Probably the greatest power in the world, either negative or positive, is the power of example.”

For the next few days I thought quite a bit about my father’s enviable ability to turn contact with another personality into an effective learning experience. I acknowledge freely there have been some very important personalities in my life who have influenced me beneficially.

My aunt Mathilda was one of those who have helped shape my life with their love of truth and life. She too, like my father, greeted strangers on the bus. When I asked her why she did this, she said, “Remember always that the few words you say to someone may be the only kind words they hear all day.”

Once, in church, when her grandson asked her why some people lit candles, she explained they lit them in remembrance of loved ones. “Will many people light candles for you when you die?” He asked. “No dear, I prefer to light my candles along the way,” she replied.

On occasion she would call and say “Invite your friends and let’s make some ice cream. The flowers are growing, the birds are singing, what a perfectly good reason for having a party!”

Long after her death, her radiant personality and spiritual beauty still inspired her loved ones. All of life was a celebration to her, and when she died, those who knew her felt not so much the sadness of having lost her as gratitude for having known her.

It is one of the most startling and thought provoking paradoxes of our day of wonders and scientific enlightenment that discouragement still abounds. The one supreme gift the inhabitants of our world need is the gift of light. Perhaps that is why we cherish the memory of those inspiring personalities who chose to “light their candles along the way.”

DesserTs ThaT ProVIDe a PerfeCTlYGooD reason for haVInG a ParTY

aunt Mathilda’s Vanilla Custard Ice Cream

Chocolate sauce

Pineapple Bavarian Cream

Marshmallow sauce

Vanilla soufflé and Variations

lemon sauce

My Mother’s Plum Pudding

Brandy sauce


aunt Mathilda’s Vanilla Custard Ice Cream

l cup sugar2 Tablespoons cornstarch1 cup milk2 egg yolks2 egg whites2 teaspoons vanilla essencepinch of salt

• Mixsugar,saltandcornstarch.Addscaldedmilkandmixwell.• Cookfor20minutes.• Combinewithwellbeateneggyolks.Cookfor5minutes,stirringwell.• Pourintofreezingtrayandfreezepartially.• Nowaddvanillaandwhipuntilfrothy,thenfoldinthestifflybeatenwhites.• Returntofreezingtrayandfinishfreezing.

Chocolate sauce

1/4 cup cocoa1/2 cup sugarpinch of salt1 cup boiling water

• Mixalltheingredientsandbringtotheboil.(Mymotherlikestoaddateaspoon ofvinegarorbrandy.)

left: opening shannon Court right: Inspecting shannon Court.


Pineapple Bavarian Cream

2 Tablespoons gelatin1/2 cup cold water2 cups canned or cooked pineapple or any other fruit, chopped or grated1 cup sugar for fresh cooked pineapple or 1/2 cup sugar for canned pineapple1 Tablespoon lemon juice1/2 pint cream, for whipping

• Soakgelatinincoldwater.• Heatpineapple,addsugar,lemonjuice,soakedgelatin,andstiruntilthegelatinhasdissolved.• Chilland,whenbeginningtoset,foldinwhippedcream.• Placeinawetorbutteredpuddingmouldandchill.• Whenset,unmouldandgarnishwithwhippedcreamandslicedpineappleorcherries.

Marshmallow sauce

1/2 cup sugar1/4 cup water8 marshmallowswhite of 1 egg

• Boilsugarandwatertothinsyrup.• Cutmarshmallowsinpiecesandaddtosyrup.Beateggwhitetillstiffbutnotdry.

Poursyrupontoeggwhite,beatingallthetime.


Vanilla soufflé and Variations

1 cup scalded milk2 Tablespoons butter3 eggs4 Tablespoons flour1/2 cups sugar1/2 teaspoon vanilla

• Makeasaucewiththemilk,flour,butterandsugar.Addbeateneggyolksandvanilla.• Foldineggwhitesbeatenstiff.• Pourintoagreasedbakingdishsetinapanofhotwater,bakeinamoderateoven(375ºF.)• Servewithlemonsauce.

VarIaTIons:Add to vanilla soufflé, 2 ounces grated chocolate.Replace the milk in vanilla soufflé with coffee and omit vanilla.

for leMon soufflé use:5 eggs3 Tablespoons sugargrated rind 1/2 lemon1/4 teaspoons salt3 Tablespoons lemon juice

• Beateggyolkswell.Addlemonjuiceandrind.• Addsugarandbeatthoroughly.• Beateggwhitesuntilstiff,andaddsalt.• Foldthefirstmixtureintothebeateneggwhitesandbakelikevanillasoufflé.

lemon sauce

2 Tablespoons butter1 cup sugar1 egg1/2 cup lemon juice

• Meltbutteroverboilingwater.Stirinsugar.• Beateggslightly.Addtobutterandsugar.• Addlemonjuicegradually,stirringconstantly,untilmixturebeginstothicken.


My Mother’s Plum Pudding

2 cups flour1 cup bread crumbs6 ounces butter1 cup sugar3 eggs4 Tablespoon golden syrup2 Tablespoons marmalade or jamgrated rind of 1 orange2 ounces chopped glace cherries2 Tablespoons brandy1/2 teaspoon nutmeg1/2 teaspoon mixed spice1/2 teaspoon ground ginger1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda, dissolved in 2 Tablespoons orange juice1/4 cup chopped almonds2 ounces shredded mixed peel1/8 teaspoon salt

• Creambutterandsugar.• Beateggsthoroughly,addthebrandy,syrupandrind,thengraduallyaddtothesugarandbutter

mixture,alternatelywiththeflour,mixedwithspices,andthebreadcrumbs.• Addthesodadissolvedintheorangejuice.• Addthepreparedfruitandmixwell.• Pourintoabutteredtin(only2/3full)andsteamfor3hours.Servewithbrandysauce.

BranDY sauCe

1/4 cup butter1 cup castor sugar2 Tablespoons brandy2 eggs1/2 cups cream or milk

• Creambutter.Addsugargradually.• Addbrandyveryslowly.• Addwellbeatenyolksandmilkorcream• Cookoverhotwateruntilitthickensasacustard.Foldinthebeatenwhitesofeggs.


JoY To The WorlDIt happened recently at a Christmas party when a white haired judge of my

acquaintance asked me to dance. I tried to make polite conversation as he led me onto the dance floor. “Everyone seems to be having a good time,” I said. But he payed no attention to my chit chat.

But then the band started the old Beatles’ song, “Rock and Roll Music,” and he lost all interest in conversation. Right before my eyes His Honor changed into John Travolta: The blue eyes under the bushy brows widened with an inner ecstasy that compelled him into a primordial rhythm.

I was swept along like a cork in a whirlpool, my feet more airborne than not, never knowing from one dizzy turn to the next where I was. What dance we were doing, I had no idea. But I knew for sure it wasn’t anything my limited experience had prepared me for! I skipped and I whirled and I twisted and turned and in some miraculous way I remained on my feet!

Above the large arrangements of bright red poinsettias, the band progressed to “Twist and Shout,” and I knew by his change of pace that he was prepared to heed the call! We twisted and rocked and disco'd and tangoed. On the final curve I lost my shoes, one flying south, the other one north. The music ended and with a masterful display of strength he lifted me triumphantly into the air, breathless and shoeless, but right side up and in one piece!

I stumbled dizzily back to my seat, every nerve tingling, my face flushed with exuberance! As I waited for my heartbeats to slow down, I remembered the words of Sir Walter Scott: “One hour of life, crowded to the full with glorious action, and filled with noble risks, is worth whole years of those mean observances of paltry decorum in which men steal through existence, like sluggish waters through a marsh.”

I looked at the other dancers moving across the floor like “sluggish waters through a marsh,: and knew that my dancing partner had given me a new perspective: Parties are for having rip roaring, pull out the stops, all out fun!

He taught me too that joy can be contagious. It had bolstered my spirits and for a few minutes I had felt totally triumphant over the incapacities of the body, and the self imposed limitations of the mind. Henry Thoreau said, “It is something to be able to paint a particular picture or carve a statue and make a few objects beautiful; but it is far more glorious to carve and paint the very atmosphere and medium through which we look, to affect the quality of the day. That is the highest of art.”

Cakes anD ParTY fare

Villiers Christmas Cake

angel or silver sponge Cake

Butter Icing

Wonderful lemon Pie

short Pie Crust

rhubarb Punch

Mixed fruit Punch (25 servings)


Villiers Christmas Cake

1 pound flour1 pound butter1 pound sugar1 pound raisins1 pound currants1 pound sultanas1/2 teaspoon baking powder10 eggs1/4 pound chopped nuts1/2 pound cherries3 Tablespoons marmalade1 wineglass brandypinch salt

• Wash,stoneanddrythefruit.• Beatthebutterandsugartoacream.• Sprinklealittleoftheweighedflouroverthefruit.• Addtheeggs2atatime,alternatelywiththesiftedflour.• Addthefruitandmarmalade.• Lastlyaddthesalt,bakingpowderandthebrandy.• Putintoawelllinedandgreasedbakingtin.• Bakeinaslowoven(250ºF.)for6hours.• Leavetocoolthenturnoutoftin.


angel or silver sponge Cake

1 1/2 cups egg whites 1 cup flour1 1/2 cups sugar1 teaspoon cream of tartar1/4 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon vanilla1/2 teaspoon lemon essence

• Putcreamoftartarineggwhiteandbeatuntilstiffbutnotdry.Theeggwhiteshouldformasoftpeakifalittleislifted.

• Lightlysiftinthesugar,aspoonfullatatime,thenaddvanillaandlemonessence.• Foldinflourpreviouslysiftedwithsalt.• Pourintodry,ungreasedtubecaketin.• Bakeinaslowoven(300ºF.)for11/4hours.Reversecaketinontoacakecoolerandallowtostand

untilcold.• Loosencarefullywithaknifeandshakegentlyontocooler.

Butter Icing

2 cups icing sugar4 Tablespoons melted butter1 teaspoon vanillapinch saltmilk

• Mixallingredients.• Addenoughmilktomakeitspreadable.


Wonderful lemon Pie

1 cup sugar1/4 cup cornstarchsalt1 1/2 cups boiling water2 egg yolksa cup lemon juice1 Tablespoon grated rind1 Tablespoon butter

• Mixdryingredients,addwaterandcook.• Beateggyolksandaddthehotmixtureslowly.Cookthemixtureoverslowheatuntilitthickens.• Removefromrangeandaddlemonjuiceandbutter.• Pourintoabakedcrust.

short Pie Crust

1 1/2 cups flour1/4 teaspoon salt6 Tablespoons fat or butter, or bothcold water

• Siftflourandsalt.• Cutinfatwithtwoknivesandthenmixwithtipsoffingers,untilmixtureistheconsistencyof

coarsecornmeal.• Addwatergradually,tossingthemoistenedlumpsofdoughasidesothatthewatermayreach

thedrymaterial.• Pressthelumpsofdoughtogetherwithafewfirmstrokesoftheforkorspoon.• Placeonalightlyflouredboardandshapealittlewiththehandstoformaroundball.• Rolloutlightlytodesiredthickness.


rhubarb Punch

1 1/2 pounds rhubarb1 quart water1 1/2 cups sugar1/2 cup orange juice4 Tablespoons lemon juicecrushed icecharged water or ginger alesalt

• Cutrhubarbintosmallpieces.Addwaterandcookuntilsoft.• Rubthroughsieve,addsugar,stiruntilsugarisdissolved.• Bringtoboiling;addfruitjuicesandsalt.• Bottleorchill,andservewithcrushedice,oranequalamountofchargedwaterorgingerale.

Mixed fruit Punch

4 cups dark grape juice2 cups white grape juicejuice of 12 lemonsjuice of 12 orangessugar or syrup to taste4 pints ginger ale1 pint soda water

• Mixfruitjuicesandsugarorsyrup.• Addgingeraleandsodawater,justbeforeserving.• Servewithcrushedice.

on the ferry, crossing the english Channel to france.


The searCh for eleGanCeThe search for elegance is an integral part of the human soul and when denied finds

expression in deviant ways. Elegance, though endlessly multi-faceted is not based on arbitrary standards. It’s based on the creations of nature and when our connection with nature becomes severed; our innate understanding of elegant expression does also.

Throughout the ages, whenever a society bogs down under social strictures and conditioning, divorcing itself from natural life, excesses ensue. In “polite” Victorian society, the burden of the supposed elegant life became so consuming that its excesses left hardly any room for individual expression.

The care of man-made elegance required an infrastructure that served it, rather than it serving man. Many servants and trade’s people bolstered this ballooning materialism that set the tone for the industrialism of the twentieth century. The delicate balance of nature was ruthlessly pillaged and destroyed as its resources were used to feed the mounting urgency for elegance.

The work of man’s hands though often praiseworthy and exquisite, cannot compensate for a loss of the multi-layered balance, grace and elegant expression of nature. In fact, great art that feeds the soul and inspires the mind is that which for brief, captured moments lifts the veil from the face of the physical; exposing the indwelling divinity that animates all life. It is that which is commonly found in what might be called the lowliest “weed” in a forgotten corner of our garden.

Enjoying with gratitude the comforts and elegance of our environment is representative of a well-rounded character. When they become more than a means to an end; more than tools that enhance freedom and learning it is time to return to nature - the place of solace and that which mirrors the elegance within our souls.

CookIes for all oCCasIons

Christmas rocks

spice Cookies

Marmalade Drop Cookies

Date squares

German Chocolate Biscuits

Crunchies

Jaylene's special oatmeal and raisin Cookies

a Variety of Meringues


Christmas rocks

1 1/2 cups flour1 teaspoon baking powder1/2 teaspoon baking soda1/2 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon cinnamon1/4 teaspoon cloves1 cup chopped nuts3 cups pitted dates, chopped3 cups raisins, chopped2/3 cup shortening1/2 cup sugar2 eggs

• Mixandsiftdryingredients.• Creamshortening;graduallybeatinsugar,eggs,nutsandfruit.• Stirinflourmixture.• Dropfromteaspoonongreasedbakingsheet,andbakeinmoderateovenabout12minutes.

spice Cookies

1/2 cup syrup1/4 cup sugar1 1/2 Tablespoons butter1 1/2 Tablespoons lard1 Tablespoon milk1/2 teaspoon nutmeg2 cups flour1/2 teaspoon soda1/2 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon cloves ground1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

• Mixdryingredients.• Mixheatedsyrup,shorteningandmilk.• Adddryingredients.• Chill,roll,andbakeinmoderateoven.


Marmalade Drop Cookies

3 cups flour1/2 teaspoon baking soda1/2 teaspoon saltl cup orange marmalade1/2 cup shortening1 cup sugar2 eggs, well beaten

• Mixdryingredients.• Creamshortening,graduallybeatinsugarandegg.• Stirindryingredients,thenmarmalade.• Dropfromteaspoonongreasedbakingsheet.• Bakeinmoderateoven,about13minutes.

Date squares

1 1/4 cups oatmeal1 1/4 cup flour1/2 cup sugar2 eggs, well beaten1 teaspoon ground cinnamon6 ounces butter1/2 teaspoon baking soda1/2 teaspoon salt

• Rubbutterintoflour;addsugar,spicesandsalt.• Makeintoasoftdoughwithbeateneggs(andalittlemilk,ifnecessary).• Rollouttoan1/4inchthicknessandcuttofitasquarepan.• Putadatefillingonthislayerandanotherdoughlayerontop.• Brushoverwithbeateneggandsprinklewithsugar.• Whencold,cutintosquares.


Date filling

1/2 pound stoned dates, finely chopped1/2 cup watergrated rind and juice of 1 orange1/2 cup sugar

• Stewtogethertilldatesaresoft.

German Chocolate Biscuits

2 eggs 1 cup yellow sugar2 ounces chocolate1/4 teaspoon cinnamon1/2 teaspoon saltgrated rind of 1/2 lemon1 1/2 cup almonds, chopped 1 cup flour1 teaspoon baking powder

• Beateggsuntillight.• Addsugargradually,andcontinuethebeating.• Addchocolate,grated.• Sifttheflour,salt,bakingpowderandcinnamonandaddittogetherwithlemonrindandal-

mondstothefirstmixture.• Dropfromtipofspoonontoagreasedpan.Bakeinamoderateoven.

note: 6 Tablespoons cocoa mixed with 1 1/2 Tablespoons melted butter may be substituted for the 2 ounces chocolate.

enjoying cookies for tea.


Crunchies

1/2 cup butter1/2 cup sugar1 egg, well beaten1 cup flour1 cup dates1/4 cup walnuts1 1/2 cups corn flakes1 Tablespoon milk1 teaspoon baking powder1/8 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon vanilla

• Creambutterandsugar.• Addwellbeatenegg.• Addnutsanddates.• Mixdryingredientsandadd.• Addflakesandmilklastly.• Pressintogreasedbakingsheet.• Bake15to20minutesat400ºF.• Cutintobars.

for an afternoon function at the Palace of Westminster


oatmeal and raisin Cookies

1 3/4 cups oatmeal2 Tablespoons butter1 cup sugar1 egg3/4 cup minced raisins1 1/2 cups flour2 teaspoons baking powder1/2 teaspoon saltl teaspoon ground cinnamon1/2 teaspoon ground cloves1/2 teaspoon allspice1/2 cup milk

• Creambutter.Addsugarandthenegg.Beatwell.• Addraisinsandoatmealandmixwell.• Siftflour,bakingpowder,saltandspicestogether.Siftontoeggmixturealternatelywithmilk.• Rolloutlightlyonaslightlyflouredboard.• Cutandbakeinamoderateover15to20minutes.

at a splendid Druid feast with a large outdoor reception. Delicacies such as those given here spilled across the table from large baskets with edible flowers.


a Variety of Meringues

egg whites and sugar are the only essential ingredients required for the making of meringues. Cream and other ingredients are used for the filling and for finishing off. The meringues can be very neatly shaped by using 2 tablespoons, and fancy shapes can be obtained by squeezing the mixture through tubes. The meringue mixture must be beaten very thoroughly and must be baked in a very cool oven. The success of meringues depends chiefly upon this.

4 egg whites1 cup castor or other sugarpinch of salt1/2 teaspoon vanilla or 1/2 Tablespoon lemon juice

• Addthesugartotheeggwhitesandbeatuntilstiff.• Addhalfthesugargraduallyandbeatcontinuouslyuntilthemixtureretainsitsshape.Add

theessenceandtheremainingsugarandbeatuntilthemixtureisstiffenoughnottoloseshapewhenmoulded.

• Shapeasdesiredonunwaxedpaperonaboardorbakingsheet.Aboardpreventsthemeringuesfrombecomingeasilyscorched,butcareshouldbetakenthatthewooddoesnotimpartanytaint.

• Bakeinaverycoolovenuntilthemeringuesaredry.• Removecarefullyfromthepaper.Shouldthemeringuesstick,thepapermaybemoistenedon

theoutside.• Fillandpresstogetherinpairswithsweetened,flavoredcastorsugar.

The folloWInG are InTeresTInG VarIaTIons:

ICe CreaM MerInGues:Fill meringues with any kind of ice cream, press together in pairs and serve immediately.

CherrY CreaM MerInGues:Chop crystallized cherries and mix with whipped cream. Fill meringues with this mixture, press together in

pairs and serve immediately.

ChoColaTe MerInGues:Mix 1 Tablespoon cocoa with 2 Tablespoons of the castor sugar given in the recipe; fold this into the meringue

mixture as soon as it has been beaten sufficiently.

CoConuT MerInGues:Fold in 1/2 cup desiccated coconut.

alMonD MerInGues:1 to 2 ounces finely chopped almonds may be folded into the meringue mixture.

Coffee MerInGues:Add 1 teaspoon coffee essence to sweetened whipped cream. Use this for filling and pressing the

meringues together.note: Meringues may be tinted delicately. This is done by adding 1 to 2 drops of coloring.


a hoMe for The hearTThrough the years I have given a considerable amount of thought to the concept of

feeling at home during life on Earth. A dear friend bought me a Christmas ornament of a silver recreational vehicle; a trailer pulled behind a car. On it was written: Home is where you hook up.

I spend a lot of time in airplanes, airports and hotels. The inelegance of this man-made reality is at strong variance with the grace and splendor of the human soul; it chafes like an ill-fitting shoe until either a callous builds up, or the pain of it, makes this life-style impossible to sustain.

To become calloused to the discomfort found in the alienation from the harmonious co-existence with the natural world, is to become hardened and insensitive to what feeds the soul as well. The poetry and beauty of life goes unnoticed. We pass heedlessly by the small acts of heroism of human life uninspired – the praises of the worthy things of life unsung.

A family dwelling is not necessarily a home. In many residences blaring televisions and constant cell-phone interruptions fill the vacuous gaps in personal interactions and mask the lack of knowledge about what constitutes deep, meaningful living. The core relationship with the self suffers and successful aloneness becomes impossible.

I adopted my beautiful little Plains Cree Native American daughter when she was nine months old. Recently, at nine years old, she had to leave the small private school she had been attending and transition to a large public school.

As a single working mother, my success at parenting her has not always been apparent to me until now. She spends her school recesses alone, not yet having gathered a peer group for herself. Happy with her own company, examining trails of ants on the playground or swinging with her hair blowing in the wind. Somehow the proper value systems have been instilled. She has accomplished what most adults have not – being at home with herself. She has found the home that can never be taken away.

a VarIeTY of sWeeTs To GIVeas eleGanT GIfTs

easy to Make Chocolate fudge

My sister’s Vanilla opera fudge

Pimm’s nougat

Waiting to snorkle in Belize, Central america


Chocolate fudge

2 cups sugar1/2 cup milk1/2 cup cocoa2 Tablespoon golden syrup1 cup walnuts or mixed nuts and fruits1 teaspoon vanilla2 Tablespoons butter

• Mixsugar,milk,cocoaandsyrup.• Stiruntilsugarisdissolved.• Boiluntilasoftballcanbeformedwhentestedinwater(238ºF.atsealevel).• Removeandaddbutterbutdonotstir.• Whenpartlycooled,beatuntilthickandcreamy.Addvanillaandnuts.• Pourintobutteredpan.Cutintosquares.

My sister’s Vanilla opera fudge

I remember the enticing aroma of fudge boiling, when my sister decided to produce this delightful confec-tionery. I would sit in the corner of the large kitchen in my little rocking chair and wait with abated breath for the finished product to be triumphantly produced. I was never disappointed!

2 cups sugar1 cup cream or b cups milk2 Tablespoons butter1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar1/2 teaspoon vanilla

• Putsugarandcreamormilkintosaucepan.Stiruntilsugarisdissolved.• Addcreamoftartar.Boil,stirringcarefullyifcreamisused,to238ºF.atsealevel.Oruntilmix-

tureformsasoftballincoldwater.• Pourontoabutteredmarbleslab,trayorplatter.Ifmilkisusedinsteadofcream,thebutteris

addednowontopofthemixturebutnotstirred.• Whencool,workwithaspatulaorbutterpaddleuntilcreamy.• Coverwithadampclothfor1/2hour.• Addvanilla,workingitinwellwiththehands.• Pressintosmallboxortin,6inchesby4inches,linedwithwhite,butteredpaper..• Letitstandtoharden.• Removepaper,sliceandcutintosquares.

note: other flavours may be added and colors used to correspond. sometimes this fudge is divided into several portions, each flavoured and colored differently, pressed into a box in thin layers, and then cut when set.


Pimm’s nougat

I simply love the cozy 15th century cottage that is home to me when in Berkshire. Pimm’s Cottage with its thick walls stands firm against winter storms and offers a cool retreat in summer. Many happy hours in front of the hearth or teas under the willow tree have refined recipes like these.

2 cups sugar1/2 cup honey, glucose or golden syrup1 cup water4 egg whites1 teaspoon vanilla1 1/2 cups chopped nuts1/2 cup glace cherries

• Mixhalfthesugar,waterandsyrup.Stiruntildissolvedanddolikewisewiththeotherhalf.• Cookthefirstmixturetotheverystiffballstage(246ºto250ºF.atsealevel).• Beateggwhitesuntilstiff,butnotdry.• Addthehotsyrupslowly,beatingcontinuously.• Whilebeating,cooktheremaininghalfoftheingredientstothestiffballstage.• Removeandaddtothefirstmixture,beatingwhileadding.• Whencool,addvanilla,nutsandcherries.• Pourintobutteredpansorpanslinedwithricepaper.• Smooththeuppersurface,coverwithricepaperifdesired,andallowtostandovernight

beforecutting.• Cutandwrapinwaxedpaper.

Pimm's cottage, my 15th century Berkshire home.


"The ParTY" aT CasTleMarTYrIt was during one of my earliest visit to Castlemartyr town that I was introduced to

an elderly resident who claimed to remember well the time when my grandfather lived there. During his reminiscences he made more than one reference to “the party”, although admitting that it was many years before his time. Being at a loss to know to what party he referred, I asked him what this event was. He was evidently appalled that I, as a member of the family, should not know to what he referred, especially as it was still a legend amongst the residents of the town. He then proceeded to repair my lamentable ignorance as follows:

It was long ago (the date he could not quantify but was most probably in the early 19th century) that the then Earl of Shannon and another Noble Lord were attending a dinner when the latter observed in conversation that in his garden in England he had by far “the widest bridge over a river in the whole Kingdom”. The Earl of Shannon protested that at Castlemartyr he had in his garden a bridge so wide that “all of King George’s army could march in line abreast with room to spare”. Immediately it was inevitable that a wager should be struck as to the relative merits of width of the two bridges. From the sound of it the dinner could well have taken place at White’s club. Therefore, a suitable day was arranged for a party to visit Castlemartyr to check the veracity of the claim regarding its bridge to decide the bet; the other bridge evidently being well known to those present.

In laying out the vast landscaped gardens then popular at that time, the Earl of Shannon had been disenchanted with a small river which flowed through his garden in what he considered was an inappropriate course. He therefore had the river diverted to a more suitable route which involved taking it by means of a culvert underground for a distance of the better part of a mile. The Earl claimed that, as the river flowed in at one end and out the other also that one could walk across the top, the result therefore must be a bridge. This was grudgingly conceded but the objection was raised that was it really the same river coming out as that which flowed in so far away?

At Castlemartyr and after, no doubt, a suitable repast such as might have been compiled from recipes in this book and fortified by many bottles of choice vintages, it was decided to settle the question by re-corking some of the empty bottles and each member of the party would seal one with his personal signet. This was accordingly done and the party repaired to the upper end of the culvert where they threw their bottles into the river. The party then took horse and made for the lower end to wait until all of their bottles emerged, which they did.

Thus the wager was won and however many golden guineas were at stake were devoted to a marathon party for all the inhabitants of Castlemartyr, leaving an indelible memory most probably of the whole town being dead drunk for the better part of a week. This memory has lasted as a legend amongst their descendants for over a century.

The 9th earl of shannon

The rt. hon. earl of shannon during the years of World War II.


Preparing for a press conference at the Dorchester hotel.


The BlessInGs of aBunDanCeThe Infinite did not produce just one star, or one grain of sand, nor one field flower or

seed from a dandelion. Life teems with abundance. Glistening shoals of fish move like treasure through the ocean’s depths. Thousands of birds fly like white clouds across the continents on their way to the sun. And every spring exuberant fields of flowers renew their annual display of color.

Perhaps this is a good enough excuse for the extravagant abundance of my nature. I surround myself with plentiful supplies, a multitude of things that I cherish and layers of cozy comforts to stand between those who are welcomed into my home and the inhospitality of life.

When I make preserves, I make enough for a small army. When I write poetry, I write all night long. I live fully and exuberantly, with all the conviction of my being! The sluices of my heart know only one position – open. It is not always acceptable for those who prefer to live in the half-light; the curtains of their soul slightly closed. But I’ve found my excuse: I’m suffused with nature’s song of bounty.

at hrh Prince edward's Benefit Ball.

ChuTneYs, JaMs anD ConserVes

Pineapple, rhubarb and orange Conserve

Prince Michael obelensky’sGooseberry and Pineapple Conserve

Quince honey

Castle Martyr Plum Conserve

Pineapple-rhubarb Jam

fresh Pear Chutney


Pineapple, rhubarb and orange Conserve

3 pints pineapple3 pints rhubarb (cut into pieces)2 oranges2 1/2 quarts sugar (10 cups)

• Pourthesugaroverthecut-uppineappleandrhubarb.Leaveovernight.• Cutthepeeloftheorangefine,andleaveinwaterovernight.Boiluntilsoftandaddtotheother

fruit.• Boiluntilthefruitistransparentandthemixtureisthick.

Prince Michael obelensky’s Gooseberry and Pineapple Conserve

I remember the late Prince Michael obelensky each time I use my beautiful royal Doulton china set he has gifted me, a perfect setting for a perfect meal.

4 quarts gooseberries1 large pineapple1 1/4 cups sugar to each 2 cups fruit

• Removethestemsandcalyxofthegooseberries;parethepineapplesandremovetheeyes,thenchoporgratetheflesh.

• Cookthegooseberriesandpineappleinabout11/2cupsofwaterfor15minutes;thenaddthesugar,andcookuntilthick,stirringfrequently.

• Strawberriesmayreplacethegooseberries,butnowatershouldbeusedinthiscase.

Quince honey

• Peelandgrate5largequinces(removethehardportion).• Takelpoundofsugarforevery1poundoffruitand1cupofwaterforevery21/2poundsofsugar.• Makeasyrup,addthegratedquinces,andboilforabout20minutes.Themixtureshouldhave

thecolorandconsistencyofhoney.


Castle Martyr Plum Conserve

7 cups sliced unpeeled blue plums (about 3 pounds)4 cups sugar3 1/2 cups raisins1 lemon, quartered and thinly sliced1 orange, quartered and thinly slicedl cup coarsely chopped walnuts

• Inlargekettlestirtogetheralltheingredientsexceptforthewalnuts.• Heattoaboilstirringfrequently.• Boilgently20to25minutesoruntilmixturethickensslightly.• Stirinwalnuts.

Pineapple-rhubarb jam

1 pineapple1 orange7 1/2 cups cut rhubarb7 1/2 cups sugar

• Removetopfrompineappleandcutintowedges.Cutrindandeyesfromwedges.Removecore.• Cutunpeeledorangeandlemonintoquartersdiscardingseeds.• Grindpineapple,orangeandlemoninfoodchopperusingmediumblade.• Combinerhubarbfruitandsugar.• Coverandrefrigerate5hours.• Pourfruitmixtureintolargekettle;heattoboiling.Stirringfrequently,boilovermediumheat25

minutesoruntiljamthickens.• Filljars,coolandstore.


fresh Pear Chutney

10 cups sliced, pared pears (about 5 pounds)1/4 cup finely chopped green peppers1 1/2 cups raisins4 cups sugar1 cup chopped crystallized ginger3 cups vinegar1/2 teaspoon salt1/2 teaspoon whole cloves1/2 teaspoon whole allspice3 cinnamon sticks

• Inlargekettle,stirtogetherpears,greenpepper,raisins,sugar,ginger,vinegarandsalt.• Tiecloves,allspiceandcinnamonsticksindoublethicknesssquaresofcheesecloth.• Placeinkettleandheattoboiling,stirringfrequently.• Reduceheat.Simmer11/2to2hoursoruntilchutneyisdarkandsyrupy.• Removespicebagandstoreinjars.

The Countess at The house of lords.


The breakfast room.


Morning sunshine in the breakfast room in the oregon Coast home, The united states.


household hints• To clean decanters or water bottles: Fill halfway with equal vol-

umes of water and vinegar and a few pieces of raw potatoes. Shake or stir well.

• Tough chicken: Cover with water and 1 cup vinegar and leave over-night.

• Tough meat: Add 2 teaspoons ground ginger when boiling or stewing.• To keep poultry fresh before cooking: Place a large, peeled onion in-

side and rub lemon juice (rub with half a lemon) into the poultry to keep it soft and white.

• To prevent eggs from cracking when boiling, add 1 teaspoon salt and vinegar to the water. It is always recommended to place eggs in cold water and then bring to boil.

• To make it easier to cream butter, first rinse the bowl with hot water and dry thoroughly.

• Dry cheese in an oven that is barely on, before grating. Not only will it go so much further, but the recipe it is used in will yield a much lighter result. Macaroni is often a failure due to over soft cheese.

• When chocolate is to be melted either in the microwave or double boiler, the least messy way is to melt it wrapped in wax paper.

• To clean windows without streaks, use newspaper dampened with white vinegar. Then wipe with dry newspaper.

• To loosen an obstinate lid, place a hot iron on the lid for about 10 seconds.

• To restore the colors of a carpet, grate 1 or 2 potatoes, pour hot water over and set aside for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Pour off the water and use it to brush the carpet with.

• Tights or stockings can be quickly dried by wrapping them around a hot water bottle.

• save unused hotel soaps for preventing bathroom mirrors from steaming up. Rub the previously unused cake of soap over the mirror, then rub well with a dry, soft cloth.

• Beetroot stains can be removed from a tablecloth by placing a shallow dish of cold water under the stain and a thick slice of white bread on top. The bread will absorb the color.


MeasurementsEnglish American

1fluidounce 2tablespoonsor1/8cup4fluidounces ½cup5fluidounces ½cupplus2tablespoons8fluidounces 1cup10fluidounces 1pint

1pint 2½cups2pints 5cups

Glossary of english and american TermsEnglish American

ButterMuslin CheeseclothBiscuit CookieorSconeChips FrenchFriedPotatoes

Cornflour CornstarchCourgettes Zucchini

DoubleCream WhippingCreamFryingPan Skillet

Grill BroilIcing-Sugar Confectioner’sSugarKetchup CatsupMinced GroundorFinelyChoppedMince Hamburger

PlainFlour CakeFlourSelf-RaisingFlour AllPurposeFlourSingleCream CoffeeCream

Stock BrothStreakyBacon SideBacon

Tin Pan


SoupsAndalusianGaspachoSoup.................................................. 90BarleyBroth(PotageCrèmed’Orge)...................................110CornChowder........................................................................112CreamSoups...........................................................................113CucumberSoup...................................................................... 31FishSoupwithPasta.............................................................. 66JerusalemArtichokeSoup..................................................... 13PeaSoupwithCroutons(PureedePoisauxCroutons)..111PotatoandWatercressSoup.................................................. 78RussianBorschSoup.............................................................. 41

MoussesHam.......................................................................................... 22LiverPateCake......................................................................101SmokedSalmon...................................................................... 36Tomato.....................................................................................102

EggsEggsDeLuxe......................................................................... 134FlemishEggs............................................................................ 48GussingEggs..........................................................................101HamandEggs......................................................................... 28OeufsenCocotteamaFacon................................................ 66OeufsMurette......................................................................... 84VegetableMouldwithEggs(OeufsalaPiemontaise).... 135

Fish and ShellfishBakedStuffedFish................................................................ 120CrabCakes..............................................................................117FilletofSoleBonneFemme..................................................118GambasallaPlancha(Prawns)............................................. 57LobsterThermidor.................................................................116LotteThermidor...................................................................... 52PaellaalaValenciana(PrawnsandChicken).................... 91PrawnorCrayfishCurry(Crevetteal’IndiennealaCarleton)....................................................................118SalmonTrout(Salmon).......................................................... 62SalmonTroutFishCakes....................................................... 67ScallopsBantryBay.................................................................10ScampiallaPlancha(Prawns).............................................. 69

SaladsAvocadoSalad......................................................................... 46AvocadoandVegetableSalad..............................................146ChickenSalad(SaladedeVolaille)......................................145GreenSalad.............................................................................. 63PotatoSalad(SaladedePommesdeTerre)........................144TomatoandEggSalad(SaladeauxOeufsetTomates)... 150TongueinAspic.....................................................................147TunaFishSalad....................................................................... 27

Assorted EntreesAsparaguswithParmesan...................................................... 9CrackerBreadwithHungarianCheese.............................. 95ParmaHamwithMelon.........................................................18QueenAnne’sMushrooms....................................................61StuffedVineLeafDolmas......................................................74

GamePheasant,roasted‘Ormerod..................................................14PheasantRisotto......................................................................18Quail,roastedwithWhiteGrapes....................................... 23Venison,roastedandlarded................................................. 85Venison‘Biltong’................................................................... 122

PoultryAustralianCreamedChicken(CrèmedeVolaille).......... 130Chicken,CircassianwithWalnuts....................................... 53ChickenALaKing............................................................... 130ChickenStuffedTomatoes(SaladedeVolailleetTomates).151Duck,roastedwithBlackCherrySauce.............................. 42

MeatBeef Beauceronne.......................................................................103 BeefOlives........................................................................... 37 BeefBiltong........................................................................ 122 HamburgerswithMadeiraSauce.................................... 46 HungarianPorkolt.............................................................. 96 SteaksallaDiavola.............................................................. 32 Bobotee............................................................................... 128Boerwors(BoerSausage)..................................................... 124IndianPilau........................................................................... 129Lamb,IbithencoLeg,roasted............................................... 75Pork,VenetianwithCinnamon............................................ 79PorkChopswithCherrysauce............................................. 46Sosaties(kebabsorskeweredmeat)................................... 123Veal,Escallops‘Hesperides’................................................. 69

VegetablesBeans BroadwithSummerSavoury........................................... 70 French................................................................................... 57Broccoli..................................................................................... 49Carrots,sliced...........................................................................76CarrotsandTurnips............................................................... 67Cauliflower,Polonaise........................................................... 24Cucumber,Yoghourt.............................................................. 55Fennel,Buttered...................................................................... 15Leeks,creamed........................................................................ 33Onions Stuffed(Oignonsfarcis)....................................................140 Roasted................................................................................. 86Peas,Mangetout...................................................................... 19


PotatoesBaked........................................................................................ 46Duchesse.................................................................................. 70Fondant..................................................................................... 25FrenchFried,GameChips..................................................... 28FriedPotatoBalls.................................................................... 38IrishStuffed(PommesdeTerreal’Irlandaise).................140Withmarjoram........................................................................ 86Mashed..................................................................................... 46NewwithMint........................................................................ 63

RiceServiettenKnodel................................................................... 97WithParmesan.........................................................................18VegetableMouldwithEggs................................................ 135VegetableStuffing.................................................................119Zucchini,fried......................................................................... 28

Breads and SandwichesBananaLoaf.......................................................................... 154SoftGingerbread................................................................... 154DateBread.............................................................................. 155Doughnuts............................................................................. 155AmericanPopovers.............................................................. 156SandwichFillings.............................................................. 156-7

DessertsApricots,AlZahra’s.................................................................76AutumnMousse......................................................................16BananasCaramelled.......................................................................... 28

Trinidad................................................................................ 81 CrepeswithMarmaladeandGrandMarnier................ 64GreekHoneySweet................................................................ 44PineappleBavarianCream...................................................161PlumPudding........................................................................163RicottaBarack.......................................................................... 86

FruitCompoteof............................................................................... 39Fresh.......................................................................................... 34Salad,Sicilian......................................................................... 104Sorbet,orange.......................................................................... 55

SouffléCastleMartyr'sSpinach........................................................141ColdwithGrandMarnier..................................................... 57VanillaandVariations..........................................................162SupremedeChocolate............................................................11Syllabub,Creole(withrum).................................................. 25TortadelaSierraMorena...................................................... 98VanillaCustardIceCream...................................................160

Dessert Sauces and IcingsBrandySauce........................................................................... 42ButterIcing.............................................................................167ChocolateSauce.....................................................................160

HotChocolateSauce............................................................... 19LemonSauce...........................................................................162MarshmallowSauce..............................................................161

Cakes and PiesAngelorSilverSpongeCake...............................................167BernsteinWalnut.................................................................... 72ChristmasCake......................................................................166Continental............................................................................ 104LemonPie\ShortPieCrust...................................................168

CookiesChristmasRocks................................................................... 172Crunchies................................................................................175DateSquares...........................................................................173

DateFilling........................................................................174GermanChocolateBiscuits..................................................174MarmaladeDropCookies....................................................173Meringues.............................................................................. 177OatmealandRaisinCookies...............................................176SpiceCookies......................................................................... 172Sweets(Candy)

ChocolateFudge.............................................................. 180VanillaOperaFudge....................................................... 180Nougat................................................................................181

CheeseCheeseSouffléandVariation............................................. 135StuffedPepperswithCheese................................................ 92

Fruit PunchesMixedFruitPunch(25servings).........................................169RhubarbPunch......................................................................169

SaucesAll-I-oli(Ajiaceite)................................................................... 27BlackCherrySauce................................................................. 42Espagnol................................................................................... 43HorseradishandCucumber.................................................. 63Madeira.................................................................................... 46Maitred’HotelSauce.............................................................117Tomato.................................................................................... 136N.B.Theothersaucesmentionedareintegralpartsofthedishesmentioned.

Dressings, Jams, ConservesBoiledDressing..................................................................... 150GermanDressing...................................................................145MayonnaiseDressing...........................................................146Chutneys,JamsandConserves

FreshPearChutney......................................................... 188GooseberryandPineappleConserve...........................186Pineapple-RhubarbJam..................................................187Pineapple,RhubarbandOrangeConserve.................186PlumConserve.................................................................187QuinceHoney...................................................................186

The rt. hon. earl of shannon during the

years of World War II.

Cooking With Class -- Almine

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