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Chapter 18

Braiding and Braid Extensions

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

“Minds are like parachutes. They only function when open.”

– Thomas Dewar

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Objectives

• Explain how to prepare the hair for braiding.

• Demonstrate the procedure for cornrowing.

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Client Consultation

• Focus on client expectations.

• Build trust and confidence.

• Follow standard consultation guidelines.

• Conduct in quiet spot.

• Be warm, be friendly, and listen.

• Complete client record card.

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Natural Hairstyling

• Natural hairstyling originated in Africa.

• Some procedures take many hours to complete and last from six weeks to three months.

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Natural or Virgin Hair

• No chemicals or dyes

• Natural or coil pattern of hair not alerted

• Never exposed to thermal styling tools, according to some

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Natural Hairstyling

• Braiding and extensions

• Twisting: overlapping two strands to form a candy-cane effect

• Weaving: intertwining a weft of faux hair with natural hair

• Wrapping

• Dreadlocks

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Hair Analysis

• Texture– Diameter of hair; feel; wave pattern

• Density

• Hair condition

• Length

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Tools for Braiding

• Boar-bristle brush• Square paddle brush• Vent brush• Wide-tooth comb• Tail comb• Double-tooth comb• Finishing comb• Cutting comb• Pick with rounded teeth

• Blow-dryer with pick nozzle• Diffuser• 5-inch scissors• Long clips• Butterfly and small clips• Hood dryer• Small rubber bands or

string

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Tools for Braiding (continued)

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Implements and Materials

• Extension fibers

• Hackle

• Drawing board

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Fibers

• Human hair: most imported from Asia• Kanekalon: excellent quality• Nylon or rayon: less expensive; may cut or break natural

hair

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• Yarn: made of cotton or nylon blend

• Lin: wool fiber from Africa

• Yak: from Tibetan or Asian ox

Fibers (continued)

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Wet or Dry Hair

• Dry is best for braiding.

• Allow for shrinkage when braiding wet.

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Straight Hair

• Braid dry.• Let hair fall without tension.• Shampoo first.• Towel-blot without rubbing.• Apply leave-in conditioner.• Detangle from ends to scalp.• Blow-dry hair.• Use pomade, gel, or lotion to hold.

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Blow-Drying Benefits

• Dries hair quickly

• Softens hair

• Loosens and elongates wave pattern

• Aids manipulation process

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Preparation for Braiding

• Procedure

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Tree Braids

• Hair is braided with an extension.

• Finished look shows mostly faux hair.

• Process takes about four hours.

• Two methods– Tying Individual strands in place about an inch from scalp

area

– Adding long pieces of hair to cornrows

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Dreadlocks

• Separate networks of curly, textured hair that have been intertwined and meshed together

• Performed without chemicals in several slow phases

• Process can take from six to twelve months

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Ways to Cultivate Locks

• Double twisting

• Wrapping with cord

• Coiling

• Palm rolling

• Braiding

• Not combing or brushing

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Three Lock Methods

• Comb technique

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• Palm roll• Braids or extensions

Three Lock Methods (continued)

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Developmental Phases of Locks

• Phase 1: Hair is soft and coiled in spirals.

• Phase 2: Hair begins to interlace and mesh.

• Phase 3: A bulb can be felt at end of lock.

• Phase 4: Hair begins to regain length.

• Phase 5: Locks are closed at ends, are dense and dull, and do not reflect light.

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Procedures

• Visible Braid Procedure

• Rope Braid Procedure

• Fishtail Braid Procedure

• Invisible Braid Procedure

• Single Braids without Extensions

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Procedures (continued)

• Single Braids with Extensions

• Cornrows Procedure

• Cornrows with Extensions

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Summary and Review

• What is the most effective way to prepare hair for braiding?

• What are the steps in creating basic corn rows?

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You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.

Congratulations!